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N O TE S FR O M TH E SH O P
2 50
O 2
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W OO'D SM lTI:
'WOODSMfTH (ISSN 0164-4114) ts published
bimonthly (January, March. May,
J~IY,
Sep
te m b e r, Novemberl b y W O O d s m U Il P u b lis h lJ1 g
Co.,
2200 Gfllnd Ave.,DesMoil)8s, lowa 50 312.
WOODSMrTH
Is
a reglslered
r od .m arl( o f
the
WoodsmilhPubllshlfl9
Co,
'Copyrlght 1982 byWoodsmllh Publishing Co,
A l l Rlghls Ras rVe~.
Subscriptions: One year (6 lssues) S10, lIvo
years (12 issuas) S18, Single copy price, 2.50
(Canada
and
Forelg~:addS2per yea,-)
Change O f
Address:
Please
be
sur.
to
Inc hide
00 111 our o ld
and
ne w address and a mailing
label from a recent issue
Pos tmas te r : S end change o f address nO lic
F o rm 3 5 7 9 , 1 0 W O O d s m ilh p u b nshi l lQ
Co ..
2 2 0 0
GrandAve.. DesM oine s ,
Iowa
50 312.
And the best hel p
know of
is
a ro ute
ta bl e. Ever since w e bllilf
the
ro uter ta bl
(shown in
\VoooSI lti ll 1N o ,
20),
m y ro ute
h as s pent a lo t
m o re tim e making dust . ,
ins tead o f
collecbing
it,
O kay, D on, why the big sales pitch o
th e r ou ter table?
As
mentioned above,
ave thi s thi n
about using too ls tha~ our reader. ar
likely
to hav e, A ltho ugh several br an d s
router ta bles are
on
~he m arket, I 'ea
prefer O\U' home-m ade version ,
I guess w hat I 'm getting at is this : L li
this router
table, 0
I used
it to bu ild
th
projects
in thi s issue .
UL
that
~rb
of
lm
p lie s th at y ou
have 10 bui ld . the rout er
tab
befo re
YOU
c an b uild an y
of
these
p. 'oje,c,
\V bic h is sort or true. So , 1 feel a litt
guiJt), b ec au se y ou m ay no t w ant to bui
it,
But
h in k it's .
pretty
good
tool,
S o
tend to
encourage
bu ild in g it.
Ana [ driv
myself
crazy
in th e p ro ce ss.
J.A'I 'H fJ 1'RO.nlCT ; ,
Tntllingf o a new su
ject, we 've received a lo t o f requests f
lathe pro jeets, A nd that presents a prob
lem , I don't have
much ex perience
wi
la th e w o rk , and to be honest ,
don' t g
that exc ite d abo ut it,
However,
S tev~ (our nellA ss is ta nt Ed
to r) is pret ty good on
a
lathe,
so
he 's th
one that go t us go ing o n th~ T urned l'Jo
Bowl in l hi s i ss ue , fae~,he ' s no w wor
in g
on
a series o f
articles
on tur ning ,
Why did
w e cho ose a bow l (facep lat
turning) to s tart this series ?
W ell, w e d id n't know w here to s tart,
w e sat d ow n and
talked
a bo ut.l t. S te ve s a
that
alm ost every bo ok
he's s e e n on C U
ingsuggests tl) at yo u
s h o u ld
s tart
OUt
wi
sp ind le turn ing '
(b etween
center$) to
lear
th e
basics,
1 said, Yeah, but
spindle
turning
us ually m eans tu rning legs , an d then
have to build
a
ta ble
to
go
with th e
legs
Steve
re sp on de d, W e ll, we could tum -
ample bowl,
but it
takes a
li tt le
mo
patience
to
learn
the
teehniqne s.
M y eyes
lit
up , 'Patience, th ere's m
favorite
word , L et's d o
it,
Th
next day,
Steve
em erged fro m th
s ho p w ith a p ro to ty pe o f the bow l he ha d
m ind , and handed it
to
m e, N ow , usuall
when
I see a w oo dw orking project , 1 stan
back,
CrOSSmy arms ,
and stroke
my
chi
w ith
serious look on m y face .
This tim e things were different.
As
held the bo wl, I could see the wood , but
cou ld al so feel it.
And
I co uld feel th
textu re and the
sh ape
of it,
That S
all it lo ok, N ow I'm excite d abou
bo wl tur ning, and I th in k w e'll be
doing
lo t m ore o f it ,
NEXT )LULING, July, 198 2
Ed itor
Donald B, Peschke
Des Ig n @ I ro clor
Ted Kralicek
A rt D ire ctor
Jon Snyd~r
Assistant Edito r
S te ve K ro hm er
Graphic D eslgner
Mo re fa S imm o n s
Sub scriptionManager
Sandy
J,
Baum
SubscHptfonAsslslanls
Chrlslel Bork
onna rins
Adm in is tra tiv e Ass ist an t
eheryl Scott
CC)fllrlbu tfn gEd iio r
AdolphE, Pescjike
.1 11 01;1'
1'1f I$
ISSU E.
As soon as
w e
fi ni shed
the S cho olh ouse C lock fo r this issue, we
decided to hang it on the wall in OUI recep
tion
area.
Since
we
rent spac e in a large
bu ild ing, w e o ften get vis ito l' siookingill
to
see what the la te st pro ject is , The day we
put the
Schoo lhouse C lo ck on
th e w all,
we
ha d tw o requests
to buy
it on the spo t, , '
fo r $350,
N ow 1
w a s
faced w ith a to ugh decisioh.
Sho ul d
I
spend the weekend
building
arrother clock an d pick up an easy
~O?
0.,
should
r
do what I rea ll y want to
< 1 :
m ow
the-law n and
pull
w eed s in fhe garden?
'T OOLS.A
com m ent
1 heal ' fro m a
lo t o f
guys jus t stal'ting out in woodwonking
g oes s ome th in g lik e th is : I 'd lik e -to build a
pr oje ct like nha nS choo lh ous e C l o ck , , , i I
only had the to ols ,
\ e ll, we
built the clock, ~he
Curio
C ab in et, the
Lw-y
S us an a nd th e'l 1ive t (al l
show n in th is i$$ ue) w ith o nly
tWQ
mllio r
tools :
a
table saw
and a
router.
That s
ce rtainly no t m uch in the w ay o f to o ls .
Actually, I 'll have to
adrnit,
th at you do
lI eed one m ore too l. Pat ien ce, A ll o f these
pl,.jject~
involve mitered
joints,
Althoug h
o ne illite I' is no t
~ hat
d ifficult ~ cut,
whe n
} OU
hav e
to
cui-several m itersffor
an
octagona l
Irarne,
fo r insta,lI ce) , they all
have to mate per fectly . ~ 'h a t t end s t o take
a l it tl e t ime , A n d m ay be f ew t ri al cut s -o n
so m e
SCI aP
wood , (0m ' sho p is litered
with
SCIOPS
like
this.)
Question:
011
sai d yo u
used
router
fOl
all o f th ese pl'O jects , W hat kind o f
router
d id yo u us e?
W e h av e fOUlIouters in the sho p S e ars ,
R o c~ w e l l , S l.cInle y an d M a kit o .) . [tt.~not,
that we needed al l
of
th em .
It s ju st
that
we re
in the pro ce ss o f try ing them out,
B ut to answer the que stion we used a
lie ,
Sea TS O af tsmall J h p .
router fo r m ost
o f the work, Surprised ' w anted to use
th is router 1'01'
two
reasons , 'F if '.t, Llik e. to
us e
the
k in d o f equ ipment
that
mo s t o f.o \u '
readers are like y to
OWIl.
A nd s ec on d, I
w anted to use the new Seal's edge guide
an d
trammel-point.atjaehment
N o ,
251 19,
S15) , It's a pretty
nice liltle
gizmo.
N ow that we' re
Oll
the s ubject
of
routers, have a few other co m m e nts I 'd
lik e to make, I have the feeling th at,
toute rs are kind o f d re am ma c hin es f or
.woo dw orkers, W ith
all
L ho se bits and at
tachm ents , you ought to be able to cia
alm ost
811ything w ith
them ,
But the
process
of tu rn ing drea m s int o a
finished pro ject is no t always an easy one.
Consequently,
routers
sp end m o st o f their
tim e c o ll ectin g d us t,
ln fact, I 've com e to think of a router as
just a C ane y
motor
that needs som e he lp,
wdust
May, 1982
umber 21
Wcodsmith
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3
@ ODSMI'{ 'H
We In vlle y ou to s ha re y our woodworl
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I
c
II,. 3 ~~. 72
IUlllSj A
CUnlNG D'AGRAM
WOODSMIT
o /i .:t 31 x 21Jf. (23)
'I. )( 3Y 4 x 30/
(4V,)
1 : 1 / , . :t
30/. 8 h (9)
x 1 /... S ( 0)
I.
t
1/ , .. 3V,. (5)
2_8 ,0)
I~l 3..6~17..,,)
I~
x )/. .
cut to
6t
/1 x
7; .. 6
8
h
111 x I .. 17/,. (8h)
If . x It .. 21 ;
312 )
A C aa Si d
a C o .. . B ot to m s
C Cas. Top
o
Fromo Sid,.
E
Ffom.
8ottoms
F From o Top
G Dial frame
H Molding Stript
I
Doot To p
J
Door
Sid
K Doo, Bottoms
4
kindofexpense, you can also use a battery
operated quartz movement. The move
ment that
we
know
will
fit this clock istrom
the K l l X k il Company (Catalog: free). P.O.
