SanMar Glossary of Terms August 2020
1x1RibKnit.Thisnarrowribhasasoft,finehandandretainsitsslimfit.2x1RibKnit.Texturedribknitwithacomfortablestretch—madetobewornaloneorlayered.2-WayZipper.Azipperwithtwozipperpullssothegarmentcanbeunzippedfromeitherdirection.3-in-1Jacket.Ajacketthatconsistsoftwojacketlayersthatziptogether.Youcanweareitherjacketlayerseparately,orzipthemtogetherforextrawarmthandweatherprotection.4-NeedleStitching.Afinishcommonlyusedonasleeveorbottomhemthatusesfourneedlestocreateparallelrowsofvisiblestitching,givingthegarmentacleaner,morefinishedlook,aswellasaddingdurability.4-WayStretch.Afabricthatstretchesbothonthecrosswiseandlengthwisegrainsofthefabric.Alsocalledmechanicalstretch,exceptmechanicalstretchdoesn’tusespandexorotherstretchyarns.AirJetYarn.Atypeofopen-endspinningthatusesastationarytubeinwhichjetsofairaredirectedtocausefiberstotwisttherebyformingayarn.Thisprocessdefinitelyinfluencesthesofthandfeelofthefabricwhilemaintainingexcellentresistancetopilling.AirlumeCombedandRingSpunCotton(BELLA+CANVAS).100%Airlumecombedandringspuncotton,32singles.BELLA+CANVASremoves2.5xmoreimpuritiesthanstandardringspuncottonandusesonlylongcottonstaples,whichmeanstherearefewerstrayfiberswhentheyarnisspun,resultinginasmootherprintsurface.All-WeatherMicrofiber.Fabricthatistightlywovenfromanextremelyfinepolythreadwithasuededfinishforaluxuriouslysupplefeel.Whencombinedwithwaterproofcoatingandfullseamsealing,microfiberis100%waterproof.100%polyester.ANSI.TheAmericanNationalStandardsInstitute(ANSI)isanorganizationthatpromotesstandardsforindustryandgovernment.ANSIClass2.AnANSIdesignationforgarmentsthatareintendedforactivitieswheregreatervisibilityisnecessaryduringinclementweather.Italsocoversworkerswhoperformtasksthatdiverttheirattentionfromapproachingtrafficorputsthemincloseproximitytovehiclestraveling25mphorhigher.
ANSIClass3.AnANSIdesignationforgarmentsthatprovidethehighestlevelofvisibilityandareintendedforworkerswhofacemoreserioushazardsthanClass2.Antimicrobial.Atermusedforagarmentthatisabletoresist,eithernaturallyorchemically,theeffectsofmicrobialsecretionsputoffbythehumanbody,resistingodorandincreasinggarmentlife.Anti-PillFinish.Atreatmentappliedtogarmentsprimarilytoresisttheformationoflittleballsonthefabric’ssurfaceduetoabrasionduringwear.SeePilling.ArcRating.Avalueoftheenergynecessarytopassthroughanygivenfabrictocausewith50%probabilityasecond-orthird-degreeburn.Thisvalueismeasuredincalories/cm2.Simplyput,theArcratingdeterminestheprotectivecharacteristicsofthefabric.ThehighertheArcratingvalue,thegreatertheprotection.Articulation.Adesigndetailusuallyintheshoulders,elbowsorkneeswherelimbsbendtoincreasemobilityforgreatereaseofmovement.ATPV.StandsforArcThermalProtectiveValue:aratingoftheArcburnprotectioncapabilityofagarment.ThehighertheArcrating,themoreprotectionagarmentgivesbecauseithasahigherresistancetocatchingonfire.TheATPVisexpressedincalories/cm2andrepresentsthethermalexposurefromanelectricarcthatwillcreateasecond-degreeburninhumantissue.Athleisure.Themovementwhereclothingdesignedforathleticsiswornoutsidethegymtotheofficeortosocialize.BabyPiqueKnit.Aknittingmethodthatcreatesafine,smalltexturedsurfacethatappearssimilartoaverysmallwaffleweave.SeePiqueKnit.BackYoke.Apieceoffabricthatconnectsthebackofagarmenttotheshoulders.Thisallowsthegarmenttolayflatanddrapenicely.Bartack.Toreinforceaseamwithabarofstitches,providingamoredurableseamend.Commonlyusedatstresspoints.BaseLayer.Wornnexttotheskin,abaselayerwickssweatandkeepsthewearerdrierandmorecomfortable.BiasCut.Atechniqueusedbydesignersforcuttingclothingtoutilizethegreaterstretchinthe“bias”ordiagonaldirectionofthefabric,therebycausingittoaccentuatebodylinesandcurvesanddrapesoftly.BlanketStitch.Adecorativestitchoftenusedtofinishanunhemmedblanket.Thestitchcanbeseenonbothsidesoftheblanket.
Blend.Ayarnorafabricthatismadeupofmorethanonetypeoffiber.BlindStitchHem.(Alternative).Asewingstitchproducingstitchesvisibleononesideonly.BondedFleece.Multiplelayersoffleecearebondedtogethertoformahigherfunctioninggarment.Bonding.Thetechniqueofpermanentlyjoiningtogethertwofabricsorlayersoffabricstogetherbyabondingagentintooneunit.BoxPleat.Asingle,uniformfoldinthecenterbackofagarmenttoallowformoreroomandcomfort.Breathability.Themovementofairfromonesideofthefabrictotheothertokeepthewearercomfortable.Thebreathabilityratingistypicallyexpressedinagrammeasurementofhowmuchvaporasquaremeter(G/M2)offabricwillallowtopassina24-hourperiod(typically,1,000G/M2to10,000000G/M2).Generally,thehigherthenumber,themorebreathablethegarment.Brushed.Afinishingprocessforknitorwovenfabricsinwhichbrushesorotherabradingdevicesareusedtoraiseanaponfabricsorcreateanoveltysurfacetexture.Button-DownCollar.Foundonmanymen’sdresswovens,wherethecollar’swingscanbebuttonedtothefrontoftheshirt,minimizingthespreadbetweenthewings.Button-ThroughSleevePlacket.Asmallplacketlocatedneartheendofthesleeve,bythecuff,whichcontainsasinglebuttonclosure.CamoHex(Sport-Tek).Asublimateddigitalcamouflagethatusessmallhexagonsinatonalpattern.CardedRingSpunCotton.Cardedyarnshavenotbeencombed.Theycontainawiderrangeoffiberlengthsand,asaresult,arenotasuniformorasstrongascombedyarns.CarharttForce®(Carhartt).Gearthatcombinesover130yearsofhands-onexperiencewiththemightiestheat-defyingtechinashirt.FeaturesFastDry®sweat-wickingtechnology,plusodor-fightingabilities.CasualMicrofiber.Tightlywovenfabricfromaveryfinepolyesterthread,usuallywithasuededfinishforasoftfeel.Inherentlywaterrepellentandwindresistantduetoitsconstruction.100%polyestermicrofiber.
