Textile Testing Quality Control
Path to the Customer’s Heart
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
Our business is driven
by standards
Textile Test Products 2002
What is standardization?
� Standardization is the single solution of a recurring problem under the given scientific, technical and economic possibilities.
Textile Test Products 2002
How old is standardization?
� Ancient Egypt, 4000 years ago Standard on bricks made of mud of the river Nile: Length: 41 cm, width: 20 cm.
� Ancient Rome, 2000 years ago Standard on water pipes of lead: Fixed dimensions, minimum weight and numerical designation of pipes.
Textile Test Products 2002
What is a standard?
� Different definitions by different organizations
� ISO-Definition:
Standards are documented agreements containing technical
specifications or other precise criteria to be used consistently
as rules, guidelines, or definitions of characteristics, to
ensure that materials, products, processes and services are
fit for their purpose.
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards
� Standards are
developed voluntarily
used voluntarily
� Standards become legally binding
when a government references them in a regulation
when they are cited in a contract
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards
� Standards contain
a main part
Annexes or Appendixes
� The content is
mandatory (main part, normative annex) or
informal (notes, nonmandatory or informative annex)
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards
� Examples for different types of standards (ASTM):
classification
guide
practice
specification
terminology
test method
Textile Test Products 2002
Technical Standards
� Standards for test methods
may describe the required instruments in detail including
drawings, pictures, type of instrument, name and address of
manufacturer etc.
(often in company standards, American standards, “old“ ISO
standards)
may describe the performance of the test
(“new“ ISO standards, CEN standards)
Textile Test Products 2002
� "Performance based standards "- what does it mean?
They focus on the intent of the standard and will no longer
specify the type of equipment or manufacturer
They allow the user to conduct a test using non-specific
instrument parameters (basis: testing procedures)
They allow the manufacturer to design and to make
improvements to instruments without being "locked in" to a
particular design
Technical Standards
Textile Test Products 2002
� Performance based standards
advantage: does not retard the technical progress
disadvantage: open for competitors
disadvantage: may increase variability
Technical Standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations
� Different levels of Standardization
International ISO, IEC
Regional (European, Arabian countries, Latin America, ...)
CEN, CENELEC, ...
National ANSI, BSI, DIN, JISC, ...
Industry Association AATCC, SAE, VDA, ...
Company JC Penney, Marks & Spencer,
Sears, Victoria’s Secret...
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations International
� ISO - International Standardization Organization founded 1947
headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland 130 members, one in each country
2,800 technical bodies, 30,000 experts
12,000 standards ISO standards may, but do not have to be published by ISO members as national standards. Changes are allowed.
� IEC - International Electrotechnical Commission
founded 1906
headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland
formal agreement with ISO, JTC
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations ISO Members
� Australia (SAA)
� Brazil (ABNT)
� Canada (SCC)
� Chile (INN)
� China (CSBTS)
� Colombia (ICONTEC)
� Costa Rica (INTECO)
� Ecuador (INEN)
� Indonesia (BSN)
� Israel (SII)
� Japan (JISC)
� Malaysia (DSM)
� Mexico (DGN)
� New Zealand (SNZ)
� Panama (COPANIT)
� Philippines (BPS)
� Singapore (PSB)
� Thailand (TISI)
� USA (ANSI)
� and many more ...
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations Europe
� CEN - European Committee for Standardization
founded in the beginning of the sixties
headquarter: Brussels, Belgium
members: EC + EFTA + Czech Republic
CEN standards have to be published by CEN members as
national standards without any change.
� CENELEC - European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations CEN Members
� Austria (ON)
� Belgium (IBN/BIN)
� Czech Republic (CSNI)
� Denmark (DS)
� Finland (SFS)
� France (AFNOR)
� Germany (DIN)
� Greece (ELOT)
� Iceland (STRÍ)
� Ireland (NSAI)
� Italy (UNI)
� Luxembourg (SEE)
� Netherlands (NNI)
� Norway (NSF)
� Portugal (IPQ)
� Spain (AENOR)
� Sweden (SIS)
� Switzerland (SNV)
� United Kingdom (BSI)
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations Cooperation
� ISO/CEN Cooperation: Vienna agreement of 1991.
The agreement defines procedures for the following:
• cooperation by correspondence
• cooperation by mutual representation at meetings
• adoption of existing International Standards as
European Standards
• cooperation by transfer of work and parallel
approval of standards
Principal guideline: General test methods should be developed
within ISO. Requests for general test methods within CEN
should be transferred to ISO.
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations Committees
� ISO Technical Committees
TC 35 (Paints)
TC 38 (Textiles)
TC 61 (Plastics)
� CEN Technical Committees
TC 139 (Paints)
TC 248 (Textiles)
TC 249 (Plastics)
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations USA
� Governmental sector 80 Organizations, 44,000 standards
department of defense alone 34,000 standards
� Private sector
620 Organizations, 49,000 standards
central co-ordination: ANSI
130 professional associations and scientific Organizations (for
example AATCC, SAE),
14,000 standards
300 trade Organizations, 16,000 standards
40 Standardization Organization (for example ASTM),
17,000 standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations USA
� ANSI - American National Standards Institute founded 1918
non-profit Organization
coordinating Standardization work of 175 accredited Organizations in the private sector
no standard development
member of ISO and IEC
� ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials
founded 1898
profit Organization
132 committees, 32,000 members
10,000 standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Standardization Organizations USA
� SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers founded 1905
non-profit Organization
14,000 active members
1,400 automotive standards
� AATCC - American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists founded 1921
1,000 active members
185 standard methods, more than 40 % related to ISO standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Harmonization Trend
� Situation in the past
Only status of "recommendations"
� Situation at present and in future
Tendency to "worldwide acceptance" and in consequence
harmonization of National Standards with International
Standards.
� Major reasons for this trend
Globalization of the economy
European standardization situation (“new approach”)
Minimization of testing costs
Textile Test Products 2002
Harmonization Current Situation � Europe
CEN is taking over ISO and IEC standards resp. using these standards as a basis for European Standards (EN).
Replacement of national standards (DIN, BSI, AFNOR, ...) by ISO/IEC test methods directly or via CEN.
� USA Approach: Own test methods are revised so that they are identical or equivalent to the ISO methods.