Box
6: . 9,
Lake Geneva, \\1 5:H~7. The
quartz movement is Cat.
:\0.
12005.
$25.95.
This movement ha 't provisions f or b ou r
and minute hands (but not a calendar
hand), Bim-Bam chime. (that sound some
lhing like n electric door bell), an in-
MA T ER IA L S L IS T
Thi. Schoolhouse Clock is buill from just
tw o
oak
bo -d s
6-feetlong. That'S not what
I would
call
lot of lumber,
However ,
th ese boards mU8t be cut up in to
82
small
pieces (jUSllhc l'ight size and shape), and
c(u'el't.llyjoined togclhel:
I
hink that's the mos], intriguing thing
about clock-building, [t doesn't require
IOlof wood, , . but it does r eq uire lot or
woodwo rk in g s ki ll .
JOIN~RI: Joine.y is I>robably the most
important aspect or this clock. Almost
every joint is on di ipla)~ so it must be cut
aeeuratelj; However; that s not easy
be
cau se th e
pleees
are
s om ew h at s ma ll,
and
most of them are mitered at 22;< .
This miter angle is the result of the
ocw~'Onal(eight-sidcd) design theme. The
fram~ surrounding' the dial, the part ofth ...
ease extending below this frame. and the
n a m e for the Ria door all require miters
cu t at 22Yt .
Since each ofthese miters is joined wi.
the aid of n spllne. grooves mnsl be cut hi
all mitered pieces. Although thi$ can be
done 0.1II table Orradial-arm S i Iound
it,
was n whole lot easier on a router table. I
gut what I'm geltillJ: at here is that you
might want to build the router table
(shown in lVood.mith No. 20) before
launching into this Schoolhouse Clock.
Then:ne other consideration. The
woodworking
part
of [his project is both
fun and challenging. However. the result
is
lIot
8 clock. Rather. it's JUSt the casse for
the real tilL' of the clock: the works,
TH E C LO CK M OVE MEN T
\Vc dcsigned this schoolhouse dock to
accept two kinds of works: either the
traduional gear and 8111'ing movement,
or the modern replacement: a battery
operated lUU .tz movement,
1 01'he c1'Bull Hinge., ro , two pair . (D301
$.65 per pair)
Brass
1)001
Knob.
(0303l>.
$.55 each)
Bullet Catch. ',. diameter.
:Y.'
long
e I : ~ x l l . s s . r o
I
1 0
'Iurn-Button Latch. (1) 057, $.9[>per 10
Bm.ss Hanger. (l);lOO l, $1,5[>per 10)
4) Glass
(QI
Pendulum 0001:
W e
use
singlc~i.'(>ngthwindow gl'l-' for the pen
dulum door, and cut it to fit the door fram
oursclve. Jon (our Art Director) adde
the black lind (olclpainted borders .,-oun
lhe ~lIge of the g18$8,This is a nice Iiltl
touch, but not altogether: necessary -
requu-cs a llttte more artistic talent tha
I have.
OnCCihe harcJwllI-eand clock works ar
ordered (anll hopefully in hand), the woo
working can begin. l.tal1ed \\;th the case
TH E C ASE
The CMC (showl in Fig. 1) has six sides
\\;th the botLOmthree pieces forming
partial0
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o
,
,
I
,
. ,
~21 MltEI
l
.~. ~,...IAtan
ONflONt eec e
A
5
.S M'llJt
r
r
I
S I E V I EW
Dfl GIOOV(
AGUlll
rough length u:\ing il\ the sequence shown
in the CUlling Oingram to maintain
a
CO'l
tinous grain pattern. Next, both ends of
each piece a r e m it er ed ,
I started with the center beuom piece
(E ), miWrin~ both
end, at
22 -1 ,0 . Then I
glued it in Illace, Next, I cut the two other
bottom pieces lind glUl~1 th em in place.
Fig, ,I. Getting these pieces to fit tal, es a
little pillying around, Although they
should be mitered al cx~clly 2214 , in
reality they're cut to lit .0 the joint lines
to - e tight and match III) with the jOint lines
on the case,
FUI' the side picees (01 one end is mi
tered (at about 22 ) to mate with the
bottom
pieces. But
the other end (the top
end) is mitered at '15'. The final length of
both side piece. should be
8 1 ,
from long
point to long point.
Before gluing the side piece.
in
place, I
cut two notches in o ne piece for the do or
hinge, These notehe~are ~ . ide (or the
width of the hinj\'('s)and o/j. deep, On the
o ther .ide )Ji~ce
8
r , hole is drilled for a
bullet catch.
fimdly, the 2 wicl~frame top (F) is cut
to fit between the rabbets in the case, and
mitered Ill 4u ) to mate with the side
pieces, Fig, 5,
t . - OltOO V I
, 0[1 l
v. U NE
,. WIO(
~- ~ ~ - ~M~ ~. - -
\
/4-.~1.I.a
ON IAC~rOGf
G
GIIAlN
' 1 t C n O H
I
01
IA II
ON CI tOG
~..
JlGutl: ,
- . 1 , - 1 , . . . _ . ...j.:
. .
l .-
-~
~-
. . . . _ _
-
flouRI: I
WOODSMIr H
3~' final width,
Cl TTOI.E~ ;TlI,Five ohhese pieces the
two .ide. and three bottom pieces) can be
cut to final length now, (The top is cut
later), I .tarwd with the two side pieces
A , culting the tOP end square, The bot
tom end is cut at a 2 21 ,miter 50 the final
length (from the square end to the long
point of the mitered end) is 21. .
Next, the three bottom
pieces
(B) are
cut. I lteRc piece s arc mitered at 22~9on
both end.
so
the
finnl
length (from long
po in t, to 101l1( po int) j s 80/,.,
CltOQ\'(': I()lt ~1Il~~~
ow the gro ov es
for the sp line. eun be cut, As shown ill the
detail in ~'ig, :l, the gI'OOveIs positioned
Y,, 1 1 001
the long point of the miter to
allow room for the rabbets. Once the
grOO\'CS are Ctll. the splines are cut to fit.
ITh;
technique is
discussed
in
more
detail
on pug
8,)
R\Hllt:n;, Finally, rabbets must be rut
on both the fr'Ont( - < l i t ' and back edge of the
two .ide (AI and the three bottom pieces
(Bl- the top i. not rabbeted, The
o
x
V[
rabbet
on the front edge is for the door
frame, and the
1
x
1 1 ,
rabbet on the back
edge i orthe plywood back, Pig,
a .
Also,
y...
dcCI) rabbet on the top ends of the
two side picce (A) should be cut 1 , w ide
(to match the thickness of the lop piece).
se e
Fig,
2 ,
II~TO~m{.:,
Dry -assembfe
these five
pieces (llIinu~the lOp) to make
sure
every
thing fit. properly, Now final
measure-
ments 1 '0 1 ' the top C) ran be taken.
The top piece iNjoined to the two sides
with n rabbet and dado joint. see fig, 2,
Cut a I .dol'p dado tight along the
shoulder of the rabbet, Then CUta 1-abbet
on both .nd, of the tOPpiece
C).
lea\iIlg a
Wngue to fit in the gl'O()\'e,The key thing
here is that when the top is installed. the
two sides A) must be parallel. If this
forces the mitered joims on the three bo t
tom piece. slightl)' out o f alignment, it s
not too much of a problem because they'll
be covered with
a
moldillg
strip
later,
A> s~Mllt,.
AU
six pieces fo,' the case ca n
now be ghl('(1to(cthe,', I started with the
bottom pieces and worked my way around
to
the
tOI), I used tw o
band
(strap) clamps
around the perim et er o f the case to hold it
togethel' while the glue was drying,
THE DOOR FRAME
As the glue was drying on the case. ]
started work on the door frame - the six
pieces between the ease and the glass door,
Since oneorlhc~~~ixpieees is
2
wide. first
I ripped
a
:? widestrip. ~ ong,
Before cuttin~ the six pieces
LO
rough
length, Iesawl'(l (lipped on edge) this
strip to
a
Vi
thickness.
Then
r
cut off
a ]0
length for lhe to piece (Fl. and ripped the
remainder lV wide fOl'the two sides (D)
and thre e bottom p ieces (E ),
Now, each of
ih es e fiv e piece s
is cut to
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t
OtA l FRA ME
W00DSM1T
eWl
THE OCTAGONAL FRAME
A with all the other p ie ce s so fa r, th e
c cta go na l f rame ( su rr ou nd ing tbe dial) 1
cut from one
ship
of w ood
to get a eon
rinuous gt-ain
patrern.
Rip-a p ie ce o f stock 3 wide by
6 0
lo n
(seeCuttingDiag ,.am ) fo r the fra me p iece
(G). Then cut each piece to rough length
(7~ ),
Both
ends-ofeach
piece a re
mitere
at
22y
so th . fina l length is
6V..
from
long point
to
l ong po in t.
'rhis is not easy, In fact, the bes
approach is to make trial cuts OIl som
sc rap w oo d, T hen
fit
th e ( lig ht trial piece
together, If there'. more than an II gap
total)
on thi
s
assembly,
reset
the m ite
gauge
and
tr y a ga in, The p ie ce s
don't
hav
to
fit
p.,fectly (some corr ection
can
b
mad e d urin g assem bly ), bu t th ey sh ould
be c 1 0 8 ( l .
