Trainning Vellore:Sanghavi Shoes by Jacson Cardoso
First Day:18/04/2007.
I Showed…How you use your measure tape.
How mutch measure your tape in English?
How mutch measure your tape in French ?
How mutch is( in and mm)?Progression in length an ball girth.
How mutch is scale American,French and English.
How you measure right a Last.
How you use the machine for centralize the Last. (Kehl Machine)
Bottom profile,toe profile,back profile botton pattern.(Revision)
To make toe dog and heel dog in machine and only the finishing by hand…
The hard work in machine, the details by hand.
Only by hand 30 minutes,machine and hand 5 minutes.(Biggest difference)
For correct use this machine you need to understand the problem the Last for after the corrections.(Tread point,seat heel,balance,etc)
Picture the machine after centralize this Last.(Adjust the heel height,check everything,and put 6,6.5 or 7 degree)(Or how mutch you need)
Same model after adjust in back part.Lock here the difference only in cuboide.The Last Up and the Last down.
Seat heel and tread point 100%. This model Made in Vellore by Sanghavi Shoes.
Discipline in work.
Second day:19/04/2007.
First I showed how you locked un model,lines,shape,fashion,side,in front,the front,etc.How you use the tools,everything,safe with machines,safe with electric,clean the factory,clear your table,and ability for work in team.
I gave a (model)for everybody. This is the model and I am the customer,I need this Shape…
All are making the same shape.
The importance the bottom simetric.Last simetric in back part.Balance the Last.
Conversion Table for Gents…American,U.K,Brazil,European.
Meeting with boys:What is the company you work ?
Sanghavi Shoes,how many factories have…Halol,Agra,Chennai,Kanpur,Mumbai,New Vellore.
You have a good future,but first need mutch work,because a model maker need long time for to have experience.What is a shoe last model maker?
The model maker is a artisan,a artist the Last,you need to have sensitivity with the Last.
To check all points,check the measurements,check,check,check.Carry out,times,promises.Carry out your task.
Tea only twice per day,one in the morinig other in the afternoon.
Discipline in work.
Third day:20/04/2007.
Now everybody finishing your model,and put your name.This is your first Last your first model,and now everyday you need to make better,everyday you need more quality,agility for your satisfaction and the
customer and the company.
Last definitions:Backpart,backpart width,bottom width,cone,forepart,feather line,grade,grade line,girth,ground plane,heel curve,heel seat,heel seat
width,hinge,heel pitch,instep girth,instep point,joint,joint region,joint girth,long heel girth,seat angle,swells,seat plane,thimble,toe spring,toe plane,vamp
region,waist girth,stick length.Shoes definitions:mule,espadrille,plimsoll,slip-on,toe-strap,moccasin,flip-
flop,clog,sandal,hiking boot,pump,ankle-strap,slingback shoe,court,one-bar shoe,T-strap shoe,thigh-boot,boot,ankle boot,heavy-duty
boot,chukka,galosh,bootee,oxford shoe,lace-up.(Names and pictures)Parts of a shoe:
Shoelace,punch hole,outsole,heel,heel grip,quarter,lining,all partys.(All partys of a shoe names and pictures)
Today Exam - Test(Same school)Types of scale,conversion table,grading size by size,etc.
Picture the first model,first creation.
Discipline in work and organization.
Fourth day:21/04/2007.
Check the test(Exam)and explain the mistakes and the right.And explain this is normal,because this is the first exam,but it`s necessary
study(To study) more.Position of points of measure the Last,correct positions,how you check the bottom
pattern,girth,alignment,etc.Fitting,to adjust the model,to increase(minus)seat of the last,heel seat.
Tools of work:hammer,screwdriver,cordless screwdriver,screw,tack,nail set(for mark point),file,rasp,wood chisel,drilling tools,gripping and tightening tools.
Comfortable,fitting and fashion.And practice and model room,rasp,rasp,work,work,cutting,cutting,put
material,remove material,etc.
Picture the exam(test in class)
Sense of responsibility,initiative and discipline.
Fifth day:23/04/2007
Starting with revisions,Why make this,How you make this ? Everything again…How you make a Last for a sole.Shape,bottom,copy profile,anatomic.With past
Italy(Car repair)Conversion Table,for ladyes and children.
Measurement,grading,etc.Bottom,and make heel line and centralize line in bottom pattern.Again use the
Kehl Machine for centralize the Last.
And making adjusts,up toe,down toe,change ball girth,increase, length,reduction
ball girth,reduction heel height.
New development,change toe spring,and increase,and making the profiles this
Last,and after checking the Last in centralize machine.
Picture after finishing model.
Ability of relationship,discipline,education with the customer and
everybody.
Sixth day:24/04/2007.Coordenation,heel shank,types,groups,American system
widths,13C(child),6B(woman),8D(man).
AAAA-AAA-AA-A-B-C-D-E-EE-EEE
French system
British system,6 widths,A,B,C,D,E,F.
12E(child),4D(woman),8F(man).
Last measurement control.
Check again,how you use the Kehl Machine.
And more,mutch more practice,by hand,by machine,etc.(Model
Room)
Work with machines,more fast,more quality,better for the
company,better for the customer,better for everybody.
To make the things only by hand is same you have a Ferrari, but
use only 60KM speed…Why? Use machine always ,for more agility
in work.Picture people use the machine.
Dynamism,Discipline,Organization.
Seventh day:25/04/2007.
The priority points of Last.
Toe tickness,ball girth,wais,instep,break of ball,hell to instep girth,stick
length,ball width,bottom length,hell seat width,toe spring,shank
curve,cuboid,heel height,heel wedge angle,seat width,cuboid width,heel curve.