Examples: ASTM G3 “Weathering and durability” and ASTM D20 “Plastics” .
Textile Test Products 2002
Harmonization � Basics of International Standards
Use of metric units
Performance based standards rather than instrument
describing standards
• Note: At present this is only really true for basic standards
Possible consequences from harmonizing National Standards
with International Standards
Change to metric units
Change to performance based standards
Textile Test Products 2002
ISO-TC´s
� General situation in International Standardization
(ISO) - weathering
� Technical committees (TC´s) in ISO preparing and revising
specifications (examples)
� TC 35 Paints and varnishes Note: Totally there are about
� TC 38 Textiles 50 ISO standards in the field of
� TC 45 Rubbers weathering.
� TC 61 Plastics Only about 20% are really per-
� TC 6 Paper and Board formance based standards !
� TC 21 Fire protection equipment
� TC 22 Road vehicles
� TC 42 Photography
� TC 106 Dentistry
� TC 130 Graphic technology
Textile Test Products 2002
Weathering Standards International
� ISO 105-B02 : 1994; Textiles - Tests for colour fastness - Part B02: Colour fastness to artificial light: Xenon arc fading lamp test (under revision)
� ISO 105-B06 : 1998; Textiles - Tests for colour fast-ness - Colour fastness and aging to artificial light at high temperatures: Xenon-arc fading lamp test Note: This is the only International Standard especially for testing of "automotive materials (interior)". This standard was not prepared by an "automotive committee" but by the "textile committee".
Note: This situation clearly reflects the missing interest of the automotive industry on uniform global standards.
Textile Test Products 2002
Important automotive
standards
Testing of automotive interior materials
• DIN 75202 (Revision - status 1996; not yet
published) - Interior materials in motor vehicles;
Determination of colour fastness and aging
behavior to artificial light at high temperature:
xenon arc lamp test
• DIN 75220 : 1992 - Aging of automotive
components in solar simulation units
• JASO M346 : 1993 - Light exposure test method
by xenon-arc lamp for automotive interior parts
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of standards
� Important contents of "performance based standards" for accelerated tests in instruments Main objectives
• Acceleration compared to outdoor exposure
• Reproducibility and repeatability of test results Key factors
• Radiation
• Temperature Further factors
• Relative humidity
• wet/dry cycles
• light/dark cycles
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of standards Radiation
� Important contents of performance based standards
Definition of "sun radiation" as a "reference spectrum" (normally based on the max. irradiance at the earth surface)
• CIE No.85; table 4 is worldwide accepted as reference today
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Radiation
� Important contents of performance based standards Specification of a "radiation function (UV and visible range)" based on the reference spectrum in wavelength steps with tolerances.
– Filtered xenon radiation is accepted to produce a spectral distribution that is the best simulation of sunlight over UV- and visible wavelength range.
– Caution: The actual ratio between broad band (300 nm - 400 nm) and wide band (300 nm - 800 nm) radiant exposure on the specimens surface depends on the reflectance of the specimens.
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Radiation
� Important contents of performance based standards
Definition of an irradiance level for the purpose of refe- rence
resp. specification of an irradiance level (normally based on
the max. irradiance at the earth surface ).
Description of "Measuring devices (broad band and narrow
band - especially for UV range of radiation)”.
Requirements on "calibration" of measuring devices.
Recommendation resp. specification to conduct tests as a
function of "radiant exposure” rather than test time.
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Radiation
� Measurement of radiation
Irradiance E and radiant exposure H
• Narrow band measurements: 340 nm
420 nm (normally)
• Broad band measurements: 300 nm - 400 nm
• Wide band measurements: 300 nm - 800 nm
Only measurements based on the same wavelength range can
be compared.
Based on a given spectral distribution the E-values can be
calculated by using conversion factors.
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Temperature
� Important contents of performance based standards
The heat efficacy of sun radiation is characterized by sample
surface temperature measurements.
Specification of the maximum sample surface temperature
(partially several values dependent on the purpose of the
test) as Black standard/panel temperatures (BST/BPT).
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Temperature
� Important contents of performance based standards
Recommendation to measure the minimum sample surface
temperature as White standard/panel temperatures (WST).
Description of "Black standard/panel as well as White
standard/panel thermometers”.
• Caution: There are differences in temperatures
indicated by BST (insulated) and BPT
(uninsulated) at given irradiance and chamber
temperature!
Specification of chamber temperature (CHT).
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Temperature
� Important contents of performance based standards
– In most standards only the BST or BPT is specified and
measurement of WST is recommended; in some standards
the BST or BPT and the CHT is specified.
The number of these standards is growing!
Examples:
• AATCC TM 16
• ISO 105-B06
• Automotive Standards
Textile Test Products 2002
Contents of Standards Temperature
� Sample surface temperature has been experienced to be the most critical factor in weathering tests! Why? Most secondary aging processes following the primary photochemical step depend on sample surface temperature.
It is not practicable to measure and control constant the surface
temperature of individual specimens in instruments.
