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} Theotton Textile Worker's
Handbook
A CONVENIENT REFERENCE BOOKFor All Persons Interested In
he Spinning of CottonYarns, the Weaving ofCotton Fabrics, and the Yarn and Cloth
Calculations Incidental
Thereto
BY
International Correspondence Schools
SCRANTON, PA.
2d Edition, 7th Thousand, 2d Impression
scranton, pa.
International Textbook Company
PREFACEIn this work, the publishers have not attempted
to produce a condensed cyclopedia covering theottensive field of cotton manufacturing, but theyhave aimed to present a useful reference bookconvenient to carry in the pocketa pocketbookin truthand containing information, especiallyrules, tables, etc., often used and required bysuperintendents, overseers, fixers, and, in fact, allpersons engaged or interested in the great cottontextile manufacturing industry and its manyramifications.
The intention has been to select from a vastamount of material only that which is most likelyto be of use in connection with daily work or towhich reference will be made most frequently.The treatment of many subjects is of necessitybrief, but these matters have been covered to thefull extent of the available space, and the textrelating thereto includes that which is mostvaluable for frequent reference. The materialon yarn calculations, cloth calculations, anddraft calculations presents, in each case, a fin-ished treatise that, it is hoped, will prove ofgreat value. Many tables are included and a
iii
IV PREFACE
great number of these, such as, for instance, thecotton-yarn numbering table, the cotton-rovingnumbering table, and the many tables indicatingthe production of various machines under a
wide range of conditions, should prove of daily
use. Other tables and much information anddata relative to the timing, setting, and adjust-ment of textile machinery will be of importance
on many occasions. Great care has been taken
to insure the accuracy of the large number of
rules included, and these will be found entirely
trustworthy.This handbook has been prepared by, and
-under the supervision of, Mr. C. J. Brickett,
Principal of our School of Textiles.
International Correspondence Schools
January, 1920
INDEX
Adjusting dobby knives,266
shuttle-feeler thread cut-ter, 290
the binders, 260the lug strap, 259the protector motion, 260
Adjustment of filling-changing mechanism,287
Advantages of metallicrolls, 145
Albert twill, Filling-flush,312.
twill", Warp-flush, 312All-seed cotton, 95Allowance for size, 54Allowances made in calcu-
lating production anddraft of metallic rolls,83
on calculated productionof ring frames, 202
American cotton, 94cotton. Drawing-roll set-tings for, 147
Amsterdam system of num-bering woolen yarns, 25
Angle of twills, 310Angled draft, 308Angular measure, 338Apothecaries' weight, 335Artificial silk, 23Automatic feeder, 106looms, 273stop-motions, 245
Average counts of cloth, 58counts of cloth. Rule to
find, 58, 67counts. Rule to find, 45
Average number of yarn be-ing spun. Rule to find,205
numbers, 45yards per pound, deniersystem, 20
Avoirdupois weight. Tableof, 334
Back knife plate, 123rolls, 72
Backing oH, 208Bale breaker, 105Banging off, 261Basket weaves, 319weaves, Fancy, irregular,and twilled, 320
Bat-wing pick, 248Beam warpers, Production
of, 233warping, 230
Beamed yarns, 42Beams, Loom, 42Bearings, Table of dis-'
tances between, 349Beater, 108Beating up, 245, 249Bedford-cord weaves, 332
cords. Piques and, 328Belt fastenings, 353Rule to find length ofcrossed, 356
Rule to find length ofopen, 356
Belts, 352Care of, 352Horsepower transmittedby, 357
Length of, 356Quarter-turn, 354
INDEX
Benders cotton, 95Bier, 52Binders, Adjusting the, 260Bloom, 100Bobbins, 195
Sizes of, 195Bonnet, 'Doffer, 125Licker, 122
Bex chains. Building, 269looms, 267motions. Timing of, 272
Boxes, Leveling the, 272Break draft, 80Breaker, Bale, 105
picker, 108Breaking weight of Ameri-
can cotton warp yarns,Average, 34
weight of cotton warpyarn, 33
Broken crow weave. Fill-ing-flush, 312
crow weave, Warp-fltish,313
Brown Egyptian cotton, 95Brush gauge, 168Builder gear on mule. Rule
to find, 216Building box chains, 269
CCabled yarns, 219Calculating draft of com-
mon rolls, 78Calculation of colored
mixes, 117Calculations, Card-clothing,
128Cloth, 48Comber, 166Draft, 71Fly-frame, 178for filling yarn, 54for ring frames, 198for slashers, 237for twisters, 219for warp yarn, 52Harness, 50Loom, 250Mechanical, 347Ply-yarn, 35Yarn, 1
Cam looms, 256Campbell twill, 313Cam-shaft gears on looms.
Rule for finding, 256Cams on more than 2-har-
ness work, Setting, 256Rule to find throw ofharness, 247
Setting selvage, 257Shedding by, 245Timing cbmber, 170
Card clothing, 126-clothing calculations; 128clothing. Crown of, 128clothing, English counts
of, 132clothing, English methodof numbering, 131
clothing, Rule to findpoints per square footin, 129
Draft of, 135production, 136Revolving-top flat, 120slivers. Weights of cot-ton, 137
tooth. Crown of, 126tooth. Knee of, 126waste, 136
Carded warp yarns, Ruleto find standard break-ing weight of, 34
Carding, Objects of, 120Cards, Care of, 137Cotton, 120Management of, 141Setting, 138Weight and horsepower
of, 136Care of belts, 352of cards, 137of combers, 171of cotton-harness warpstop-motion, 290
of pickers, 119of shuttle. Position and,288
of steel-harness warpstop-inotion, 291
Carriage, Mule, 205Cassimere twill, 312Cellulose, 93
INDEX
Cellulose silk, 23Center draft, 307Chain draft, 264
drafts, 304Chains, Pegging harness,
264Building box, 269
Change gear, 362gears, Fly-frame, 183
Changing counts on mule,214
Check weaves, 323Circle, 342Pitch, 363Rule to find circumfer-ence and area of, 343
Circular pitch, 363Circumferential speed of
pulleys, 351Classification of cotton, 98Classifying cotton, 100Cloth, Average counts of,
58calculations, 48calculations. Short rules
for, 67Counts of, 48Cover on, 258measure, 337Rule to find averagecounts of, 58, 67
Rule to find weight of,in ounces per yard, 56
Rule to find yards perpound of, 56, 57
samples, Figuring partic-ulars from, 57
Slasher, 236Thin places in, 261Weight of, 56Weight of cotton, 48Weight of woolen, 49Weight of worsted, 49Width of, 57Yards per pound of, 57
Clothing, Card, 126cylinder and doffer, 132flats, 132Open-set, 131Plain-set, 131Points per square foot in
rib-set, 130
Clothing, Points per squarefoot in twill-set, 131
Rib-set, 128Twilled, 128
Cohoes system of number-ing woolen yarns, 25
Coiler head, 125Colored mixes. Calculation
of, 117Combed warp yarns. Rule
to find standard break-ing weight of, 35
Comber, 161calculations, 166cushion-plate settings, 168cylinders. Setting andtiming, 170
Double-nip, 163feed-roll setting, 168gauge, 168settings, 167Single-nip, 161timings, 169waste, 173waste. Percentage of, 174
Combers, Care of, 171Setting of, 167Timing of, 168
Combination weaves, 322Combing, 155Combs, Setting top, 171Common rolls, 142
rolls. Calculating draftof, 78
rolls. Drafting with, 72rolls. Weighting ofsingle-boss, 149
Compound levers, 266-sizing test, 19
Condenser, 109Cone, 345
or pyramid, Rui'e to findvolume of, 345
or pyramid. Rule to findvolume of frustum of,346
pick, 248Constant dividend, 363
factor, 362for builder change gearon mule. Rule to find,217 .
INDEX
Constant for twist on flyframes, Rule to find, 181
for twist on mule, Ruleto find, 209
for twist on ring frames,Rule to find, 200
of gearing. Rule to find,363
Rule to find draft, 88Constants, 88, 362for equivalent cottoncounts, 27
for finding loom produc-tion, 253
Twist, 28Contraction, 53in leno and lappet fab-
rics, 64Rule to estimate warp, 69Warp, 53
Corkscrew twills, 321weaves, 321
Cost of ply yarns. Rule tofind, 40
Cotton, 92Allan-seed, 95American, 94Benders. 95Brown Egyptian, 95cards, 120cards, Speed calculations
for, 133characteristics. Table of,96
classification, Govern-ment, 99
Classification of, 98Classifying, 100cloth. Weight of, 48designing, 302duck, Weight of, 49fiber. Measurements of,93
fiber. Strength of. 93fiber, Structure of, 92Grades of American, 98Gulf, or New Orleans, 94-harness warp stop-mo-
tion. Care of, 290Memphis, 95mill. Organization of, 294-mill planning, 294
Cotton mixing, 103mixing, Rule to findnumber of sectionsa 104
Oklahoma, 95Peelers, 95-roving numbering table,
13,
Sea-island, 94Specific gravity of, 93Texas, 95Uplands, 95warp yarn, Breakingweight of, 33
World's production of,101
weaving, 245yarn and roving, Tableof dividends for num-bering, 16
-yarn numbering table, 5-yarn preparation, 92-yarn preparation, Proc-esses and objects of,102
yarns. Table of lengthfor, 2
yarns. Table of weightfor, 2
Counter faller, 208Countershafts, 347Effect of, on speed, 351Rules to find diameter
of, 348Counts, 1Average, 45Constants for equivalentcotton, 27
Denier and dram equiva-lent, 23
Equivalent, 26of card clothing, English,
132of cloth, 48of cloth. Average, 58of cloth. Rule to findaverage, 67
of cotton yarn. Methodsof finding, 16
of filling, 61of filling. Rule to findaverage, 68
INDEX ISL
Counts of filling to preserveweight of cloth, Ruleto find, 67
of filling to preserveyards per pound. Ruleto find, 61
of warp yarn, 58of yarn on a beam. Rule
to find, 43of yarn to be folded withanother to produce agiven count. Rule tofind, 37
on mule, Changing, 214Rule to find average, 45Rule to find, when weightand length are given, 1
Short methods of findingequivalent, 27
Cover on cloth, 258Covering of top rolls, 142Cradle gauge, 168Crossed belt, Rule to find
length of, 356Crow twill. Filling-flush,
312twill. Warp-flush, 312
Crown of card clothing, 128of card tooth, 126
Cubic measure, 338Curved twills, 314Cushion-plate settings,
Comber, 168Cut mark, 323system of numberingwoolen yarns, 24
Weight of, 60Cutting, 322
Filling, 262picks, 329
Cycles of mangle gear.Rule to find, 365
Cylinder, 344and doffer, Clothing, 1325ule to find surface area
of, 344Rule to find volume of,345
Timing dobby, 267Cylinders, Setting and
timing comber, 170
DDead roll, 137weighting, 148
Delivery rolls, 73Denier, 17and dram equivalentcounts, 23
of raw silk yarns, Ruleto find, 21
system, Average yardsper pound, 20
_
-system conversion table,19
system of numbering silkyarns, 17
Dent, 51Dents per inch in reed>
Rule to find, 55Derivatives, Satin, 319Design, Elements of tex-
tile, 302Designing, Cotton, 302Diameter, 342Diameters of shafts. Rules
to find, 348of English and Americanstandard wire, 127
Diametral pitch, 364Diamond weaves, 316Dimensions of fly frames,
189of ring spinning frames,
196of twisters, 226
Distance between bearings.Table of, 349
between hangers, 349Dividend, Constant, 363Dividends for numbering
cotton yarn and roving,.Table of, 16
Dobbies, 262Double-index, 264Double-lift, 264Single-index, 264Single-lift, 264
Dobby cylinder, Timing,267
knives, Adiusting, 266Timing a, 265
Doff^er bonnet, 125Clothing cylinder and, 132
INDEX
Dofifer, Speed of, 135Double-boss rolls, 142
filling-fork arrangement,285
-index dobbies, 264-lift dobbies, 264-nip comber, 163satins, 318-section pickers, 109-threaded worms, 364
Doubling, 72, 90Draft, Angled, 308Break, 80calculations, 71Center, 307Chain, 264constant. Rule to find, 88Drawing-in, 50, 303gear, 183gear on mule, Rule to
find, 214gear. Rule to find, 87, 89,
184gears, 86Harness, 304Irregular point, 307Methods of finding, 74of card, 135of intermediate and fin-
isher pickers, 116of metallic rolls. Allow-ances made in calculat-ing production and, 83
of metallic rolls. Increasein, 86
Point, 307Rule to find, 78, 87, 88, 89,
91section, 309Skip, 308Straight, 306
Drafting, 71Objects of, 71with common rolls, 72
Drafts, Chain, 304Irregular reed, 62Resular point, 307Satin, 308Standard types of draw-ing-in, 306
Dram system of numberingsilk yarns, 21
Draw of mule, 207Drawing frames, 150frames, Gearing of, 153frames, Management ofl
155frames, Production of
154-in draft, SO, 303-in drafts. Standard type^]
of, 306 \-roll settings for Ameri'can cotton, 147
rolls, 142rolls. Setting of, 145
Draws in a cop, Rule tc|find number of, 217
Driven and driving pulleys. Rules for findingdiameters and revolutions of, 350
gear. Rule to find speecof. 361
gears. Driving and, 77Dry measure, 336twisters, 219
Dual function of straddlbug, 285
Duck, Weight of cotton, 4!