GROO~'E FORSPLINES, Now the grooves
ror the sp line s can be cu t. T hese g roo ves
m u st b e s te p pe d 51 > t hey don't sho w 01 1 th e
pe'~m0te
of th e
fram e, (This where the
router
table wonks like
ch arm . see
pag
8 fOl' details on L bis cut.) T hese sp line
g roove s s hould b e c ut clo se to th e WIck sid
of each p iec e to a llo w room for th e rabbet
on the fon t edge, see Fig. 6,
A fter (he spline grooves are cut.
l 1 .
deep by Vi wide rabbet is cu t O il th e froll
~face)side of e ach p ie ce , (Aga il t hi j; wa
do ne o n th e router
table.I
ASSE~18LY, Gluing'up this frame is do n
in f ~ First, I glue d pairs together t
f orm f o\u' sections. Then lued lwe se c
t ion s t ogether to I()I'm we h alv es , rr th
splines fit tightly in the grooves thi
gluing
can be
clone
without
clamps,
Jus
apply som e glue to th e m iters and the
s pl in es , a nd, push them together ,
To complete the fram e, I cleaned
IIp
th
m atjng ed ges o fth. tw o halv es w ith th e ji
show n on page 17, and glued them to
gether, Finally, [rounded over the ou ts ide
edge s with a V corner-round bit.
PJ.l'IVOOD INSERT, T he c lo ck movemen
is ;).ctu ally m ou nted to a p lyw Ood inser
that's cut to fit i ns id e t he octagonal fr ame
y o u r e u s in g -t h e
3341X
move men t from
JI11l.1l0)) SUllivan yo u
must -al so
cu t
4 Y -
-diameter hole
,in th e p lywood in se rt,
M OU NT ru e t'RAM E, Now the o cta go na
frame ca n be mounted to the case w ith I
fl at -head screws, l1 0 g ev a g oo d fitove r th
do or f rame, t also
screw ed
the o cta go na
Ir ame
to
th e d oo r fram e (goin) ' in fr om th
back), see Fig, 7,
MOLDING
STIlO 'S ,
O nce t~e
frame
is
i
p la ce . mo lding
st rips (H~ arc added to th
bottom hal f of the case, To make thes e
half-round st rips, l rounded both edges o
a piece of waste w ith a 0 / , , comer-ro un d
bit. Then 1
tipped
off 1t ' 'i -thick $ta ip t
get the.bali -ro und molding.
MOUNTINGTIJE OII.-'ND
IJEzeL.1 'hc~-e
a little han d-work involved in moun tin
l
C O R ,N E
lt0UN.o ON--
eO TH lOG ES
- ~ /. Pll 'WOOO
6
c u r H A U .tOUND
MOtb)N G
to
,m
A FT Y M OU NTING
O c r A j l < . . A M .
SCIIEW TO f \
FROM 8A CK
IO
,,
SE
ftGU RE
6' ,.-
ND VtEW
G
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their
ownmounting bracke t
that:sscI'e.wed
to
the
to p
of the case.
FINISHlN{:. I used
Wac JD anisll O il
to
fi n is h t his c lo ck c as e. The n ic e th in g 8bou~
this oil is thatit can
be
used to J j J I a l l Y gaps
between all of
those mi l;er~d
joints. Apply
a
liberal
amount of oil and sand with
220 -gJ'it
silicon carbide 1\.P~l'.This creates
a gO OI) that iU s t i legaps (and the po res ill
the oak W hen the gaps are filled, Wipeoff
the excess goop, let i t dry (2 4 ho ursk.end
add another coat oil.
7
1 2 _ . \ . ;
F IG UR E
Mllfl OUTSIDEEOGE-
STaA1GHr 81 l
MT~R
ENOS
R Sa
ROUND
O v E R
fOOE
'1GUlf
DET4I\ A
1
\ ,VQODSMITH
the bezel: LWOm ortis es m us t b e c ut.
O n e m ortise is t he siz e a nd d epth o f the
h ingeon lhe bra ss
frame
of the b ez el.
The
second mort ise- for
the
catch -
must
go
all the way ehrough the frame.
S'ee,Fig.
S. I
centered the bezel on th e Irame an d
marked the position of these mortises.
T hen I cut them out w ith
8
chisel.
T he last step is t o m ake a
little
wooden
latch t o ho ld t he beze l ca tch. F ig. 9 . This is
just
cu t
fr om
a piece
of scrap
and
m oun ted
with a
0 / 0
flat-head
screw .
TH PN ULUM OOR
The glass door
that
fits over the pendulum
is
probably
th e
mOSLdifficult
part of
this
PI Ojecl. The p ieces are smal l La begin \\~th
but
th en
tbere'sa
r ab be t c ut o n
eaeh.skleto
make them even smaller.
To
m ake
this door, l rippedseveral
small
strips V o x
10/,.',
see Detail ). in
Fig . 10.
One
e dg e of
each strip is rounded over.
and
then a
v
x W ' deep rabbet is cue below the
rounded-ever edge. (This rabbet will be
tbe
Inside
edge
o f lh e
door.)
Noll'
yo u
have to
CUl
pieces n'om these
s tr ip s to
fit. th e
d oo r tr ame . This
takes a
little
measu ri ng , and a
lot
o f lu ck. Here's
ho w
I went about it.
I knew
r
wanted tlie doorto over-lap the
f l . - a m e by V . . (The rabbet o n th e outside of
the
d 1
is v
wide, bu t
the overlap is
on ly
v. . because 1 w a nte d to le av e v ., / fo r clear.
ance.)
Goinl5
back 10 the
case,
l marked a
line
y . from the
inside
edge
of
the
door
frame,
Wherever
the marked
line crossed
a joint line. that was the length of each
piece
fo r the
door,
Once th e
pieces
have b ee n
cut to
le ngth,
grooves
~
outed fo r
the
splines ,
and
splines
are cui to fiL
the grooves, 1 01 '
assembly, t j~door is small enougb to
allow hand-pressure gluing at all joint
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WOODSMITH
SPLINE GROOVE. CONSIDERATIONS
Now that the miters are cut a ~'Oove
must be cut for the splines that join the
pieces together, These grooves can be cu
on either a table saw 01' radial arm saw
However, it's (iifficult to
CUL
a stopped
gr60ve- e$peci'ally in narrow pieces,
There is another way. Evel' since we
buill the renter table (shown in IVoPdsmilh
No,
20) ,
I've come to rely 011 it as all easy
,(1 accurate way to cut spline groove.~-
especially if the groove must be stopped.
After experimenting with thi .. cype o
operatic a lit~tc, I found three helpfu
additions to the router table,
SF-C ONDAIIYTO ',
The outer table's top
is designed wivh a lY,-diametel' opening
for the router bit, Lmade a secondary top
by dl.llillg a \4 hole in a piece of SCI'lI
J1 1so11 i e
This p is temporarily clamped
to the old top to provide a smooth surface
on all sides of the bit (which is neces
sal )t when working' with very small
workpieces).
eRRID
BITS, Since we usually work
with hardwoods, l dug deep in
Illy
pocke
and nought a l4 , carbide-tipped straight
router bit. Although this bit is expensive.
it's excellent for cutting spline grooves.
UXUAAlIY FENCE, Wilen cutting
spline groove in a cross miter, it's very
helpful to clamp a highel' fence to the ad
justable fence on the router table, I just
use a 4 stl'il) of;y, plywood, see ~'ig, 2,
1'101'n end miter, you'll need a fence
that's beveled at the same angle as the
miter, Here Lsimply bevel-rip the edge o
a 2x< ,see ~'ig, 4,
We used miter and spline pieces have been cut to rough
JOInery on every project in this length, Then the first cut fo
issue, That alone should indi - the miter is made. This
CU
cate it 's (Il lite ,I,,'ersatile joint, clears away most of the waste
Miters can solve a lot of prob- on only one end of each piece, I
lam s - especially on any type use the stop to make this cut so
of frame that requires special all pieces are cut to the same
cuts along the edge, length,
POI instance, you can make - 'Phe second cut is a tr imming
molding cuts or rabbets - operatlon. 1 move the stop
either on the inside 0 outside abont, 1 1 closer to the blade
edge - b o ro the pieces are - _ and trim off the very end o
mitered, This eliminates many ... each piece, Since only one side
of the headaches associated of
th e
blade is in contact with
with other Irame joil1t..~ (like
a
the wood, it has less tendency
mortise and tenon), to pull
0)'
push, an d the cut i
However, m iters do have ----------- --- ---------- clealler an d m o re
accurate
their bad side,
In
fact,
C I'OSS
miters (CUt the cut is being made,
01 '
push il awy, 'rhls Next,
r
mark the final length on the
across the face of a board) and end miters Cj'eelling ~hrows the cut out or line, To oll1el' end of each piece, and repeat lhe
(a bevel cut at the end of a board) are gel aroun8 this problem, use the follow-
tWO-ClIt
procedure This time, both cuts
probably the two worst joints in wood- it)g procedure.
t
be lined up by using the kerf in the
working, Pirst, J cut all the workpieces to rough fence as a guide,
The problem witb both of these joints is length - about l longer than needed fo)'
thaI ~'ou'l'ejoinillg end-grain to end-grain, the Iinal length. Then r set the miter g-auge
And no $:lue (no matter ho w strong it is) to the proper angle,
will hold this kind of joinL together FE:o ICEAND STep, When working Ob a
(for long), table saw, I attach. a plywood fence to th e
However, there is a simple solution: a miter gauge, 'rhe,fenceslIpports the work
spline, If a groove is cut in both mitered piece all the way to the blade, and also
pieces, a spline can be inserted to pushes the wasteout of the way,
strengthen the joint consideyably , The
spline not only adds mechanical strength,
but it also provides a good glue surface
liong grain to longgrain) between the sides
of the I\','ooe and the spline,
Yet, this solution creates another prob
lem: How do you cut the grooves fo,' the
splines , , ' accurately? In fact, howdo you
cui the mile, .. accurately?