Category2Protection(Bulwark).Arc-ratedflame-resistant(FR)longsleeveshirtandFRpantsorFRcoverallwitharequiredminimumATPV(ArcThermalProtectiveValue)of8cal/cm2.Chambray.Aplainwovenfabricthatcanbemadefromsilkormanufacturedfibers,butismostcommonlycotton.Itincorporatesacoloredwarpandwhitefillingyarns.Chinguard.Afoldofsoftfabricaroundtheendofthezipperthathelpspreventabrasion.Alsoknownasazippergarage.Coil(OGIO).Ametalliccoloredcoilzipper.Collar.Theuprightorturned-overneckbandofacoat,jacketorshirt.CollarStand.Onawovenshirt,thecollarstandisaroundtheneckandplacedbetweentheactualcollarandtheshirt.Thisstandraisesthecollarsoitsfinishededgewillfallsmoothlybackovertheneckedge.CollectiveSystem(PortAuthority).Aversatilesystemofouterwearstylesthatcanbecustomizedtomeetavarietyofclimatesanduniformingneeds.Colorfast.Adyedfabric’sabilitytoresistfadingduetowashing,exposuretosunlightandotherenvironmentalconditions.CombedRingSpunCotton.Aprocessbywhichtheshortfibersofayarnareremovedandtheremaininglongerfibersarearrangedinparallelorderforahigh-qualityyarnwithexcellentstrength,finenessanduniformity.CordLocks.Astopperortoggleonadrawcordthatkeepsthecordfromretractingintothegarment.Corduroy.Acutfillingpileclothwithnarrowtowideribs.Usuallymadeofcotton,butcanbefoundinpolyesterandothersyntheticblends.Cotton.Softvegetablefiberobtainedfromtheseedpodofthecottonplant.CottonCount.Ameasureofthreaddensity.Itistheamountofthreadmeasuredin“hanks”(840yards)neededtocreateonepound.Withthissystem,thehigherthenumber,thefinertheyarn.IntheUnitedStates,acottoncountbetweenoneand20isreferredtoascoursecounts.Aregularsingleknitt-shirtcanbebetween15-18countandafashionteeisusuallyinthe30-40countrange.CottonJersey(Alternative).Alternative’scottonjerseyismadefrom100%washedcottonforadistinctlysoft,beautifullysimpleproductthatisrichincolorandvelvetysmoothtothetouch.
Coverseamed.Afinishinwhichtwoneedlesareusedtocreateparallelrowsofvisiblestitching.Itisusedaroundtheneck,armholes,waistbandandwristsofgarmentstocreateacleaner,moredurablefinish.CriticallySeam-Sealed.Select(orcritical)seamsaretapedwithwaterprooftape.Thishelpspreventmoisturefromgettinginthroughtheseamswhereitismostlikelytooccur—suchastheshoulders,armholesorhood.Cuff.Thepartofthesleeveencirclingthewrist.Alsotheturned-backhemofatrouserleg.CVC(ChiefValueCotton).Inacotton/polyesterblendedyarn,theamountofcottonfibermakesupover50%oftheblend.CVCshirtsareoftenanattractivelower-pricedoptiontotraditionalcotton/polyester/modaltri-blendshirts.Deboss.Todepressbelowthesurroundingfabricsurfacefordecorationorlettering.Oftenconfusedwithembossingwhichistoraiseinrelieffromasurface.Denier.Asystemofmeasuringtheweightofacontinuousfilamentfiber.Thelowerthenumber,thefinerthefiber;thehigherthenumber,theheavierthefiber.DiamondEra(NewEra).Inspiredbytheiconicfabricusedintheirfamousbaseballcaps,thistexturedfabricwicksmoistureandresistssnags.Dobby.Adecorativeweave,usuallygeometric,thatiswovenintothefabric.Standarddobbyfabricsareusuallyflatandrelativelyfineorsheer.DolmanSleeve.Asleevetaperedfromaverylargearmholetofitcloselyatthewrist.Usuallycutinonepiecewiththebodyofthegarment.DoubleKnit.Acircularknitfabricknittedviadoublestitchonadoubleneedleframetoprovideadoublethickness.Double-NeedleStitching.Afinishcommonlyusedonasleeveorbottomhemthatusestwoneedlestocreateparallelrowsofvisiblestitching,givingthegarmentacleaner,morefinishedlook,aswellasaddingdurability.Down.Thesoft,fluffyunderfeathersofducksandgeese.Servesasanexcellentouterwearthermalinsulator.Dri-FIT(NIKE).Fabricthathelpskeepthewearercomfortableanddrybymovingperspirationfromtheskin,throughthelayersoffabric,totheoutsidelayerforrapidevaporationacrosstheoutersurfacearea.Dri-Mesh®Polyester.Thedoublelayermeshconstructionreleasesheatandsweat,whilemaintainingbreathability.100%polyesterdoublemesh.
DropNeedle.Aknitfabriccharacterizedbyverticallineswithinthecloth.Manufacturedbydroppinganeedlefromtheknittingcylinder.DropTail.Alongerbackthanfrontforthepurposeofkeepingtheshirttuckedin.AlsoreferredtoasExtendedTail.DryVent™(TheNorthFace).Stylesthatareengineeredtobefullywaterproof,windproofandbreathable.DryZone®Technology.Adouble-layerpolyesterfabricationthatwicksmoistureawayfromthebody.DuckCloth.Tightlywoven,plain-weave,bottom-weightfabricwithahard,durablefinishthatprovideswindandsnagresistance.DWR.Durablewaterrepellent.ADWRtreatmentinvolvesapplyingacoatingtoajacket’soutermostfiberstopreventprecipitationfromsaturatingthejacket'sexterior.Dyed-To-Match.Atermwhichcharacterizesbuttonsortrimsthatarethesamecolorasthegarmentontowhichtheyaresewn.
