Post on 08-Jul-2020
transcript
PLAN YOUR TRIP
Welcome to the Netherlands ............ 2Map .................................. 410 Top Experiences ........ 6Need to Know ................. 12What’s New ..................... 14If You Like ........................ 15Month by Month ............. 18Itineraries ........................ 21Cycling in the Netherlands .................. 24Travel with Children ....... 32Regions at a Glance ....... 35
YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT
Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions to help you put together your perfect trip
UNDERSTAND THE NETHERLANDS
The Netherlands Today ... 252History ............................. 254The Dutch Way of Life .... 265Dutch Art ......................... 270Architecture .................... 277The Dutch Landscape ... 282Dutch Cuisine ................. 287
The Netherlands Today Among the qualities the Netherlands is best known is its famous tol-erance. However this idea of ‘You don’t bother me and I won’t botheryou’ seemed under threat recently. Instead of a broad coalition govern-ment based near the centre of the political spectrum, the Dutch in 2010shifted right. The coalition government formed that year included GeertWilders, leader of the Party for Freedom, a far-right movement with a tough stance on foreigners living in – or immigrating – to the Nether-lands.
During the next two years the government under prime minister Mark Rutte made a number of proposals that were a sharp break from previous Dutch policies. They weakened environmental regulations, slashedarts and culture funding and even passed what was thought to e a neardeath sentence for the country’s coffeeshops (where pot is sold legally).The former y e rock Dutch commitment to the Euro ean Union was
t
Factsation: 16.7
41,526
n tulip 0 sq km
21-netherlands-today-net5.indd 252 24/01/2013 2:13:19 PM
History While the Netherlands seems like a rather placid place now, you’d neguess the high drama of its history. It’s like going into a cinema an hafter the last show: other than a few popcorn boxes laying on the flothere’s little evidence of the spectacles that played out just recently.
Greed, lust and war are prominent in the Dutch story, with doseaction that include pirates and high seas adventure. It’s the story of lamuch invaded, whether by armies on land or water from the sea. Athighs it has produced astonishing art matched only by wretched exce
Yet through it all, a society has emerged that has a core belief in man rights, tolerance and perhaps most surprising given the vicissituof its existence, consensus.
Invaders The first invaders to take note of the locals in today’s Netherlands wthe Romans, who, under Julius Caesar, conquered a wide region alothe Rijn Rhine) and its tributaries by 59 BC. Celtic and Germanic trii iti ll b d t C ’ l d Ut ht b i t
22-history-net5.indd 254 24/01/2013 2:14:15 PM
Art & Icons In the world of art the Netherlands has given us Rembrandt and Van Gogh. Sure, there’s also Frans Hals, Hieronymus Bosch and Piet Mondrian – but when you’ve got the rst two, why mention the rest? (OK that Vermeer guy, he’s big…). Then there are icons: classic windmills, the ultimate green machines that are back in vogue a century after the Dutch used these twirl-ing beasties to pump the country dry. Clogs? Renewable. A ordable. Floatable (if the dykes break). Tulips? The Dutch have made a fortune from little bulbs that go in the ground, then burst forth with beauty that is universally loved.
Big in Size & Spirit The Dutch themselves seem oversized (ac-tually they are statistically the tallest na-tionality on the planet.) Gregariousness, thrift, good sense and wry humour are all national traits, as is no-holds-barred honesty. This is not the country for the neurotic to ask: ‘Do you think I look fat in this?’ (Not that this can be much of a worry in the best place to ride a bike on the planet.)
Essential Amsterdam For Amsterdam – the entire city is also a Dutch icon – current upheavals will merely create more ripples in a city used to waves of change. Misunderstood by
Welcome to the Netherlands
01-welcome-to-net5.indd 2 1/02/2013 10:11:53 AM
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
PAGE
2
PAGE
251GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP
Learn about the big picture, so youcan make sense of what you see
Need to Know
Currency » Euro (€)
Language » Dutch and English
High Season (Jun-Aug)
» Everything is open. » The odds of balmy
weather to enjoy a cafe or a countryside bike ride are best – but not assured.
