INDIAN WOOL INDUSTRY STATISTICS AND FIFNISHING OF WOOL CARPETS YARNS
R.B.CHAVANDEPARTMENT OF TEXTILE TECHNOLOGY
INDIAN INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY
HASZ-KHAS, NEW DELHI
WOOL INDUSTRY IN INDIA
SMALL IN SIZEWIDELY SCATTEREDLOCATED IN STATES OF PUNJAB, HARYANA, RAJASTHAN, U.P., MAHARASHTRA AND GUJARAT 40% OF THE WOOLLEN UNITS ARE LOCATED IN PUNJAB, 27% IN HARYANA, 10% IN RAJASTHAN, 23% THE REST OF THE STATES A FEW OF THE LARGER UNITS ARE LOCATED IN MAHARASHTRA, PUNJAB, U.P., GUJARAT AND WEST BENGAL.
WOOL PRODUCTION IN INDIA
45 MILLION kg ESTIMATE
15-16 MILLION kg SUITABLE FOR CARPER
REST COARSE, INFERIOR, BLACK WOOL UNSUITABLE FOR USE IN CARPET MAKING.
NO PRODUCTION OF FAPPAREL WOOL
50-60 MIILION kg IMPORT
NEW ZEALAND CARPET WOOL
AUSTRALIA APPAREL WOOL
IMPORT OF WOOLEN RAGS FOR SHODDY WOOL
SHODDY WOOL USE
BLANKETS
BLAZERS
RECYCLED WOOL BLENDED FABRIC
INDIAN WOOL INDUSTRY PROFILE
TOTAL No. OF REGISTERED UNITS 675
TOTAL No. OF PERSONS EMPLOYED 12 LAKH
TOTAL IMPORT OF WOOL Rs.700 cr.
TOTAL EXPORTS 1999-2000 (EXCLUDING
HAND MADE CARPETS, RUGS, DURRIES ETC.) Rs.2110 Cr.
TOTAL IMPORT OF RAW WOOL (1999-2000) 66 m kg
TOTAL IMPORT OF WOOLLEN
AND COTTON RAGS ETC. (1999-2000) 71.6 m kg
WOOLEN INDUSTRY SECTORS
ORGANISED SECTOR:
I) COMPOSITE MILLS
II) COMBING UNITS.
III) WORSTED AND NON-WORSTED SPINNING UNITS.
IV) MACHINE MADE CARPET MANUFACTURING UNITS.
B) DECENTRALISED SECTOR:
I) HOSIERY AND KNITTING
II) POWERLOOM
III) HAND KNOTTED CARPETS, DRUGGETS AND NAMDAHS
IV) INDEPENDENT DYEING PROCESSING HOUSES.
INSTALLED CAPACITY(1999-2000)
WOOL COMBING 29.28 m. kg.
SYNTHETIC FIBRE COMBING 3.57 m. kg.
WORSTED SPINDLES 5.88 Lakh Nos. NON-WORSTED SPINDLES 4.25 Lakh Nos.
POWERLOOM (approx. including 7228 Nos. decentralized sector)
MACHINE MADE CARPET SECTOR 8.10 lac sq. mt. 8.27 m.kg.
STATE WISE WOOL PRODUCTION mkg (1996-1997)Andhra Pradesh 1.88Arunachal Pradesh 0.06Bihar 1.23Gujarat 2.40Haryana 1.86 Himachal Pradesh 1.60 Jammu & Kashmir 5.06 Karnataka 5.00Madhya Pradesh 0.78 Maharashtra 1.56 Punjab 1.40 Rajasthan 18.00 Sikkim 0.04 Tamil Nadu 0.73 Uttar Pradesh 2.03 West Bengal 0.63 Total 44.26
INDIAN CARPETS
RENOWNED THE WORLD OVER
THEIR EXQUISITE DESIGNS,
SUBTLE ELEGANCE,
ATTRACTIVE COLORS
WORKMANSHIP.
SUBSTANTIAL CARPET EXPORTS PROMINENT IN THE INTERNATIONAL CARPET MAP.
