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Copyright © 2015 - All Rights Reserved
Copyright © 2015 - All Rights Reserved
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James Hodgkinson
November 2015
High Oil Innovations Formulating with high levels of oils, why and how?
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Why oil?
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Moisturising / Hydrating
Botanical / Herbal
Dermatologically Tested
Time / Speed
Vitamin / Mineral Fortified
Paraben Free
For Sensitive Skin
Brightening / Illuminating*
Ethical - Animal
Long Lasting
57.27%
55.87%
38.17%
30.22%
21.99%
21.88%
18.73%
16.73%
16.62%
16.43%
Most popular claims in skincare
Why oil?
Source Mintel GNPD. Feb 15-July 15
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Botanical / Herbal
Brightening / Illuminating
Damaged Hair
Long-Lasting
Moisturising / Hydrating
Time / Speed
Vitamin / Mineral Fortified
Paraben Free
Dermatologically Tested
Ethical / Green Packaging
51.58%
47.41%
23.78%
23.40%
21.29%
21.14%
18.91%
16.10%
11.67%
10.28%
Most popular claims in hair care
Why oil?
Source Mintel GNPD. Feb 15-July 15
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Fragrances
Natural /
Green
Conditioners Preservatives
They provide many functions
Why oil?
Emollients
Moisturisers
Solvents UV Filters
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Why high oil?
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The higher the concentration the
greater the impact
Why high oil?
• Greater emolliency
• Longer lasting moisturisation
• Stronger marketing claims
• More noticeable sensory properties
• Ability to create unique applications
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Which oils?
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0.00%
5.00%
10.00%
15.00%
20.00%
25.00%
30.00%
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Shea Butter
Mineral Oil
SunflowerOil
Jojoba Oil
Petrolatum
SweetAlmond Oil
Olive Oil
Coconut Oil
SoybeanOil
Argan Oil
Which oils?
Source Mintel August 2015
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0.00%
5.00%
10.00%
15.00%
20.00%
25.00%
30.00%
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Mineral Oil
Petrolatum
Which oils?
Source Mintel August 2015
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0.00%
5.00%
10.00%
15.00%
20.00%
25.00%
30.00%
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Shea Butter
Sunflower Oil
Jojoba Oil
SweetAlmond Oil
Olive Oil
Coconut Oil
Soybean Oil
Argan Oil
Which oils?
Source Mintel August 2015
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What about innovation?
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Niche applications based on oils are
becoming more prominent.
Including:
What about innovation?
• Cleansing oils
• Cleansing conditioners
• Moisturising body wash
• Body scrubs
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0.0%
10.0%
20.0%
30.0%
40.0%
50.0%
60.0%
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Use of oils in personal care
What about innovation?
Source Mintel August 2015
Skincare
Hair Care
Colour
Cosm. Soap and
Bath
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5.0%
7.0%
9.0%
11.0%
13.0%
15.0%
17.0%
19.0%
21.0%
2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015
Use of oils in personal care
What about innovation?
Source Mintel August 2015
Hair Care
Colour
Cosm.
Soap and
Bath
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In the market
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Formulating with oils
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Oils in combination with…
Surfactants
Actives
Hair
Conditioning
Agents
Rheology
Modifiers
UV
Filters
Emulsifiers
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Body and Face Cleansing Oil 82% Oil
High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash 50% Oil
Cleansing Hair Conditioner 50% Oil
Face Cleansing Lotion 48% Oil
High Oil Cream 20% Oil
Formulations
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• Clear oil based formulation
• Foams and lathers during application
• Could be used in shower or as a hand / face cleanser
• Moisturising
• Leaves the skin feeling soft and nourished
Body and Face Cleansing Oil
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82% Total Oil – DFL 0051
Body and Face Cleansing Oil
Trade Name INCI Function
Tegosoft® XC Phenoxyethyl Ester Oil
AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annus Oil
Stepan-Mild® GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Surfactant
Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant
Viamerine 2500® Oleic / Linoleic / Linolenic polyglyceride Oil based active
Givaudan Honey Glaze Parfum Fragrance
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High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash
• Used to moisturise the skin during showering
• Time saving
• Foams and lathers on application
• Leaves the skin feeling soft without being greasy
• Could be used as a highly moisturising hand or face wash
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50% Total Oil - DFL 0023
High Oil Bath and Shower Body Wash
Trade Name INCI Function
Water Aqua -
Rewopol® SB F 12 P Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate Surfactant
Tego® Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant
Surfac G995V Glycerin Humectant
AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil
Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/Emulsifier
Saliguard COS Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorophenesin Preservative
Givaudan Raspberry Sorbet Parfum Fragrance
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• Provides 2 in 1 cleaning and conditioning
• Has a conditioner like appearance
• Ideal for ethnic hair cleaning
• Developed by
Cleansing Hair Conditioner
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50% Total Oil - DFL 0068
Cleansing Hair Conditioner
Trade Name INCI Function
Water Aqua -
Surfacare PQ10 Polyquaternium 10 Conditioner
Tego® Betain F50 Cocamidopropyl Betaine Surfactant
Surfac G995V Glycerin Humectant
STEOL® CS 230 HA Sodium Laureth Sulfate Surfactant
AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil
VARISOFT® EQ 100 Bis-(Isostearoyl/Oleoyl Isopropyl) Dimonium
Methosulfate Conditioner
Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Surfactant/Emulsifier
Saliguard COS Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorophenesin Preservative
Givaudan Cherry Glow Parfum Fragrance
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• Simple emulsion
• Could be used as mild daily face wash or for removing
make up
• Uses surfactants in place of traditional emulsifiers to aid
cleansing
Face Cleansing Lotion
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48% Total Oil - DFL 0054
Face Cleansing Lotion
Trade Name INCI Function
Water Aqua -
Stepan-Mild® GCC Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate Emulsifier
Surfacare L30 Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate Emulsifier
AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil
Givaudan Blueberry Fizz Parfum Fragrance
Saliguard CGZ Caprylyl Glycol, 1, 3 Propane Diol Preservative
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High Oil Cream
• Carbopol® stabilised emulsion
• Could be used as a day or night cream
• Can be used as a stable base for addition of active
cosmetic ingredients
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20% Total Oil - DFL 0060
High Oil Cream
Trade Name INCI Function
Water Aqua -
Carbopol® Ultrez 20 Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Emulsion Stabiliser
Bio-terge® AS- 40 HA SB Sodium C14-16 olefin sulphonate Emulsifier
Tego® Betain P50 C Cocamidopropyl betaine Emulsifier
Glucam™ E-10 Methyl Gluceth-10 Humectant
Surfac G995V Glycerine Humectant
Surfac TELA99 Triethanolamine pH adjuster
AAK Sunflower Oil Helianthus Annuus Oil Oil
Schercemol™ NGDO Neopentyl Glycol Diethylhexanoate Oil
AAK Olive Oil Olea Europaea Oil Oil
Saliguard CGZ Caprylyl Glycol, 1,3 Propane Diol Preservative
Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75 Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate Emulsifier
Givaudan Soothing 71 Parfum Fragrance
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Wide range of exotic & functional oils
Oils
Viatenza
Water
Dispersible
Ubuntu
African
Oils
Natural
Oils
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Key Technologies
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Diethylhexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate
Tego® Sulfosuccinate DO75
• Oil soluble anionic
surfactant
• Offers good foaming
properties even in high
oil formulations
• Provides excellent
emulsion stability
• Recommended addition
5 – 20%
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Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate
Crosspolymer
Carbopol® Ultrez 20
• Provides excellent thickening and oil suspension
• Electrolyte stable
• Non-tacky skin feel
• Provides exceptional emulsion stability
• Recommended addition 0.2 – 0.5%
• Easy to disperse polymer
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Glyceryl Caprylate/Caprate
Stepan-Mild® GCC
• Low HLB non-ionic
surfactant
• Thickener and foam
enhancer
• Alternative to Cocamide
DEA
• Ability to suspend
without the need for
polymers
• Excellent solubiliser
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Skin image analyser before and 1hr after 5% Viamerine application
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglyceride
Viamerine®
• Cost effective active
material
• Clinically proven anti-
ageing and moisturising
benefits
• Naturally derived
• Oil soluble
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In Conclusion
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• Oils are widely used for their versatile properties
• Natural oils are gradually replacing synthetics
• Hair and cleansing are the fasting growing market segment
for oil use
In Conclusion
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• Niche applications using oils are becoming more
prominent
• Ingredient manufacturers have developed new
technologies specifically for use in combination
with oils
• Formulating with a high oil phase has never been
easier!
In Conclusion
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Please visit us at stand
228 for a copy of this
presentation and for
samples of our
formulations.
Thank you!
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Surfachem Group Ltd
Registered @ 2nd Floor,
2 The Embankment, Sovereign Street,
Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS1 4BA, United
Kingdom.
Tel : +44 (0) 113 3949200
Fax: +44 (0) 113 3949201
Registered No 3269895.
Surfachem - a 2M Holdings Limited
Company.
enquiries@surfachem.com
www.surfachem.com
@
Twitter @surfachem
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