Early picking, 259Eccentricity of lay, 249Egyptian cotton. Brown, 9!Elements of textile design
302English counts of care
clothing, 132method of numberingcard clothing, 131
Ends, 48in cloth. Rule to find, 5;in pattern. Rule to find47
in warp, 60of each color, counts, oimaterial, in warp. Ruleto find number of, 61
on a beam. Rule to find43
Selvage, 52Entwining twill. Fancy
314
INDEX
Entwining twills, 313;qually-flush weaves, 310equivalent cotton counts,
Constants for, 27counts, 26counts, Denier and dram,23
counts. Short methods offinding, 27
Ivener motion, 110^xtra-filling spot weaves,
328-warp fabrics. Harnessand chain drafts for,327
-warp spot weaves, 325
F'actor. Constant, 362""ancy basket weaves, 320entwining twill, 314filling patterns, 65twills, 313warp patterns, 61warps, 46
"astenings. Belt, 353"eed-roll, Setting and tim-
ing, 170-roll setting, Coinber, 168-rolls, 72
"eeder. Automatic, 106^eeler filling-changing de-
vice, 283filling-changing mecha-nism, Setting of, 289
Shuttle, 277Feet of lum^ber. Rules to
find, 347Figuring particulars from
cloth samples, 57Fillet, 128Filleting, 128Rule to find length of, 133
Filling, 46-changing device. Feeler,
283-changing mechanism, 273-changing mechanism. Ad-justment of, 287
-changing mechanism.Setting of feeler, 289
Filling corkscrew weaves,321
Counts of, 61cutting, 262-flush Albert twill, 312-flush broken crow weave,
312-flush crow twill, 312-flush prunelle twill, 312-flush satin weaves, 317-flush weaves, 310-fork arrangement,Double, 285
Kinky, 262Knocking off, 261motion, 280patterns, Fancy, 65-rib weaves, 321Rule to find averagecounts of, 68
Rule to find weight of, 56spinning frames. Produc-tion of, 204
-spot weaves, 324stop-motion. Timing the,260
Wadding, 328Weight of, 56yarn, 46yarn, Calculations for, 54yarn. Rule to find hanks
of, 70yarn. Rule to find weight
of, 70yarn. Travelers for, 194
Finger gauge, 168Finisher pickers. Draft of
intermediate and, 116pickers, Intermediate and,
110Fixing Northrop looms, 287Flat strippings, 124Flats, Clothing, 132Speed of, 135
Floor space for cotton millmachinery. Table ofmachines and, 300
Fluid measure. Apotheca-ries', 336
Fly-frame bobbins, Rule tofind speed of. 181frame calculations, 178
INDEX
Fly-frame change gears, 183frame, Rule to find pro-duction of, 185
frames, 175frames. Dimensions of,
189frames. Production of,
186frames, Rule to find con-
stant for twist on, 181frames, Speed of, 188frames, Standard sizes
of, 189frames, Twist constants
for, 188Flying, Shuttles, 261Folded yarns of different
counts, 37yarns of the same counts.35
Frames, Fly, 175Drawing, 150
Front knife plate, 125rolls, 73
Frustum of pramid or cone,Rule to find volume of,346
GGauge box, 109Brush, 168Comber, 168Cradle, 168Finger, 168of spinning frames, 197Quadrant, 168Step, 168
Gear blank. Rule to finddiameter of, 364
Change, 362Draft, 183Lay, 183Rule to find take-upchange, 251
Taper, 183Tension. 183Traverse, 183Twist, 183
Gearing, 361of drawing frames, 153of measuring motion, 114of rolls, 75
Gears, Draft, 86Driving and driven, 77Mangle, 365
Grades of American cotton,98
Gravity spindle, 195Grinder, Traverse, 138Grinding, 137
rolls, 137Ground weave, 325Gulf, or New Orleans, cot-
ton, 94Gum, 22
HHangers, Distance be-
tween, 349Hank, 1
of roving. Rule to find,91
of roving. Rule to findaverage, 185
Hanks of filling yarn.Rule to find, 70
of warp yarn. Rule tofind. 70
per spindle on ringframes. Rule to find,202
Harness calculations, 50cams, Rule to find throw
of, 247chains. Pegging, 264and chain drafts for ex-tra-warp fabrics, 327
draft, 304Rule to find number ofheddles on, 50
Harnesses, 48Head shaft, 347Headstock, Mule, 205Heddles on a harness. Rule
to find number of, 50Hemp yarns, System of
numbering, 25Heptagon, 342Herring-bone stripes, 314Hexagon, 342Honeycomb weaves, 322Hopper, 278Horsepower of belt. Rule
to find, 357
INDEX
Horsepower of mules, 218transmitted by belts, 357transmitted by ropes,Rule to find, 359
Inside taper, 132Intermediate and finisher
pickers, 110and finisher pickers.Draft of, 116
Irregular basket weaves,320
point draft, 307reed drafts, 62
JJute yarns. System of num-
bering, 25K
Kinky filling, 262Knee of card tooth, 126Knife plate. Back, 123
plate. Front, 125Knive^ Adjusting dobby,
266Mote, 122
Knocking off filling, 261li
Lap, 108Lappet fabrics. Contrac-
tion in leno and, 64Laps, Weight of, 119Late picking, 259Lay, Eccentricity of, 249gear, 183gear. Rule to find, 185
Leather detaching roll.Setting and timing, 170
Left-hand twist, 28Length of belts, 356
of open belt. Rule tofind, 356
of staple, lOOof warp. Rule to find, 44of warp that can beplaced on a beam. Ruleto find, 44
of yarn, Rule to find,when weight and countsare known, 2
Lengths of yarns. Stand-ard, 24
Leno and lappet fabrics.Contraction in, 64
Let-off motions, 245Leveling the boxes, 272Lever, Rule to find weights
supported by, 367weighting, 148
Levers, 366Licker bonnet, 122screen, 122Speed of, 135
Licking, 119Line, Pitch, 363
shafts, 347shafts, Rules to finddiameter of, 348
Linear measure, 336Linen yarns. System of
numbering, 24Liquid measure, 335Little Falls system cf
numbering woolenyarns, 25
Long measure, 336Loom beams, 42calculations, 250production, Constants for
finding, 253Rule to find production
of, 252The Northrop, 273
Looms, Automatic, 273Box, 267Cam, 256Plain, 245Short method of findingproduction of, 253
Loose-boss rolls, 142Lug strap, Adjusting the,
259Lumber, Mensuration of,
347Rules to find feet of, 347
MMachines and floor space
for cotton mill ma-chinery. Table of, 300
Main shaft. Rules to finddiameter of, 348
INDEX
Management of cards, 141of drawing frames, 155
Mangle gear, Rule to findcycles of, 365
gears, 365Mayo twill, 313Measure, Angular, 338Apothecaries' fluid, 336Cloth, 337Cubic, 338 .Dry, 336Linear, or long, 336Liquid, 335Square, 337Surveyor's, 337
Measuring motion, 112motion, Gearing of, 114
Measurements of cottonfiber, 93
Measures, Miscellaneous,339
of time, 338Weights and, 334
Mechanical calculations,347
Mechanism, Filling-chang-ing, 273
Memphis cotton, 95Mensuration, 339of lumber, 347
Metallic rolls, 82, 144rolls, Advantages of, 145rolls. Allowances madein calculating produc-tion and draft of, 83
rolls. Increase in draftof, 86
rolls. Weighting ofsingle-boss, 149
Metric system of yarnnumbering, 25
system, Rule to convertstandard counts to, 26
system. Rule to convert,to standard counts, 26
Mixes, Calculation of col-ored, 117
Mixing, Cotton, 103Mixings, Size, 243Money, Table of United
States, 334Mote knives, 122
Motion, Adjusting the pro-tector, 260
Evener, 110Filling, 280Measuring, 112Parallel, 248Timing the picking, 259
Motions, Let-off, 245Selvage, 256Take-up, 245Timing of box, 272
Mule carriage, 205Draw of, 207headstock, 205Rule to find twist on, 208spinning, 205Stretch of, 207
Mules, Horsepower of, 218Production of, 215
NNeedle-ground wire, 127New Hampshire system of
numbering woolenyarns, 25
New Orleans cotton, Gulf,or, 94
Nippers, Setting and tim-ing, 171
Nogg, 128Northrop loom, 273looms. Fixing, 287looms,
_Shuttle for, 278
Numbering ply yarns, 35Numbers, Average, 45
OOctagon, 342Off color of cotton, 100Oklahoma cotton, 95Open-set clothing, 131Opener, 107Organization of cotton mill,
294Organize, 17
Parallel motion, 248Parallelogram, Rule to find
area of, 341Pattern of warp, 47Rule to find ends in, 47
INDEX XV
Patterns, Fancy filling, 65Fancy warp, 61
Peelers cotton, 95Pegging harness chains, 264plan, 305
Pentagon, 342Percentage of comber
waste, 174of size, 54
Perimeter, 342Pick, Bat-wing, 248Cone, 248Shoe, 248Sley and, 57
Picker, Breaker, 108Pickers, Care of, 119Draft of intermediate and
finisher, 116Double section, 109Intermediate and fin-isher, 110
Single section, 109Starting, 260
Picking, 245, 247Early, 259Late, 259motion. Timing the, 259
Picks, 48Cutting, 329
Pique weaves, 328Piques and Bedford cords,
328^
Pitch circle, 363Circular, 363Diametra,], 364line, 363
Plain looms, 245selvage motion, 256-set cJothing, 131weave, 302
Plan, Pegging, 305Planning, Cotton-mill, 294Plow-ground wire, 127Ply-yarn calculations, 35yarns, 35yarns composed of morethan two threads, Z7
yarns, Cost of, 40yarns, Numbering, 35yarns of different counts,Z7
Ply yarns of different ma-terials, 41
yarns of spun silk, 40yarns of the same counts,35
yarns, Rule to find costof, 40
Point draft, 307draft. Irregular, 307drafts. Regular, 307
Pointed twills, 314Points per square foot in
rib-set clothing, 130per square foot in twill-
set clothing, 131Polygon, Rule to find area
of regular, 342Position and care of
shuttle, 288of warp line, 258
Prism, Rule to find sur-face area of, 343
Rule to find volume of,344
Processes and objects ofcotton yarn preparation,102
Production, Card, 136Loom, 254of beam warpers, 233of drawing frames, 154of filling spinning frames,204
of fly frame. Rule to' find, 185of fly frames, 186of loom. Rule to find, 252of looms, Short method
of finding, 253of mule. Rule to find, 212of mules, 215of ribbon-laix machine,