NATURAL COLOURS
'MADDER' ROOT PROVIDES THE WHOLE RANGE OF PINKS AND REDS
GREEN FROM THE 'GRASS'
BROWN FROM THE 'KIKER' TREE.
BLUE FROM INDIGO
BLACK FROM HARADA
ALL TYPES OF NATURAL DYES ARE USED.
MATERIAL
WOOL HAS BEEN THE BASIC MATERIAL,
SILK IS ALSO COMMONLY USED ,
TO A LESSER DEGREE COTTON AND STAPLE/SYNTHETIC MATERIALS.
DESIGNINGTHE USUAL PROCEDURE ADOPTED BY THE WEAVER IS TO DRAW HIS DESIGNS AND TRANSFER THEM TO GRAPH PAPER ON WHICH EACH SQUARE REPRESENTS A SINGLE KNOT.
THEN THE PAPER IS DIVIDED INTO VARYING PARTS DEPENDING ON WHETHER THE PATTERN IS INTENDED FOR THE CENTER MEDALLION OR FOR A PART OF A REPEATED PATTERN.
THESE SHEETS OF PAPER ARE THEN PASSED ON TO THE KNOTTING WORKSHOP.
THE OTHER MANNER FOLLOWED BY THE WEAVERS OF KASHMIR AND AMRITSAR IS THE 'TALIM',
WHERE A CODED COLOR CHART INDICATES THE NUMBER OF KNOTS TO BE WOVEN IN THEIR RESPECTIVE COLORS.
THE MASTER-WEAVER READS ALOUD FROM IT AND THE WEAVERS FOLLOWS HIS DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY..
WEAVING
ONE OF THE MOST COMMONLY USED LOOM IN INDIA IS THE ROLLER-BEAM LOOM.
THE SIMPLEST OF THESE LOOMS HAS TWO HORIZONTAL WOODEN BEANS BETWEEN WHICH THE WRAP THREADS ARE STRETCHED,
THE ONE BEAM IN FRONT OF THE WEAVER, THE OTHER IS BEHIND THE FIRST.
AS THE KNOTTING PROCEEDS,
THE CARPET IS ROLLED TO THE BACK OF THE LOOM.
THE WEAVER BEGINS BY WEAVING A SELVEDGE AND SEVERAL SHOOTS OF WEFT ARE PASSED TO FORM A NARROW BAND TO SECURE THE KNOTS AT THE END OF THE CARPET.
THE INDIAN CARPET WEAVER NORMALLY USES THE ASYMMETRICAL OR PERSIAN KNOT .
FINISHING
WASHING OF A CARPET IS DONE TO BRING SHEEN AND LUSTER.
BEFORE WASHING, THE CARPET GOES THROUGH THE STAGE OF BURNING THE BACK OF THE CARPET,
RUBBING WITH WIRED BRUSH ('BERAI') TO MAKE IT EVEN.
WASHING IS DONE WITH WATER MIXED WITH SOAP, BLEACHING POWDER AND OTHER CHEMICALS.
AFTER WASHING, THE CARPET IS SUN-DRIED AND THEN SENT FOR CLIPPING.
CARPET INDUSTRYTHE CARPET PRODUCING CENTERS IN INDIA ARE UTTAR PRADESH, JAMMU & KASHMIR, RAJASTHAN, PUNJAB, HARYANA, MADHYA PRADESH, BIHAR , HIMACHAL PRADESH, WEST BENGAL, ANDHRA PRADESH, KARNATAKA PONDICHERRY. EMPLOYEES AROUND 2.5 MILLION PEOPLE IN RURAL AREAS OF WHERE OTHER EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIES ARE VERY REMOTE. CHILD LABOUR IS PROHIBITED BY LAW UNDER THE CHILD LABOUR PROHIBITION ACT.