E-H
EasyCare.Ingeneral,wovenshirtswitha60/40cotton/polyesterblendthatperformwithattributeslikewrinkleresistanceorstainrelease.Eco-Jersey(Alternative).Thisclassicmedium-weightjerseyfeaturesasignaturevintage-softfeelandismadefromecoingredients,includingrecycledpolyester,organiccottonandrayonyarns.Eco-Fleece(Alternative).Alternative’siconicmedium-weightEco-Fleeceisknitonmachinescalibratedtoreplicateavintage-softlookandfeel.EcoSmart®(Hanes)50/50cotton/polyblendteesandsweatshirtsmadewithupto5%recycledpolyesterfromplasticbottles.EnzymeWashed.Alaunderingprocessinwhichacatalyticsubstanceisaddedtocreateachemicalchangeinthefabricresultinginaverysoftfinish,smootherappearingsurfaceandreducedshrinkage.Epaulet.Anornamentalfabricstriporloopsewnacrosstheshoulderofashirt,dressorcoat.Ergonomic.Designelementsincorporatedintoagarmenttoimprovethedesignbyenhancingthewearer’scomfort,performanceorhealth.EXCELFR®ComforTouch®(Bulwark).Thispractical88/12cotton/nylonblendprovideslong-lastingprotectionfornearlyallworkenvironments.Applicationsincludeferrousmetals,electricalutilitiesandthechemical,oil,gasandpetrochemicalindustries.EveryEXCELFRComforTouchgarmentisengineeredtoprovideflameresistanceforthelifeofthegarment.ExtendedTail.Alongerbackthanfrontforthepurposeofkeepingtheshirttuckedin.AlsoreferredtoasDropTail.Eyelets.Smallholesorperforationsmadeinaseriestoallowforbreathability.Finishedwitheitherstitchingorbrassgrommets.EZCotton®.Soft,smoothanddurable100%cottonpiquethatresistsshrinking,wrinkling,pillingandfading.FastDry®(Carhartt).Carhartt’stechnologythatwicksawaysweatawayfromthebodyforinstantevaporation.FeatherweightFrenchTerry™(District).Vintage-inspiredstylesmadeof70/30combedringspuncotton/polyFrenchterry,40singles.
FillPower.Themeasureoftheloftor“fluffiness”ofadowngarmentthatislooselyrelatedtotheinsulatingvalueofthedown.Thehigherthefillpower,themoretrappedairanounceofthedowncantrap,andthusthemoreinsulatingabilityanounceofthedownwillhave.FirmDuck(Carhartt).Carhartt’sstrongestcottonduck.Themostdurablecanvasoutthere.Builtwithaddedtoughness,firmduckiswater-repellent,wind-resistantandrugged.Ifyouwanttobreakinyourjacketandpants,firmduckisforyou.Flame-Resistant(FR).Thesefabricsandgarmentsareintendedtoresistignition,preventthespreadofflamesawayfromtheimmediateareaofhighheatimpingementandtoself-extinguishalmostimmediatelyuponremovalofanignitionsource.FRclothingisNOTfireproof.FlatBackMesh(Sport-TekRacerMesh).Adouble-plypolyesterknitfabricconsistingofanopen-holemeshlayerwithapolyesterlayerbehindtomakeit“flatback”.Yougetthebreathabilityofmeshwithoutshowinganyskin.FlatCollar/Cuffs.Asingleplyfabricwithafinishededgethatisusedforcollarsandcuffsonsportshirtsandshortsleevegarments.Alsoknownaswelt.FlatlockStitching.Madebybringingtworawfabricedgestogetherandcoveringthemwithmachinestitching.Oftenusedinactivewear.Flexfit®.TheoriginalstretchablehatfeaturingFlexfitstretchablesweatbandtechnology.FlexVentSuspensionSystem(TheNorthFace).Backpackswithcustominjection-moldedshoulderstrapsandapaddedmeshbackpanelwithaspinechannelformaximumsupportandventilation.FlowyPoly-Viscose(BELLA+CANVAS).65/35poly/viscose,32singles.Thismaterialhasanextremelysoft,silkyhandthatfeelslikeanelevatedfabricthatyoufindinretailstores.Flowystylesdrapeawayfromthebody,givingitthatslightlyoversizedfit.FrenchCuff.Ashirtcuffthatisfoldedbackbeforefastening,creatingadouble-layeredcuff.FrenchPlacket.Abutton-frontshirtwithoutaseparatepiecedplacket.Thefabricissimplyfoldedoverandthebuttonholestitchingsecuresthetwolayers.Thismethodaffordsaverycleanfinish.
FrenchTerryCotton.Theknitjerseyversionofterrycloth.Itfeaturesloopsofpileononesideandasmooth,brushedfinishontheotherforsoftnessandalived-in,vintagelook.FullCut.Referstoagarment'sfitasbeinggenerousandroomy.FullyFashioned.Agarmentthat’sknittedtofittheshapeofthebody.FullySeam-Sealed.Everyseamthroughoutthejacketissealedwithwaterprooftapetohelppreventwaterfromleakingin.Garment-Dyed.Adyeingprocessthatoccursafterthegarmenthasbeencut,sewnandassembled.GarmentWashed.Awashprocesswheresoftenersareaddedtofinishedgarmentstohelpthecottonfibersrelax.Theresultisafabricwithathickerappearance,reducedshrinkageandasofterhand.Gingham.Cottoncloththathasapatternofcoloredsquaresonawhitesurface.Grosgrain.Afirm,closelywovenfabricwithnarrowhorizontalstripes.Commonlyusedforribbons,necktiesandtrimmings.Hand.Qualityorcharacteristicoffabricsperceivedbysenseoftouch—softness,firmnessordrapeability.Heatseeker(TheNorthFace).Syntheticinsulationthatprovidesadditionalwarmth.HeatherCVC(BELLA+CANVAS).52/48Airlumecombedandringspuncotton/poly,32singles.ChiefValueCotton(CVC)referstoacottonandpolyesterblendwithaheavierpercentageofcotton.Thepolyesterblendgivesasubtle,texturedlooktoalightweightteewithasupersofthand.HeritageBlend(NewEra).A60/40ringspuncombedcotton/polyblendthatcreatesanunbelievablysoftteewiththecomfortofapastera.Herringbone.Achevronorzig-zagpatternknitintofabric.Commonlyusedingolfshirtsandtwillshirts.HighProfile.Atermusedforacaporhatsilhouettethatislessfittedtotheheadwithahighslope.Usuallystructuredwithbuckramorotherstifffabriclining.HookandLoop.Afastenerclosuresystem.Theroughsideiscalledthehook.Itssoftermateiscalledloop.Thehooksengageintotheloopandprovidetheclosure.ColloquiallyknownasVELCRO®.
