Saturday night menu for 4 you can 100% make ahead new & exclusive fish recipes by RICK STEIN 6 THE KITCHEN KIT YOU REAL- LY NEED London, Paris, New York, Copen- hagen & San Sebastián NEW FOOD HOT SPOTS IN SEPTEMBER 2014 HOT TREND coconut & lime roast chicken The butternut and sage risotto of your dreams World-beating chilli | Crisp-topped mac ‘n’ cheese CHIPOTLE CORN-ON-THE-COB | BLACKBERRY CHEESECAKE GREEN GODDESS SALAD | PASTA NORMA | DAMSON SLICE CELEBRATE THE NEW SEASON! UPDATE THE CLASSICS: 82 IMAGINATIVE RECIPES
Transcript
Saturday night menu for 4 you can 100% make ahead
new & exclusive fish recipes by RICK STEIN6
THE KITCHEN KIT YOU REAL-LY NEED
London, Paris, New York, Copen-hagen & San Sebastián
NEW FOOD HOT SPOTS IN
SEPT
EMBE
R 20
14
HOT TRENDcoconut & lime roast chicken
The butternut and sage risotto of your dreams World-beating chilli | Crisp-topped mac ‘n’ cheese
CHIPOTLE CORN-ON-THE-COB | BLACKBERRY CHEESECAKE GREEN GODDESS SALAD | PASTA NORMA | DAMSON SLICE
CELEBRATE THE NEW SEASON!
UPDATE THE CLASSICS:
82IMAGINATIVE
RECIPES
NoFrost: Effcient with your time and your energyYour time in the kitchen should be spent creating and
entertaining, not working. With NoFrost freezers from
Liebherr, intelligent technology makes defrosting a thing
of the past.
Liebherr’s frost sensor detects ice build up and automatically
switches on to eliminate build up. As it only activates when
required, it uses less energy and helps make the freezer
quieter – because Liebherr believes in fresh kitchen thinking.
To discover more visit myliebherr.co.uk
or call 08444 122655.
nofrost.liebherr.com
AUGUST 2014 O 3SEPTEMBER 2014 O 3
PO
RTRA
IT: C
HA
RLIE E
DW
ARD
S.
PH
OTO
GRA
PH
: A
NT D
UN
CA
N.
STYLIN
G:
MIK
E C
UTTIN
G.
FO
OD
STYLIN
G:
AN
NA
GLO
VER
What was the most adventurous dish your parents made when you were growing up? Chicken in pineapple and beef in Guinness were my Mum’s go-to recipes when we had people over. She didn’t need
much in the way of tools other than a knife to joint the chicken and a big casserole to cook them in (OK, and a tin opener for the pineapples – it was the seventies). The dishes I like making for friends don’t call for tons of kitchen kit either, but I have come to rely on a mandoline to make potatoes dauphinoise (always a crowd-pleaser) and digital scales for weighing out baking ingredients – neither of which featured in Mum’s kitchen. Before buying both I tapped deputy editor Lulu Grimes, our gadget guru, for her favourite brands. Find out about the kit you really need to make everything from curry pastes to paella in her definitive guide on page 23.
Christine Hayes, Editor
This month in the olive test kitchen…New favourite ingredientBeetroot and goat’s cheese is a standard combination these days, but adding smoked anchovies makes this a really sublime starter – an idea we picked
up from new restaurant Villiers (page 57). We can't get enough of Nardin Smoked Anchovies, £6.75 from brindisa.com
Fish finger wars We put four brands through their paces when making the doorstep sandwich on page 83. We found Waitrose Breaded Cod Fingers had the flakiest texture, crunchiest coating and didn’t go soggy.
Salad styling tipWith the sweetcorn season in full swing, cookery writer Anna suggests how to make the roasted corn salad on p91 look as good as it tastes: ‘Carefully slice the kernels off roasted corn cobs so that some sections remain intact amongst the single kernels. It makes
the salad more visually appealing and gives a variety of texture.’ For a video demo, get the app (see page 67).
7 O JULY 2014
THE EDIT
14 TRENDS & RECIPES Boozy milkshake,
posh cheese on toast, kataifi pastry and
the new fizzy pop
16 PEOPLE & PLACES This month’s hottest
restaurants, the must-order dish at Hix
Oyster and Fish House and how to make
the best steak tartare
18 SHOPPING Italian food-buys from Edinburgh’s Valvona & Crolla
20 DRINKS The UK’s best beer gardens
and a bargain £3.89 red
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 7
NEED TO KNOW
11 RECIPE INDEX
23 LULU’S KITCHEN KIT
Essential tools to knock out everything
from a Thai curry to a red velvet cake
55 SUBSCRIBE TO O Five issues for £5
81 NEXT MONTH’S O
110 READER OFFERS Great deals on
European breaks
118 SMALL PRINT
SEPTEMBER 2014
ContentsCOOK weekend30 WHAT’S IN SEASON Marrow,
sweetcorn, tomatoes, leeks, butternut
squash and damsons
39 ONE CLASSIC RECIPE, TWO GREAT
TWISTS Make the best-ever herb-roast
chicken, butternut risotto and smoky chilli,
then get creative with the leftovers
48 RICK STEIN’S FISH Six exclusive recipes
including swordfish passanda, grilled miso
salmon and clams with XO sauce
57 MENU OF THE MONTH Make-ahead
menu for four from restaurant Villiers
62 GOURMET CHILLI HOT DOG
64 RIO DE JANEIRO Cook like a local
with recipes including roasted leg of
lamb with mint chimichurri and molten
brigadeiro cake
69 THE PALOMAR’S SHAKSHUKIT Make
this deconstructed kebab
70 PRALINE ICE CREAM Step-by-step
COOK everyday74 JANINE'S CHEAP EATS Green
goddess salad and pasta Norma
83 QUICK FIXES Five fast, after-work ideas
including mac ‘n’ cheese
87 SLIMMER DINNERS Healthy meals
including prawn and avocado summer rolls
89 PORK CHOPS Victoria’s wine match
91 3 WAYS WITH SWEETCORN
Coconut and lime roast chicken with coriander chutney1 HOUR | SERVES 4 | EASY
chicken 1, jointed into 8 on-the-bone pieces
coconut milk 200ml (freeze the rest for later)
garlic 3 cloves, bashed
lemongrass 2 stalks, bashed
lime leaves 4
CORIANDER CHUTNEY
shallot 1, finely diced
red chillies 2 small, sliced into rounds
coriander a handful of leaves, finely chopped
limes 2, juiced
groundnut oil 2 tbsp
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas
4. Arrange the chicken in a shallow roasting
tray in a single layer, preferably with space
in between. Pour over the coconut milk and
scatter over the aromatics. Season, cover
with foil and roast for 30 minutes.
• Turn the oven up to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6,
uncover the chicken, baste with the juices and
cook for another 15-20 minutes until golden.
• Mix the chutney ingredients and serve with
the chicken and some steamed rice.
PER SERVING 529 KCAL | PROTEIN 47.1G | CARBS 2.9G
FAT 36.5G | SAT FAT 14.8G | FIBRE 0.5G | SALT 0.4G
MAKE OUR COVER RECIPE
70
CO
VER R
EC
IPE: JA
NIN
E R
ATC
LIFF
E.
PHO
TOG
RA
PH:
SA
M S
TOW
ELL
. STY
LIN
G:
OLIVIA
WA
RD
LE.
FOO
D S
TYLIN
G:
SA
L H
EN
LEY
77
8 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Eat EXPLORE enjoy96 PRO VS PUNTER Tom Parker-Bowles
EDITORIALEDITOR Christine Hayes DEPUTY EDITOR Lulu Grimes FOOD EDITOR Janine Ratcliffe COOKERY WRITER Anna Glover ART DIRECTOR Gillian McNeill DESIGNER Mike Cutting PICTURE EDITOR Gabby Harrington TRAVEL EDITOR Rhiannon BattenCHIEF SUB/PRODUCTION EDITOR Gregor ShepherdSUB EDITOR Sarah Kingsbury EDITORIAL INTERNS Alexandra Groom, Lucy RoxburghWINE RECOMMENDATIONS Christine AustinCOMMISSIONING EDITOR Sophie DeningTo email us, please use [email protected]
RECIPE, RESTAURANT AND TRAVEL ENQUIRIES 020 7150 5024 [email protected], Immediate Media Company Ltd, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London W6 7BT
ADVERTISINGFor advertising enquiries call 020 7150 5030 ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Jason ElsonGROUP HEAD DISPLAY AND CLASSIFIED Myrto KoutsiaSENIOR DISPLAY SALES EXECUTIVE Catherine NicolsonDISPLAY SALES EXECUTIVE Rosie Bee, Candice BurrowCLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Aimee Vince REGIONAL AGENCY SALES Nicola ReardenINSERTS Harry Rowland
BRAND SOLUTIONS BRAND SOLUTIONS GROUP HEAD Nicola Shubrook SENIOR BRAND SOLUTIONS SALES EXECUTIVE Charlie Farr BRAND SOLUTIONS SALES EXECUTIVE Abigail Snelling
PUBLISHINGGROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Alfie Lewis PUBLISHER Simon CarringtonSENIOR MANAGEMENT ACCOUNTANT Len Bright MANAGEMENT ACCOUNTANT Noma Pele
READER OFFERS MAIL ORDER MARKETING MANAGER Liza Evans [email protected]
AD SERVICES AND PRODUCTIONGROUP PRODUCTION MANAGER Koli Pickersgill PRODUCTION MANAGER Kate Willey SENIOR PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Emma PurdyCLASSIFIED SERVICES MANAGER Eleanor Parkman HEAD OF ADVERTISING SERVICES Sharon Thompson ADVERTISING SERVICES COORDINATORS Cherine Araman, Alan Hallett
CIRCULATION AND SUBSCRIPTIONSDIRECT MARKETING MANAGER Emma Shooter SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING MANAGER Lynn Swarbrick DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER Phil Byles TRADE MARKETING DIRECTOR Martin Hoskins
Cook a Mediterranean chicken tray bake (£5/850g) following
packet instructions. When cooked, remove the chicken thighs and
slice. Cook 300g rigatoni (95p/500g) and drain. Toss the chicken
together with the rigatoni and sauce and roasted veg from the pack.
Season, divide between plates and scatter with a handful of chopped
basil (80p/31g).
+
£2.09PER PERSON
+ =
Trend-spotting: The new popBurger Monday Championship at Climpson’s
Arch in Hackney, during which I was handed
a bottle of its ginger beer. Fiery and
refreshing, it blew me away, and I went on
to drink many more.
Dalston Cola started life at a music venue/
community centre in East London called
Passing Clouds, when the owners asked
Duncan O’Brian to find them a more ethically-
produced cola. The chef at the time, Steve
Wilson, created a cola syrup using cola nuts
that he found at nearby Ridley Road Market.
Duncan had been working in the sustainable
food industry for a while and, together, they
went on, with advice from the Kernel brewery,
to develop the drink into a proper business.
Today they produce Dalston Cola, Raw
Fiyah ginger beer and Real
Lemonade using 100% natural
ingredients, and all by hand. This
is evident as soon as you taste
these awesome drinks. With
many of the cooler joints in East
London and further afield now
stocking their products, I can
see a bright future for them.
@ccDISCOBISTRO
dalstoncola.co.uk
He calls himself an
‘ad hoc addict’, and is
the brains behind pop-
ups like Rock Lobsta
and Disco Bistro. Each
month, chef and DJ Carl
Clarke scours the food
world to bring you the
best new trends.
E very Friday, when I was a kid, the
pop man used to do his rounds
on a milk float. He would deliver
big glass bottles of cream soda,
cherryade and cola. Not only did you drink
the pop, but you got 10p back on the empty
bottles, too, which worked out well when you’d
relieved your neighbours of their empties.
There’s been quite a lot in the media lately
about how much sugar is in your average high
street brand of fizzy drink. Six spoons to be
exact, and god knows what else is in there.
So I guess it was only a matter of time before
some young guns created a more natural,
equally refreshing, awesome fizzy drink.
I first came across Dalston Cola when I
competed in – and won – the Young & Foodish
FOR MORE FROM CARL
lulusnotes .com
15 O JULY 2014
PHO
TOG
RA
PHS:
KRIS
KIR
KH
AM
, A
LAM
Y
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 15
the edittrends & recipes
Food editor’s best buyJanine Ratcliffe’s favourite clever products
Quick bitesAs tried in the O test kitchen this month
Inside this gorgeous box, Prestat’s Black Forest Gateau Truffles are
supremely delicious milk chocolate
spheres piped full of silky cherry and
kirsch ganache, then rolled in creamy
white chocolate. £11.50, John Lewis
Brewed only with English blossoms – no
ready-made syrup here – Fentimans Wild English Elderflower is a new,
strictly seasonal addition to its range
of botanically brewed drinks, only on
sale while the season lasts. £1.50,
widely available
We’re impressed with these authentic and deeply
flavoured Miso Tasty soups.
Of the two flavours – classic
shiro and spicy aka – the latter,
a red miso laced with shichimi
mix is our favourite.
£7.70/£7.90 for eight
packets, misotasty.com
To celebrate 200 years as a classic English brand, Colman’s has
released three limited edition jars featuring archive slogans and
imagery – utilitarian but collectible. 99p/100g, widely available.
Posh cheese on toastThis new cheese spread from M&S is basically ready-made rarebit mix in a tub. Keep it simple, grilled on toast, or spread over skinless smoked haddock
fillets then bake in a hot oven until golden and bubbling. Serve with buttered spinach and grilled tomatoes. (£2.79/145g tub)
INGREDIENT WATCH
Kataifi pastry This threadlike dough, in fact shredded filo,
plays a traditional role in Greek and Levantine
confectionery and treats, and makes a good
nest for dessert ingredients. We’re seeing it
among new Middle Eastern restaurants, such
as Palomar (thepalomar.co.uk) in Soho, where
a rose and milk pudding comes with little
coconut meringues and delicate strands of
pastry. At Honey & Co (honeyandco.co.uk)
in Fitzrovia, the cream cheese and kataifi
dessert with honey and pistachio might be the
missing link between baklava and cheesecake.
The chefs at Ametsa (comohotels.com/
thehalkin) in Belgravia deploy it to wrap
a lollipop of scorpion fish. And at Masa
(masajapaneserestaurant.com) in Bristol, you
can eat Japanese-style kataifi-clad prawns.
MENU MUST-ORDER:
Hix Fix Jelly ShotWhen it’s hot, or after a heavy meal, we
love the trend for just a spoonful or two
or something sweet rather than a full-blown
pudding. At Hix Oyster and Fish House
in Lyme Regis, the Hix Fix jelly shot (£3.50)
is made with cider brandy producer Julian
Temperley’s morello cherries in Somerset
apple eau de vie, English fizz Nyetimber and
finished with cream and a morello cherry on
top. If you want to make something similar at
home, you can buy the cherries (£6/10cl) at
ciderbrandy.co.uk.
hixoysterandfishhouse.co.uk
16 O SEPTEMBER 2014
TABLE HOPPINGTOTO’S A glamorous bar with a knack for negronis,
waiting staff as attentive as they are beautiful,
and a secret courtyard make grown-up Italian
Toto’s worth a visit to Made in Chelsea territory.
The classic menu makes the most of top quality
ingredients, simply cooked with skill and
contemporary presentation, such as vitello
tonnato, £12, tagliatelle, summer truffle and
wild forest mushrooms, £15, and tiramisu, £6.
The mainly Italian wine list features a good
selection of wines by the glass, from £7,
including a fantastic still franciacorta.
MUST ORDER: Fritto misto with tartare sauce,
£24, basil panna cotta, £8.
totosrestaurant.com
HUTONG AT THE SHARDOther high-rise restaurants share the view
but lack the sex appeal of this moodily-lit
space. Kick off with a cocktail from a list
created to celebrate the restaurant’s first
anniversary, such as a Fujian Breeze (white
silver tip tea, Hendrick’s gin, Fernet Branca,
mint, cucumber); or a Red Snapper, a
gin-based bloody mary (see the recipe on
lulusnotes.com). Weekday lunch offers the
best deal: set lunch, £28 for five dim sum
dishes. Go at sunset, though, for the most
dramatic view.
MUST ORDER: Sichuan style double-cooked
Iberico pork loin with cabbage and bell
pepper, £26, crispy soft-shell crab with
Sichuan dried chilli, £29. hutong.co.uk
Follow Omagazine on Instagram for more
of the latest restaurant dishes, as well as test
kitchen and shoot snapshots.
ASK FOR JANICE This relaxed newbie near Smithfield Market is
big on gin, giving it its own dedicated menu:
have a Gin Mare with rosemary and orange
or a Martin Miller’s Westbourne, £9, with
strawberries and black pepper while snacking
on chicken crackling, £2.50, and seasonal
pickles, £3. Share a few small dishes like
black dahl, fried cauli and paneer, £6.50,
beef croquettes and mustards, £6.50, or go
large with a grilled comté, Bermondsey fryer
and raclette sandwich, £8. Vintage furniture
and modern artwork add to the chilled vibe.
MUST ORDER: Half a roast chicken with fries
and gravy, £13, little doughnuts with dunks,
£4. askforjanice.co.uk
Blogs we like Cate Bell, 19, from Brighton, is blogging at
cateinthekitchen.co.uk, fitting in cooking and
writing alongside her full-time job in tech.
Brought up on whole foods by her slightly
hippie parents, she set out to share her
rediscovery of healthy eating and nutritious
ingredients, and embarked on a six-week
vegan experiment, which has proved very
popular with her growing readership.
Posting recipes – vegan mango and coconut
loaf, burritos, budget stir-fry – with
appetising photos, as well as handy product
comparisons, Cate blogs in engaging style.
Rookie vegans and would-be healthy eaters
will find plenty to relate to.