Therefore in standards the sample surface temperature is only characterized by (a) "reference temperature(s)" - as already
described
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Crocking
� Crocking - A transfer of colorant from the surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another surface or to an adjacent area of the same fabric principally by rubbing
� Although a physical process, the primary evaluation is for appearance (color)
�Wet and dry evaluation typically performed
Textile Test Products 2002
Crocking Instruments
� Applicable to many textile materials including dye and printed fabrics, carpeting, and automotive interior materials
�Manual (for shorter tests) and automatic models available
� Linear and rotating motion models
� Can be adapted to provide simple abrasion tests for other materials
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Crocking
� AATCC Test Method 8 - Basic Crockmeter Method
� AATCC Test Method 116 - Rotary Vertical
� AATCC Test Method 165 - Carpets
� ISO 105-D02 - Organic Solvents
� ISO 105-X12 - Colorfastness to rubbing
� SAE J861 - Organic trim materials
� ASTM D5053 - Leather
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
� Recommended specimen size 5cm by 13cm
�Wet and dry tests are specified
�Mount white test cloth with the weave parallel to the direction of rubbing
� Run test for 10 complete turns
� Evaluate the white test cloth using the Gray Scale for Staining
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
� For the wet test:
Establish technique for preparing wet crock cloth squares by weighing a conditioned square, then thoroughly wet out a white testing square in distilled water
The wet pick-up should be 65 ± 5%
Use of a hand wringer is recommended
White cloth dried and conditioned prior to evaluation
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 116 (Rotary
Vertical Method)
�Method is especially useful for prints where the singling out of areas smaller than possible to test with Method 8 is required
�Wet and dry tests specified
� 20 complete turns specified
� Evaluation performed with the Gray Scale for Staining
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 165 (Carpets)
� Testing before/after treatments such as shampooing, steam or hot water extraction, or antistatic/antisoil application has been found useful
�Wet and Dry testing specified
� Ten complete turns (one per second) specified
� Evaluate with Gray Scale for Staining
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Crockmeter - CM-1
�Manual unit recommended for shorter tests
� Has cycle counter � Comes standard
with 16 mm finger and 9 newton arm
� For wet and dry tests • Cloth, abrasive paper,
and spring clip supplied
Textile Test Products 2002
CM-5 Crockmeter
� Automatic unit recommended for long/frequent tests
� Electrically powered
� Count-up timer with automatic shut down
• Cloth, abrasive paper, and spring clip supplied
Textile Test Products 2002
CM-6 Crockmeter
�Manual unit
� Reciprocating rotary
motion to meet AATCC
Test Method 116
� Can be used for wet
and dry testing
Textile Test Products 2002
Verification checks are extremely important to avoid incorrect results. Potential problems include:
� Crocking finger may need resurfacing
� Loose clips
� Incorrect mounting
� Loops to wire clips positioned downward
� Metal base warped
� Use Crocking Calibration Cloth!!
Textile Test Products 2002
Crockmeter Testing
� Non-textile applications Paint scratch and mar
UV curable inks using methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
Plastic abrasion
Copier toners
Image fastness
• ASTM F1319
Textile Test Products 2002
Abrasion Resistance
� AATCC Accelerotor® Simulates dry, moist or wet abrasion
Watertight test chamber
Different grade liners
Reference AATCC Test
Method 93
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Accelerotor®
� Fabric rotated within an abrasive lined cylinder
� Fabric subjected to: flexing
rubbing
shock
compression
stretching
other mechanical forces
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Accelerotor®
� Results affected by:
length of time
size and shape of impeller
rotational speed
abrasive liner
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Accelerotor®
� Typical tests run 2-6 minutes
• Special sizes and shapes of rotors are available
Textile Test Products 2002
Specimen Preparation and
Evaluation
�Method A (Weight Loss) Specimen size determined by weight of fabric
Procedure specifies measurement to ± 0.1%
�Method B (Strength Loss) Special specimen preparation requirements
Procedure specifies ASTM D5034 -- “Test for Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)”
�Other Evaluation Methods
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
� Reference ASTM Test Method D5362 - Standard Test Method
for Snagging
Resistance of Fabrics
(Bean Bag Test
Method)
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
� Simulates fabric snagging and picking through a tumbling action
� Provides good end-use simulation
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
� Applicable to knits and double knits
� Snag and picks result from fabric tumbling against series of rotating pins
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Resistance
� Snag - A yarn or part of a yarn pulled or plucked from the surface
� Distortion - General term for a visible defect in the texture of a fabric
� Protrusion - Visible group of fibers (or yarn) that extends above the fabric surface
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Resistance
� Three types of snags identified: snags that have protrusion and no distortion
snags that have distortion and no protrusion
snags that have both distortion and protrusion
� Distortion - Tension on a snagged yarn: changing the size of loops within a knitted fabric
causing breakage within a woven fabric
Textile Test Products 2002
Bean Bag Snag Tester
� Uses bean bags weighing approximately 0.45 kg
� Automatic shut off after 100 revolutions
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Resistance Method
� Laundering/Drycleaning as required
� Specimen preparation Make “socks” from 215mm by 115mm swatches
Sew supplied bean bags in these “socks”
� Typical test runs 100 revolutions
� Specimen evaluation
Textile Test Products 2002
Snagging Evaluation
�Option A (From ASTM D5362) ICI Photographic Snagging Standards
Rating system of “5” (no snagging) to “1” (very
severe snagging)
�Option B (From ASTM D5362) Points accumulated based on type of snag
Rating system based on total number of points observed
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling Resistance
� Common definitions are:
Fuzz - Untangled fiber ends that protrude from the
surface of a yarn or fabric
Pills - Bunches or balls of tangled fibers that are held
to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling Resistance
Standards
� ASTM D3512 - Standard Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface
Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
Pilling Tester Method
� DIN 53867
� JIS L1076
Textile Test Products 2002
Random Tumble Pilling Tester
� Determines resistance to pilling and related surface changes
� Applicable to knitted and woven fabrics
� Clear, lighted viewing chambers
Textile Test Products 2002
Random Tumble Pilling Tester
� Pills result from random tumble action against a mild abrasive
� Cotton fiber added to initiate pill formation
� Air injection system
�Good correlation to end-use performance
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling Resistance Test Method
� Laundering/Drycleaning as required
� Specimens cut to 105mm squares 45° to the warp and fill directions
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
� Hoechst Trevira Tested the Correlation between 2 Pilling Methods With Real Wear
� Random Tumble Pilling Test (DIN 53867)
� Martindale Method (DIN 53865/ISO CD 12945/2)
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
� Benchmark (Real Wear) Setup
21 fabrics of different origins and
constructions by different weavers
8 Wearers of articles for 6 weeks of different
sizes/wear patterns
Clothing assessed (DIN 53867) and dry-cleaned
every week (5 days)
Textile Test Products 2002
Pilling or Non-Pilling?
� Results Martindale showed greatly differing values when
compared to the wear test
RTPT Test showed good correlation to wear test
Wool / Linen 65/35 (290 g/linear m)
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Trevira 350/Viscose 67/33 (360 g/linear m)
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Textile Test Products 2002
When gluing the edges of pilling specimens to prevent raveling, apply the glue with the edge of a piece of cardboard. Adhesive can be thinned with water.
