ask-re LLP The Property People 2012 | www.ask-re.co.uk
ask-re
About Us Ask-re is one of the UK’s most effec-
tive property consultancies and was
founded years ago by like-minded
hands-on property people. Since
then, the company has provided
business-driven real estate consul-
tancy and service delivery to about
800 unique clients within the UK. We
provide national reach, transferable
skills and local delivery.
We are the standout firm for unlock-
ing the most complex and difficult
real estate problems and converting
problems into benefits, reducing
cash outflows and liabilities, in order
to make financial gains out of ad-
verse situations.
Our unique approach combines stra-
tegic property and business knowl-
edge, all designed to add value and
reduce the cost of commercial
property, occupation and to advise
ownership. We cut cost and create
value.
Our client-facing team is made up of
a combination of property and busi-
ness professionals all focused on de-
livering excellence through creative
and effective advice. These factors
are underpinned by the utmost in-
tegrity and close relationships, as
well as applying embedded special-
ist real estate and negotiation skills.
Our results and our creative skills are
outstanding in our sector, as happy
clients frequently tell us.
We believe in always working cost-
free and leaving no loose ends to
snag the client’s future needs. Our
unique selling point is that ask-re al-
ways makes monetary gains for our
clients and will never be a net cost,
only a net benefit. No other consul-
tancy of similar stature can offer this,
or think and act as effectively and
beneficially.
And we love what we do! More im-
portantly we love what YOU do!
WELCOME
L ondon Fashion Week is an oppor-
tune time to get together with our
many friends, colleagues, advisers
and clients for a chance to catch up
on news, enjoy the collections and
perhaps head down to a few of the
after-show celebrations.
Our focus on clients includes linking
them up where we can, in order to
“give back” and add value by mu-
tuality of interest. Working together,
including both social and business
networking, identifies common
benefits and concerns as well as
latent/creative alliances.
In simple property terms, this can
mean coming together to hold back
the rise in operating costs, such as
business rates and service charges;
to be aware of the greater cost im-
pact of rising rents and dilapidations
at lease-end; and more positively, to
acquire or dispose of trading prem-
ises and properties for investment
where costs and liabilities might be
converted over time to assets.
This is all our stock-in-trade and it
never goes out of fashion!
We encourage business collabora-
tion, bringing specialist designers
and retailers together with online or
web-based business, occasionally
even sharing premises to increase
strength in co-operation and the
benefit of shared costs. And of
course to entertain and meet in the
restaurants, clubs and coffee bars in
Mayfair, especially those of our cli-
ents!
We hope you like this snapshot of
ask-re in Mayfair and of the work we
do for some of our clients, for exam-
ple, Byoutifulyou.com which we
have featured here. London Fashion
Week has been and gone we now
make the most of the Summer’s end
and the arrival of the new season’s
inspirational Autumn and Winter!
ask-re the property people llp
THE MAYFAIR REPORT 2011
INTRODUCTION
W e act for many occupiers in
Mayfair on projects in retail,
leisure (restaurants and clubs) as
well as offices for occupiers. We
keep a close eye on the markets
and trends to allow us to tailor our
advice to our clients on important
lease events such as rent reviews,
breaks and lease ends so as to
adopt the best strategy. We have
set out a brief commentary on the
markets that we trust will be of assis-
tance.
RETAIL
The luxury retail market remains
strong and in the last year, prime
rents in locations such as the west
end of Oxford Street and South Mol-
ton Street have seen substantial in-
creases of about 20%. The highest
rents still remain in Bond Street at
about £950 zone A but other streets
such as Conduit Street are also see-
ing rental increases.
Vacancy rates are very low and
demand is illustrated by the £1.7m
“key money” paid in the middle of
this year for a unit in New Bond
Street.
Locations such as Mount Street have
also seen sharp increases of some
30% in the last year. This is a culmi-
nation of demand from global
brand names, the improvement in
the street scene through the Grosve-
nor’s pavement works and the nil
With the combination of demand
from the luxury sector and a low va-
cancy rate, we expect rents to con-
tinue to ease upwards and push
established retail sectors such as art
galleries to fringe locations.
Due to this growth, rent reviews
have been very fiercely contested
as we have found from our own ex-
periences on a major unit in Mount
Street and we suspect will become
even more so. Locations such as
Bruton Street have various reviews in
the next two years which we antici-
pate will also prove to be extremely
contentious. Occupiers should not
delay in dealing with these matters
but should instruct surveyors early to
protect their interests.
