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2 50
OTES FROM T SHOPO 3 7
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WOODSMITIi
. .
fi .(Eito;
ro .
WOODSMITH (ISSN 0164-4114)
1$
P < J b I i s h e d
bimonthly (January. Marcil. May. July.
Sep
_. Nov_I
by
W oodsmith f'ubIisIjng
Co,.
22OOG t a t k : I o l x i So.;Ol&1fU. :' u.-~o J-lJiar:Ckt(il,, 'l.I~,I, t''''llH't'oQf ,,~8~.
s..~..tof~ ..
w,1IIILIy: 0011(fl).
Jh,.
Annual t lUb to i pdon ~ tl{l.OO .....
I llalbnlf ..dll 4 '(
ktll'l ''' ~
of
pl.'blirxtjon
1 : b J O Gnulid A\ 't fI IK ', I ) rf . '~ ., IJ'OI k ( ( lQ lIQ ' l .IO ' I I . . ~ I t .
ii.
CCInI_pItt. CMiq
wid ,
.-flhP bt ,..... 1, , . ,
otJ.:CIIII'nd
bcuI~
~ot ~pu~ =W(;1'VIdA~.M~ I~mt.. C-GIrI~t..,,'d .,otpubl..~.~h'QI',nd~ry:Mlt
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3
OODSMITH
c rawl in side the cabinet to
mark
th e lo ca
tio n of th e hinges on the cab ine t stile .
I
finally eam e up
with this
Simple
'method
that is h elpfu l w he n mo un tin g a number of
doors.
First, I m ounted the hinges in the cor
rect
location
on the edge of
a door,
Then
1
made s to ry s tick out of a piece of VI th ick
SCI.,.p.1cut it as long as the hEtight o f th e
door opening and as wide as the door
th ickness.
Next, Ientered th e strip alo ng sid e th e
edge of the door and fl ipped th e hinges
o ver o nto it.
I
carefully marked the
loca
tio n o f a l l t he
screwholes
in th e hinges on to
the strip . T hen
I
rille d h oles all
til.
way
l I OU9 the W strip at theS R O UT E R
lAeL E PEDESTAl
MACHINES ON WHEELS
Like mall) h orn e w oo dw ork ers J hav e
m ore to ols th an s p a c e By mounting some
of the larger m achines on casters I'm able
to r oll th em in to po sitio n when Ie ed th em
an d ou t of the w ay w hen Ion't. The prob
lem was that 1 didn't want to work on
machines raised up high on rolling or lock
do wn casters. an d 1c ou ld n't e as ily adapt
t he expens iv e r et ra ct able casters to many
of m y larg e m ac hines .
__ T_~ Technigu_e_s__
CUt lOCK TOSUOt
IN OAOO. MAIM
O.STANCES OF
C; :O M M O N A N G L S
DRILLING JIG IMPROVED
It was a gr eat help to lise the angled drill-
ingjig (Wooll .mitll No. 35 , page 22 ) to dr il l
the sl an ted pockets fo. the w ing struts in.
the biplane. But Iound i~ even easier
when
I
made a modif ication on the-jig .
011 . of the problem s I noticed vas that
the m al l wooden block between the two
pieces of pl; a
o/,oN -w idea(jo in t he base piece of plywood
,befooo attaching the hinges. I then cut a
new longel ' bloc k that would fi t tightly into
th e dado but could si lll be J ;' e) 110 \'ed .
I'also mark ed di stances on the b lock that
'\'ould indicate commonly tiRed angles.
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W OOI)S M ITH
OUTSIDE CS-
WASHER
CUTTING DIAGRAM
\ . CtA .
SOUOflyn
.. .. A ..
@
Wll
131
21III
ty 1% 3
H form.co (2)
Woode n Co c h ( 2)
soU lIGS 101
UNOIsrlucrED
fOlDIWG ACTION
WAN fXAGOElAftD)
,. HOlI
.lOU'110 fN STOCK
Y.roll D'm4' ,MHtl 23V.w III 16d .. 26' h
A
-9
(4' y- ...
11.
214
Stretct..r (1)
v
I' ,.
19h
C
c.-ba,t) ~.
1 6 \1 0
o
~
llodts (2) V . III 1t; 3
E Frome 5,;1 (2' ''', 1% 3V
f F ro me R o it . . 2
ty.
'It 23 tf4
G
Plywood
(1) t III 13V.. 2tV.
to shape o n a disc sander.
Next,
all
the edges o n bo th
sides of the legs are cham-
fe re d. T he e asie st
way
to do
this is on
a
r ou te r ta ble u sin g
a
c ha mfe r b it w ith p ilo t. (N o te :
An option is to ro un d over all
the edges wilh a
Y
comer
round bit. This can be done
a ny wh ere th e p ro je ct ealls fo r
a chamf er .)
MATCI ~ EGS. Next, h o le s
are d rille d il) t he le gs to mo un t
th e Rotc-Hinges. However .
befo re dr illin g th e ho le s, it's
best to pair up the legs to de-
te rm ine how they fit together
bes t.
If the leg s
are warped,
they
should bo matched
so
th e w ar p
doesn't in te rf ere with the fold
ing
action,
see
~ 'ig . 2. TeSI
ea ch pai r of leg s fO I' tho best,
ac tion and m ark the sides tha t
w ill face each other.
DRILL OL~ Now dri ll ~
holes on th e marked sid es fo r
th e Ro ta -Hin ges,
refer to
tig.
4 . Thes e ho les ar c loo ltl ecl 12'
down fro m the top o f each leg ,
see Sid e V iew in Fig. 3. Note:
These ho le s are no t ce ntered
on th e length o f the legs.
w anted to
provide a l itt le w ider stan ce at the bo ttom
of 'he legs,
so
the hinge (pivo t pelo t) is
shifted u p a little.
HOLESAT TOP 0 L&(;S. There are also
holes at the to p o f e ach leg. O n the o l
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5
v
5 .H A N iC
HOLE
O U T S I O E lE G
1 1 / .. .. x 1 / .
_ .- S T R E T C H A
C ::ROSS SE c :: T ION
1
3
COUN JlE tiBORf
y
DEE P
@
PlVOl aloe.:
\~. I ,.,
Off HOLlS
OUTslOf
l O
HO tE
CEN TfJtfD
R O M
T O P E O G E
Ul S
R~OIUS
tN S ID E Li G OOT1 0E I.f G
~IDE VE ~
C R O S S S E CT IO N
R OU ND O VER
D E T A I L
~ .. HO L E S
......- Ofa>
f O ,
RO T O H I N G
iVOl~oCtc
s t E -
O ff Al L .
FIG
\ D O W C
16lh' tONG
T R O T O . H ING
.
,
, -
t
l
2
n
_ : Y
I
J 7 }
Ji fG U R E
3 :
WOODSMITH
FI G U RE 7
PIV01 BIlOC J( . N ow pivot blocks (D ) are
neeaed
to
join the legs
to
the tray:
To
make
th..se blocks, first eu~ two pleces H~' wfde
by 3' long, see Fig. 6. Then drill a 0 / . hal.
for the Rotc-Hinge, centered on the length
and width
of
the black.
Next,
counterbore
~di8.
holes in the
pivot
blocks,
and
follow
with
o/t6~dia.
shank
ho les .
(Note: Cheek the depth oflhe
counterbore
so lV :-tong
screws
extend
only
into
tlj e \ > f t . .plywood
tray
bo p.)
After the holes are drilled round the
0 0 1
ners to a t radius, see Step 3 in Fig. 6.
t\IOUNT -R()T().Hlr,-; '
holes
at
the
ends of the stretcher for No.8 x
tW woo d -
SCle \\S,
se e Fig,
S .
After the stretcher
is
glued and screwed
to the legs, filJ the
eounterbores
with
plugs, S811ding
th e m s mo oth
with
th e s ur-
fa ce
of the stretcher,
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6
'UNO' INTOBIT
.,
CHAMnR ~ MAtlC 1 IN
.~ Y
yA ....OOM ,HO
V( ./
~
'H)
I'AN[~
M et
ust a.ISfllO
RMISH CHAMfER
GlUllOf' 10GtTH l.
1KfN tOUND OVH
COHU
~
> :
Sir flNCllO
THICKNESS0'
P lYWOOD
fEN(E
MAKi RS' tASS
WOOOSMITH
T HE TR A Y TOP
After the legs are built, all that's needed is
a
tray top.
Th e one shewn in th e p ho to is an
oak frame with the Formic. panel. To
make the tray,
1
started
with
the panel.
The panel is piece of
AlC plywood
with Formiea laminated to both sides, Cut
the plywood (G )
and
the Fo rm i ca ( H ) o v er
size
(o.
least
~ larger
in both directions)
to allow
fo r
trimming .
Lo \MJNAT E 1 '1 1 F OR o>IICA . Then laminate
the Formica to the plywood by .presding
oontactcement onboth
surfaces.
When the
cement
is
dry to the touch, place dowet..
along
the plywood (see Fig_ 10),
and
align
the Formica at one end of the plywood.
Then removeonedowelat a lime,p~ing
the Formica down as you go.
Shop Note: The bottom of the pl)'wood
must also becovered with Formica. If only
one side
is
covered, moisture
from
the air
can still penetrate the exposed plywood
side, and the panel ill warp.
CUT FRoL\lR PIECS.
Now the frame
pieces can be cut to rough size. Rip the
rails (F) and stiles (El to a width of
l Y o o
and cut them 10 rough length (about,
y
longer than shown in t'ig. 9).
cur GROOVES.
N ex t, gro oves are eu1 .o n
the edges of the frame pieces to accept. the
panel, refer to Pig. 11. To set up this cut,
use the Formica-covered panel to ndjusl
the distance between the fence and tho
outside of the blade, ace 'ig. 12.
Set the depth of cut to
%'
and mnke
pass on each frnme piece, ICeStep 2. Then
flip the piece around so the other faeo i~
against the fence, and make another PMS
onall pieces, see Step 3. finally, adjustth.
fence to clean out the w te left between
the first two cuts.
RABBET FORMICA.Mer the groove. nre
cut, go back to work on the panel. rirst,
trim the panel to linal~ize, see Fig. 9. Then
rabbet the back (bottom) side with a ~'
rabbeting bit. see fig. 13.Sneak up on the
depth of cut so the remaining tongue tits
snugly
in
the groo\-es
in
the frame.
CL'TTO LESGTlL Now Ihe frnme pieces
can be cut to final length. The stile. (E) are
cut to length to match the width of the
panel (13;'). The rails (F) are cut to
length
to
match tbe distance between the
shoulders of the rabbets on the panel
(2Ov. )
plus the width of the two stiles
(I
y,,'
each), for a total of 23. .
CL'Tro sellE . To join the frame memo
bers, cut rabbets at the ends of the .. iles to
produce tongue. that
fit
the grooves, see
Fig. 14.
C8AMFR EDGES. Next, I cut chamfer
on the inside edge. of the frame to ease the
transition between the panel and the
frame. This chamfer is cui along the entire
length of the stiles, but must be stopped on
the rails. refer to Fig. 14.