TYPES OF INDIAN CARPETS
HAND-KNOTTED WOOLEN CARPETS
TUFTED WOOLEN
HANDMADE WOOLEN DHURRIES
PURE SILK CARPETS
STAPLE/SYNTHETIC CARPETS
CHAIN-STITCH RUGS
FINISHING OF WOOL CARPET YARN
VALUE ADDITION THROUGH
IMPROVEMENT IN AESTHETICS
IMPROVEMENT IN FUNTIONAL PROPERTIES
BROAD CLASSIFICATION
PHYSICAL FINISHING
OPTICAL FINISHING
BRUSHING AND NAPPING
SOFTENING
SHEARING
COMPACTING (CALENDERING)
FINISHING OF WOOL CARPET YARN
VALUE ADDITION THROUGH
IMPROVEMENT IN AESTHETICS
IMPROVEMENT IN FUNTIONAL PROPERTIES
BROAD CLASSIFICATION
PHYSICAL FINISHING
OPTICAL FINISHING
BRUSHING AND NAPPING
SOFTENING
SHEARING
COMPACTING (CALENDERING)
CHMICAL FINISHING
FINISHES AFECTING AESTHETICS, COMFORT AND SERVICESOPTICAL FINISHES
HYDROPHILIC AND SOIL RELEASE FINISHES
SOFT AND STIFF FINISHES
WEIGHTING AGENTS
SHRINK RESISTANT FINISHES
CREASE RESISTANCE FINISHES
PROTECTIVE FINISHES
PHOTOPROTECTIVE AGENTS AND ANTIOXIDANTS
OIL AND WTER REPELLANTS
ANTISTATIC AGENTS
ANTIBACTERIAL AND INSECT RESISTANT FINISHES
FLAME RETARDANTS
FINISHING OF WOOL CARPET YARNS
YARN SCOURINGYARN SCOURING IS ESSENTIAL FOR WOOL CARPETSREMOVE FIBRE PROCESSING AIDS (LUBRICANTS) APPLIED TO ASSIST CARDING AND SPINNINGREMOVE SOIL AND DIRT DEPOSITED ON THE YARNREMOVE RESIDUAL WOOL GREASEREDUCE THE RESIDUAL IMPURITIES TO 1% IMPROPER SCOURING MAKE CARPETS PRONE TO RAPID AND EXCESSICE SOILING DURING USEPROCESS DETERGENT ALONG ITH MILD ALKALI AMMONIA
SCOURING PROCESSYARN IN HANK FORM
SCOURING AGENT: DETERGENT AND MILD ALKALI LIKE AMMONIA
600C, 30-45 MIN.
WASH, NETRALIZE, WASH.
DRY
SOLVENT SCOURING
SHORT TREAMENT WITH PERCHLOROETHYLENE IN DRY CLEANING MACHINE
USEFUL FOR YARNS SENSITIVE TO AQUEOUS SCOURING
SETTING OF CARPET YARNS
NECESSARY TO SET THE TWIST OF CARPET YARNS
CARPET MAINTAINS TEXTURE AND TUFT DEFINITION AND APPEARANCE
DURING PROCESSING
DURING USE.
AUTOCLAVE SETTING
SETTING CYCLE OF YARN IN HANK FORM
VACUUM TO MAXIMUM
STEAM AT 105/1100C FOR 2 MIN. AIR REMOVAL
VACUUM TO MAXIMUM
STEAM AT 105/1100C FOR 10 MIN. SETTING
VACUUM STEAM REMOVAL
EFFECT OF TEMPERATURE
TEMP. 105/110C IS SATISFACTORYIN CASE OF YELLOWING REDUCE TEMP TO 1020C OR EVEN 1000C INCREASE SETTING TIME AT LOWER TEMP.ALTERNATIVELY, FOR IMPROVED SETTING RAISE TEMP. TO 1200C PROVIDED YELLOWING IS NOT EXCESSIVELIGH LEVEL OF SET ACHIEVED AT 1000C FOR LONGER TIMEINCREASE IN YELLOWNESS IS LESS THAN FOR SIMILAR SET SET LEVEL OBTAINED AT HIGH TEMP. IN SHORTER TIME.