PH
OTO
GRA
PH
S:
SH
UTTERSTO
CK
the editpeople & places
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 17
• There are many different stories regarding
the origin of steak tartare. A common one is
that the dish is linked to the Siberian Tartars
who travelled on horseback. They would
place some meat under the saddle, resulting
in a tender piece after a full day of riding.
• Using the highest quality of meat is
essential. We choose the flavoursome skirt cut
of 28-day-aged Aberdeen Angus beef, which
is hand-cut to order. Some restaurants prefer to
use fillet and mince the meat, but cutting it
finely by hand is the best way to keep all the
flavours and juices of the meat intact.
• We always ask guests how spicy they like it.
Cayenne supplies most of the spicy kick,
followed by piment d’Espelette and black
pepper, which are added to the mayonnaise.
The mayonnaise binds the flavours together. I
make it with organic egg yolk, Dijon mustard,
salt and pepper. Then I add anchovies, capers,
gherkins, shallots, and olive oil – finishing with
Worcestershire sauce and Remy Martin VSOP.
• I mix the steak tartare in front of the guest
and serve it from the Gueridon trolley. This
is the way it is served in France. For me,
steak tartare must always be accompanied
by french fries and a green salad.
THE WEST HOUSE, KENT‘Graham Garrett’s restaurant, The West House,
is set in a pretty corner of Kent, but his cooking
is daring and modern with great flavours.
‘He does a foie gras parfait with cured foie
gras, duck confit, pickled rhubarb and spiced
bread, and a fantastic, very classical dish of
grilled turbot and braised cuttlefish.
‘The West House is old world, with beams and
low ceilings, and family-run, with Graham’s
wife and son out front. It all makes for a
fantastic atmosphere’
thewesthouserestaurant.co.uk
Anywhere but LondonTOP TABLES OUTSIDE THE CAPITAL
In September I’ll mostly
be eating game. As the
season starts I’ll be
cooking some fantastic
grouse, pheasant and
venison. September is also
a great time for cobnuts.
I love Italian food
particularly nocellara
olives, lardo di colonnata,
Amalfi lemons. The bold
flavours and freshness
are everything I look for
in food.
If you gave me a tenner I‘d
spend it on Forum muscat
vinegar, a beautifully
elegant sweet vinegar that
gives a lovely edge to
dressings, soups,
vinaigrettes and sauces.
My favourite piece of
kitchen kit is the Smoking
Gun hand-held food
smoker. It’s really easy
to use and has lots of
different application
options, letting you smoke
everything from olive oil
to marshmallows.
Every kitchen needs a roll
of clingfilm. It may be
simple, but its importance
can’t be overstated.
I love eating at The
Sportsman in Seasalter,
Kent. The food is brilliant,
the staff are fantastic and
the location is enchanting.
Andrew McLeish, executive chef at Michelin-starred
Chapter One in Locksbottom (chapteronerestaurant.co.uk),
Orpington, tells us about a fine-dining favourite in Kent.
The hotel’s head chef has brought the menu of this formal but unstuffy family-owned institution up to date without sacrificing any of its British tradition. The menu features classics such as beef Wellington and its signature dish eggs drumkilbo, a seafood cocktail much-loved by the late Queen Mother – The Goring is the hotel nearest to Buckingham Place. thegoring.com
Richard Weiss, co-owner of new Brasserie
Gustave, explains how to serve the perfect
steak tartare. brasserie-gustave.com
PEOPLE WE LIKE
Shay Cooper, the Goring
Cheat sheetSteak tartare
Pecorino marzolino
rosso is a semi-
hard ewe’s milk
cheese from Italy,
rubbed with tomato
paste to achieve its
distinctive colour
and sweet flavour.
(£10.47/300g)
For a beautiful
selection of our
freshest Italian
produce, try our large
fresh vegetable and
fruit box. We import
two pallets direct from
the market in Milan
every week. (£25)
Campofilone chitarra
pasta is similar to
spaghetti but flat:
traditionally it is
created by pressing
pasta sheets through
wires strung like
a chitarra (guitar).
(£4.99/250g)
The Caffè
Bar coffee
was created
by Carlo
Contini,
Philip’s
father, and
is vacuum
packed
when
roasted and
ground to make
sure it stays fresh.
We love it so much
it’s used in our café
and restaurant.
(£4.99/250g)
The Fonteluna
sausage is made
for Valvona & Crolla
from our own
200-year-old family
recipe, and has
its own registered
trademark. (£6.99)
The Oxford Companion to Food, 3rd edition
IN OUR GOOD BOOKS
The wondrousness of this
reference book,
compiled by Alan
Davidson and updated
by his collaborator Tom
Jaine, cannot be
overstated. We defy you
not to get sidetracked as
you look up Pliny,
lichens, toast, sous vide
and Abernethy biscuits,
among more than
3,000 entries. (£40, OUP)
PH
OTO
GRA
PH
S: A
DRIA
N T
AYLO
R
18 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Object of desire Mary and Philip Contini, fourth-
generation owners of Edinburgh’s
Valvona & Crolla Italian
delicatessen highlight some
favourite products.
There’s a new one every month from Originàrio, which packs its wooden boxes with artisanal food and wine
products from small producers around Italy, plus tasting notes and recipes.
(About £150, originar.io)
BUYER’S GUIDE
Our classic
V&C prosecco
is a delicate
and elegant
fizz, with
aromas
of green
apple, pear
and melon.
It is light on
the palate,
with notes
of citrus
and stone fruits.
(£12.95/75cl)
Produced at the
Belmonte estate
on the Amalfi coast,
Punta Licosa
tarragon & garlic
infused olive oil
is incredibly versitile;
ideal for soups, or to
drizzle on roasted
veg, with salmon or
in a mayonnaise.
(£10.95/25cl)
Brindisi rosso is
packed with dark
forest fruits and
plum; full-
bodied, soft,
supple,
harmonious
and velvety.
A classic.
(£10.95/
75cl)
Italian tasting box
the editshopping
Katie Alice ® TM 2546896UK
The pretty design and subtle
colours of the Cottage Flowercollection are now available
across a range of vintage
inspired baking accessories
and cookware.
Order now at:www.english-table.comFor your nearest stockist
please call:
01536 207710
20 O SEPTEMBER 2014
the editdrinks
BOOZE BUY ABELHA
ORGANIC CACHAÇA
OK, so England didn’t storm to victory
in the World Cup, but some good
did come out of their adventures
in Brazil, namely that they introduced
a lot of people to the caipirinha and
its key ingredient. Made from organic
sugar cane, and small-batch distilled
in copper pots, Abelha’s cachaça
is full-flavoured, with intense fruity
notes and a smooth finish, perfect for
making caipirinhas at home.
Find our recipe on lulusnotes.com.
(£22.25, thewhiskyexchange.com)
Speakeasy-style bars are all the rage and
the Discount Suit Company has got it spot
on. Once there, you’ll be greeted by low
beams, antique furniture, and some
outstanding cocktails. The team launch
their second venue, the Sun Tavern in
Bethnal Green later this month.
(discountsuit company.co.uk)
Skipper5 MINUTES | SERVES 1 | EASY
Flor de Caña* 25ml
white port 20ml
Antica Formula 25ml
Angostura bitters a dash
Pour the ingredients into a tumbler and
stir with ice to dilute to taste. Zest with
orange and drop the peel into the glass.
*Flor de Caña is available from
thewhiskyexchange.com (£16/37.5cl)
Cocktail of the month
BAR HOPPINGIf you’re looking for the best pub gardens for
rest or play, try these recommendations
THE LORD CLIFDEN, BIRMINGHAMFollow the golden
goose outside and
you’ll find the ultimate
pub garden in which
your Sunday will
disappear. Retro
games, ping pong,
TVs showing sport,
killer roasts and an
outdoor bar. What’s
not to love?
(thelordclifden.com)
THE AVALON, LONDONThe Avalon’s back
garden (below) is
so much more than
a patio with benches.
Filled with flowers,
umbrellas, tables and
chairs, it’s perfect for
a sunny afternoon.
Tuck into its full menu
or grab a burger
from the BBQ. If it
gets cold, snuggle
up to a heater with
a blanket. (the
avalonondon.com)
DUKE’S 92, MANCHESTERLooking for an
outside drinking spot,
you can’t do much
better than this. These
guys have got size on
their side. It’s a
buzzy place, so bring
all your mates and
relax as the BBQ is
fired up. (dukes92.
com)
BARGAIN BOTTLEVineyards Côtes du
Rhône NV, France,
13% (£3.89, Tesco)
For mid-week
suppers, this is a
great-value, simple,
juicy Rhône wine
with raspberry fruit
and soft tannins.
Perfect with pizza.
CÔTES DU RHÔNEOur wine expert Christine Austin chooses
wines to suit your budget
WORTH THE EXTRAE. Guigal Côtes du
Rhône 2010, France,
14% (£11.75,
Majestic)
This Côtes du Rhône
is a big step up in
quality. It has a core
of robust, dark red
berry fruit, overlaid
with spice and white
pepper notes. It’s
great with a spiced
lamb tagine.
TWO PRICES
One wine
FOR MORE BAR TIPS,
GET THE APP!See page 67Ask the bartender
WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN BOURBON AND WHISKEY?Bourbon is a type of whiskey produced in
the US. The main difference between the
two is in the production process: bourbon
has to contain at least 51% of corn and
that gives it a sweeter taste than other
whiskeys. After distillation, the bourbon is
rested in charred new oak barrels with an
ABV of no more than 62.5%. Whiskey
that doesn’t meet these specific conditions
is not bourbon. For drinks like old
fashioned or Manhattan,
go for your favourite
bourbon, I like
Woodford Reserve
or Maker’s Mark.
Boris Chlebec works at
the Big Easy in Covent
Garden which stocks
over 40 bourbons
(bigeasy.co.uk)
YOUR EVERYD
AY INDULG
ENCE
From the iconic Classic Cafetière to espresso makers,
chocolatières, teapots, gift sets and accessories La Cafetière has the ideal
product for you to create that perfect ‘Cafè experience’ at home.
Call +44 (0)1536 207710 Order now at: [email protected] Visit us at: www.lacafetiere.com
La Madeleine Bonne Maman. A traditional French recipe with
fresh eggs and butter. Lovingly baked, individually wrapped.
Delicious to eat.
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 23
STYLIN
G: LU
IS P
ERA
L
Lulu’s kitchen kit
I’ve chosen my favourite trusted brands
here. Of course you’ll also need a
chopping board, a wooden spoon or
three, and a couple of decent knives,
as well as a few cheaper items (see page 26)
but you don’t need to spend a fortune to start
with, just what you can afford. Look in
supermarkets and IKEA for saucepans,
chopping boards, colanders etc. You can
always upgrade when you have more cash.
Modern recipes demand a different set of tools to those your mother owned. Here are today’s must haves so you can knock out a Thai curry, red velvet cake and decent coffee with ease Words LULU GRIMES Photography MYLES NEW
BENRINER MANDOLINE
Why? To cut wafer-thin radish slices for
Japanese pickles, shave fennel for a salad and
make light work of a potato dauphinoise you
need a mandolin. This will also shred carrot
and celeriac into fine matchsticks and speed
up stir-fry chopping for a realistic 30-minute
meal. I like this Japanese mandoline because it
is compact and fits in my kitchen drawer, plus,
I can sharpen the blade in my knife sharpener.
Cost These cost around £20, but you may find
one marginally cheaper on ebay.co.uk.
MAGIMIX
MINI CHOPPER
Why? You can use it to chop garlic and
onions, or anything else for that matter. It will
purée chickpeas to make houmous, make
mayonnaise with the emulsifying blade, chop
nuts and whizz together a batch of pastry. The
blade is very efficient, so purées are smooth
and chopped items evenly sized and lump-free.
The bowl comes off so cleaning is simple and
it’s heavy enough to stay steady.
Cost About £49.95, and a worthwhile
investment. johnlewis.com
24 O SEPTEMBER 2014
DELONGHI SCULTURA ECZ351
COFFEE MACHINE
Why? If a coffee first thing in the morning
is essential to you, a decent coffee machine
will be paid for very quickly. The ECZ351 can
be used with ground coffee or ESE pods, has
a steam pipe for milk and a cup warmer on
top. It isn’t fully automatic, so you have to
control the strength of your coffee but it gives
a good crema.
Cost £199.95, which, versus cost of coffee
bought by the cup over a year, is very
reasonable. johnlewis.com
BODUM HAND MIXER
Why? A hand whisk is essential for baking.
You can use it for small amounts of batter
and a stand mixer won’t do justice to 1 egg
white, so unless you are planning on making
wedding cakes, a hand mixer may well be
enough for you. Plus you can use it for other
things; potatoes can be whisked to fluffy mash
still in the saucepan, or a zabaglione knocked
up in a bain marie. This Bodum mixer has a
good motor and is comfortable to hold.
Cost The best price I’ve found is Tesco direct’s
at £29.95. tesco.com/direct/
SALTER AIR SUPER SLIM
KITCHEN SCALES
Why? A lot of recipes rely on precise weights,
so if you want to get it right, you can’t function
without scales. These fit in a drawer and the
zero-weight mechanism means you can put
whatever you want on them – I weigh straight
into bowls, plastic boxes and saucepans or
straight onto the stainless steel top. They also
measure liquid in ml if you need them to.
Cost RRP £29.99 but often much cheaper
on amazon.co.uk.
OXO GOOD GRIPS ANGLED
MEASURING JUG
Why? Because bread-making, baking and
anything else with a precise liquid
measurement requires a jug rather than
guestimating with a wine glass. This is a jug
you can use looking down into, as well as
through the side, which makes it ideal and it
starts at 10ml which is great.
Cost A bargain at £6.99, lakeland.co.uk
whisk
WEIGH
measure
25 O JULY 2014SEPTEMBER 2014 O 25
need to know kitchen kit
SAINSBURY’S COOK’S COLLECTION TRI-PLY 24CM SAUTÉ PANWhy? A sauté pan with a lid has many uses.
I like copper, and I don’t mind cleaning it,
so this is my favourite at the moment. The
non-stick surface conducts and distributes heat
really well, it fries an egg and cooks bacon
without trouble. I use it to make stews, tagines
and curries and also paella, and because the
handle goes in the oven (it is oven safe to
180C) I can start a piece of meat in it and then
transfer it while making only
one pan dirty. Its only downfall is that it won’t
work on an induction hob.
Cost In the world of good quality pans this is
not expensive at £60, and occasionally they
come up in sales so keep your eyes peeled.
sainburys.co.uk
CUISINART SG20 ELECTRIC SPICE AND NUT GRINDERWhy? If you plan on making your own spice
blends (freshly ground garam masala beats the
pants off ready-bought) or curry pastes,
grinding nuts or flavouring sugars with herbs,
a decent grinder will save you lots of time. It
does the job of a pestle and mortar and is
more efficient than a mini chopper when you
want a fine grind. You won’t know how you
managed without it.
Cost £49.95 and worth every penny if Indian
food features regularly in your life.
johnlewis.com
MICROPLANE FINE GRATERWhy? This will zest a lemon, lime or orange
perfectly, turn garlic cloves and lumps of
ginger to pulp, convert parmesan to fine
shavings and grate nutmeg freshly. It is the
original kitchen helper and, with its super-
sharp etched blades, really does have the
edge on others. Buy a coarse one as well
and you’ll have cheese and chocolate grating
covered too.
Cost At £14.99, the Home Series is cheaper
than some of the other microplane series.
lakeland.co.uk.
SIZZLE
GRATE
26 O SEPTEMBER 2014
need to know kitchen kit
10 ESSENTIALS FOR
UNDER A TENNER
U-SHAPED POTATO PEELERLakeland has one at a bargain price that
is sharp and efficient and has a big U which
makes peeling easier. £2.29, lakeland.co.uk.
FISH SLICE/TURNERBuy a nylon one if you have non stick pans.
You can often buy a set and get a big spoon
and slotted spoon too.
SAUCE WHISKThese are cheap as chips and are great for
belting lumps out of sauce, whisking eggs
together and making dressing quickly.
MIXING BOWLSStacking bowls are easier to store. I like
stainless steel or polypropylene as they
are lighter than glass or ceramic.
TIN OPENERAlthough some tins have ring-pulls, plenty
don’t. Buy one that suits your grip and consider
electric if you find turning the key difficult.
KITCHEN SCISSORSSnip herbs, cut up pizza, joint chicken (buy
ones with a groove for cutting through bones).
A good pair of kitchen scissors can be used
instead of a knife on lots of occasions.
MEASURING SPOONS Essential for baking when guessing isn’t good
enough. Buy a set that ties together.
A COLANDERThe JosephJoseph square colander has a good
handle, knobbly feet on the base so you can
put it down, and a shape that helps disgorge
the contents easily. £9.50, johnlewis.com.
A RUBBER SPATULAI like spatulas with handles that won’t pull off
easily, otherwise the top gets stuck in the mix.
TONGSTongs are dead useful for turning things over,
lifting pasta out of pans and moving hot
ingredients around. If you have non-stick
pans buy ones with rubber edges.
KENWOOD STICK BLENDERWhy? This can do the job of a mini chopper
if you don’t own one, and if you’re a heavy
consumer of soups, you’ll find it a godsend.
Efficient at making smooth purées, it has three
blades instead of the usual two, a motor with
plenty of welly, and the purée attachment
means it’s not splashy (some brands are more
so than others). The basic model is cheaper,
but if you spend more you can have a whisk
attachment for whipping egg whites and cream
and a bowl for chopping nuts, garlic etc.
Cost The basic model is around £29.99 and
the one with attachments £59.99, currys.co.uk
STELTON AJ PEPPER MILLWhy? An efficient, well-made pepper grinder
will last you a lifetime. This has the added joy
of being very easy to refill: the rubber knob
pulls out of the top and the peppercorns pour
straight in. Mine is 10 years old and as good
as the day it was bought.