LEISURE
Occupiers have seen very limited
rental increases on their rent reviews
in the last couple of years. This may
primarily be because there have
hardly been any open market let-
tings in Mayfair upon which land-
lords have been able to rely to
prove rental increases on review.
It will also be interesting to see how
this market responds to one of the
very few open market lettings that
has taken place in Mayfair, that be-
ing of former bank premises in North
Audley Street at a rental level lower
than many occupiers are already
paying from historic rent reviews.
This has had a direct effect on a rent
review arbitration in South Audley
Street and the combination of the
two is likely to have a major effect
on various other rent reviews that
remain outstanding to the benefit of
occupiers.
Shorter unexpired lease terms are
becoming very much an issue of
contention as they limit the ability of
the occupier to amortise its fit-out
costs over the length of the short-
term lease to be assumed on rent
review. Occupiers in such positions
are finding this an opportune time to
negotiate with their landlords to ex-
tend their leases, a situation with
which we are actively involved in a
number of cases.
OFFICES
Average rents for grade A accom-
modation have continued to grow
steadily during 2011 due to a short-
age, particularly in Mayfair, of top
quality space. Over £100 psf has
been achieved as a headline rent in
one particular development in May-
fair.
There is a combination of a lack of
space under construction in Mayfair,
improvements in tenant demand
and vacancy rates at their lowest
level since 2008 and the demise of
Lehman Brothers. Consequently, the
expectations are that this level of
rent will be achieved in more in-
stances towards the end of 2011 for
top quality offices. This is likely to
drag up other office rents in the
area.
It is important that any occupiers
with rent reviews or lease renewals
coming up in the next year or so do
not allow these to drag and allow
landlords to benefit from such rental
growth by delaying for as long as
possible quoting revised rents and
opening negotiations. We are
therefore taking an aggressive
stance on behalf of our occupier
clients in relation to such events and
taking precipitative action to pro-
tect our clients’ interests. We urge
tenants to look at their lease events
early and not wait until the landlord
quotes a revised rent.
ask-re the property people llp
Chartered surveyors and corporate
real estate consultants
ask-re
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LONDON FASHION WEEK JERMYN STREET: HEART OF ST JAMES
F or some Milan is the world’s fashion
Mecca, for others it is New York,
but all eyes are on London as the city
struts its stuff.
With London Fashion Week the fash-
ion elite have descended on the
capital to judge the offerings of the
world’s greatest designers.
Fashion followers have been waiting
in anticipation to see if it will be the
flashy experimental showcase of sea-
sons past, or whether a return to British
modesty will take over the catwalk.
The reinvention of classic style was
sparked by tough economic times
and has restored faith in quality with
buyers frowning upon flash and em-
bracing subtle suits and well-cut clas-
sics.
This reawakening of British style in no-
where more epitomised than in St
James’s Jermyn Street, where leading
fashion retailers showcased the ‘Art of
Being British’ with a garden party and
fashion show.
As guests sipped Pimm’s and learned
the art of cigar-rolling, the street’s
retail stalwarts like Harvie & Hudson
showcased their wares to the stylish
patronage who joined the soiree.
Having been established since 1964
with two stores in the renowned men-
swear destination, the company con-
tinues to run a bespoke department,
which still cuts shirts on site at the 77
Jermyn Street store, second to none.
“I’ve noticed quite
a response from
customers ”
But as others have struggled in recent
times, the company - which also has
stores in Lime Street and Knights-
bridge – has gone from strength to
strength, including the launch of a
new website to access growing de-
mand for quality shirts and men-
swear.
Direct descendent of founder Thomas
George Harvie, Richard Harvie has
worked in store for several years and
attributed this success to youngsters
rediscovering the stylish street and its
long-running businesses and a return
to more formal and serious dress
code by younger city businessmen.
“Jermyn Street has always been famil-
iar probably more with the gentry
and while elder chaps – I’m glad to
say – are still with us, I’ve noticed
quite a response from customers
we’ve never seen before,” he said.
“The first reaction to the recession was
the return to very conservative dress,
but I think now that we’ve been
through that phase of real austerity
we have got to a point where people
are looking for individuality.
This reawakening of British style in no-
where more epitomised than in St
James’s Jermyn.