HornToneButtons.Buttonsthatappeartobemanufacturedfromhorn.Houndstooth.Amedium-sizedbrokencheckeffectthatisknitintothefabric.
I-MIL50(IndustrialLaundry).Signifiesthatagarmenthasbeentestedthrough50industriallaundererwashes.InsulatedJacket.Ajacketdesignedtoholdbodyheatcloseandbuffersurroundingcoldair.Down,fleeceandsyntheticfibersarecommoninsulators.Insulationlevelshelpdeterminewarmthratings.InterlockKnit.Atwo-plyfabricknitsimultaneouslytoformonethickerandheavierply.Ithasmorenaturalstretchthanajerseyknit,asofthand,andthesameappearanceandfeelonbothsides.Commonlyusedinknitshirtsandturtlenecks.JacquardKnit.Oftenanintricatepatternknitdirectlyintothefabricduringthemanufacturingprocess.Typically,twoormorecolorsareused.JerseyKnit.Theconsistentinterlopingofyarnsinthejerseystitchtoproduceafabricwithasmooth,flatfaceandamoretextured,butuniformback.JockTag(NewEra).Arectangularpieceofwovenfabriclocatedatthehemofathleticjerseys.KangarooPocket(Alternative).Anothernameforafrontpouchpocketinasweatshirtort-shirt.Calledasplitkangaroopocketinafull-zipgarment.LapShoulders(RabbitSkins).Adetailininfantteesandbodysuitsinwhichthefabricoverlapsatthenecklineandshouldersforeasierchanging.Linen.Afabricmadefromlinenfibersobtainedfrominsidethewoodystemoftheflaxplant.Linenfibersaremuchstrongerandmorelustrousthancotton.Linenfabricsareverycoolandabsorbent,butwrinkleeasily,unlessblendedwithmanufacturedfibers.LockerLoop.Aloopedpieceoffabricintheneckofagarmentfortheconvenienceofhangingthegarmentonahook.Canalsobelocatedatthecenterofthebackyokeontheinsideoroutsideofagarment.LockerPatch.Asemi-ovalpanelsewnintotheinsidebackportionofagarment,justunderthecollarseamtoreinforcethegarmentandminimizestretchingwhenhungonahook.Thepatchalsoallowsforthegarmenttagorlabeltobesewnbelowthenecklinetohelppreventirritation.
LowImpactTechnology(L.I.T.™)(EddieBauer).Adyeingtechnologythatusessignificantlylessdyestuffs,thermalenergyandwateryetachievesthesameresultsasconventionaldyeingmethods.L.I.T.enhancessoftness,performanceandafter-carequality.LowProfile.Atermusedforacaporhatsilhouettethatismorecloselyfittedtothehead.Canbeeitherstructuredorunstructured.Marble(BELLA+CANVAS).91/9poly/Airlumecombedandringspuncotton,32singles.Thisfabrichasgreatdimensionandisawesomeforgraphictees.Ithasareallysofthandandcooltexture.MatteTaslan.Adurableandwaterrepellentnylonfabric,usedmainlyinouterweargarments.SamepropertiesandhandastraditionalTaslan,butwithadull,mattefinish.Melange.Amixofdifferentcolorsofyarnsknittogethertocreateaheatheredeffect.Mesh.Atypeoffabriccharacterizedbyitsnet-likeopenappearanceandthespacesbetweentheyarns.Meshisavailableinavarietyofconstructions,includingwovens,knits,lacesorcrochetedfabrics.Microfiber.Tightlywovenfabricfromaveryfinepolyesterthread,usuallywithasuededfinishforasoftfeel.Inherentlywaterrepellentandwindresistantduetoitsconstruction.Microfleece.Craftedfromultra-fineyarn,thislightweight,high-densityfleeceisbrushedlessthanaregularfleecegarmentforsoftnessandwarmthwithoutbulk.Mid-Layer.Wornoverthebaselayer,thislayertrapswarmair,breathesandhelpsmaintainbodyheat.MidProfile.AtermusedforacaporhatsilhouettethatisinbetweenthatofaHighProfileandLowProfile.Mostoftenstructuredwithbuckram.MittenCuffs(OGIOEndurance).Cuffsthatfoldover(likemittens)tocompletelycoverthehandsforadditionalwarmth.ModernStretchCotton.Abreathablefabricmadefromablendofcottonandspandextoprovideaflatteringstretch.96%cotton.4%spandex.
N-RNailhead.Ajacquardknittingpatterninwhichthejacquardformsadesignsimilartosmallnailheads.Nap.Afuzzy,fur-likefeelcreatedwhenfiberendsextendfromthebasicfabricstructuretothefabricsurface.Thefabriccanbenappedononeorbothsides.Neckband.Astripoffabricsewnaroundtheinsideoftheneckinawovenshirt.NFPA®2112Compliant(Bulwark).BulwarkProtectiveAppareloffersflame-resistantprotectivegarmentsthatarecertifiedbyUnderwritersLaboratoriestomeettherequirementsofNFPA2112StandardonFlame-ResistantGarmentsforProtectionofIndustrialPersonnelAgainstFlashFire,2012Edition.NFPA2113StandardonSelection,Care,UseandMaintenanceofFlame-ResistantGarmentsforProtectionofIndustrialPersonnelAgainstFlashFire,2018Edition,requiresthatgarmentscovertheupperandlowerbodyandflammableunderlayersascompletelyaspossible.Bulwarkgarmentsmeetthisrequirementeitherasasinglegarmentsuchasacoverallorwhenwornwithanothercertifiedgarmentsuchasashirtorpantstoprovidebothupperandlowerbodycoverage.Non-Iron.Atermcharacterizingfabricthathasbeenchemicallytreatedtoresistwrinkles,eliminatingtheneedforironing.Nublend®Fleece(JERZEES®).AcombinedknittingandspinningprocessdevelopedbyJERZEESforthepreventionofpilling.Nylon.Asyntheticfiberwithhighstrengthandabrasionresistance,lowabsorbencyandgoodelasticity.Odor-Resistant.Anti-odortechnologycapturesandblocksorkillsodor-causingbacteriathatcomesfromthebody.Itneutralizesthebacteriabeforeitinteractswithsweat,reducingtheamountofbodyodor.Whenbacteriacan'tmixwiththemoisturefromsweat,odorsvanish.Open-EndCotton.Openend(OE)spinningisatechnologytomakeyarnswithoutaspindle.OEyarnshavelesstwistbutamoreuniform,abrasion-resistantsurfaceandareproducedatmuchfasterspeedsthanotherspinningtechnologies.FabricsmadefromOEyarnsgenerallyhaveacleanerappearancebutarelesssoftthangarmentsmadewithringspunyarns.Ottoman.Atightlywoven,horizontalraisedribtexturedknit.OuterLayer.Wornoverthebaseandmid-layers,thislayerresistswaterandwindandhascomfortablestretchformobility.