160of single-nip comber, 165of slashers, 240of sliyer-lap machine, 158of spinning frames, Rule
to find, 203of spoolers, 229of twisters, 224of twisters. Rule to find,
223
INDEX
Production of warp spin-ning frames, 203
Table of loom, 254Protector motion, Adjust-
ing the, 260Prunelle twill, 310
twill. Filling-flush, 312twill. Warp-flush, 312
Pyramid or cone, Rule tofind volume, 345
or cone. Rule to findvolume of frustum of,346
Pulleys, Driven and driv-ing, 350
Quadrant gauge, 168Quadrilaterals, 340Quarter-turn belts, 354
RRaw-silk yarns, Rule to
find denier, yards, orweight of, 21
-silk yarns. System ofnumbering, 17
Recipe for top-roll varnish,144
Rectangle, 340Reed, 48, 60
drafts, Irregular, 62Rule to find dents perinch in, 55
Sley of, 51Width at, 54Width in, 60
Reeds, 51Reel. Wrap, 4Regular point drafts, 307
twills, 310twills. Rule for making,310
twist, 28Regulating the shed, 258Repeat of weave, 303Representation of weave,
303Resultant counts of three
or more sinele yarns,Rule to find, 38
Resultant counts whenmore than one end ofthe different counts arefolded, Rule to find, 38
counts when two yarnsof different numbersare folded. Rule to find,39
Revolving-top flat card, 120Rhomboid, 340Rhombus, 340Rib-set clothing, 128
-set clothing, Points persquare foot in, 130
Rib weaves, 320Ribbon-lap machine, 156-lap machine. Production
of, 160Ribs, 51Right-hand twist, 28Rim pulley on mule, Rule
to find diameter of, 210Ring frames, Allowances
on calculated produc-tion of, 202
frames. Calculations for,198
frames. Rule_
to findhanks per spindle on,202
spinning, 190spinning frames, Dimen-sions of, 196
twister, 219Roll, Dead, 137,Setting and timingleather detaching, 170
Setting steel detaching,170
Rolls, Advantages of me-tallic, 145
Back, or feed, 72Calculating draft of com-mon, 78
Common, 142Covering of top, 142Delivery, or front, 7ZDouble-boss, 142Drafting with common, 72Drawing, 142Gearing of, 75Grinding, 137
INDEX
Rolls, Loose-boss, 142Metallic, 82, 144Scouring, 149Setting of drawing, 145Shell, 142Single-boss, 142Solid-boss, 142Varnishing of top, 144Weighting of single-boss,
149Weighting of top, 147
Rope transmission, 358Ropes, Rule to find horse-
power transmitted by,359
Roving, 2Rule to find averagehank of, 185
Rule to find hank of, 91Rule to find twist in,- 180Size of, 12Sizing, 188Sizing yarn and, 2Table of dividends fornumbering cotton yarnand, 16
Rule for finding cam-shaftgears on looms, 256
for making regular twills,310
to convert metric systemcounts to standard sys-tem, 26
to convert silk yarnsnumbered by deniersystem to equivalentcounts in dram system,23
to convert silk yarnsnumbered by dram sys-tem to denier system,23
to convert standard-sys-tem counts to metricsystem, 26
to estimate warp con-traction, 69
to find area of circle, 343to find area of parallelo-gram, 341
to find area of regularpolygon, 342
Rule to find area of trape-zium, 341
to find area of trapezoid,341
to find average counts, 45to find average counts of
cloth, 58, 67to find average counts of
filling, 68to find average hank ofroving, 185
to find average numberof yarn being spun, 205
to find builder gear onmule, 216
to find circumference ofcircle, 343
to find constant forbuilder change gear on.mule, 217
to find constant for twiston fly frames, 181
to find constant for twiston mule, 209
to find constant for twiston ring frames, 200
to find constant of gear-ing, 363
to find constant of take-up motion, 252
to find cost of ply yarns,40
to find counts of fillingto preserve weight ofcloth, 67
to find counts of fillingto preserve yards perpound, 61
to find cpunts of onesystem equivalent tothat of another, 26
to find counts of yarn ona beam, 43
to find counts of yarn tobe folded with anotherto produce a givencount, 39
to find counts whenweight and length aregiven, 1
to find cycles of manglegear, 365
INDEX
Rule to find diameter ofcountershafts, 348
to find diameter of drivenpulley, 350
to find diameter of driv-ing pulley, 350
to find diameter of gearblank, 364
to find diameter of lineshafts, 348
to find diameter of mainshaft, 348
to find diameter of rimpulley on mule, 210
to find denier of raw-silkyarns, 21
to find dents per inch inreed, 55
to find draft, 78, 87, 88,89, 91
to find draft constant, 88to find draft gear, 87, 89,
184to find draft gear onmule, 214
to find dramage of thrownsilk yarns, 22
to find ends in cloth, 53to find ends in pattern,
47to find ends on a beam, 43to find feet of lumber,
347to find hank of roving, 91to find hanks of filling
yarn, 70to find hanks of warpyarn, 70
to find hanks per spindleon ring frames, 202
to find horsepower ofbelt, 357
to find horsepower trans-mitted by ropes, 359
to find lay gear, 185to find length of crossed
belt, 356to find length of filleting,
133to find length of one side
of square equal in areato given circle, 343
Rule to find length of openbelt, 356
to find length of warp, 44to find length of warpthat can be placed on abeam, 44
to find length of yarnwhen weight and countsare known, 2
to find number of drawsin a cop, 217
to find number of ends ofeach color, counts, ormaterial in warp, 61
to find number of heddleson a harness, 50
to find_
number of sec-tions in a cotton mix-ing, 104
_
to find points per squarefoot in card clothing,129
to find production of flyframe, 185
to find production ofloom, 252
to find production ofmule, 212
to find production ofspinning frames, 203
to find production oftwisters, 223
to find required width ofbelt. 357
to find resultant countsof three or more singleyarns, 38
to find resultant countswhen more than oneend of the differentcounts are folded, 38
to find resultant countswhen two yarns of dif-ferent numbers arefolded, 37
to find revolutions ofdriven pulley, 350
to find revolutions ofdriving pulley, 350
to find speed gear onmule, 210
INDEX
iule to find speed ofdriven gear, 361
to find speed of drivenpulley, 351
to find speed of fly-framebobbins, 181
to find speed of traveler,199
to find speed of worm-gear, 364
to find standard breakingweight of carded warpyarns, 34
to find standard breakingweight of combed warpyarns, 35
to find surface area ofcylinder, 344
to find surface area ofprism, 343
to find surface area ofsphere, 346
to find surface velocityof pulley, 351
to find take-up changegear, 251
to find teeth on gear, 364to find tension gear, 184to find throw of harnesscams, 247
to find traverse gear ofspooler, 229
to find traverse ofspoolers, 230
to find twist gear, 184to find twist gear ^nring frames, 200
to find twist in roving,180
to find twist on mule, 208to find twist on ringframes, 20O
to find twist on spinningframe, 199
to find twist to be in-serted in yarns, 28
to find volume of cone orpyramid, 345
to find volume of cylin-der, 345
to find volume of frustumof pyramid or cone, 346
Rule to find volume ofprism, 344
to find volume of sphere,346
to find weight of cloth, 56to find weight of cloth inounces per yard, 56
to find weight of filling,56
to find weight of fillingyarn, 70
to find weight of raw-silk yarns, 21
to find weight of singleyarns in ply yarn, 39
to find weight of sliver,91
to find weight of thrown-silk yarns, 22
to find weight of warpyarn, 70
to find weight of warpyarn per cut, 53
to find weigTit of yarn ona beam, 44
to find weight of yarnwhen length and countsare known, 2
to find weight supportedby lever, 367
to find width of warp inreed, 55
to find yards per poundof cloth, 56, 57
to find yards per poundof raw-silk yarns, 21
to find yards per poundof thrown-silk yarns, 22
Rules for cloth calcula-tions, Short, 67
to find area of triangle,340
Run system of numberingwoolen yarns, 24
Samples, Figuring particu-lars from cloth, 57
Satin and miscellaneousweaves, 317
derivatives, 319drafts, 308
INDEX
Satin weaves. Filling-flush,317
weaves, Warp-flush, 317Satins, Double, 318
Five-, 6-, 7-, 8-, 9-, 10-,11-, and 12-end, 318
Schappe silk yarns, 23Scouring rolls, 149Screen, Licker, 122Sea-island cotton, 94Section draft, 309Self weighting, 147Selvage cams, Setting, 257ends, 52motion, Plain, 256motion, Tape, 257motions, 256
Sericin, 22Setting and timing comber
cylinders, 170and timing feed-roll, 170and timing leather de-taching roll, 170
and timing nippers, 171and timing Whitin high-speed comber, 169
cams on more than 2-harness work, 256
cards, 138Comber feed- roll, 168of combers, 167of drawing rolls, 145of feeler filling-changingmechanism, 289
selvage cams, 257steel detaching roll, 170top combs, 171
Settings, Comber, 167Comber cushion-plate, 168Spooler, 228
Shafts and shafting, 347Shed, 48, 245Regulating the, 258
Shedding by cams, 245Timing the, 258
Shell rolls, 142Shoe pick, 248Short methods of finding
equivalent counts, 27rule to find weight of
single yarns in plyyarn, 40
Short rules for cloth calcu-lations, 67
Shuttle feeler, 277-feeler thread cutter, 284-feeler thread cutter. Ad-justing, 290
for Northrop looms, 278Position and care of, 288