Cost £59.95. Ask for it as a present.
skandium.com
FOR MORE KITCHEN TIPS
lulusnotes .com
to the customer
This 50p coupon may be used as part payment towards your next purchase of any Mission Deli Wrap pack product. One coupon per person. Coupon must be presented at time of purchase , can only be used once and must be surrendered upon use. Not to be used in conjunction with any other of er, promotion, discount or other coupon. Only original and undamaged coupons accepted. Void if reproduced, altered or tampered with. Not for sale or auction. Not available online. valid until: 01/11/14
to the retaiLER
Mission Deli will redeem this coupon at the value of 50p provided it has been taken as part payment towards any Mission Deli Wrap pack product in accordance with the Customer terms. Mission Deli reserves the right to request proof of purchase or to refuse redemption of defaced or damaged coupons or those that have not been correctly redeemed as per instructions. Send coupons to Valassis, PO Box 6199,
Nuneaton CV11 9HQ. within 3 months of the Customer validity date.
1652/ 00063
50P OFF
9 913811 480507
W I L K I N & S O N S L I M I T E D T I P T R E E C O L C H E S T E R E S S E X C O 5 0 R F W W W. T I P T R E E . C O M
T i p t r e e . T h e p r e s e r v e o f g o o d t a s t e .
“ I h a v e t h e s i m p l e s t t a s t e s ,
I a m a l w a y s s a t i s f i e d w i t h t h e b e s t . ”
Osca r Wi lde 1854 -1900
Tagliatelle with
lemon roast chicken
page 47
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 29
PH
OTO
GRA
PH
: PETER C
ASSID
Y
Melting onion,
pine nut and
curd cheese tart
page 51
Relaxed recipes for a spare afternoon in the kitchen, or cooking for friends
weekendCOOK
GRILLED MISO SALMON | BLACKBERRY CHEESECAKE | PRALINE ICE-CREAM | SMOKY BEEF CHILLI SUPPLÌ AL TELEFONO | TOMATO AND CHEDDAR PIE | SWORDFISH PASSANDA
30 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Scallops with
charred leeks
and basil oil
page 32
Make the most of marrow, sweetcorn, tomatoes, leeks, butternut squash and damsons while you can
Recipes LULU GRIMES Photographs PHILIP WEBB
In season
cook weekend in season
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 31
Buternut squash and black bean soup with tortillas page 32
Scallops with charred leeks and basil oil30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
baby leeks 6
olive oil 100ml
basil a bunch
scallops 10, cleaned and roes left on if you like them
cherry tomatoes 10, halved
• Rub the leeks with a little oil, then chargrill for 10 minutes until very
brown on the outside. Put them in a dish, cover them tightly with foil and
put a tea towel on top so they continue cooking in the residual heat.
• Whizz the basil leaves with enough oil to give a thick, dark dressing.
• Brush the scallops with oil and season them well. Heat a pan until
it is very hot, then fry the scallops on each side for a couple of minutes
until they are brown and crisp. Pull the outer layer of skin off each leek.
Divide them between 2 plates, add 5 scallops and 10 halves of cherry
tomatoes to each. Spoon over the basil oil dressing to serve.
PER SERVING 359 KCALS | PROTEIN 11.1G | CARBS 6.7G | FAT 31.1G | SAT FAT 4.5G | FIBRE 3.4G
SALT 0.8G
Buternut squash and black bean soup with tortillas40 MINUTES | SERVES 6 | EASY
onions 2, finely chopped
oil
garlic 4 cloves, finely sliced
ground coriander 1 tbsp
tinned cherry tomatoes 2 x 400g tins
chipotle chillies in adobo 3, chopped
butternut squash 1 small, peeled and cubed
chicken stock 1.5 litres
black beans 400g tin
tortillas 2
soured cream 6 tbsp
cheddar grated to make 6 tbsp
avocado, 1 cubed
pickled jalapeño chillies 4 rings, finely chopped
• Fry the onion in plenty of oil in a deep pan until it softens, then add
the garlic and coriander and fry for a minute or two. Add the tomatoes
and chillies and bring to a bubble, then season well and add the squash
and chicken stock. Simmer for about 15 minutes, or until the squash is
tender. Stir in the beans and heat through for a minute.
• Meanwhile, toast the tortillas in a dry frying pan until they are crisp,
then cut into slices. Serve the soup topped with the soured cream, cheese,
avocodo and jalapeños, with the tortilla slices on the side.
PER SERVING 382 KCALS | PROTEIN 20.3G | CARBS 32.4G | FAT 16.8G | SAT FAT 7.4G | FIBRE 9.9 G
SALT 1.2G
Wine match Simple red berry fruit and soft tannins in Zilzie Merlot 2012, South Australia, 14%
(£5, Asda) work well with this soup.
Wine match Perfect with shellfish, try the crisp, sea-breeze tang of Finest Picpoul de Pinet 2013,
Languedoc-Roussillon, France, 12.5% (£7.99, Tesco).
ANY LEFTOVERS? MAKE THESE . . .Tamale pie1 HOUR | SERVES 6 | EASY
smoky beef chilli 750g (see recipe page 44)
polenta 225g
plain flour 150g
caster sugar 1 tbsp
baking powder 1 tbsp
salt 1 tsp
eggs 2
whole milk 150ml
butter 70g, melted
pickled jalepeños 6 pieces, chopped
coriander ½ small bunch, chopped
cheddar 200g, grated
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160/gas 4. Put the beef chilli in the
bottom of a large ovenproof baking dish.
• Put the polenta, flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a bowl and
mix. Whisk the eggs, milk and butter together, then stir this into the dry
ingredients. Mix in most of the the jalepeños with the coriander and
¾ of the cheese.
• Spoon the polenta over the chilli, then scatter the top with the rest
of the cheese and jalepeños. Bake for 30-40 minutes until golden
and piping hot.
PER SERVING 669 KCALS | PROTEIN 31.9G | CARBS 63.9G | FAT 31.1G | SAT FAT 16.6G
FIBRE 2.6G | SALT 2.8G
RELISH THE ACTIONT e Ascot Festival ofFood and Wine Raceday
Saturday 6th September
Tickets from £20 per person
Fine Dining from £145 per person +VAT
Visit ascot.co.uk to book
Savour the fi nest fare from local farmers’ markets and
sample a selection of excellent wines from around the
world. Celebrity Chef James Martin will be giving a cooking
demonstration and designing an exclusive menu for our
new restaurant, On 5. And with seven exciting Flat races at
this historic racecourse it’s sure to be a memorable day out.
Crab claw gumbo with
fiery pepper rouille
page 48
Grey mullet soup with harissa
page 52
48 O SEPTEMBER 2014
PLENTY MORE FISHRick Stein uses old favourites and some more unusual fish to create six new exclusive recipes Recipes RICK STEIN Photographs JAMES MURPHY
STYLIN
G:X
XXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXX.F
OO
D S
TYLIN
G:X
XXXXX X
XXXXXXX.
WO
RD
S X
XXXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXXX
Hot pollack slices in a wrap with bok choi, beansprouts, garlic and ginger30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Alternatively, use any
cheap, sustainable fish,
such as coley, hake,
or whiting.
couscous 90g
pollack fillet 400g,
cut into 1cm slices
vegetable oil
garlic 3 cloves,
crushed
ginger 15g, grated
flour tortilla
wraps 4 x 20cm
diameter
bok choi or salad
cabbage 60g,
thinly sliced
beansprouts
60g, blanched
spring onions 8,
sliced diagonally
coriander a small
bunch, roughly
chopped
Tabasco sauce or
sriracha ½ tsp
soy sauce ½ tsp
• Put the couscous in a
shallow bowl. Season the fish
lightly with salt and turn over in
the couscous, then gently fry in
a shallow pan with 6 tbsp vegetable
oil for 3 minutes. Remove the fish to
a plate, add the garlic and ginger to
the pan and fry with the residual couscous
for 1-2 minutes.
• To warm the tortillas, put on a hot,
dry frying pan, or under a hot grill, for
approximately 6 seconds on each side. Put the
fish in the centre of each of the wraps. Sprinkle
with bok choi and beansprouts, then spoon
over the garlic, ginger, couscous and oil from
the pan. Cover with the spring onions and
coriander, then drizzle over the Tabasco and
soy sauce. Fold up the wraps and serve.
cook weekend
rick stein’s fsh
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 49
50 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Swordfish passanda with chilli, almonds, yoghurt
and cardamon page 52
Clams with XO sauce, spring onions and coriander page 52
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 51
cook weekend
rick stein’s fish
52 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Swordfish passanda with chilli, almonds, yoghurt and cardamom30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
This take on a mild north Indian dish has been
designed for serving at a drinks party, either
on cocktail sticks or on quarters of small
poppadoms puffed up in the microwave.
Swordfish works well because it is firm-
textured, but so does John Dory, leatherjacket,
monkfish, prawns, squid or triggerfish.
cinnamon stick 3cm
cardamom pods 2, seeds removed
and outer shell discarded
coriander seeds 1 tsp
vegetable oil 3 tbsp
onion 1 small, grated
garlic 3 cloves, grated
ginger 20g, grated
turmeric powder ½ tsp
chilli powder ½ tsp, such as kashmiri
yoghurt 20g
tomatoes 400g, chopped
ground almonds 2 tbsp
sugar ½ tsp
swordfish fillet 500g, cut into 2cm cubes
TO SERVE
coriander a handful, chopped
poppadoms (optional)
• Grind the cinnamon, cardamom and
coriander seeds in a spice grinder.
• Heat the oil, add the onion, garlic and
ginger, and cook gently for 10 minutes. Add
the freshly-ground spices, the turmeric and
chilli, stir for 30 seconds, then add the
yoghurt, tomatoes, almonds, 1 tsp salt, sugar
and 50ml water.
• Simmer until reduced by three-quarters, then
gently stir in the fish and cook for 3-4 minutes.
The sauce should be coating the fish well.
Sprinkle with coriander and serve with cocktail
sticks or on pieces of poppadom.
Grey mullet soup with harissa, spring onions and Pink Fir Apple potatoes50 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
Although I’ve called this a soup, it’s more like
fish with lots of sauce. The soup can be made
with shop-bought harissa, but add saffron in
that case. You can use any medium-oily fish,
such as red mullet, sea bass or snapper.
whole grey mullet 1kg
olive oil 90ml
onion 1 medium, sliced
carrot 1, sliced
celery 1 stick, sliced
garlic ½ bulb, sliced but not peeled
harissa 1 tbsp
chopped tomatoes 400g, fresh or tinned
tomato purée 2 tbsp
saffron threads a pinch (if using
shop-bought harissa)
orange peel 1 strip
Pink Fir Apple potatoes 300g,
or other small waxy potatoes, peeled
and sliced lengthways
spring onions 10, sliced diagonally
parsley a small bunch, finely chopped
aïoli (garlic mayo) to serve
• Scale, gut and fillet the fish (or get your
fish monger to do it). Cut the fillets into
2cm-wide slices.
• Use the head and bones to make a stock:
heat half the olive oil in a pan. Add the onion,
carrot, celery and garlic and all the fish
trimmings. Fry for 5 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the harissa, tomatoes, tomato purée,
saffron (if using), orange peel, 1.5 litres of
water and season.
• Bring to the boil and simmer for half an
hour. Pass through a fine strainer, pressing
through as much of the stock using the back of
a ladle as possible. Discard the solids. Return
the stock to the heat and reduce by half.
• Boil the potatoes in salted water until tender.
Heat a frying pan with the remaining oil and
cook the fillets skin-side down over a moderate
heat for 6-7 minutes.
• Put the mullet, potatoes and spring onions
into 4 warmed, wide soup bowls, sprinkle on
the parsley, pour the soup gently on top and
add a dollop of aïoli.
Clams with XO sauce, spring onions and coriander20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY
XO sauce is a spicy seafood sauce commonly
used in southern China, and becoming
increasingly available in the West. If the clams
are straight out of the water they will produce
a lot of liquid when they open. In this case,
scoop out the clams and reduce the liquid
by rapid boiling, then return the clams to the
reduced sauce. Buy XO sauce and fermented
black beans from Asian supermarkets or online
at souschef.co.uk.
oil
ginger 30g, grated
garlic 4 cloves, crushed
red chilli 1, thinly sliced (seeds removed
if you want less heat)
fermented black beans 1 tsp, chopped
sugar 1 tsp
XO sauce 2 tbsp
fresh clams 1.5kg, washed in cold water
Shaoxing rice wine or dry sherry 2 tbsp
soy sauce 1 tbsp
cornflour 1 tbsp, slaked with a little water
spring onions 6, sliced
coriander a handful, roughly chopped
• Heat 3 tbsp of oil in a wok over a high heat.
Add the ginger, garlic, chilli, black beans,
sugar and XO sauce and cook for 1-2 minutes.
• Add the clams, Shaoxing wine and soy
sauce, cover with a lid and cook over a high
heat for 2 minutes, shaking the pan a couple
of times. Check to see the clams are opened,
then stir in enough of the cornflour to thicken
the sauce to coat the back of a spoon.
• Add the spring onions and coriander, toss
a few times and serve.
STYLIN
G:X
XXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXX.F
OO
D S
TYLIN
G:X
XXXXX X
XXXXXXX.
WO
RD
S X
XXXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXXX
cook weekend
rick stein’s fsh
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 53
Grilled miso salmon with rice noodles, spring onions and beansprouts page 54
54 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook weekend
rick stein’s fish
Pan-fried mackerel fillets, hot pickled slaw and fried capers30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 AS A STARTER | EASYThis is my son Jack’s recipe. It’s an Asian
version of escabeche, the way of cooking oily
fish with vinegar to preserve them and cut the
oily richness. Here the flavours of dashi and
star anise predominate. Use a non-stick pan
to fry the mackerel as the skin is thin. You can
also use herring, horse mackerel or sardines.
mackerel fillets 4
rice wine vinegar or white wine
vinegar 75ml
dashi granules or powder ½ tsp
(buy from souschef.co.uk)
oil
capers 1 tsp
chervil or parsley a few sprigs
butter 10g
SLAW
carrot 50g, finely sliced into rounds
shallot 25g, finely sliced into rounds
juniper berries 2
black peppercorns 2
star anise 1
thyme a sprig
chilli flakes a pinch
• Sprinkle the flesh side of the mackerel with
½ teaspoon of salt and leave for 5 minutes.
Combine the vinegar, 50ml water and dashi
granules in a bowl.
• Wash the salt off the mackerel and lay them
on a plate, skin-side up. Pour over the pickling
liquid so that it covers the flesh side but does
not completely submerge the fillets (discard the
rest). Leave to pickle for 10 minutes, then
remove and pat dry, reserving the liquid.
• Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan and fry the
capers until crispy.
• For the slaw, put the carrot and shallot in
a pan with the juniper berries, peppercorns,
star anise, thyme, chilli and a good pinch
of salt. Pour the reserved pickling liquid over
the slaw, bring to the boil, take off the heat
and leave to cool.
• Heat a frying pan and brush with a thin film
of oil. Fry the mackerel fillets skin-side down
over a moderate heat for 1½-2 minutes.
• Assemble the mackerel on a serving dish
with the warm pickled vegetables and all the
spices. Sprinkle with the capers and the chervil
or parsley. Deglaze the frying pan with the
pickling liquor left from the veg, add the butter,
reduce briefly, and spoon around the edge.
Grilled miso salmon with rice noodles, spring onions and beansprouts20 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASYThis recipe works best with steaks of large oily
Great reasons to subscribe: • Get your first five issues for £5* when you pay by direct debit• Continue your subscription and you’ll pay £18.70 every six issues, saving 20%.• Get your issue before it hits the shops each month• Benefit from our money back guarantee**
In every issue of O:
*After your first five issues for £5, your subscription will continue at £18.70 every six issues by direct debit (saving 20%). ** You are free to cancel your subscription at any time and receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. If you cancel within two weeks of receiving your 4th issue you’ll pay no more than £5. This offer is open for UK delivery addresses only. Overseas subscribers should call +44 (0) 1795 414705 or go online for orders and enquiries. Full UK subscription price for 13 issues: £50.70, Europe/Eire £57, rest of the world £75. This offer ends on 30 September 2014.
Every issue of O is packed with 80+ recipes, restaurants and food-inspired travel. Subscribe now and never miss an issue!
Enjoy five issues delivered direct to your door for just £5.* If you decide to cancel your trial subscription after that, you won’t pay any more.
Relaxed recipes for when you have friends over, or a spare afternoon
in the kitchen.
Imaginative food is possible even when you’re short of time. Try one
of our quick and easy suppers.
Get there before the crowds with guides to the best restaurants and
food-inspired escapes.
COOK
WEEKEND
COOK
EVERYDAY
EAT,
EXPLORE,
ENJOY
JULY
2014’s hottest BBQ recipes |Peach tart, ice cream, friands&more | Light& low-carbmenu for 4
when you subscribe today
Call the hotline now on 0844 848 9747and quote OLP914
Or order online at buysubscriptions.com/oliveand quote OLP914
PER SERVING 483 KCALS | PROTEIN 18.3G | CARBS 20.1G
FAT 35.3G | SAT FAT 8.1G | FIBRE 6G | SALT 2GSTYLIN
G R
OB M
ERRETT F
OO
D S
TYLIN
G C
ARO
L TEN
NA
NT
spinach with a tiny splash of water and heat
until just wilted. Stir in the mustard and sherry
vinegar and season.
• Toast the sourdough and spread with a little
more butter. Pile the spinach on top and finish
with the eggs.
PER SERVING 372 KCALS | PROTEIN 15.7G | CARBS 26.5G
FAT 21.7G | SAT FAT 9.7G | FIBRE 4.2G | SALT 1.7G
£3.55SERVES 2 FOR
£3.35SERVES 2 FOR
76 O SEPTEMBER 2014
golden sultanas 4 tbsp
olive oil 2 tbsp
sherry vinegar 1 tbsp
shallot 1 small, finely chopped
long stem broccoli 300g
halloumi ½ block, sliced
roasted red peppers 2 from
a jar, chopped
pine nuts 2 tbsp, toasted
WEDNESDAYBroccoli salad with peppers, pine nuts and halloumi30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
• Put the sultanas in a small bowl and pour over
enough boiling water from the kettle to cover
them. Leave for 10 minutes then drain well.