Textile Test Products 2002
Universal Wear Tester
�Other names include:
Stoll Quartermaster Wear
Tester
Flex Abrasion Tester
Surface Abrader
CS 22C
Textile Test Products 2002
Flexing and Abrasion
Resistance
� Common definitions are:
Abrasion - The wearing away of any part of a material by rubbing against another surface
• Surface abrasion
• Edge and fold abrasion
• Flex abrasion
Frosting - A change of fabric color caused by localized abrasive wear
Textile Test Products 2002
Universal Wear Tester
� Used to test: Woven, knitted, napped
and pile fabrics
Non-woven and coated
fabrics
Plastic films and rubber
sheeting
Athletic shoe materials
Textile Test Products 2002
Universal Wear Tester
�Other features: Frosting Attachment
Continuous Change
Abradant Head
Edge & Fold Abrasion
Clamp
Electrical Depth Micrometer
Textile Test Products 2002
Flexing and Abrasion
Resistance Test Methods
� AATCC Test Method 119 (Screen Wire)
� AATCC Test Method 120 (Emery Method)
� ASTM D3885 (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
� ASTM D3886 (Inflated Diaphragm Method)
� FTMS 191-5300 and 5302
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method Specifics
(AATCC)
Method 119
� 12.7 cm by 12.7 cm
� 1200 cycles suggested
� Uses stainless steel wire abradant
� Evaluate using Gray Scale
Method 120
� 10.8 cm diameter circles
� 100 cycles suggested
� Uses inflated rubber diaphragm and abradant
� Evaluate using Gray Scale
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method Specifics (ASTM)
Method D3885
� 200 mm by 38 mm
� 300 cycles suggested
� Uses yoke positioning device
� Evaluate for both appearance and physical changes
Method D3886
� 112 mm diameter circles
� Test to failure or cycle #
� Uses inflated rubber diaphragm and abradant
� Evaluate for both appearance and physical changes
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer
� Used to determine cause of streaks or uneven dyeing of knitted fabric
� Used by knitters as a Quality Control Device
• No official test method • Recommended by Cotton Inc.
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer (Principles of Operation)
�Optical grade polystyrene film placed on base plate
� Fabric placed on polystyrene
� Neoprene™ diaphragm placed on fabric
� Cover secures all layers
� Compressed air used to apply pressure on the fabric and polystyrene
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer (Principles of Operation)
� Heat applied to the base to soften the polystyrene
� Pressurized sample is forced into the softened polystyrene
� Heat turned off and cold water is circulated through the base hardening the polystyrene
� Fabric separated from the polystyrene
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric Streak Analyzer (Principles of Evaluation)
� Image in the polystyrene examined for flaw
� If a streak or defect is seen in the polystyrene
problem belongs to the knitter
� If a streak or defect is NOT seen in the polystyrene
problem belongs to the dyer
Textile Test Products 2002
Fabric sample should extend beyond the gasket to allow air trapped between the fabric and plastic sheet to escape.
Textile Test Products 2002
Laboratory Wringer
� Provides repeatable method for evenly extracting excess liquids from fabrics
� Used as an accessory to many ISO, AATCC, and ASTM methods
Textile Test Products 2002
Laboratory Wringer
� Padder used for wetting materials prior to wringing
� Adjustable weights for the top roller
� Safety switches stop motor if rollers forced apart • Neoprene® or Teflon®-
coated rollers available
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Perspiration Tester
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to
Perspiration
� Specimens of colored textiles are wet out in simulated perspiration solution, subjected to a fixed mechanical pressure and allowed to dry slowly at a slightly elevated temperature.
� AATCC Test Method 15 -- Perspiration
� AATCC Test Method 107 -- Water
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Perspiration Tester
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to
Perspiration
� Applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise colored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics
� Also applicable to dyestuffs
� Alkaline test eliminated after studies done in 1974
Some international and special end-use still require
alkaline test
Textile Test Products 2002
Scorch Tester
� Scorch Tester used for: Colorfastness to Dry Heat
Colorfastness to Pressing
Tensile Loss from Chlorine
Retention
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Heat
� AATCC Test Method 117 -- (Dry heat) Various temperature ranges depending on
requirements and the stability of the fibers
� AATCC Test Method 133 -- (Hot pressing) Dry, damp, and wet pressing methods described
depending on the end use of the textile
Various temperature levels used depending on class
of textile tested
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 117
� Specimen size not specified
� Testing time is 30 seconds
� Pressure specified is 40 ± 10 g/cm2
� Evaluate specimens for color change using:
Gray Scale for Color Change (Dyed fabrics)
Gray Scale for Staining (Undyed fabrics)
Textile Test Products 2002
Temperature Levels for
AATCC Test Method 117
AATCC Level I 149 ± 2C
Level II 163 ± 2C
Level III 177 ± 2C
Level IV 191 ± 2C
Level V 205 ± 2C
Level VI 219 ± 2C
Textile Test Products 2002
Temperature Levels for
AATCC Test Method 117
ISO Level I 150 ± 2C
Level II 180 ± 2C
Level III 210 ± 2C
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 133
� Dry Pressing -- Dry specimen pressed with heating device
� Damp Pressing -- Dry specimen covered with wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with heating device
�Wet Pressing -- Wet specimen covered with wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with heating device
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 133
� Temperatures specified: 110 ± 2C
150 ± 2C
200 ± 2C
� Table I of this test method identifies safe ironing temperatures for most fabrics
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 133
� Specimen size of 12cm by 4cm is recommended
� Yarn or thread, knitted to a fabric of above dimensions, is acceptable
� Dry, damp, and wet pressing all require 15 seconds of testing
� Evaluate using Gray Scale for Color Change
Textile Test Products 2002
Scorch Tester
� Used for both Test Methods 117 and 133
� Upper plate hinged for sample removal
� Adjustable pressure
� Thermostatic control
� Pyrometer temperature indicator
Textile Test Products 2002
Fixotest®
� Designed for the European market
� CE approved
�Meets ISO 105 P01, ISO 105 X11, AATCC TM 117 & 133
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
� AATCC Test Method 92 (Single sample method)
� AATCC Test Method 114 (Multiple sample method)
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Single Sample)
� Fabrics treated in sodium hypochlorite solution, rinsed, dried, and pressed between metal plates
� Solution should contain 0.25% available chlorine at a pH of 9.5
� Uses stock solution (such as Clorox) diluted with distilled water
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Single Sample)
� Recommended sample size is 35.6cm (warp direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)
� Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in solution, and rinsing a total of six times
� Samples are to be air dried
� Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Multiple Sample)
� Specimens are prepared using an automatic
washing machine and tumble dryer
�Washing, chlorination, and drying settings are
specified in the Test Method
� Specimen and tensile strip size are identical
to the Single Sample Method
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Single Sample)
� Recommended sample size is 35.6cm (warp direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)
� Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in solution, and rinsing a total of six times
� Samples are to be air dried
� Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention (Multiple Sample)
� Specimens are prepared using an automatic
washing machine and tumble dryer
�Washing, chlorination, and drying settings are
specified in the Test Method
� Specimen and tensile strip size are identical
to the Single Sample Method
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
� Strips scorched for 30 seconds as shown below:
Heating Plate
Strip specimen
Scorched Area
Textile Test Products 2002
Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
� Tensile testing should be performed on unchlorinated, unscorched, and scorched specimens
� Calculate tensile strength and report as a percentage loss
Textile Test Products 2002
Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
� Absorbency - the propensity of a material to take in and retain a liquid, usually water, in the pores and interstices of the material
�Water Repellency - The characteristic of a fiber, yarn or fabric to resist wetting
Textile Test Products 2002
Dynamic Absorption Tester
� Set of specimens placed into tumble jar with distilled water
� 20 minute cycle
� Specimens dried with Lab Wringer
�Weighed to nearest 0.1g
Textile Test Products 2002
Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
� Specimens cut into five 20.3cm x 20.3cm squares
� Squares cut on 45° bias
� Liquid latex or rubber cement spread on edges to prevent yarns from ravelling
Textile Test Products 2002
Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
� AATCC Test Method 70
� Test is suited for fabrics to which a finish (designed for water repellency) has been applied
� Subjects fabrics to end use conditions
� Not intended to measure rain penetration Test measures water into (not through) the fabric
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Other Laboratory Dyeing -
Laundering Equipment
� Suga - Japanese manufacturer
� AHIBA - Texomat G VI and Polymat
�Mathis - Labomat
� James H. Heal - Gyrowash
� Shirley Development
� Roaches
� Numerous Pacific Rim Companies
New Laundering Technology
�Quickwash Plus Laundering Test for Shrinkage and
Colorfastness
Single wash/rinse/dry cycle in 15
minutes
Correlates within 1% of AATCC
Method 135
Correlates well with ISO 6330
Saves on labor, utilities, materials
and TIME
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
New Test Methods
� AATCC TM 187-2000 Dimensional Stability of
Fabrics: Accelerated
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Correlation
Quickwash v. 5 cycles AATCC TM 135
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
Fleece Twill Jersey Oxford Pique0
2
4
6
8
10
12
Fleece Twill Jersey Oxford Pique
Quickwash Test
AATCC TM 135 test 5 cycles
% lengthwise shrinkage % widthwise shrinkage
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Quickwash Accessories
�QuickView™ Optical measurement for fabric shrinkage testing
Uses digital camera with microprocessor analysis
No grid placement or alignment required
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Quickwash Accessories
�QuickCut™ A novel laser guided swatch cutter Easily cuts several fabric layers in one stroke Straight and pinking cutting blades available
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Quickwash Accessories
�QuickTemp™ Electronic temperature controller for domestic laundry machines used in a laboratory
Control wash and rinse water temperature within 1°°C
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
�QuickPunch™ Tabletop device for stamping out multiple fabric specimens
Cuts precise and accurate specimens quickly and safely
Prepares specimens for variety of textile tests
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
�QuickCircle™ Cut standard 100 cm2 round specimens easily
Precise specimens cut by pressing a button
Blade spins with equal pressure incision
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
�QuickCalc™ Determines fabric yield
Converts standard 100 cm2 round specimen weight to g/m2 or oz/yd2
Features ratio analysis for blended materials
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Specimen Preparation
Accessories
�QuickDry™ Dries specimens in 7 to 10 minutes
Tumbling action and warm air circulation eliminates distortion
Smooth specimens for easy measuring
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001
Textile Test Products 2002
Laundering Equipment
Applications
�Washfastness Tests
� Dry Cleaning Tests
� Efficiency of washing detergents
� Laboratory dyeing
Textile Test Products 2002
Laundering Tests
� Common definitions: Washfastness - the property of a material, usually an
assigned number, depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of laundering,
drycleaning, or other means of soil removal
Textile Test Products 2002
Common Laundering Test
Methods
� AATCC Test Method 61 - Accelerated test for Home and Commercial Laundering
� AATCC Test Method 86 - Drycleaning of Applied Designs and Finishes
� AATCC Test Method 132 - Drycleaning
� AATCC Test Method 151 - Resistance to Soil Redeposition
Textile Test Products 2002
Common Laundering Test
Methods
� ISO 105 C01 through C05 - Colorfastness to washing tests which between them cover mild to severe washing procedures
� ISO 105 C06 - Colorfastness to domestic and commercial laundry
� ISO 105 D01 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
� Accelerated test to evaluate colorfastness to laundering
�One 45-minute test closely approximates five hand, home or commercial washings
� Staining effects not as predictable
�Method first developed in 1950
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
� Abrasive action for acceleration caused by:
Frictional effects of fabric against the container,
Low solution ratio
Impact of steel balls on the fabric
� Several test methods specified for different applications
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
� Specimen size 5cm by 10cm or 5cm by 15cm depending on test cycle
� Use Multifiber Test Fabric for staining determination
� Test method describes specific preparation procedures for knitted fabrics, piles, and yarns
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
Test No. 1A -- Hand laundering, Low Temp.
Test No. 2A -- Machine laundering, Low Temp.
Test No. 3A -- Heavy duty cycles, High Temp.
Test No. 4A -- Chlorine test, Low % Solution
Test No. 5A -- Chlorine test, High % Solution
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 61
Test No.
Temp
(°°°°C)
Liquid
Volume
%
Detergent Chlorine
No. Steel
Balls
Time
(min.)