To make the stopped cut, mark. point
2
TO P C H AM fE R
'ZIN AOM END
fiG UR E lA o
OUI'
-
, ,~tll).J
)',
r4:~li-.l-----:3-..1 .t=
::r: ::~c ......U T WA ST E
ON RNAl PASS
2
, fENCE
~
IAl'
,
RAIL
SAWalAOt
fO RM ICA
I~
FU'
flIice
tNO-tel.END.
MAKE 5ECO,.0
PASS
GtoOVI((HltltD
ON SlOOC \ 0 \ - . P lYWOOD
.
-.:_\. - _ . .-
..- L 1-:-
__L
ifiOVl( 11
.. 10
ffGUIl9
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7
lH.....cr
, 10111
i:.~~~~T~;;~~-~~
C U T Y'
NOTCHIS ro
~ WIN' AItOUNO
~ COINflS
SI VlNn lASt
AOH1S1Vl.10 GWl
I
'_
U.sl
I.,
SlOT
cun W ITH
,OT
OIitOOVI
/
CI NT lRIO
ON STOCI
:...._~ -
._
%
Pl'l'WOOO'ANll
t tAOIU
oN COINIIS
\
fo r p ly w o o d to p
; ~ / ~L . . J
< . . . 2 O ~
Aovr
o.oov,
IN--
....... ~ COUNT '.CLOCl\YtSE
DllltChoN
~
,.
,.
HOlf
2
WOODEN ...
CA TCH ......
~
.\ . t . . . . _ ,
.A OIU S
w o o r
CAfCt-4
_ r : ~ ; .
t
~
II.. GltAltA NCt
1
p tVOT & lOOK
,
lIGU. 20
r . : .
ou tS IDE
I -
\VOODSMITli
molding to}ield a clean joint, see fig. 6.
T MOL ING
W. also tried another version .fthe tray
lO p uhing.y, oak plp,ood with plastic
T'IQolding 10 eever
lh e
edR~
To
make I
hi,
panel, cut the pl) od 23'Y,long
by
16 wide, and round the corners to I
rll
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WOODSMITH
CUnlNG DIAGRAM
A
_P.....
~ It 21 211.
8
SoM St,.fc.h.,.. 2
1 1/,14
C
Hood 1)
11 3. 14
D
MiddJ. Stretche, 1 Y. lilt 14
Uprigh.. 2
-V ,. 1
It : a I
~,,~..ot.lI.
I\- WlO I D A DO
N1tI[D ON
S1OOI :
M T RILS LIST
We thought it would be niee to 'Ihen cut it by making multiple
have a stand to holda set of four
passes
over the sawblade.
T. trays. And because of the LAlliNATE THEBASE.Now the
weight of four tra)'$ (it adds up
boards
can
be
glued and
c lamped
quickly). we designed the stand together to fonn the bases. As
with casters. the clamps are tightened. the
This stand is giant inverted pieces may slip a ro un d little -
1 that holds the trays leanto buttry to keep the top edge. and
fashion. Tobuild it. I started with the ends aligol.
the b a s e p~. When the glue is dry (ever-
THEBASES. ac h b a s e corutiSIJ night). cut the laminatoo pair to
of two pieces (A) laminated final size by trimmingofrthe bot-
togelher. see Fig. t'inlt cut tom edge and both ends. Then to
four pieces of stock to rough complete the bases, round the
size.mwideby 23'long. (These corners to a
radius. and cham-
piee.. Star1.out oversize to pro- fer all edge.~on a router table.
vide some room for trimming TUE BASE STRETCII&RS. The
aft er
they're laminated.)
bases
are joined
to
two stretehe ....
SOTCII&S. Nowlayout the posi- (8). Cut these base stretch ....
lion of the notches that hold the Iy wide and to rough length
end. of the tray tables. First (15~.Then determine the final
mark a lino centered on the length by placing on. of the T.
length of two of the boards, sec tray leg a.. embli inthe notches
Fig. I. Then mark the location of of lhe bases, see Pig. 2. Measure
four pairs of1(.(holes to form the the distance between the inside
corners of the notches. facesofthe bas , subtract ~. for
W orking from the centerline clear-cincoand cu t the s tr e tche rs
out, mark the centerpolnts of the to this final length.
holes fOI he first pair of notches IIAN OL~ AND STRKTCIIE R.
SOthe first hole i8 centered 411. Next, to join the uprights. the
from each side of the centerline handle
e)
and middle stretcher
and ~. down from the top edge. 0 arc cut to width (se. tlg. 3).
Thenthe secondholeoflh. psiri. and both pieces are cut to the
marked IV.' away. For ~he out- same length as the base stretch-
side notches the first holes are ers (B).
centered m from the center- --------- ~---------- TUt: QA.'/1)LE.After the blank
tine. and the second holes of the pair are SF COSO HOARD notched boa rd s for the handle is cut to size. drill holes to
also lW' away. are laminated to second boards that have m a r k the shape of the hsndhold.... Fig.
CU I om NOTCH.Aller the position. of large dadoes (or lap joints) centered on 3. Then cut out the shape with sabre sa
w;
the bole. arc marked on both boards, drill their length. (\Vben the two boards arc and sand the edges smooth. F~naIly.cham
the %'-dia. holes. Then usc a sabre saw or laminated together. this dadoaeuially ere- fer (or round over) the top and beuem
band saw tocut the notches to shape. Fin- ates a mortise for the upright. see Fig.
l.}
edge. of the handle and the hand-held.
ally,sand the edges olthe notches smooth, Mark lhe position ofthis I~'-wide dado THEUPRIGHTS. The last pieces to cut for
rounding over the top corners. soit ... ntered on the length of the board. the stand are the uprights E).The up
~ ~~U. ~ ~l ~ ~ ~ ~ ~~
. . .
r ~ H O U ~ ~ ~ : ~ = - t - ~ ~ ~ ? ~ ; - ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ P l ~ . j - - - i - ~
,~.. ..._ -.-r
tADWS - 2.
1 ; .
LV . Tr~y_S_ ta_n_d _
R OLL AR OU N D ST OR AGE
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9
VOODSMITH
. AGU
, . . .
,. ti 'g V
TVTRAY1I0S-.,
I t A O I U S
I - l'/..-..
t HOd
.
$Yo '
. .
nt~ .. ~' ~~
~ ' . ( ' ' ' , , , S 1 O C 1 < \ ~
. .
...-{+) ,
r . + - . -
_ j_
~r.:~ ~ /
. .
~ ;Q,:~
j_
\, 1Ia HOlI
~f
j
N
~ l':' IIi
-.
-
CtlfTOM
~~
HANDlE ANO SfHTCHE.S A Rl S AM EU HGTK
U SI 4,4 (lV ,61 STOC K
J . .
vi
~~W ~
~~
I
,
I , , , , TIIToe:
3
TOr~:~.~~\ ~~~R~~s
UT TO f iT
.IT
/ ,V ,~;P
righlSare cut 10width (Iii ) 10maid> the
I\~;
MOlt Gull
NGUIt.
C l, OS S ~ ~s; ;nON
CINTfRfD ~
width of the dado (mortise) in the base,
l_ONSlOC,2- ::.;.---
-,I: ~ ..
rcfer to Detail B in Fig. 7.
h._
I
COUNTUIOII
: a t
_:::>
ut them to a length of 331 , , and then .....::: -::/ SCIAP
cut half laps on the bottom ends to fit the
\Ji
l~ PIICl
~ , S I . r W . . . I ' @ j
>I,
ortises.
To
complete the uprights, round
J _
/
he top 001.1'8 to V radius and chamfer
~ ~ j
~
he edges, stopping at
the
sboulder of tbe
.W l _ ;, . v
: ' - < >
~\1J~ ~
half.lap on the bottom end.
r e t / .
1 ./
DRill ,,~,. r:.........:
~~lOT~~
SSE .M8LY
NO Tf C UTseau 'liCf
,-Oil
~ . : r
TO SAM(
WIOnc
....-}.._5._; ~
ow that
all
the pi'_ are cut to final size,
tr ~ ~
AN O
fH l(:KNtSS-
they can be assembled. 1 did this by gluing
ASSTlElQ4(ItS
~
nd screwing them together.
, . . . . . _ ,~ . . . . : : : : : : : ,
. . . .
'rhe only problem here is drilling the
~,
I .~
pilot holes for the screws exactly where
US.OAUGE
ta
a 0 iJO S ll lON
~~.. PlUGS
yo u \\ Mt them. S inc e the re s no easy way
HOLESIN US l
-
WOOOSClfW
to clamp the pieces together to drill the
untoHTS
pilot holes, ( made a drilling gauge to mark
DETAILA
r
the position of the holes. ' -
f r l . . . . ; < s ; ;
lF.GAUGE.
To
make the gauge, cut a
T ~ 1
- : >
J
iece of 414scrap
to
the same width as the
1 IEil
HA ND LI A ND
1 -.
e
handle and stretchers (1 . t wide), See Fig.
ST a.IlCHII
. .
. .
ClNTI.EO
o . Then mark two holes centered * from
ONSfOCI(
the edg< s of the stock.
Orin
v .
holes at
i S fM I.t. TOP
1(1 .5 BEFORE
these points with a Portalign, see Fig, 4,
G lU IN G IN TO
Now cut orr the end of the scrap piece to
produce the gauge.
,. . . . .
( )
~IARKPIWTHOLES.
To
mark the position
\
.
lONG
I
H A L F L A P
-~
8 1
fr O fh
of the pilot holes on the base, center the
(i)
INON
Ul f
i -
WOOOSCtW)
block between the two notches, and equal
fiT
distance (Ii ) from the top and bottom
MOI1\S
~:
dges, see Fig. 5. Then use an awl to.mark
-wo points forthe pilot holes. Use the same
;::.
. . -
CHA M FER
guide on the upright to mark the position of
@
A U ED GES
~
the pilot holes C o r the handle and the
stretcher, see Detail A in Fig. 7.
-
O lU l l l b 8
~r
No,,) drill pilot holes in the base I1 d
uprights, counterboring % deep for.
3)1;.
ood plug, see Fig. 6. The same gauge can
I .
be used to mark the poSition of the pilot
~ ~TO CHMV
oles in the ends of the stretchers and the
~
handle. (Use a Portalign to drill the pilot
holes in the ends of these pieces.
RETAILC
,~
ASSEMB~V,
o
assemble the stand, glue
~
11 (1
screw
the stretchers
between
the
; : - W n ?
,;-: - v
bases. Then before mounting the uprights,
~o
I mounted the casters to the base, see
11._
:.r. .
Detail C. in Fig. 7, (it's a lot easier to do it
~. c-- '
beCore tbe uprights are in the way.) F'in-
IV .
e ~~
IEfQl.E GW1HG
handle between the uprights, and then
ON
USE TOTOI
glue the uprights in the mortises.