Whisk the oil and vinegar with some seasoning
and stir in the shallot and drained sultanas.
• Blanch the broccoli briefly in boiling water
then rinse in cold water and drain well.
• Dry-fry the halloumi on both sides until golden.
• Toss the broccoli, sultanas with the dressing
and pepper. Serve scattered with the pine nuts
and topped with halloumi.
PER SERVING 614 KCALS | PROTEIN 23.7G | CARBS 46G
FAT 35.7G | SAT FAT 12.6G | FIBRE 7.2G | SALT 2G
olive oil
aubergine 1 small, diced
garlic 2 cloves, finely chopped
chilli flakes a large pinch
chopped tomatoes 400g tin
rigatoni 200g
basil ½ a small bunch, shredded
pecorino grated to make 2 tbsp or a little
crumbled feta
• Heat 1-2 tbsp olive oil in a large non-stick
frying pan. Add the aubergine in batches
and fry on a fairly high heat until it softens
and turns golden (you want it very tender with
no hint of bounciness). Season and tip out onto
a plate.
• Wipe out the pan, then add another tbsp oil
and cook the garlic for a minute. Add the chilli
flakes and tomatoes and season, then simmer
for 10 minutes.
• Cook the pasta. Stir the basil and aubergine
into the sauce and simmer for 5 minutes. Toss
the sauce with the drained pasta and finish
with grated cheese and more basil if you like.
PER SERVING 531 KCALS | PROTEIN 19.9G | CARBS 64.8G
FAT 19.4G | SAT FAT 1.8G | FIBRE 8.8G | SALT 0.3G
THURSDAYPasta Norma 30 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
This Sicilian pasta is traditionally topped with
ricotta salata – it can be a bit tricky to find so
I use pecorino or feta to give a salty kick.
‘Make double of the broccoli salad – it keeps really well in the fridge’£6.08
SERVES 2 FOR
£2.85SERVES 2 FOR
STYLIN
G:X
XXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXX.F
OO
D S
TYLIN
G:X
XXXXX X
XXXXXXX.
WO
RD
S X
XXXXXXXX X
XXXXXXXXX
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 77
cook everyday great value mealscook everyday
janine’s cheap eats
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 77
Pasta Norma
78 O SEPTEMBER 2014
SATURDAYDouble-cheese and mushroom calzones45 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY
ciabatta bread mix
or pizza base mix 250g
field mushrooms 3 large, sliced
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, crushed
mozzarella 1 ball, sliced
parmesan 2 tbsp of grated
rosemary a few needles, chopped
chilli flakes (optional)
• Heat the oven to 200C/fan 180C/gas 6.
Make the dough following pack instructions.
Cook the mushrooms in a little olive oil until
tender then add the garlic, season and cook
for another 3 minutes, turning up the heat to
evaporate any water.
• Divide the dough in half and roll each piece
out into a rough circle, about 25cm across.
Divide the mushrooms and mozzarella
between them heaping the mixture onto one
half. Add the parmesan, rosemary and a pinch
of chilli flakes (if using) then fold over the other
half and crimp around the edges so they look
like 2 large pasties. Dust with flour then lift
onto a baking sheet. Cook for 15-20 minutes
until they’re crisp and golden.
PER SERVING 672 KCALS | PROTEIN 34.4G | CARBS 55.6G
FAT 33.8G | SAT FAT 15.8G | FIBRE 3.9G | SALT 2.7G
‘Use roasted veg instead of the mushrooms in these calzones, if you like’
oil
onion 1, diced
garlic 1 clove, crushed
green pepper 1, diced
celery 2 sticks, diced
cooked smoked sausage (Polish kabanos
work well) 200g, sliced into chunks
dried oregano ½ tsp
dried thyme ½ tsp
ground cumin 1 tsp
hot smoked paprika ½ tsp
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
plum tomatoes 2, chopped
tomato purée 1 tbsp
chicken stock 200ml
red kidney beans 400g tin
cooked basmati rice to serve
spring onions 2, chopped to serve
FRIDAYLouisiana red beans and rice 30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
There a hundreds of different versions of this spicy southern dish – this is a very quick one.
• Heat a little oil in a pan and cook the onion
and garlic until it softens. Stir in the pepper and
celery and cook for 3-4 minutes, then add the
sausage and cook for a couple more minutes.
Add the dried herbs and spices and stir well then
tip in the red wine vinegar, tomatoes, puree and
stock. Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the
drained and rinsed beans and cook for another
10-15 minutes. Serve with rice and sprinkle over
the chopped spring onions to finish.
PER SERVING 249 KCALS | PROTEIN 12.4G | CARBS 12.9G
FAT 15.1G | SAT FAT 4.9G | FIBRE 6.1G | SALT 1.7G
£6.45
SERVES 4 FOR
£3.30SERVES 2 FOR
Double-cheese and mushroom calzones
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 79
cook everyday janine’s cheap eats
80 O SEPTEMBER 2014
cook everyday janine’s cheap eats
SUNDAYPork and sage meatballs40 MINUTES | SERVES 4 | EASY
pork mince 500g
lemon 1, zested
onion 1 large, ½ grated, ½ finely sliced
breadcrumbs a handful
sage 10 leaves, finely chopped, plus
more to serve
olive oil
garlic 1 clove, sliced
white wine a glass
chicken stock 200ml
double cream 200ml
orzo cooked to serve
• Put the pork, lemon, grated onion, sage
and breadcrumbs in a bowl. Season, then mix
together and form into meatballs (about 30).
Shopping basket
onions 2 (1 medium, 1 large)
shallot 2 small
spring onions 1 bunch
celery 2 sticks
green pepper 1
aubergine 1 small
plum tomatoes 2
long stem broccoli 300g
field mushrooms 3 large
avocado ½
peas 100g
watercress 50g bag
young spinach 200g
lemons 2
basil a small bunch
chives ¼ small bunch
sage a small bunch
rosemary a few needles
pork mince 500g
smoked streaky bacon 4 slices
cooked smoked sausage
(Polish kabanos work well) 200g
mozzarella 1 ball
parmesan 2 tbsp
halloumi ½ block
pecorino or feta
double cream 200ml
eggs 2-4
chopped tomatoes 400g tin
roasted red peppers 4 from a jar
red kidney beans 400g tin
orzo
rigatoni 200g
quinoa 50g
basmati rice to serve
ciabatta bread mix
or pizza base mix 250g
breadcrumbs a handful
sourdough 4 slices
white wine a glass
Ingredients you’ll need
Storecupboard
Recip
e co
sting
s are
bas
ed o
n th
e ex
act a
mou
nt o
f ing
redi
ents
used
. For
exa
mpl
e,12
5g o
f but
ter w
ill b
e co
sted
at h
alf t
he p
rice
of a
250
g pa
ck. O
ur co
sting
s are
alw
ays b
ased
on
free-
rang
e eg
gs a
nd h
igh-
welfa
re m
eat.
olive oil
oil
butter
garlic
mayonnaise
wholegrain
mustard
sherry vinegar
red wine
vinegar
tomato puree
chicken stock
chilli flakes
dried oregano
dried thyme
ground cumin
hot smoked
paprika
golden sultanas
pine nuts
• Heat 1 tbsp olive oil in a pan and cook the
meatballs until browned all over and cooked
through. Remove from the pan and add the
sliced onion. Cook until really soft and golden,
then add the garlic and cook for a minute or
two more. Add the wine and chicken stock and
reduce by half. Pour in the double cream and
simmer for a minute or two, then add back the
meatballs and simmer for another 5-7 minutes.
Don’t let the sauce reduce too much, you want
it the texture of single cream – add a splash of
stock or water if you need to. Serve with orzo
and sprinkled with some extra sage.
PER SERVING 544 KCALS | PROTEIN 27.5G | CARBS 8.5G
FAT 42G | SAT FAT 21.7G | FIBRE 1.4G | SALT 0.4G
£32.277 MEALS FOR
£6.69SERVES 4 FOR
AUGUST 2014 O 81
cook weekend
xxxxxxxxxxPH
OTO
GRA
PH: SA
M S
TOW
ELL
. STY
LIN
G:
TON
Y H
UTC
HIN
SO
N.
FOO
D S
TYLIN
G:
JEN
NIF
ER JO
YC
E
81 O JULY 2014
YOUR AUTUMN COLLECTION• Sloe gin layer cake
• Best-ever pork vindaloo
• 3 ways with bangers
PLUS! Thai smoked trout salad | Weeknight 5:2 recipes | Squid taglierini | Pheasant ragu French onion tart | Fish tagine | Orange and honey cake | Pumpkin pie with maple cream
NEXT ISSUEON SALE 12 September
DON’T MISS! Download our new
fully-interactive app
for iPhone/iPad for extra
recipes, videos, galleries
and more – see page 67
80SEASONAL RECIPES
EXPLORE• O's 10 favourite Sunday lunch spots around the UK• Insider food guides to Puglia, Languedoc and Reykjavik
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 81
Segreti di famiglia
advertisement feature
Bellissimo!Using Galbani mozzarella can add a simple, authentic Italian flavour to your summer dishes
PER SERVING 559 KCALS | PROTEIN 18.8G | CARBS 78.7G
FAT 16.5G | SAT FAT 2.3G | FIBRE 10.2G | SALT 2.4G
cook everydayquick fixes
FOR MORE QUICK RECIPES
lulusnotes .com
advertisement feature
A toast to traditionStep back in time with Europe’s finest wines and Port, perfected over the centuries
Go to discovertheorigin.co.uk to find out which food events Discover the Origin will be atending this season.
You can also follow @discoverorigin on Twiter and like Discover the Origin on Facebook
With traditional European
produce such as Bourgogne
and Douro Wines and Port,
it’s the regions they’re made
in and the history behind them that makes all
the difference in terms of taste. The Discover
the Origin campaign celebrates the incredible
heritage of these simple but quality products
– alongside Parma Ham and Parmigiano
Reggiano Cheese – for that reason.
Bourgogne Wines, Douro Wines and Port
have been awarded Protected Designation
of Origin status, which guarantees that they
have been made in a specific region using
age-old methods for consistent excellence.
This makes them affordable luxuries that
can be enjoyed at home, yet vividly conjure
the sun-drenched vineyards and steep-sided
terraced quintas they come from – sweeping
you away to places where traditions hold
strong and locals relax with a glass of wine
or Port in prety squares.
Portugal’s Douro Valley is a protected
UNESCO World Heritage site that’s home to
both its namesake wine and Port. To this day,
Douro Wines are only made with native grape
varieties, and some family-run quintas still
embrace the tradition of crushing grapes by
foot in large, square granite tanks called
lagars, when making Port. Bourgogne in
France, meanwhile, is one of the world’s most
famous wine regions with a history stretching
back 2,000 years. It has just 3,800 producers,
known for their intuitive but gentle cultural
practices, as they aim to give quality nutrients
back to the soil.
Take a sip of Europe’s authentic character
and history with a Bourgogne Wine paired
with this carpaccio recipe.
Discover the Origin has two hampers filled with tasty goodies to give away. To enter, email your name, phone number and the answer to ‘what country is Parma Ham made in?’ to [email protected]
Wine match A white or red Bourgogne Wine such as Rully 1er Cru
beef fillet 250gsmall capers 15g, rinsedwild rocket a handful of leavesParmigiano Reggiano 30g, shavedHORSERADISH DRESSINGextra virgin olive oil
horseradish sauce 1 tbsplemon juice 2 tspmayonnaise 1 tbsp
• Heat 1 tbsp oil in a frying pan and sear
the beef for about 4–5 minutes until browned
on all sides. Remove and leave to cool.
• Meanwhile, make the dressing by whisking
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil with the
horseradish, lemon juice and mayonnaise
in a bowl. Season generously.
• Finely slice the beef (to make it easier to
slice thinly, you can put it in the freezer for 30
minutes to firm up after searing) and arrange
on a plate so that it is slightly overlapping.
Season well, drizzle the dressing over the top,
then scatter over the capers, rocket leaves and
Parmigiano Reggiano. Serve immediately.
Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status is awarded to foods from specific geographic areas which adhere to rigorous standards. The PDO is an indication of quality and origin of traditional products created by the European Union to help consumers by informing them about the specific features of the products, and to protect their geographical appellations against imitations and usurpations.
advertisement feature
WINA LUXURY HAMPER!
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 87
cook everyday slimmer dinners
STYLIN
G: M
IKE C
UTTIN
G. FO
OD
STYLIN
G:
AN
NA
GLO
VER
Low-calorie, low-fat and 5:2
diet-friendly mealsRecipes ANNA GLOVER
Photographs ANT DUNCAN
Peanut tofu stir-fry
Prawn and avocado
Vietnamese summer rolls
Halloumi, tomato and
aubergine skewers
Grilled polenta with tomato
and olive salad
Slimmer
DINNERS
cook everyday slimmer dinners
Grilled polenta with tomato and olive salad40 MINUTES | SERVES 2 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
vegetable stock 250ml
instant polenta 100g
plum tomatoes 3, halved
olive oil
pitted black olives 25g
baby spinach a handful of leaves
red wine vinegar 1 tbsp
• Bring the stock to a simmer and pour in the polenta. Stir continuously
until thick, then season well. Spread into a small shallow baking dish
and leave to cool in the fridge for about 20 minutes to set.
• Meanwhile, heat the grill to medium. Season the tomato halves,
put them on a baking tray and grill for 10 minutes until soft and
starting to collapse.
• Heat a chargrill to very hot. Cut the polenta into wedges and
brush with 1 tsp olive oil. Grill for 2 minutes on both sides until
golden and heated through. Toss the olives and spinach leaves with
1 tsp oil and the red wine vinegar, then season. Serve with the
polenta wedges and grilled tomatoes.
PER SERVING 165 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.1G | CARBS 18.3G
Our expert suggests new wines to drink with pork chopsWords and recipe VICTORIA MOORE
My parents recently went to
a supper club organised by
a former MasterChef
contestant. They were sent
the menu of slow-cooked pork belly in advance
in order that they might take their own wine.
Obviously they consulted me, and I sent a list
of red riojas.
The feedback came in: ‘We were siting
next to a sommelier. She’d taken a white.
She thinks only white wine goes with pork.’
Expertise questioned! A difficult parent
moment: Our daughter only knows about
wine and can’t even get that right. Oh dear.
Actually, I half agree. Chardonnay – white
burgundy in particular – suits the texture and
sometimes has woodruff notes that go well
with the herbs (thyme, fennel seeds) which are
ofen rubbed into the meat. The trick is to find
a white that has some body or texture.
But, offered the choice, people ofen go for
red. With this dish, the light, slightly vegetal
notes of a French pinot noir work well. The
sof curves of a red rioja are also particularly
BARGAIN BOTTLE
Victoria Moore
writes for The
Telegraph and is
the author of
How to Drink
(Granta, £12.99)
potatoes and slice finely (it’s much quicker
to use a mandolin if you have one). Now put
a messy couple of layers of potato slices in an
ovenproof dish, season, sprinkle over some
lemon thyme (if using) and caramelised onions.
Continue layering until all the ingredients are
used up. Pour the stock into the dish until it comes
about two thirds of the way up the potatoes. Dot
the top with the remaining butter and cook for
about 90 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft
in the middle and crisp and brown on top.
• Towards the end of the cooking time, griddle
the chops for 5 minutes on both sides, or until
cooked through. Serve with the potatoes.
PER SERVING 571 KCALS | PROTEIN 40.5G | CARBS 37.9G
FAT 27.4G | SAT FAT 13.4G | FIBRE 5.3G | SALT 0.8G
NEXT MONTH
ON SALE 12 SEPTEMBER
Potato curry
good with the caramelised onions. An oaked
white will pick up the sofness of the onions;
if you add lemon thyme then a vermentino
or verdicchio will accentuate the herbal lif.
Victoria’s
Spread calm.Soothes and protects skin with eczema.
Now available off the shelf.
diprobase.co.uk
Always read the label. Code: DERM-1119589-0000. Date of preparation: May 2014.
1
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 91
Chefs are great at making everyday ingredients special and have inspired us to create these easy, imaginative dishesRecipes & words SARAH COOK Photographs STUART OVENDEN
STY
LIN
G: REBEC
CA
NEW
PORT
. FO
OD
STY
LIN
G:
JAN
INE R
ATC
LIFF
E
Inspired by
PANGEA STREET This new street food stall in Brixton market offers a daily-changing menu of globally
inspired salads. While sweetcorn is at its peak, we’ll be going for the Peruvian – crisp corn kernels with black beans, red peppers, crumbled feta and plenty of fresh coriander. pangeastreet.co.uk
the remaining chilli, vinegar and coriander stalks
in a salad bowl. Tip in the beans, peppers,
spring onions and feta and toss.
sweetcorn3ways with
• Lift the corn
from the oven
and cool for a
minute while you
divide the lettuce
between 4 plates. Stir
most of the coriander
leaves into the bean salad,
and divide this between the
leaves. Using a large knife, put
each cob on end and slice away
the kernels. Pile these on top of the
salads, scatter with reserved coriander
leaves and serve.
PER SERVING 303 KCALS | PROTEIN 14.3G | CARBS 25.8G
FAT 14.4G | SAT FAT 5.5G | FIBRE 6.7 G | SALT 1.2G
Thai corn cakes with pickled cucumbers30 MINUTES | SERVES 4 AS A STARTER | EASY
92 O SEPTEMBER 2014
corn cobs 3 large, husks removed
and kernels cut from cobs
lemongrass 1 stalk, tough outer leaf
discarded and the rest roughly chopped
ginger grated to make 1 tbsp
green Thai curry paste 1-2 tbsp
egg 1
rice flour 200g
milk 3 tbsp
kaffir lime leaves 5, finely shredded
oil for frying
sweet chilli sauce to serve
PICKLED CUCUMBER
cucumber 1/3
red onion ½, diced
rice wine vinegar 2 tbsp
caster sugar 2 tsp
• Tip half of the corn into a food processor
with the lemongrass, ginger, curry paste,
egg, rice flour and milk. Pulse to a paste, then
scrape into a bowl and stir in the remaining
corn and lime leaves and season.