1A 40 200 mL 0.37 None 10 45
2A 49 150 mL 0.15 None 50 45
3A 71 50 mL 0.15 None 100 45
4A 71 50 mL 0.15 0.015% 100 45
5A 49 150 mL 0.15 0.027% 50 45
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Launder-Ometer
� Atlas Launder-Ometer accepted formally by AATCC
�Optimum agitation method
� Precise temperature control
� Programmable cycle testing AATCC Launder-Ometer®
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Launder-Ometer®
� Used for washfastness testing up to 93 °C
�Water bath stainless steel construction
�Manually set thermostat
� 20 position stainless steel rotor 20 Position Rotor
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Launder-Ometer®
� Programmable thermostat Multiple step heating and
cooling programs
Storage for 99 programs
Digital temperature display
�Optional pre-heater
�Optional rotor for special 2400 mL container size
PS-5 Preheater Module
Textile Test Products 2002
Atlas LP2 Launder-Ometer®
� High temperature dyeing up to 150 °C
�Washfastness tester
�Glycerin or water bath
�Microprocessor control
�Multiple container sizes
Textile Test Products 2002
Other Laboratory Dyeing -
Laundering Equipment
� Linitest+ Laboratory Dyeing and Fastness System Referenced in ISO
Colorfastness to Laundering
Methods and corresponding
national tests
ISO 105 E12 - Fastness to
milling (severe tests)
Compact table top system
Manufactured in Germany
Textile Test Products 2002
Washfastness Testing
� Industries
Textiles
Dye laboratories
Dye-stuff manufacturers
Producers of detergents
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Lightfastness Testing of
Textiles
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Light -
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
� Lightfastness “The property of a material, usually an assigned
number, depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of exposure of the
material to sunlight or an artificial light source.”
Loss of color (Fading)
Fiber degradation
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Light -Test
Methods
� AATCC Test Method 16 Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in USA
� ISO 105 B02 Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in Europe
Approximately 60% use Air Cooled / 40% use
Water Cooled
� SAE J1885 A severe test used by US automobile manufacturers
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Test Method 16
�Option A, D - Carbon-Arc
�Option C - Daylight
�Option E, F - Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc
�Option H, I, J - Air-Cooled Xenon-Arc
Options for each device represent continuous or alternating light/dark cycles
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Option C
(Daylight)
� Test specimens exposed behind glass 2 mm single strength sheet glass
� Specimens should be at least 75 mm below glass surface
� Different exposure types will give different exposure temperature conditions Open backed - Lower temperatures
(Solid) backed - Higher temperatures
Textile Test Products 2002
Under Glass Exposure Rack
Textile Test Products 2002
Static Indirect
Wavelength (nm) SS Window Glass
Herculite (clear) LOF EZ-Kool
Glass Solar Energy Transmittance
0
20
40
60
80
300
310
320
330
340
350
360
370
380
390
400
Laminated
Textile Test Products 2002
Laboratory Accelerated Tests
Desirable Characteristics:
� Exact match to end-use conditions
� Does not alter degradation mechanisms;
i.e. “correlates” with end-use
� Repeatable and reproducible
� Independent control over stress factors
� Provides “acceleration” over real time
Textile Test Products 2002
Lightfastness to AATCC 16
� Principles Specimens (and AATCC Blue Wool Standards)are
exposed under specified conditions.
The duration of the exposure is usually determind by a
specified amont of light exposure in AATCC Fading
Units (AFU)
The Lightfastness is evaluated visually by comparison of
the contrasts between exposed and unexposed
protions of the specimens to the steps of the „ AATCC
Gray Scale for Color Change“ or instrumental by Color
measurement.
Lightfastness classification by evaluation versus the
simultaneously exposed AATCC Blue Wool Standards
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Fading Units
�One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the exposure required to produce a color change equal to Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color Change on an L4 Blue Wool
� 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420 nm exposure based on interlaboratory test study
� L4 used for instrument calibration: Fading of L4 equal to step 4 Gray Scale or Delta E
1,7 +- 0,3 in 20 +- 2 hours
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Options E, F (Water-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option E
63°C BPT
43°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Borosilicate Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Option F
63°C BPT
43°C Dry Bulb
3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark
35% R.H./90% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Borosilicate Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Textile Test Products 2002
Filtered Xenon Arc Vs. Sunlight Relative Irradiance (W/m2 per nm)
Wavelength in nanometers
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Option H (Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option H
60°C BST
32°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% Relative Humidity
Seven special Borosilicate IR Absorbing Filters
1.25 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Textile Test Products 2002
Test Method 16 - Options I, J (Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option I
70°C BST
43°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Quartz Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Option J
70°C BST
43°C Dry Bulb
3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark
35% R.H./90% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter
Quartz Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm
Textile Test Products 2002
Air-cooled Xenon
� Meets requirements of ISO 105 test methods
� Option for high irradiance (220 W/m2 - 300 to 400 nm)
� Same control features as other high-end xenon arc devices
� Meets requirements of Options H, I, and J
Xenotest® Alpha
Textile Test Products 2002
Lightfastness to ISO 105
Colourfastness to Artificial Daylight: Xenon
Arc
1994
B 02
Colourfastness to (Natural) Daylight 1994 B 01
Instrumental Assessment of Change in Colour 1996 A 05
Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour 1993 A 02
General Principles 1994 A 01
Title Year Designation
Textile Test Products 2002
Weatherfastness to ISO 105
Colourfastness to Artificial Weathering:
Xenon Arc
1994 B 04
Colourfastness to Weathering: Outdoor
exposure
1994 B 03
Title Year Designation
Textile Test Products 2002
ISO Blue Wool Standards
Standard 1 or L2
Standard 2 or L3
Standard 3 or L4
Standard 4 or L5
Standard 5 or L6
Standard 6 or L7
Standard 7 or L8
Standard 8 or L9
First Cover
Second Cover
Textile Test Products 2002
Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105
� Procedure 1 : Inspection of Specimen Expose one specimen together with one set of Blue Wool
Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5
(first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed
portions of the specimen
Note the number of the Blue Wool Standard showing the same
contrast
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 4
Change the cover mask
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 3
.
Textile Test Products 2002
Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105 � Procedure 2 : Inspection of Blue Wool Standards
Expose several specimens together with one set of Blue Wool Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5 (first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed portions of the Blue Wool Standard 3
Inspect specimens and note changes compared to Standards 1 – 3 (prelimanary assessment)
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 4
Change the cover mask
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 6
Change the cover mask
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale step 4 on Blue Wool Standard 7
Textile Test Products 2002
Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105 � Procedure 3 : checking conformity with a
performance specification Expose the specimens with only 2 Blue Wool Standards: -
the Standard of the requested lightfastness, e.g. 5
- the standard below, e g. 4
Expose until contrasts to Grey Scale Steps 4 and 3 (by
changing cover masks) have been obtained on the standard
of the requested lightfastness
Textile Test Products 2002
Standard Requirements to ISO
105 B02 - 1994
5 / 6 – 7 / 3 Rel.Humidity: Light Fastness on
Red Control Fabric
45 °C (normal cond.)/ 60 °C low H. / 40 °C high H.
