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No.3.

Asparagus, -Beans, Peas,&c.; for Profit.

A Practical Treatise on the Cultivation of Asparagus,Broad Beans, Celery, Cardoons, Globe Artichokes,

Kidney Beans, Peas, Rhubarb, Ridge Cucumbers,Runner Beans, Sea Kale, and Vegetable

Marrows for Market; also the Eradicationof Insect and Fungoid Pests;

_Treatment of Soils,&c.

EDITED BY

T. w. SANDERS� f.L.S., f.R.H.S.(Editor of" The Profitable Perm and Garden," Author of" The Encyclopredla

of Gardening," &c.)

ILLUSTRATED.

LONDON:

W. H. 6t L. COLLINGRIDGE, 148 & 149, Aldersgote Street, LC,f\\ �.

LONDON:

PRINTED BY W. H .. AND L. \JOLLINGRIDGE,ALDERSGATE STREET, B.C.

PREFACE.

THI!;, the third of the series of Handbooks on the cultureof vegetables for profit, is designed, like its predecessors,to supply sound, practical guidance to those who desire to

embark in the business of growing Asparagus', Broad,Kidney, and Runner Beans, Cardoons, Oelery, Globe

Artichokes, Ridge Cucumbers, Rhubarb, Seakale, andPeas- for market purposes. Each crop described herein

. has had its various phases of culture, etc., dealt with bya practical grower, ana the information imparted with

reference to pests and diseases that attack each one husalso been supplied by an expert on the subject.

I hope that the contents will be helpful to expe�rienced market growers in supplying them with the'latest information in regard to pests and diseases, andinstructive to beginners by teaching them up-to-datemethods of culture. � � � J 1 u � � u

Q � :; � T. W. S.

THE PROATABLE FARM AND GARDENHANDBOOKS.

VEGETABLES FOR PROFIT.

Price 1/- each; by Post, 1/2�.1. C�een Crops: 8,rooooll, Cabbage, Herbs, &0.

2. Root Crops: Potatoes, Onions, Turnips, &0.

3. Asparagus, Beans, Peas, Rhubarb, Marrows, &0.4. Mushrooms, Cuou mbers, Salads, Tomatoes, &0.

W. H. & L. COLLINGRIDGE,148 & 149, Aldepsgate Stp�et, London, E.C.

INDEX.

PAGE PAGE

Analyses of Vegetables 91 Celery... ... ... ... . .. 20

Asparagus ... ... ... . .. 8 Average Returns per Acre 90

'Average Yield per Acre ... 90 Yield per Acre 90

Forcing 12 General Culture 24

Manures for 9 Manures for 2�

Marketing 11 Marketing 25Pests 14 Pests ... .., 25

Planting 10 Planting ... ... ... ... 23

Propagation 10 Quantity of Seed per Acre 90

Quantity of Seed, etc., Soil for ... ... 22

per Acre 90 Sowrng the Seed 23Soil for 9 Varieties of 20Varieties of 9 Crops, Weight of 93

Broad Bean 14Average Yield per Acre 90 Drainage, Hints on 95General Culture of ... 17Manures for 16

Marketing 17 Globe Artichoke 25Pests 17 Average Yield per Acre 90Quantity of Seed per Acre 90 General Culture of 28Seed Sowing 17 Manures for 27Soil for 16 Marketing 28Varieties of 16 Pests of 28

Bordeaux Mixture 93 Propagation of 27Quantity of Seed per Acre 90

Carbonate of Copper Solution 94 Seed Sowing 27Cardoon ............ 18 Soil for 26

Culture of 19 Varieties of 26Marketing 20Soil for 19Varieties of 20 Hedge Planting 96

4

Kidney BeanAverage Returns per Acre

Yield per Acre ... . ..

ForcingGeneral CultureManures forMarketingPestsPicklingPreserving . . . . . . . ..

Quantity of Seed per AcreSeed, SowingSoil forVarieties of

ManuresCompostsGypsumNight SoilSewage ManureWood Ashes

Pea 34Average Returns per Acre 90

Yield per Acre ... 90Early Outdoor Crops 41General Culture of 39Manures for 38Marketing the Crop 39Pests ... ... ... 40Preserving Green 85Quantity of Seed pel' Acre 90Soil for ... '" ... ... 35Seed, Sowing 38Under Glass 40Varieties of 35

Pea ty Soils.

81Pests and Diseases 64

Aphides ... ... 64

Asparagus Beetle 64Rust 77

Bean Aphis 65Canker and Rot 77

Celery Fly 66Leaf Bli�ht 77

Cockchafer Beetle ssCucumber Mildew 77Mildew 77

INDEX.

PAGE2990903231313232868690312929

Pests and Diseases:--Millepedes 68Pea and Bean Thrips 69

Midge ... ... ... ... 72Mildew 78Seed vVeevil 72Spot 78Weevils 73

Seedling Pea Blight 78Slugs and Snails ... 74Red Spider 74Wireworms 74Woodlice . . . 76

Pickling Surplus Crops '" 85Produce, Average Prices of 92

898989898989

Rhubarb 41Average Returns per Acre 90

Yield per Acre ... ... 90

Forcing 44

Gathering the Crop 46General Culture 44Jam 87Manures for 43

Marketing 46Pests 46

. Planting 44

Propagation of 43

Quantity of Plants per Acre 90Soil for 42Seed, Sowing 43Varieties of 42Wine 87

Ridge Cucumbers 46

Average Returns pel' Acre 90General Culture 49Manures for 48

Marketing 49Pests 49

Pickling 87Planting ... 48Seed, Sowing 48Soil for 47Varieties of 47

Runner Beans 50Average Returns per Acre 90

Yield per Acre 90General Culture of 53Manures for 52

INDEX. fi

Runner Beans:-. Noils :-

Marketing 53 Clay 79Pests 53 Claying S�Preserving Beans 86 Colour of 81Quantity of Seed per Acre 90 Composition of 83Seed, Sowing ... ... . .. 52 Cultivation 95Soil for 51 Loamy 80Varieties of 51 Paring and Burning 82

Sandy... ... . .. 81Seakale 54 Sulphide of Potassium 94

Forcing 57General Culture 57Manures for 56 Testin�for Humus 82Marketing ... 58 For ime ... 82Pests 59 For Water 81Planting 56 Solubility of 82Propagation 57Quantity of Plants per Acre 90

Vegetable MarrowSeed, Sowing 56 59Soil for ... 55 Average Returns per Acre 90Varieties of 55 Yield per Acre 90

Seed Germination 91 General Culture 62

Testing 90 Jam 87Seeds, Longevity of 93 Manures for 60

Number per Pound 9] , Marketing the Crop 63To Sow an Acre 95 Pests 63

Weight per Bushel ... 91 Planting '" ... ... . .. 62

'Soils, and their Treatment 79 Quantity of Seed per Acre 90

Chalking 82 Seed', Sowing 62

Clay Burning 83 Soil for 60

Asparagus, Beans, Peas, etc.,for Profit.

IN the following pages such profitable and miscellaneous cropsas Asparagus, Broad Beans, Cardoons, Celery, Globe Art i

chokes, Kidney Beans; Peas, Ridge Cucumbers, Rhubarb,Runner Beans, and Seakale receive attention. With the

exception of Cardoons all the rest are decidedly paying market

garden crops, Celery, Asparagus, and Beans especially so.

Anyway, if the reader be anxious to know the approximatereturns per acre from the foregoing crops he has only torefer to the concluding pages of this handbook, where hewill find the average yield and prices or each kind dulyrecorded, and an he has to do is to make a calculation to

get the desired figures.Although all described herein are classed as market-garden

crops it by no means follows that they can only be grownby market gardeners. There are many farmers who embarkin the culture of Peas to supply the Midland and othermarkets, and find the crop one of the most profitable to

grow. This is especially the case in Worcestershire, Localauthorities, again, who. possess sewage farms, grow Celeryextensively, as at "Romford, in Essex, for example. We are

also acquainted with several farmers who add materially to.their treasury by cultivating Runner Beans on the dwarfsystem.


