PHOTOPROTECTIONPHOTOPROTECTIONBasicsBasics

Harald Maier, M.D.Harald Maier, M.D.Professor of Professor of DermatologyDermatology

Div. Special and Div. Special and EnvironmentalEnvironmental DermatologyDermatologyDeptDept. . DermatologyDermatology

MedicalMedical University of University of ViennaVienna

COST 726 Training School October 6th, - 10th, 2008, Vienna

WARUM UV – SCHUTZ ?Sonnenverhalten – Gestern & Heute

Frankreich um 1890Florida 1990

Osttirol 1920 Zillertal 2001

ViennaVienna TanningTanning Salon Salon SurveySurveyHistoricalHistorical PerspectivesPerspectives of of IntendedIntended TanningTanning (1)(1)

1855 worldwide 1st „Sonnenbadeanstalt“ by Arnold Rikkli (1823-1906) in Veldes1896 Finsen-lamp by Niels Ryberg Finsen (1860-1904)1904 „Quartzglass-mercury-lamp“ by Dr.Küch / Haereus-Hanau („Hanauer Höhensonne)WW I acceleration of reconvalescence of soldiers w.i.a. by artificial UVR1920-30ies tan as part of a politically motivated „Körperkult“ in Germany1930ies Coco Chanel (Paris) returns with a „shocking tan“ from a vaccation1940ies Helena Rubinstein (NY) introduces artificial tanning in her „Five-Days-Wonder-School“Since 1950ies tanned skin inevitable for advertising in modern and post-modern Western World societies

Tavenrath 2000

ViennaVienna TanningTanning Salon Salon SurveySurveyHistoricalHistorical PerspectivesPerspectives (2)(2)

Death Sea solarium, 2000 EC 2008 Beauty salon Paris 1930ies

Künstliche Höhensonne, Hanau 1911Luftbad 1900Luftbad 1900

Light chamberby Dr. Kellog, Michigan around1900

I´m a tanning freakand feel pretty well in my skin !

„KROCHER“Adolescent sub-culturePhysical fitnessSpecial outfit„Addicted“ to tanning salons / self-tanning lotions, beautyspots („melanoma“)Special language

Representative annual minimal erythemal doses (MEDs) for various exposure scenarios in northern Europeans

(Diffey, 1987, 1993)

Scenario Annual MEDsOutdoor worker 270

Indoor worker (including weekend exposure) 90

Sunbathing holiday in Mediterranean area for 2 week period in summer

50 - 100

UVA sunbed (low pressure fluorescent lamps, 30X30 minute sessions*)

20

*Recommended maximum number of sessions per year (IRPA/INIRC, 1991) with estimated exposure of 0.7 MED per session(Diffey, 1987)

SONNENSCHUTZ BEI BERUFLICHER UV-EXPOSITIONUVUV--Risikoprofil bei WerktRisikoprofil bei Werktäätigentigen

Innenarbeiter – passive Freizeitgestaltung

Außenarbeiter – passiv Freizeitgestaltung

Innenarbeiter – aktive Freizeitgestaltung

Außenarbeiter – aktive Freizeitgestaltung

Knuschke et al. 2007

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety Parameter

PHOTOPROTECTION –

HIGH - NEED

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety Parameter

(Outdoor) work

Outdoor leisure activities

Children

PHOTOPROTECTION – EVERYDAY SITUATIONS

INTRINSISCHE PHOTOPROTEKTION„Lichtschwiele“

PigmentierungIPD UVADPD UVADPD UVB

Antioxidant DefenseEnzyme (z.B, SOD, Katalase, Peroxidase)MetalloproteineStress-ProteineTocopherol, Ascorbinsre., Glutathion, Bilirubin

EnzymatischeDNA-Reparatur-mechanismen

Abb. 3-1. aus: Harber & Bickers. Photosensitivity diseases. Principles of diagnosis and treatment, 1981

EXTRINSISCHE PHOTOPROTEKTIONPrinzipien

1 - UV-Vermeidung (UV-Verhalten, Schatten, Kleidung, Hut, Sonnenbrille)

2 - Sonnenschutzmittel i. e.S.

3 - Antioxidantien

4 - Reparaturenzyme („Enhanced photorepair“)

12

3

4

Abb. 3-1. aus: Harber & Bickers. Photosensitivity diseases. Principles of diagnosis and treatment, 1981

PRINCIPLES OF EXTRINSIC PHOTOPROTECTION

• UVR avoidance

• Antioxidant defence

• Enhanced photorepair

……and now a minutebreeze of butyl methoxy-

dibenzoylmethane……

…a sunscreen…….indeed,…a workof art……..

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterTopical Sunscreens – Principle Composition

UV-FILTERS

Chemical filters

Physical filters

VEHICLE

Water : Oil

PARA-SUBSTANCES

Stabilizers

Emulsifiers

Antioxidants

Perfumes

etc.

PHOTOPROTEKTIONSonnenschutzmittel im engeren

Sinne = topischer Sonnenschutz

organic filter inorganic filter

Stoffgruppe EU-Nr.

Stoff INCI Handelsname Absorptionsspektrum Max Abs Höchstmenge (g/100g Vehikel)

Medium i d Filter instabil ist

Ext.Koeff.