50 °C / 65 °C / 45 °C
Max. Black Panel Temperature
Max. Black Standard Temperature
42 W/m² ( 300 – 400 nm) for instruments using irradiance
control features
Irradiance recommended
Light Filter with a transmission of 90% betwen 380 nm
and 750 nm, falling to 0 % between 310 nm and 320 nm
Filter system
Turning Mode Operation
Textile Test Products 2002
Instrument Settings
30 – 40 %
should be checked with
Control Fabric
40 – 50 %
should be checked with
Control Fabric
Relative Humidity
(normal conditions)
45 / 50 °C
45 / 50 °C Max. BPT / BST
(normal conditions)
42 W/m²
Power step 2 Irradiance (300-400nm)
Lantern with 7 IR Filters
+ Borosilicate Cylinder
Lantern with 7 IR-Filters+
Borosilicate Cylinder
Filter System
Xenotest Alpha Xenotest 150 S Setting
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
The answer should be on your desk!
Textile Test Products 2002
Follow the directions exactly
--Calibration
--Instrument settings
--Lamp Filters
Textile Test Products 2002
Ask Questions
Resources----
• Atlas Representative
• AATCC, ASTM, etc technical staff
• Your customer
• Your supplier
Textile Test Products 2002
Other things to examine
� Specimen Thickness
� Specimen Mounting
The irradiance received on the surfaces of an
exposed specimen is inversely proportional to
the square of the distance from the source.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
93,000,000 miles
Specimens exposed at any point (or elevation) on the earth’s surface will not be affected by distance.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
� Different size instruments are calibrated to compensate for differences in rack diameter
� Features to improve uniformity
Rotating rack around the light source
Three-tier inclined rack design
Proper lamp calibration
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
10 in.
9 in.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
Applying the inverse square law:
Irradiance = (Distance1)2
(Distance2)2
1.23 = (10)2
(9)2
Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond
the specimen holder will receive 1.23 times the
irradiance reported by the fading device.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
18.5 in.
17.5 in.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance Considerations
Applying the inverse square law:
Irradiance = (Distance1)2
(Distance2)2
1.12 = (18.5)2
(17.5)2
Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond
the specimen holder will receive 1.12 times the
irradiance reported by the fading device.
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance - Without Control
Time (hours)
Irra
dia
nce
100 200 500 600
Textile Test Products 2002
Irradiance With Control
Time or Radiant Exposure (kJ/m2)
Irra
dia
nce
100 200 500 600
Textile Test Products 2002
Colorfastness to Light - Test
Methods
Other Lightfastness Test Methods � AATCC Test Method 111 - Weather Resistance
111A, C - Carbon Arc (with/without wetting)
111B - Natural Light and Weather (Direct Exposure)
111D - Natural Light and Weather (Behind Glass)
� AATCC Test Method 177 - Elevated Temp. and Humidity
� DIN 75202
� DIN 54004
Textile Test Products 2002
Direct Weathering
45° South Exposure Rack
Textile Test Products 2002
Standard Reference Materials
AATCC Blue Wool
� AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard One of a group of dyed wool fabrics distributed by
AATCC for use in determining the amount of light exposure of specimens during lightfastness testing
Various proportions of wool blends with a very
unstable dyestuff
L2 through L9 - Increasing degree of light stability
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Blue Wool
� Differs from the ISO Blue Wool standards
CANNOT be used interchangeably
� Each higher numbered standard is twice as colorfast as the proceeding number
�More uniform and reproducible results when the Blue Wool is backed with white cardboard
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Blue Wool
� Humidity and temperature sensitive
� Can be used as troubleshooting tool for lightfastness equipment for many factors
� Color change in AATCC Blue Wool performed the same as with test textile specimens
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Blue Wool
� Designed for use as a dosimeter for determining exposure
This use is becoming less common with the advent
of accurate radiometers
� L2 and L4 are used almost exclusively today
Textile Test Products 2002
Radiometric Quantities (Selected) Radiant Energy: Energy passed on as electromagnetic radiation, e.g. heat, radio, light Irradiance: Radiant flux incident per unit area of surface Units = W/m2 Spectral Irradiance: Irradiance measured as a function of wavelength Units = W/m2 . nm
W = Watts s = Seconds m = Meter nm = Nanometer J = Joule
Textile Test Products 2002
Radiometric Quantities
Radiant Exposure: Time integral of irradiance (Irradiation)
J/m2 = W/m2 . s
kJ/m2 = 1000 J/m2
... To convert a value given in J/m2 to kJ/m2 , you must divide by 1000
kJ/m2 = W/m2 . s 1
1000
Textile Test Products 2002
� When exposure time is expressed in hours (h)
one must convert to seconds.
Thus the familiar equation:
kJ/m2 = W
m2 • h • 1
1000 • 3600
s
h
kJ/m2 = W/m2 • • h 3.6
Radiometric Quantities
Textile Test Products 2002
Example
� Use of equation:
kJ/m2 = W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)
To determine duration of a test for specific radiant exposure:
500 kJ/m2 • nm @ 420nm
When operating at an irradiance level of 1.10 W/m2 • nm:
500 kJ/m2 = 1.10 W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)
h = 500 kJ/m2
1.10 W/m2 x 3.6 = 126 light hours
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Fading Units
� One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the exposure required to produce a color change equal to Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color Change on an L4 Blue Wool
� 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420 nm exposure based on interlaboratory test study
Textile Test Products 2002
Calculation of Radiant Exposure
� Visual evaluation of color change of Blue Wool defined to determine (or verify) radiant exposures
�Many companies use spectrophotometer to measure change Spectrophotometers measure color differently than the human eye
Tables that define Step 4 of Grey Scale color change confusing
� Because of confusion, reproducibility may suffer
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Test Products 2002
Evaluation
� We don’t know if the test is right if the answer isn’t understood
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Gray Scale
Designed for visual evaluation of color change or staining.