Overdyed.Aprocessinwhichyarn-dyedfabricsorpiece-dyedgarmentsareputthroughanadditionaldyecolortocreateuniquecolors.Oxford.Afine,lightweightwovencottonorcottonblendfabricwitha2x1basketweavevariation.Typicallyusedfordressshirts.PatchPocket.Apocketattachedtotheoutsideofagarment.Peached.Asofthandusuallyobtainedbybrushingorsandingthefabriclightly.Canbeachievedwithchemicalorlaundryabrasiontogivethesurfaceavelvet-likeappearanceandsoftness. PeakLapel.Traditionallythemostformalofblazerlapels,it’sdefinedbyedgespointingupwardstothewearer’sshoulders.PearlizedButtons.Buttonsthathaveapearl-coloredhue.PerfectBlend®(District).A50/50blendofringspuncombedcottonandpolywhichmakesPerfectBlendteesasgoodorbetterthanthefinestpurebred.PerfectTri®(District).50/25/25poly/ringspuncombedcotton/rayon.Theundeniablyperfectcombinationofexceptionalsoftnessandlaid-backstyle.PerfectWeight®Cotton(District).Thisextra-finegauge32singles100%ringspuncombedcottonyarnisknownforitslightweightsoftness.It’sthencompactedto4.3ouncesforlong-termdurabilityandshrinkresistance.Theresultisgarmentsthatlookandfeelperfectwearafterwear.PerformanceFabrics.Generally,100%polyesterfabricwithtechnologythatwicksmoisture,resistssnags,stainsorodors.It“performs”insomeway.PewterButtons.Buttonsthathaveadull,metallichue.Picot.Aseriesofsmallembroideredloopsforminganornamentaledgingonsomeribbonandlace.PewterandHornToneButtons.Buttonsthatincorporatepewterandhorntone.Usuallyoneencompassestheother.PieceDyed.Adyeingprocessthatoccurswhenthefabricisinyardageformafterithasbeenknittedorwoven,butbeforethegarmentisassembled.Pigment-Dyed.Atypeofdyeprocessusinggroundpigment.Thepigmentsareinsoluble,sotheyarelockedintothefabricwithasiliconwash.Theirregularabsorptionandsaturationofpigmentcreatesadistressedorwashedlook.Thismethodcoatstheoutsideofthematerialanddoesnotactuallydyeit.
Pilling.Atangledballoffibersthatappearsonthesurfaceofafabricasaresultofwearorcontinuedfrictionorrubbingonthesurfaceofthefabric.SeeAnti-PillFinish.PiqueKnit.Aknittingmethodthatcreatesafinetexturedsurfacethatappearssimilartoawaffleweave.Commonlyusedforpoloshirts.PitZips.Zippersplacedinthearmpitsofajackettobeusedforquickventilation.Placket.Thepartoftheshirtorjacketwherethegarmentfastensorbuttonstogether.Typesofplacketsinclude:reverse(generallyaladiesstylesinwhichthebuttonsareontheoppositesideofamen’sgarment),open(inwhichtherearenobuttonsorfasteners)anddecorative(non-functioning).PlatedKnitConstruction.Platingisaknittingtechniquethatusestwodifferentcolorsofyarn.Thereisamaincoloryarnandanalternativecoloryarn.Thetwoyarnsareknittedwiththealternativeyarnbehindthemaincoloryarn. Pleat.Aflatusuallynarrowfoldmadeinapieceofclothbypressingorsewingtwopartsoftheclothtogether.Ply.Twoormoreyarnsthathavebeentwistedtogether.Polyester.Astrong,durablesyntheticfabricwithhighstrengthandexcellentresiliency.Lowmoistureabsorbencyallowsthefabrictodryquickly.Poly-Filled.Awarmpolyesterliningfoundinthebodyorsleevesofouterwear.Polypropylene.Averylight,highlyresistant,thermoplasticresinusedtomakecoatings,packagingandfabrics.PolyurethaneCoating(PUCoating).Afinishcommonlyusedinwinterjackets,rainwearandwindweartoofferhighperformancewaterresistance,whilemaintainingthegarment’sbreathability.PonteKnit.Ponteknitshavetheforgivenessofaknit,buttheversatilityofawoven.They’reverystablewithanominalamountofstretchingcapability.PopcornPique.Alternatingrowsofbabypiqueknitandalargerpiqueknitthatresemblessmallcirclesknitcloselytogether.Poplin.Atightlywoven,durable,medium-weightcottonorcottonblendmadebyusingaribvariationoftheplainweavewhichcreatesaslightridgeeffect.