» Crowds fill the famous museums.
» Prices peak, book ahead.
Shoulder Season (Apr & May, Sep & Oct)
» Most sights open. » Few crowds. » Prices moderate,
only book popular places in Amsterdam
» Weather mixes the good with wet and cold. Bring warm clothes for outdoors.
Low Season (Nov-Mar)
» Many sights outside of major cities closed.
» It may just be you and a masterpiece at a famous museum.
» Weather cold and or wet, biking is only for the hardy.
» Deals abound.
When to Go
#
#
#
#
#
RotterdamGO Mar–Nov
DeventerGO Apr–Oct
MaastrichtGO Year-round
TexelGO Apr–Oct
AmsterdamGO Year-round
Warm to hot summers, mild wintersWarm to hot summers, cold winters
Your Daily Budget Budget less than
€100 » Dorm bed €22-€35,
private room under €60
» Supermarkets and lunchtime specials for food €15
» Free outdoor exploration
Midrange
€100–€200
» Double room €100 » Good dinner in
casual restaurant €30 » Museums and trains
€20
Top end more than
€200 » Luxurious hotel
double room €160 » Dinner in top
restaurant with drinks €60
» First-class trains, guided tours €40
12
04-need-to-know-net5.indd 12 24/01/2013 2:10:17 PM
For this new edition ofNetherlands, our authhunted down the freshtransformed, the hot ahappening. These are our favourites. For upminute recommendatilonelyplanet.com/neth
Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
1 After a 10- year renovation, the na-tion’s premier art trove reopened in its
entirety in 2013, splashing Rembrandts, Vermeers and 7500 other masterpieces over 1.5km of galleries. See p 65 .
Stedelijk Museum, Amsterdam
2 Amsterdam’s modern art museum nally popped the top on ‘the Bath-
tub’, its new wing that nearly doubles the space for Monets, Mondrians, glassworks, posters and textiles. See p 66 .
EYE Film Institute, Amsterdam
3 It’s ready for its closeup: the Neth-
Museum Broeker VeilinLangedijk
7 A great example of theand idiosyncratic mus
land: new multimedia displife a region of 15,000 vegewere farmed by boat. See p
Oudeschild, Texel
8 This shing port is a gget a boat tour, visit th
museum or feast on smokegetting a real centre on theSee p 129 .
Fyra
What’s New
05-whats-new-net5.indd 14 8/02/2013 12:32:47 PM
I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -895 -1
9 781741 798951
99525
STAY IN TOUCH lonelyplanet.com/contact
AUSTRALIA Locked Bag 1, Footscray, Victoria 3011%03 8379 8000, fax 03 8379 8111
USA 150 Linden Street, Oakland, CA 94607%510 250 6400, toll free 800 275 8555, fax 510 893 8572
UK Media Centre, 201 Wood Lane, London W12 7TQ%020 8433 1333, fax 020 8702 0112
Paper in this book is certified against the Forest Stewardship Council™ standards. FSC™ promotes environmentally responsible, socially beneficial and economically viable management of the world’s forests.
twitter.com/lonelyplanet
facebook.com/lonelyplanet
lonelyplanet.com/newsletter
Go further with Lonely Planet
lonelyplanet.com/destinations
Book your travelsFind a fl ightFind the right fl ight through our online booking service.
Reserve a roomVisit the Lonely Planet website to book author-reviewed and recommended accommodation for any price range.
Book activitiesDiscover and book amazing experiences online for destinations around the globe.
1
lonelyplanet.com/apps
Download our appsOur travel apps give you offl ine maps and GPS tracking so you can navigate without roaming charges. Download the free Lonely Planet Travel Guides app to get started.
AMSTERDAM FREE TRAVEL APP
2
Check out our full range of guidesTravelling somewhere else? Staying longer in a particular place? Check out our full range of guides, written and researched by expert authors to give you an amazing travel experience.