STOCK
ASSMlty
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WOODSNlITH
~NCH CfNTtR
WITH AWl
1-,-
SU G H TL Y
R E A M
H O L E T O PS
W IT H
L A RG E R aIT
y . . -
HOLES
CENTERED
ON STOa:t(
NOTe : M I NI M U M L E N G T H
F O R S A m a O O M
C AalN E r D O O RS
l'vea}wayswantedtomakeaset combination square to the
of louvered doors. No, I'U take approximate center and mark
that back.'What I really wanted lines from
ot
sides. Then it's
'vas to know how to cut the easy to centerpunch a point
angled slots that hold th.. Iouv- exactly centered between these
ers in place: Coming up with the lines, see Fig 2.
jig to cut these slots presented DRILL HOLES. Drjl l the \4'
an interesting challenge, index holes I deep down the
The slots
aU
have to be cut at edge of the Tail.Then switch to.
the same angle. and they have to countersink bit (or use a o
be evenly spaced. Since these twist bit, as shown in the detail
are two separate tasks, it's in Fig. 1) to chamfer the edge of
appropriate that the jig I came the holes so it's aasierto insert
upwith to do this consist$oftwo the index pin.
pa~t, there's a template that T H E T fM PL AT E
guides the router to cut the The 14 holes on this indexing
angled slots on the edge
of
the rail are used to move a template
stile (vertical piece oftbe door). in l' increments. The template,
And second, th~Te'san indexing in turn, guides the router so
rail that prcvidea a way to cuts stopped grooves at a 20
''walk'' the template down the angle along the edge of the
stile in even,
1
increments. workpiece (door stile),
Shop Note; The jig described THE TE~IPLA'I'E. The template
here could be modified to cut consists ofa Masonite base with
dcuble-stopped slots forthe lou- two fences that hold both the
vers Itbe way most commercial :--:- -:--:- :-:::-_::-_-:---:_ workPiece and the .indexing rail
operations do it), but it would also tosize,anuay,'holecenteredl 'fromthe in place when the slots are routed, see
require the USeof a plunge route.r. end of the rail for the stop pin. Since both Fig. 3. ('tote; The jig we used for the
Instead, we cut slots that are stopped sides of the rail are used, this pin sticks photo has-a Plexiglas base so you can see
onone end and open.onthe other end. The Ollt on both sides, see GI'< SSection in tbe routed slots, But I'd recommend
open ends (on the back side of the door) Fig. 1. Masonite forthe actual base.)
are covered with keeper strips
to
hold the
IND f lX lNG
noJ.ll$. Next, mark the
posi-
THE
PBN C E .
'lb
maketlie template, first
louvers in place, see Fig. 24. tionsorthe indexboleaon the top edge of cut two fences, IV'1'wide by 11'long out
the Tail. The first hole is centered aV o of 0 / plywood,see Fig. 3.
TH E IN D EXIN G R AIL r
ebesto . Th k ffl THE BASE.Then cut the base out of a
om Swl' pm. en mar 0 more
'lb make the jig, I started with the index- positions or a total 0(14) in I increme- piece of Y . Masonite so it's 11' long
to
ing rail. Choose a-straight piece o[ stock ots along the length ofthe rail. At each match the length of the fences). The
2V ,
wid. by 24' long, see Fig
1.
position draw crosslines centered on-the width ofthe base-is determined by adding
Design Note: For convenience, the thickness of the Tail
to
mark tho canter- up the combined width of the two fences,
length shown here for the indexing rail is points of the \4' Index holes. plus the thickness of the index rail and
based on building the louvered doors for Shop Note: Sin,ce 'York i. dono from the workpiece (door stile), see Template
the cabinet shown on page 14. These both sides of the indexing rail, make sure Base Betail in Fig. 3.
doors are 9 wide by 17 long. these holes are exactly centered on the DRILL HOLES. After the base is cu.t to
STOPPIN.After the indexing rail is cut thickness of the rail. To do this, set a size, mount the' fences by drilling Y .
GUJ ; 2
A R O U T ERJIG T O D O T H E JO B
ouvered oors
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-
't. _
GUIDE
IIUSHING
OUIIE 1
C H I C f t c E Y H O I I S L O T
WITH
oun ,
IU SHIHO
_
CLE N ou r
W stE
W f fH C M JU l
IAlStltlS O f ,- .
HOllS ClNTI.tO
O WU f
ffGUU 9
11
tORNER DETAIL
NC.
HNet
o
I : : t
UH
o
l tNOlXING J I..
IMUHI
_J
~VOUT NGLE
O N S QflA PIECE
I HOl
1 . . .
ll
;SIVtl
SU D INO
1.
ftGUI6
r
WOODSMITI-
hole. centered on the width and
0/.
from
the end of each fence, see Hole Detail in
Fig. 3. Then drill 0 / 0 holes in the base
eentered directly below tbe v holes.
(The oversieed
holesin the base allow for
minor adjustments when the workpiece
is mounted in the jig.
LA our GVII)E sun: Next, a keyhole
shaped slot i. eut in the base of the tem
plate to guide the router at
25,
refer to
Fig.
11 .
To layout this slot, the position of
the indexing rail has tohe marked on the
Masonite base.
To do this.lirst bolt one of the fences to
the bese, lining up the outside edge of
tbis fe nce so 1 1 . . nush with the edge oftbe
base. see Fig. 4. From here on this is
referred to 88 the fixed fence.l
.lARK
LINes. Draw a line along the edge
of the fixed
f en c e, s ee
Fig.
4
Then hold
the indexing rail tight against the fixed
fenooand draw another line, see Fig. 5.
S :TT.8 VEI.. Nowthe centerline of the
k.eyholeslot ean be marked. Remove the
f ,edf.nee and
use
aslidingT-bevel
set
to
an angle of 25to mark the eeeterlme of
the .lot,
8
Fig. ?
Shop owThe way set the T-bevelat
25 6>was
to
draw tw o lines 57/a apart on a
pie
ce
of
scrap
Maaonite. aeeFig. 6Then
J
marked Point. A on the rust line so it s
2 ; y . up from tho bottom edge, and marked
Point B whore the seeond line intersects
the bottom edge. Draw a line eonneeting
the two points and a
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WOODSM1Tli
2
I
UTTING T SLOTS
Once the indexing rail and the template
are complete, all that s needed isan index
pin to position the template along the
indexing rail.
INDEX PIN.
The index pin is a 3 hex
head bolt with the head cut ofT.Tomake it
a Ijttle easier towork with. I cuta wooden
d.iscandattached it to the threaded end of
the bolt, see Detail in Fig. 12.
cersruzs
Thejig isready touse anhis
point - now it's just a matter of cutting
the stiles
to
size. mounting them in the
jig,
and
routing the slots. However. J
round it's a lot easier
to
work
with
stiles
that are cut to double width.
That is. cut a workpiece wide enough
for two
stiles, plus an ex tra ~ ..
to
trim
them tofinal width, seeFig. 12.AlIIO,his
piece should be cut about 3 longer than
needed and trimmed to finallengtb aficr
the s lo ts are c ut.
(A
workpiece 3 . N ' wide
by 20 long is needed for the stiles on the
bathroom cabinet door.)
MOU.''T \VORKPIECE TO RAIL. C lamp this
workpiece to
the
indexing rail 80 the top
edges are flush, and the back ond is
firmly against the stop pin, see Fig. 12.
. OONTTEP LAl E.Before mounting tho
routing template, make sure the fixed
fence is flush with the outaide edgeofthe
Masonite base and tightened down
firmly. Then place ~he template on tho
top edge of the clamped assembly (sec
End View in Fig. 12), and push the
acijustable fence snug against the work-
piece and tighten down the wing nuts.
llOur SLOTS.Place this whole ..... mbly
in a vise and insert the index pin in the
first bole oflhe indexing rail, see Fig. 13.
Then
to rout the slots, mount a
straight bit and a
0/,.
(outer diameter)
guide bushing in the router, and sct the
aepth of cut to rout a Yo deepslot.
Now tip the router on the template
11 0
the guide bushing goes into the keyhole
slot and rout to the end efth.slot. (In ease
the slot is fractionally wider than the
bushing, rout against one side of the slot
and then against the other side.)
From here on things get boring. Just
keep moving the index pin to the next
bole and rout the next slot (see Fig. 14)
until 14 slota are routed.
FLIP
PESCES
After the slota are routed
on
one
edg e or the
workpiec e,
the fenees
on the template have to be flipped to the
other side of the base to rout the slota on
the other edge.
What youwant to dohere is switch the
fences from the bottom of the jig to the
top, keeping them
On
the same edges of
the base as before,
See
Step 1 in Fig. 15.
Then remount the carriage bolta, see
Step 2. Now flip the jig over (see Step 3)
and it s in position to rout the slotaon the
other edge of the stile.
I OStJION IAIl
T~d tt
,. FIOM UNt-
: J l< l ::
T O P
o
UHf
ou.W SOU.. I
E )
-
ACiOSS (NO
OfAISl lOl
I
;
SOUAa
.. .- .
AC.oSS
~
Of
L A ST S L OT
MAlI( OU 1$.D t
ED GE
Of
RA il T O
--o \A RI( OUT SlDfc
OnlltMlHI
EDGEOF iAlt
IENOTH0' tlll
DEtER M IN E L EN GT H
IOnoM./
Of STili
NO
CUT 1 TH
snus
fORMAl WlDtK
tL O JE; KEY H O U: S L O T O N
OrPOsn 510
IlIAUGH RXIO flNCI WITH
1001 Of flMPlAfl &ASt
-'-IXIO
INC
F U P JIO O V E R
lEC . Since the jig is
flipped around. the workpiece
h a s
to be
flipped and mounted to the other side of
the indexing rail. Switch it around S O the
first set of slots are now on the bottom
edge hut still poinang to the indexing
rail, see Fig. 16.
ROI1l'SLOTS. After swit
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WOODSM IT H
G
E ; , , , l , a . l , .~ u l w.~ ,: ,~
I
+ . X 7V.-. TWO IOA.OS
CUnlNG DIAGRAM
f
1 O
''V..XIIh17
' I. x rw
II x1~.6V ..
V,.
X6
29 h,
'.. X 6. 17Ve
'JlI. X
4h 17V
VI
C
7'n. 19~
I dow.'
Vt
1 -
plywood
Cl,lt
to
flf)
A Door Sttl.. (4)
8 Door Roll. (4)
C Louv.,.. (28)
o Cabin.t Sid (2)
E Cabin,t
Top/lim.
(2)
F
tewer
Sh.l, (1)
GCop{l)
HTow.I lor (1)
, aa,k{l)
O .nlil o;~ilon:9V.- w x 7 1. d )(
30 -
MATIRIALS LIST
wanted them
I< >
overlap the top
and bottom of the cabinet V . .
see
Frent View in Fig.
1.
'lb
pro
duoc this:v. overlap, the middle
dado must be positioned so
there's a 16V opening between
tho top nnd bottom of the
cabinet.
8
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SC1tEW lO W Ell:
H NGER t IL
TOWA Il-
1~1x 1 V . :W
aR A S S a U T T
HINGE
FIGU~E6
GlUE UHfR
H A N GE R R Al l
T O S AC K
.8 ~
1 -
It
WOOOSC I t EW
SlOE
CAP
GU,E 4 fRONT , V IEW CRO SS S EC TIO N
15
1 0 1
1 .0/.