• For the pickled cucumbers, halve the
cucumber lengthways and scrape out the
seeds using a teaspoon. Slice into half moons
and mix with the onion, vinegar and sugar.
Set aside for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally,
before serving.
• To fry the fritters, heat 2cm oil in a big wok
or deep frying pan. Spoon in tbsps of fritter
batter and sizzle for about 2 minutes on each
side until golden, crisp and cooked through.
Pile onto paper-towel lined trays and keep
warm in a low oven while you fry the rest.
Serve hot with bowls of sweet chilli sauce
and the pickled cucumber.
PER SERVING 415 KCALS | PROTEIN 8.8G | CARBS
58.5G | FAT 15.4G | SAT FAT 1.9G | FIBRE 3.9G
SALT 0.3G
2Inspired by
TIIEN THAI Spicy corn cakes are a Thai restaurant staple, but the Tord man khao phod at this Bournemouth favourite are
particularly good. Packed with fresh corn kernels, they come with a pile of ajard – a fresh pickled cucumber salsa. tiienthairestaurant.co.uk
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 93
3cook everyday
3 waysInspired by
Q GRILL While the sun’s still shining, Selfridges London rooftop has been transformed with a pop-up restaurant from the
Q grill. The spiced creamed corn side dish is cooked with fresh red chilli to cut through the richness, great with barbecued ribs and chicken. q-grill.co.uk/on-the-roof-with-q
Creamed corn with chilli and smoky paprika40 MINUTES | SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE | EASY
corn cobs 4 large, husks removed
and kernels cut from cobs
onions 2, finely chopped
garlic 1 clove, crushed
red chilli 1, seeded and finely chopped
butter 25g
rapeseed oil
smoked paprika ½ tsp
double cream 250ml
coriander to serve
• Put the corn kernels, onions, garlic
and chilli in a pan (with a lid), with
the butter and 1 tbspoil and cook over
a very low heat for about 10 minutes,
or until the onion is translucent and
the corn is soft, but not browning. Stir
in the paprika for a minute to toast.
• Add in the cream with 200ml water,
then bring to a gentle simmer before
covering and cooking for 10 minutes.
Lift off the lid and, using a stick blender,
blitz roughly half of the corn in the pan.
Bubble gently without the lid for roughly
another 10 minutes, or until the corn is
thick and creamy. Season well, particularly
with salt and scatter with coriander to serve.
PER SERVING 356 KCALS | PROTEIN 4.2G | CARBS 17.9G
FAT 29.2G | SAT FAT 16.4G | FIBRE 2.6G | SALT 0.5G
advertisement feature
Great Scot! Let Campbells deliver Scotland’s finest fresh quality meat, fish and deli goods to your door
rib eye or sirloin steaks 2 x 225gsunflower oil 2 tbspunsalted butter 25gthyme a spriggarlic 1 clove, crushedwatercress a handful, to servechips to serve
• Season the steaks well. Put a large, heavy
frying pan on a high heat. When hot, add the
sunflower oil to the pan – when it starts to
smoke add the steaks, resisting the temptation
to move them around.
• After 2-3 minutes of cooking, turn them
over and cook on the other side for another
2-3 minutes. Add the butter, thyme and garlic
and allow the butter to foam. If there are fatty
edges, use tongs to hold each steak on its
side and press the fatty edge into the pan
to colour.
• Once cooked, remove the steaks from
the pan and put on a metal tray in a warm
place to rest for 4-5 minutes. Serve on
warm plates with chips and watercress.
A good butcher that offers only the
best produce, along with years
of experience and knowledge,
can be hard to find. That’s the
beauty of Scotish family-run butchers,
Campbells. You get all that with the added
convenience of having your goods delivered.
Over the last 100 years, Campbells has
earned a reputation for supplying the freshest
meat, fish and delicatessen goods to Scotland’s
Michelin-star hotels and restaurants. Top chef
Nick Nairn says Campbells beef is some of ‘the
best’ he’s ever had due to its ‘excellent quality,
delicious taste and superb consistency’. That’s
no surprise, as it’s dry-aged for at least 21 days
for the most tender, prime-quality meat possible.
Campbells offers the same high quality to its
household buyers via campbellsmeat.com. It
guarantees its produce is 100% fresh – never
frozen and, proud of its Scotish heritage, it
offers Scotch Lamb and specially-selected
pork, plus its own beef brand Campbells Gold,
which uses Quality Meat Scotland certified
Scotch Beef. From farm to fork, every product
For more information and to order, visit campbellsmeat.com or call 0844 573 8456
can be traced and each order is butchered
individually in the traditional way to ensure
quality and taste consistency each time.
What’s more, Campbells is the exclusive
Scotish stockist of Mey Selections Beef and
Lamb (established in 2005 by Prince Charles
to foster closer connections between farmers,
fine food producers and consumers in the
Highlands), which was served at William and
Kate’s wedding reception.
So visit campbellsmeat.com now. Orders
placed before noon enjoy next-day delivery
(deliveries are open Tue-Sat), and it’s free for
those over £50 (excluding Saturdays).
O readers can enjoy 10% off their first order, plus two free 6oz Scotch beef sirloin steaks when they spend over £30. Simply use the code OLIVE10 at checkout.
FREEREADER OFFER!
POSTCARD FROM DUBLIN | SAN SEBASTIÁN WITH A MASTERCHEFPRO VS PUNTER AT RIVEA LONDON | WHERE TO EAT OUT IN BATH
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 95
Rome's new-found appetite for street food, on the trail of salt cod fritters in Rio, and why bacon and eggs are taking Paris by storm, Plus, 10 of the most original dishes on Britain’s menus
ENJOY
exploreEAT
PHO
TOG
RAPH
Y: JU
STI
N F
OU
LKES/
LON
ELY
PLA
NET
TRAVELL
ER
Does an average diner reach the same
conclusions about restaurants as a food
pro, who may get special treatment if recognised?*
Tom Parker-Bowles and O reader Catherine Wallen
review Rivea
The placeA newcomer to Alain Ducasse’s stellar portfolio,
occupying the basement of the Bulgari Hotel in
Knightsbridge, Rivea offers a luxurious London
take on Provençal cuisine, as devised by chef
Damien Leroux, who has been working for
Ducasse for 10 years in the south of France. His
menu showcases seasonal vegetables, served
with seafood and pasta dishes. The interior was
designed by Italians Antonio Citterio and Patricia
Viel. Bulgari Hotel, 171 Knightsbridge, London
SW7, rivealondon.com
PRO
PUNTER
versus
SRA RATING 5/10 thesra.orgRivea’s menu features a good deal of
British produce, including much of the
seafood and all of the lamb and beef.
There’s a strong emphasis on healthy eating, with
many vegetarian dishes. Much of the imported
produce is air freighted – something Rivea should
look to review, likewise the coffee, tea and sugar,
none of which is fairly traded.
The punterCatherine Wallen is a
Londoner who eats out
at least once a week.
She is keen on Asian
food, and rates the set
lunch at Le Gavroche as
her best ever dining
out experience.
96 O SEPTEMBER 2014
The proTom Parker-Bowles is a TV
presenter and food writer.
He is a judge on ITV1’s Food
Glorious Food, and his
cookbook, Let’s Eat:
Recipes from my
Kitchen Notebook
(Pavilion, £25), is
on sale now.
FOOD 9/10ATMOSPHERE 8/10
SERVICE 10/10 CATHERINE’S TOTAL: 27/30
WANT TO REVIEW A RESTAURANT?
For a chance to be O’s next punter, join our reader panel at magazineinsiders.com
frequent visits – I’d go for special occasions. I’m
tempted by the set lunch deal (£35 for two
starters, a main, a dessert, plus water and
coffee), which seems terrific value.
Bill was £162 for two, including service
The pro says...
As you’d expect from anywhere bearing
Ducasse’s name, service is slick, without
being smug. Waiters know their way around
the menu and seem to have actually tried
each and every dish. No irritating upselling
here, just well-drilled confidence. When they
smile, which is frequently, you actually believe
they’re enjoying their job. *I was recognised.
Rivea promises the sun-soaked flavours of the
French Riviera, and prety much delivers
them. There’s nothing fussy about the menu,
just absolute belief in the quality of its
ingredients. Sea bass carpaccio, £11,
shimmers with freshness, as does the bream,
£8. Beautifully cooked prawns come in a
delicate, golden lobster jelly, £11. Raw baby
carrots, endive and tomato, £8, seem to have
skipped straight out of a Provençal market,
while rib and saddle of lamb, £17, is just old
enough to know a thing or two about flavour.
These dishes would please even the pickiest
of Provençal (and northwestern Italian)
palates. A magnificent plate of charcuterie,
£18, comes draped with tissue-paper-thin
slices of culatello that seduces the tastebuds,
and even bresaola and San Daniele ham, ofen
so dull, impress. Ducasse spent weeks in the
kitchen ensuring everything was just-so before
leaving it in the hands of chef Damien Leroux.
Rivea is proof of a simple philosophy: find the
best seasonal ingredients and do as litle as
possible to them. Amen to that.
It’s prety hard to fault the food. The only slight
downside is the room. It makes the best of
a basement space in the Bulgari Hotel, but
I found myself craving some natural light to
flood onto my well-fed face. I did miss a view,
and the room could do with a litle more buzz.
Still, I’ll be back. Stunning ingredients,
beautifully cooked. Rivea rocks.
Bill was £155 for two, including service
THE SERVICE THE SERVICE
THE FOOD
THE FOOD
THE BOTTOM LINE
THE BOTTOM LINE
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 97
explorepro vs punter
98 O SEPTEMBER 2014
The ideas and effort behind these show-stopping dishes make it worth spending your hard-earned cash in
a restaurant: here are 10 to add to your hit list Words ROSIE BIRKETT
98 O SEPTEMBER 2014
DON’Ttry this at home
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 99
ExploreXXXXXXXXXX
2Coconut & mango soufflé with Malibu
Paul Blackman, Le Talbooth, Colchester
‘We sell soufflés like they’re going out of
fashion,’ says Paul Blackman, Le Talbooth’s
pastry chef for the past seven years. His
French-Caribbean dessert of Malibu-spiked
coconut soufflé with fresh mango and mango
jelly is a bestseller at the restaurant. ‘The
flavours really harmonise,’ he says. ‘The
soufflé is made with coconut milk and a
splash of Malibu, and there is some desiccated
coconut at the botom for a bit of crunch. The
mango jelly is made with agar agar, a seaweed
gelling agent that retains its structure even
when heated, so it doesn’t just melt.’
Blackman was inspired by the flavours
of his Barbadian roots. ‘I was the first of
my siblings to be born in the UK, and when
I was growing up you couldn’t get mangoes
and coconuts in this country. When my
family and friends went home they’d bring
these fruits back and we’d fight over them
because they were a real delicacy, so now
I like to use them at work as much as I can.’
Although many of us may dismiss Malibu
as a sickly reminder of our student days,
Blackman taps into the coconut liqueur’s
sweetness for his dish. ‘My desserts are not
too heavy on sugar, so I just use a splash,
and the whole rum-liqueur thing works
with those Caribbean notes.’
milsomhotels.com/letalbooth
An iconic dish I wish
I’d come up with
‘Gary Rhodes’ Jaffa cake pudding,
made with Seville oranges.’
1Omakase sashimi
Yasuhiro Mineno, Yashin, Ocean House
Yashin Ocean House
in London’s South
Kensington takes
an adventurous
approach to Japanese seafood. Its entirely
fish and seafood-based menu explores a
‘head to tail’ ethos, utilising every aspect
of the fish, from the roe, to the flesh and
skin. At the restaurant, classic Japanese
flavours and techniques are given a modern,
European interpretation by ex-Nobu chef
Yasuhiro Mineno and sous Daniele Codini,
formerly of the Fat Duck.
As such, Mineno’s signature dish of
omakase sashimi comes readily and
intricately seasoned by him, breaking
from the Japanese ritual whereby diners
dip fish in soy sauce themselves. ‘Our
sashimi is based on the concept “without
soy sauce”,’ he explains. ‘We apply just
the right amount of a particular pre-
seasoning to the fish, using the citrus
fruit yuzu, yuzugosho (a citrus pepper),
a Japanese yuzu chilli, the Japanese plum
ume, and sansho Japanese green pepper.
“Omakase” means “chef’s daily choice”,
which allows us to use wild produce such
as seabass and mackerel from Cornwall,
and red sea bream and red snapper from
France, making our sashimi really special.’
Every fish in the sashimi selection is
served with a different modern topping
that complements and amplifies its natural
flavour, so you might find a truffle and
ponzu jelly, a tosazu (bonito-flavoured rice
vinegar dressing) gel, and more. The dish
is served spectacularly, with dry ice placed
at the botom of the glass plate, and then
a yuzu-flavoured water poured over to release
a cloud of the wonderfully aromatic Japanese
citrus while you enjoy your sashimi.
yashinocean.com
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Mark Hix’s Swainson House Farm roast
chicken at Tramshed. It is a very simple
dish, but it’s not as easy as it looks.’
explore
100 O SEPTEMBER 2014
3Black
olive
and banana
praline ice
cream with
pistachio
cake
Steve Drake, Drake’s, Ripley
An excitingly modern approach and
innovative flavour combinations underpin
Steve Drake’s Michelin-starred cooking
at Drake’s in the small village of Ripley,
Surrey. The chef has worked with the
avant-garde French chef Marc Veyrat, and
takes much of his inspiration when devising
dishes from reading widely around cooking.
‘I tend to read an awful lot,’ he says, ‘And
I noticed that a lot of chefs were trying a
parsley and banana combination so, in my
mind, it was natural to match banana with
another, different, earthy flavour.
‘The original idea stemmed from when
I was experimenting with pralines and
I tried a number of different nut and sugar
combinations, adding salt to taste. Then it
struck me that an olive praline might work…
wow! This was a really good base idea, but
I had to find a way of incorporating it into
a recipe.’
Combining the olive praline with banana
and working it into an ice cream was Steve’s
solution. ‘Afer considerable experimentation
over a few months, the result was a banana
and black olive ice cream, which we now
serve with a pistachio cake. I think this is
a completely original idea, and it’s one I’m
particularly proud of because, while it might
seem like a strange pairing, the flavours
really work together.’
drakesrestaurant.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Lobster with white port and ginger, created
by Michel Roux. What a dish! It has
incredible flavours and is truly inspirational.’
4Sole
VŽronique
André Garret, at Cliveden, Berkshire
‘There’s continual invention in cheffing, but
sometimes it’s nice to bring back forgoten
things and reinvent them,’ says Garrat,
whose signature dish of sole Véronique is
a modern update of a classic dish by the
legendary French chef Auguste Escoffier.
‘It’s one of those dishes that is truly iconic.
It’s lovely to hark back to what really works,
to something fundamental. You’ve still got
the flavours of the original dish – those
combinations and textures are timeless and
always there – but I’ve reinvented them in
a way that’s not so heavy or old-fashioned.’
The textbook version is a whole Dover sole
poached in a white wine bouillon that is then
used to make a very rich beurre blanc, served
over the fish with peeled grapes. In Garret’s
version, the fish is taken off the bone and rolled
into a boudin, poached in a waterbath and
served with a beurre blanc made with verjus.
‘I use verjus rather than wine, because it’s
more acidic, but it still gives that essence of the
original sauce. Rather than just peeling our
‘While it might seem like a strange pairing, the flavours really work together’
grapes, we bring them halfway to
raisins, intensifying their flavour.
Then I add some pine nuts that
have been cooked in a stock syrup
and deep fried for a nice crunch’.
clivedenhouse.co.uk/restaurant/andre-garret
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Guy Savoy’s artichoke and black truffle soup
– it’s unbelievable.’
FOR A VIDEO RECIPE
OF SOLE VÉRONIQUE
GET THE APP!See page 67
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 101
exploresignature dishes
5Baked skyr
with skyr ice cream and seasonal fruit
Agnar Sverrisson, Texture, London W1
‘I remember my mum making me skyr
(similar to strained yoghurt) for breakfast,
stirred with sugar and served with lots of
blueberries,’ says Agnar Sverrisson. ‘It’s been
a part of Icelandic food culture for thousands
of years, made by cooking skimmed milk for
about two days at a very low temperature so it
turns into a thick paste. It’s got very litle fat in
it, but you wouldn’t know because it’s so thick.’
At Texture, Sverrisson mixes skyr with
sugar, lemon juice and milk, and bakes it
sofly for about an hour to create a warm, set-
custard-style dessert. He serves it with
a sharp ice cream also made of skyr and,
depending on season, strawberries,
raspberries or blueberries. ‘Skyr is
traditionally a breakfast dish – a cross
between sof cheese and yoghurt, and you
have to mix it with sugar, otherwise it can
be biter. We’ve taken it to another level in
this dessert; you’d never usually find it in
an ice cream.’ texture-restaurant.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘I wish I could have invented gravadlax.
Otherwise it would be Raymond Blanc’s
confit salmon cooked in olive oil with lemon.’
6Rabbit, marmalade, carrots & soil
Tom van Zeller, Van Zeller, Harrogate
‘I’ll admit, it’s a bit of a play on the whole
Bugs Bunny thing,’ says Tom Van Zeller
of his mischievously named signature dish.
Though carrot may seem a rather prosaic
ingredient, in Van Zeller’s hands, it’s
anything but. ‘Carrot is a great
accompaniment and wonderfully vibrant,
especially if more than one variety is used.
We use a heritage mix, giving a good array
of colours, shapes and sizes: some we cook,
some we pickle and some we shave and
serve raw.’
