Measuring Ocean Waves
Goes with Activity: Measuring Ocean Waves
Terms to know:
• Wave height: vertical distance from lowest (trough) part of wave to highest (crest) part of wave.• Amplitude: height of crest above still water level (1/2 wave height)• Wavelength: horizontal distance between two crests• Period: time between two adjacent crests
Diagram to show terms:
Diagram of wave properties
Speed of wave Equation
(T) period
(L) wavelength (C) speed Wave
Wave Steepness
)( wavelength
)(height wave steepness Wave
L
H
Deep Water depth = Wavelength/2
Deep water wave equations
• Wavelength (L) = 1.56 x wave period (T) squared
• Wave speed (C) = 1.56 x wave period (T) (m/s)
• Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L)/Wave period (T)
Shallow water depth = wavelength/20
Shallow water wave equations
• Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x • Wave speed (C) = 3.13 x Depth of ocean (D)
• Wave speed (C) = Wavelength (L) / Wave period (T) • )
Question 6: Measuring Waves
Question 7: Measuring Waves