SmlNG THE ANGLE
'l'he first step for euuing a miter is to set
the angle of the cut, The accuracy of yow'
setting, however, is limited
b y
the ac
curacy of the markings on your saw, Most
miter gauges and radial-arm saws leave
much to be desired.
To geL an accurate setting Luse an ad
ju:;table protraetor, ,(See Talking Shop in
W ood /md t1 1 No,
20,)
Tllis type of pro
tractor can easily be adjusted to Iracrions
ofa degree. and Lthe
saw blade, It's the nature of a saw b la de.to
either pull the workpiece imo the blade as
_JoinerY: iter S~line
A M ITER W ITH A SECRETPARTNER
To prevent the creeping mennoned
above, I fasten a .IOp block to che fence,
see Fig,
1.
The SLOpis helpful in three
3),5 ,
the saw blade tends ze push the
workpiece away, the stop
pt-eve.1U ;
ib.
ff
lhe blade tends to pull the workpiece, you
call counteract this action by pushing the
workpiece toward Ul'estop, Also, the stop
is very handy 1'0), cutting several pieces to
the same length,
MAKI:
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CrTl'IN(;
1 '
P.Sl'l.I:-1F.,To cut ,.olidwood
spline, the
Ii
rs
t cut
is
made by selling the
rip fence the
proper
distance fl'Omtbe
inside or the blade, Thllerly.
brush some glue
01 1
the mitered ends and in
the spline grooves. Theil aprlv a very thin
co at to
the spline, Now just p;.sh the joint
toge,hel' with hand 1 'CSSlU'e,
\ ait a
minute ... you
mean
OU
don';
damp the pteees tOl(cther?
Clamping mitered pieces is difficult at
best. and u su al ly e au ... more problems
than it solves. Besides, the strength of a
miter-and-splinajoim. i~t where
the t\VO
mitered ends meet. Rather, it's the spline,
~Iucd into the grooves on each mile. thnt
supplies all the strength.
The spline should tit in the groov es with
a good Irietion lit. Then. as glue is applied,
the spline
w i ll p ic k
up moisture and
swell,
milking the joim very tight .. In fact. aCLer
about
second$ it'. IIlmosLimpossible
L o
gellh. joint apart. evon ifyou wanled 10,
HOUl' 4
RGURE
;- G R A IN O U t E C T IO N
of the fence with the left edge llned up with
the start line, Then slowly push the
mitered
surface onto the bit, The bit ill
make
a
sliding CUI until the miter is resting
flat on the router table. but it'~ usually not
a problem if you're using a ~~.bit.
CUnlNG THESPLINES
Now all you have to do itiCut the splines 10
fit
the gl'OOVC$.'or gl'eate 1 strength, the
spline. should be cut so the grain is guing
across the joint line. Cutting this type of
spUne is
\ el )
similar to cutting
n rabbe t
on
the end of
a
board - except in this
ease.
the waste i~ the part you
WHIIL,
This i tt ll~U~lI precurious operation
because the lilly waste piece (which is the
spline you want to keep). usually gets
caught by the blade and I. hurled across
tbe room, never to be seen ajr,lin,
After fighting wich thi. aggra ation.
Ted (our Design Director) came up with a
procedure to solve this problem,
\VOODSMlTH
ROUTING A SPLINE GROOVE
Before cutting a spline groove. mark the
face side of
all
pieces with an
X .
If the
X
side isalways
placed
against the fence.
you'll be
UTe
the grooves on both pieces
line up properly,
1'IIROI:GH GROOVES.
Cut ting a Ih.'Ough
groove (from one odge to the other) is
relatively easy on both types of miters.
Simply place the
X
side of each
work -
piece against the
fence,
and make the cut.
The workpiece should always move from
right to left. \\1lh this direction of feed the
rotation of the route.' bit forces the work
piece against the fence .
sro r-r -en
GROO ~:S.
The
first step for
cutting a stopped groove is to mark where
you want the groove to stop 01 1 the mitered
end, Then measure the distance from this
mark to the pointed end of the miter.
This second measurement is used to
mark
start
and stop lines on the OULel'
table - one to the Icfl. and one to Ihe right
of the router bit.
se c
Pigs, 2 and
a ,
The actual cutting of a stopped groove
Pl1':;I ntSa problem, Since the X side
must always be ajr,linstthe fence, the ril(ht
and left ends of the workpiece are cut in
slightly different ways,
Yeah,
but which is the light
end
nnd
which is the left end?
Jr
you hold the mitered piece so the long
points are on top, the right end is the ri~ht
end. andtbe left end i~the left end, (This i.
the only way I eould figure out how
to
explain
what foUows,)
CIlOSS~)ITEII.To cut
a
stopped gl'OOVCn
a cross-mitered Illeeo,
I
make the firijl cut
01 1
the rigbtend of the workpiece, stopping
at th e stop' l ine, a s s ho wn in Fig . 2.
To make the cut on the left end. I posi
tion the pointed end of the miter directly
ever the start line. Then 1510\ 1) lu l lge
th~ workpiece onto the bit. and finish the
cut moving to Ihe loft.
se e
Fig, 3,
t:Nl>MITER, For
an
end miter, both cuts
ar e
l ade the
same
way
as the cross
miter.
except a beveled fence must be used, For
the right end, ju.,t feed the workpiece from
right to left, stopping at the stop line,
But for the other
end
(the left end). the
wo.'klliece must be plunged. Hold the
workpiece fi''JI.lyagnin'Llho beveleel edge
IGUlf 2
AUXtl.WV
nNe.
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WOODSMITH
0
This little Lazy SU8;lnshould knock some
of the dust orf your router and put it to
good usc. I used
router for
two different
operations on this project: first, to cut the
exposed spline joints for the f''lime, and
then to CU t the fnune into a circle.
However, have to admit that the
router needs a little help in order to get
this project under way.
To cut the ~ oove. for the splincA (lhat
join the eight, pieces for the frame to
gether). 1 used the router table shown in
lI'oodsmilll No. 20. I also u . < O O the new
Scars eombinatien edge guide and tram
mel point attachment
(:-
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OODSM ITH
5
A djllsl tra mm el p oin t
10
r ou t i ns id e
circle, Star 1 i 8: id e o f frame altd
S/OIO/lllVork
0111 10
diameter Q Formica
iuser 1 1 8 ; 1 1 9 lIIetllod desel ibed il l text,
Adj 4t
IIoa ,, cl poi t
to ro ut
a
1
dia'lteler ci,'cle
011
olllside edge,
ouier
bit ill /li/ot holealld make SllCCCS
s tv e pas8681(nUIo l l t. ide was te
breaksfre.
. 6
II ~
lh O tfW
_r fo aonO _ A I
FEt O
lVltNlAIlf
l I fl aonOM
4 .,
7 DtAMflUl
CUT.Af t tc MA TCH
THICKNESS Of INSEllf
AGrkersStore
catalog,
2 1 8 1
Indushi.1 Blvd., Rogel'S,
MN 553 74 ,
7/24/2019 Woodsmith - 021
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W O OD SM lTH
I~.
t sv, liS'
H
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t), )I:
3 ,,.,,10 48
. .
I
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,v. . . . . 1/. 12
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F
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F
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8
B
I
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Mt o
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p
p IG
C
C
J J
A Inner Frvme Frtf8k (6) y'....
C 2V 9
8 Inner Frame s id OJ (6)
V i .
)t24 12
C Inner From. Pcnel
' 0 / 1 )C 8 4 15A1
o Corner Frt/Bk [4}
0 /1 .
2V 26
E Corner Sides (4)
'.1111 *_26
FApron. (2)
'0 /,.
l(Sy: . - lO 'A
G Filler StrIps (3)
cui to
fit
H Top/etm Framo (6) '0 /1 .
l
2%: 21
Y,
I Topl8tm Frame (6)
0 /1 .
lc
2~ - 141/~
J Top Ponel
V,. l( lOY._ 17/.
K 80S> F,,/8k (21
10 /1 . l 2:tA _ 21 7;;
L BCdeSides (2)
' : V t . l
2. - 14
M Door Frome Sliles (2)
' t . )(10/.. - 20''''
N Door Frome RoU. (2)
10/6 X
lA -16
o Side Ftame Stiles (4)
1 0 /,. x
1. - 20V,
P Side Frome Rail.l (4) 'o /i .
:It
to/.