PortPocket™Access.Azipperentrypocketthatallowsthegarmenttobehoopedandembroideredwithoutimpactingtheinsideliningofthegarment.Posi-UV™Pro(Sport-Tek).High-performanceteesandpolosthatdeliveraUPFratingof50,includePosiChargecolor-lockingtechnologyandwickmoisture.PosiCharge®ElectricHeather(Sport-Tek).Withastrongall-oversingle-dyeheatherpattern,PosiChargeElectricHeatherFleeceisthefirsthigh-performancefleecetoincorporateSport-Tek’spopularbleed-resistant,color-lockingPosiChargetechnology.ThePosiChargeElectricHeatherpatternisalsoavailableint-shirtsandsoftshelljackets.PosiChargeMesh®.Water-solubledyeprocessthatbreaksapart,orionizes,inthedyeingsolutiontogiveoffapositivelychargedcoloredion.Thecationicionsdyethepolyesterfibersbylinkingwiththeacidgroupsonthefibers-lockinginthecolor.Thisresultsinabetter,bleed-resistant,colorfastness.PosiCharge®RacerMesh®(Sport-Tek).Ultra-fine100%polyesterflatbackmeshthatoffersunparalleledbreathability.PosiChargetechnologylocksincolorandkeepslogoscrisp.Pre-Shrunk.Fabricsorgarmentsthathavereceivedapre-shrinkingtreatment.PrincessSeams.Short,stitchedfoldsthattapertoapoint,typicallyusedtoshapewomen’sgarments.PrintPro®XPProcess(Hanes®).AfleeceknittingprocessdevelopedbyHanesthatcreatesatighterknitforabetterprintingsurface.Prism(BELLA+CANVAS).99/1Airlumecombedandringspuncotton/poly,32singles.Aheathercreatedwithadarkerpolyesterthread,thedimensionisundeniableandbringsauniquecoloring,almostavintageorgarment-dyedlooktothefabric.PVC.Apolyurethanecoatingthatisaddedtomakegarmentswaterresistant.Quilting.Afabricconstructioninwhichalayerofdownorfiberfillisplacedbetweentwolayersoffabric,andthenheldinplacebystitchingorsealinginaconsistent,all-overpattern.RaglanSleeves.Anathleticcutsleevesetwithadiagonalseamfromthenecktotheunderarm.Offersmorefreedomofmovementincomparisonwithset-insleeves.
RainDefender®(Carhartt).Carhartt’sdurablewaterrepellentusedinouterwear.RapidDry™Technology.Designedwithauniqueweavetowickawaymoisturefromthebody.Rayon.Amanufacturedfibercomposedofregeneratedcellulose,derivedfromwoodpulp,cottonlintersorothervegetablematter,withasofthand.Frequentlyusedforshirtsandpants.Rental-Friendly.Industrial-strengthfabricsdesignedtowithstandtherigorsofapparelrentalprograms.Repreve®Polyester(Allmade).The50%polyesterfromrecycledplasticwaterbottlesinAllmadeTri-BlendTees.Eachstyleusesanequivalentofupto6recycledplasticwaterbottles.Re-Fleece™(District).Thesesustainablestylesbreathenewlifeintoreclaimedmaterialswith100%recycledfabric.Affordable,comfortableandneverre-dyed,it’safleecethatjustfeelsgood.(Re)Purpose™DelDiaCollection(Cotopaxi). Allproductsinthe(Re)PurposeCollectionuserepurposedfabric—durable,high-qualityfabricleftoverfromothercompanies’productionruns.Re-Tee™(District).TheaffordableRe-Teeis100%recycledfabricandneverre-dyed,madefromreclaimedmaterialthatotherwisecouldendupinalandfill.Soft.Comfy.High-quality.Doinggoodfortheplanetfeelsasgoodontheinsideasitdoesontheoutside.ReverseCoilZipper.Unlikethebasiccoilzipper,areversecoilzipperdoesn'tshowitsteethfromthefront.ReversePlacket.Whenthebuttonsonaplacketareontheoppositesidefromamen’sgarment.Commonlydoneonwomen’sstyles.ReverseWeave®(Champion).Referstothecross-cutgraindirectioninmostofChampion’sfleecestyles.Byconstructinggarmentswiththegrainofthefabricrunninghorizontally,itreducesshrinkageinthelengthofthegarment,creatingaconsistentfitoverthelifeofthegarment.ReverseWeavewaspatentedin1952.RibKnit.Atexturedknitthathastheappearanceofverticallines.Itishighlyelasticandretainsitsshape.Commonlyusedforsleeveandneckbands.RingSpun.Yarnmadebycontinuouslytwistingandthinningaropeofcottonfibers.Thetwistingmakestheshorthairsofcottonstandout,resultinginastrongeryarnwithasignificantlysofterhand.
Rip-StopNylon.Alightweight,windandwaterresistantplainweavefabricwithlargeribyarnsthatstoptearswithoutaddingexcessweight.Oftenusedinactivewear.Ruching.AFrenchtermwhichmeanstogather,ruffleorpleatthefabric.RuggedFlex®(Carhartt).Carhartt’stechnologyforeaseofmovementintheirgarments.RuggedProfessional™(Carhartt).Carhartt’sseriesofapparelandaccessoriesengineeredforpeoplewhoneedgearthatresistswrinkles,repelsstainsandkeepsitsappearancewhileretainingitscolorwash-after-wash.RunningStitch.Astitchthatisspacedequally,withtheundersidestitchingbeinghalfthelengthoftheexternalside.R-Tek®Fleece.Anexclusivelightweightmicrofleecewithasoft,plushhandandananti-pillfinishtoresistpilling.100%polyester.
S-USandwashed.Aprocessinwhichthefabriciswashedwithveryfinelavarocksorrubber/siliconballs,resultinginasofterfabricwitharelaxedlookandreducedshrinkage.SatinJersey(Alternative).Thisfabrichasthedrapeandstretchofjerseyplusaluxurioussatinwashthatsetsitapartfromothersoftcottonandmakesitnoticeablysmoothandsleek.ScoopNeck.Characterizedbyadeep,roundednecklinethatissignificantlydeeperthannormalnecklines.Typicallyfoundonwomen’sshirts.SculptedHem.Ahemthatissoftlyroundedforfashiondetailandun-tuckedwear.SeamSealing.Theprocessoftreatingthestitchholesandseamsofagarmenttopreventleakingandtoensurefullwaterproofintegrity.Self-FabricCollar.Acollarthatisconstructedfromthesamematerialasthebodyofthegarment.Self-FabricSweatband.Referstoapaneloffabricatthefrontofacapthatisconstructedfromthesamefabricasthecrownofthecap.Serge.Anovercastingtechniquedoneonthecutedgeofthefabrictopreventunraveling.SeriesPerformance(NewEra).100%polyesterjerseywithmoisture-wickingandodor-fightingperformance.Set-InSleeves.Mostcommonstyleofsleeve,whichissewnintotheshoulderseam.SherpaFleece.Aknitterryfabricthathasbeenbrushedandwashedtoraisethefibersforafluffy,plushfeel.Thethickterryloopsstaysoftandabsorbentovertime.Side-SeamedTee.Sideseamconstructionistheoriginal,classicconstructiontechniqueoft-shirtproduction.Theteeisconstructedwithtwolargepanels,forfrontandbacksections.Thesepanelsarestitchedtogether(formingsideseams)toultimatelyformthetorsocovering.Sleevesandcollarsarethenattachedtofinishtheshirt.SideVents.Slitsfoundatthebottomofsideseams,usedforfashiondetailing,aswellascomfortandeaseofmovement.