“I’ve noticed a big upturn in people
buying things like tweeds, bow ties,
cravats, silk scarves, silk handkerchiefs
and all things considered to be quite
old school and they have taken on a
ask-re
“I’ve noticed a
big upturn in
people buying
things”
a compelling modern aesthetic
and ultimately offering a wearable
wardrobe in a style intrinsic to the
Matthew Williamson brand’.
Stella McCartney’s latest collabo-
ration with sportswear brand Adi-
das will also be presented during
London Fashion Week.
Though not ones to boast, the com-
pany say they are an ‘all round
gentleman’s haven’ and even offer
a shoe shine, wet shave and bar-
ber service at their Lime Street store
– quite a shopping experience for
the modest man-about-town!
London’s other upmarket fashion
districts like Jermyn Street, Piccadilly
and Mayfair will also be on parade
as images of models and celebri-
ties are beamed around the world
during Fashion Week.
As the city’s high streets look to
cash in on this world class fashion
base, celebrated British designers
will be pushing their new collections
to savvy buyers, media and celeb-
rity clients, as well as visiting cogno-
scenti on the trail of the best of new
British design talent.
Local property consultants ask-re
The Property People LLP, based at
Bond Street, will be out and about
catching up with their local design
and fashion house clients, includ-
ing, Harvie & Hudson, Carolina
Herrera, Diane Von Furstenberg
and Avi Rossini.
Fashion Week favourite Matthew
Williamson - who has a store on
Bruton Street in the fashion haven
of Mayfair – has parade their latest
styles with a catwalk show at Som-
erset House.
The internationally renowned de-
signer recently announced his first
foray into menswear design for
Spring Summer 2011 after his well-
received collaboration with H&M in
2009 and a capsule collection
launched exclusively with Harrods
in March 2010.
Also building on the celebrated
heritage of British couture, the col-
lection looks to forge ‘a seamless
hybrid of indispensible classics with
ask-re
FASHION
FAVOURITES
Jermyn Street After having a bespoke shirt cut on
site at Harvie & Hudson’s store at
number 97, pop over to The Weiss
Gallery, a leading dealer in Tudor,
Stuart and North European Old
Master portraiture.
Bruton Street British fashion favourites Stella
McCartney and Matthew William-
son both have stores in Bruton
Street and here you will also find
Italian fashion house Brioni, local
favourites Matches Fashion and
Diane Von Furstenberg who is
known for her iconic wrap dresses.
Bond Street Known as a luxury shopping haven
Bond Street is home to fashion store
Boudi stocking leading global
brands including True Religion, Ed
Hardy, Roberto Cavalli and more.
After all the shopping perhaps
head for some lunch at the exclu-
sive local clubs and restaurants also
advised by ask-re. Japanese res-
taurant Umu offers a traditional
‘tasting’ menu as well as sushi and
sashimi among the stylish retailers in
Bruton Street. Not far from there is
Scott’s at Mount Street, Mayfair, an
outstanding seafood restaurant
using fish caught only from sustain-
able sources. Also in Mount Street is
the exclusive George club for pri-
vate members only!
ask-re
Multi Coloured Square Cufflinks
Harvie & Hudson
£32.50
ask-re Clients in Mayfair
ask-re Clients in Mayfair
ABBOT MEAD VICKERS BBDO LTD 151 Marylebone Road
CLIENT BRIEF Despite the 2005 lease rent being set some way
above the 2005 Rating List ratable value (the broadly
equivalent open-market rental hypothesis used for
property taxation); and despite two other large Estate
Agent businesses being unable to shift the ratable
value downward and who thus “pulled” their efforts;
Ask-re The Property People LLP put their property tax
specialists into action in 2008 to re-examine these and
re-appeal the ratable value used for the calculation of
business rates tax liability.
RESULT A stunningly good result, unexpected by the already-
advised client, of approximately £350,000 of savings
was achieved by negotiation and delivered in early
Spring 2010 back to a delighted client, perfectly timed
for Q1 training results! £350k straight into the bottom
line was a pretty satisfactory boost for the new 2010
year! This fantastic achievement was unexpected and
a great surprise following the previous unsuccessful
appeals. At Ask-re, our specialists never lose focus,
never give up and always get a result for the client –
even if we have to go through Valuation Tribunals and
Arbitrations to get there! But even so, local London
management at AMV BBDO and Omnicom Group
Europe were very quick to praise our efforts.
Colin Fleming, Finance Director AMV BBDO said:
“Ask-re really smashed it! We’ll definitely be using their
services again!”