Whether grown on the. farm, in. the market garden, Or' 011

the small 'holding, the. crops hereafter dealt with will not

fail, if skilfully managed, to yield a good return. BOo muchby the wa.y, and now to the business of showing how thecrops should be grown to ensure the best results.

MARKET BUNDLE OF ASPARAGUS.

Asparagus.-This is a popular and a profitable marketvegetable, and one that rarely fails to pay the grower. Itscultivation dates back for centuries; indeed Pliny mentionsthat fine samples of shoots were grown in his time-threeof them weighing a, pound. Moreover, forced Asparagus was

sold in the London markets as long ago. as 1670: During the

ASPARAGUS.

last century a, large acreage of Asparagus was grown in theThames valley, Fulham, Mortlake, and Isleworth beingfavourite spots. The rapid extension of outer London has,however, swept a,wa� the erstwhile market gardens', and now

Asparagus, like most other crops, is grown further afield.In' these days Asparagus is very extensively grown inthe Vale of Evesham, too strong rich soils of the Lias' formation appearing to suit its requirements admirably. The chiefdrawback to its success as a, market vegetable is. the, long time-two to three yearSr--it takes to establish itself so. as to,

yield a remunerative return. Those, however, who can affordto wait so long will certainly find Asparagus a paying crop.

VARIETIEs.-The sods usually growr» are Conover's Colossaland Reading Giant. Some gi'owers weed out the female

seedlings and retain the male ones, believing these to yieldfiner shoots.

SOIL.-To, grow Asparagus really well a good rich, cooland moist loam is needful. It must be deeply trenched or

ploughed beforehand j in fact, this should be done a yearprevious to, planting, a, crop of potatoes being grown on theland. in the meantime. The site of an Asparagus plantationshould be a sheltered one, especially if early cro.pS! be de�sired.

MANUREs.-As already mentioned, the soil must be rich,and this can only be accomplished by the liberal use ofmanures. An abundant supply, therefore, of good stable dungshould be incorporated with the soil before planting, and

subsequent dressings applied each autumn. As to artificials,nitrate of soda is one of the best for light soils, and sulphateof ammonia for heavy ones. Both should be applied in Aprilat the rate of one to two cwts. per acre. Peruvian guano isanother good fertiliser for Asparagus beds j apply this atthe rate of one cwt. per acre. A favourite dressing withthe Evesham growers for Asparagus beds is SO()t appliedsufficiently freely to just cover the surface of the soil. Thisis applied in March, and raked in. Sometimes this is followed

by a dressing of fish manure in April. Salt is not, used so

10 VEGETABLES FOR PROFIT.

much as formerly, nitrate of soda being preferred. The

tendency of salt on heavy soils is to render them too dampand compact.

Pno.PAGATION.-The seed is sown in April or beginning of

May in drills about two inches deep, and from ten to twelveinches apart, It is sown; from one to two inches apart in therow. The seedlings come up in about ten days j frequenthoeing keeps weeds down during the summer. Sometimes

they axe transplanted the following April or May, but axe

more often left in the seedbed two yeaxs before transplanting.PLANTING.-The method of culture pursued by nineteenth

oentury market growers was to plant the Asparagus in bedsfour feet six inches wide, two feet alleys between, and two

rOoWS to a bed. The land intended for the beds was trenchedthree to. four feet deep and heavily manured. Drills were

drawn two inches deep, and the seeds sown six inchesapart in March, the seedlings being afterwards thinnedto a foot apart. The first year the beds were croppedwith onions sown between the Asparagus, and the second

yeax with lettuce. The third: year a few inches of mould were

dug out of the alleys and thrown over the crowns. A few ofthe largest shoots only were out the third season. In autumn,after the foliage was out down, the soil between the rows

was forked over and planted with cabbage or coleworts. Thesame thing was done the fourth year, after which the Asparagus had the land to, itself.'

This plan of planting Asparagus beds has, however, beendone a,way with for market purposes, as there was too muchlabour attached to. it. This vegeta.ble should be grown inrows like rhubarb and seakale, so that the whole can becleaned by horse power, instead of the expensive hand weed

ing. The crown: should be planted sufficiently deep to' be outof the way of any surface implements. The permanency of

plantations depends entirely on the richness of the soil, themethod by which they are planted, the preparation of thesoil, and subsequent tillage. A good plantation should lastat least twenty years. Strong one-year-old crowns should be

ASPARAGUS. 11

used fOT planting in late Apri1 001' early March. Plant in rows

four feet apart, crowns eight to ten inches deep, and twofeet apart in the rows. TOo plant in this way trenches must be

got out. DOo not fill up the trenches when the crowns are

first put in, because the young plants will not be strongenough to push through eight inches of soil. Only cover

with two. Dr three inches of soil; continually keep the horsehoe working, then this will gradually fill up the trenches.

FOol' the first two years, when the Asparagus must not be

cut, and the tillage must be of the _best to get the soil in

thorough condition, catch cro'ps may be grown .of lettuce andother early-matttring vegetables, In early autumn mow offthe tops of the Asparagus and burn them. The second autumn

give the whole plantation a thorough dressing of manure,and work in. This is the year when the first cutting o.f headswill be obtained, so. in the spring a thorough tillage" mustbe given, as the horse implements will not be able to workSD easily after the end of June on account of the large crops.

Asparagus should never be out after the end of June. Uptill then every shoot should be cut" whether fit for marketDr not, the small shoots being sold as "sprue." This cuttingDff of all shoots strengthens those coming up. After this

period let all of the shoota, both large and small, grow to

strengthen the root action, and to increase the crowns' strengthfor the following year. In late autumn mow off all of the tops,so' that the ground may be thoroughly cleaned. Some peopleleave this on to protect the crowns ill severe weather, butin this case the crowns are too deep to be harmed by frost.

In spring a mulching of litter Dr long manure should be

applied to slightly protect yDung shoots from late frost, and

partioularly to keep in and draw up moisture. Succulenceand tenderness constitute the value of the Asparagus, therefore these points should be carefully noticed and brought to

perfection if possible,

MARKETING THE CROP.-Aspar�& is generally cut about4in. below ground when the head first appears, therefore

having about four-fifths of white, which is tough and uneatable.


Asparagus should not be cut at all, but, carefully broken offwith the fingers, just below the surface of the ground, both

large and small, when eight to. ten inches high. The" grass"will then be an green, and by far the most tender and market

able, so. should thus be gathered. The heads must be sortedout into their different sizes and tied up acco.rdingly� Thesmallest is called "sprue." The size 'of the bunch depends on

the season or time of year, Early .Asparagus is put up ill

small bunches. .In mid-season the bunches should be aboutfour inches through and seven to nine inches long, and tied u:pwith raffia 01' rubber .rings, which are corning to, the front,as they save so milch time and labour. Cut off the grassevenly at the bottom, Each bunch should be wrapped upseparately in paper and carefully packed in 'whatever crates

are .to hand for the purpOose. Be careful in putting them .intheir respective qualities" and name them acordingly, so thatthe salesman or purchaser can' tell what, they are' without un

packing them.

FORCING ASPARAGus.-This phase of Asparagus culture is

hardly as profitable as the one just dealt with. The British

grower has a formidable competitor in the French market

gardener, who. literally swamps the leading markets with his

produce. It would hardly pa,y British growers tOI gOI in for

Asparagus forcing as a speculative industry on a, large scale,but where there is a good local demand for this vegetable it

might possibly pay. Anyway, a few hints will be givellon the subject of forcing, in .order that those who careto trymay have the needful information ..

There are two methods of forcing-c-one in frames over hotbeds of manure; and the other in heated glasshouses. Theformer plan can only be successfully accomplished by thosewho have access to a liberal supply of fresh horse manure.

In this case a, hotbed to hold one or a range 01£ frames has.

too be prepared in the usual way. It, sho-uld be a, foot widerthan the frames, four feet high at baek and three' feet highin front" and be so arranged that the frames face the south.