SilkTouch™.Oursilkysoft65/35poly/cottonpiqueblendpolothatisdurable,wrinkleresistantandshrinkresistant.SilkTouch™Performance.Ourhigh-performance100%polyesterdoubleknitpolothatresistssnags,wicksmoistureandlocksincolorthankstoPosiCharge®technology.Singles.Atermusedtoindicatethediameterofayarn.Thesmallerthenumber,thethickertheyarn.SlashPockets.Apocketinagarmenttowhichaccessisprovidedbyaverticalordiagonalslitintheoutsideofthegarment.SoftShell.Afabricationthatbondsanoutershelltoawarmfleeceorknitlayerresultinginabreathable,flexibleandcomfortablejacket.Alloursoftshellshavelaminateforwaterresistance.SoftSpunCotton.Softspunisanopen-endyarnwithmoretwistandasofterexteriortotheyarn.Theprocessgenerallyhelpslowertorqueandimprovehandfeelofthefinishedfabric.StainRelease.Afabrictreatmentthathelpsagarmentreleasestainsinthewash.StainResist.Afabrictreatmentthathelpsspillsandstainseasilyrolloffthegarment.Spandex.Amanufacturedelastometricfiberthatcanberepeatedlystretchedover500%withoutbreakingandwillstillrecovertoitsoriginallength.SphereDry(NIKE).Apatentedfabricwitharaisedbumpysurfacethatlinestheinsideoftheshirt,whichnotonlycreatesanappealingathletic-inspiredtexture,butalsoworkslikeafunneltodrawperspirationfromtheinsideout.Thefabric'sthree-dimensionalconstructionalsocreatesairspacearoundthebodytoreducecling.Sport-Wick®Fleece.Ananti-staticfleecethatprovidesmoisturewickingbyreleasingmoisturefromtheinnerlayers.Stonewashed.Aprocessinwhichthefabricorgarmentisheavilywashedwithlavarocksorrubber/siliconballs,resultinginasofterfabricwithadistressed,weatheredlookandreducedshrinkage.StormDefender®(Carhartt).Carhartt’swaterproof,breathablemembraneusedinouterwear.
StormFlap.Apieceoffabricthatcoversandprotectsanopening,usuallyazipper,onanitemofclothing.Itisdesignedtoaddanotherbarrieronmorevulnerablepartsoftheclothingtoprotectagainstwindandmoisture.StormRepel®(EddieBauer).Adurablewater-repellent(DWR)finishthatshedsmoisturesoitdoesn’tsoakin.Structured.Aheadweartermreferringtoabuckramliningusedtocontroltheslopeofthecap.Sublimation.Atypeofprintingthatusessublimationink,heatandpressuretotransferanimageontopolyesterfabric.Sueded.Aprocessinwhichfabricgoesthroughabrushingprocesstoraisethenapandgivethegarmentasofthand.SuededCottonBlend(NewEra).Aretro-inspiredblendof60/40suededringspuncotton/polythathasamazingsoftnessandalofthandfeel.SuperHeavyweightFleece.A12-ouncecross-grainheavyweightfleece.80%ringspuncombedcotton.20%polyester.SuperPro™(PortAuthority/CornerStone).Hardworkingwovenshirtsthatrepelandreleasestainswhileresistingwrinkles.SuperSlub®(District).Auniquethick-n-thinslubyarnthatminglessuperstylewithsupervalue.TapedSeams.Astripoffabricsewntotheseamofagarmenttopreventdistortion.Inouterwear,tapedseamsaidinwaterproofing.Taslan.Adurableandwaterrepellentnylonfabricwithaslightlyshinysurface,usedmainlyinouterweargarments.Teklon.Arugged,strongerTaslannylonthatiswaterrepellent.Tencel™Modal(Allmade).The25%bio-basedfibersourcedfromrenewablebeechtreesinAllmadeTri-BlendTees.Terra-Tek™Nylon.Durableandwaterrepellentwithamattefinish.TerryVelour.Apileweavecottonfabricwithanuncutpileononesideandacutpileonthereverseside.Ithasasoft,plushfeelandiswaterabsorbent.Commonlyusedfortowels,robesandapparel.
ThermoBall®(TheNorthFace).TheNorthFace®developedapartnershipwithPrimaLoft®toofferasyntheticalternativetodown.ThermoBall®isarevolutionininsulationtechnology.Unliketraditional,continuous-filamentsyntheticinsulations,thesmallroundPrimaLoft®syntheticfiberclusterscloselymimicdownclusters;trappingheatwithinsmallairpocketstoretainwarmth.IndependenttestinghasshownthatThermoBall®technologycanofferthelowweight,loft,warmthandcompressibilityofdownwiththewet-weatherinsulatingperformanceofsynthetics.ThermoBall®hasthewarmthequivalentof600filldown.
ThermoBall®ECO(TheNorthFace).Madewithpost-consumerrecycledcontent,ThermoBall®ECOispoweredbyPrimaLoft®.Therma-FIT(NIKE).NikeTherma-FITisadouble-brushedmicrofiberfleecethatretainsenergyandresistsheatloss.NikeTherma-FITprovidesmaximuminsulationfromcoldandwindwithminimalweightandbulk.Itisidealforanycoldweatheractivitiesthatrequireinsulation.Thumbholes.Openingsatthecuffssotheycoverthebackofthehandsandthepalmsforwarmthandenhancedfit.Tie-Dye.Amethodofproducingpatternsbytyingpartsofthefabrictoshielditfromthedye.Triblend(BELLA+CANVAS).50/25/25poly/Airlumecombedandringspuncotton/rayon,40singles.Yougetthecomfortfromthecotton,durabilityfromthepolyesterandtheluxuriousdrapefromtherayon.Tri-BlendPerformance(NewEra).A50/38/12poly/ringspuncombedcotton/rayonblendthatwicksmoistureandhasunbeatablesoftness.Tricot.Aknitfabricofvariousnaturalorsyntheticfiberslikewool,silk,nylonorpolyesterhavingfineverticalribsonthefaceandhorizontalribsontheback.TricotLining.Averylightweightnylonliningoftenusedinshorts.Triple-NeedleStitched.Afinishcommonlyusedonasleeveorbottomhemthatusesthreeneedlestocreateparallelrowsofvisiblestitching,givingthegarmentacleaner,morefinishedlook,aswellasaddingdurability.TubularCollar.Acollarknitinatubeform,soithasnoseams.Tuck-InTails.Ashirtconstructedsothebackhemislongerthanthefront.Thisaidsinkeepingtheshirttucked-induringnormalactivities.