A1 4-Aminobenzoesäure PABA UVB250-320

288 5

B5 2-Ethylhexyl-4-dimethylaminobenzoat(4-Dimethylaminobenzo-2-ethylhexylester) Padimate-O

Octyl Dimethyl PABA EscalolEusolex

UVB 8 polar

B2 Ethoxylierter 4-Aminobenzoesäureethylester Ethyl PABA UVB 10

B25 3-(4´-Methyl-benzyliden) D,L-campher 3-(4´Methylbenzyliden)DL-Camphor

Eusolex 6300 UVB280-315

300 6

B26 3-Benzyliden-bornan-2-on (3-Benzyliden-D,L-campher 3-Benzyliden Camphor Ultren 9K UVB 6

A7 3,3´-(1-4-Phenylenmethylen)bis-(7,7´-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2,2,1]heptan-1-methansulfonsäure und Salze

Terephthalylidene DicamphorSulfonic Acid

Mexoryl SX UVA 10

A9 Alpha-(2-0xoborn-3-yliden)-toluen-4-sulfonsäure und Salze

Benzyliden Camphor SulfonicAcid

UVB 6

B13 Ethylhexyl-4-methoxy-cinnamat (4-Methoxy-zimtsäure-2-ethyl-hexylester)

Octyl Methoxycinnamat Parsol MCXNeoHelipan AV

UVB290-320

307-310 10 polar

B12 4-Methoxy-zimtsäure-iso-amylester (Mischung von Isomeren)

Isoamyl-p-Methoxycinnamat Neo-HeliopanE1000

UVB 10

A4 Oxybenzon (2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenon Benzophenon-3 Eusolex 4360Escalol 567Uvinul M 40

UVAB270-350

287-290 10 apolar

B17 2-Hydroxy-4-Methoxy-benzophenon-5-sulfonsäure und Na-Salz(Sulsibenzon)

Benzophenon-/Benzophenon -5 UVB apolar

A3 3,3,5-Trimethyl-cyclohexyl-2-salizylsäureester Homosalate UVB295-315

306 10

B29 4-Isopropylbenzyl-salicylyt Isipropylbenzyl Siliylate UVB 4

B6 Salizylsäure-2-ethylhexylester Octylsalicylate UVB280-320

300 5

A11 N- {(2 und3)-(2-Oxoborn-3 yliden)-methyl]benzyl}acrylamid-Polymer

- Mexoryl SW UVB 6

A6 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure(Salze) Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonsäure Eusolex 232Novantisol

UVB290-320

302 8

B32 2,4,6-Trianilin-p-(carbo-2´-ethyl-hexyl-1´-oxi)-1,3,5-triazin

Octyl Triazone Uvinul T150 UVB 5

A8 1-(4-tert-Butylphenyl)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)propan-1-3-dion (Avobenzone)

Butyl Methoxyfibenzoylmethane Parsol 1789Eusolex 920

UVA 5

A2 N,N,N-Trimethyl-4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-anilinium-methylsulfat

Camphor BenzalkoniumMethosulfate

UVB 6

A10 2-Cyano-3,3´-diphenyl-2-acrylsäure,2-Ethylhexylester Octocrylene Uvinul N539 UVAB 10

Andere

Salizylate

Benzophenone

Zimtsäure Derivate

CampherDerivate

PABA/Derivate

TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZUV -Filter

TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZWas kann mit Organischen Filtern („Absorber“) so alles passieren?

1 - Photofragmentation

2 - Photoisomerisation

3 - Direkte Reaktion

4 - Energietransfer

Nach Martincigh, Allen & Allen.In: Gasparro Springer Vlg. 1999

TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZPhysikalische UV-Filter

• Mikronisiertes ZnO• Mikronisiertes TiO2

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterSunscreens – Basic Requirements

• EFFECTIVE

• SAFE

• COSMETICALLY ACCEPTABLE

• REASONABLE PRICE

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterSunscreen Effectivity & Savety in

Photobiologic Terms

• BROAD SPECTRUM PROTECTION

(UVB & UVA)

• HIGH PROTECTION FACTOR

(UVB:UVA-BALANCE)

• PHOTOSTABILITY

UV-SCHUTZ IST WICHTIG !

320156 (gelb)320350 (weiß)

POLYPODIUM LEUCOTOMOS

• Genus POLYPODICEAE • Polygrammoid ferns• Rainforest Honduras• Calagualine• „Metabolic effects of

calagualine, an antitumoralsaponine of P. leucotomos.“

Horvath A et al. Nature 1967

TOPISCHER SONNENSCHUTZAktuelle Anwendungspraxis

Sonnenschutzmittel werden bereitwilligangewendetSonnenschutzmittel verleiten zum SonnenbadenSonnenschutzmittel als „Goldstandard“angesehenSonnenschutzmittel werden zu dünnaufgetragenEs werden nicht alle Areale bedeckt Die internationalen Empfehlungen über UV protektive Maßnahmen enthalten keinen Hinweis auf photoprotektive Lippenstifte Nur 61% der Anwender tragen Sonnenschutzmittel mehrmalsauf

Sunprotection starts in yourhead!

• Correct ranking of UVR protectivemeasures

• Reasonable sun-behaviour and correctself-assessment

• Sunscreens not first-linephotoprotective measures

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterPhotoprotection as a Comprehensive

Strategy• Behavior• Self-assessment of UV-sensitivity• Shadow• Textile sunprotection• Sunglasses• Topical sunscreens• (Systemic photoprotection)

Photostability – A Novel Key Safety ParameterCases for (Topical) Sunscreens

• Outdoor occupational activities

• Outdoor leisure activities

• Skin areas which cannot be protected by

other photoprotective measurements

SONNENSCHUTZ BEI BERUFLICHER UV-EXPOSITIONCorrectCorrect useuse of of topicaltopical sunscreenssunscreens

Sunscreens not first-line photoprotection, butadditionally to other measuresAll areas which are regularely sun exposed(face, hands)Right choiceCorrect useEven application in recommended areathicknessDon´t forget lips, ears, neck!Regular reapplicationStart with sunscreen with higher SPF

Tanned is beautiful !

30 years after...

Is tanned (still) beautiful?

Thankyou for

yourattention !