S ID E
@
.... k EEPER ST l tIP
CROSS SECT ION
II
I
DOualfWIDE
MA G N eTIC
CA TC ;H
,
FIGU e s
R()UND-OVE~
R O UI R l AB U i
F E N C E
,/ . ~YWooo
l K
( cu r 'T o RT)
D
WOODSMlTH
pieces 6 wide (00match the width of the
side pieces). Then rip the shelf to a width
of
4 1 / 2 ,
see Fig 2.
These pieceshave 00
be
cut 00length
so
when they re joined to the cabinet sides
the
final
width ofthe cabinet
equals
the
width of the two doors. (On the cabinet I
built tbis length turned. out to be I7Vs ,
which allows for the twoMo -longtongues
to fit in the dadoes;
s e e
Fig.
2.)
Cm l'ONG 'U ES . A ft e r cutting these three
pieces00lengtb,l cut rabbets on each end
to produce a tongue to.fit the .dadoes in
theside pieces. (Thetongue on theshelfis
trimmed beck 00fit the stopped dado.)
GRoovESFq~ IJ.\CK.
JS owhe grooves for
the plywood ba c k c an be cut. Set up the
router table to rout 1I -deep stopped
groove. in the sides
(D) \4
f,om the b a C the plywood back.
Then cut it
to
fit inthe grooves.
SIIAPE
TIfE
SIDS
PlRCflS. The last step is
00cut the curved shape on the front edges
of the side pieces. First maek.a pojnf a
down from the cabinet bottom (E l,
see
Sid. View in Fig. 2.
Then draw a gentle curve from tIIis
point
to
a line J.I backfrom the front edg.
This line extends until it intersects a
2
radius drawn at the bottom corner. Cut
this profile on the side pieces and sand
the edges smooth with a drum sander.
ASSE .m LF.
C A U N E T .
Now
finish
s and all
th.e interior surfaces of the pieces and
glue and clamp the cabinet together.
TUE CAP PrECF.. While the glue was dry.
ing, Icut the cap piece (0) for the cabinet.
This pieceis cut to length so
it
cverhangs
.bothsides 0/.( (seeFig.
4),
and
to
width so
it overhangs the front edge of the side
pieces 1Yo ,
se e
Side View in Fig. 2.
After this piece was cut- to Size 1
rounded the frent
edgeand
both ends 00
a
modified bull- nose profile using a \4
round-over bit on the router table, see
Fig. 3. Then this cap is screwed 00 the
cabinet top, sea Fig, 4
MOUNT DOORS. lbmount the < 1 0 0 \ , cut
hinge mortises in the cabinet sides and
the door,.seeFig. 6.
cut the mortises i~
the door first. Then mounted the hinges
and aligned them on the sides to mark
the position for the other nap.) Also
mount a magnetic catch, doo r knobs , and
shelf standards (for two glass shelves
inside the cabinet), see Fig. 5.
,IO UN TIN C S YS 1'EM .
The
1 8 1
step is
to
make the mounting system. Thi.sconsists
oftwo bars.that have one edge ripped toa
30 angle, see Cross Section in Fig. 6.
Mount one
bar
00 the cabinet and the
other to the wall so the beveled edges
interlock 00hold the cabinet to the wall.
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e
WOOOSMITH
6
- _ i
COMItNAflON
UoUt
to
MAl. eaoSSl HIS
II
CUAT
fl THIUMetS
fiGURE 2
CUTHOM 4.
S T O C t (
f l V ..
are all the same length and one end is
rounded over on .1 1 of them, I found it
easiest to layout all three cleats on a single
5 wide
board,
see Fig 2. Cut the board to
a
finished length of 9V .
and
then
round
ov er one edge on one end w ith a
round-
over it
MARKPILOT 1I0Lt~~.
nefore cutting the
cleats apart, mark the locationof the pilot
holelines (or the
sc rew s.
F irst draw a tine
than half the width ofa slat Yo ), measure
in
from each edge, and put marks.
Split-
tlng the dilference between the marks will
locate the exact center. Then punch the
centers with an awl.
DRILLHOLES.The screws at each of the
points
ar e
sunk below the surface of tbe
slat and covered with woodplugs, see Fig.
3 .
To
dr ill
the holes ror the screws, first
eounterbore
a Wd i
a.
hole~. deep
at
each
intersecting point. Then a l J i hole is
drilled the rest of the w ay through to ac-
cept the shank or
n
A l8
fl athead
screw.
CLEA I\l.With the slnt.. completed, work
can beginon Ihe c l ea ts 8 ). Since the cleats
A place to hang your hat and eoat,... or
your mug ... or your towel. The designof
this shelf is e,ible enough that it tan
easilybechanged to
a
hallway
coat
rack, or
a
kitchen mug rack, or
a
bathroom towel
bar. And it s nl80designed to break down
so
it
can mov e
w ith
yo u
This proj t hilSfourmain parts: a shelf
asse rn bly made with slats and cleats, tw o
brackets, and a back. started with the
shelf assembly.
SHUf ASSEMBLY
The shelf is madeup of fiveslats (A) beld
together by three cleats B.
SLATS.
To
make the slats A ,
first
rip
five piece. of stock . thick) to a
commonwidth of
l~
he length of the
slats can vary depending on your needs.
wanted tobeable to hang the shelfon two
wall studs (16 on
center). So I did a little
figuring to determine
what length the slats
wouldhave to be to 10
este the bracket. 32 on
center and cameup with
a length or
8W .
Aftercutting the slats
to l ength ro und o ve r
the
t p
edge. of each
slat with a
v
round-over bit,
see
Fig.
3 .
)IARK POSITION OF HOLES.
Once the
edges are routed, three screwboles are
drilled in each slat
to
attach the cleats.
To
mark the locationof these screwholes, line
up the ends ofall fiveslats and draw tines
acroos
them with
a
square. Draw a line
1~rom eacb end (this will position the
bratkets 82 on center), and at the exact
center of the length, see Fig. 3.
CIlOSSLINS Next, draw crosslines
centered on the width of each slat. The
ensiest
way to
locate the center is with a
combinationsquare, see Fig. I.
Set the square for just smidgeon less
fiGURE 1
Three,..W~y
Shelf
FORUGSOATS~R~~~
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17
1
n.Sf ASS-ABOUt
HAlf. TOTAl DtPllt
N Q T E
IF INCtUDI~~
owa
liAR ,
DRILLHOlEl~
[ fE ,
fiGU RE 8
1
ATlACI f
KEYHOLE
ANGE.
W IT H T W O
tI
x 6 o
W OO O S CREW S
RGUaE
IGURE
\ I.
'. \ j
N OT E GRAtN O IA;ECTION
. )
~ >;
~ ~ h : . .: :_ . . . . ;
I ___R A C E f A 1 T E R t t
O N TO 8L AN K
WITH CAROBOARD TtMP lAlE
\
L O C A T IO N F O R
1 O IA.
rowe
8A R
.
B R A O C E T
e
/f
;-
I I
BRACKETPAnE.l l l i
t-- ~
--2,, -
- ~- - - - +- ~w- - - - - - - - - - - - ~ r r
RGUR
GlUED UflLANI
FOR8AAcWS
f4, r4 STO CK_o. ACTOA
GLUE ANI) ~CJlW
O U lS 10 E S LA T STO END (Il ATS ,
C H K M fO R 5CWARE ------.5
~ : : = = = = ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ _ : N : a : T E :USucrS: I Y . . . W I D E
WOODSM1TH
back from the front edge (on the OP
posite/ace from the rounded edge). Then
draw ur more l ine s,2 apart.
Now,the three cleats can be ripped I~ N
,'de. Th mark the location o C the pilot
holes, draw crosslines centered on the
idth of each cleat, using the same com
,bina ionsquare,method
that-was
used with
th e -slats ,
Finally, center punch each point
with an awl and
use.
a Y J 2 hit
to
drill a
* -deep pilot hole
at
each point.
ASSE,mLY. With the holes drilled inboth
the slats an d cleats, assembly can begin.
Start byscrewing(#8 x
IN
flathead screws)
and gluing the two ou ts id le ts 10 the
first and last. slats, see Fig. 8. Make sure
this partial assembly is
square .
Then
screw ana glue the remaining slats and
cleats together, checking the assembly
each time
a
new sjat is added to make sure
jts square ,
The final step on the shelf assembly is to
glue
o N
dia. plugs into the coun te rbo res ,
Then c h i s e l
1
cut them off, and sand Ilush
with the surface or the slat.
BRACKETS
The completed shelf assembly rests on two
brackets C O ) . 3olhb ra ck ets a re cut ou~ofa
single 9 x 15 blank made from ghied-up
stock,.see Fig. 4.
..e f ter t,,~.blankis s q u a r e d up, layout n
cardboard template as shown in Figure 4.
Then use .the template to trace two brack
eis onto Lhe_blank.After.cutting them out.
file a n d sand the curves to finished shape.
fr
you'le inqlu~ing the towel bar in the
design, drill.
r -
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WOODSM IT tI
s
D
_ c.
.,1
1 8
MOUNTING THE IUCKUS
Alter the stopped rabbets are routed, the
brackets are mounted to the shelf as
sembly. I decided not to fasten the braek
ets permanently since Iwanted to be able
to Ulke the whole unit
3par1.
ror moving or
storage. Rather,
Ise d
two short locating
pins in the top of each bracket to locate and
sta bil iz e
the entire
assembly.
To
mount the pins, drill two 0 / 6 holes, 14
deep
in
the bottom ofthe second and fourth
slats. The holes are cenlered on the width.
of these slat. and located
' Y o
rrom the
inside edge of the two outside cleats, gee
Fig, 9.
USINGI)()W~L CEN'I'ERS. Aller drilling
the holes inthe slata, use s dowel centers
to mark the location of the
matching'
hol~s
on the top edge of the brackets,
Finally, glue two
'Y o '
dowels. 0 /0 1 long
into the top of each bracket. Then round
over the end of each dowel with andpnper
to
help them slide into the matching hole
s,
lACK
The
linaI
piece to cut is the back 0. It's
ripped to a width or
5'
(to match the
stopped rabbet on the bracket).
T h delermine the length of the back,
tum the shelf a.ssembly upside down and
hold the brackets straight up against the
cleats.
Then
measure
the distance be
tween tbe brackets and add the depth or
both stopped rabbets,
se e
Fig. 10. In my
case this came to a total of : :M .
Alter the back is cut
to
length, rabbet
the ends to produce Y . th ick tongue s that
6t in the stopped rabbets in the brackets.
se e Fig. 11. Finally, round over the front
edges. with
a ~ round-ever
bit.
LOCATINGmE PEGS. lr you are making
the coat or mug rack, possible layouta for
the holes ar e shown in Fig.
13.
A1 tACH ING 1 1IE B AC K. Finally, the back
is placed in the stopped rabbets in the
brackets and hole.
ar e
drilled for
< 1 8 x
1
o
flathead
wood
screws, see Fig, 12.