TuckStitch.Referstothelookoftheknitwheresomestitchesareactuallyundertheotherstitches.Givestheshirtawaffleweavetextureandlook.TulipHem.Twooverlappingpiecesoffabricatthehemofagarmentwhichcreatesthelookofatulippetal. Twill.Afabriccharacterizedbymicrodiagonalribsproducingasoft,smoothfinish.Commonlyusedforcasualwovenshirts.TwillTape.Attachedtotheinsideoftheplacketforafashioneffect.TwoPly.Ayarninwhichitsthicknessismadeupoftwolayersorstrands,addingdurabilityandweight.UnderarmGrommets.Smallholesinthearmpitareatoallowbreathabilityandaircirculation.Unstructured.Aheadweartermreferringtoalowprofilecapwithanaturallylowslopingcrown.Nobuckramhasbeenaddedtothecrownforstructure.UV-ProtectiveFabric(UPF).Atermusedtorefertoafabricthatresiststheabilityofultravioletraystopenetratethefabric.Protectsthefabricfromfadingandthewearer’sskinfromUVrays.
V-ZVPatch.AsectionofmaterialinaVshapethatissewnontoagarmentdirectlyunderthecollar,providingsupportagainststretchingtheneckopening.Alsoastyledetail.Vents.Anopeninginagarmentwhichassistsbreathabilityandcanaidineaseofdecoration,allowingthegarmenttobehoopedandembroideredwithnovisibilityontheinsideliningofthegarment.Someventsaretackeddownandareforfashionpurposesonly.VintageSlub(BELLA+CANVAS).50/37.5/12.5poly/Airlumecombedandringspuncotton/rayon,32singles.It’sknitinacertainwaytogiveareallytonaltexture.Sincethisfabricboastsanunevensurfaceandslightlysheerappearance,itcreatesreallycoolprinteddesignsthatgiveoffthatwornandvintage-vibe.Vintage50/50(Alternative).Alternative’s50/50fabricationfeelsunlikeanyyou'veeverwornbefore.Softandlooselyknitforaperfectlyworn-infit,ithasavintage-softfeelthatgetsbetterwitheverywear. WaffleKnit.Asquarepatternknitintoagarment.WaffleWeave.Asquarepatternwovenintoagarment.WashedDuck(Carhartt).Thisfabricfeelsexactlylikeitsounds—Carhartttooktheirdurable,classicduckandwasheditforabroken-inlookandfeel.Itbreaksinfasterthanduck,andlooksnewer,longer.Waterproof.Keepsoutsidemoisturefrompenetratingthefabric.Thewaterproofratingistypicallyexpressedinmilliliters(1,000mmto10,000mm)basedonwaterpressuretoleranceovera24-hourperiod.Generally,thehighertherating,thehigherthewaterproofprotection.WaterRepellant.Afabric’sabilitytocausemoisturetobeadupandrolloffagarment.WaterResistant.Keepsthewearerdryinmoderatewindandrain.Verybreathable,allowingairtopassthroughwhilekeepingmoistureatbay.Inextremeorextendedconditions,waterproofingisabettersolution.WeatherEdge®(EddieBauer).Reliable,breathablewaterproofprotectionthatisidealforgeneralusesandmoderateactivity.WeatherEdge®Pluslaminateoffersseriousweatherprotectionforthosewhodemandhighperformanceinawiderangeofactivities.
WeatheredTwill.Aspecialdyeprocessresultinginasofterfabricwithaweatheredappearance.WeldedPockets.Thetechniquebywhichseamsareaffixedtooneanotherwithoutstitching.WeltCollar/Cuffs.Asingleplyfabricwithafinishededgethatisusedforcollarsandcuffsonsportshirtsandshortsleevegarments.Alsoknownasflatknit.WindFighter®(Carhartt).Carhartt’stechnologythattameswind.Usedinouterwear.WindWall®(TheNorthFace).WindWallfabricsgreatlyreducetheeffectsofwindchillwhileprovidingflexibilityandbreathabilitytostaycomfortablewithoutoverheating.WindShirt.Atypicallywaterandwindresistantouterwearpiece.Popularforgolfers.WindResistant.Theabilityofafabrictoactagainstoropposethepenetrationofwindorair,withoutbeingcompletelywindproof.Wickability.Theabilityofafiberorafabrictodispersemoistureandallowittopassthroughtothesurface,sothatevaporationcantakeplace.Wicking.Dispersingorspreadingofmoistureorliquidthroughagivenareabycapillaryactioninafabric.Women’sFitted(District).Afitthathugsthebodyatthebust,waist,hipandsleeve.FoundintheVeryImportantTee,PerfectTri,andTheConcertTee.Sizeupforalessfittedlook.WoodToneButtons.Buttonsthatsimulateawoodappearance.Wool.Usuallyassociatedwithfiberorfabricmadefromthefleeceofsheeporlamb.Thetermwoolcanalsobeappliedtoallanimalhairfibers,includingthehairoftheCashmereorAngoragoatorthespecialtyhairfibersofthecamel,alpaca,llamaorvicuna.Woven.Fabricconstructedbytheinterlacingoftwoormoresetsofyarnsatrightanglestoeachother.Wovenfabricsarecommonlyusedfordressshirtsandcampshirts.YarnDyed.Atermusedwhenyarnisdyedpriortotheweavingorknittingofthegarment.
Yoke.Apartofthegarmentfittedcloselytotheshoulders.Typicallyseenonthebackasonadressshirt,butmayalsobeonthefront,asonaWesternstyleshirt.Yupoong.CompanythatengineeredtheoriginalFlexfit®hat.ZipperGarage.Afoldofsoftfabricaroundtheendofthezipperthathelpspreventascratchedorirritatedchin.Alsoknownasachinguard.