9
Q
Drawor Frop'
1 0 / 1
40.16
R Drower SiC{o~ I,
)t
3 / t
2
S Drawer Back
lh :It 2 14
T Drawer
Bottom cut to
fi t
U Plywood Back
Ix 162Sh
CUTTING D IAGR AM
ATERIA LS LIST
1 2
D es igning this Curio Cabinet calleil fo r
what seemed
to
be eonta-adietion. I,t
should have
8
light
and
aky
reeling
so it
doe sn 't o v erw he lm the co nte nts t al are
o n display. Yet, it should be
substantial
enough so th e contents seem protected,
\V ith that in m ind , 'fed designed th is
cabinet around a
whole
series
of
wooden
fl-am es -
some
w ith w oo den panels , and
som e w ith glass. (fbc net e1Tec~ 'is , I th ink,
u nice little display case.
O nce w e go t the d es ign wo rk o ut o J the
w ay, w e go t down to the fu n part: the
w o o dw o rking .
TH E IN SID E FRA MES
s ta rt ed w ith the th ree frames o n the
in s id e
of the
ca bine t.
and
wo rk ed
my
w ay
o ut. Each o fth e ;e fram es is b uilt the same
way: with miter and spl ine joints at each
corner, see l ig . 1.
JOIN1 )lG 'rH ~ FRA~IE f; .
First ,
I
r ipped
eno ugh w o o d 214 wide for the three
frames (six I(mg
and
s ix sho rt pieces ). an d
CUt
each p iece to . Ough length. Theil I
mitered both ends of each piece at 45 so
t he I ro n t/ ba ck pieces (A ) were 1 9 long,
alld the s id e. p ieces (B) were 1 2 long,
Ne)(L,
spl ine
grooves are
cut in the
m itered end s of each piec e. 'l'he easiest
\\lay to cut these grooves is on a touter'
fable. (Sec pate 8 fom o re o n
this
tech
nique) . A lle r th e g ro o v es
are.
cut, sp lines
are cut to fit th e g ro o ves .
TIlE BOTTO .\ 'lA M E.
The
bo tto m Iram e
rece iv es a pa ne l, s o
x ~ . . g ro o ves are
cut along the in s id e 'edges of each
franre
pieee. Fig. S.
Since
the pa nel (C )
I Q
this fram e can be
seen
through the glass d o o r, J d ecid ed to
build it o ut o f so li d w o o d . After I glu ed up
enough w oo d (or the panel, lrimmed it to
sise
so the
dimensions
w ere y r .
less
than
the grooveto groove measurements of the
f rame, s ee
Fig. 3.
(This v gap is neces
sary 1' 01 '
e~llansion/contl'action
of
solid.
w oo d panels.)
Next,
tonguesare cu t o n all
foul'
ed ges o f
the panel to.fiuin the greoves in the frame.
I cut thes e
V
x W ' to ngues o n the ro ur er
[a ble w itti a ,'aBOOt bit.
,V hen glu ing -uJ l this fram e, be sure th e
splines ar e p o si ti on ed so they d o n 't in te r
fer e
with the
pa nel , see 'F ig . 2. H o w ever ,
the pa nel is not glued in the gro o v es - it
m us t be ft.-eeto flo at.
Olrl'SlI)ET(lNCUES.The last step is to cut
a \4 x
1 1 .
to ngu e on bhe o uts id e perimeter
o r all three fr ames . O nce again , I used . the
ro uter table and a ra bbet b it to cut these
to ngues .
IN SIG HT, BUT ()UT OF HARM S REACH
Curio Cabinet
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:~P_OFR ,S
FLUSHWI END
OF CORNE Jt P IE CE
F IGU R E 6
13
OODSM{TH
FAO N T/S AC K
C O R NE R P IE C E
..J'
I ,,~
I
1 0
QURn;~
R I
e lf
~~. r-e-
J.. -/ '-,
i
I
A ; U r 5 ~ ~ : . : ~ ~
l
I
r-r-
Y .. I
r
GROO V E ;\ f C EN tE R
3
~.
I tENON . ;; TO
tt TH ICK .... .. CEN tER
-L,-
I
-
-;-I:::::==: ::I==== ~-
,
I. y. GjtOOVE . DEEP.) U
lLO\ Y 1 . fOR EX P NSION -:;:; '- ---1
fi G U R E 4
P NE l
..:;; , /.
GROOVE ON STOCK .....;;::::
~ ~~
I. . . . .. DEE~
1
1 81 11
//.
. -
FIGUAfl ~
1----2 ---~loo
.
~~
-
P N El
I
~
y
-
v /.i TONGUE~
- C
THE C B INE T FR ME
The, three inside frames are held together
with the next layer of frames - the eight
Corner pieces for the cabinet, The foul'
Ii'ontlback corner pieces
C D }
ar e-ripped to a
width of
2 ,
Thaiour side
corner
pieces
(E) are ripped to a width of l V . . All eight
pieces are
2 6
long,
SHOIJl.DERE) QU,\R'T>RROUND,
The foul'
fl'Ontiback pieces (D) are.joined to the side
pieces with a simple rabbet joint, But to
give
lIiis
jo in t a
little,mo.-e
cl ass,
1 made
a
shouldered
quarter-round cut
On the
Oll t
side comer of each piece,
Next, a rabbet is cut.on the inside corner
to accept the side corner piece (E), see Fig.
4. The rabbet should be cut so the side
piece (E) sticks out to form a shoulder
equal to the shoulder on the front piece.
see detail in l ig, 6,
$IDESANOAI'RON, The next step
I S
LOcut
tvO
aprons
(F) (,0 fit
between the side
c orn er p ie ce s
(E), These aprons a.'ajoined
to th e
sides with
a m ortise and
tenon joint,
TfY Qll re n ot p artiiculal. ly
fired
up
to
cu t a
mortise and
tenon you ould
achieve
the
same effect by cutting- -wide stopped
grooves on the inside edges of the side.
pieces and in the end of the apron, and join
fh~ two pieces with a spline,
OAD OES, FiI.ally, dadoes are cut in the
eigh~
corner
pieces and the two aprons to
mate with the tongues that
are a ll , ad y c ut
on .the inside frames,
The dadoes aCthe
tA l >
and bottom of each
corner piece arc cut so the face of the
f r ames
i~
u shw i th
tbe ,OJ)
and
bottom
ends
of each
corner
piece, When cutting
these dadoes,
uided Ihe pieces with the
miter gauge and used bhe rip fence as a
stop. Then when the grooves in the aprons
are cut,
1
used the same setting on the lip
fence so these grooves would be lined up,
The dado fOI' Lh ' middle frame (which
supports t he d r awe r ) is cut so it's centered
4 1 1 . . . down fl Om the center of the top dado, '
ASSEMBLY,
Before assembling all of
these
pieces, I
finish sanded than. - it's
8
whole lot easier to do it
now
than
nftel
assembly, Than
I
started assembly
by
gluing the aprons F) arid the sides
E
together,
Now these ~Wtlassemblies, plus the foul'
ti:ontlback
corner
pieees (0)
a re a ll glued
to
the
th ree
Inside , fr am e s, 1
apptied glue to
the dadoes and rabbets in each piece and
added them one by one, This whole assem
bly
is
held together'
with
band clamps. (Be
sure
to
che.ck
the
sq uar e
of
th ee
cabinet as
the band
clamps
are tightened.)
FILLflRS'TRrps.
At this point the cabinet
is;;tarting to lookpretty good - except for
the tongues sticking OUL on the fron.t and
back edges of the Inside frames, These
to ng ue s a re covered with 611el strips,
Th e f ill er strips (G ) that fi t on the tcp
and bottom frames should be the same
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WOODSMITH
.,... QUARrEl
ROUND W fT H
SHOU lDER
.. a.l ..
Fh S CREW
---I-:
';'1;ER1T~~JTO\PANEl
~ 1- .......
c ~ ~
o f l a e
r ?
.:tLl,~. 0 =
: r -
'M
lASE FRAME
r -
K IC KaO A R D BA SE
thickness as the frames, However. th
strip on the middle frame should be flll
with the tOPof the frame and extend 1
below
the
bottom of the frame, Fig,
7,
TOP AND BOnOM FRAMES
O nc e
agnin you have
to
make
two mo
fl-amo~joined with
a m ite r and
spline,
O
of these frames is for the top urthe cabine
while the other frame is part Ofth. base
the cabinet.
Since both frames
arc
the ..
am e
$i20
started by ripping four long pieces (H) an
four short pieces (1) to 2)',- wide, Th
length of each of these pieces is shown
FigUl' S, That is. these are the lengths
c\,e,'ythinR has gone perfectly up to now
In rcality. these pieces are cut to fit th
actual
dimension
of
the cabinet,
l he
bottom
frame ba s
the most critic
(it because of the way the shouldere
quarter-round (its around the perimeter
the cabinet. see Fig, 13, l got the measure
ments for this frame. and used it
standard
for the top frame,
)Ieasure the width
and
depth of th
cabinet
as
it stands. Add the width of bo
quarter-round cuts (this should be a tot
of
1-), lind
then
ad d
an extra 0 /, : , This exi
i~Ol' the space between the quarter
round cut and Ihe perimeter of the cabine
Now, all eillh pieces for both the
bouo
and top frames can be cut to thes
InC Iisu remen ts.
01'
f'1( )'
E, Aftel' the pieces for the to
n1lme are cut to length and the ends a
mitered, stopped spline grooves must b
cut on each mitered end, Then 1 4 . x
groo\'C$ are cut on the inside edges.