F IN ISH . T h
finish the .helf,
I
sanded all
the surfaces smoeth and then applied two
coats of Hope'. Thng Oil.
A
I.. . .,,, ...... 3;A @
CunlNG DIAGRAM
~.OOWll.,
1 ~
LONO;>
,r
.
AGUIlE 1
at x 1. 31
''A.
IIt.~.
9
1.
''''. Jl
8;' 10
II/.t Jl 5 320/.
I d;o 32'1.
y,' dia.Jl 3~
,,/.- dlo . 3)/.
A 51.. (5)
8 Clock(3)
c t,tO(k.tt (2,
D 1Io
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19
OODSMtTH
board or pla sti c l am i na te s, c ar bide-tipped
bits are the
W Il Y
to go.
The cutt ing ed ge on
ca rb id e-upped
bi ts
holds u p lon ger than high spe ed steel be -
cause its an extremely hard material
(close to th e hardness of diamonds) and is
also los . susc eptible to the eff ects of over
heating (lo sin g It's temper),
How eve r,
there are some disadvantages
carbide. In addition
to
being h ard , c ar
bi de is also bri ttle - britt le to the point
th at it chips easily . C arb ide bits
are also
expensive.
And
sin ce w e 're ta lk ing about
no smal l i nv es tmen t i n c a rb id e route r b its ,
getting your m oney's w orth quickly be
comes
importanL W hat do you look for ?
TlUCKNIlSS Of CARBltl. O ne o f t he first
in dic atio ns o f q ua lity (o r
lack
of it) is tbe
thickness of the carbide tip . T he thicker
the carbide the more limes
it
can
be
s ha rp en ed b efo re it n ee d. to be replaced.
That's the theory anyw ay , In re ality ,
ca rbide bits are not resharpened th at
enen .
th e th lc kn ess of the carbid e is
really mat te r of it's the thought that
coun ts.
Usua lly , thicker car bid e ,ndlcaoo$
th e quality an d CI Il 'C the
manufac tur e r
put s
into m ak in g h is bits ,
CRtJ
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WOODSMITH
One note about these bits: the pilot.
Round-over bits come with a pilot to guide
the I>it. But there are two kinds of pilots.
Most HHS bits (and Some carbide bits)
c ome with fixed pilots that rotate at the
same speedas the bit. Th ismeans the Rilot
rubs against the workpiece at high
s l '*d
and burns the edge. The f ixed pilot also
tends to collect resin from
th e ,
wood which
compounds the burning problem.
This is one of
the prim any re aso ns
for
frustration with HSS bits. (Note: There's
a
replacement ball bearing pilot for the
Sears HSS bits that's well worth buying.)
On the other hand, most carbide bits come
with ball bearing pilots that jl1ually elim
inate burned edges.
V o - ROUNDOVER BIT. CARt)IIl'ETIPPF.O.
(Average cost: $24.9Zj. Of all the round
over
b i t s ,
the
Y 4
size is the one that gets
the most use in our shop. When working on
contemporary pieces. it's used toround the
edges. While on period furniture. it can be
ROUNo.OVEft WITH SMAlLER
PilOf lREATlS 8AotNG 81
ROUND-OVER WITH
~ ; sKou lo ea
Also ,
when cutting . -wide dadoes or
grooves, most of the time it's better to
4
make two passes with a
y ,
bit, sneaking I
up on the ,,;dlh for a perfect
fit rather
than one pass with
a
0 / . 0 bit.
STrtAlGJJT BIT ANI) V i STJL\JGJIT BIT.
CAllII(OTIPPI). (Average cost: $l2.04
and $14.58). If you' ..
e
working within a
tight bu~get fo. the. shop, % and 0 / . bits
can 00 added
as
needed. H o we v .. ~ T would
probably not mess around with high speed
steel first and replacing with carbide. I'd
go right to carbide on these straight bits.
This is especially true on the large'll
straight bit. It takes out such a chunk ith
each pass that it tends to heat up quickly.
Carbide is needed to with stand this heat.
Also thill size bit is often used for cutting
grooves in plywood. And since plywood
tends to destroy HSSbits, carbide is about
the only way to go.
ROUND-OVER 8ITS
Also included in the primary set of bits is a
selection of round-over bits. Before we go
any further, there's a problem to address:
what to call these bits.
They generally go by four different
nam es: ro und-o ve r; ro und ing ov e r, co rn e r
round and quarter round. In addition, if a
sma l le r pilot is used' so a second shou lde i-
can be produced. th~y call be
ca
lied
bead
ing bits. t m
II .
R Q UN D O VE R B IT
The other decision that bas
to
be made
\.;jth y. ' straight 'bits is the length: the
longer the bit, the greater the chance of its
breaking. I've started using straight bits
with
a
maximumorl ' of cutting edge. This
decreases breakage, along with chatter
an d vibration.
W S~RAIGIIT BIll'. IUGII SPEED STEIIL.
(Average cost: $2 .4 3) . This small straight
bit has some obvious uses for detail work,
like
2 Outing
recesses for
m arqu etry
inlays
(see IVoodsm iti t No. 28).
But it would seem that
a '
slJ:aight bit
is far too sm all for general woodwo rk ing ,
Bxactly the opposite is true. This. bit is
almost mandatory in two
CO rnman
circumstances.
A ~ bit is needed when you have to cut
groove or dado ror V, hard wood ply
wood. Although construction (fir) plywood
is generally very close
to
Y . thick, almost
all the
hardwood
plywood we've worked
with is considerably Iess m an V thick. So,
a
Y o straight, bit is needed to cut
greove s
and dadoes in two passes to fit th e actual
thickness of the plywood.
The other primary use for a ~ straight
bit is for ~utting the grooves fo r spline
joints. We've used this tYPe o( joint on
several projects tojoin the ends of
mitered
pieces to form
fram e.
(Refer to Wood-
. itll No. 21.) The V. bit seems easier to
control and p ro du ce s a b ette r g ro o ve than
working with larger
y.
bit.
This is one bit
where
it's difficult to
decide between high speed steel or c ar
bide.
se it enough tojustifycarbide, but
the HSS
version
is
cheap
enough (average
e o s e: $ 2 .4 3) to m ake it disposable when it
gets dull.
II' STRAIGHT 81'r. CARBIOI>Tll'PEO.
(Average cost: $12.93). After the y. and
V. straight bits, it's a tough choice be
tween the * and t . o sizes.
V .
probably
use the Y.j bit. little more often.
It's used a great deal on the router table
to cut rabbets and grooves. Even when 1
have to cut a VI -wide rabbet on the edge or
a board, I use the V : t bit because pro
duces a smoother cut with less chipping.
STRAIGHTBIT
DOUBLERUTE
SIN Gl F l,U T E
N
edge and are designed for maximum chip
clearance. 'I'hls means )'OU can feed the
router faster through the workpiece but
the cut
will
be fairly rough. Double flute
bits give a smoother cut but there will be
more resistance so you 'have to feed a
Uttle slower.
of router bit~ that's better than the others?
Which ~est: Bosch,
Porter-Cable,
Freud, Black and
D ecke r,
or
Sears?
Th is is on. oHhefew times when talking
about woodworking toolB that the choice
between brands is almost impossible to
make, It s kind of like choosing between
Coke and Pepsi. There are some slight
differences, but. when you're looking at
brand name carbide- tipped touter bits, a
bit is a bit,
For the most part, I look at price. B...
yond that its a matter of selection or
variet.y. Everybody carries .straight, bit
and round..uver bits, but each manufac
turer has some specialty profiles or sizes
Ehat the others might not carry.
RECOMMENDED BITS
At the beginning of thi~ article, was
talking about the relative merits of buying
a cheap set of high speed steel bits versus
buying carbide bits right from the start.
Because oHhecost involved, the biggest
prob lem
with buying carbide bits is know
ing which ones Yo 're likely to use often
enough to justify the price of carbide. I've
been trapped both ways in the past.
At first, bought only HSS bits. Then
when I discovered the merits of carbide, [
d ec id ed that w as-the o nly \\ay to go . B u t in
some cases,
J
have to admit that
J
think I
was t ed money on some spc.cialt.}' carbide
bits tha t I \\'OU11d up u sing o nly a C C\\'im e s
when a H SS bit would have done just fln e.
Okay, which bits should be carbide
and
whic h o ne s lIS S? In fact, if you're go ing to
buy carbide bits, which ones should be
considered first?
There are a few bits 1 would consider
partof a primary set for building the kind
of projects we show in lVood8nlit lt. But
buying them as a complete sel.migh~ not be
prac tic a l because of the high initial cost.
Just to give some indication of the kind
of investment we're talking about, we've
listed the average cost of each bit, (This
average cost' was obtained from five
manufacturers: Black and Decker, Bosch,
Freud, Por e r- Cable, and Sears
P ro fess ional' .)
STRAIGHT 81TS
First .on the list is a collection of at least
three straight bits, plus two more if you
want
a c o m plete .se t.
Listed in the order of
m o st. u se , th ey a re :
\
STRAIGHT OIT. CAR810ETI~PEO. 2
FLuTE. (Average cost:
$11.31).
This is per
haps the most basic bit and it gets con
siderableuse in our shop. It can be used for
cutting dadces, rabbets. grooves, and
mott.ises for hinges.
But for being such a basic bit, there are
several controversies associated ,ith it.
First, is best to get a y. straight bit with
one flute or two?
Single flute bits have only one cutting
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21
VOODSMITH
them clean with 0000 steel wool.
One note here: When eleaning bits with
ball be lring pilots, remove the pilot before
dipping the bit in the cleaner. The pnrtlcles
of dissolved resin ean seep into the bearing
and gum It up so badly it won't tum at
all,
SllARVE~ING.\Vhen itcomCl to the sub
ject of .harpening rooter bits, I
have
a few
thoughts that run contrary to the way r
usually work with and maintain tools.
sually try to learn how to sharpen the
tools and keep them ingood working order.
But when
it.
comes
to
ro uter bi ts. I'v e
developed some second thoughts about
sharJl(lning them in the shop.
Carbide bits can be sharpened with a
diamond hone ealled Eze-Lap (see
Sources, p, 24). These bon. .. are like em
ery boards except tbey're coated with
diamond particles.
I've sbarpened a few bits using the
medium and fine-grit diamond hones. But
to
be honest. I'm not sure this i. the best
way
to
approach sbarpening carbide bits.
There are three basic problems: First,
some bits (particularly small-diameter
straight bits) don't have enough clearance
in the flute
to
use the diamond hone.
Second, on the bits that can be sharp
ened. the surface is very small, which
makes it difficult to control the hone to
make sure )IOUre applying even
P I CSSU1 'e
so one area is not being rounded
ov er,
And third, it's very difficult to make
sure the same amount of material Is being
removed from each lIute (cutting edge).
Note: Wben using a diamond hone, only
work on tbe face (fiat) side of the carbide
tip. The outer edge should not be honed
because the
clearance
angle could very
ea sil y
get messed up (and ~be bit won't
cut ,
properly). Also, on bits ,,1thcurved edge
s,
it's almost impossible to keep the same
shape on both flutes (eutting edges).