To link the two ingredients together, Van
Zeller makes a ‘soil’ by blending a biscuit
base with mushroom powder. ‘The soil
connects the carrots to the rabbit,’ he says.
‘It’s like a litle veg garden growing from
a plate: carrots, rabbits and soil, it all works
together nicely. We use the rabbit loin, and
also make a litle parfait from the liver and
a consommé from the legs, which we turn
into a jelly for the parfait. We very gently
poach the loin in a marinade with star anise,
pepper and carrot oil, which we make by
cooking carrots slowly in oil.’ The chef also
uses baby carrots and nasturtiums from his
own allotment to garnish the dish. ‘It’s a
fabulous, local, homegrown, organic,
free-range dish.’ vanzellerrestaurants.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Pierre Koffmann’s hare à la royale.
I love game.’
‘It’s been on the menu for three years and it’s our biggest-selling dish by far’
‘I’m interested in the anthropology of cooking
– taking the best bits from different food
cultures,’ says Kenneth Culhane, The
Dysart’s head chef. Culhane won the Roux
Scholarship in 2010, which has led to
extensive travel opportunities. ‘Every two
years the Roux Scholars meet up and make
a trip to visit two- and three-Michelin-starred
restaurants for inspiration,’ he explains.
‘We went to Japan last year, and the food blew
me away. I wanted to create a simple dish
drawing on ideas from Japan’s kaiseki
cooking, which represents a moment or
season, through a multi-course tasting menu.’
Culhane’s charred mackerel with kombu-
braised daikon, ginger and champagne taps
into this sense of transience. The charring
of the mackerel nods to the use of charcoal
grills in a lot of Japanese cooking, while
daikon is also a staple. ‘We cook it with
kombu (edible kelp) and bonito (a mackerel-
like fish) in a base stock, dashi, which gives
a nice freshness. It has an acidity and
balance that really gets you going, so it’s
a great starter.’ thedysartpetersham.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘I worked for the Japanese chef Tetsuya
Wakuda in Sydney, and his Tasmanian ocean
trout confit with trout eggs, kombu and fennel
is one of the best dishes I’ve eaten.’
8Charred mackerel, kombu braised
daikon, ginger and champagne
Kenneth Culhane, The Dysart, Petersham
7Crab
cannelloni Mark Greenaway, Restaurant Mark Greenaway, Edinburgh
Scotish chef Mark Greenaway’s signature
dish was waiting for him in a cupboard. ‘The
original idea came from the glass it’s served
in,’ he says. ‘I found these very unusual,
two-part glasses siting in a cupboard at the
restaurant. They are martini chillers - you
put ice in the botom and your martini in
the top, and it keeps the martini cold.
‘At the same time, I got the brief through
from Great British Menu, which was all about
being innovative and pushing boundaries, so
when I found the glasses I thought it would
be cool to fill it with a two-part dish. Then my
fishmonger came in with some really great
crab, so I tried to develop a dish along those
lines. It’s been on the menu for three years
and it’s our biggest-selling dish by far.’
The crab cannelloni comes in two layers.
On the botom is a smoked cauliflower
custard topped with freshly picked crabmeat
with home-made lemon caviar. Greenaway
fills the botom glass with an applewood
smoke, encasing it with the top glass, which
holds baby gem letuce and the crab
cannelloni: a crab mayonnaise coated in a herb
buter – there’s actually no pasta involved.
‘I was trying to do a very upmarket version
of a crab salad. Crab goes well with
cauliflower because cauliflower itself
is quite sweet, and the lemon cuts through
the fatiness of the cauliflower custard and
the richness of the crab, so it all works in
harmony together.’ markgreenaway.com
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Bret Graham’s brown sugar tart with stem
ginger ice cream at the Ledbury. The
balance of the whole dish is outstanding.’
102 O SEPTEMBER 2014
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 103
ExploreXXXXXXXXXX
10Roasted venison with heritage carrots and beetroot
Mat Worswick, Warehouse Restaurant, Southport
‘There’s a lot of snobbery in food, and I don’t
think it’s warranted,’ says Mat Worswick,
the 26-year-old chef at Warehouse Restaurant
in Southport. ‘I’d rather go to a brasserie and
have a great meal than eat a mediocre one
in a fine dining restaurant.’ He describes the
offering at Warehouse as ‘ambitious food at
brasserie prices. We do really bold food, quite
simple dishes centred on local British flavours
9Beef fillet
(ashed)
Adam Handling, Caxton Grill, London SW1
Still just 25 years old, Adam Handling has
spent years tinkering with a recipe he had
for beef cooked in ash, but it wasn’t until
he visited Massimo Botura’s Osteria
Francescana in Modena, Italy, that the
pieces really fell into place. ‘I was there
filming for MasterChef, and I asked [Botura]
about it. I had been making the ash with
leeks and onions, but I was finding it grainy.
He said, “Start using sof herbs – they’re
mostly water, so they’ll make for a much
smoother ash”.’
‘It’s much more time-consuming and costs
a lot more, but I now use mint, parsley and
tarragon to make the ash, and the flavour is
just phenomenal. We make the ash, powder
it, put it through a tea strainer, then take
a 45-day-aged beef fillet, dust it in the ash
and cook it sous vide.’
Because of the seasonally driven nature
of his cooking, while the key part of the dish
– the beef cooked in ash – remains the same,
the garnish changes over time. ‘In winter it’s
served with foie gras and truffles with olive
oil purée, and in spring it’s wild garlic,
barley, pickled micro girolles and red
watercress.’ caxtongrill.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘Beef Wellington – it’s so simple, so classical.
I’d happily eat it every day.’
– stuff people can really appreciate and relate
to. We’re a neighbourhood restaurant, and
people like a proper northern portion here.’
That doesn’t stop Worswick’s food being
stylish, on-trend and highly technical, though,
as demonstrated by his signature dish –
heritage carrots with venison. ‘We use heritage
purple, orange and white carrots, baked in a
salt dough with cumin seeds so that they retain
all their flavour, and we also make a carrot
purée with roasted cumin seeds.’
Once baked, the carrots are pan-roasted
with buter, garlic and thyme before being
served with the pan-roasted venison loin and
a faggot of minced venison and pork fat that’s
been wrapped in crépinete (pork caul) and
fried. Beetroot purée and a crunchy, aromatic
juniper berry garnish the dish, along with
bright green carrot tops. ‘It’s an autumnal
dish, and it’s been on the menu for a year
and a half. The customers love it.’
warehouserestaurant.co.uk
An iconic dish I wish I’d come up with
‘I worked with David Everit-Mathias at
Le Champignon Sauvage, and his bergamot
orange parfait with liquorice cream is perfect.’
exploresignature dishes
104 O SEPTEMBER 2014
BRUNCH IN
MANHATTAN
While it’s ofen overlooked in favour of Manhatan’s trendier districts
(Lower Eastside and Meatpacking), Midtown is one of the best places
in the Big Apple to track down that definitive NYC meal – brunch.
The Peacock at the William Hotel (thepeacocknyc.com) is one
of the hotest spots for brunch this year. Much of the hype is down
to its House Blend burger ($20). A paty made up of New York strip
steak combined with skirt, short rib and chuck beef, this meaty
monster is topped with smoked bacon, Brooklyn brine pickles,
cheddar, red onion, letuce and burger sauce, and served with
triple-cooked chips. Also on the brunch menu is eggs Benedict with
crumpet, bacon, spinach and hollandaise ($15) and scotch pancakes
with caramel maple apples and cinnamon cream ($14), right.
For many New Yorkers, nothing beats a Mexican breakfast, and
British expat chef April Bloomfield's Salvation Taco (salvationtaco.
com), far right, just down the road in Murray Hill, serves a fine
selection of Mexican-inspired brunch dishes. These include
a house-smoked tasso (Louisiana ham) and egg burrito ($10) and
fried fish tacos with Mayan mayo and pickled red onions ($17).
You can always count on America/Korean chef David Chang to
come up with something different, and at his Midtown Momofuku
restaurant Ma Peche (momofuku.com/new-york/ma-peche), an
exciting new brunch menu is based around dim sum. Its rotating
selection of plates includes the likes of cod friters ($8) and chicken
and waffles ($18).
But for the classic midtown Manhatan brunch experience, hold
out until October, when Midtown’s glamorous Rainbow Room
(rainbowroom. com) reopens in the Rockefeller Center. The main
atraction will be a weekly Sunday brunch. Menu items are yet to
be confirmed, but expect elegant, modern interpretations of classic
American dishes.
HOW TO DO IT Return flights
from Gatwick to JFK start from
around £450 (norwegian.com).
Double rooms at Pod 39 cost from
$225 (thepodhotel.com).
CLASSIC CITIES NEW WAYSFrom street food in Rome to craft beer in Copenhagen, discover new ways to enjoy some of the world's foodie cities
Bitesize breaks
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 105
explore rediscovered classics
If you've been inspired by MasterChef winner Ash
Mair's (inset lef) menus at the new London outpost
of Bilbao Berria (bilbaoberria.co.uk) – you can now
explore the region with him, first-hand, on a new
MasterChef Travel tour, taking place next month.
Ash's Basque-cuisine-led menu won the 2011
competition, and on this six-day group tour,
including two days accompanied by him in culinary capital, San
Sebastián, he will reveal his favourite ingredients, food markets,
hidden restaurants and tapas bars. The rest of the trip leads you on
San Sebastián is famous
for pintxos, right
SAN SEBASTIÁN WITH A MASTERCHEFa trail of discovery through the Basque countryside and kitchens
with expert local guides. Sign up and you can delve into its cider
cellars, enjoy pintxos tastings and follow a cooking demo with
lunch at a San Sebastián gastronomic society.
HOW TO DO IT From £1,895 per person, all-inclusive
(masterchefravel.co.uk).
Demand for more affordable dining options has brought delicious
changes to the city’s food scene, not least a growing number of venues
providing high-quality street food. At Trapizzino (trapizzino.it), which
opened in Testaccio in May, thick and spongy pizza corners are
toasted, sliced open and filled with spoonfuls of hearty Roman dishes
like oxtail stew, braised beef, aubergine parmigiana and meatballs
(from €3.50). In April, beloved local chef Arcangelo Dandini launched
Supplizio (supplizio.net) in the Centro Storico. Here, in a space that
resembles a Renaissance lounge, he serves supplì (fried rice balls),
crochete (potato croquetes) and crema frita (fried pastry cream) from
around €3 – a fraction of their cost at his restaurant, L’Arcangelo.
A short stroll away, Forno Campo de’ Fiori (fornocampodefiori.com)
makes a supremely seasonal sandwich, available only from August to
early October, called pizza con prosciuto e fichi – flatbread filled with
ripe figs and sliced prosciuto, or head to historic bakery Antico Forno
Roscioli (Via dei Chiavari 34), where pizza con la mortazza
(mortadella-filled flatbread) is an inexpensive sandwich served
year-round.
Across the river in Prati, porcheta (deboned roast pork) sandwiches,
are the specialty at Birra e Porcheta (Via Ciro Menoti 32) and the
pizza con la porcheta (roast pork filled flatbread) from Panificio Bonci
(Via Trionfale 36) has to be the city’s most satisfying street-food bite.
HOW TO DO IT Return flights to Rome Ciampino from a range of UK
airports start from around £45 (Ryanair.com). Double rooms
at B&B Cristiana cost from €80 (bbcristiana.com).
STREET FOOD IN ROME
WO
RD
S:
RO
SIE
BIR
KETT
, SA
RA
H B
ARRELL
, KATI
E P
ARLA
.
106 O SEPTEMBER 2014
explore rediscovered classics
CRAFT BEER IN
COPENHAGEN
Ten years ago, Mikkel Borg Bjergsø was a Danish schoolteacher and
home brewer. Today, he runs, arguably, the world’s most creative
small brewery, Mikkeller, and exports to 40 countries. Whether
it’s barrel-aging beers, adding exotic fruits to them or brewing for
high-end restaurants like Noma, the world’s beer connoisseurs follow
where Mikkel leads.
To try them out, head to one of his influential Copenhagen bars.
Opened in 2010, the original Mikkeller Bar (Viktoriagade 8BC,
mikkeller.dk) is crisp and quirky in its design, in a city where pubs
have traditionally been dingy, macho spaces. ‘Hardly any customers
come to get drunk,’ says Mikkel. ‘It’s about trying something new
and talking about beer.’ Naturally, Mikkeller has become a pilgrimage
for fanatics keen to try its five, super-fresh house beers or legendary
brews such as the Beer Geek Breakfast, made with ground coffee.
A newer cocktail bar Mikropolis (Vendersgade 22) and Mikkeller
& Friends (Stefansgade 35), which has an impressive 40 beers on
tap, are less touristy. Mikkel also has a restaurant called Øl & Brød
(ologbrod.dk), which majors on beer-paired open-faced smørrebrød
sandwiches, made on thick rye bread – and he’s set to launch a brew
pub, Warpigs later this year (Flæsketorvet 25-37).
Meanwhile, despite not owning a brewery (his recipes are executed
by third-parties, mainly de Proef Brouwerij in Belgium), Mikkel
continues to produce amazing beers at a bewildering rate. As well
as spontaneously fermented beers, he is very excited about the
low- and no-alcohol beers he is working on: ‘Beer you could drink
for breakfast and when you go running? That would be perfect.’
HOW TO DO IT Return flights
from a range of UK airports to
Copenhagen cost from £51
(easyJet.com). Double rooms
at Copenhagen Marriot cost
from £117 (marriot.co.uk).
Le Bal Café
British food, so long disdained, is big news in Paris’s coolest quarters.
Some venues were launched by Brits, like the pioneering Rose
Bakery, an organic café in the 9th arrondissement celebrated for its
carrot cake, €5.50 (46 Rue des Martyrs). Others are French-owned,
such as Beef Club in the 2nd (eccbeefclub.com), where there’s a
Bordeaux-heavy wine list to do justice to a burger with red Leicester
and ogleshield (€23), or entrecôte (€36) raised in Yorkshire by Tim
Wilson from Yorkshire's Ginger Pig.
Frenchie To Go (frenchietogo.com) is a humble takeaway opposite
the high-end neo-bistro Frenchie. It atracts a largely Parisian
clientèle who visit for the scones (served with kumquat jam, €6).
The Sunken Chip (thesunkenchip.com), appropriately located at 39
Rue des Vinaigriers, is clad in white tiles and formica and is
uncannily faithful to the classic fish-and-chip shop, right down to
Sarson’s vinegar, mushy peas and Kate-and-Wills mugs for your
English breakfast tea (fish and chips, €14).
At Le Bal Café (le-bal.fr), a fashionable spot near the Place de Clichy,
are Anna Tratles (formerly at London’s St John restaurant), and
half-English Alice Quillet, who share a love of pies, offal and pickled
walnuts. ‘We wanted to bring something new to Paris,’ says Anna,
who puts on occasional weekend pop-ups with visiting English chefs,
including Lee Tiernan, formally of St John Bread and Wine, and Pit
Cue's Tommy Adams. You’ll find excellent kedgeree (€13), and
bacon and eggs (€12), alongside Luscombe Farm ginger beer, and
proper tea from a Brown Bety teapot. Crucially, though, all the
produce is French (that would be a sacrilege too far), and the
sourdough bread is from Poujauran, one of the most revered
bakeries in Paris.
HOW TO DO IT Return London-Paris fares on Eurostar from £69
(Eurostar.com). Double rooms at chic guesthouse Eliel cost from
€170, B&B (eliel.fr).
ANGLO DINING
IN PARIS
WO
RDS:
TON
Y N
AYLO
R, S
OPH
IE D
EN
NIN
G.
PHO
TOG
RAPH
S P
REVIO
US P
AG
ES:
DA
N H
ALL
MA
N/
LON
ELY
PLA
NET
TRAVELL
ER,
MA
RK R
EA
D/
LON
ELY
PLA
NET
TRAVELL
ER,
JU
STI
N F
OU
LKES/
LON
ELY
PLA
NET
TRAVELL
ER.
PH
OTO
GRA
PHS T
HIS
PA
GE:
TRAVEL
PIX
CO
LLEC
TIO
N/
AW
L-IM
AG
EW
S.
MIN
G T
AN
G-E
VAN
S/
LON
ELY
PLA
NET
TRAVELL
ER
FOR MORE MIKKELLER
PHOTOGRAPHS, GET THE APP!
See page 67
MA
IN P
HO
TOG
RA
PH: TR
AVEL
PIX C
OLL
EC
TIO
N,
AW
L-IM
AG
ES
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 107
cook weekend
xxxxxxxxxx
1 Best for coffee Head to Colonna &
Small’s for a serious espresso. The
brews, all double shots (£2.40), change
weekly, there are tasting notes for each one
and the in-house baristas are all experts.
(6 Chapel Row, colonnaandsmalls.co.uk)
2Top-notch produce Visit Bath
Farmers’ Market – the first
of its kind in the UK. On Saturdays
(9am-1.30pm) you can pick up a wedge of
Westcombe Dairy’s tangy Somerset Cheddar
(£15/1kg) or try a pint of Dick Willows’
proper West Country cider (£3). (Green
Park Station, bathfarmersmarket.co.uk)
3Best-value lunch Go to Allium
Brasserie in the Abbey Hotel to enjoy
chef Chris Staines’ elegant cooking
at bargain prices. Two courses – the likes of
salt-baked beetroot salad with goat’s cheese,
hazelnut dressing and grilled gem, and soy
braised pig cheek with carrot and ginger
quinoa and nam jim salad – are just £17.50.
(North Parade, alliumbrasserie. co.uk)
4The afernoon tea Bath buns are up for
grabs at lots of posh hotels in the city.
Bathonians, though, head to Sam’s
Kitchen in the city’s artisan quarter for tea,
cake and fabulous people watching. Try the
white choc chip brownie (£2.70). (61 Walcot
Street, samskitchendeli.co.uk)
5Meat-lover’s treat The place to satisfy
carnivorous cravings is The Chequers.