Shuttles flying, 261Side-ground wire, 127Silk, Artificial, 23Cellulose, 23Ply yarns of spun, 40yarns, 17yarns, Denier system ofnumbering, 17
yarns. Dram system ofnumbering, 21
yarns, Schappe, 23yarns. Sizing raw, 17yarns. Spun, 17yarns, System of num-bering raw, 17
yarns. Thrown, 17Single-boss rolls, 142-end stripes, 323-index dobbies, 264-lift dobbies, 264-nip comber, 161-nip comber, Production
of, 165-section pickers, 109-threaded worms, 364yarns, 1
Size, 240Allowance for, 54mixings, 243of roving, 12Percentage of, 54
Sizes of bobbins, 195of spools, 227of travelers, 192
Sizing, 3materials, Weight of, 243raw silk yarns, 17roving, 188test. Compound-, 19yarn and roving, 2
Skein, 3Skip drafts, 308twills, 314
Slasher, 234
INDEX
Slasher cloth, 236^
Slashers, Calculations for,237
Production of, 240Slashing, 234Objects of, 234
Sley, 48and pick, 57of reed, 51
Sliver-lap machine, 156-lap machine, Production
of, 158Rule to find weight of, 91
Slivers, Weights of cotton-card, 137
Slubber, 175Solid-boss rolls, 142Specific gravity of cotton,
93Speed calculations for cot-
ton cards, 133Effect of countershaftson, 351
gear on mule. Rule tofind, 210
of doffer, 135of driven gear, Rule to
find, 361of flats, 135of fly-frame bobbins,Rule to find, 181
of fly frames, 188of licker, 135of pulleys. Circumferen-
tial, 351of traveler. Rule to find,
199of worm-gear. Rule to
find, 364Sphere, Rule to find sur-
face area and volumeof, 346
Spindle, Gravity, 195spring, 262
Spindles, 195Spinnerets, 24Spinning frame, Rule to
find twist on, 199frames. Gauge of, 197frames, Rule to find pro-duction of, 203
Mule, 205
Spinning, Ring, 190Splitting, 119Spooler, Rule to find tra-
verse gear of, 229settings, 228
_
.
Spoolers, Production of,229
Rule to find traverse of,230
Spooling, 226Spools, Sizes of, 227Spot weaves, 324weaves. Extra-filling, 328weaves. Extra-warp, 325
Square, 340equal in area to given
circle, Rule to findlength of one side of,343
measure, 337Spring, Spindle, 262Spun silk. Ply yarns of,
40silk yarns, 17
Standard lengths of yarns,.24
sizes of fly frames, 189twills, 312types of drawing-indrafts, 306
Staple, 100Length of, 100Strength of, 100
Starting pickers, 360Steel detaching roll. Set-
ting, 170-harness warp stop-mo-
tion. Care of, 291gauge, 168
Stop-motioii, Timing thefilling, 260
-motions. Automatic, 245-motions, Warp, 286
Straddle bug. Dual func-tion of, 285
Straight draft, 306Strength of cotton fiber,
93of staple, 100
Stretch of mule, 207Stripe weaves, 322Stripes, Herring-bone, 314
INDEX
Stripes, Single-end, 323Stripping, 137Strippings, Flat, 124Structure of cotton fiber, 92Surveyor's measure, 337
TTable, Cotton-roving num-
bering, 13Cotton-yarn numbering, 5Denier system conver-sion, 19
of allowances on calcu-lated production ofring frames, 202
of angular measure, 338of apothecaries' fluidmeasure, 336
of apothecaries' weight,335
of avoirdupois weight, 334of cloth measure, 337of comber settiiigs, 167of comber timings, 169of constants for findingloom production, 253
of cotton characteristics,96
of cubic measure, 338of dimensions of ringspinning frames, 196
of dimensions of twist-ers, 226
of distance between bear-ings, 349
of dividends for number-ing cotton yarn androving, 16
of dry measure, 336of fluid measure, 336of length for cottonyarns, 2
of linear measure, 336of liquid measure, 335of long measure, 336of loom production, 254of machines and floor
space for cotton millmachinery, 300
of measures of time, 338of miscellaneous mea-
sures, 339
Table of production ofbeam warpers, 223
of production of drawingframes, 154
of production of fillingspinning frames, 204
of production of flyframes, 186
of production of mules,215
of production of ribbon-lap machine, 160
of production of single-nip comber, 165
of production of sliver-lap machine, 158
of production of spoolers,229
of production of twisters,224
of production of warpspinning frames, 203
of sizes of bobbins, 195of sizes of spools, 227of sizes of travelers, 192of square measure, 337of standard sizes of flyframes, 189
of surveyor's measure,337
of travelers for fillingyarn, 194
of travelers for warpyarn, 193
of troy weight, 335of twist constants for flyframes, 188
of United States money,334
of weight for cottonyarns, 2
of weights of cotton cardslivers, 137
of weight of sizing ma-terials, 243
Twist, 29Tail-ends, 132Take-up change gear. Rule
to find, 251-up motion, Rule to findconstant of, 252
-up motions, 245-
INDEX
Tape selvage motion, 257Taper gear, 183 'Inside, 132
Teeth on gear, Rule tofind number of, 364
Temples, 245Tension gear, 183gear, Rule to find, 184
Tester; Yarn, 33Texas cotton, 95Textile design, Elements
of 302Thin places in cloth, 261Thread cutter, Adjusting
shuttle-feeler, 290cutter. Shuttle-feeler, 284
Three-harness twill, 310Thrown-silk yarns, 17
-silk yarns, Rule to finddramage of, 22
-silk yarns, Rule to findweight of, 22
Time, Measures of, 338Timing a dobby, 265comber cams, 170dobby cylinder, 267of box motions, 272of combers, 168the filling stop-motion,260
the picking motion, 259the shedding, 258
Timings, Comber, 169Tinges, 100Top combs. Setting, 171-ground wire, 127-roll varnish. Recipe for,
144rolls, Covering of, 142rolls, Weighting of, 147
Tops 128Tram, 17Transmission, Rope, 358Trapezium, Rule to find
area of. 341Trapezoid, Rule to find
area of, 341Traveler, Rule to find
speed of, 199Travelers, 193for filling yarn, 194for warp yarn, 193
Travelers, Sizes of, 192Traverse gear, 183gear of spooler, Rule to
find,, 229grinder, 138of spoolers, Rule to find,
230Triangle, Rules to find
area of, 340Troy weight, 335Twill angle, Method of
finding, 311Campbell, 313Cassimere, 312Fancy entwining, 314Mayo, 313Prunelle, 310-set clothing. Points persquare foot in, 131
Three-harness, 310Venetian, 313
Twilled basket weaves, 320clothing, 128weaves, 309
Twills, Angle of, 310Corkscrew, 321Curved, 314Entwining, 313Fancy, 313Pointed, 314Regular, 310Skip, 314Standard, 312
Twist, 188constants, 28constants for fly frames,
188gear, 183gear on ring frames.Rule to find, 200
gear. Rule to find, 184in roving. Rule to find,_
180in yarns, 28Left-hand, 28on mule, Rule to find, 208on mule. Rule to findconstant for, 209
on ring frames, Rule tofind. 200
on ring frames. Rule tofind constant for, 200
INDEX
Twist on spinning frame,Rule to find, 199
Regular, 28Right-hand, 28table, 29to be inserted in yarns,Rule to find, 28
Twister, Ring, 219Twisters, Calculations for,
219Dimensions of, 226Dry, 219Production of, 224Rule to find production
of, 223Wet, 219
Twisting, 219Types of drawing-in drafts,
Standard, 306U
United States money.Table of, 334
Uplands cotton, 95V
Varnishing of top rolls. 144Velocity of pulley. Rule
to find surface, 351Venetian twill, 313Viscose, 24
WWadding filling, 328Warp, 46contraction, 53contraction. Rule to es-timate, 69
corkscrew weaves, 321Ends in, 60-flush Albert twill, 312-flush broken crowweave, 313
-flush crow twill, 312-flush prunelle twill, 312-flush satin weaves, 317-flush weaves, 310in reed. Rule to findwidth of, 55
line, Position of, 258Pattern of, 47patterns. Fancy, 61preparation, 226
Warp-rib weave, 320Rule to find length of, 44spinning frames, Produc-tion of, 203
-spot weaves, 324stop-motion, Care of cot-ton-harness, 290
stop-motion, Care ofsteel-harness, 291
stop-motions, 286stop-motions, Generalcare of, 292
that can be placed on abeam, Rule to findlength of, 44
yarn, 46yarn, Breaking weight
of cotton, diZyarn, Calculations for, 52yarn, Counts of, 58yarn per cut. Rule tofind weight of, 53
yarn, Rule to find hanksof, 70
yarn. Rule to find weightof, 70
yarn. Travelers for, 193yarn. Weight of, 60yarns. Average breakingweight of American cot-
ton, 34Warper, 230Warping, Beam, 230Warps, Fancy, 46Waste, Card, 136Comber, 173
Weave, Ground, 325Plain, 302Repeat of, 303Representation of, 303
Weaves, Basket, 319Bedford cord, 332Check, mCombination, 322Corkscrew, 321Diamond, 316Equally-flush, 310Filling-corkscrew, 321Filling-flush, 310Filling-rib, Z2lFilling-spot, 324Honeycomb, 322
INDEX
Weaves, Pique, 328Rib, 320Satin and miscellaneous,
317Spot, 324Stripe, 322Twilled, 309Warp-corkscrew, 321Warp-flush, 310Warp-rib, 320Warp-spot, 324
Weaving, Cotton, 245Weight and horsepower of
cards, 136Apothecaries', 335Avoirdupois, 334of cloth, 56of cloth, Rule to find, 56of cloth, Rule to findcounts of filling to pre-serve, 67
of cotton cloth, 48of cotton duck, 49of cut, 60of filling, Rule to find, 56of filling yarn, Rule to
find, 70of laps, 119of single yarns in plyyarn, Rule to find, 39,40_
of sizing materials, 243of sliver. Rule to find, 91of warp yarn, 60of warp yarn per cut.Rule to find, 53
of warp yarn, Rule tofind, 70
of woolen cloth, 49of worsted cloth, 49of yarn on a beam. Rule
to find, 44of yarn. Rule to find,when length and countsare known, 2
supported by lever. Ruleto find, 367
Troy, 335Weighting of single-boss
common rolls, 149of single-boss metallic
rolls, 149
Weighting of top rolls, 147Weights and measures, 334
of cotton card slivers, 137Wet twisters, 219Whitin high-speed comber.