So .
only hone the race (flat) side.
Besides the diamond hones, I've
also
tried using the Sean; router bit sharpening
attaebment - it's excellent for raising
your blood pressure, but takes enormous
patience togeLit set up
to
actually sharpen
router bits.
There's 8 better way: When the bit
starts getting dull, ake It to pro
fes sional shop to have it sharpened. 'rho
shop we go to charges about
S O
to sharpen
carbide-tipped bit, and they have the
equipment to do thejob right. (They use.
400-grit diamond Wheel, and the bits come
hack extremely sharp - in much better
condition than I could produce by band.)
CONCLUSIONS.
Wben the
router
bits
ar e
sharp, they will do their job. In f ct, when
I'm using a nice sharp bit, l've come to
think oflhe bit as the tool and the outer as
the accessory. And the nicest part of
al l
ibis
is that it only takes a limited number ofbits
ro do. 101or work - an investmenl that's
well worth it.
Another pr ofi le we Uko is what we call
the thumb prolile. Here a
Y
round-over
bit is used on the bottom half or the edge,
combined with Q V I round-over bit on the
top half. se e drawing.
SPECIALTY BITS
In addition
to
the straight bits and round
over bits l isted above, there are four spe
cialty bits worth considering as part of a
plimary set.
\+. I)OVlTAI~ BIT. CA'IIIIIH;.TIPPEI).
(Average cost: S14.66.) Unless you're a
fanatie ror maJring
hand-cut
dovetails, a
dovetail bit is mighty handy for making
dovetail drawers. Of course. you need lhe
dovetail routing
fixture
to go along with iI,
but the whole set-up is worth having. In
addition to cutting drawer joints, this bit is
also used
to
CUI. dovetail tongue and
groove.
t t O
R;\BBETINC RIT, CARUIOETIPP80.
(Average cost: $24.32). Although almost
every project we build has a rabbet on it
somewhere. we seldom use a rabbeting
bit. One reason is the limitation ol the .
wldlh of cut. Another problem Is with
tearout on the bottom of the cut.
See
Talking Shop> page 22 for more on this.)
But when you need
to
cut. rabbet on the
inside edge of an assembled frame, par
ticularly a curved rrame, rabbeting bit
becomes indispensible.
RO)IA.'t OCEE BIT. CARBIDE-TIPPED.
(Average cost: $31.84). There are a few
decorative bits that are worth the Invest-
DOJl(lndingon the depth of cut. it can be
used to produce a small cove cut. By in
creaaing the depth or cut, it produces the
double curve ogee profile. And by lowering
it to I I 1 l I depth it adds a square shoulder to
the ogee profile.
., GROOVE.HIGHS PEED S TEEl . (Aver
age cost: ~.67 .The V groove is anotber
decorative bit that I would add to the
~up. Although its primary use is to cut
V-grooves, It can also be used (on a route
table)
to
chamfer edges. Although we use
tbis bit quite often, we've been able to get
by with the high speed steel version.
COSCLlJSIO~'S.Okay, whal about 810tting
culten and core box bits? No two weed
workers' lists ofrecommended router bits
will ever be the same. But I've tried
to
inc lude all the b its we use on
tl
more or less
~eg lar
basis for the projects sbown in
lV oodsmi l l
Suro there are times when we use a truly
special bit (a panel raising bit. a slotting
cutter, or a keyhole bit, for example) for
specific projects. At that point it's a
matter
deciding the value of the bit for Ibat par
ticular project.. (There's usually some way
I can justify spending money on wood
working to o ls.)
But. no
matter
what style of bit or
whether it's HSS or carbide-Upped. router
bits only do their job
tor
two
basle
reasons:
the speed at which they tum, and the fact
they're sharp. The router provides the
speed. But keeping them clean and
sharp
is
another problem.
CAR J AND SHAR PENING
Just like saw blades, router bits
eo llece
pitch and resin as they're used. This
u8uaUy causes burned edges nnd can im
pede the cutting action or the bit.
Fortunately, it doesn't lake much to
clean router bits.
r
soak them inSean; Gum
and Pitch Remover
lor
a while an d wipe
r ~
$OFJ'N'O OUUNOSO . . . J . . .
/ ~M~il:
'-'-O-lUN V
- o r
ON TOP
h ROUND-O'LE LBJI
set ror a sUghtly deeJl(lr cut
to
include a
, shoulder,
see
drawing.
W ROIINI)OYERUIT. CAI BIOETIPPED.
(Average cost: . 29.22). A I, round-over
bit is also quite useful, but it is. without a
doubt , q uite expensive. A t an average cost
almost $30.
this
is one time when you
might think twice about the merits or ear
bide vs. high
speed
steel. I would
still
choose carbide.
We'\'c come-to use the Y round-over bit
ror
two
profiles that seem to find their way
into n number of projcel$. The first. is a
eo(l.cned bullnose profile. Rather than
using a :Y bit on both edges to produce a
fullbullnose (a half-round edge), a 14' bit is
set to a sballow depth-of-cut to produce a
soner curve and a very pleasant edge. se e
drawing.
[ HOFIL WITH
so u
AI,
HOl lLDEa
ROMAN OGEE
r r
ment. My first choice would be Roman
ogee
bit.
The carbide version of these bits is very
expensive, and you have to Rsk 0 \'-' often
you're
going
to
use the ogee profile todress
up an edge. But in this case, the bit
can
be
used in other ways, sec drawing.
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WOODSMlTH
~
o QUEST IONS
Talking
o
AN O PEN
FO RUM FO R C O MM ENTS
AN
ROUTER ROTATION
Since the
work piece
is fed in the same
direction as the
ro ta tio n
o f the bit, the bit
It Woodsm ith
N o.
36,
the. . .
'008.''''
article
tends topull the workpiec e in the direction
i"Sh"ll N otes
on
, 'OUtil lf1tabllels1
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OODSMITli
FEHa 8EHINDIlADf
* -NCr I '.ON f
l>
kA OI
be in Ille wrong position in our art. Actu
ally, there wasn t mistake. We showed
the fence behind the blade beeause we feel
this is the best position.
As we were preparing the article on
cutting roves, we tested the set up with
the fenee in fronl of the blade, beeause as
many letters suggested, this is the way it s
shown in most books.
B ut when
carne time
to
c ut the
cove
with the fence in this position, I had prob
lems t.rying to feed the workpiece into the
saw blade, while at the same time keeping
it tight against the renee. This requires
applying pressure in two dilTerent di
rections: pushing the workpiece forward,
and pulling it back to hold it tight against
the fence, No matter how many times
tried this method, it always rell very awk
ward to me.
The method I ve used ror years is ,,;th
the fence positioned
bthind
tbe saw blade.
Although, in theory, it might seem like the
blade
would have
enough force
to pul l the
workpiece
aw ay from the
fence,
in
prae
tiee, doesnt.
In fact, it. nol any different
than
mak
ing an ordinary rip cUI- except since Ille
deptb of cut is only about V,, or so, even
less hand pressure i8 needed to push the
piece through the blade.
And this, I feel, is the advantage
to
having the fence behind the blade: the
w ork piece can be fed by applying pressure
in
a
typical straight-forward direction -
just like a rip cut,
This direction feel. very comfortable
to
m e.
But that s only how I feel.
ll-y
it both
ways.
If
it feels better making the cut with
the .
fence in front of the blade, then that s
the ....
y to do it.
Other Ieuers weve received suggest
us ing
two fences,
one on each side of the
w
orkpiece
to
guide it as it . fed into the
blade. Here, the problem is that the fences
have
to
be perfcct.ly parallel
to
each other,
and exactly the same distance apart as the
,,1dth of
the
workpiece,
Considering how difficult it is
to
clamp
one fence in position, trying to clamp a
second
fence can be more aggravation
than it's worth.
resin glues Is that they re formulated to
have the quick grab necessary for
this
kind of glue tacking.
Apply a light coal of glue to the mitered
surfaces, and rub the two pieces against,
each other once or twi ce
to
w o rk out an,) '
excess glue, Al first the joint will slip
around on tho glue, bUI then it w ill grab.
When you feci it grab, make sure the
miters
are
aligned. Then hold
the
joint
together wtthhand
pressure
forGOseconds
or so , kee ping even p1 CSS U 1 C on the jo int
for the entire per io d.
At Ihi. point, tho joint isnt strong
enough to be tossed II1 0undthe shop. but it
w ill hold long enough to make the cut for
the spline, Th~jig also
provldes
support to
the
pieces
so
there s almost
no press ure on
the joint
all
the cut i made,
Then wben the spline is glued into this
groove, It wi l l hold the mitered pieces
together, In elTeet, the spline makes the
joint, not the glue on the mitered sur faces .
CUTTING COVIS ON A TABLESAW
I volut ruti~
Woodsmith
No.
36
and
wou ld like to co nttlt Ott yo r iec hniqUA
lor c.dii'19 COIIU
m a
lobl~
t
fee
there , serioltS ,nstake. in
tne
art
wltich
ho... tI '. /once
al.gled
on
the
back
>id e 01 li te blade, In e lHJry other
boo
rue
seen, li te lece is 8110 ' ' ' in fro nt 01
the
b la de.
T lte problem is tllt ,ulten li te ' l iOYkpiece
i81m itioned i j'rontol lllej'81,cB,
slto.tnt
i
yo u r a rt ic le , tJ lc 1 O tOt ;O) l the sa w
b la de
(6 l1 1U ,
to Pill II,
,ool'kpiLce aICay
fronttl tele c e.TiJi
,eo .
llull IIandpres-
su re ,. , th e
ott l l l
thiJlU
prevt1 lt ing
ike sa w
blade fr om I II ro .c ing
lite
1tYlrk pi ,to , 'Brd
fh . o pmulo r.
B y . .. load ing
lhe
I.nu in lront 01
the
BOlO
blade , l il e roIal ion 01 th e
blade
pllo8i1 a
thellJOri
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WOODSM ITH
4
contact Col. (ReL) ,Valter
1' .
Betley, 2687
Wellesley Drive, Columbus,
O J :
4822 l
)IIOLANO \\tOOI)\\o'ORKRS ASSOCIATION.
This organization has entered its second
.}Ieat
with mont,hly meetings and a quar
t'erly newsletter. Get more inform ation by
contacting Alan T. David, president, Mid
land Woodworkers Association, P.O. Box
1221, .Midland,
M1
48640.
Kru'lSAS CIT}' \VOOI)\VORKERS CUILD.
David
McLamb
st oppe d
by
ou r
offices
to
let us know that Kansas City woodworkers
were get~ing together a new guild.
f
you
are interested you can contaet David
}I[(>Lamb,
Presiden t,
P.O. Box
11284 ,
Kansas Oity, MO 64U9.