Owned by the team behind two other
well-regarded Bath pubs, the Marlborough
Tavern and the Hare & Hounds, this double
AA-roseete-winning gastropub offers
popular Sunday roasts (from £13.50), 35-day
dry-aged rib-eye steaks (£22.95) and superb
burgers (£10.95). It’s also a convivial place to
Weekender
BATHWest Country ciders, tangy
cheeses, smoked eel and rhubarb vanilla martinis
are a few of the treats this spa town offers
Words LAURA ROWE
8The gin thing Don’t miss the Canary
Gin Bar, which offers up to 200 gins
to choose from. Try the new Bath
Gin (£7) – it’s flavoured with 10 botanicals
including burnt orange peel and cardamom,
and Thornbury’s 6 O’Clock (£5), mixers
included. (2/3 Queen Street,
thebathgincompany.co.uk)
TRUST O Laura Rowe has lived
and worked in Bath for a decade and is
the editor of local food magazine Crumbs.
HOW TO DO ITOne-bed Halcyon Apartments (thehalcyon.
com), next door to sister restaurant and
cocktail bar, The Porter (theporter.co.uk),
start from £150 per night, b&b. For more,
see visitbath.co.uk. This year’s Great Bath
Feast (greatbathfeast.co.uk), a month-long
food festival, runs from 1 to 31 October.
explore
city break
FOR A FOOD MAP OF BATH
AND MORE TRAVEL TIPS, GET THE APP!
See page 67
Allium’s
pan-fried cod
Acorn’s steamed beetroot
Red mullet at The
Chequers
sit and enjoy a pint of Bath Gem ale (£3.90).
(50 Rivers Street, thechequersbath.com)
6The £50 tasting menu Try Menu
Gordon Jones – at this intimate
dining room the dishes are
imaginative and expertly cooked, with
offerings such as Severn & Wye smoked eel
with salted purple potatoes, maple syrup,
cucumber and radish. The waiting list can
be three months long, so you’ll need to book
ahead. All wines are organic and biodynamic.
(2 Wellsway, menugordonjones.co.uk)
7Best for veggies Typical dishes at
Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen include
smoked field mushroom glazed in
a rich mushroom demi-glace with baby
baked potatoes in a mustard and chervil
sauce, salt-baked celeriac purée and market
greens (£15.95). The house cocktails are
always imaginative, too. Rhubarb vanilla
martini (£7.50), anyone? (2 North Parade
Passage, acornvegetariankitchen. co.uk)
The Irish capital isn’t just the place for a pint of the black stuff – these days you can feast on pulled pork sandwiches, tapas and buckets of mussels
in cool cafés, hip food stores and glamorous restaurantsWords MARINA O’LOUGHLIN
DublinPostcard
from
I can’t lie: it’s many years since I’ve
been to Dublin. So long, in fact, that
I was last there with my parents,
staying in a b&b in Rathmines,
where the tight-fisted landlady only toasted
the bread on one side. Back then, Bewley’s,
crooking its dowager-like pinkie on Grafon
Street, was the very height of sophistication.
Things have changed. A lot.
Everywhere we turn there’s a new café,
food store or restaurant. The VAT on food
is low in Ireland, and canny operators are
taking full advantage. You’re almost afraid to
turn your back unless a gourmet burger joint
springs up behind you. My favourite is Bunsen
Burgers in foodie Wexford Street; the thick
paties in pillowy buns are genuinely some of
the finest I’ve had, rosy juices from the Black
Aberdeen chopped steak dribbling down my
chin. (facebook.com/bunsenburger)
Here, as elsewhere, fine dining is making
way for something less starchy. There’s
more trend checklist ticking
of the Nordic kind at
Forest Avenue: chefs John and Sandy Wyer
are the most thrilling thing to hit Ballsbridge
since, well, forever – it’s almost impossible
to get a table. The seasonal menus deliver
food as pleasing to the eye as to the palate:
charred leeks with truffle and scallop; beef
tartare with freshly-grated horseradish.
(forestavenuerestaurant.ie)
There’s also been a flurry of activity from
Ireland’s celebrity chefs: the bullish Oliver
Dunne’s Cleaver East and Fade Street
Social from Dylan McGrath. The later is a
sprawling gastropolis of cocktail bar, tapas
joint, roof terrace and restaurant proper. I
like the buzzy downstairs best, where young
Irish chefs play at being Japanese itamae,
and small plates come thick and fast: riffs
on luxury ingredients married
with comfort food (think lobster hot dogs,
charred venison sausages or weeny fried
crab sandwiches). This is where Dubliners
come to show off. (cleavereast.ie;
fadestreetsocial.com)
I really like Super Miss Sue, from the same
stable as Dillinger’s and The Butcher Grill:
one half old-school ‘chipper’ where the
stonking ‘Cervi’ chips – afer Giuseppe
Cervi, the Italian godfather of Dublin fryers
– are golden and crisp; the other half swish,
Campari-botle-lined seafood restaurant:
heaving shellfish platers, crisp litle crab
croquetes, or a whole, smoky mackerel
served with sea herbs. (supermisssue.com)
You don’t need me to tell you there are pubs
in Dublin. Wonderful pubs – and this from
108 O SEPTEMBER 2014
explore dublin
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 109
PHO
TOG
RAPH
S:
MA
URI
ZIO
RELL
INI/
SIM
E/
4C
ORN
ERS
; SH
AN
E O
'NEILL/
ASPE
CTP
HO
TOG
RAPH
Y.N
ET
‘The oozing beauty of a washed-rind ardrahan is still haunting me’
Above, lef to right: Fine dining at
The Greenhouse; taking orders
at Crackbird; Sheridan’s cheeses
FOR A RECIPE FOR GUINNESS RAREBIT, GET
THE APP!See page 67
someone who can normally live without
them. Untouched by time, harbouring the
ghosts of writers and a million cigaretes,
they’re living history. We drink Guinness
and Murphy’s in nicotine-stained rooms,
marvelling at the etched glass, wood
panelling – and even, in the case of The
Swan, the ancient mahogany cash desk
behind the bar. Our favourites? The original
Mulligan’s, Kehoe’s, Grogan’s, Neary’s; and
shabby litle Fallon’s (with reputedly the
capital’s best Guinness) in the antiques district
round Francis Street. I’m delighted they still
regard the toastie as a culinary specialty.
For a brand new slant on the historic booze
haunt, the Peruke & Periwig behind St
Stephen’s Green is a fabulously atmospheric
recreation of a Georgian drinking den, with a
menu that’s defiantly 21st century: shoestring
fries and sticky pork ribs. These totems to a
drink-soaked literary past feed my loathing
of the tacky likes of O’Neill’s. (peruke.ie)
Ireland hasn’t yet fully embraced
the gastropub movement. The closest
approximation is in the magnificently-
named northern suburb of Stoneybater,
where L Mulligan, Grocer serves up heaving
platefuls of proper Irish grub to tables of
boisterous fans: seafood from Howth, the
notorious ‘porketarian’ board laden with
apple and pork rilletes, black pudding
croquetes, bacon jam and piccalilli. There
are huge buckets of mussels and even
a chicken Kiev: chichi it most certainly isn’t,
but it’s a blast. (lmulligangrocer.com)
For modernity, we look to café society:
Brother Hubbard, with its award-winning
pulled pork sandwiches the size of small
babies. Or my favourite, The Fumbally,
unpromisingly located in an ugly block of flats
away from the centre of town. Inside, it’s like
a sprawling mash-up of souk, farmers’ market
and street-food festival, the city’s cool youth
beavering away behind the open kitchen to
dish out Mediterranean and Middle Eastern-
spiced delights. Damn fine coffee, too.
(brotherhubbard.ie; thefumbally.ie)
But the new Dublin wave doesn’t exclude
seekers of something a bit upmarket: if you
hanker for posh, head immediately for The
Greenhouse. I'm not usually a fan of haute
cuisine, but this is a warm, glamorous
restaurant, ably served by Finnish chef
Mickael Viljanen. I would happily go back
for his creative amuse-bouches and petit
fours alone, but that would do a disservice to
the skill that goes into his dishes: almost
caramelised, pearly turbot served with the
greenest greens; luxury exuding from a fat,
pink langoustine, Iberico ham and a faint,
sexy hint of coconut; scallop, truffle, confit
egg yolk and beurre Nantais (above, lef).
Irish produce with Finnish sensibilities? To
coin a Dublin superlative: ‘Savage!’
(thegreenhouserestaurant.ie)
By way of exercise (ahem), we take a foodie
tour – the kind of thing that brings me out in
hives. But headed up by knowledgeable
Eveleen Coyle, it’s a great way to find goodies
that simply wouldn’t have occurred to me –
like slurping oysters at the litle food market
at Temple Bar. I was swerving this area, its
pub-lined streets now the preserve of stag
nights and backpackers all searching for the
bloody craic, but this is a small treasure. Then
Eveleen takes us to Sheridan’s – a blissfully
reeking store and temple for turophiles; the
oozing beauty of a washed-rind ardrahan
is still haunting me. (fabfoodtrails.ie;
sheridanscheesemongers. com)
Beneath the new Litle Museum of Dublin,
there’s Hatch & Sons, a ‘traditional Irish
kitchen’ where you can have beef-and-
Guinness stew, smoked salmon from The
Burren, or any number of gorgeous cakes
and scones, brownies and crumbles. Not
forgeting the traditional Wexford blaa –
a fluffy white roll stuffed with Irish cheese
or spiced beef. This is a beautiful space for
celebrating Irish produce a classic Dublin
Georgian house. (hatchandsons.co)
Sure, Bewley’s still there – all fur coat,
no knickers – but just behind it, the streets
now throb with foodie excitement: glorious
food stores such as Fallon & Byrne with
its cool upstairs brasserie; funky chicken
joints like Crackbird. The culinary scene is
unrecognisable – and a gazillion times
beter. Dublin, I’m sorry it’s been so long.
(fallonandbyrne.com; joburger.ie/crackbird)
MARINA O’LOUGHLIN is The Guardian Weekend’s incognito
restaurant critic. She stayed at Number 31: double rooms from
190, b&b (number31.ie). Flights to Dublin from various UK
airports start from around £50 return (ryanair.com). More
information: visitdublin.com
110 O SEPTEMBER 2014
FULLY ESCORTED
PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights from London Gatwick, London Heathrow, Manchester, Newcastle, Stansted, Birmingham or Edinburgh• Four nights in a four-star
hotel with breakfast• Sightseeing tour of historic Bologna• See Ravenna’s 6th century Byzantine mosaics• Guided tour of Parma• Discover how parma ham and balsamic vinegar are made
FULLY ESCORTED PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights to Naples from London Gatwick, London Stansted, LondonLuton, Bristol, Birmingham, East Midlands, Glasgow, Manchester,Newcastle or Dublin
• Seven nights in a choice of three and four-star hotels in Sorrento withbreakfast and dinner
• Walking tour of Sorrento, one of Italy’s most beautiful coastal towns• Cruise to the stunning island of Capri• Visit to the magnificent volcano, Vesuvius• Visit to Naples with its Archaeological Museum• Guided tour of Pompeii, a city frozen in time• Tour of the Amalfi coast – one of the most beautiful coastlines in the world• Visit to Ravello – setting for Wagner’s opera ParsifalVisit the oliriviera.co.uk to see the video
Pompeii, Capri and the Bay of Naples
Selected departures up to October 2014 & April – October 2015
Bologna, Parma & RavennaSelected departures up to October 2014 & April – October 2015
To request a brochure, call 01283 742355
Or to book, visit oliriviera.co.uk
8 daysHALF-BOARD FROM
ONLY £759pp
5 daysFROM ONLY £659pp
There are so many treasures and new experiences waiting for you on a Riviera Travel, Escorted tour. So when you come on a trip with us we’ll make sure you see not just the famous sights and unmissable places, but some of the unexpected and undiscovered corners that far fewer people know about. Whether you’re looking for cultural gems, breathtaking landscapes, bustling cities or some rural tranquillity, you can find it all in Europe. There are tours from a short three day break to a full two week holiday.
READER OFFERS
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 111
Andalucía is one of the most beautiful corners of Europe,
where the excesses of modern life haven’t taken root and
travellers are welcomed as honoured guests. Immortalised
by the writings of Ernest Hemingway and beloved by Orson Welles,
it is the Spain of Carmen, Figaro and Flamenco. Rich with the
legacies of the Moors and Romans, its charm and serenity will
captivate you.
FULLY ESCORTED PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights to Malaga from London Gatwick, Bristol, East Midlands,Glasgow, Edinburgh, Belfast International, Dublin, Leeds/Bradford,Birmingham, Luton, Manchester, Newcastle, Exeter or Southampton
• Six nights bed and breakfast at excellent three and four-star hotels,staying in Seville, Granada and Mijas
• Experience unspoiled Andalucía• Guided tour of Seville – city of the Conquistadors• Guided tour of the stunning Alhambra in Granada• Visit to Cordoba – one of the most dramatic cities in Spain• Visit to Ronda - one of the most spectacularly situated cities in SpainVisit the oliriviera.co.uk to see the video
Classical Spain - Seville, Cordoba & Granada Selected departures up to November 2014 & March – November 2015
Terms and Conditions: Holidays organised by and booking conditions with Riviera Travel, New Manor, 328 Wetmore Road, Burton upon Trent, Staffs DE14 1SP and are offered subject to availability. ABTA V4744 ATOL 3430 protected. Per person prices based on two sharing a twin room. Single rooms and optional insurance available at a supplement. Data Protection: Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of O would love to keep you informed of their special offers and promotions. Please state at time of booking/enquiring if you do not wish to receive these.
SicilySelected departures up to October 2014 & April – October 2015
Sicily, the beautiful island off the southernmost tip of Italy
is breathtaking with uninhabited countryside, a spectacular
coastline and the snow-capped Mount Etna. The Carthaginians,
Romans, Normans, Spanish, French and Italians have all conquered it,
and their relics include temples, amphitheatres, villas and old towns.
FULLY ESCORTED PRICE INCLUDES:
• Return flights to Catania from London Gatwick, Manchester or Dublin• Seven nights in four-star hotels with breakfast and dinner • Guided tour of Agrigento’s Valley of the Temples• Visit to Palermo, Sicily’s capital with its medieval and baroque centre• Visit Taormina - one of Italy’s most beautiful and stylish hilltop villages • Visit to Mount Etna – Europe’s largest active volcano• Guided tour of Monreale’s medieval cathedral and cloisters• Guided tour of Siracusa – city of ArchimedesSee the website to view our video
8 daysHALF-BOARD FROM
ONLY £829pp
7 daysFROM ONLY £539pp
Modern menu speak
A ‘phosphate’ is a cocktail ingredient making a comeback. Originally a soda fountain speciality, it adds acidity and a savoury edge to drinks. Find cucumber phosphate in a Riot Cup Number One at
the Peg and Patriot. £9, pegandpatriot.com
Smart cooks... taste food before they
serve it. Taste everything (not every spud you cooked, obvs), even
dressed salad
Kitchen tipLEAK-PROOF FOIL PARCELSThe boffins at Bacofoil tried out some different
parcel styles for me: this is what they think is
foolproof. Put your food on a sheet of foil and
fold the bottom edge up to meet the top one so
that the food is inside. Next fold the two
bottom corners over into diagonals. Then fold
in the sides twice, and finally fold down the
top edge. To serve, open the top edge gently
and then fold down the top layer.
112 O SEPTEMBER 2014
PHO
TOG
RAPH
Y: R
OB F
IOC
CA
, JA
N-P
ETE
R W
ESTE
RMA
NN
/STO
CKFO
OD
O’s deputy editor shares essential kitchen skills, new teas to try, how to cheat at cold brewing coffee and why you need a jar spatula
BREW TEA CO. Whole rolled leaf tea
from India and Sri
Lanka, this has a
great colour and
nice bright flavour.
It tastes how tea
should. £4.49
for 15 bags,
brewteacompany.
co.uk
RARE TEA CO.Royal Air Force tea
from the Makaibari
estate in Darjeeling,
India and Satemwa
estate in Malawi.
Fruity with an edge
of sweetness, and
good with or without
milk. £5/50g,
rareteacompany.com
TEA PALACEAssam superior,
whole leaf black tea
with a malty edge,
this makes a very
posh cup of builders.
£4.75 for a
sample caddy,
teapalace.co.uk
WE ARE TEAEnglish breakfast is
a blend of Assam
and Darjeeling
giving the malty
flavour of the former
pepped up with the
floral notes of the
latter. £3.39/15
bags, wearetea.com
Which tea should I use?Not all teas are created equal, these 4 great brews are made with care from
whole leaf tea, and are worth the extra few pence per cup
Lulu’s notes
lulusnotes.com @lulugrimes
log on tolulusnotes.com
If you haven’t yet visited O’s blog, lulusnotes.
com, please do. It’s where we put news about ingredients and products that have missed our print
deadlines, cocktails we think are worth drinking, snippets of info we’ve picked up about emerging
trends and, most importantly, some of our best-ever recipes like chorizo toad in the hole
PER SERVING 471 KCALS | PROTEIN 21.1G | CARBS 9.2G | FAT
39.1G | SAT FAT 15.1G | FIBRE 2.5G | SALT 1.02G.
Peppers with mozzarella, chilli and pine nuts 30 MINUTES | SERVES 3 | EASY | VEGETARIAN
114 O SEPTEMBER 2014
Banana loaf with passion fruit frostingTAKES 1 1/2 HOURS | SERVES 10 | EASY
butter 75g, softened
soft brown sugar 110g
plain flour 125g
wholemeal flour 75g
baking powder 2 tsp
eggs 2
very ripe bananas 4, mashed
pecans 75g, each snapped in half
FROSTING
butter 75g
cream cheese 75g
icing sugar 150g
passion fruit 3, halved and seeds and
pulp scooped out
• Heat the oven to 180C/fan160C/gas 4.