Next, a panel (J) is buill to (it inside th
frame, The panel is glued up of solid woo
ancl then cut to size 1 1 , ; smaller than th
Jl'I'Oovcto groove measurement, l~in
V I ~x 1 1 / tongues.arecut to iiI in the groove
in
th~
f,.. me. Fig, 9 ,
Bero,'.
attaching the
top
Irnme,
th
dl WCI' runners should be screwed in
place, Fig, 7. Then 3 IIi x Vi rabbet ., c
around the entire back side of the cabin
for the ,. plywood back.
1I(I1TOMPRA~IE.:\0 back to the botto
frame, The four pieces for the bouo
Ji me are already cut 10 length and m
tered,
so
all that's left is to cut the .toPile
spline I(I'oo\'es, Before assembling th
rnuno, rabbets are cut along one edge
uceept the base
(kickboard ).
TII~: AS;;,
At last there's somethin
ea~y, The base is just four boards (M an
N)joinl'd with a miter and spline. After it
assembled, the bottom frame isglued on
it, Then this assembly is screw,..
1
to th
bottom of the cabinet. Fig, 13,
GLASS DOOR AND SIDE PANELS
The glass door and the two side panels a
miter-and-spline f,'ames, (\Ve wouldn
want, to break the monoton), at lhi~ point
CORNER ...
RGU II: 13
1
@ ~ : : : : : .~ .
= , : : ; ~
< >
r , - .
TONGUE
,
1 4
RGUIE l l
,
l -
i---2()lr.-
TOPVtfWOFlASt
FtOV Rf It
r
1_ N]I _-I
2 'STO' GROOVE'It fROMEND
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ROUND I
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I
GROOVE
ii
OlE'
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.- ._ ttA88T FOa lASE
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---2,-- -- 1 O
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OUI\I tTER
ROUNOW'THIH-t11
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(
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t~
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,
. . .
AGUaE,
If. JI I .. OROOV I
ro
M A TC H T ON G UE
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PL YW OOD
RE STS ON
10
GLASS fRA MES
IN MAGE
@
Wd oD N s t O . F OR G l A S S
RGURE19
Y ? i U A R T t R O U N O
WlfHsHOULDE.
~~ - ==O=A A =W= =~=F =~O =N=r ==~_ q ~~
i 5
to
CO~NEl
Et il
\ r: S f f O uL O at
2
r .6 1
/. QUARTk ROUND
Wi ll - SHOUlDP.
P )
FIGUR~
oooa fRAME
_I
8
,fIGURE l7
SIO~
GLA SS FRAME
I 1 1
~
D O O R F RA ME
~ y
QUARTER ROUNO
wrta
SHOULDER
ON 80tH EDGES
J
0
I
Tl~ :@
I ) SPLINE V THICIe
II
WIOf
fiGURE 14
1 .6 1
\ ' OO l)SM1TH
Although the basic construction of these
frames is exactly like all the rest of the
frames fhere are coupte
o f
little changes,
A ll 12 pieces for thew frames are ripped
to
a
width of 10/,, and
cut
to rough length.
Theil aU pieces are CUt to final length (mi
tered) to fit the openings in the cabinet.
(To get these pieces to fit, measure the
openings and add. total of
W -
this is
so
the frames overlap the openings
It ,
on
each side.)
SPLINE GROOVES.Here-are the change s.
On these frames the spline
grooves-are cut
all the way through (from edge to edge),
r u l 1
they're poSitioned off-center so they
don't interfere with the molding cuts on
the face of tbe frames.
li'irst, [ made the moldin ; cuts on th e
inside edges of all these pieces with a \I .
quarter- round bit. leaving a \ 1 0 shoulder.
Then cut a v . wide by % deep rabbet
below the
molding cut Fig 15
The spline grooves
can now be aligned
and cut ~ot.heydon't trim ofI an.)' part of
the quarter-round cut. Ne.xt, the splines
are cut and
the
frames
are assembled.
After th e glue is dl,,', the same type of
v . o
quarter round
cut is made around the
outside edges of each (J ,me.
RABBETS.
The rabbets on. the outside
edgeofthe door fra me and the side frames
are slightl;\' different, On the side frames
che.rabbets arecut.so the frames
fi t.
tightly
in.the openings. 's best to sneak up on the
cuts to get a snug fit. Then these n-ames
are glued into the openings.
The rabbets on the door
frame
al'e cut
K i
wide so there's enough clearance for the
hinges (Fig. 17). and so the door can be
opened
easily .
1' 11 CLASS.Once the [l-nmes l ir e bu il t,
they need some glass. 1 took the frames to
a local store to have the glas s cul to size.
While they were at it, had them cut a
glass shelf 1 0 . inside the cabinet.
The glass shelf is mounted with small
L-bracket shelf supports. The glass for the
doors and side panels is mounted with V i)(
v .t stops.
'I'll ~ ORA'WER. The last step on this
cabinet is to build the drawer. The.drawer
Iront is lipped, which means there are
rabbets on all Iour inside edges. Once the
drawer f ont has been rabbeted (see li'ig.
19).
th e
sides al1 joined to the fl:on~with a
half-blind rabbet
an d
dado joint. Then the
back is joined to the sides with a nOI11181
rabbet and dado.
Before assembllng the drawer, 1 cut one
more
shouldered
quartar-uound cut
around
the perlmeter of the drawer front.
FINISJlING. To finish this cabinet
r
applied two coatsof,\1iIWI(I< 'Valntlt stain.
When the stain was thoroughly dry,
brushed on three coats
of
Hope:s Tun g O i
Va 7t;sll This oil finish has just enough
varnish in it to add a gloss to the-finish. and
it's very easy to apply,
7/24/2019 Woodsmith - 021
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WOODSMITH
for the mirror.
lIiRROH.
The easiest way to cut the mir
ror
is
to have someone else do it. [took the
Irame to a local
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17
OODSMITH
AUG RUSH
WlTHPlYWOOD
TRIM
OFf
DeBS
~ 'h .n y ou 're cu ttin g m ite,'> fo r
an octagonal (eighr-sided)
fl'lime
the chance for error in
creases dramatically. Each
J)icce I Ql the frame raquil e ij
L W Q cuts at 22Y - fill n i o t
of 16,iICI.d ens at this angle.
t
),OUI' set.ting is off just
~,deg,e .
the
combined gnp
would be abou; l t
thejoillts are oft'.yo u could
recut all the mite rs. and proba
bl
wind up even farther on
the other direction. Instead
some
minor
:uljustment~
can bt
made dur ing assembly. First. I
$ Itll~pieces to sre the r to fo rm
two halves of the octagon.
t
would
he
nice
if the four
open
ends of these two halves
fit
to
gether perfectly. But that
I'arely happens.
As lung as the gap between
these two halves is nut IIW I
lhan \ , , corrections can be
made fo r a p er fe ct
fit.
1 u s e the
jig shown in Fig. l
First 1 I;P a clean edge on a
pi
of plywood. Then I lay
the assembled halt-octagon
face rlown and tack the pl~r.
wood 10it. (This means the nail
h oles w ill b e o n th e b ack sid e o f
Illn.an d
you .hould ;nd up
with
a p er
fcd tit.
TACKHAlf.OctAGON
fOPlYWOOD _
FROM8O OM
iter i~_
JOINING AN OCTAGON
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WOODSM1TH
8
\Ve'ye received dozens of requests for
lathe projects and we've had lot ofdiscus
sions about what kind of project
to
do. We
finally decided to IUI'n a bowl (faceplate
turning) because it's the one project that
can
be accomplished
start-to-finish
on
a
lathe, anel stands alone when it's done.
Turning this fruit bowl requires several
basie lurninp; techniques. Yet. it doesn't
require years of experience or any really
special tools or equipment.
The bowl is designed
with a
shallow
slope on the
walls
so you can turn it with
out a lot of the problems associated
with
deep. sided bowls. AI ;o. the unusually
wide rim creates an appearance of very
thick walls ... eliminating the need ior
absolutely uniform wall thickness. (The
w nU s
can beany thickness you like without
affecting the final appearance of the bow ')
Anel finally, the base (also turned on the
faceplate) is fl>atoned to the bowl with a
round (turned) tenon. This is a practice
often used in turned projects that have
8
pedestal 01 base .
CUTTIN() S. $CI(;\J'ING. Before getting to
the details on this bowl, I'd like to mention
that most ofthe work is
done
with a cutting
(rather than scraping) action. Although
scraping the bowl would have
been
much
easier (there's really not much skiU re
quired in using'
t
scraper). it would have
taken much longer to turn, and the final
finish would have been poor at best.
The speed with which a bowl can be
turned
by
cutting, and the finish that can
be obtained are really enough reasons to
learn the techniques required to cut with
a
gouge. UL the real thrill is in seeing al l
those shavings on the top of the bench that
a re the result of cutting.
Now that
I ve reco mmended a
cutting
action, I should admil th at I used a com
bination of cutting and scraping on this
bowl. y usingijcrnpel'S for finishing work,
you can nClUlIlI~'improve the finish left by
the gouge. And there
a re
limes
(a s
in cut
ting the underside of the rim) that scraping
is either the only
way
possible
to
make
a
cut, or it may just be safer.
T H . : TOOLS . I used only 6ve tools to turn
the fruit bowl. (See page 22 for a detailed
explanation of the tools used.) A
1(,
shallow spindle gouge (that's been re
ground) does the ml\iority of
tbe
turning.