4
POCKETPerfect for
a quick visit.
e you an amazing t
POCKETDISCOVER Full-colour images and top itineraries.
ying longer in a particulaexpert authors to givegive
DISCOVER F ll l i
EBOOKSThe same great content with added interactivity.
CITY & COUNTRYThe freedom you need to
plan the perfect trip.
Travelling somewheguides, writ
CITYTh f
ere else? Stayresearched b
yinby
NTRYd d t
somewhetten and
Y & CCCOOOUNd
shop.lonelyplanet.com shop.lonelyplanet.com/ebooks
Get inspired to travelThe award-winning Lonely Planet Traveller is the most exciting magazine for people who want to see more of the world. Go online to fi nd out more and see the latest subscription off er.
5
lonelyplanet.com/magazine
Talk to locals With just a few words in the local language you can make a real connection when you travel. Our superb range of phrasebooks and language apps is guaranteed to get you talking, no matter where you’re going.
3lonelypplanet.com/apelyp
shop.lonelyplanet.com/phrasebooks
netherlands-5-cover.indd 2netherlands-5-cover.indd 2 8/02/2013 12:41:11 PM8/02/2013 12:41:11 PM
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Karla Zimmerman
#_Amsterdam
UtrechtRotterdam
& SouthHolland
Friesland(Fryslân)
NortheastNetherlands
CentralNetherlands
Maastricht &Southeastern Netherlands
Haarlem &North Holland
p193
p101
p219p40
p207
p135
p236
p146
YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE
In-depth reviews, detailed listings and insider tips
SURVIVAL GUIDE
Directory A-Z .................. 296Transport ........................ 303Language ........................ 310Index ................................ 318Map Legend .................... 327
VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO
HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP
ON THE ROAD
Dutch has around 20 million speakers world-wide. As a member of the Germanic language family, Dutch has many similarities with English.
The pronunciation of Dutch is fairly straightforward. It distinguishes between long and short vowels, which can a ect the meaning of words, for example, man (man) and maan (moon). Also note that aw is pro-nounced as in ‘law’, eu as the ‘u’ in ‘nurse’, ew as the ‘ee’ in ‘see’ (with rounded lips), oh as the ‘o’ in ‘note’, öy as the ‘er y’ (without the ‘r’) in ‘her year’, and uh as in ‘ago’.
The consonants are pretty simple to pronounce too. Note that kh is a throaty sound, similar to the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch, r is trilled and zh is pronounced as the ‘s’ in ‘pleasure’. This said, if you read our coloured pronunciation guides as if they were English,
’ll b d t d j t Th t d
How are you?Hoe gaat het hoo khaat huht met u/jou? (pol/inf) met ew/yawFine. And you?Goed. khoot En met u/jou? (pol/inf) en met ew/yawWhat’s your name?Hoe heet u/je? (pol/inf) hoo heyt ew/yuhMy name is …Ik heet … ik heyt …Do you speak English?Spreekt u Engels? spreykt ew eng·uhlsI don’t understand.Ik begrijp het niet. ik buh·khreyp huht neet
ACCOMMODATION
language
WANT MORE?For in-depth language information and handy phrases, check out Lonely Planet’s Dutch Phrasebook. You’ll nd it at shop.lonelyplanet.com, or you can buy Lonely Planet’s iPhone phrasebooks at the Apple App Store.