Setting and timing, 169Width at reed, 54
in reed, 60of belt. Rule to find re-quired, 357
of cloth, 57of warp in reed, Rule to
find, 55Winding faller, 208Wire, Diameters of Eng-
lish and Americanstandard, 127
Needle-ground, 127Plow-ground, 127Side-ground, 127Top-ground, 127
Woolen cloth. Weight of,49
yarns, Amsterdam sys-tem of numbering, 25
yarns, Cohoes system ofnumbering, -25
yarns, Cut system ofnumbering, 24
yarns. Little Falls sys-tem of numbering, 25
yarns, New Hampshiresystem of numbering,25
yarns, Run system ofnumbering, 24
World's production of cot-ton, 101
Worm-gear, Rule to findspeed of, 364
Worms and worm-gears,364
Worsted cloth. Weight of,49
Wrap reel, 4
Yards per pound of cloth,Rule to find, 56, 57
per pound of raw-silkyarns. Rule to find, 21
INDEX
Yards per pound of thrown-silk yarns. Rule to find,22
per pound, Rule to findcounts of filling to pre-serve, 61
Yarn, 2and roving, Sizing, 2and roving. Table ofdividends for number-ing cotton, 16
being spun. Rule to findaverage number of, 205
Breaking weight of cot-ton warp, 33
calculations, 1Calculations for filling, 54Calculations for warp, 52Counts' of warp, 58Filling, 46Methods of finding counts
of cotton, 16numbering, Metric sys-tem of, 25
-numbering systems, 24on a beam, Rule to findcounts of, 43
on a beam, Rule to findweight of, 44
tester, 33Warp. 46Weight of warp, 60
Yarns, Amsterdam systemof numbering woolen, 25
Average breaking weightof American cottonwarp, 34
Beamed, 42Cabled, 219Cohoes system of num-bering woolen, 25
composed of more thantwo threads. Ply, 37
Cost of ply, 40Cut system of number-ing woolen, 24
Denier system of num-bering silk, 17
Dram system of number-ing silk, 21
Little Falls system ofnumbering woolen, 25
Yarns, New Hampshire sys-tem of numberingwoolen, 25
Numbering ply, 35of different counts.Folded, 37
of different counts, Ply,37
of different materials.Ply, 41
of the same counts.Folded, 35
of the same counts. Ply,35
Ply, 35Rule to find denier ofraw-silk, 21
Rule to find, dramage ofthrown-silk, 22
Rule to find standardbreaking weight ofcarded warp, 34
Rule to find standardbreaking weight ofcombed warp, 35
Rule to find weight ofraw-silk, 21
Rule to find weight ofthrown-silk, 22
Rule to find yards perpound of raw-silk, 21
Rule to find yards perpound of thrown-silk, 22
Run system of number-ing woolen, 24
Schappe silk, 23Silk, 17Single, 1Sizing raw-silk, 17Spun-silk, 17Standard lengths of, 24System of numberinghemp, 25
System of numberingjute, 25
System of numberinglinen, 24
System of numberingraw-silk. 17
Thrown-silk, l7Twist in, 28
TheCotton Textile Worker's
Handbook
YARN CALCULATIONS
SINGLE YARNSThe word counts, when used in connection with yam, refers
to the number, or size, of a yam as determined by the relationthat exists between the length and the weight of a given quan-tity of that yarn. Thus, in the almost universally-adoptedsystem of numbering cotton yam, the counts of any given yamare determined by the number of times that a standard lengthof 840 yd., known as a hank, is contained in the number of yardsof that yarn required to weigh 1 lb. The length of the hank,840 yd., is always constant; for instance, a cotton yarn may beof fine, medium, or coarse counts, but a hank of that yarnalways contains 840 yd.The method of numbering is that of calling a yam that con-
tains 1 hank, or 840 yd., in 1 lb. a No. 1 yarn. If the yarncontains 2 hanks, or 1,680 yd., in 1 lb., it is known as a No. 2yarn; if it contains 3 hanks, or 2,520 yd., in 1 lb., it is known asa, No. 3 yarn. Thus the number of hanks that it takes to weigh1 lb. determines the counts of the yam.The counts of a yam are generally indicated by placing a
letter 5 after the figure representing the number of the yam.Thus, 26s shows the counts of a yam and indicates that theyam contains 26 hanks (26X840 yd.) in 1 lb.
Rule.To find the counts of a yarn when the length and weightare given, divide the total length of yarn, expressed in yards,by the. weight, expressed in pounds, times the standard length.
2 YARN CALCULATIONS
Example.If 168,000 yd. of yam weighs 5 lb., what arethe counts?
Solution.
168,000 (length of yarn, in yards)= 40s, counts
5 (weight, in pounds) X 840 (standard)Rule.
To find the weight of yarn when the length and countsare known, divide the length, in yards, by the counts times thestandard length.Example.^What is the weight of 42,000 yd. of liumber 5s
yam?42,000 (length, in yards)
Solution. = 10 lb.(5 counts) X 840(standard)
Rule. To find the length of yarn when the weight and countsare known, multiply the weight, in pounds, counts, and standardlength together.
Example.What is the length of yam contained in a bundlethat weighs 8 lb., the counts of the yam being 26s?
Solution. 8 (weight, in lb.) X 26 (counts) X 840 (standard)= 174,720 yd.In yarn calculations it is frequently of advantage to sub-
divide the standard length of the hank, 840 yd., and the stand-ard weight of 1 lb. Hence, two tables are used, as follows:
Table of Length1 yards (yd.) = 1 thread, or circtimference of wrap reel
120 yards = 80 threads = 1 skein, or lea840 yards = 560 threads = 7 skeins, or leas= 1 hank
Table of Weight27.34 grains (gr.) = 1 dram (dr.)
437.5 grains = 16 drams = 1 ounce (oz.)7,000 grains = 256 drams = 16 ounces = 1 pound (lb.)
SIZING YARN AND ROVINGA. yarn is a thread composed of fibers uniformly disposed
throughout its structure and having a certain amount of twistfor the purpose of enhancing its strength. Roving, however,although its size is determined in a similar manner to that ofyam, is a term used to designate a loosely-twisted strand of
YARN CALCULATIONS 3
fibers, the latter lying more or less parallel with each other,in which form the cotton is placed at various processes previousto the actual spinning of the yam. In order that the yam androving may be kept of the correct size, it is generally the customto weigh a certain length of the product of each machine, atleast once a day, and by this means ascertain whether theroving or yam is being kept at the required weight. Thisprocess is known as sizing, and is a matter that should alwaysbe carefully attended to.From the rules and explanations previously given it will be
plain that if 840 yd. (1 hank) were always the length weighed,in order to learn the counts of the yam, it would simply be
Fig. 1
necessary to divide the weight, expressed in pounds, into 1 lb.,or if expressed in grains, into 7,000 (the number of grains in1 lb.). It will readily be seen that to measure ofi 840 yd. ofyam would not only require considerable time, but would alsoproduce an unnecessary waste of material. To overcomethese difficulties, when sizing yam, it is customary to measureoff one skein (120 yd.) or one-seventh of 840 yd.; to weigh thisamount; and divide its weight in grains into one-seventh of7,000, or 1,000. The result obtained in this manner will be thesame as if 840 yd. were taken and the weight, in grains, dividedInto 7,000.
4J YARN CALCULATIONS
When sizing yarns, a wrap reel is used to measure the yarn.As its name indicates, this instrument consists of a reel, gen-erally 1| yd. in circumference. The yam is wound on this reeland a finger indicates on a disk the number of yards reeled.Fig. 1 shows an ordinary type of wrap reel, and Fig. 2 showsyam and roving scales. These scales are suitable for weighingby tenths of grains.Example. 120 yd. of yam is reeled and found to weigh
40 gr.; vihat are the counts?Solution. 1,000^40= 25s
Fig. 2
The size of cotton roving is determined in a similar mannerand indicated on the same basis as is the size of cotton yarn,although, when sizing roving, a shorter length is used. It iscustomary in this case to measure off one-seventieth of 840 yd.,or 12 yd., and divide the weight, in grains, of this length ofroving into one-seventieth of 7,000, or 100.
Ex.'^MPLE.- 12 yd. of roving is found to weigh 20 gr.; whatare the counts?
Solution. 100 -=- 20 = 5-hank rovingTo avoid calculation when sizing yarns, a table showing the
weight by grains and tenths of grains of 120 yd., or 1 skein, ofyam is ordinarily employed. The accompanying cotton-yamnumbering table is a well-arranged and complete table for thispurpose.
YARN CALCULATIONS
COTTON-YARN NUMBERING TABLE
Wt.inGr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
Wt.inGr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
Wt.inGr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
Wt.in Gr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
Wt.inGr.
10 YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
Wt.inGr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
n
Wt.inGr.
12 YARN CALCULATIONSTabi-e(Continued)
Wt.inGr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
COTTON-ROVING NUMBERING TABLE
13
Wt.inGr.
14 YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
Wt.inGr.
YARN CALCULATIONS
Table(Continued)
15
Wt.inGr.
16 YARN CALCULATIONS
If other than 120 yd. is weighed in the case of yam or 12 yd.in the case of roving, the preceding tables are not appUcable.The following table of dividends for numbering cottonyam and roving, however, shows various numbers that areused as dividends when various lengths of yam or roving, areweighed. For instance, the weight in grains of 30 yd. of yarnor roving divided into 250 gives as a quotient the counts of theyarn or hank of the roving.