EFFECT OF pH
DURING SETTING YARN SHOULD BE NEUTRAL
IF ALKALINE (pH 9),
INCREASE IN THE DEGREE OF SET,
EXCESSIVE YELLOWING
CONSIDERABLE STRENGTH LOSS
EFFECT FO MOISTURE
MOISTURE HAS CONSIDER EFFECT ON SETTING
MOIST AND WET YARN SETS BETTER THAN DRY YARN
YELLOWING OF MOIST YARN IS ALSO LESS
STRENGTH LOSS IS HIGHER BUT DOES NOT AFFECT THE LIFE OF CARPET
UNEVEN MOISTURE CONTENT IN YARN WILL GIVE VARIABLE DEGREE OF SETTING
SETTING IN CONE FORM
AVOIDS HANK CONVERSION AND RE-WINDING
YARN IS NOT FREE TO RELAX
LESS DEGREE OF SET COMPARED TO HANK SETTING
CONES SHOULD BE PERFORATED TO ALLOW STEAM PENETRATION
SETTING IN HANK FORM
COMMON FORM FOR SETTING CARPET YARN
ALL THE YARNS MUST BE EQUALLY FREE TO RELAX AND BULK
CAN BE ENSURED BY SETTING THE HANKS IN TRAY OR
PREBULKING AND RELAXING THE HANKS e>g. SCOURING
CHEMICAL SETTING
IMMERSE THE YARN IN SODIUM BISULPHITE SOLUTIN (1%) AT pH 7, 850C , 2 MINRINSE TWICE 850C , 2 MIN. EACHTO IMPROVE SET, INCREASE SETTING TIME, BISULPHITE CONCENTRATION AND TEMP.LONG DWELL TIMES ARE NOT EASILY ACHIEVED IN SOME MACHINESIWS HAS DEVISED A SETTING PROCESS USING HIGHER CONC. OF BISULPHITE WITH DWELL TIME AS LOW AS 20 SEC.IF DYED YARN IS USED TAKE CARE TO USE DYESTUFFS FAST TO BISULPHITE
WATER SETTING
SET THE BATH WITH ACETIC ACID AT pH 5
ADD WETTING AGENT
ENTER YARN AT 300C
BRING TO BOIL
BOIL FOR 15-20 MIN.
DROP LIQUOR
RINSE
DRY
BOILING FOR LONGER TIME INCREASE SET AT THE EXPENSE OF YELLOWING
ASSESSMENT OF DEGREE OF SET
CUT 10 PIECES OF YARN EACH OF 40 mm LONG
STAPLE TO A PIECE OF FAIRLY STIFF FABRIC
PLACE THE FABRIC INSIDE THE BEAKER FILLED WITH WATER
BOIL FOR 60-90 MIN
REMOVE YARNS
DRY
MEASURE LENGTH AND TPI
INSECT RESIST FINISHWOOL AND OTHER ANIMAL FIBRES ARE PRONE TOATTACK BY CERTAIN INSECT SPECIESIN ALL CASES THE LARVAE NOT THE ADULT INSECTS CAUSE DAMAGE.THE KERATINE DIGESTING INSECTS PREFER TO LIVE AND BREED IN DARK PLACES WHERE THEY ARE MOST LIKELY TO REMAIN UNDISTURBEDTHE RISK IS INCREASED CONSIDERABLY IF THE ARTICLE IS DIRTYTYPICAL SITES OF INSECT INFESTATION OCCUR IN PARTS OF CARPETS UNDER HEAVY PIECES OF FURNITURE WHICH RE CLEANED ONLY SELDOM AND PROVIDE AREAS UNDISTURBED SEMI-DARKNESS WHERE THE INSECTS CAN BREED.