Language
31-language-net5.indd 309 24/01/2013 2:22:59 PM
PAGE
38
PAGE
295
00-title-page-net5.indd 100-title-page-net5.indd 1 8/02/2013 1:14:44 PM8/02/2013 1:14:44 PM
W a
d d e
n z e e
I J s s
e l m
e e r
S E
AN
O R
T H
U
ithu
izenRoo
desc
hool
Del
fzijl
Bour
tang
e
Gro
nin
gen
Ass
en
Em
men
Alm
elo
Lauw
erso
ogH
olw
erd
Hog
ebei
ntum
Dra
chte
n
Snee
k
Hee
renv
een
Zw
olle
Gie
thoo
rn
Kam
pen
Scho
klan
d
Har
linge
n
Mak
kum
Wor
kum
Den
H
eld
erH
inde
loop
en
Stav
oren
Lely
stad
Urk
Enkh
uize
n
Edam
Ho
orn
Vol
enda
m
Med
embl
ik
Lee
uw
ard
en
Fran
eker
Dok
kum
Alk
maa
r Purm
eren
d
Alm
ere
Mui
den
Mon
nick
enda
m
Naa
rden
AM
STE
RD
AM
Haa
rlem
IJm
uide
n
Am
stel
veen
Vel
sen
Nat
iona
l Par
kSc
hier
mon
niko
og
Wee
rrib
ben
Nat
iona
l Par
k
Oos
tvaa
rder
spla
ssen
Nat
ure
Res
erve
Ken
nem
erla
ndN
atio
nal P
ark
7ºE
6ºE
5ºE
4ºE
53ºN
Schi
erm
onni
koog
Ter
sche
lling
Am
elan
d
Vlie
land
Tex
el
DR
ENTH
E
NO
OR
D H
OLL
AN
D
FLEV
OLA
ND
FRIE
SLA
ND
GR
ON
ING
EN
OV
ERIJ
SSEL
IJssel
Win
scho
t erd
iep
Eem
skan
aal
Mar
grie
tkan
aal
Noo
rdze
ekan
aal
A7E2
2
A37
E233
A30
A1
N35
5
E22A7
E232
A28
A6
A32
E22
A7
A7
E22
E22A7
A31
A28
A50
E232
A6
A10
A4A9
A8
A28E232
Tex
el
Am
ster
dam
Food
, dun
esan
d fu
n (p
123)
Wor
ld-f
amou
s ca
nals
good
for
exp
lori
ng (
p40)
Top
Exp
erie
nces
›› T
he N
ethe
rlan
ds
Hen
gelo
Aal
smee
rN
dk
A1A1
02-destination-map-net5.indd 402-destination-map-net5.indd 4 8/02/2013 10:57:52 AM8/02/2013 10:57:52 AM
Naa
rden
A30
A1A4
Ensc
hed
eHen
gelo
Ap
eld
oo
rn
Zutp
hen
Dev
ente
r
Ede
Arn
hem
Nijm
egen
Am
ersf
oo
rtH
ilver
sum
Utr
echt
Doo
rnA
mer
onge
n
Vee
nend
aal
Oss
Den
Bo
sch
Oud
ewat
erNie
uweg
ein
Go
rinch
em
Zaltb
omm
el
Zeis
t
Oos
terb
eek
Ven
lo
Hel
mon
d
Ker
krad
e
Thor
n
Sitt
ard
Valk
enbu
rg
Roe
rmon
d
Hee
rlen
Tilb
urg
Ein
dho
ven M
aast
rich
t
Aal
smee
r
Lei
den
(The
Hag
ue)
Den
Haa
g
Noo
rdw
ijk a
an Z
eeK
atw
ijk a
an Z
ee
Del
ftM
onst
er
Will
emst
adW
este
nsch
ouw
en
Hoe
k va
n H
olla
nd
Ber
gen
Zier
ikze
e op Z
oom
Roo
send
aal
Vee
re
Mid
delb
urg
Dom
burg
Vlis
sing
en
Goe
s
a/d
Rijn
Do
rdre
cht
Kin
derd
ijkR
OTT
ER
DA
M Bre
da
Go
ud
a
Alp
hen
Del
ta P
roje
ct
Nat
iona
l Par
kH
oge
Vel
uwe
De
Vel
uwez
oon
Nat
iona
l Par
k
52ºN
Scho
uwen
-D
uive
land
Wal
cher
en
Zee
uws-
Vla
ande
ren
Noo
rd-
Bev
elan
d
Zui
d-B
evel
and
UTR
ECH
T
NO
OR
D
LIM
BU
RG
BR
AB
AN
T
ZUID
HO
LLA
ND
ZEEL
AN
D
GEL
DER
LAN
D
Lek
Waa
l
Maa
s
B E
L G
I U
M
G E
R M
A N
Y
kaT
wen
te
Julianakanaal
naal
Nat
iona
l Par
kB
iesb
osch
A35
A1
A1E3
0
E35
A18
A12
E232
A325
A77A3
48
A50
A30
E35
A2A2
7A1
A12
A50
A12
A15
E311
A27 A5
9
E35 A2
E30
A73
A67
E34
E25 A7
6
A79
A2
A58
E25
A2
A67
A261
E312
E19
A44
E30
E25
A13
A12
A16
E19
A59
A29
A15
A20
A17
A58
A4E3
12
A4
A2
Maa
stri
cht
Del
ft
Rot
terd
am
Hog
e V
eluw
e N
atio
nal P
ark
of n
atur
e an
d ar
t (p2
34)
Dis
cove
r m
aste
rpie
ces
The
per
fect
littl
eca
nal t
own