TABLE OF DIVIDENDS FOR NUMBERING COTTONYARN AND ROVING
YARN CALCULATIONS 17
SILK YARNSThe use, in cotton mills, of silk yarns in connection
with cotton yarns in the production of high-grade andfancy fabrics is constantly increasing. These yarns fre-quently are used for filling in fabrics woven with combedand mercerized cotton warps, such as fine shirtings. Inaddition, silk yarns are used in many cotton fabrics asornamental, or figuring, threads in both warp and filling.
Several methods of designating the size, or counts, ofsilk yarns are employed in the United States. Raw silk,as imported into this country, is numbered in accordancewith the so-called "denier" system. Thrown silks, that is,silk yarns prepared by the reeling, doubling, twisting,etc. of raw silk, are prepared in various ways for manydifferent purposes. Those intended for warp yarn areknown as organzine; those to be used as filling yarn arecalled tram. Thrown silks usually are designated accord-ing to size by a method known as the "dram" system,but sometimes the denier system is employed. Spun silkyarns, produced by carding and spinning processes fromwaste silk, and pierced, tangled, broken, and inferiorcocoons of the silk worm, are numbered in a mannerexactly similar to that employed in the case of cottonyarns. That is, the size of these yarns is indicated bythe number of hanks, each 840 yds. in length, that arerequired to weigh 1 lb.The Denier System.The denier system of designating
the size, or counts, of raw silks is based upon a skein ofyarn having a fixed length of 450 meters, and upon astandard weight of 5 centigrams. The skein of yarn forweighing usually is wound upon a reel having a cir-cumferential dimension of 112J centimeters, thus requir-ing 400 revolutions of the reel to produce a skein of yarncontaining the required length of 450 meters. If thisskein of yarn weighed 5 centigrams (.05 gram) it wouldbe a 1-denier silk; if the skein weighed 10 centigrams,the yarn would be a 2-denier silk, etc. Practically, ofcourse, a silk yarn as fine as 1 denier in size is impos-
18 YARN CALCULATIONSsible, since the individual filaments of silk as unwoundfrom the cocoon of the silkworm vary in size from2 deniers to 4 deniers, or even coarser. The filamentfrom the cocoon is said to have an average size of about2| deniers, so that if six of these filaments are reeledtogether to produce a commercial raw silk yarn, the sizeof that yarn will be about 131 deniers. The counting ofthe cocoon filaments in raw silks to determine thedenier, however, may be considered only as corroboratingmore accurate tests. It should never be accepted as acertain indication of the denier, since the cocoon filamentnot only varies in size in different varieties of silk butalso at different seasons of the year, and under otherconditions. An 8/10-denier silk, made from, perhaps, threecocoons, is about the finest silk used in actual practice.Raw silk is irregular, or uneven, in size to a consid-
erable extent on account of the natural variation in thesize of the silk filaments produced by the silkworm.While careful reeling reduces this variation to a con-siderable degree, raw silk yarns do not possess thedegree of uniformity in size and number of yards to thepound that is characteristic of drawn and spun yarns,such as cotton yarns. Therefore, the denier of a rawsilk yarn is always expressed by covering three deniers,as, for instance, a 13/15-denier silk yarn, a 14/16-deniersilk, a 15/17-denier yarn, etc. These expressions mean,in the first instance, that the silk varies in size from13i to Hi deniers; in the second case, the possible varia-tion is from 14| to 151 deniers; and, in the last example,the size varies from 15i to 161 deniers. In making cal-culations the average denier of raw silk yarns should beconsidered. Thus, a 13/15-denier silk should be figuredas a 14-denier yarn, that is, as a silk 450 meters ofwhich will weigh 70 centigrams (14X5=70).Because of the variation in the size of raw silks a
single test to determine the denier of the yarn is unre-liable and extremely unlikely to indicate the averagedenier of the silk in any one bale. It is customary,therefore, in determining the size of raw silks, to draw
YARN CALCULATIONS 19
10 skeins from each bale, taking the skeins from differ-ent parts of the bale. From each of these skeins, threereelings are made and, to their absolutely dry weight,11 per cent, is added for normal moisture regain. Theaverage denier of these reelings is the denier of thatbale of silk and the variation in the weight of thereelings indicates the variation in the size of the silkin that particular bale, or the uniformity in size, orotherwise, of the silk.
In addition to the foregoing test, a sizing test in,which long reelings are made serves to indicate moreaccurately the yardage per given weight of raw silks,although it does not so clearly show the variation inthe size of the silk in a single bale. This is known asthe compound-sizing test and consists of making 20 reel-ings of 4,500 meters each from skeins drawn from differentparts of each bale. Since the varying inequalities insize are overrun by long reelings, this test is very reli-able in giving the correct average size and averagenumber of yards per pound of the silk in a bale.In making calculations relative to raw silks in
accordance with the denier system, the following metricconversion table will be found useful:
DENIER SYSTEM CONVERSION TABLE
Standard lengthof reeling =450 meters=492.13 yards
Standard weight,or "denier" =5 centigrams=.771618 grain
One meter =39.3704 inches=1.093623 yardsOne gram =20 "denier" weights (.05 gram each)One gram '=15.43236 grainsOne ounce =567 (practically) "denier" weightsOne ounce =437.5 grainsOne pound =9,072 (practically) "denier" weightsOne pound =7,000 grainsOne pound =453.592 grams
20 YARN CALCULATIONSSince the standard length for reeling is equal to 492.13
yd. and the standard weight, or "denier," is equal to,771618 gr., the length per pound (7,000 gr.) of a theo-
AVERAGE YARDS PER POUND, DENIER SYSTEM
YARN CALCULATIONS 21tion with the denier system, and are especially adapted tocotton-mill practice.
Rule.To find the denier of raw silk yarns, divide4,464,528 by the yards per pound of the silk.
Example.If 600 yd. of raw silk weighs 21 grains,what is the size of the silk?
Solution.600(yd.)X7 00gr.perlb.)
^^^
21 (gr.)4,464,528-^200,000 (yd. per lb.)=22.32-denier silk
Rule.To find the yards per pound of raw silk yarns,divide 4,464,528 by the average denier of the silk.Example.How many yards are contained in one
pound of 14/16 denier raw silk?Solution.The average size of the silk in this case
can be assumed to be 15-denier. Then,4,464,528^15=297,635.2 yd. per lb.
Rule.To find the weight in pounds of raw silk, divide4)464,528 by the denier of the silk and divide the quotientthus^ obtained into the total number of yards.Example.What is the weight in pounds of 557,066
yards of 20-denier silk?Solution. 4,464,528^20=223,226.4 yd. per lb.
892,912-^557,066=21 lb.The Dram System.The dram system of designating
the size of thrown silk yarns is based upon a standardlength, or reeling, of 1,000 yards and the size of thesilk is determined by the weight in drams of this lengthof yarn. For instance, if 1,000 yards of thrown silkweigh 4 drams, the yarn is a 4-dram silk, etc. Al,C00-yd. reeling is always made except in cases wherethe silk is very coarse and a reeling of this lengthwould result in a bulky skein and cause excessivewaste in sizing the yarn. Under these circumstances,500 yards or 250 yards are reeled and the weight indrams of these lengths multiplied by two or four, as thecase may be, in order to obtain the true size of the silk.Since one pound contains 256 drams, one pound of
one-dram silk will contain 256 times 1,000 yards, or
22 YARN CALCULATIONS256,000 yards. Therefore, the following rules, especiallyarranged for use in cotton mills, are applicable tothrown silks numbered by the dram system.Rule.To find the drainage of thrown silk yarns, divide
2^6,000 by the yards per pound of the silk.Example.If 32,000 yards of thrown silk are required
to weigh one pound, what is the dramage of the yarn?Solution. 256,000^32,000=8-dram silkRule.To find the yards per pound of thrown silk
yarns, divide 256,000 by the dramage of the silk.Example.How many yards of yarn are there in one
pound of 2j-dram silk?Solution. 256,000-^21=102,400 yd.Rule.To find the weight in pounds of thrown silk,
divide 256,000 by the dramage of the silk and divide thequotient thus obtained into the total number of yards.Example.What is the weight in pounds of 819,200
yards of 5-dram silk?Solution. 256,000^5= 51,200 yd. per lb.
819,200^-51,200=16 lb.It will be noted that both the denier system and the
dram system of numbering silk yarns diifer materially inprinciple from the systems employed in numbering cotton,woolen, worsted, spun silk, etc., since in the formercases the higher the number of the yarn the coarser it is,and, in the latter systems, the higher the counts the finerthe yarn and the greater the number of yards per poundthat it contains.
In both the denier and the dram systems the weightof the silk is taken "in the gum," that is, the natural gum,or sericin, of the silk fiber is not removed by any"boiling-off" process, nor is any compensation made forthe removal of the gum in calculations for finding the sizeof the yarns. For this reason, silk yarns that have beenboiled off and, also, dyed will be finer and contain agreater number of yards per pound than the indicatedsize of the yarn warrants. The exact amount of thischange in the true counts and yards per pound ofboiled-off silks depends upon the variety of the silk and
YARN CALCULATIONS 23the extent to which the boiling-oflf process is carried aswell as its nature, but will average fully 25 per cent, inthe case of dyed thrown silk.The size of silks is sometimes designated in accordance
with the number of yards per ounce. Thus, a 20,000-yd,silk is one 20,000 yards of which weigh one ounce.Schappe, or spun waste, silk yarns imported fromContinental European countries, are usually numberedwith a standard hank, or skein, length of 500 meters anda standard weight of h kilogram. This is practicallyequal to 496 yd. per pound.Denier and Dram Equivalent Counts.Since a one-
denier silk contains 4,464,528 yd. per lb. and a one-dramsilk has 256,000 yd. per lb., the constant for convertingthe counts of one system into the equivalent counts of theother system is equal to 4,464,528-^256,000, or 17.44, andthe following rules apply:Rule.To convert a silk yarn, numbered by the denier
system, to equivalent counts in the dram system, dividethe deniers by I7-44-Example.What is the equivalent in the dram system
of a 24/26-denier silk?Solution.Considering the average size of the silk to
be 25 deniers,25^17.44=1.433-dram silk
Rule.To convert a silk yarn, numbered by the dramsystem, to equivalent counts in the denier system, mul-tiply the dramage by 17.44.Example.What is the equivalent in the denier system
of a 2-dram silk?Solution. 2Xl7.44=34.88-denier silkArtificial Silk.^Artiiicial silk is produced by a com-
bination of various chemical and mechanical processes.These operations, and the basic materials employed inthem, vary according to the desired nature of the finishedproduct, there being several varieties of artificial silk.