A domed semper is used after tbe gouge
for cleaning up end grain problems. A t
light scraper is used to form the underside
of the rim. A V a - skew is used to cut the
bead In the pedestal. And finally, parting
tool is used
t o
cut tho round tennon,
TRUING THEOWL L NK
I used a I .spindle gouge to turn the bow
blank true with the center. Any gouge
wil
work for truing the blank. but I f ind the
small
y .
gouj:tcworks well.
Position
the
short tool rest so that it's
the same height as the center point of tbe
bowl blank,
and
adjust it
so
that it's
par al
leI to tho edge of the block and about I . to
\4 . I I Y
from the widest point.
(It's
best
to rotate the lalhc by hand to be sure the
toolrest cle.,~ t,hebowl blank on
all
sides.)
Because of the large size of this bowl
and the fact that it hasn't been trued ith
the center yet. you'll want to set the speed
of the lathe
as
slow
as
possible. Until the
bowl blank's outside edge has been trued,
it's also a good idea to bring the tail stock
up to the blank to steady it. see Fig.
To true-up the blank. start the cut with
the handle of the gouge very low. and
slowly raise it until the cutting edge JUS
begins to CUt,see Fig.
Then slide the
gouge across the edge. with the U facing
straight up for the entire pass.
Until there i. surface for the gouge's
bevel to rest on, the culling action will
seem a little rough.
uta~
the bowl blank
rue UOWI. IlLANK. To turn this bowl
you11need a blank 12 quare by3~ thick.
The first step is to cut 7 pieces out of 4
(lY. -thick) lumber. Each piece is 3~
wide by 12 long. All
7
pieces are lamina ted
(face to fnl'e)to fo rm the 12 -squareblank.
(The bowl in the photo is glued a little
differently because was USing small
scra ps
fom around the
shop.)
After the blank is glued-Up, it's planed
smooth on Lheface that
will
be
attached
to
the faceplate. i hllllly, to make the initial
truing-up Mfer. I cut the bowl blank to a
1I~. diametercircle on a band saw
Once the block has been band-sawn,
attach a 6 diameter plywood disk (the
same
sizeas the faceplate) to the block and
let the assembly dry for 12 hours.
SHOP NOTE.
Because
1
used hard maple,
the bowl blank was extremely heavy. So [
glued the plywood disk directly to the bowl
blank without the usual paper insert.
r
felt
by doing this,
i
would achieve a stronger
bond without having to worry about the
paper separating while
1
was turning.
\Vbcn the glue is completely dry, the
faceplate is mounted to the plywood disk
with
14 w oodscrew s.
Then the faceplate
is attached
to
the head stock of the lathe.
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V O O D S M IT H
Using th .
\1,.
light scraper, fo rm tl,t
ntde l 8idc of the
lip
by making
l el 1l
lig/rt passes. U e a partial template to
clteck
1 /t 1 1
sh41)Cof Ih e
/.ip
~llAm.
2
Ro ta te t lt e J W l l d l e s u from M 6:
starlillg posiJion to th e J : OO posilioll.
f ol lo ,q j lf J t he a rc s h o w l I
Slightly
r ol l t lt e
gouge ov{J)'as It p roceeds tl rroug /r the Cllt,
PO S IT lOfo i
etten isn't the cast' . Several things may be
causing problems. The m o s t common prob
lem is that the gouge isn't sharp. There's
really no other way to PUt this,
it isn't
sharp
t
won't work.
Another nullo.' problem may be that the
bevel o(the gouge isn't rubbing against the
w o o d correctly. If the handle
~
aised too
high, and the bevel isn t rubbing. the
gouge
w i l l
digin and
sc a re
the, .. unnerve
)'OU to say the least.
Then there's another posSibiliLy. If the
gouge cuts for only part of a pass, then Lhe
solution may be to reposition the tool rest.
As the shape of the bowl develops, try
moving the to ol Tes t so It's somewhat
parallel
to
the side of the bowl. This should
make it easier for the gouge
to
follow the
profile of tho bowl and continue cutting.
Lfacontinuous cut seems impossible,
try
cutting for just one h al f the length of the
profile. Then make another, separate cut
to complete the pass. As long as the ridge
formed bel ween the two
C U W l
isn't too
large, it can be removed by the scraper
during the finish passes.
SHAPING THE COV ED liP
For now you only have to remove enough
material so the coved lip can be fonned
\\ith
a
scraper.
By
removing this waste
you can U SC the template to determine the
finished profile of the wall. (NOTE; The
y scraper sheuld be reground to an ex
treme fingemail shape. see page 22.)
Reposition the small tool rest so that it's
just below the center point of the blank.
Then, to form the coved lip. lake only light
cuts with the scraper. see Pig, 3. This
tend
to
take a few minutes to accomplish,
but ifheavy cu t s are made, the tear out will
be horrendous, C h e c k the profile of the lip
fI'equently with a partial template.
The scraper may need to be reshsrpened
several times before the final shape is
achieved. (V
\1
can teUwhen to resharpen
the scraper when it produces dust instead
of shavings.)
side of the bowl. Because much more
material needs to be removed from the
area around the base of the bowl than near
the lip, it's best to
begin
with short cuts
starting about I
from
the left edge, mov
ing the gouge from light
to
left.
Start each a u e c e s siv e p as s lightly to the
right (closer to the lip), B y doing this,
you'Dbe r e m o v i n g mote material from the
base
o( the bowl than from around the lip,
without having
to
take
an y
heavy cuts.
When using the gouge, start the cut by
addressing the wood with the
U
facing
ll'aight up, and the handle held low
enough to keep the cutting edge
away
(rom
the blank. Then slowly lilt the handle until
the gouge is cutting. As soon lUI the gouge
starts to CUL,slowly SlIing the handle in a
counter-elcckwtse arc. while genU)' rolling
the U of the gouge towards the left.
The cutting edge of the gouge should
move
in a shatlo,
are-s-whieh is
a
result
of
the handle mo ing ina much larger are. To
better describe lhe handle's movement,
think of Lhemovement of the handle's butt
in relationship to a clock C a c ( , t < C C Fig. 2,
The butt of the handle begiM the cut inthe
0 : 0 0 position. and willsomewhat followthe
perimeter of the clock face in a counter
clockwise rotation (towards your body)
until it's in the 3:00 posilion at the end
of the cut.
As the handle is raised through this arc.
it ma~' be necessary to let the tool slide
sideways (to the left) to make the fu ll cut.
The actual shape of the arc will vary to
SOmeextent 11the bowl profile changes,
but il w ill follow basically the same path.
As the gouge proceeds a c ross the peri,
meter of the bowl,
t
must also be rolled on
it,. side slightlyas the handle is lifted. If
the U ofthe gouge isn't rolled over to the
left 3S it's advanced, you could get a nasty
dig-in when the trailing edge or the gouge
comes in contact with the wood.
PROBl.E~IS. The results of this cutting
action should be thin shavin~ and a nice
finish
01 1
the bowl. Unfo,1unately, this
1
Set th~ tool ru t Yo aw a y from the
,-ides poi)lt, We ('ery ligM cuts ,dll,
tne
v gouge.
Then
procfed across th
e
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/
\V
1
RemOt 'e
tilt rc> ter
pinnacle using /Ire
8
Afte,' lite
Vi
gOl ' '' '.
Ihe V 8rrol'61' 1 0 clean up tile lip.
U T Y O _ G R O O V E
the safety of the rim. U S tbe long point of
a 1 : skew to cut a \ - sh a pe d groove in the
f a c e of the bowl at the
pencil
tine. se e Fig.
6. By cutting this groove first, the bevel of
the gouge
will
have a shoulder to rest
against at the
start
of the cut. This
wil l
prevent it from following its natural ten-
dency to shoot out toward the outside
edge, ruining the rim.
REMovlNCl TIn : INSU lt: WASn:.
To posi-
tion the 1 , . gouge to
start
the cut, lay the
gouge on its side,
with
lhe
U
pointing LO
a spo~ slightly above the center of the
bowl, and the bevel resting in th e g rc ov e,
The handlo s h o u l d be ju~i a little lower
than level a nd leaning slightly toward the
center of the bowl.
S(. (
Fig. 6.
\\'hen the gouge is presented
to
the
wood. it should be introduced firmly
to
start the cut. As:;oon as the gouge enters
the wood, begin to lower the handle and
slowly arc the cutting e d g e of the gouge
toward the center of the bowl As the
euuing edge reaches the highest part of
the arc. it's I(I1ldually roUed over so that
the open side of Ihe
U
is pointing
towards the center of the bowl.
The gouge should tl'avel in a .hallow arc
After the lip is fanned on the unde rside
of the rim. the finished profile on the out-
side ofthe bowl can be completed using the
~. gouge. The profile of the bowl
will
continue beyond the plywood faceplate.
but for now. just sbape the outside or the
bowl up to the plywood disk.
Check the profile often. using the coved
li p
as a
point
of reference for the template.
Whon iho finlll
pas s is
about to be made,
take
a m in u te
to
r e s h a r p e n
the gouge to
a
keen edge. 'rhe effort spent here
will
del1nitely show in the final finish,
tINI~1ICI. ) I ll. Anel tbe outside of the
bowl isshaped, the heavy domed scraper is
used
00
clean UI>the surface, see Fig. 4.
(Switch to the small scraper whenworking
near the eeved lip.) Be sure that the
scraper has a burr on its edge and that it's
always held :;0 that it's pointing down-
ward. To achieve
good
finish, make only
very light CUI.with the scraper.