Lay the roots closely together on the manure, and then cover

ASPARAGUS. ]3

them with a. little soil. Cover the sashes with thick mats until

growth begins, then admit the light, and also a little air byday. No water will be needed unless the roots appea;r to

really need it, and then give only a little, which must he

tepid. In about twenty to thirty days the shoots will be

ready for cutting. Grade them into, two 001' three sizes, puttingthe smallest into separate bundles to' sell as "sprue" for soupmaking. Fresh beds should be made at intervals of threeweeks from November to April to keep up a regular supply.

In heated structures, where there is a- good bottom heat,put a. layer of manure and leaves on the bed, then pack the

\

FORCING ASPARAGUS IN FRAME ON HOTB�D.

roots closely together, cover with a little soil, and finally withmats over a light wooden frame-work. Where a bed is not

practicable in a hothouse get some large packing cases, puta little soil in the bottom, pack the roots' in closely, cover withsoil lightly, and stand one bGX on the other. This simpleplan will give a good yield o.f shoots with little trouble. TIle

temperature for the forcing-house should be sixty degrees at

night and sixty-five to seventy degrees by day.The roots for forcing should be strong, quite three years old,

'and be lifted from the open gr�und as wanted, To. ensure

a supply in .frosty weather, cover the crowns heavily withstraw. The roots, after forcing, are of no further use, andshould be thrown away. The novice at the business must

clearly understand that it would HOot pay to purchase roots


fOT forcing. He must grow"

crowns" for the purpooSe in Ole

manner advised for ordinary outdoor culture.Another system of forcing practised by market growers is

to dig out trenches two feet wide and deep on each sideof the bed in autumn. The soil removed is thrown on to the

bed, and the trenches filled up with hot stable dung. andleaves. Frames are next placed over the beds, and hotmanure packed round the sides, thick mats being. also, putover the..glass, Should severe weather set in, add plenty ofstraw also to conserve the heat, When the shoots begin to

show through, the soil remove the mats to. allow the sun to

reach the soil, covering again at night. Cut the shoots whenthree inches high. Cutting may continue from the bed fora, couple of months after which remove the frames and thesurface manure, rake o,ff the upper three inches of soil on to

the manure in the trenches, and let the plants grow for a

couple of years before forcing, again..

Pssrs.c-The Asparagus Beetle and the Asparagus Rust, acre

the chief enemies of the Asparagus, See Pests and Diseasesfor description and remedies.

. .

Broad Bean.-The Broad Bean is a native Gf the East,and! has been cultivated for a, v,ery long period. It oan

hardly be styled an important market crop. The plantsare grown from, the seeds contained in the pods, and are

raised out or doors during the mild season of the year. Incertain localities the demand, for Broad Beans is fairly good,but this is not generally the oase, and their cultivation, shouldnot therefore be undertaken on a very extensive scale. The

crop is a, fairly quick one, the plants coming into bearing,according to the season, in from four to six months after

sowing the seed. At the same time tha.t Broad Beans are

in the market there are a number of other vegetables of thechoicer class to be had, and the latter are consequently preferred to the Broad Bean, with its somewhat coarse character.Unless very careful picking be performed the plants will hot

long remain in bearing, and a disadvantage is that the plantsare very liable to attacks of Black Fly. Some sorts are

BROAD BEAN. 15.

LONG-POD BROAD BEAN.


largely raised for feeding cattle, and form a, most valuablefood.

VARIETIEs.-There are not many varieties culbivated for

market, the Long-pods and Windsors are the principal, theformer being very suitable for early work. Seville Long-podis an early variety, largely grown, very .productive, and 00·£

good flavour, Harlington -Windsor is a, very suitable bean forthe main cn)p.

.

SDIL AND ITS PREPARATION.-A wide range oi soils is suitable,but a, rich, strong

.

loam is moet liked for this crop" and ifsomewhat moist SOl much the better. . It will also gTow well

,

on heavy land, but for the' early crops a rather light, soil is'

preferable, and the area must be well drained. 'I'he soilshould have been liberally treated for the preceding crop.Beans like a firm bed, and if particularly light" the landshould be made firm by rolling, Or the beans may be dibbledinto the ground without previously digging it, the surface inthe latter instance being' well harrowed befo-rehand. In thecase of a, stiff soil, the, ground should be deeply ploughed inthe early autumn, and the rough edges left. until the-followingFebruary, then. level and mark out in rows two feet apartready for the seed. Hot, dry land sho-uld not he used to growthe main crop,

MANUItES.-A recent application of stable dung is unsuitablefor this orop, and only ground which is. in good heart, shouldbe chosen. Excessive 'manure is very Iiable to: cause a greatproduction of leaf and stem t.OI the detriment' of the numberof pods. If the gTQ1.'"md be vecy poor, and an application of

stable dung he necessary, tljeii it should be given only in a

well decomposed f<?rTI1, at the rate Oof from fifteen to, twentytons per acre. Plough in deeply in the autumn so. that it. maybecome incorporated with the sOoil.. A good combination O[�artificial manures is !is :fcHows; :,-In the 'autumn apply" p're�',vious to ploughing, from six' to eight, hundredweights of basicshi,g per acre, and if there be a deficiency Df 'lime in· the sOoil,'add three hundredweights 9'� kainit pe� !-Lcre. In the springhoe in from, three' to four hundredweights of superphosphate of

BROAD BEAN.

lime per acre, when the plants are 81 f.ew inches up. When thesoil is rich from previous high cultivation, apply artificials only.In the spring dress with four hundredweights of superphosphate per acre, and hoe in, and one hundredweight of' nitrate

per acre during showery weather.

SOWING THE SEED.-For market work the seed is usuallysown in its permanent position. Select a sheltered localityfor the early crop, and use the Long-pod varieties. Dibble in

during February in rows tWOI feet apart, and from six to teninches distant in the rows, the seed being two, inches deep.For the main crop sow one of the Windsor kinds in an openposition in March, in rows three feet apart and from eightto ten inches in the rows. The distances will vary accordingto the quality of the soil, and other circumstances. Growers

sometimes soak the seed -in water for a. few hours, in orderto' hasten germination. If desired, drills ma.y also be drawnfrom two to three inches deep at the above distances apart,and the seed dropped in and covered over. Afterwards rollwith a light roller, particularly on ground which is not heavy.From two to three bushels of seed will be required per acre.

GENEllAL CULTURE.-Ho,rser-hoe frequently so as to keep the

ground well stirred, and as soon as the plants are, up hoein between them. A slight earthing up of the early cropsis sometimes performed in order to provide protection, butit is not necessary later on. All weeds must be suppressed.Beyond these operations no great attention is needed for BroadBeans.

.

MARKETING.-As soon as the Beans have fully matured theymay be picked; prior to this period the produce will be bitterin flavour, But the Beans must not be allowed to remainefter maturity, otherwise the plants will cease to bear, Gatheron a. dry day in bushel baskets, rejecting all but clean pods.No old Beans should be consigned. Rapid marketing is essen

tial, and a covering of freshly-cut. grass should be put over

the baskets, and secured with wooden splinths. The cropmust be gone over every two or three days to secure the bestresults.

17

c 2


PEsTs.-:The chief insect pests are the Bean· Aphis and PeaBeetle, while the only fungoid pest is the' Rust, See separatesection further on for description and remedies.

Cardoon.-T'he demand for this vegetable in Englandas a market product is not very great, and it is doubtful if

THE CARDOON.

j t; would pay the. market gardener to cultivate it to any largeextent. Still enquiries about its culture for market havebeen made in the pages of " The Profitable Farm and Garden,"

CARDOON. 19

and we deem it advisable to include a short account of itsculture in this handbook.

In habit of growth, the Cardoon is not unlike its near

relative the Globe Artichoke. It is grown for the sake ofits blanched leaf-stalks in much the same way as Celery. TheFrench cultivate it very' extensively, and it is considered bythose who are' partial to the properly cooked leaf-stalks to be a

most wholesome vegetable.SOIL.-Tbe ideal soil for Cardoons. is a fairly light, well

drained loam, 0'1' sandy loam. In such a soil the plants are

grown in a trench aimilariy to, Celery. On heavier soils the

plants must be grown on the surface, and the results are not

so satisfactory. The soil, moreover, must be rich, and .theposition a warm nne.