(p16
3)
won
ders
(p2
37)
Caf
es c
row
d an
cien
t
of a
rchi
tect
ure
(p16
8)A
city
-siz
ed g
alle
ry
EL
EV
AT
ION
0200m
500m
belo
w s
ea le
vel 30
km
20 m
iles
0 0
02-destination-map-net5.indd 502-destination-map-net5.indd 5 8/02/2013 10:57:54 AM8/02/2013 10:57:54 AM
Itiner-aries
Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
_
•
W E S T E R S C H E L D E
IJ M E E R
N O R T HS E A
Kinderdijk
Deventer
Middelburg
DenBosch
Delft
Utrecht
Maastricht
Den Haag(The Hague)
Rotterdam
AMSTERDAM
É
ÉÉ
É
É
ÉÉ
É
É
ÉÉ
ÉÉ
ÉÉ
É
#_#_
BELGIUM
GERMANY
#•
#•#•
#•
#•
#•
#•#•
#•
#•Waterland
Delta Project
Kröller-MüllerMuseum
#•Haarlem
#• Leiden
#•Keukenhof Gardens
#•#•
#•
É
É
É
Three WeeksSouthern Sojourn
Start in Amsterdam, stay three days, visit the city’s big museums and relax in Von-delpark. Discover the Jordaan and the Southern Canal Belt, then take a load off in Hoppe, a grand cafe on the Spui. Plunge into the city’s celebrated nightlife. Escape the city by bicycle to enjoy the classic beauty of the Waterland region.
Continue on as in the one-week tour to Haarlem, Leiden (and Keukenhof Gardens, in season), Den Haag (The Hague) and Rotterdam, but add a day for Delft and its Vermeer splendour. Take the ferry to see the windmills at Kinderdijk, then head for Middelburg, Zeeland’s prosperous capital, and the nearby Delta Project. Take trains through the Neth-erlands’ southern provinces, stopping for the hidden canals of lovely Den Bosch, before continuing to Maastricht, a city with more panache than most; two days should be enough to sample some great cuisine and meander through the medieval centre. Head north to visit Hanseatic Deventer and then head east to the excellent Kröller-Müller Museum. Polish off your trip in the cosmopolitan yet deeply historic city of Utrecht.
21
08-itineraries-net5.indd 2108-itineraries-net5.indd 21 6/02/2013 11:16:00 AM6/02/2013 11:16:00 AM
AmelandTerschelling
Vlieland
Texel
GERMANY
Afsluitdijk
N O R T HS E A
WA D D E N Z E E
IJ S S E L M E E R
Marken
MuidenNaarden
Hindeloopen
Zwolle
Leeuwarden
Den Helder
Alkmaar
Enkhuizen
Edam
AMSTERDAM
Harlingen
Waterland
LauwersoogHolwerd
Schiermonnikoog
#f
#f#f
#f
#f
#f
#•
#•#•
#•
#_
#•
#•
#•
#•
De Cocksdorp
Oosterend
Nes
ÉÉ
ÉÉÉ
Houtribdijk
#•
Oudeschild#•DenHoorn
#•
Ecomare
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•#•
#•
É
É
ÉÉ
É
É
É
É
Island EscapesCircumnavigatingthe IJsselmeer
Two WeeksThe IJsselmeer
A practical place to start this tour is Amsterdam; three days will whiz by in a blur of museums, parks, ca-nal tours and nightlife. Head north
along the IJsselmeer coast through the Wa-terland region to the tiny fishing village of Marken. Cycle the dykes to cute-as-a-button Edam. Stay overnight before reach-ing Alkmaar early to experience its kitsch but fun cheese market, then wander through Enkhuizen’s enthralling Zuiderzeemu-seum.