CINCINl'tATI WOOOWORIill
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\VOODSMITli
C irc le c utte r, a (iju sta ble 3 3:18 19
Circles, r ou tin g' 2 0:1 3; 21:10 11
OireuJar
~Iil'rQr (ta me 1 ~: 1 0 1 1
T ab le to p'19:3 ; 3 0:12 '15
\Val c lo ck 3 O :JO ll
Claml)iilg
'Ilock, dovetail 32'23
Boards 3 J : 3 ; 3 . 5 : 3
Co rn . ... . 9 4 :3 _
Long
pieces
94 :2 4 ; 3 6 :3
Stops 9: 12
Tab le top 15:7 , 1 ,( :3
Clamps
Hand screws 5 :7 ; 28 :3
Hol d-dow n 1;6
Pip 15:3,7 ; 2 8:3 ; 3 2:1 5; 3 6:3
Wedge,~:3
Clock
D es k
10 :4 ; 33 :J8.19,21 1
M ante l-24:8-l1: 30:23
O c ta go na l w a ll 12: 8 9
Regulator 36:1215 ,24
Round IVal 30:10 } l
S c ho olh ou se 2 1:4 7 : 8 0:2 3
Clubs, l I' oodlVor l< ing ( i$.~ues 27 32,35,36:
page 24)
Co ff ee g ri nd er
3 . ; : 1 6 1 - 7 2 - 1
C offee la ble 1 9:1 4 17 .2.:20 22
Co } n s orter
C olum ns 16:9
'li'a y 1 0:6
Colonial
D ry sink 18:12 J5
W all hutc h 1 8;~ 6-1 9
Compass 7:3; 26:3
C o m po un d m it er s 3 6 : 2
C o ok bo ok /r ec ip e s he lf 6 :4 5
C o olin g ra ck 1:2
Corner
Joint, plywood 22 :3 ; 33 :20 22
Template 29:3
Cove cutting 12: 16 ; 2 0:2 3: 3 6:1 1
Cw io cabinet 21 :12 -15 ; 26 :~ 17 ,24
Cu t o ff
jig
radial arm sa w 22:3
C utting board 1:1;
3 2 :1 0 1 2 ,2 4 ; 2 0:24
Dado.blade,. acjjustable 17:20;23:23; 3~:22
Danish oil finishes 30:12 15
Deck
C ha ir 3 :6 7
S quares 3 :10
penti 26:12.1 9,2 2; 2 9:3 ; 3~ :3 : 36 :3
Denis 15: 3
Desk
.l\ dju sta ble 3). :4 9
Lap~:6
Shaker-style 'V I' it ing J 2 :4'1
D i amond s ha rp en in g stones 24:7
D in ing table
()ireu la r with leaf
30 :1621.24
Contemporary oa k J5: 4-5
Drop-leaf l1 :8 -JO
P ic nic 2 7,:4 7
Buck le, b elt 10 :6
Buffet table', gate- leg
20:14-1.7
BUl le t c a tch 19:12,17
Bullet's tray ta ble 14:10 . l l ,)6 : 16 ,3
Gabine ,t
Bal,ister'
bo okcase
29 :J6 2J ,2 4
B ed side stand 18:4~7
Caddy, two-drawer 31:12-15
Caned panel ca binet and hutch
22 :)8-22
Qh~ir ' S ide 24 :~4 17
Golonial dry s in k 1 8:1 2 15
Colonial
wal l h utc h 1 8:1 6 19
Contem pora r)' hutch 18:4 7
Curi o 2 1:1 2-15; 26 :12-17,24
Eur opean cabinet and hu tch 22:1822
Frame alld panel
8:8-11
Ice bo x 3 6:4 -10
Modular
S lo rag ~
system
2 l:1215
Modular wall unit 33 :8 17
Night
stand 34:16 19
Raised-panel door 8 :7
S hop st orage 25:~ 7
Spool
26:4-6
Tam bour 1 J7:6'9
Tambou r TV 25:14 .19
Thm bou r'I' .1 I 17 ,10 11
Cabin ~t
scrape, '
14:12-1 3; 1 5:7
Camp stool 3:7
Can dle 'S tan d table 11 :6 1
0im
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WOODSM ITli
Dining Tab le lilLl E dg e g lu in g 3 2:1 3-15; 35:23 Hexagon 12:1().U ,14; 16:8-9; 18:3
' re st le 1 :3 -5 ; 2 3: 12 -- 15
ElllpIKl5:8; 1 4: 3; 1 6: 3; 1 9: 3; 2 4: 3
n~s
Disp lay CASe26 :4 - 6, 24 : 26 :12 -17
E nd boards 9:7; 20:24 23:13;
Butler's
tray
ta ble 1 4: 16 ; 1 6:3 ; 2 0: 23
Display
case, W U
9:11
End gm in Drop-leaf : ; 4 :8
Door
Box 15:13 G lass door 25:19
Caned-panel 22: 18- 22
G luing 24:23 Knife 13:8-9
G ,- :
Ii ralnc and
pa nel eo nst ru ctio n
8 :6 .. 8 -1 1 .;
Octagona l Iram e c utting 21:17
Making 19: 3
16 :12-15; 18:,1-19; 24:1 4- 17,20 22: Open-splin e miter 36:22
S an din g 9 : 12
20 :,122;34:10-12 : 3 6:4 -10 Panel c utt in g 8 :1 2; 1 8:2 3: 2 2:1 1; 2 5: 18
Us e 2 4: 23 ; 2 9: 16 -2 1; 3 0: 2
G all., y c lo ck 3O:1() '1I
Pinrouting
28:2()'22
Drawer
G ate-leg buffet table 20:14- 17 Plastic lam inate 23:3
Construction 17: 19 ; 1 8: 20 -2 2: 19: 18;
Glass
Radial-arm router 20:3
22 :6 - 9: 31 :2 ( )' 22 ; 32:18-21; 34:13-15 Cutting 18:16: 17:20 Radial-arm saw cut off 22:3
P lywood 22: 14 -1 5
Door 13:8-9; 22:18.22; 24:9,: 25:19:
Raised
p an el 1 8:1 () .1 l; 2 0:3
R ou ted fro nt 2 1:3
26 :1-17;29:19-20 Resaw ing 6:9; 36:21
D ril l b its 3 2: 23
M OIInting 11:3 Ripping
26 :
13
Dr il l gu ide , Porlaiigll 12:3 13 S.'ll{ling 13:3 Router-cut m ortise 26:3
Drill
press
Glue, hot-melt 4 : 4 Rou tin ro un d b la nk a 2 5: 3
A djustm ent w rench 32:3 Gluing 7:3: 9:3; 10:3,9; 15:7; 17:4-5; 18:3; Tam bour gluing 17:4-S: 25:18
C ollet chuck 12;3: 26:23 19:23: 20:23: 21:9; 23:22; 24:23; 26:11: Taper 1:6: 5:4; 11:3
G uide 1:6
27 :23 ; 28 :9 ,24; 3 1: 3; 3 2; 10 , 1 3- 15 ,2 3
Tenon 16: 18 ; 2 4: 18 -1 9; 2 8: 3
Hole boring jig 22:3 Ed~ 32:13-15 Joinery
M ortises 18:23 End grain 2 4:23
Box
2:4-S: 17:12-13 .19; 35 :12--20
M ortising bits 26;20-21 Frame 26:11; 30:9
Box,
rabbeted 17:19
Proulllol< table elevator 16:20 Inl , 28:9 Corner. p lywood 22:3: 33:20-22
R ou te r c hu ck 12:3 ~liters 21:9; 30:9 Dovetail 19 :6-11: 22:4-9 : 2 3: 3:
32:23
T able support 19:3
Stains
33:23
Dovetail key
31:4-11
Drilling
Tamboura
17;4 5
Dovetail tongue
and
g ro ov e 9 :7 ; 2 0:2 2;
Angle 4:10, 35:22 Goblela.
turned
23:4-7; 24:23 31:20-22
Circles 33:18-19 G rinder tool
rest
20:7; 24:3 D rop-leaf 11:10: 14:7- 8
Dowe l s 33:8: 34:3 G rinding
wheels 2O:4~ 12;
23:23 Finger 17:14-J5 : 3 5: 18 -2 0
Sltop rnit/JM ar k V 29:3
Half-blind dovetail 22:4-9; 3 4:4-9 Frame and panel 8:6,8-11; 18:10-11 ;
Drop-lear
H alC -la p 1 :4 ,7,8;
2:11:
15:8-11 ; 16:6-7; 24 :14 -17 ; 29 :22
Hinge 1I :10: 14:8
22 :18-22; 27:.1-13,22; 29:23 Half-blind
dovetail
22;4-9 ; 34 :4-9
Joint 11 :10; 14:78
H an m irror 21:16 Half-lap 27:22; 29;23
Pembroke table 14:4-8
Hand -cut d ov et ails 22:4-5;
23:3
Half-lap. mitered 2:11
Table 11 :8-10
Hand
screws
15:7; 23 :8 Han d -c ut d ov et ail 19:4-Jl: 22:4-5
D rum sander 35:22
H ead bo ard 3 4:10- 12 Haunched mortise an d te no n 18:8-9
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\VOODSMITH
Qu ar te r ro un d s to ps 36:20
Q uilt rac k 3 2:4 .0
Rabbet and
groove
joint (also called
r ab beUda do ) 6 :8 : 10 :9; 18 :20 21
Rabbeted
Do ve tails 2 1:8
Drawer mnt 18:2C}.21:22 :6-9
F ram e, ro ute d
26:22;
30 :9
nadial arm saw
Cutoff jig 22 :3
R ou ter Jig
20:3
Stand 3 2:3
T ab le i lk oe rt 2 0 :3
Teehnique. 16 :16 ; 1 6:1 6-1 8; 1 8:1 1,2 3;
31:3
R aised -p an el 2 :1 0; 8 :7 :
18:1011,23: 20:3;
23 :23
R asp 2 6:2 8
R ecip e b ox 1 0:8
Regu lato r clock 36 : 12 15
Rcsawing
6:9;
28:4 7 ; 8 5:3 1
R iplbeve l 16 :8
R ipping jig 2 5:13
Ro ll-tep b read b ox 4 :6 -8
R osa n in serts 2 2:
24:3 : 27 :24 ; 28 :24 : 30 : 3
Routed
B ox si de s 1 3:1 2- 13 : 2 8:1 c} '11
D o ve w1 8 2 2:6 -9 ; 3 2: 22
Snack
trny
28: 16-18
Router
Auxiliary base 35:3
B it. g lu in g d ov etail 3 1:2 4
Bit, mOI~i8 ing 26 :20 21
Bit, picture ram. 9: 3; 10 :3; 36 :24
B it, ra is ed p an el
23:23
B uyer's guide 3 1:16-19
Ca.se4:3
C huck w ith drill press 12 :3
D eb ris 2 4:2 3; 3 4: 3