Cellulose artificial silk, which is produced in largequantities, involves, in its manufacture, the chemicaltreatment of some form of cellulose, such as cotton or
24 YARN CALCULATIONSwood. The latter is generally employed, and is utilizedin the form of sulphite wood pulp which is chemically andmechanically treated so as to form a viscous solution,that is technically called viscose. This viscose is forcedunder pressure through very fine orifices, called "spin-nerets," into a solution that coagulates it into a con-
tinuous strand of a gelatinous nature. Further treatmentof a cleansing and finishing nature produces the artificialsilk of commerce.
Artificial silk is numbered by the denier system as inthe case of raw silk, and is seven or eight times coarserin size than natural silk. These yarns are produced insizes from about 60 deniers to 600 deniers. The finersizes are not often obtainable, being imported fromEurope. The coarser sizes are in more frequent use, the300-denier and 500-denier silks being quite often employedand regularly produced.
OTHER YARN-NUMBERING SYSTEMSYarns made of materials other than cotton are num-
bered in a similar manner to cotton yarns, with the oneexception that the standard length is different. Theaccompanying table gives the standard lengths used forvarious yarns and as in each case higher numbers indicatefiner yarns, as in the cotton system, the same rules usedin cotton-yarn numbering may be applied, the standardlength only being altered as given in the table.
STANDARD LENGTHS OF YARNS
Yarns
CottonSpun silkWorstedWoolen (run system).Woolen (cut system).Linen
Standard LengthYards
840840560
1,600300300
YARN CALCULATIONS 25
The run system is the standard American method ofnumbering woolen yarns; the cut system is used prin-cipally in Philadelphia and vicinity. Woolen yarn is alsonumbered in some districts by stating the weight in grainsof a fixed length. In the "New Hampshire" system thislength is 50 yd.; in the "Little Falls" system, 25 yd.; inthe "Amsterdam" system, 122 yd., and in the "Cohoes"system, 6i yd. A length of 20 yd. also is occasionallyused in connection with the system of expressing theweight in grains.
The size of coarse Jute, flax, or hemp yarns is deter-mined by the weight in pounds of a standard length of14,400 yd., known as a spindle. Thus, if 14,400 yd.weighs 4 lb., the yarn would be known as a 4-lb. yarn; ifit weighs 5 lb. it is a 5-lb. yarn, etc. In this system andin the woolen grain systems, it will be noted that highernumbers indicate coarser yarns.
METRIC SYSTEM OF YARN NUMBERING
From time to time there has been considerable agita-tion relative to the adoption of one system and theunification of the methods of indicating the degree offineness of yarns produced from the various fibers usedin the textile industry of the whole world. The chiefobjection is that, from long usage, the methods atpresent adopted are too well developed for a single cor-poration or a single country to take on itself such areform, without being assured that its neighbors andcompetitors will simultaneously and unanimously do thesame thing.
The method usually advocated is that of numbering allclasses of yarns by what is known as the metric system,in which 1 meter of No. 1 yarn weighs 1 gram, the meterbeing the unit of length in the metric system and thegram the unit of weight. The equivalents of the meterand the gram are as follows:
1 yard = .914 meter, 1 pound = 453.59 grams
26 YARN CALCULATIONSTo find the number of yarn in any present standard
system that corresponds to the number of yarn in themetric standard system:
Rule.Multiply the counts, given in the metric system, by453-59 (gt'ams in i lb.) mid divide by the standard numberof yards to the pound in the present system multiplied by.914 (meter in i yard).Example.A cotton yarn numbered according to the
metric system is marked 40s. Find the counts in thepresent system.
c,40X453.59
-, ^,, .Solution.840X 914 ^^^^^^^- '^"^
To find the number of yarn in the metric standardsystem that corresponds to the number of yarn in anypresent standard system:
Rule.Multiply the counts, given in the present system,by the present standard number of yards to the poundand by .914 (,m,eters in J yd.) and divide by 453.59 {gramsin I pound).
Example.A worsted yarn numbered according to thepresent system is marked 46s. Find the counts in themetric system.
46X560X.914., ^
.
Solution. t^ttt, = ol.907s. Ans.453.59
EQUIVALENT COUNTSOften it becomes necessary to place the counts of one
yarn in the system of another. That is, it may be neces-sary to learn what the counts of a certain cotton yarnwould be if it were numbered similarly to a worstedthread. When two, three, or more threads made fromdifferent raw stock and numbered according to differentmethods are placed in the same system, they are said tobe reduced to equivalent counts.
Rule.To find the counts of one system that is equiva-lent to that of another, multiply the given counts by thenumber of yards in the standard length of the specified
YARN CALCULATIONS 27
system and divide by the number of yards in the standardlength of the system required.Example 1.Find the equivalent of a 40s cotton in
worsted counts.Solution. 840X40=33,600
33,600^560=60s, worstedExplanation.Since there are 840 yd. of yarn in 1 lb.
of Is cotton, there will be 40X840, or 33,600, yd. in 1 lb.of 40s. The question then is to find the worsted countsof a yarn containing 33,600 yd. to the pound. Sincelength divided by (standard multiplied by weight) equalscounts, then 33,600-^(560X1) must equal the counts.Example 2.Find the equivalent of a 16s cotton yarn
in the woolen run system.Solution. 840X16= 13,440
13,440^1,600=8.4-run, woolen
SHORT METHODS OF FINDING EQUIVALENTCOUNTS
The accompanying table of multipliers, divisors, anddividends may be used for finding quickly the equivalentcotton counts of any yarn the counts of which are ex-
CONSTANTS FOR EQUIVALENT COTTON COUNTS
Yarn-Numbering System
28 YARN CALCULATIONSpressed in some other system. For instance, multiplyingthe counts of a worsted yarn by .667 (), or dividing thecounts by 1.5 i.f), gives the equivalent cotton counts ofthe yarn. In a similar way, the counts of a silk yarn,numbered by the denier system, if divided into 5,315gives as a quotient the equivalent cotton counts.
TWIST IN YARNSTo impart to yarn the required strength it is necessary
to insert a certain amount of twist. Warp yarn requiresmore twist than filling yarn, because it must withstanda greater strain during the weaving process. The turnsof twist per inch vary with different mills and in variouskinds of yarn, but all systems are based on the follow-ing rule:
Rtile.
To find the twist to be inserted in any counts ofyarns multiply the square root of the counts by thestandard, or constant, adopted.
In American mills, the twist constant adopted for ring-spun warp yarn is usually 4.75, and for filling yarn 3.75.Other constants frequently employed are shown in theaccompanying twist table, which also shows the turns oftwist per inch to be inserted in various counts of yarn.
Occasionally a twist constant of 4.50 is used for ring-spun warp yarn and sometimes extra-twist mule-spunwarp yarn is produced with a constant of 4.00. For theproduction of yarns for special purposes, twist constantsare varied as the case may demand.Twist may be imparted to a yarn in either a right-hand
or a left-hand direction. There is some confusion as towhat constitutes a right-hand or a left-hand twist, butthe general custom is to follow the universal machine-shop practice in this matter, that is, a right-hand twistin a yarn lies in the same direction as a right-handthread on a bolt or screw, etc. Right-hand twist is oftenspoken of as "regular" twist.
30 YARN CALCULATIONSTable(Continued)
YARN CALCULATIONSTable(Continued)
31
.32 YARN CALCULATIONSTable(Continued)
YARN CALCULATIONS 33
BREAKING WEIGHT OF COTTON WARPYARN
The strength of warp yarn is of great importance and theseyams should be frequently tested to determine whether theproper standard of strength for the various counts is beingmaintained. An instrument for determining the strength of ayarn is shown in the accompanying illustration. In testing
the strength of the yam, it is thecustom to wrap, or reel, one skeinof 120 yd. of yarn, the reel being
1| yd. in circumference, and placethis skein on the hooks o, & of thetester. By turning the handleuntil the yam breaks, the niunberof pounds required to break theskein is registered on the dial.To obtain fairly accurate results,skeins from ionr or five bobbinsshould be reeled and broken andthe results averaged. Care shouldbe taken to operate the tester atas nearly a uniform speed aspossible or the results will beerroneous; a power-driven testergives more reliable results thanone operated by hand. The skeinsof yarn should be carefully straight-ened out when placed on the testerand no twisted or tangled skeinsshould be broken. The resultsobtained by this machine are
averages only and do not show whether a yarn is evenly spun andhas a uniform strength throughout; only a single-thread test cando that. Single-thread tests, however, are difficult to make andof little value unless an exhaustive number of tests are made."When finding a standard breaking weight for carded warp
yams, the following rule may be employed.
34 YARN CALCULATIONS
Rule.Divide the courds of the yarn into 1,800, and to thequotient thus obtained add 3 lb. The result is a fair averagebreaking weight in pounds of a standard skein of yarn.
AVERAGE BREAKING WEIGHT OF AMERICAN COTTONWARP YARNS
Counts of Yarn
YARN CALCULATIONS 35
Rule.Divide the counts of the yarn into 2,500, and from thequotient thus obtained subtract 3 lb.The accompanying table, worked out by the preceding rules,
gives fair average breaking weights in pounds for standardskeins of 120 yd., wrapped on a reel IJ yd. in circumference.
PLY YARNSMethod of Numbering.Often two or more threads are
twisted together to form one coarser thread. Such yams arecommonly known as ply yarns, also sometimes called folded,or twisted, yarns. The method of numbering cotton ply yarnsis that of giving the counts of the single yarns that are foldedand placing before these counts the number that indicates thenumber of threads folded; thus, 2/40s indicates that twothreads of 40s single yarn are folded together, the folded yarnbeing equal, in weight, to a single 20s yam. During the pro-cess of twisting a slight contraction takes place. Consequently,to make the resultant counts 20s, the single yarns that are foldedmust necessarily be slightly finer than, or spun on the light sideof, 40s. However, this contraction will not be considered inthe rules and examples to be given, since it is so slight as not tobe a matter of mathematics.
PLY-YARN CALCULATIONSFolded Yarns of the Same Counts.It is not customary in
mills to fold yams of different counts, since, unless novelty orspecial yams are required, single yams of equal counts m.ake thebest double, or ply, yams. Consequently, when yams of thesame counts are folded, in order to find the counts of the result-
ing ply yam, it is simply necessary to divide the counts of theyams folded by the number of threads that constitute the plyyam. For example, if three threads of 90s cotton are foldedto form a ply yarn, the resultant yam will be equivalent inweight to a single 30s (90 -J- 3 = 30) . The counts of the ply yamand the counts of the single yam that equal it in weight shouldbe carefully distinguished; thus, the above yam is equal inweight to a single 30s, but is spoken of as a 3/90s, or 3-ply 90s.