We have had bigger results (here, we reduced
the tax base from £1,380,000 RV to
£1,270,000) but rarely have our skills been so
warmly and deeply appreciated by a big corpo-
rate business. AMV BBDO is of course a world-
class media business parented by Omnicom
Group (the World No.1 media conglomerate) so
our cost-savings work is usually way down the
agenda. For us, an aggravation to the client
was a positive tactical advantage for us – being
late! Instead of rushing the negotiations, we
instead created opportunity by going slow on
local rateable value negotiations, so as not to
throw away our appeal rights on a non-result,
instead making the evidence elsewhere show
reduced rateable values and thus by compari-
son getting the tax authorities to cut our client’s
bills substantially.
Had we rushed unprepared, we might well not
have been successful or to a much lesser ex-
tent. By the time we decided to strike, the actual
lease rent had been forgotten and discarded in
favour of better evidence we ourselves had
created, all very satisfactory.
And now for the 2010 revised tax base – we’re
quietly honing our blade now but slowly, as it
may not glint in the light of day until next year or
2010 – but when it falls, so will our client’s tax
liabilities and its property costs!
The Ask “difference” is results and track record
borne out of effective performance specialist
experience and professional client service – we
look forward to adding to it.
ask-re
ASK-RE Ask-re is one of the UK’s most effective property consultancies and was founded years ago by like-minded hands-on property people. Since then, the company has over provided business driven real estate consultancy and service delivery to about 1000 unique clients within the UK. We provide national reach, transferable skills and local delivery. WHAT WE DO We are the standout firm for unlocking the most complex and difficult real estate problems and converting problems into benefits, reducing cash outflows and liabilities, in order to make financial gains out of adverse situations. Our unique approach combines strategic property and business knowledge, designed to add value and reduce the cost of commercial property, occupation and ownership. We cut cost and create value. CONSULTANCY WITH CLIENTS Corporate Real Estate Services (CRES) is industry jargon for the special skill set for corporate occupiers of commercial properties. We match our skills-set to occupier issues and needs, producing bespoke solutions driven by purely individual needs and limited only by what the tenure and property conditions allow us to achieve. Our skills are particularly valuable and relevant during periods of downsizing or growing, whether disposing or acquiring, whether refinancing or releasing embedded assets. In addition to these more generalised scenarios, we offer specialist advice in matters such as capital allowances, lease restructuring and corporate finance either directly or with partners, as well as the embedded property specialists here at ask-re. OUR SERVICES ● Expert Witness Reports incl. Arbitrations ● Corporate Real Estate Services ● Investment in Property Assets ● Investment Property Asset Management ● Business Space Leasing/Disposals ● Rent Reviews, Lease Renewals & Valuations ● Business Rates Appeals & Tax Savings ● Planning and Development ● Dilapidations Negotiations ● Building Consultancy ● Smartspace (www.smartspace-uk.com) ● Globe/Reactive (www.globefacilities.co.uk) ● ædis (www.aedis-uk.com) ● Any Business Property Issue ? Please Just Ask! Design by aedis - www.aedis-uk.com the online and offline creative agency Edited by Samantha Freeman - Swartz
ask-re.co.uk
CLIENT BRIEF Our client, a well-known restaurant operator that occu-pies this well-known fish restaurant faced an extremely complicated rent review in which the premises had to be valued to the higher of retail or restaurant use. The client was faced with a huge increase with the landlord proposing a revised rent equating to 222% of the pass-ing rent. The landlord relied on substantial rental growth in the area and it was soon apparent that only the most robust of negotiations would succeed. It was further apparent, that by sticking to our honest opinions and doing the best for our client, there was no option but to refer the matter to arbitration. To further complicate matters the landlord raised a legal issue upon which we had to take legal advice via direct access to the bar. As part of our investigations, we investigated every property in the street, the leasing situation and the rental evidence appertaining. We also conducted an extensive search of restaurant evidence throughout the West End although we were already in possession of most of it. Extensive evidence was put before the arbitrator with our opinions, arguments, rental valuations. In the end, all the hard work was worth it. The result was a revised rent at some 40% below the landlord’s proposed rent and one that was approximately 20% below the landlord’s highest retail evidence and 30% below rental levels achieved shortly thereafter.
This review was also vital due to its potential impact on the rating assessment under the latest valuation list Furthermore, we achieved rates reductions for our client and other clients in the street resulting from the pavement works under-taken in the street.