INSECT RESIST ((IR) AGENTS (MOTH PROFFING)
LARGE NUMBER OF MOTH PROOFING AGENTS ARE REPORTED IN LITERATURE
ONLY FEW ARE USED IN INDUSTRY
ORGANOCHLORINE COMPOUNDS
IMPORTANT MOTH PROOFING AGENTS ARE
APPLICATION
EASILY APPLID FROM ACIDIC AQUEOUS SOLUTION AT BOILADSORBED BY WOOL LIKE ACID DYES COMPOUNDS WITH SULPHONIC ACID GROUP ARE WATER SOLUBLEHAVE HIGH AFFINITY TO WOOL POSSESS THE FASTNESS PROPERTIES OF GOOD WOOL DYESRESISTNT TO REPEATED WASHING, LIGHT, DRYCLEANOING, RUBBING etc. ODOURLESS, COLOURLESS MITIN FF AND EULONS ARE EXPENSIVEDIELDRIN LOW COST, LACK WASH FASTNESS
APPLICATION
DURING HANK DYEING
APPLICATION DURING DYEING IS PREFERRED METHOD
TECHNICALLY SIMPLEST
FSTNESS IS BETTER
ADD THE APPROPRIATE QUANTITY (1% oww) TO DYE BATH ALONG WITH THE DYESTUFF AND OTHER AUXILIARIES
PRECAUTIONS
SOME DYEBATH AUXILIARIES MAY RETARD THE EXHAUSTION OF IR AGENTS ONTO WOOL OR MAY REDUCE THEIR EFFECTIVENESS
IR AGENT MAY DECOMPOSE IF DYEING TIME IS PROLONGED
TREATMENT AFTER DYEING WITH CATIONIC AGENT THE CONCENTRATION OF IR AGENT SHOULD BE DOUBLED IN ORDER TO COMPENSATE FOR ANTAGONISTIC EFFECT OF THE CATIONIC AGENT ON THE ANIONIC IR AGENT.
APPLICATION
DURING SCOURING
MANY IR AGENTS MAY BE APPLIED DURING CONTINUOUS SCOURING PROCESS
ADD IR AGENT AND ACID TO THE FINAL BOWL
BOTH LOOSE STOCK AND YARN IN HANK FORM MAY BE TREATED IN THIS WAY.
DURING YARN SETTING
IF YARN IS SET IN BOILING WATER, IR AGENT MAY BE ADDED TO BOILING BATH
MAINTAIN NEUTRAL OR SLIGHT ACID CONDITION
APPLICATION
ON PRINTED CARPETS
CAN BE CARRIED OUT BEFORE OR DURING PRINTING PROCESS
BEFORE PRINTING
TREATMENT DURING RAW WOOL SCOURING, DURING YARN SCOURING OR DURING WATER-SETTING OF YARN IS POSSIBLE
DURING PRINTING
ADDITION OF IR AGENT IN THE PRINT PASTE
WOOLMARK CARPETS
FOR CARPETS WITH WOOLMARK LABLE MOTHPROOFING IS MANDATORY
SHOULD CONTAIN SUFFICIENT IR AENT TO PROTECT CARPET FROM INSECT ATTACK THROUGH THEIR USEFUL LIFE.
IWS WITH AGREEMENT OF ALL MAJOR MANUFACTURERS OF IR AGENTS HAS ISSUED LISTS OF RECOMMENDED APPLICATION LEVEL (RAL’S)FOR WIDELY USED IR AGENTS AND ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION
TOXICITY
ALL CHLORINATED IR AGENTS ARE TOXIC
TO BE USED CAREFULLY
LESS TOXIC ORGANIC IR AGENTS HAVE BEEN DEVELOPED
FLAME RETARDANT TREATMENT
WOOL IS NATURALLY FLAME RETARDANT
ADDITIONAL FLAME RETARDANCY REQUIRED TO PREVENT BURNING DUE TO CIGARETTE BUTS
FLAME RETARDANCY IS IMPARTED USING
HALOGENATED ORGANIC ACIDS
ORGANOPHONATES
COMPLEX INORGANIC SALTS OF ZIRCONIUM, TITANIUM TUNGSTEN etc.
ANTI-SOIL/ANTI-STAIN FINISH
TREATMENT WITH FLUROCARBON BASED PRODUCTS (e.g. TEFLON OR SCOTCHGARD) CAN INCREASE RESISTANCE TO BOTH STAINING AND SOILING
DURABILITY OF SUCH PRODUCTS IS LIMITED
SILCONE TREATMENT INCREASES RESISTANCE TO STAINING TO WATER BASED SPILLS.