GENERAL CULTURE.-The plants must be raised from seedsown in heat in: March, 'and planted out, in May, or outdoorsin April, The first method ensures an early supply, and thelatter the main one. If the first plan be adopted, transplantthe seedlings as soon as they can be safely handled intothree-inch pots; keep in heat for a few weeks, then hardenoff in cold frames, prior to, planting out. If the second planbe preferred, and this is the least troublesome, sow the seedsin threes at intervals of eighteen inches apart, and thinthem out to one in each place. The trenches should be one

foot deep, eighteen inches wide, and four feet apart fromcentre to centre, and run from north to south. Place sixto eight inches of rotten dung in the trenches, and a, coupleof inches of soil over this. When grown on the surfacedraw drills four feet apart" and sow the seeds at the distance

already advised. Assuming the trench system to be followed,and the seeds sown, or the plants put in, subsequent treat

ment consists of keeping the plants well supplied with waterin summer, and stirring the soil occasionally. In August the

plants raised in heat will have completed their growth,while those raised from seed sown in the trenches will not

have done so' before October. In August o-r October blanchingmay commence. . Blanching is done by first drawing the


leaves up tightly together, and then winding haybands closelyround each plant WI the top is reached, finally earthing upwith soil. The French method is to place a, stake to each

plant, secure the leaves closely by means of three bandsof straw, and then' to thatch each plant with three inchesin thickness of straw. The blanching process occupies six to

eight weeks.

VARIETIEs.-The two best sorts to· grow are the French

Prickly 'I'ours and the Long-ribbed Smooth Spanish.MARKETING THE CRop.-The plants are lifted and trimmed

as for Celery, a tie being placed round each to keep thestalks intact, There is no general rule as to

_the number

placed on the market, but a good plan would be to sell themwholesale by the dozen 001' singly retail.

CelerY.-This may be found growing wild in many partsof Europe, and the cultivated varieties form a. valuable

market-garden crop. The wild kinds are met with inmarsh land, ditches, and shallow water. As a popular vegetable, its position is undoubted, and the demand is invariablygood. Coming in during the autumn, and throughout thewinter when there is a, scarcity of choice kinds of produce, itis much appreciated in the market. On the Continent Celeryis extensively .eaten in a, cooked form, but in this countryit is more often employed raw, As a, flavour for soups, etc.,Celery is excellent. Special facilities should be present. inorder to cultivate it on an extensive scale for market. A

good supply of water, and plenty of manure are essential.The crop lends itself to production on holdings of limitedsize, and the aim should be: to produce a, large solid, wellblanched head, which eats quite crisply. To effect. this

good cultivation as. well aBo considerable judgment is necessary.VARIETIEs.-There are many varieties, some of which are

favourites in particular localities. The' white and red kindsare chiefly grown in this country. The former being em

ployed . for early crops, for which there is a good demand,and the latter is useful for winter culture on account of its

hardiness, and a lesser tendency to run away to, seed.

CELERY. 21

White Val'ieties.-Bibby's Defiance is an excellent largekind. Sandringham produces broad stalks, which are, verysolid, and there are no underground suckers. Sutton's WhiteGem, and Veitch's White, are both good.

A MARKI!:T ROLL OF CELERY.

Red Varieties.-Cla,ywo,rth Prize Pink, Leicester Red audManchester Red all make large solid heads, and can be re

commended.

22 VEGE'tA:BLES FOR PROFIT.

SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION.-Shallow soils are not desirablefor this crop. The, ground' must. be deep, somewhat light in

character, and rich. Heavy clays, are unsuitable. An abundant supply of water will also be necessary, and the. water

pipes should be laid on a,t convenient, positions. The area. should be carefully chosen, and preparation of the soil CQm-

menced well in advance, Good drainage, and an open positionare requisite. Excellent results are obtained on irrigatedland, and Celery, though a. mo-isture-loving plant, should not,

be allowed to' get sodden. Trenching or deep ploughingshould be done early in the autumn, and the roughened sur

face allowed to remain throughout the winter frosts until

planting-out time, which is from May onwards. At the latter

period harrow the surface, and plough out wide furrows aboutsix inches deep. For the early and main crops the distancefrom row to row is five feet, and for the later plantings, four '

feet. These spaces will allow of the subsequent. e.irthing upof the crop. Deep trenches for the plants should be avoided,particularly for winter ClI'QPS, and when the drainage is notor the best. Another method is to dig or plough out trenchesfrom twelve to fifteen inches wide, and one to one-and-ahalf feet deep. Fill in with well-rotted manure and soiI to'one foot in depth, tread firmly, and cover with soil ready for

planting. This work should be done as early in the season as

possible. The trenches are formed the same distances apartas above given, the measurement being from centre to centre.

MANURES.-Well rotted stable dung is the best manure forthis crop; an abundant supply is desirable, and Cr lery can

hardly be overdone in this respect. From thirty to forty tonsof thoroughly ·decomposed manure should be applied in the

early autumn previous to ploughing. The manure should be

spread out in rows a,t the same distances apart that the

plants will come, so that it will be available in greatestquantity by them. A good combination of dung and artificials is as follows :-PIQugh in in the early autumn fromfifteen to twenty tons per acre of well-rotted manure, andiIi the spring hoe or harrow in four ewt. per acre of superphosphate of lime.

· CELERY.

SOWING THE SEED.-For the first crop sow early in Februaryin light, rich soil, composed of turf and a little sand. Good

drainage must be provided by well croaking the seed pans.In order to obtain short, sturdy plants sow the seed verythinly. Cover with fine earth, and gently water, Place a

sheet of glass over the seed pan, and put in a temperatureof

.from seventy to. seventy-five degrees. Bottom heat is

advantageous. Expose freely to. the air as SODn as the plantsare up, and keep near the glass on a shelf. On the appearanceof the, first leaves prick D,ff into' boxes' one inch apart. Good

drainage is also essential in this case. Keep the seedlingsne?f the light, give plenty of air,. and shade from the sun.

T!,{e temperature is the same as. before mentioned. In aboutfJ,urteen days remove to a temperature of from fifty to fifty,five degrees, still supplying abundance of light and air. Give

plenty of water, but see that it is well drained away. Short,sturdy growth is obtained by unstinted light and air, and isa very essential factor in the well-being of the future crop.When mild weather arrives remove to cold frames. to hardenoff. Crowded conditions mean weak and leggy plants. Thesecond or main crop is sown in March in the same way. Thelatest crop may be raised out, of doors in April and Mayon hot-beds, Place a layer of soil on top, and tread veryfirmly. SD'W the seed thinly broadoast, and cover with lightsoil, Place a layer of straw or litter over until germinated,removing same during mild weather, and replacing at night.Expose freely to light and air. Plant out when about threeinches high direct into the permanent trenches.

PLANTING OUT.-The drills or trenches having been prepared, a showery day should be chosen early in May for

planting out. An important matter is not to. check the

growth. Plant in ,single rows from nine inohes to one footapart in the rows. Carefully remove the young plants with a

trowel from the box, and bring away a ball of earth alongwith the roots. Dibble each one in the trench, press thesoil firmly around, and give a gentle watering. The strongestplants should be selected by themselves, and the weaker


ones planted also. by themselves. This method provides uni

formity in growth and marketing. The second sowing is

planted out in June, and the last, sowing in July.

GENERAL CULTUHE.-Celery must be kept moist during the

growing period, otherwise it will run to seed soon after

planting, and the crop will be lost, All suckers which appearmust be carefully removed. Carefully hoe to suppress theweeds.