It was also an important result bearing in mind the potential knock-on effect upon our client’s other business interests in close proximity to the prem-ises.
Resulting from our efforts, we are now in discus-sions with the landlord to extend the lease on preferential terms bearing in mind that our client is now paying a rent which is much less than current rental levels.
SKILLS
Rent Reviews
Expert Witness work – arbitration
Rating
Corporate Real Estate Services
ACTIONS
To secure a result substantially below prevailing rental levels.
Enhancing the value of our client’s lease hold interest.
Obtain notable rates reductions.
Protect our client’s other interests on nearby properties.
Save our client approaching £1.5m until the next rent review.
RESULTS
Our client’s interests protected and much money saved.
Ask-re hauls in a Fine Catch
ASK-RE Ask-re is one of the UK’s most effective property consultancies and was founded years ago by like-minded hands-on property people. Since then, the company has over provided business driven real estate consultancy and service delivery to about 1000 unique clients within the UK. We provide national reach, transferable skills and local delivery. WHAT WE DO We are the standout firm for unlocking the most complex and difficult real estate problems and converting problems into benefits, reducing cash outflows and liabilities, in order to make financial gains out of adverse situations. Our unique approach combines strategic property and business knowledge, designed to add value and reduce the cost of commercial property, occupation and ownership. We cut cost and create value. CONSULTANCY WITH CLIENTS Corporate Real Estate Services (CRES) is industry jargon for the special skill set for corporate occupiers of commercial properties. We match our skills-set to occupier issues and needs, producing bespoke solutions driven by purely individual needs and limited only by what the tenure and property conditions allow us to achieve. Our skills are particularly valuable and relevant during periods of downsizing or growing, whether disposing or acquiring, whether refinancing or releasing embedded assets. In addition to these more generalised scenarios, we offer specialist advice in matters such as capital allowances, lease restructuring and corporate finance either directly or with partners, as well as the embedded property specialists here at ask-re. OUR SERVICES ● Expert Witness Reports incl. Arbitrations ● Corporate Real Estate Services ● Investment in Property Assets ● Investment Property Asset Management ● Business Space Leasing/Disposals ● Rent Reviews, Lease Renewals & Valuations ● Business Rates Appeals & Tax Savings ● Planning and Development ● Dilapidations Negotiations ● Building Consultancy ● Smartspace (www.smartspace-uk.com) ● Globe/Reactive (www.globefacilities.co.uk) ● ædis (www.aedis-uk.com) ● Any Business Property Issue ? Please Just Ask! Design by aedis - www.aedis-uk.com the online and offline creative agency Edited by Samantha Freeman - Swartz
ask-re.co.uk
CLIENT BRIEF
Our initial instructions from the client were to dispose
of their existing Head Office at 105 Piccadilly W1. The
lease had 3 years to run until the expiry. Ask-re under-
took various marketing campaigns and as a result of
these, in a rapidly declining market, secured interest
from a FTSE 100 tenant to assign the lease on favour-
able terms, taking on a large service charge liability at
above market rent. On favourable terms having suc-
cessfully secured this interest, we were then asked to
acquire new premises in Mayfair. We negotiated mar-
ket terms on 52 Charles Street W1, just off Berkeley
Square, and secured a new 6-year lease with reduced
rent and a rent-free period.
Following simultaneous exchange of contracts for both Piccadilly and Charles Street ask-re’s building consul-tancy undertook the project management of the client’s fit out. They delivered, in an extremely short time frame, a high specification office space within budget enabling a seamless relocation to these new premises, using our specialist office fit- out and design team, Smartspace.
Following the move ask-re are now undertaking an
appeal and negotiation of 2005 business rates liabili-
ties at the new premises having already achieved a
successful result at Piccadilly. The appeal process will
then be undertaken following the 2010 Revaluation.
Finally, we are advising our client actively on Facilities
Management matters to ensure the office environment
remains well maintained and safe for the coming few
years.
Richard Shead, Director of Oxus Gold says:
'We saw the opportunity in a declining market
and decided to relocate our office to Berkeley
Square, our preferred location. Ask-re disposed
of our lease whilst securing offices in the square
on favourable terms, and ensured both the fit
out and office relocation were completed on
time, on budget and to a high standard. As a
business we're focused on day to day opera-
tions and ask-re's proactive and full-service
approach has made the move both a commer-
cial and operational success.'