26 YARN CALCULATIONS
The method of finding the counts, weight, and length ofply yarns is similar to that explained in connection with singleyarns, with the exception that the counts of the ply yam do notindicate the actual counts of the thread but instead indicate thecounts of the single yams folded. Consequently, when figuringto find these particulars, the actual weight of the ply yam mustbe taken into consideration, and, on this account, the counts ofthe single yam that the ply yarn equals are considered and notthe counts of the single yarns that are folded.Example 1.What is the weight of 642,000 yd. of 2-ply
40s cotton yam?642,000
Solution. = 38.211b.20X840
Explanation.To make a 2-ply 40s, two ends of 40s aretwisted together; consequently, a yard of the ply yarn willweigh just twice as much as a yard of one of the single yamsfolded, which will make the ply yam equal in weight to a 20ssingle yam. Therefore, 20, which is the actual counts of theply yam, is used in the calculation. Since length divided by(counts multiplied by standard) equals weight, then 642,000 -r-(20X840) must equal the weight of the yam.Example 2.What is the length of 20 lb. of 2-ply 36s
cotton?
Solution. 20X 18X 840= 302,400 yd.Explanation.^A 2-ply 36s is composed of two threads of 36s
folded together; consequently, the weight of a yard of the plyyarn must be just twice that of a yard of one of the ends foldedto make the ply yam. This will make the ply yam equal inweight to an 18s single yam, and 18s must be used as the countsof the ply yam in the calculation. Since weight times countstimes standard equals length, then 20X 18X840 must equal thenumber of yards in 20 lb. of 2-ply 36s.Example 3.What are the counts of a 2-ply cotton yam,
352,800 yd. of which weighs 10 lb.?352,800
Solution. =42s, or 2-ply 84s10X840
Explanation.Since length divided by (weight timesstandard) equals counts, then 352,800-^(10X840) must give
YARN CALCULATIONS 37
the actual counts of the ply yam; that is, this result gives thecounts of the ply yam considered as a single yam, but sincetwo single yams are folded and each of these is just half asheavy as the folded yam, then two ends of 84s must be foldedto make the ply yam, which, consequently, wiU be known as a2-ply 84s.Folded Yams of Different Counts.^Although not a common
practice, in some cases, especially when it is desired to make afancy yam, two yarns of different counts are folded and some-times two yarns of different materials.
Suppose, for illustration, that it is desired to find the resultantcounts of a 40s cotton folded with a 203 cotton. Take as abasis 840 yd. of each yarn; then 840 yd. of the 40s weighs :^ lb.
;
840 yd. of the 20s weighs^ lb. Consequently, after these yamsare folded, there will be 840 yd. of a ply yam the weight ofwhichis5ny+5V=A lb.The example now resolves itself into the following: What
are the counts of a yarn 840 yd. of which weighs s lb? Sincelength divided by (weight times standard) equals counts, then,
840= 13.33s, counts of the ply yam.
AX840This example has been worked out to some length in order
that the method of ntunbering ply yams may be thoroughlyunderstood. A shorter method, hov/ever, is as follows
:
RuleTo find the resultant count when two threads of differentnumbers are folded, multiply the two counts together and divide theresult thus obtained by the sum of the counts.Example.Same as previous example.
40X20Solution. = 13.33s, counts
40+20Ply Yarns Composed of More Than Two Threads.In many
cases it will be necessary to find the counts of a ply yarn madefrom more than two single threads, when a somewhat differentprocess must be folllowed. For example, suppose that threesingle threads24s, 36s, and 72s, respectivelyare folded toform a ply yam and it is required to ascertain the counts of theresultant yarn. This may be done by following the rule pre-viously given and performing two operations as follows:
38 YARN CALCULATIONS
First find the counts of the yam that would result fromfolding the 24s with the 38s as follows:
24X36= 14.4s
24+36The example then resolves itself into the following: What
are the counts of a ply yam made from one thread of 14.4s andone of 72s?
14.4X72= 12s
14.4+72
A somewhat shorter method than this may be applied to 3or more ply yarns made from different counts.
Rule.Take the highest counts and divide it by itself and byeach of the other counts. Add the results thus obtained anddivide this result into the highest counts.
Note.^Although it is common practice to use the highestcounts as a dividend, this is not absolutely esssential, as anycounts, or in fact any number, may be used as the dividendand the correct answer obtained.
ExAMPi-E.Same as given previously.Solution. 72 -=-72 = 1
72--36 = 2
72 :-24 = 3
672^6 = 12s
Rule.To find the resultant counts when more than one end ofthe different counts are folded, divide the highest counts by itselfand by each of the other counts. Multiply the result in each caseby the number of ends oftliat counts. Add the results thus obtainedand divide this result into the highest counts.
Example. 4 ends of 80s and 3 ends of 60s are folded toform a ply yam; what are the resultant counts?Solution. 80-^80=1; 1 X4 = 4
80^60=U; 11X3= 48
80-4-8= 10s, resultant countsWhen dealing with ply yams it often becomes necessary to
find the counts of a yam to be folded with another to producea given counts.
YARN CALCULATIONS 39
Rule.
Multiply the two counts together and divide by iheirdifference.
Example.^What counts must be fofded with a 50s to pro-duce a ply yam equal in v/eight to a 30s?
50X30Solution. = 75s
50-30Proof.^What are the counts of a ply yam made by twisting
a 50s with a 75s?50X75
= 30s50+75
Another calculation is that of finding the required weight ofeach thread folded in order to produce a required weight of theply yam.
Rule.
Find the counts resulting from folding the two or morethreads; then, as the counts of one thread is to the resultant counts
so is the total weight to the weight required of that thread.Example.It is desired to produce 100 lb. of a ply yam com-
posed of an 80s and a 32s twisted together; what will be therequired weight of the 80s and also of the 32s?
80X32Solution, = 22.85s, resultant counts
80+3232:22.85-100:*
100X22.8.Sx= = 71.40 lb. of 32s
3280:22.85 = 100::x;
100X22.85x= = 28.56 lb. of 80s
80In a case similar to the example given above, after the weight
of one thread has been obtained, it is of course only necessaryto subtract that weight from the total weight in order to obtainthe weight of the other thread; or, in case more than twothreads are folded, then the weight of one of these threads mayalways be obtained by subtracting the combined weight of theother threads from the total weight of the ply yam.
Note.In the previous example the weight of the 80s yamplus the weight of the 32s yam should equal the weight ofthe ply yam, but owing to the use of decimals, examples ofthis kind seldom give exact results. Thus, 71.40 lb. +28.56 lb.= 99.96 lb.; whereas the total weight should be 100 lb. -
40 YARN CALCULATIONS
Althougti the preceding rule states the logical method ofsolving examples of this character, a short-cut method of findingthe weight of the single yams in any given weight of ply yamis as follows:
Rule.
Divide any count by itself and 6y each of the othercounts; add the quotients thus obtained and divide their sum intothe total weight of the ply yarn. The final result is the weight ofthat component yarn the counts of which was used as a dividend.
Calculation of Cost of Ply Yarns If the price of each yam isgiven and it is required to find the price per pound of the resul-tant yam, it becomes necessary to multiply the weight of eachcount of yam by its price, add the results, and divide by thetotal weight. The answer will be the price per pound of theply yam.Example.If in the example previously given, the 80s yam
is worth 72c per pound and the 32s is worth 480 per pound, whatwill be the cost per pound of the ply yam?
Solution.71.40 lb. of 32s at 48c per lb. = $34.27, cost of the 32s yam28.56 lb. of 80s at 72c per lb. = $20.56, cost of the 80s yam
- $34.27+$20.56 = $54.83, total cost of ply yam$54.83-;- 100 = 54.8c per lb., cost of the ply yamAnother rule for finding the price of 2-ply yams when the
threads to be twisted together are of different values and dif-ferent counts is as follows:
Rule.Multiply the highest counts by the price of the lowestcounts and the lowest counts by the price of the highest. Add theresults thus obtained and divide this result by the sum of thecounts. The answer will be the price of the ply yarn.
Example.^A 32s yam costs 42c per pound and a 16s yamcosts 18c per pound; what will be the cost per pound of a plyyarn restdting from twisting these two?
Solution. 32x$.18 = $5.76; 16X$.42 = $6.72$5.76-f$6.72 = $12.48; 32-f 16= 48$12.48-^48 = 26c.
PLY YARNS OF SPUN SILKThe numbering of ply yams made from spun silk will be found
to differ somewhat from the methods previously explained.
YARN CALCULATIONS 41
Thus, when numbering silk ply yarns, the counts resulting afterfolding the yams is given and this number is followed by thenumber that indicates how many threads are folded.For example, 60/2 spun silk indicates that two threads of
I2O3 have been folded together. Thus, it will be seen that theactual counts of the ply yam are given instead of the countsof the single yam, as is the case in cotton, woolen, and worstedply yams .Example 1.What is the weight of 642,000 yd. of a 40s
2-ply sun silk?642,000
Solution. =19.107 lb.40X840
Explanation.40s 2-ply spun silk is equal in weight to asingle thread of 40s. Consequently, 40 should be consideredas the counts of the ply yam when finding weight or length.Since length divided by (counts times standard) equals weight,the solution given must be correct.Example 2.What is the length of 20 lb. of a 30s 2-ply
spun silk?Solution. 840X30X20 = 504,000 yd.Explanation.A 30s 2-ply spun silk is equal in weight to
a single 30s; consequently, 30 should be considered as thecounts of the ply yarn. Since standard times counts timesweight equals length, 840X30X20 must equal the length ofthe yarn.
Example 3.What are the counts of a 2-ply silk yam if352,800 yd. weighs 10 lb.?
352,800Solution. = 42s 2-ply
10X840Explanation.The counts of the 2-ply yam would be
indicated as follows: 42/2 spun silk, which shows that twoends of 84s have been twisted to make the ply yam.
PLY YARNS OF DIFFERENT MATERIALSIn all cases where threads of different materials are twisted
together, in order to perform any of the calculations previouslyexplained, it becomes necessary first to place these counts inthe same system of numbering yarnd.
42 YARN CALCULATIONS
Example.A 36s cotton and a 48s worsted are twisted toform a ply yam; what are the counts of the resultant yam?
Solution.It is first necessary to ascertain in which systemthe resultant yarn should be placed. In this case the countsof the ply yam will be found in both the worsted and cottonsystems. In the first case, then, to find the worsted countsof the ply yam resulting from twisting these two yams it isnecessary to find the equivalent counts of the 36s cotton inthe worsted system.
36X840= 54s
560The 36s cotton is found to equal a 54s worsted, so that the
question resolves itself into the following: What are the counts-of a ply yam resuJt