TURNING THE INSI E OF THE OWL
To cut the inside of the bowl, set up the
large tool rest so it's slightly below the
center. and only
away from the face.
PItOTF.( I INC Til t: 1 11M .The first cut is for
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To be Sure that ilu:bowl isatlaclted I J
m e pedesl :JJ
80
I l lul
11'3
lfl e l. l< y a
piett oj plywood
Oil
to p oj Ih e b ow l, and
mcag r~ (ite
heigM 0/
all
} olll sides.
21
SCI. P lTWOOD-
?
~
the two to make it easier to remove later.
The first step is to true up the blank on
tho IMh. in the
arne
manner as the bowl
blank was trued. (The l~il stock can be
bl'ought up to the end of the block for
support if needed.) After the block is
trued, most of [he waste can be removed
from the area orthe bead and cove, redue
ing the diameter of this area to 2 v .
1 \VOL.
The next step is to layout the
I>osition. of the bead and cove on the blank.
Fil'lit I cut agroove with the parr ing sool \0
mark the depth of the cove at its deepest
point, see Fig. 10.
The next step is to slarl shaping the
profile of the basse using the gouge. Once
the basie shape of the b. ..;e is formed. the
cove can be tumedso that it blends in with
the bnse and also forms a centinuous curve
where it meets the bead. we Fig. 10. The
bend is then cut using either the small
scraper, or the skew chisel,
Tt'IISISr. TIlE TE N N O N . After the pedes
tal\ prul i1e iscompleted. use a parting tool
to cut a round umncn to fit the hole in the
bottom of the bowl. -v ri~. 11. \\'hen the
tennon is close
the
COITl-ct.
size, us e the
hole in the bowl to cheek for the filial fit.
Thi, way, there's little chance of the ten
non being cut too small, 1'hi.
i
bo a good
wny to be sure tha~ the tcnnon i.n't too
long. II the lennon is cut so that the (it is
tight, clamping the bowl to th~ pedestal
shouldn't be needed.)
finally. [ finish sanded the entire base
and then gave it a coal ofRfllis wax.
After it was buffed to a hilW sheen. I
removed the pedestal from the lathe and
.~pllrtcd the plywood disk
l\'l)1Il
the base.
ASSEMBLY
I used the method ShoWII in Fig. 12 to
assure that thebowl's rim i 1,,\,,'1when the
bowl I, I(lued to the 1 '
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H EA VY D OM ED SCRAPE R
turning to ols bein g ho ned 'o n a bench stone,
bu t for the li fe of me, Ica n'tdoit that wa:l '.~
SHO P N O 1 E :Because
honi ng' a go uge
will
hollow out the surface of any sh a)1)enin~
stone,
m ark one sid e of the stone w ith a
smallnotc h to des ig nate thai this side is fo,'
go~ges only. The side w ithou t- the-notch is
use d fo r only the flat , tools (skew s) .
To obtain a truely shar p ed ge, 1 use a
seri es ofthree slip stonestamed ium
i? d ;a
a fin e India and a soft A rk ansas.
HONING .
After the gouge is removed
c. om the grinder, the fi rst step is to re-
move the burr on the inside of the U .
Pla ce the slip insW e the U and hone
the en iire edge fro)n corn er to co rner by
sl idin g the cr owned edge
of th e
sl ip
back
and forth in vhe
U ,
Alwa:,:skee p the l Il '\ iO lity of the slip well
back in the P to prevent any chanceof it
teetering
and rounding
ov er
th e c utJ ;iog
edge. fthe U side of the ~ug e becom es
ro und ed over at the cu ttio 'g edge, it will
have to be reg rou nd un til it' s t1~t again,
After th e bu n' is remov ed from inside of
th e U , hone the bevel sid e of t he goug e.
Honing the inside of the U usually just
bends the burr over O t he . b evel edge.)
Hcning the bevel edge is a ls o done w ith a
slip - but th is time th e face flat si de) of
the slip is use d. I
sit on.a
stool at
the
wcrkbench w ith the hand le's butt nestled
in my lap and the steel shank .of the gouge
pressedagainst th e front edge of the work-
ben ch . This way the tool is s ta tio na ry , y et
it
C \l
be
ro lled as W s sharpened,
AS the goug e ishoned, I sl ide th e slip in .
bae k-and-fonth motion (in line w ith the
cu tt1llg edge) al ong a small section or the
bevel, keepin g it pressed again st both the
tip and heel of the bevel.
One way I've found to be sure that the
cuttin g edg e is bei ng honed (;Ind not JU St
the bevel) is to
see
if oil
I S
rolling over the
cutting edge and down the insid e of th e
u
f
it is, now th e sto ne is ill c on ta ct
w ith the very tip of the edg e.
To continue honing around the cutting
edge, r r ol l t he gouge in my righ t
ha nd.as
I
WOOOSM1TH
I. LIGHT SC RAPE R
hone with the slip in my le ft hand.
Hone the bevel un til the burr is re
moved, then rep eat the hon in g on the
in side of the U. ~Vben the burr is re
move d from both sid es , use the next fi ner
slip a nd re pe at tir e
process.
TH E DOM ED SCRA PER
The
heavy
domed scra per
1
used to clean
up the surface alter the gouge is made by
So. by
of England . W e purchase d a com
ple te se t o Sorby sc ra per s fro m W.oodc) n
S 1 1 Ip ly C 0 11 1.,
'but J've fo und that the
domed
scraper
is
the
only one
1
use e nough
to Ju stify the cost ($ 23. 60).
The
S )rby
domed sc raper is forged fro m
tbic k steel, This extra thick bl ade helps
dampen th e
vibr....ien,
and
when
it 's use d
\\1 th ,a ligh t touch ,
it
ca n really help smooth
ou t 'oublesome
end grain.
The bevel on an y sc ra per is ground
very steep angle
(15 to 20'). ')'h is steep
angle allow s the th ickness of t~e tool ab
sorb some of th e pu nish men t.
IV h en th e scra per is u sed ,
it.can
be taken
direct))' Irnm th e grinder to th e la the,
w ith ou t a ny honing. The bu r left by th
grinder is wh at actually does the cu tt in g .
if
the scraper produces nothing but
du st. th e burr h as b ee n 1 00of f, an d 8 new
bu r,' must be formed. Ligh tly pass tile
scraper ove...t he g r ind ing wheela couple o
tim es to
form a
n ew b UJ1 .The bUIT PI,t on
th e scraper u su ally d oesn 't la st very long
so l'esharpenin g is done quite o ften .
LI GHT SCRAPER
TheW 'light scrapers provided in standard
st arter sets are, in -a nu t s h el l, 00 0 light to
do much be-,ides form ing special shape s.
Bu t fo r this kind of special applica tion
work,
a light scraper is id e al to d o t b ejo b.
re gro un d a lig ht scra per to iO I'l11 the lip o
the ou tside wall of th e bowl.
For this application , the tip of ~he h
sc rap er is g rou nd to a morerounded profile
than w as o n it()I ig inally. This really helpe d
elim inate an y chance of the corner of the
scraper c at ch ln g th e J \- uit bo wl's li p.
I .SP IN D LE GO UGE
Before getting to tbe tools use d to tu rn the
Fruit
Bo wl, I'llli l
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OODSMITH
We WCllllo a local 'YOCkI1u/.gulIIstOl'Oand
bOllgll1SQlll~ .. it'8 just what we IIced.d.
Douald E. H o s k i l l s 0 1 1
Pensacola, Florida
B ed
roil faslcller.
( I
ol'OilablB through
The \Voodwol'kc,.,.' Store
(Calalog is
1),
2180/ Inrl .I ;a/ Hl d Roger., ,UN
5fiJ7.$.
7'/1e 1ljJill' tUNJizes of bed'Yl.illasteller,~,
botll
a~
lid
t
6Whili ''', hI tI,eilcatZog.
Ihey'rc list/Jd 01 o.tS and 10.2.';
rcspectit'clll
A Nlny GRITTY FOLLOW-UP
I jU$t received my Ma h issue or Wood
/tlllillt.
and in reading the article The
Nitty Gritty on l:;tones , I think I can help
you in finding the silicon carbide slWTY.
All lapidary
rock
and gem) stores
carry
silicon tarbide grit for tumbling stones.
It'. u su a Uy 3 ailable in 90, 120 220. and
400 grits. and cost about $2.00 a pound.
Frtlllk LaChapelle
Batol
ROltge ,
Lo}(isiana
entire
Cl{rt'C.
TIle
It'(JY
~se a French
curve
i8 10 cle(lll 1 1 1
th e
rollgh
sketch .
linltS bJidrawing ollly
small portions oftlu:
Cl l ve
01 o lle
time (1 much
as
lite French
CllrllC lI'i/l fol/ow willlOltl allgillg lite
s/tape of Ille 0)1gi1lal OIO'UO),
Somct.ill108(ldjllslable cllrves (made of
(Ieillibll I' bbe,'), call be used whell a
'Ft'ellclt CUJ'fl' It't)11'lllJO,.k.
Ted (our dC8igll director) feels that it's
1ISUall/lllot eces.a rulo duplicate a
cI l J I of Ihe Cllr, 'e. Th.,1 simply
frc4' / (l d a skelch of Ihe ell 'e as best YO/ l
can .
BollI of IIlt.
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. G RO OV E I, ~WIDE
1 . 1 .
DEEP
C EN T E R ED O N ST Oe l