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Gray Scale
� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change Describes the scale and use for visual color
evaluation
Defines Step 4 to be 1.7 ± 0.3 ∆E Color Units
Based on CIE 1976 L*a*b* color scale
∆E = [(∆L*)2 + (∆a*)2 + (∆b*)2 ]½
Textile Test Products 2002
AATCC Gray Scale
� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test Specimen States in scope to be an “alternative” to Evaluation
Procedure 1
Defines Step 4 of Gray Scale to be ≥ 1.25 and <2.10
Based on ∆EF which is used to represent the special
gray scale color difference and separate this ∆E from others in normal use.
∆EF = [(∆L*)2 + (∆CF)2 + (∆HF)2 ]½
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation of Textiles
� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 6 Instrumental Color Measurement
� AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of
a Test Specimen
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
� Definition of a Gray Scale (from AATCC)
A scale consisting of pairs of standard gray chips,
the pairs representing progressive differences
in color or contrast corresponding to numerical
colorfastness grades.
Rating scale from 5 (no change) to 1(most change)
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
� Important factors to consider when performing visual color evaluation: Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)
Light Quantity
Viewing Angle
Reporting color change quantitatively and
qualitatively
Experience of observer
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
� Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)
Illuminant D75 - Overcast northern sky
Illuminant D65 - Average daylight
Illuminant D50 - Color photography applications
Illuminant A - Home/business incandescent
Illuminant F2 - “Cool white” fluorescent
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
� Light Quantity AATCC Procedure 1 - Requires at least 538 lux (50
lumens/ft2 or footcandles)
ASTM D1729
• 1080 to 1340 lux (critical evaluation)
• 810 to 1880 lux (general evaluation)
� Large variations in output occur depending on
the distance from the light source.
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
� Viewing Angle and Conditions Incident light upon the surface - 45° ± 5°
Observer viewing angle - 90° ± 5°
Sample plane
45°
Observer line
of sight
Light Source
90°
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
�Other factors: Light source should be semi-directional to view
specimen texture
Surrounding area should be neutral in color
Gloss of surrounding area should be low
Gray scale and lighting apparatus should be
checked and maintained frequently
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
� Reporting Change in lightness - Numerical grade
Change in hue - Bluer, yellower, redder, etc.
Change in chroma - Change in saturation of color
�Metamerism - color match under a specified light source but differing spectral curves
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
Experience and training for gray scale
evaluation is extremely important because of
rating subjectivity
ASTM D1499 identifies several tests for color
change acuity:
Color Blindness Test (Ishihara)
Color Rule Test
Farnsworth-Munsell 100
Hue Test
Triangle Test
HVC (Hue, Value, and
Chroma) Color Vision Skill
Test
Textile Test Products 2002
Staining Evaluation - Gray
Scale
� Same basic evaluation techniques and parameters
� Compared to “gray” scale using a nominally white chip as the comparison
Note: The amount of color difference, based on Table I of
Procedure 1 and 2, is different for each scale.
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation Tools
� Atlas Equipment Color-Chex
TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System
Variolux
�Other manufacturers
Textile Test Products 2002
Color-Chex™
� Used in several industries other than textiles
� All specified light sources
� Designed to meet specific viewing conditions
• Fits on desktop
Textile Test Products 2002
Variolux
� Used in several industries other than textiles
� Large viewing area � Large opening for
large samples � Light sources have
separate hour counter
Textile Test Products 2002
TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System
� Used in office or laboratory environments
�Overhead lighting system
� Illuminant D65 light source
� Produces controlled reproducible systems
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation - Instrumental
�Geometry Diffuse (sphere) or 0/45
� Illuminant Same light sources available as visual methods
� Color Scale 1976 CIE L* a* b*
Calculating and reporting color change
Textile Test Products 2002
Color Evaluation
Although instrumental color evaluation provides more repeatable, precise data, it is usually the
visual color evaluation that is used as the determining factor whether a material “passes
or fails” any given colorfastness test.
Textile Test Products 2002
Multifiber Test Fabrics
� Used to determine staining effects (as a result of tests) on several types of common fabric
� Referenced in laundering, perspiration, and other test methods
� Typical use is to sew test material onto Multifiber
Textile Test Products 2002
Multifiber Test Fabrics
�Multifiber No. 1 and FB contain bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon, and wool (0.8 cm wide bands)
�Multifiber No. 10, 10A, FA, and FAA contain bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester, acrylic, and wool
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
� Lightfastness
�Washfastness
� Color Transfer
� Surface Appearance
� Flammability
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
� Lightfastness “The property of a material, usually an assigned
number, depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of exposure of the material
to sunlight or an artificial light source.”
Loss of color (Fading)
Fiber degradation
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
�Washfastness “The property of a material, usually an assigned number,
depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a result of washing or laundering processes.”
Color Transfer
Shrinkage
Fiber degradation
Loss of Color (Fading)
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
� Color Transfer - Rubbing & Heat Crocking
Perspiration
Hot Pressing
� Surface Appearance Pilling
Edge and Surface Abrasion
Fabric Streaking
Color Appearance under Light
Textile Test Products 2002
Textile Testing Elements
� Flammability
Ignition
Flame Spread
Heat Release (before flashover)
Smoke, Toxicity (wall coverings, upholstery, etc.)
Textile Test Products 2002
Flammability Testing
� Common definition: Flammability is those characteristics of a
material that pertain to its relative ease to ignite and relative ability to sustain
combustion.
Textile Test Products 2002
Flammability Testing
�Governed by Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC)
Apparel: 16 CFR Part 1610
Children’s
Sleepwear: 16 CFR Parts 1615
and 1616
Textile Test Products 2002
AFC 45°°°° Flame Chamber
� Used for apparel textiles • Plain surfaces
• Raised fiber surfaces
� Also meets ASTM D 1230
Textile Test Products 2002
AFC 45°°°° Flame Chamber
� Specimen positioned at 45º angle
� 1 second flame impingement
� Test stops when stop cord breaks or specimen self-extinguishes
Textile Test Products 2002
AFC 45°°°° Flame Chamber
� Brushing device for raised fiber surfaces
Textile Test Products 2002
VFC Vertical Flame Chamber
� Specimens suspended vertically
� Flame applied for 12 seconds
� Char length measured
• VFC with Children’s Sleepwear Burner
Textile Test Products 2002
VFC Vertical Flame Chamber
� For testing children’s sleepwear
� Also used for other textiles, camping tentage, foam
� Also meets ASTM D 6413 and California TB-117 • VFC with ASTM
burner
Textile Test Products 2002
QUESTIONS????
Textile Test Products 2002