In order to obtain well-blanched stems, the Celery must, beearthed up. , Let this he done when full growth is attained,otherwise rot may set, in. Whilst, the plants are growingonly a, small quantity of soil should be put on the top ofthe mots to replace any which ma,y have become washeddown. Choose fine weather for all earthing operations. In the

morning stir and break up the soil with a, horse-hoe andhand labour j allow it to remain exposed to the air, as drysoil is necessary for this work. Late in the day earth upby hand, or with a mould board plough. At the first earthingthe soil is only placed to within a, few' inches of the plants,so as to allow a, hollow for watering. At the next operationthe soil is placed firmly around the base. From two to three

earthings ma,y be necessa�ry, and care must be taken not

to allow the soil to' get down into the heart. of the plants.Only a moderate quantity of earth should be ridged up at

each operation. After the final earthing no, more water can

be given. In an cases keep the heart of the plant wellabove the ridges, and at the last earthing finish off smoothlywith a, spade. Water about twice a week in dry weather, 0'1'

once ma.y be enough when sunless.To. prevent the soil getting into and injuring the hearts

of the plants, the leaves are sometimes drawn closely togetherand tied with bast or twine. This is a. slow business in the

ordinary way. A rapid and excellent plan is practised bythe American growers. A round tin capable of holding a

ball of twine, and with a, hole in the bottom end to allowthe end of the twine to pass. through, is fixed to, a; Sh01i, piece.of wood. The contrivance is then strapped to the operator's

GLOBE AR'TICHOKE. 25

right hand, and commencing at one end of a, row the twineis rapidly wound round plant after plant till the row is com

pleted. The accompanying sketch will show how the thingis, done.

AMERICAN MODE OF TYING GE.LERY.

MAltKE'l'ING.-The heart should be quite white before

marketing, and the aim should be to obtain solid, crisp heads.When ready for market remove some of the leaves with a

bagging hook or knife; open a trench at the end of the row,and lift carefully with a fork placing it well under the rootsso' as to avoid injury. Trim the roots and stems, wash, andsort in sizes. Arrange in rolls or bundles, each containingfrom eight to> twelve heads according to size, and bind withwithes. Early diggings rea.lise the best prices.

PESTs.-The most troublesome and injurious pest to the

Celery crop is the Celery Fly Maggot, an illustration and

description of which is given further on. Other pests are

slugs, snails, and canker.

Globe Artichoke.:_This vegetable is very largely cultivated in France, but in this country its use is limited. Beinga native of Northern Africa. it requires plenty of sun in orderto bring it to perfection. Au aspect must be chosen to. meetthis requirement if good results are looked for. The flowerhead and receptacle are the parts of the plant prepared fortable, and they are eaten either cooked or raw. With care

they may be had from July to November, and form an

excellent addition to the ordinary vegetables then in season.


Only a small portion of each head is edible-s-that is to say, thebase of the scales, and the lower portion of the head, and

they must be considered rather as, a, delicacy than. a substantial dish. As the demand is by no means great, and itis not everyone who appreciates them,

_

some estimate of

probable requirements should be made, before taking up theircultivation. The returns are usually very good, and providinga ready sale can be effected they are profitable to cultivate.In any case only a small area should be occupied with this

THE GLOBE ARTICHOKE.

Gl'OP, as it is advisable to make periodical renewals of the

plants 011 fresh soil. -

VAHIETIEs.-LaTge Green is a fairly hardy kind, of vigorousgrowth, and medium in height. The scales are very fleshy, andon this account can be recommended. The stem receptacle isalso broad and thick. Purple Globe is a, good variety.

SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION.-A rich, deep, sandy loam is

best, although a wide variety of soils is suitable, providedthat they are rich and well cultivated. The aspect shouldface south so as to obtain as much sun as possible, and thearea be

'

well drained. The position should be open. Deep

GLOBE ARTICHOKE. 27

cultivation is necessary, and all clods must be thoroughlybroken up. A humid soil, such as is. often found a,t the bottomof valleys, is very suitable, but it must not bel water-logged.Well and deeply plough the ground in the autumn, and leavein ridges during the winter so as to receive the action ofthe winter frosts. Clayey, stiff soils must not. be used fOT this

crop, nor ground which readily holds water. In the springharrow down level, and mark Gut in rows four feet apart,'ready for planting out in May.

MANURES.-Well-rotted stable dung is best for Artichokes.An application should be made in the autumn at the rate offrom thirty to forty tons per acre, and afterwards ploughed in.New manure must not be employed, particularly if containingmuch straw. The latter class of dung will be likely to, ,causedisease. In order to' secure manure in the proper state a

large heap should be formed some months prior to use, andthe work of fermentation allowed to' proceed in a thoroughmanner prior to application to the ground. A good formof .artificial and dung manure is as follows :-In the autumn

apply from fifteen to twenty tons per acre of well-rottedmanure, and plough in. In the winter one hundredweight peracre of kainit should bel sprinkled on the surface, and harrowedin, and three hundredweights of superphosphate of lime

applied in the spring, about March. One month after planting out dress. with two hundredweights of nitrate of soda peracre. The latter should be applied during or just before

showery weather.

SOWING THE' SEED.-Seed may be sown for Artichokes, butthe best results are obtained by planting out offshoots, Sowin gentle heat in February or March in light, rich soil, verythinly, then prick out to one inch apart. Give air freely,. andalso water as required. Gradually harden off ready for plant".ing out in May. One ounce of good seed will provide aboutfour hundred. plants. Sometimes these plants will yield inthe autumn of the first year, but varieties do not always come

true from seed.

PROP.A.GATION by offshoots or suckers is most generally pre-


ferred, and will also secure true sorts. On examination itwill be found that the old stools produce offshoots undergroundnear the neck. Uncover them in the spring, and cut .awaysome or the shoots, leaving a few of the largest remaining.Trim and plant out, in the field in rows four feet apart, andthe plants three feet distant in the rows, Plant firmly witha. dibber, but not deeply. The first, hatch of plants may be

put out in March, and a, further lot for a successional supplyplanted in Ma,y. Seedlings may also be dibbled in the open'ground in May. Lift carefully with a fork, after having wellwatered the soil. All planting operations should be donein showery weather, or immediately afterwards,

GENERAL CULTURE.-As Artichokes are likely to suffer fromlack of moisture during the hot months, the ground must bewell stirred, and a, layer of crumbly soil formed on the surface.In a, very dry season a good mulch of manure should be

spread over the ground, after having hoed it well. Weedsmust be rigidly kept under. ,When the locality is very much ex

posed and cold, protection must be afforded during the winterwith litter 0'1' other material. In the southern counties the

plants hardly needxthis, and they may be earthed up withsoil before the arrival Oof severe weather. Artichokes- shouldnot be retained after the third year, hut fresh areas shouldthen be in readiness for cutting from.

MARKETING.-The stems which have borne the heads shouldbe cut down close to the ground to encourage suckers. Marketthe Artichokes leaving an inch or SOl of stem attached tothem. Cutting should take place as required, before fullymaturing as' they are then much more tender, and or goodflavour, Artichokes should be forwarded in as fresh a stateas possible. Pack in baskets, placing a, light covering ofsoft material OIlY the top. They are SOlId by the dozen, andthe number in the basket should be clearly stated,

PEsTs.-The Cockchafer is sometimes troublesome by feeding on the roots. Wireworms, too, are partial to, the roots,and a fungus occasionally attacks the crowns, and causes muchloss. See Pests and Diseases further 'on.

KIDNEY BEAN.

Kidney Bean.-This is also, known as the French or

. Dwarf Bean, and constitutes a, valuable crop for the' market

gardener. Originally a native of South America, their cultivation in this country can only be carried on out of doors

during the mild season of the. year. They are of very rapidgrowth, and give prompt returns to. the grower. The market

prices also are naturally gOOld, particularly if the, crop can

be put on the market at a suitable period. French Beans are

largely grown in France, and the southern parts of thatcountry are well adapted for raising the crop without difficulty.In this country their cultivation is not unattended with risk,arising from the delicate constitution of the plants. FrenchBeans will not stand frost, and should the season he late andunfavourable it is not unusual for the whole crop to' be lost.

Large quantities of this Bean are raised for piokling purposes',and certain varieties furnish the well-known Haricot Beans.As a rule the crop is raised during the early part of theseason before Scarlet Runner Beans can be had. As soon as

the latter come in, the demand for French Beans considerablyslackens. The crop ma,y be readily forced under glass, andat one period large quantities used to, he raised in this way.