SKILLS
Agency and business space leasing, business rates negotiations, project management and design, Facilities Management.
ACTIONS
To dispose of the large liability of the existing floor at a rent above market plus high service charge.
To acquire new premises on a flexible l ease on competitive market terms, within a short time frame.
Key issue for liability purposes was to ensure we could simultaneously ex change on both leases, which was achieved.
Key fit-out and furniture procurement delivered on budget ensuring a cost effective and successful relocation and “lift and shift” by Globe facilities.
RESULTS Great success for Oxus Gold and good outcome for Autonomy.
Ask-re delivers a GOLDEN result
ASK-RE Ask-re is one of the UK’s most effective property consultancies and was founded years ago by like-minded hands-on property people. Since then, the company has over provided business driven real estate consultancy and service delivery to about 1000 unique clients within the UK. We provide national reach, transferable skills and local delivery. WHAT WE DO We are the standout firm for unlocking the most complex and difficult real estate problems and converting problems into benefits, reducing cash outflows and liabilities, in order to make financial gains out of adverse situations. Our unique approach combines strategic property and business knowledge, designed to add value and reduce the cost of commercial property, occupation and ownership. We cut cost and create value. CONSULTANCY WITH CLIENTS Corporate Real Estate Services (CRES) is industry jargon for the special skill set for corporate occupiers of commercial properties. We match our skills-set to occupier issues and needs, producing bespoke solutions driven by purely individual needs and limited only by what the tenure and property conditions allow us to achieve. Our skills are particularly valuable and relevant during periods of downsizing or growing, whether disposing or acquiring, whether refinancing or releasing embedded assets. In addition to these more generalised scenarios, we offer specialist advice in matters such as capital allowances, lease restructuring and corporate finance either directly or with partners, as well as the embedded property specialists here at ask-re. OUR SERVICES ● Expert Witness Reports incl. Arbitrations ● Corporate Real Estate Services ● Investment in Property Assets ● Investment Property Asset Management ● Business Space Leasing/Disposals ● Rent Reviews, Lease Renewals & Valuations ● Business Rates Appeals & Tax Savings ● Planning and Development ● Dilapidations Negotiations ● Building Consultancy ● Smartspace (www.smartspace-uk.com) ● Globe/Reactive (www.globefacilities.co.uk) ● ædis (www.aedis-uk.com) ● Any Business Property Issue ? Please Just Ask! Design by aedis - www.aedis-uk.com the online and offline creative agency Edited by Samantha Freeman - Swartz
ask-re
A sk-re is one of the UK’s most effec-
tive property consultancies and
was founded years ago by like-minded
hands-on property people. Since then,
the company has provided business-
driven real estate consultancy and ser-
vice delivery to about 800 unique clients
within the UK. We provide national
reach, transferable skills and local deliv-
ery.
We are the standout firm for unlocking
the most complex and difficult real es-
tate problems and converting problems
into benefits, reducing cash outflows
and liabilities, in order to make financial
gains out of adverse situations.
Our unique approach combines strate-
gic property and business knowledge,
designed to add value and reduce the
cost of commercial property, occupa-
tion and ownership.
We cut cost and create value.
Corporate Real Estate Services (CRES) is
industry jargon for the special skill set for
corporate occupiers of commercial
properties. We match our skills-set to
occupier issues and needs, producing
bespoke solutions driven by purely indi-
vidual needs and limited only by what
the tenure and property conditions al-
low us to achieve.
Our skills are particularly valuable and
relevant during periods of downsizing or
growing, whether disposing or acquir-
ing, whether refinancing or releasing
embedded assets. In addition to these
more generalised scenarios, we offer
specialist advice in matters such as
capital allowances, lease restructuring
and corporate finance either directly or
with partners, as well as the embedded
property specialisms here at ask-re.