D i re ct io n 3 6 :2 0 -2 1
Do ,'e ta il f ix t. ur es 2 2 :6 -9 ; 2 3 :3 ; 3 2 :2 2 ,2 4
Guide, multi-purpose 17:20
J ig , c en te re d grooves 30:22
Jig, dentil m olding 2 9:3
Jig, lap dovetail 2 2:6 9
Jig, mortlse eutt inl126:S
Jig, ra dln l arm
Saw
20 :3
Jig, round blanks 2 5:S
P in 2 8:2 0 2 2
Plu ng e 2 8:2 3
T ee hn iq ue s 2 0:1 3; 2 1:8 -1 1: 2 5:1 3; 2 6:2 2:
28 :10 .11 ,16 -18 ,20 -22 ; 30 :4-11; 36 : 21
Irammel
attach men t 2 1:1 0: 3 0:9
R ou ter tab le
Cons tr uc ti on 2 0 :1 8- 19 ; 2 2 :1 6 -1 7; 3 1 :3
Inserts
30:3
Pin routing a tta ch m en t 2 8:2 C }.2 2
S ab re 8 IIw s etu p
30:3
S tand 2 2:16-17
Table 8IIW cx ,enslon 24 :8
Vacuum attachm ent 86 :3
Rubbe r cem en t 3 5:2 2
Rule
joint
U10 ; 14:7-8
Rule, Sian dt 84: 8
Safety
15:3;
3 1 :2 3 ; 3 4 :3 ,2 3 : 3 6 :2 3
We-TPlaner,
\Vag
10 :10 ; 15 :7
Sander
Bell 1 5: 7: 3 3 :3 ; 3 5 :2 2
~ lo ld in gs 2 6 :2 2 : 3 6 :U
M ortise
Cutting j ig 1 6:1 8: 1 8:2 3; 2 6:9
Drill
press
18:23
Rout er -cu t, jig 26 :a
Slot
8:4;
10:3: 13:10-11 : 2 6:8 9
itered 16:1 6-18
Thro ugh 15:12
' \vin 12 :12
M ort ise bit s 2 6 :2 c }'21
Mortise
and
tenon
Frame
and
p an el 1 8:1 0-11 ; 26 :7 11
Haunched
8:3-5;
13:1c}'11; 18:8-9
Mo ld ed e dg e 2 4:1 2- 13
itered16:16-18
Open
24:18-19
'l\vin tenon 12:12
W e dg ed 1 5:12
M un tins 18 :8- 9
M usic x 6 :6 -7; 28 :4 .7 ,211
Nai ling fixture 15: 3
Nestled tables 2 8:12 16
N ig ht stand 3 4:16 -19
Note board 18:24
Oetagon
12 :8 -9 : 1 6 :1 0 : 2 1 :,1 7
Frame
jig 2 1:1 7
Oil f in is h es 30 :12 -15 : 3 2:7 9; 3 6: 28
O pe n- sp lin e m it er 3 6: 22
O rn am en ts , C hr is tm a s 6 :1 c} '1 2
Outdoor
F ur nit ur e 3 :8 12 ; 2 7:4 13
Finis hes 27: 14 15
Palm
sanders 14 :12 ; 3 6:7
P an el cutt ing 8:12 ; 18:23 ;
22 :11 ;
25: 13
Par allel 'sp line
9:9
Pa tio c ha ir 27:8-11
Pem broke table 14:4 8
P en ci l a nd
card
holder 2 :12
P ic nic ta ble 2 7:4 -7
Picture
frame
router bit 9:3 ; 10 :3
Picture
and
glass
m ou ntin g 1 1:3
Pin rou ting 28 :1C} .1116-18 ,20-22
P ip e c lam ps 1 5:3 ,7 ; 2 8:3 ;
36:3
Plane
A
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W OOOSMIT1'1
Te no n,
ont
Repair ing round 2 8 : 3
Staggered shoulder 13: 10-11
Stub
2 9 :2 2 ; 3 1: 4- 9; 3 3 :2 0
Thin 12 :12
Thre-
ade d inserts
22 :11 ; 2 4: 3; 27 :2 4; 2 8:2 1;
30:3
Tie rack 1:2
T iSS lle box 2 :5 ;
19:24
' b ng ue an d g ro ov e jo in t
9 :7 : 2 9 :2 2
31:12 -15 .2 0 -22 ; 3 3 :2 0 -22
Tho1 rest grinder 2 0 :7 : 2 4 ;3
Tool s torage
4:9.12
by
Biplane
35:8-11,24
Chest 29:4-9,24
Race car 5:12
hin5:1 11
lhItk 35:4-7,24
y
R ou te d s na ck
28:16-18
Serving 19:
19
Snack
28 :16-18
' testle
Bench
23:24
Leg a ss emb ly ( de sk ) 31:4-9
Tab le 1 :8 -5;
2 8 : 1 2-15
Ih~eI1 :2 4; 2 2:28
'lU n g o il fin ish
3 0 :1 2- 15 : 3 2 :7 -9 ,2 4; 3 6:2 8
' l \u-ning
Bowl
21:18-2 1; 25:24
Can ister
14:14 -16 ; 2 6:8 12 ; 27 :3 ; 30:28
Fruit bow l 21: 18-2 1
Goblets
23:4 -7 ; 2 4:23
Gouge s
21:2 2; 2 4:2 8
Leg s
12 :S
Popcorn bowl 26 :24
Ser ape r
21: 22 ;
2 2 : 2 : 1
Spindle
26:3
' boIs
21: 18 -2 2; 2 2:2 8; 2 4:2 3
TV tray table .
16:4-7: 17:20
Vanit y mi rr o r 2>1:24
V en ee r 1 4:1 0- 11 ; 3 3: 18 -19
Veneer
tape
17 :8 ; 2 2 :11 -14;
Vtse
Dogs 28:3
Ho ld ing J ig
29:3
Wag> Safe-T-Planer
10 :1 0: 1 5: 7
WalIlanlem. English 36:16-19,24
'''all
mirror 21: 16 ; 2 6: 1~ 19 ,2 4; 3 4: 20 -2 1
Wall
shelf 20:20-21
Wal l un it
33:8-17,24
\v as te b as ke t 7: 5
Wate r s to n es , J ap an es e
2 4:~ ; 2 6:2 3; 3 1:23
W eb
frame
construction 8 :8 11 : 22 :18 :
2 9:4 -2 1: 31:4-9
W ed ge clam ps ;;:3
Wood
Dimensions
22:28
Information 36:24
Movement
9 :7 ; 31:23
Outdoor us e
3 :11 ; 2 7:14-15
Sample kits 34:23
Spalted
28:23
Storage
19 :2 3 : 3 0 :3
W ooden h ing es 9 :5 -1 1
W oo dworking clu bs (is su es
27-33,35,86:
pag e
24)
Spline,
eo /
Use
23:22: 32:14-15
S po ol di$p lay case 26: 4-6
Spo on d is pla y e as e
9: 11
S pray M o un t 3 6 : 2 2 - 2 8
Starret t rules
3 .1:2 8
St ave eons tr uc ti on 2 6 :8 -9 ,2 4 ; 2 7 :3 ; ; 10 :2 3
Stereo
cabinet,
tambour
17:6-9
S tic ke r s tains 3 4:2 2
Stones
Diamond
24:7
J ap an es e w ate r
24 :~ ; 26:23 ; 31:23
Sharpening
2 0 :4 -7 ,1 2- 13 ; 2 1: 28
Stool
Camp
3: 7
Child's 35:12-13
Shop
.1:11
S topped mo ld in g < : U U l
36:20-21
StOPped r abbet s
36:21
Storage
~ Iodul ar s ys tem
22: 12-15
Modular 8 1 1 unit
33:8-17
Shop 15:14-15
Table saw
13:11-1 5
Swea te r che st
9:8-9
Tab le
But1 er'~
tray 14:10-11,16
Cunel le s tand
11 :6 -7
Coffee
1:7 ; 19 :14 -17: 26:20-22
Contempo ''a ry oak 16:4-.
ining
11:8 ; 15:4 ; 2 0:\4 ; 2 8:12 ; 30 :16
Drop -lea f 11 :8 -10; 14 :4 -8
Gate leg buf fet 20:14 .. 17
Kitchell 15 :4 {
Lellf 30:18-19
Nes tled
28 :12-1.
Picn ic 27:4- 7
Pembroke
14:4-8
Shaker-style side 11 :4-5
Trestle 1: 3- 5; 2 3 : 12 -15
V
tray
16:4-7
Table saw
Bevels
23:3
Blades , carbide- lipped 27:16-21,24 :
28 :19,23
Compound m it er s 36 :21
C ov e c uttin g jig
36:11
Cu tt in g p la st ic l am i na te
33:3
D ad o b la de, adiustable 17:20
Insert
35:23
Mi te r g aug e
25:3
Setup
20-.3
Tambour
R oll-to p b rea d b ox
4:6-8
S te re o c ab in et
17:6-9
Teehniques 4:6-8: 17 :4 -1 1; 2 0 :3 : 2 6 :1 4-19
V
cabinet
25:14-19
Wall cabine ,
17 :10-11
Taper
B. el
16:10-11
Cut.ting
32: 10-12
Ji g
1:6 ; 5 :4 ; 11:3
Thper< )d l egs 11 :11 ; 14:4-8: 28: 12-13
non
Cutting
18 :10- 11 ; 26 :10- 11
Ha unehed
18 :8 -9
Ji g 24: 18-19
Mite red shou lder
16 :16-17
Sander,
Olli
Drum
35:22
Palm 33 :7 ; 3 4 :3 ,2 2
Rockwtll
S f d
8 c
1,1:12 :3 3 :7
Sander sta nd , b elt
10: 10
Sanding
Circles 11 :1 2
D isk 1 3:3 ; 15 :3 : 3 1:3
Dowels
9:12
Drum
13: 3; 1 5: 3; 2 6 :: 1:
32:3
G lass 13 :3
Tab le to p
15:7
Sandpaper
33:~ ; 34 :3
S a w dovetail 19:5
S aw
blade
Band 10 .3
D ad o b la de 34:22
Table, carbide- tipped
27:16-21.24:
28:19,23
Cleaning
17 :3 : 21 :23
Sehoolhou.se
c lo ck 2 1:4 -7 : 3 0: 28
Seonee,
candle
6 :5
S cra p w oo d p ro je cts 3 :1 2; 10 :4 -8 : 14 :1 1-15
Sc ra pe r, c ab in et
14: 12 13 ; 1 6: 7
Sc r ew s
Brass
18:3
Sheet
rock 18 :3 : 1 9:2 3
Serving
Cart
28:8-11
t ay 19 :19
Shake r- style
Peg ra c k 2 :8
Step stand 19 :20 22
Thble U :4 -9
W riting des k
12:4-7
Sha per
Bit 12:3,10- )1
Guide s
19:23
Sha rpening
A id s 2 :7; 8 1: 3; 3 3 :3
Carbide-tip ped table
W
blades
28:
19
ChiJsels
20:8-11 : 26:23
D iam ond sto ne s 2 4:7
Ja pa ne se w ater stones 2 - 1 : > 1 - 6 ;2 6 : 2 8 :
31:2 3
Plane
irons 28:18-19
Scraper
blade
14:13
Stone.
20 :4 - 7. 12 -13 ; 21 :2 :1
Tab le s aw b la de .
28:19
Shelf
Aligning
brackets 11:3