VARIETIEs.-Extra Early, a good bearer, and very popular.Newington Wonder, and NegTo Long-podded are old varieties,but excellent in every way for market work. Both are veryproductive, and suitable for outdoor cultivation. CanadianWonder is a rather taller kind, but vigorous and a goodcropper. Other good sorts are :-Everbearing, an early bean,robust, and prolific j Pale Dun, a dwarf vigorous kind jWilliams? Earliest of All, and Wythes' Improved! Mohawk. Thelatter grows nearly two feet high, produces broad; fleshy podsof excellent flavour.

SOIL AND ITS PREPARATloN.-French Beans require the best

soil in .th� sunniest position of the market garden. Protectionshould, if possible, be afforded on the north and east sides byhigh ground, etc. 'The soil must be rich, and preferably one

which has been highly cultivated for previous crops. GQoddrainage is essential. Early in the autumn the area shouldbe deeply ploughed, and the ridges left exposed to the frost


DWARF FRENCH BEAN-WYTHE'i:l IMPROVED MOHAWK.

KIDNEY BEAN. 31

during winter, As a fine tilth from the surface downwards is

quite necessary, the land must be worked or rolled until thisis obtained. Sometimes a, second ploughing is performed to

secure a, satisfactory soil. In the following April level andmark out in rows two feet, six inches apart ready for

sowing. When choosing a, situatiorn for this crop the aspect,although protected on the cold quarter, should not be shadedin any way by trees or hedges, as the beans require freeaccess of light and air.

MANURES.-Sta,ble- dung is excellent for this crop, providedthat it be in a, thoroughly decomposed form, and also appliedearly in the season. FJ!'Om twenty to thirty tons per acre isa good dressing, but care must be taken not to give an

excessive quantity, otherwise the plants will make too much

foliage. The manure should be spread over the area earlyin the autumn, previously to' ploughing, and be well turned in.When dealing with land in good heart, the following dressingof artificials is recommended :-Apply previous to ploughingfrom eight to ten hundredweights of basic slag per acre ; inMarch or April sprinkle from four to. five hundredweights of

superphosphate of lime per acre, and hoe or harrow in when

levelling the ground; Four weels after sowing the, seed applyone hundredweight of nitrate of soda, per acre during, or im-

mediately previous to', showery weather..

SOWING THE SEED.-The distances apart for sowing the seed

vary according to the nature of the soil and the variety grown.In some seasons the beans fail to come up. If the rows

are two' and a half feet asunder, and the seed sown aboutsix inches apart from seed to Reed, provision will be madefor any partial failure to germinate. The Beans may bedribbled in! about two inches deep, 0·1' drills drawn, and the

seed dropped in by hand at the required' distances. A seedmachine may also, be employed. Cover ill, and afterwardsmake firm by passing a light roller over the surface. Aboutone peck of seed will be required per acre. Choose a dry stateof the soil for this work.'

.

GENERAL CULTURE.-As the chief desideratum is to. get thirD

32 ASPARAGUS, ETC., FOR PROFIT.

crop in early, every effort should be made to push growth.

on as much as possible. As soon. as the plants are up an

idea can be formed of how much of the seed has germinated.Cutting out with the, hoe (if crowded) should. then commence,so that the permanent plants ultimately stand at from ten

to twelve inches apart, Let. the ground be frequently stirred,both with the hand and horse machines, Care must be takennot to, damage the young tops, as, they are easily broken on

account of their brittle character. No stakes are requiredfor this crop. The surface soil must not be allowed to, cake,and all weeds must he rigidly suppressed. When the plantsare from four to six indies high some, growersearth up slightlyto, afford protection.

MARKETING.-If the season be favourable, and the land

good, the plants will bear very rapidly. Considerable attentionmust be given to prompt, picking. If the pods are allowedto remain too long, the plants cea.se tOo bear, besides whichthe Beans being tough are not desirable. On an extensivearea a considerable number 0.£ pickers will be required, and-i;he more frequently gathered the larger the yield. As these

early Beans are somewhat choice they should be carefullypicked in peck baskets, the latter being lined with blue

papel', and the produce COVel sd with it; in the top a layerof soft, hay or grass is placed. Secure the latter with wooden

spl inths. The crop should come in, and, if possible, thebulk of it be marketed before the appearance of ScarletRunners.

Pssra==Red Spider is often troublesome in dry weather.The Pea. Weevil and Pea Beetle also attack both the podsand the seeds. See Pests a.nd Diseases further on for remedies.

FORCED FRENCH BEANs.-These will pay tOI grow in earlycucumber-houses, or wherever there is a temperature of sixtyto seventy degrees maintained. They come in as a profitable"ca.tch crop." The cost of production is not very great inthis case, being merely labour and seed; the carriage is a.

very small item. The fire heat would have to be found forthe Cucumbers whether the Beans were grown or not. Beans

KIDNEY BEAN. 33

at the end of February and the beginning of March will fetchwholesale from 28. to 28. 6d. per pound, and at the latter

part of March and beginning of April from Is. tOI Is. 6d.It is very strange that early Beans: at the higher price, andlater Beans at the lower, bring in just about the same. return,the crop being lighter with the early ones. From a, twelvefoot wide house and one hundred feet long, with four rows

of Beans, from seventy-five to' one hundred pounds of Beanshave been gathered. In a fifteen-foot house', the same length,with eight rows of Beans, twice the weight. The moneyreturned for the smaller houses worked out on an average·at £5 per house, and in the larger houses at, £10 per house.

The Bean seed should be sown a, fortnight after the Cucumberseed. Any soil will do, to sow in, but if a little sifted manure

be put into the bottom of the boxes, the roots, will ramify in

this, and the plants will transplant better. Boxes fifteeninches by seven inches by one and a half inches deep are

good ones in which to sow. Put, about forty Beans in eachbox. When the seed is sown, saturate the soil with water

the same day, and again the next day, for Beans absorb a

lot of water, and then place the boxes. in the same house as

the Cucumbers are being raised ill. See that plenty of wateris given, and in a few days the Beans will be up. Keep themnear the glass, or they will get drawn badly, and, if poseible,put either into. a little cooler temperature, or at the coolerend of the Cucumber house.

Beans raised as above should be ready for planting aboutthe same time as the Cucumbers, but if put in a few daysbefore so much the better. The pipes in a Cucumber house are

generally arranged with flows running up the outside, andtwo returns about a yard in front of the flows, a path upthe centre. If this. is the arrangement, then a, row of Beanswill be planted each side of the two, returns, or four rows inall. To prepare the soil for the Beans, put a layer of well

decayed stable manure where each row will be planted, andon the top of this put three pounds of basic slag and two

pounds of ikainit to every hundred feet run of row. Dig thewhole in, taking care to mix well with the soil.

D 2


The great art in planting Beans is to do it at the exactmoment when required. One day too long and the crop willnot be half so. good. The moment arrives when the seedleaves are 'Only half developed; better too early than too

late, and this is one reason why everything ought to be gotready -beforehand. In planting stretch a, line the whole lengthof the, row, and' plant the Beans. four inches apart. Whenthe work is finished give a, good watering, and after thiswater only as required. When the Beans are a, foot highplace a few small stakes each side of' the row, and tie a, stringto them to' keep the Beans from falling all over the place,As soon as the first flowers begin to open water at eachalternate watering with weak liquid manure, or, what is better,mix together one part. of nitrate of soda and two parts superphosphate, using one ounce to a, gallon of water. Sulphateof ammonia may take the place of the nitrate, 0'1' instead ofthe above mixture, one ounce of Peruvian guano may be putinto. the water. When the soil in the house is not of a

suitable nature the Beans must be grown in pots 0·1' boxes.No, 24's will hold three plants, and No. 16's five plants.