Grading again,Kehl machine,and practice in model room,copy shape of
sole,making bottom and use the compasso for the diference of leather of shoe.
And use in all the Last -1.5mm or of
accordin(in agreement) with the customer.(sole,etc)
Picture the work in model room.
Agility,initiative,discipline.
Eighth day:26/04/2007Now revision general,measures,profiles,how you make this and this.
New exam(test)for to check the know-how of everybody.
Theory class.After more practice in the model room,and care with safe,in
machines,and electric,etc.
Use the Kehl machine…Modify Last:cutting the Last,up,down,up,down…
How you use the caliper.And all tools of measurement.
Coordination again.Groups.Everything.
Last same length,change only ball girth,Last same heel,Last same shank
curve(wedge heel).
Meeting with boys:What you think for your future ?
What you need for the best ?
Why you need discipline in the company ?
This things,because you have a opportunity only.
Today you make your service better, tomorrow you receive other opportunitys
here.
To make only the best service,check your model,check the production after check
in production is same your model.
Don`t listening negatives people.No listening!Listening only good things.
You have a new idea,show for the company.Not waste
material.Reduce cost,no waste power,no waste money,no waste
time,work more.
Work in team.More fast, better, more cheap, easy.
Just in time – Housekeeping:5S(Japanese technique)
Sense of usefulness.Sense of ordination.Sense of cleanness.
Sense of health.Sense of self-discipline.
Discipline,initiative.
Ninth day:27/04/2007.
Revision general.
New exam(test in class) for to check everything the people remember or no.
Measure,coordination,grading system(scale),how to make the bottom
pattern,how use da Kehl machine,conversion table,etc.
Practice in model room.Making toe finishing,heel finishing,profiles,checking the
Last,use the machines for checking the Last,stick length,ball girth,toe
spring,comb,caliper,etc.
Bottom pattern simetric,more practice in making toe profiles and back
profiles,put plastic,and remove plastic,increase ball girth,remove ball girth,etc.
Making bottom pattern in insole.And after remove the material by
compasso,1.5mm,and after making the new Last.
Picture making model of according with the sole.
TPM=Total productive maintenance and discipline.
Tenth day:28/04/2007.New revision general:
Last definitions,last production and your properties.
Grading System:
The French system is used in almost all the European countries,some places in
Africa(former colonies)Latin America and Central America.
The British system is used in the U.K.,the USA,Canada,Autralia,and another
English-Speaking countries(or former British colonies).
French system – length of the foot.
EX: 35X6.66=233,33mm
British system – length of the foot.
American system – length of the foot.
And how you make the last insole minimum length.(Fit addition)
Quality control.
Fitting and foot health.
Screen the CAD System.
CAD system,today it`s possible you make the Last,and after you send a file for the
customer to make the(body of the last,design,and many more).
Today the time is money,no waste the Time,work more,and make you work better
everyday,everyday more quality,more agility,etc.
Picture making model of Picture of shoes.(Copy toe shape only for pictures)
The correct position back curve, heel angle, heel seat and tread point.
Honestly,discipline and education.
Conclusion:
All people have capacity,but no possible to make a model maker in 10
days.Then for me,it`s necessary now,this people in the factory in
Halol for know the process,injection moulding,visiting the sector of
plate,hinge,milling,rough,blocks, everything and for 1 or 2 days only
they loocking,step by step and a person explain for they(Mr.Jain or
Dilip),but please show,everything step by step,explain,what is
this,how make this,this make this,etc.
Show what is right(correct)what is mistake.Show this details.
Another important thing and the use of uniforms in the modeling with the name of company(Sanghavi Shoes).And closed shoes.(No
Sandals)
After this…,2 weeks direct in production,1 week making only toe
finish,and after 1 week only back finish,(please use the machines –
remember the time by hand 30 minutes,and machine and hand
5)please.After this one week only in the model room,copy shoes,copy
last,all things.
Please for everybody,only 1 tea in the morning and 1 tea in
the afternoon.
Except I have a customer this things,meeting with model
maker and customer,this ok,but in time the work
not,everytime this no correct,this is waste.It`s need to be
general for all factories Sanghavi.And the mobile same
thing,use the mobile everytime,this no good, no right, this is
waste of money,only for work,customer etc.(And
emergency)
Everybody has that to give the example for them.
Seriousness, disciplines.
Don`t allow the other workers to say to things unnecessary for these new workers.
Because this people now having very good discipline.Working and don`t need stop everytime.No
sleeping.
For me other thing important is this people a visit a Shoe Factory,for understand.What the Last make in shoe.Why
need the Last perfect.
I think/suggestion:For me one month(or 20 days min.) in Halol this people,and after
again here in Vellore.
The boys departure:01/05/2007 or 02/05/2007.
And come back only: 01/06/2007.(One month is better only 15 days is
short time)
And, I now for 2 weeks in Chennai,for visit customer and check the
work,and to help Natarajan and all things.To check in Farida
everything It`s ok,because Alex Brazil Wal Mart(I ask;
Do you have new developments?----and I ask for give me more
Last)and him need support with your Last,very quickly.
And after 14/05/2007 I going to Halol,for 15 days,come back in
28/06/2007.
Again Chennai for visit and check everything,What you need,all
customer,etc.
And 11/06/2007,going to Vellore again for more 2 or 3 weeks of
training.
And after sending the boys to Agra for 2 weeks ,and I going to
Chennai.
After 2 weeks the boys come back to Vellore and I going again to
Vellore for more training.
The secret of the success this in union of the group.Sanghavi Shoes.
I think this,ok.Please any questions tell me.
Thanks for your attention
My best regards.
Jacson Cardoso – Sanghavi Shoes Accessories PVT.LTD.
28/04/2007.
That God in protects them.