Next, catch a bus to Den Helder, and a ferry to Texel. Spend two days (or two weeks…) dividing your time between beach and bike exploration, then take another fer-ry to Vlieland to appreciate the wilder side of the Frisian Islands. From Vlieland, get a ferry to charming Harlingen, from where Leeuwarden is only a short train ride away. Friesland’s capital is an entertaining place, as is the nearby chain of coastal towns high-lighted by Hindeloopen on the IJsselmeer.
Break the train trip at Hanseatic Zwolle and add more stops in Naarden and Mui-den, two historical fortress towns.
One to Two WeeksIsland Escapes
The necklace of low-lying Wadden Islands (Texel, Vlieland, Terschelling, Ameland and Schiermonnikoog) is recognised by Unesco and makes for
good island-hopping. Some ferry links re-quire advance planning; you might be able to link all five by boat but for most there will be connections via the mainland. From Am-sterdam, head to Texel. Bike along the is-land’s western coast from sleepy Den Hoo-rn through dark copses to the Ecomare seal and bird refuge. Comb the eastern side of the island, visiting the superb Maritime & Beachcombers Museum in Oudeschild.
From De Cocksdorp at the northern end of Texel, board the morning ferry to car-free Vlieland to explore its nature and hiking trails before catching the boat to Terschell-ing, Friesland’s main tourist island. Hole up in peaceful Oosterend and cycle the un-touched dunes, then hightail it by ferry to Harlingen, a pretty little port on the Frisian coast, and on to Holwerd, to ferry across to somnolent Ameland. Stay in the whaling port of Nes. Return via the ports of Hol-werd and Lauwersoog and back on a ferry to Schiermonnikoog, the smallest of the Frisian Islands and featuring a windswept, evocative national park.
22
PLAN YO
UR TRIP ITIN
ERA
RIES
08-itineraries-net5.indd 2208-itineraries-net5.indd 22 6/02/2013 11:16:03 AM6/02/2013 11:16:03 AM
#
#
#
#
#
#
#
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
WA D D E N Z E E
IJ S S E L M E E RN O R T H
S E A
Afsluitdijk
Oosterschelde
Hoge VeluweNationalPark
Bourtange
Zwolle
Deventer
Den Bosch
Dordrecht
Groningen
Breda
AMSTERDAM
Den Haag(The Hague)
Rotterdam Kinderdijk
Haarlem
Keukenhof Gardens
Leiden
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
É
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•
GERMANY
BiesboschNationalPark
Weerribben-WiedenNational Park
Borger
KampWesterbork
#÷
#÷
#÷
#•
#•
Houtribdijk ÉÉ
#•
#•
#•
#•
#•#•
#_
Eastern ExperienceThe Lay of the Lowlands
One WeekEastern Experience
The Netherlands’ eastern expanse is largely ignored by tourists, but there is myriad highlights to discover.
Begin your trip in Groningen, a vibrant city filled with students, bars, cafes and a couple of fine museums. Cycle south-east to Bourtange, a perfectly preserved 17th-century fortified town, before moving on to Borger and its prehistoric hunebed-den, stone arrangements once used as burial chambers. Cycle through the woods to Kamp Westerbork and encounter its moving, horrible heritage. Catch a train to Zwolle, an unhurried Hanseatic town that’s ideal for backstreet meanders. A trip through nearby Weerribben-Wieden Na-tional Park should include renting a canoe.