Beat the butter, sugar, flours, baking powder,
eggs and banana together.
• Stir in the nuts and spoon into a lined and
buttered 450g loaf tin. Bake for 1¼ - 1½
hours or until a skewer comes out clean.
Cool for 10 minutes in the tin then lift out
and cool on a rack.
• To make the frosting beat the butter until
soft, beat in the cream cheese and then the
sugar and 2 tbsp passion fruit juice. Frost the
loaf and drizzle over the remaining juice,
leave seeds in if you like or sieve them out.
PER SERVING 428 KCAL | PROTEIN 5.2G | CARBS 49.4G
FAT 22.7G | SAT FAT 10.9G | FIBRE 2.5G | SALT 0.6G
SEE PAGE 122
LAST BITE
WHY BUY
A JAR SPATULABecause nothing is as satisfying as being able
to scrape the last of the mayo out of the jar.
A spoon or knife doesn’t do the job nearly as
well. I like the all-in-one-piece spatulas in the
‘I can cook’ range at lakeland.co.uk, they’re
meant for kids but work perfectly. £2.99
Wine list starThe FMC Chenin Blanc 2012, Stellenbosch,
South Africa 14.5%
Chenin blanc was once the workhorse grape variety of South Africa.
Grown for simple white wines and for distillation, its real character
was lost in dilute, over-cropped grapes. But winemaker Ken Forrester
sought out old vines where the yields are low and concentration is
high. With his winemaker friend, Michael Meinert (FMC = Forrester
Meinert Chenin), he has created a top-quality chenin blanc, packed
with lemon, apricot and honeysuckle flavours. It has been aged in oak,
which has added complexity without intruding on the fruit. This wine
goes wonderfully with creamy fish pie, onion tart and roast pork belly.
Find The FMC on the list at High Timber in London and at The Bath
Priory, or buy it to drink at home from Great Western Wine Co, Bath,
or from Field and Fawcett, York at around £24.50.
Christine Austin
How to cheat atCOLD BREW COFFEECold brew may well be one of the new wave
items on offer at your local temple to coffee.
Unless you are a complete coffee nut, you
probably haven’t had the time, inclination, or
money to build your own cold-brew system,
so a pre-made bottle could be the answer.
We’ve tasted a few, and we like Sandow’s,
available from sandowslondon.co.uk
or at Selfridges until 1 Sep. £3.95
lulu’s notes
tips & techniques
SEPTEMBER 2014 O 115
WHAT’S ALL THE FUSS ABOUT GELATO O’s resident food adventurer, Gregor Shepherd,
guides you through techniques that may seem daunting but
which, in fact, are worth spending time over
There are, no doubt, several people who don’t like ice cream, but I can’t
fathom their objections. Ice cream has to be a astoundingly nasty not to
be enjoyable, and such aberrations are now scarce. It wasn’t always
like this – even though I’ve always loved ice cream, however low-rent,
my first trip to Italy saw me averaging two cones a day, astonished in
and grateful for my discovery of gelato.
All ice cream is called ‘gelato’ in Italy, but the difference between the
two as they are usually known in the UK is that gelato, in general, uses
less fat (more milk as opposed to cream, and fewer, if any, eggs) is
churned less, so it has less air in it, and is served less cold than what is
usual for ‘ice cream’, all of which often gives a fuller flavour.
Snowflake Luxury Gelato in Soho makes its own in-store from organic
Jersey milk and quality seasonal ingredients, as well as a wide range of
sorbettos, and has started offering courses in gelato and sorbetto
making. Head chef and ‘gelataio’ Paolo Riviecchio takes groups of six
through making gelato and sorbetto, followed by tasting in the shop
above, plus the sorbetto and gelato they’ve made to take home. When I
took the course, the group I was in was joking about eating both tubs on
the way home, but I take such matters seriously.
snowflakegelato.co.uk, £50 per person.
Find O’s recipe for gelato on lulusnotes.com from 15 August.
LOBSTER/CRAB CRACKERSAfter spending an hour or so trying to dismantle a crab using a
rolling pin and chopstick I decided it was time to invest in some
proper seafood gadgets. The rolling pin method works perfectly
well, but you do tend to spray your fellow diners with shell; these
crackers are friendlier. Once you’ve broken through the shell, a
pick with a forked end and a scoop will help you access all the
nooks and crannies. Crackers £4, picks £4.50, souschef.co.uk.
GADGET GURU
TO SEE THESE IN ACTION
GET THE APP!See page 67
116 O SEPTEMBER 2014
REC
IPES: A
NN
A G
LOVER. PH
OTO
GRA
PH
Y:
PH
ILIP
WEBB.
USE IT UPBrilliant ideas for ingredients
left over from this month’s recipes
READY IN 20 MINUTESGround almond crumbed chickenSERVES 2
Mix 50g ground almonds with ½ tsp
cayenne pepper and ½ tsp paprika and
season well. Slice 2 chicken breasts into
strips, dip into seasoned flour, then into
a beaten egg, then coat in the almond mix.
Fry in a little oil for 2 minutes each side until
cooked through and golden. Serve with
a squeeze of lemon.
LUNCH FOR ONEQuesadillas with pickled jalapeñosSERVES 1
Mix ½ diced red onion, 1 diced tomato,
3 chopped pickled jalapeño rings and
4 tbsp cheddar. Sandwich between 2
tortillas and dry fry for 3 minutes each side
until toasted and the cheese has melted.
SIMPLE STARTERButered spring onions with prawnsSERVES 4
Melt about 50g butter in a large frying pan
with a bay leaf and 1 whole garlic clove.
Blanch 12 trimmed spring onions in boiling
salted water for 5 minutes and drain. Remove
the garlic, swirl the spring onions in the butter,
and fry for 5 minutes until softened. Add a pack
of cooked and peeled prawns to warm
though for 2 minutes. Scatter with a handful of
parsley, season and serve with crusty bread.
POTATO SALAD WITH A TWISTCornichon and spring onion potato saladSERVES 2
Mix 5 tbsp mayonnaise, 2 tbsp soured
cream, 3 sliced cornichons, a handful
chopped dill, 2 sliced spring onions and
a squeeze of lemon. Toss though 400g cooked
new potatoes and season. Serve with fish.
SUMMER BERRY PUDGround almond crumblesSERVES 6
Heat the oven to 180C/fan 160C/gas 4.
Rub 150g plain flour with 150g butter to
make breadcrumbs, then stir in 50g porridge
oats, 50g ground almonds and 100g
demerara sugar. Toss together a mix of
seasonal berries and pile into 6 ovenproof
dishes. Top with the crumble mix and bake for
20-25 minutes until the berries are soft and the
top is lightly golden.
A COMFORTING SIDESof polenta with parmesan and hazelnutsSERVES 2
Pour enough hot vegetable stock over 100g
instant polenta to a smooth, spoonable mix.
Stirring continually over a low heat, add 50g
grated parmesan and a dash olive oil.
Season. Top with a handful chopped toasted
hazelnuts, a few rocket leaves and more
parmesan. Serve with stews or ragoûts.
QUICK VEGGIE LUNCHHalloumi and mint pesto pitasSERVES 2
Whizz together a large handful each mint
and basil leaves, 30g pine nuts, 3 tbsp
grated parmesan, 1 garlic clove and enough
olive oil to make the pesto. Season well. Thickly
slice 150g halloumi and fry for 2 minutes
each side until charred. Pile into toasted pitta
breads with slices of roasted red pepper,
tomato and a handful of rocket leaves. Add
a drizzle of the pesto and serve warm.
SWEET TREATMarzipan, chocolate and desiccated coconut trufflesSERVES 8
Roll tbsp-sized pieces of white marzipan
into balls and dip into melted dark chocolate.
Put on a sheet of baking paper, sprinkle with
desiccated coconut and allow to dry.
A NEW WAY WITH SALMONSalmon with chipotles in abodo glazeSERVES 2
Blend 2 chipotles in abodo with 2 tbsp
honey and the juice of 1 lime to a smooth
paste. Season and rub over 2 salmon
fillets. Grill for 5 minutes or until cooked
through. Serve with lime wedges and a few
coriander leaves.
PERFECT WITH BURGERSRed cabbage with apple andbrown mustard seedsSERVES 2
Finely shred ¼ red cabbage and mix with
1 cored and shredded apple. Toss with 1 tsp
brown mustard seeds, 1 tbsp cider
vinegar and a pinch of sugar, then season.
Pile onto burgers or hotdogs.
NIBBLE FOR DRINKSMexican pinto bean dip SERVES 6
Soak 100g pinto beans overnight in water.
Drain, rinse and boil for 50 minutes until soft.
Dice 2 tomatoes, 1 avocado, ½ red
onion, and mix with a bunch chopped
coriander and the juice of 1 lime. Mash the
beans with a fork, add a glug of olive oil.
And the tomato mix, season and add another
squeeze of lime if you like. Serve with tortilla
chips, breadsticks or crisps.
IMPROMPTU DESSERTGrilled plums with vanilla mascarpone SERVES 4
Mix 200g mascarpone, 1 tsp vanilla
extract and 1 tbsp amaretto (or other
liqueur). Stone and halve 8 plums, sprinkle
the flesh with a pinch brown sugar and grill
for 5 minutes until softened and starting to
caramelise. Add a spoonful of the mascarpone
mix into the centre of each hot plum and serve
scattered with a few toasted almonds.
Feroglobin® Capsulesa slow release formula of organic-formiron with zinc, folic acid and B vitamins.
Is your family looking for IRONthat’s gentle and great tasting?
Includes IRON, FOLATE & B12 which can contribute to the
reduction of tiredness & fatigue
GENTLE FORMULAEXCELLENT TASTE
Superdrug, Holland & Barrett, GNC, chemists, healthstores, supermarkets & www.vitabiotics.com
*(IRI value data. 52 w/e 2 Nov, 13).
Available from
AD
FE
RC
ON
P 3
0-0
4-1
4E
With busy lives, more of us are looking to support energy release and vitality, with an ironsupplement that is easy on the stomach and tastes great too.Feroglobin® Original is a gentle, liquid formula with iron which contributes to normal formationof red blood cells and haemoglobin. Feroglobin® Plus liquid provides all the benefits of theoriginal, plus Siberian Ginseng, L-Carnitine, Green Tea and Q10. Both provide a great tasting blendof minerals, co-factors, honey and Swiss malt, with vitamins B2, B6 & B12 which contribute tonormal energy release, and vitamin C which increases iron absorption.
Plus Liquid
Slow Release Capsules
Original Liquid
118 O SEPTEMBER 2014
O is owned and published by Immediate Media Company London Limited, Vineyard House, 44 Brook Green, London, W6 7BT. ISSN 1742/115. Printed by Polestar Chantry. Copyright Immediate Media Company London Limited 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part prohibited without permission. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in advertisements, articles, photographs or illustrations. Immediate Media Company Limited is a registered data user whose entries in the Data Protection Register contain descriptions of sources and disclosures of personal data. Immediate Media Company Limited is working to ensure that all of its paper is sourced from well-managed forests. This magazine can be recycled for use in newspapers and packaging. Please remove any gifts, samples or wrapping and dispose of it at your local collection point. All prices correct at time of going to press. UK basic annual subscription rate for 13 issues: £50.70, Europe/Eire £62, rest of the world £81.
OUR RECIPES Because O’s recipes don’t always give exact quantities for ingredients such as oil and butter, nutritional quantities may not always be 100% accurate. Analysis includes only the listed ingredients, not optional ingredients, such as salt, or any serving suggestions. Meat Care should be taken when buying meat that you intend to eat raw or rare.Eggs Use large eggs, unless otherwise stated. Pregnant women, the elderly, babies and toddlers, and people who are unwell should avoid eating raw and partially cooked eggs.Vegetarian Always check the labels on shop-bought ingredients such as yoghurt, cheese, pesto and curry sauces to ensure they are suitable.Recipe costings are based on the exact amount of ingredient used; for example, 125g of butter will be costed at half the price of a 250g pack. Our costings are always based on free-range eggs and high-welfare meat.TRAVEL O provides trusted independent travel advice and information. The majority of our travel recommendations come from specialists who live in, or travel frequently to, the destination they write about. Because we believe it’s important that our journalists experience the things they’re writing about first-hand, at times it may be necessary for us to seek assistance from travel providers such as tourist boards, airlines, hotels etc. However, when receiving such assistance, we ensure our editorial integrity and independence are not compromised through the following measures:• by publishing information on other appropriate travel suppliers and not just those who provided us with assistance.
• by never promising to offer anything in return, such as positive coverage. GENERAL TERMS & CONDITIONS
1. The promotion is open to all residents of the UK, including the Channel Islands unless otherwise stated, aged 18 years or over, except employees of Immediate Media and all promoting companies and their families/friends. 2. By entering the promotion, the participants agree: a) to be bound by these terms and conditions; b) that their surname and county of residence may be released if they win a prize; c) that, should they win the promotion, their name and likeness may be used by Immediate for pre-arranged promotional purposes. 3. Entries cannot be returned. 4. Entrants must supply Immediate with their full name, postal address and daytime telephone number. Immediate will only ever use your personal details for the purposes of administering this promotion, and will not publish them or provide them to anyone without permission. 5. Only one entry will be permitted per person, regardless of method of entry. No purchase necessary.6. Bulk and/or third-party entries will not be permitted and Immediate reserves the right to exclude persons who make such entries from future promotions. 7. The winning entrant(s) will be the first entry drawn at random from pooled postal and online entries.8. There is no cash alternative. The prize is non-transferable.9. Immediate’s decision as to the winner is final and no correspondence relating to the promotion will be entered into. Proof of postage is not proof of receipt and responsibility will not
be accepted for entries lost, delayed or damaged in the post.10. The winner(s) will be notified within 28 days of the close of the promotion by post. The name and county of residence of the winner(s) may be obtained by sending an SAE to: Winners List Request, PO Box 501, Leicester LE94 0AA within two months of the closing date of the promotion. Please specify which competition you want to find out about. 11. Immediate reserves the right to amend these terms and conditions or to cancel, alter or amend the promotion at any stage, if deemed necessary in its opinion, or if circumstances arise outside of its control. 12. If the winner is unable to be contacted within two calendar months of the promotion’s closing date, Immediate reserves the right to offer the prize to a runner-up, or to re-offer the prize in any future Immediate promotion. 13. Immediate excludes liability to the full extent permitted by law for any loss, damage or injury occurring to the participant arising from his or her entry into the promotion or occurring to the winner(s) arising from his or her acceptance of a prize. 14. The promotion is subject to the laws of England. 15. Immediate Media Company Limited (publishers of O) would love to keep you informed by post or telephone of special offers and promotions from the Immediate Media Company Group. Please tick the relevant box on your online entry if you’d prefer not to receive such information. Please enter your email address or mobile number on the online form so that O may keep you informed of newsletters, special offers and other promotions by email or text message. You may unsubscribe from these at any time. 16. Promoter: Immediate Media Company London Limited.
WHAT'S YOUR MOST-USED PIECE OF KITCHEN KIT? @Omagazine #kitchenkit
My blender
Small print
Our promise to youTriple-tested recipes We test our recipes
at least three times. The cookery team tastes
and adjusts them, if necessary, so you end up
with the perfect dish every time.
Easy recipes We believe you can eat
well at home even if you don’t have bags
of time. Most of O’s recipes are quick
and easy, and can be made using easily
accessible ingredients.
The odd challenge Weekends are for
more adventurous cooking, we think, so we
include some recipes that will take more time.
Good value Janine’s Cheap Eats shows you
exactly what to buy and what to cook from
Monday to Sunday without it being a pain
in the purse.
Seasonal eating We think it makes sense
to use ingredients when they are at their best.
Healthy eating 80% healthy, 20%
indulgent is the way we like to eat, but you
can make up your own mind – nutritional
information follows recipes.
Provenance maters We love to find
great ingredients from excellent producers,
but there ofen isn’t time for that, so we also
shop carefully in supermarkets. Where
possible, we use free-range eggs and chickens,
humanely reared meat, organic dairy
products, sustainably-caught fish, unrefined
sugar and fairly traded ingredients.
International savvy British is good, but
we also like to cook dishes inspired by travel.
Some ingredients only grow in tropical
conditions and can’t be had without air/sea
miles – it’s your choice, whether to use them.
Cheap eats and smart treats Transport
caffs and Michelin-starred restaurants:
there’s room for both in O. We may have
stumbled upon the places we feature on
a weekend away, been invited there by an
enthusiastic chef or investigated it afer a tip-
off from a reader. We love hearing your views
and our pro vs punter feature invites you to
become a restaurant critic for O.
Local knowledge Rhiannon ensures the
eat away section arms you with insider info
and recipes from exciting food destinations,
writen by food journalists.
We hope you enjoy O’s recipes, restaurant reviews and travel features all the more because they're served up with a sense of humour.
But we are as serious about eating well and with a conscience as you are. Here’s what the team promises you can expect in every issue:
Next issue on sale 12 September Fall-apart pork vindaloo | Plum and sloe gin layer cakeO’s 10 favourite Sunday lunch spots in the UK | Wine-lovers’ breaks in Puglia
Never miss an issue: subscribe now! Call 0844 848 9747 (quote OLP914)
A new twist on
a classic bake
Recipe on page 114
Banana loaf with passion fruitfrosting
122 O SEPTEMBER 2014
last bite
REC
IPE: LU
LU G
RIM
ES. PH
OTO
GRA
PH
: SA
M S
TO
WELL
. STYLIN
G:
OLIVIA
WA
RD
LE.
FO
OD
STYLIN
G: SA
L H
EN
LEY
Thanks to Wilton’s Easy Layer Cake Pan Set, you can bake
5 sponges at once to create layer upon layer of loveliness.
Only £14.99, exclusively from Lakeland.
Bake ashowstopper
Visit lakeland.co.uk/showstopper to get startedor pop into one of our 68 stores nationwide