CONCLUSION
ask-re
HOLLY CROFT The Byou Interview
GIORGIO ARMANI’S Tribute To The Victims Of
Japan’s Tsunami
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Giorgio Armani’s Tribute to the
Victims of Japan's Tsunami by Sophia Hélène Price
H aute Couture Week is the pinna-
cle of the fashion season and last
week was no exception with re-
nowned designers from Elie Saab to
Azzedine Alaia showcasing their stun-
ning collections in the heart of
Paris. The elite crowd lunched at Les
Deux Abeilles, attended catwalk
shows at the Musée Rodin and sipped
cocktails at Valentino’s Castle of
Wideville but whilst it was easy to lose
one’s head in all the glamour, Giorgio
Armani brought his audience back to
earth with his Armani Privé Fall 2011
collection, entitled Hommage au Ja-
pon, which he dedicated to the vic-
tims of Japan’s March tsunami
A large percentage of Armani’s net
profit owes itself to the brand’s dec-
ade-long presence in Asia and al-
though Giorgio Armani had planned
to celebrate this success in May, the
event was cancelled out of respect
for the suffering in Japan. Whilst fash-
ion designers frequently make chari-
table gestures, Armani’s dedication
of his entire collection to the recovery
efforts in Japan was highly unusual.
The Italian designer was said to have
been ‘profoundly moved by the
tragic events’ of March’s
“Giorgio Armani
brought his
audience back to
earth ”
tsunami in which 23,000 were re-
ported dead or missing.
Taking place beneath the Palais de
Chaillot, VIP guests, among them
Anna Wintour, Katie Holmes and Cate
Blanchett, were seated in near dark-
ness for the duration of the show,
adding to the sombre nature of the
theme. Exquisite floral-print silk
dresses and suits were perfectly com-
plemented by Geisha style hair dos
and Philip Treacy’s origami-inspired
hats, followed by strong bustier
dresses reminiscent of Armani’s Janu-
ary haute couture collection.
Every detail of the 44 looks in the col-
lection had a Japanese feel whilst still
maintaining Armani’s trademark
modernist tailoring.
Black wool crepe blazers and straight
legged-trousers were finished off with
obi belts and stiff, geisha-style panels
added interest to the patent leather
bodices of his dresses.
The audience was visibly impressed,
Katie Holmes leapt from her seat to
give a solo standing ovation and
Anna Wintour was smiling broadly, by
what was clearly a very successful
show and undoubtedly an important
commercial move for the iconic de-
signer.
See Paris Couture Week
Fall Collection Gallery Byoutifulyou.com
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Giorgio Armani Haute Couture
AW11/12 Collection
Inside A Model’s Mind Life as a model
is not all fun and games by Sophia Hélène Price
Hi Holly, can you tell us a little about
how you started out in modelling?
I had been modelling on and off for five
years but I went to university and got
my degree in engineering before I de-
cided to move to London and pursue
modelling as a full time career. My mum
always told me to get my degree first
and I could try modelling afterwards, so
that’s what I did!
And how did you start out in London?
Well, I wasn’t sure whether to get pic-
tures done or exactly how to approach
an agency so I decided to just walk in
to places. Agencies always have walk
in hours and I went into Oxygen,
they signed me up there and then and I
have been modelling for them ever
since. I didn’t realise how lucky I was. I
know some girls really struggle but I did-
n’t have a problem.
What would you say is the hardest thing
about your modelling career?
I think it’s quite an unpredictable job so
it is not for the kind of person who
needs stability in their life. It’s also quite
a demanding job and people don’t
realise but it’s actually quite an anti-
social job because there is so much
competition.
What has been your favourite project?
I was booked to do a Vivienne West-
wood shoot and that was obviously
one of the biggest designer jobs so I
felt really privileged. It was quite funny
actually because I was modelling this
plain-looking t-shirt and I was made-
up with a crazy red lightning bolt
across my face and then they tried to
dress me after the make-up and they
were saying, ‘Please be careful with
that t-shirt, its worth £25,000!’.
When you do a shoot abroad do you
have time to visit anything or relax at
all?
No, you’re working all the time but I
do try and make time. When I was in
Paris I had never seen the Eiffel Tower
so I went really late one night. I was
exhausted but I just wanted to see it!
It’s not really like a holiday, you work
long days and by the time you’ve fin-
ished the sun has gone down anyway!
Do you have a preference between
catwalk shows and photo shoots?
I enjoy the variation. I like the
“people don’t realise but it’s actually
quite an anti-social job”
EXCLUSIVE: Stunner Holly Croft, 22, talks us through the
life of a successful model.
adrenalin rush of catwalk show and
there is something very unique about
wearing the designers’ clothes and
feeling important to them but I love
photo shoots because I can be who-
ever I want to be when I am behind
the camera. Catwalks are the lowest
paid jobs though and you have to
work
To read the full Interview
with Holly Croft go to Byoutifulyou.com
See Holly Croft’s
fashion scrapbook go to Byoutifulyou.com
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