From Zwolle it’s only a short train ride to Deventer, one of the most appealing small towns in the Netherlands. Next, explore the Hoge Veluwe National Park, a natural oa-sis that’s home to a renowned art museum. Then head for Den Bosch, which has a dy-namite museum dedicated to its namesake artist. Breda is your next stop, where you can enjoy the city’s cafe-filled centre. Go back to nature at Biesbosch National Park before finishing up on the lovely old streets and canals of Dordrecht.
One WeekThe Lay of the Lowlands
Begin in Amsterdam. Visit the Van Gogh Museum and the Rijksmuse-um and rent a bicycle to explore the pretty neighbourhood of Jordaan.
On the second day board a canal boat tour and walk the Red Light District before hit-ting a brown cafe or coffeeshop. Or both.
Head west to the town of Haarlem – stroll the compact old quarter, and view the masterpieces at the Frans Hals Museum and the stained glass of the Grote Kerk van St Bavo. In tulip season (mid-March to mid-May) witness the unbelievable col-ours of the Keukenhof Gardens, north of Leiden. Then spend a day among Leiden’s old-world splendour. Next, take a day in Den Haag (The Hague), being sure not to miss the Mauritshuis collection, with five-star works from everyone from Vermeer to Warhol.
In the remaining time take a harbour boat tour in Rotterdam and visit the Mu-seum Boijmans van Beuningen and the Maritiem Museum Rotterdam. The next morning, do a walking tour of the city’s modern architecture before departing for Kinderdijk and its gaggle of Unesco-recog-nised windmills.
23PLAN
YOUR TRIP IT
INER
AR
IES
08-itineraries-net5.indd 2308-itineraries-net5.indd 23 6/02/2013 11:16:04 AM6/02/2013 11:16:04 AM
Look out for these icons:
Our author’s top recommendation
Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first
A green or sustainable option No payment
required
AMSTERDAM . . . . . . .40
HAARLEM & NORTH HOLLAND . . . . . . . . . 101NORTH HOLLAND . . . . . . . . 102Haarlem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .103Zaanse Schans . . . . . . . . . . .109Waterland Region . . . . . . . . .109Monnickendam . . . . . . . . . . . 110Marken . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111Volendam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Edam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112Alkmaar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Broek op Langedijk . . . . . . . 118Hoorn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118Enkhuizen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .120Medemblik . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122Den Helder . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Texel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Muiden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130Het Gooi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .130FLEVOLAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132Lelystad . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .133Urk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
UTRECHT . . . . . . . . . . 135UTRECHT CITY . . . . . . . . . . . 136AROUND UTRECHT CITY . . 143Loosdrechtse Plassen . . . . .143Kasteel de Haar . . . . . . . . . .143Amersfoort . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143Doorn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145Amerongen . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145Oudewater . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145
12a-OTR-title-net5.indd 3812a-OTR-title-net5.indd 38 8/02/2013 11:12:07 AM8/02/2013 11:12:07 AM
On the Road
See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.