The picking should take place when the Beans are fullyformed. Do not pick too. early, and, on the other hand, nottoo late, Experience will soon teaoh when they are ready.Overhandle baskets are the best, for Beans. Line the insidewith blue tissue paper, and then as the Beans .are pickedplace them in neatly. Put a piece of paper over the top andlace them in with raffia.

The best sorts t,Ql grow for forcing are Ne Plus Ultra andOsborne's Foroing.

Pea.-Although sometimes stated to be a native ofSouthern Europe, the origin of this vegetable is unknown.Few kinds of produco are more popular with the public, andfor tender, well:grown Peas there is always a keen demand.The first open air cro·ps come in during the early summer.

The cultivation is not difficult, and the plants yield a, fairlyquick return from the period of sowing the seed to gathering.In this respect they occupy an important and valuable posi-

PEA. 35

tion for market work. In the vicinity of the metropolis, andother large towns, immense areas are placed under cultivationeach season. For market purposes, however, certain conditions

-apart from good crops-must. be present in order to' secure

satisfactory profits. A very extensive number of varieties is

known, and many of them have been considerably improvedduring recent years. In addition to the table kinds', Peasare much used for feeding animals, 8J!d special sorts are raisedfor this purpose. On the Continent a certain variety of ex

cellent flavour is cultivated for eating, in which the pod isconsumed as well as the seeds. In this country the contents

only of the shells are used for culinary purposes, the, podsof our varieties being tough. As Peas, when gathered fromthe plants, are exceedingly perishable, they should be raisedwhere facilities exist for rapid marketing from the field. Theyalso need frequent picking, and a large number of handswill be required on extensive holdings. The crop will notstand long, and if la.bour be not forthcoming at the rightperiod the Peas will be spoiled on the plants.

VAlUETIEs.-Tall-growing sorts must not be selected forfield culture, as they require staking. The following are suitable for market work :-Ameer, an early Pea of superiorquality, very prolific and of good colour. Earliest of All, an

excellent early blue Pea; grows about two and a, half feet

high; very prolific, and the quality is good. Eclipse, or

Alaska, a very popular variety, attains two and a half feet.Gradus, a very large-podded early Pea of the wrinkled kind,of excellent flavour; must be grown on soil in good heart.William I., an early green marrow Pea, with fine, long, wellfilled pods. Duke of Albany grows five feet, and is a first ratemain crop Pea. .Yorkshire Hero, reaches three feet, an ex

cel1ent wrinkled main crop Pea. Telegraph, a heavy bearerof large pods in mid-season. Gladiator, a wrinkled main cropkind; grows three feet, very robust, and a good bearer ofexcellent Peas, Eureka, three feet, is also a good main cropvariety.

SOIL �""D ITS PREPARATION.-Poor ground is unsuitable for

GOOD MAIN·CHOP PEA, ElJltEKA.


Peas. The soil must be well drained, deeply worked, andrich. For the main crops a somewhat. stiff loam is desirable,whilst for the early produce a lighter texture should be pr(}vided in a sunny position. The best ground is that. whichhas received liberal treatment for the previous crops; such,for instance, as' Cabbages, so' that no. great quantity of dungmanure is, needed for the Peas, Plough or trench the land

early in the autumn, and leave the ridges exposed throughthe winter to become sweetened by the frost. A fine tilthis very essential, and the soil must' be worked and re-workeduntil this is obtained. The aspect. should be sheltered for the

early crops. Choose dry weather in January, harrow down,level, and mark out in rows two and a, half feet. distant, readyfor sowing.

MANURES.-A great quant it.y of stable manure is not desir-,able, as the crop is liable to, run away to leaf rather thanbear pods. The following artificial manures. ma,y be given:Previous to ploughing in' the autumn, sow from eight to ten

Iiundredweighta of basic slag and two hundredweights, of kainit

per acre. In the spring, alter the crop is. up, scatter, on a

still day, from tree to five hundredweights of superphosphateof lime, and hoe in. When f1 few inches high dress with one

hundredweights of nitrate of soda per acre during or just before

showery weather. When dung is necessary, it should on no

aocount be fresh, but, be well' decomposed. Plough inas long a period as possible before sowing the ground withPeaa, and turn it in: v6ry deeply. Apply from eight to, ten

tons per acre, In the spring dress with the superphosphateof lime and nitrate of soda. as above given. Lime is- an

essential element for Peas, and when deficient, chalk should be

supplied at from three to five tons per acre,

'SOWING 'l'HE SEED.--F'or market garden work, the seed issown in. its permanent, quarters, Take care tha.t the soil isin a thoroughly friable state, On large areas a Pear-strike, OT

special sowing machine, is usually employed for the work.

Only a moderate area of one sort should be sown at eachtime, and from two t'l three. bushels of seed will be required

PEA. 39

per acre. Sow thinly, about three inches deep. The Pea.sshould be from one and a half to' two inches apart, but forthe later crops some allow three. inches. In February succes

sional sowings may he made of Eclipse, Gradus, William 1.,and Telegraph, or others, and during April a further sowing of,say, Yorkshire Hero, Duke of Albany, or similar late Peas.An alternative plan, and one most usually adopted, is tosow early and mid-season crops about the same time-sayat the end of January-and they usually bear in succession.If the weather be fine, the drills may be left open for a short

period before covering in. Afterwards roll with a light roller.

GENERAL CULTURE.-As soon a.s'the Peas are up they shouldbe edge-hoed; afterwards the ground in the centres must be

kept well stirred. When the haulm grDwS long enough letit all be laid over on one side of the row. The light and airwill reach the plant more readily, aid them in productiveness,and the crDp be more easily picked. Weeds, must be, keptunder, particularly during the early period. The hand hoeingclose round the, base of the plants, and the horse hoeing upthe rows, must be performed whilst the growth is short. Asthe crop is a, quick one every effort should be made to. keepit growing, and in a dry season the plants are much aided

by moving the soil surface. Sometimes birds and insects

materially damage the early crops by eating the seed. Onthis account earlier sowings than January are not advisablefor market work.

MARKETING.-As· soon as the pods have swelled sufficientlypicking should take place. Tender Peas are much appreciated.The crop rapidly matures, and gatherings must be frequent,say abo-tit every second or third day. Old Peas fetch bad

prices, and become worm-eaten through remaining on the

plants. On account of the rapidity with which the cropbears quick picking is essential, and must be followed byprompt marketing. These two matters constitute the factorsin successful disposal of the produce apart from the questionof cultivation, a.nd unleSs they can be satisfactorily dealtwith in this respect Peas had better not be grown exten-

40 ASPARAGUSt ETC.t FOR PROFIT.

sively. Pack in bushel baskets, the pods being quite cleanand free from twigs, leaves, etc. Cover with freshly-cut grassto, keep cool, and secure with wooden splinths, The more

frequently the plants are picked the greater the yield.Pasrs.c-Theee are uuuierous, the chief insect enemies heiug

the Pea, Beetle, Pea, Weevil, Pea Moth, Pea, Midge, and

Aphides j and the Pea, Spot, Seedling Pea, Blight, and Pea,Mildew among fungi. All are described under Pests andDiseases.

PE1\.S UNDER GLASS.-It, is not generally known that goodpaying �rops of Peas can be grown under glass. We do not

mean to say that it would prove a, profitable business to

grow Peas in small structures, and on a small 80:11e, but it

ma,y be done in those leviathan structures that, are built

nowadays for gra,pe culture. Such structures remain practically empty from the time the grapes are cut until new

growth begins in spring. "Why not, turn them to. profit bygrowing a crop of early Peas 1 "-w:J.s, the thought that occurredto a, market grower of our acquaintance, The crop wouldnot injure the vines, would require no fire heat, and not a

great deal of attention.The problem was thought out and put into practice. The

experiment was tried in a, vinery thirty feet wide. The vineswere pruned in December, the borders forked up an"tl givena. dressing-of artificial manure, and Dwarf Peas sown in drillstwo feet apart.

'

When the. Peas germinated, the soil was

given an ocoasional hoeing and watering, and by the timethe vines began to break, the former were in bloom. A goodset followed, and a, fine crop of pods were ready for marketingfrom the end of April tal May. The pods were gatheredcarefully so' as to preserve their "bloom," packed neatly in

pink paper-lined baskets, and sent thus to, market where theyrealised Is. to Is. 6d. per pound.