ROTTERDAM & SOUTH HOLLAND . . . . . . . . . 146SOUTH HOLLAND . . . . . . . 147Leiden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147Around Leiden . . . . . . . . . . 153Den Haag (The Hague) . . . 153Gouda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161Delft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163Rotterdam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168Around Rotterdam . . . . . . . 181Dordrecht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 183Biesbosch National Park . . . . . . . . . . . 186Slot Loevestein . . . . . . . . . . 186ZEELAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186Middelburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . 187Around Middelburg . . . . . .190Waterland Neeltje Jans . . . 191Schouwen-Duiveland . . . . . 191Zeeuws-Vlaanderen . . . . . . 192
FRIESLAND (FRYSLÂN) . . . . . . . . 193LEEUWARDEN (LJOUWERT) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 195AROUND LEEUWARDEN . . .199Sneek (Snits) . . . . . . . . . . . 199Harlingen (Harns) . . . . . . . 199Hindeloopen (Hylpen) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .201FRISIAN ISLANDS . . . . . . . 202Vlieland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202Terschelling . . . . . . . . . . . . 203Ameland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204Schiermonnikoog . . . . . . . 205
NORTHEAST NETHERLANDS . 207GRONINGEN CITY . . . . . . . 208Around Groningen . . . . . . . 215Bourtange . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 216DRENTHE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Assen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217Kamp Westerbork . . . . . . . 218National Parks . . . . . . . . . . 218Orvelte . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
CENTRAL NETHERLANDS . . . . 219OVERIJSSEL . . . . . . . . . . . . 220Deventer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221Zwolle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224Kampen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227Weerribben-Wieden National Park . . . . . . . . . . .228Northern Overijssel . . . . . .228GELDERLAND . . . . . . . . . . . 229Nijmegen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .229Arnhem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .233Around Arnhem . . . . . . . . .234Hoge Veluwe National Park . . . . . . . . . . .234Apeldoorn . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235Elburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .235
MAASTRICHT & SOUTHEASTERN NETHERLANDS . . . .236MAASTRICHT . . . . . . . . . . . 237Around Maastricht . . . . . . .244North Limburg . . . . . . . . . .244
NOORD BRABANT . . . . . . . 245Den Bosch (‘s-Hertogenbosch) . . . . . .245Eindhoven . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248Efteling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .248Breda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .249West Noord Brabant . . . . 250
12a-OTR-title-net5.indd 3912a-OTR-title-net5.indd 39 8/02/2013 11:12:11 AM8/02/2013 11:12:11 AM
327
Beach
Diving/Snorkelling
Sleeping
Eating
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour
BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight
Entertainment
Shopping
DrinkingCafe
Post OfficeTourist Information
AirportBorder CrossingBus
CyclingFerry
UndergroundTrain Station
MonorailParking
TaxiS-Bahn
Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-Bahn
Other Transport
Cable Car/Funicular
Walking TourDetour
Walking Tour
Path
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
PedestrianOverpass
Secondary
Unsealed Road
Tunnel
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
State/Province
Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
Beach/DesertCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)
River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier
LighthouseHut/Shelter
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
Sights
Activities, Courses& Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking
Information
Transport
Geographic
Hydrography
Areas
Boundaries
Population
RoutesMap Legend
These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want:
1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking
r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment
2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping
C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport
These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly t London Tubei Internet Access # Pet-Friendly j Tram
d Train Reviews are organised by author preference.
Look out for these icons:
o Our author’s recommendation
F No payment required
S A green or sustainable option
Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.
34-our-writers-net5.indd 32734-our-writers-net5.indd 327 8/02/2013 12:01:30 PM8/02/2013 12:01:30 PM
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9835th edition – May 2013ISBN 978 1 74179 895 1© Lonely Planet 2013 Photographs © as indicated 201310 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Ryan Ver BerkmoesCoordinating Author; all chapters except AmsterdamRyan worked on the fi rst edition of Lonely Planet’s The Netherlands, a country where they pronounce his name better than he can, possibly because his ancestors are lurking about there somewhere. Ryan is thrilled to see it continues to be the same charming, amusing, idiosyncratic place. He travels the world writing about great places to visit. Learn more at ryanverberkmoes.com or on
Twitter: @ryanvb.
Karla ZimmermanAmsterdam During her Amsterdam travels, Karla admired art, bicycled crash-free, ate an embarrassing quantity of frites and bent over to take her jenever like a local. She has been visiting Amsterdam since 1989, decades that have seen her trade space cakes for stroopwafels, to a much more pleasant eff ect. She never tires of the city’s bobbing houseboats, cling clinging bike bells and canal houses tilting
at impossible angles. Based in Chicago, Karla writes travel features for newspapers, books, maga-zines and websites. She has written several Lonely Planet guidebooks covering the USA, Canada, Caribbean and Europe.
Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/ryanverberkmoes
OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
OUR WRITERS
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Read more about Ryan at: lonelyplanet.com/members/karlazimmerman.
34-our-writers-net5.indd 32834-our-writers-net5.indd 328 8/02/2013 12:01:35 PM8/02/2013 12:01:35 PM