The followiug yeaJ' other vineries and tomato houses. were

cropped thus with equally good results. In the larger houses,in fact, tall varieties, like Duke of_ Albany, Gradus, and EarlyMorn, each properly staked .• were grown with marked success.

RHUBARB. 41

The chief points to bear in mind are tosow in December,supply liberally with water, and to, give ample ventilation.Our friend still follows this practice, and has netted a, goodmany pounds without doing any injury to his. vines.

EARLY OUTDOOR CRoPs.-Small holders who are able to findlocal customers willing to' truIte Peas early in June at a

fair price would find it, 'a, good plan to cut so-me strips. ofturf six inches wide, make a V-shaped groove on the, under

side, sow Peas in this, and cover 'with a little light soil,afterwards placing the turves in a cold frame. Or, a, coupleof narrow strips of wood might be nailed lightly a.t right anglesto form a, V-shaped trough, some soil put in, then the seeds,and a. little more soil, afterwards placing them ill the frame.Still another plan would be to, sow two or three seeds ill a

three-inch pot filled with turfy soil, and put in the frame.The. latter • should be kept closed, and covered with mats

till the seeds sprout, then give air and light, also, water as

needed. Sow at the end of January. When the seedlings are

a couple of inches high, open shallow drills in the garden,place the turves in this and cover with soil. In the case 0'£the wooden troughs, ca,l'I'Y them to the drills, gently pull themasunder, leaving the Peas in the drills, which fill with mould.Those in pots sho-uld be carefully turned out, and plantedfairly close together. After planting, mould up each side o.fthe plants and stake, then a crop will be obtained much earlierthan in the ordinary way.

Rhubarb.-This vegetable occupies a prominent placeamong the market garden crops. It is one of the earliest ofour outdoor fruits, and is very welcome. Large areas-e-run

ning into many hundreds of acres-are under cultivation inthe Midland counties, and considerable quantities are sent tomarket each season. As a valuable fruit its J)osition cannotbe gainsaid. For table the leaf stalks only are eaten, and

they often reach sixteen inches in length. 'I'he root is possessed of important medicinal properties. Rhubarb is muchused both in this country and the United States, but on theContinent it is not much in favour, and in some parts is

42 ASPARAGUS, ETC.,' FOR :PROFIT.

almost unknown. It is a most accommodating plant, is hardyin constitution, and the cultivat.ion is easy. The crop is

practically a permanent one, and, when the crowns are planted,gatherings may be obtained for some period prior to renewalof the i>ld stools. Rhubarb may be easily forced, and veryla�ge quantities are raised in heated structures, 0'1' by othermethods for the early markets, and this branch of the industryis greatly on the increase.· Under these circumstances forcedRhubarb can be had in the depth of winter when the supplyof ordinary fruits is scarce, and it forms all. agreeable changeto. the dried and foreign fruits which are then in season. Adarkened place supplied wi th heat is necessary for forcing.

�C;4:POBUNDLE OF FOHCED CHAMPAr.NE RHUBARB.

VARIETIE$.-The varieties raised for market include some

of the choicest kinds. Albert is a very early sort of excellentflavour. Champagne, also an early kind, yields large stalks,deep crimson in colour, and of very fine flavour ; it is a greatfavourite with market growers. Linneeus comes in as a second

early, is a vigorous grower, of good quality, bearing dark

green sticks. Victoria is useful for late gatherings, bell'S red

stalks, very thick, and of good quality.SOIL .A.:.'W ITS PREPARATION.-A diversity of soils will grow

Rhubarb, but a fairly light, deep, rich loam is most suitablefor this orop. It must be well drained, and in a somewhatsheltered position. Rhubarb is often grown· between fruittrees. High cultivation is necessa.ry in order to obtain pro�fitable results. Water-logged soils must be a.voided for this

crop. The ground should be deeply ploughed early in the

RHUBARB. 43

a .tumn after applying a. good dressing of manure. A fine. tilthis essential, and an clods must, be broken up. Leave, the

rough ridges exposed to) the frost throughout the winter, andin the early spring haJ.'TOW down and level. Mark o,ff in I'O<WS

for the Champagne variety, two and a half feet each way,and for the other kinds allow three and a half feet.

MANURES.-Well-rotted stable dung is the best form ofmanure, and an abundant supply is necessary. From thirtyto forty tons per acre should be worked in the soil a,t ploughing time, so> that it may become well incorporated with it

previous to, planting. Apply in the spring, before harrowing,five hundredweights of superphosphate of lime per acre. Ifthe ground be deficient in lime, an application of basic slagmay be made with advantage. Previous to ploughing applyfrom five to eight hundredweights per acre im the early winter,the quantity of well-rotted manure given at the same time

being from fifteen to twenty tons per acre. In the, springdress with three hundredweights of superphosphate of lime

per acre. This is an excellent combination, and is rathermore eoonomioal. than many forms of manure. For aftercultivation a liberal dressing of well-decomposed stable manure

should be worked in betwen the crowns each winter, or a

dressing of dung and basic slag may be given, applying inthe spring superphosphate of lime in the above proportions.

SOWING THE SEED.-Rhuba.rb is not, usually raised from seed.Sow. thinly on a rick, well-dug seed-bed early in October inshallow drills, two feet six inches apart. As soon as largeenough thin out to one foot apart, and allow the plants toremain until rea.dy for planting out in their permanentquarters,

PROPAGATION' BY DIVISION OF ROOTS.-This is the more

general method of propagation, and oflers many advantagesover seed sowing. The root should be out in pieces with a

sharp knife, each piece carrying with it a crown. Plantationsmay also be formed by obtaining strong roots in the firstinstance, and planting them direct in their permanentquarters.


PLANTING OUT.-This should be done whilst the plants are

dormant. During the latter part, of the winter, or the lateautumn is generally chosen. The crown should not be buriedt.oo deeply, otherwise rot ma.y set in by reason of the rainHOot being drained awa,y. Plant SOl that the topmost budwill be about two, inches deep. After planting press the soil

pretty firmly round the roots. In performing this operationcare must be taken not toO break the roota. About 7,000crowns per acre will be required a,t two feet six inches apart,and 4,500 crowns per acre should he provided for the widerdistances.

GENEHAL CUI:fURE.-Mter planting, the surface soil shouldbe lightly hoed in order to' prevent it caking. Weeds mustbe suppressed, and frequent stirring of the soil is desirableto promote growth as much as possible. In hoeing betweenthe stools be careful not to injure them or they will be liableto rot, Crowns intended for forcing should be well fed withmanure. All seed spikes must be removed as soon as theyE'.ppear. If the plants are allowed to. seed they will becomeexhausted. In the winter, after digging, and before growthcommences, cover the ground with litter in order to protectthe crowns, and bring them on early..

FORCING.-A moderate temperature is required, and if a

darkened mushroom house be available good results can besecured. Forcing in the dark causes superior quality. Levelthe border of the house and beat firmly. Lift the strongestcrowns of the second or third year's grOowth, and pack them

closely together on the border, first trimming, the' crowns ofthe coarser shoots, Work fine, rioh, soil between the roots,enough being used to' be nearly level with 'the crowns. Maintain a. steady temperature of from fifty-five to' sixty degrees.Keep moist by watering. Batches should be placed in heatas required,' the first being introduced about the middle 01'

end of October.Rhubarb. ma.y also be forced in the open ground by means

of fermenting materials, comprising stable manure and fallentree leaves. In the case of thick rows of some length, heat

RHUBARB. 45

is applied by digging a, trench on each side of the row, fillingit with fermenting material, after the crowns have beencovered with pots, tubs, boxes, or an improvised open workconstruction made of laths, each of which should have sufficient capacity within for the full grOowth of the leaves. Thenthe trench is filled with the material, a few inches thickness

being extended over the coverings, so that the material ofboth trenches meets, In instances where the crowns growseparately, then each has to be covered and fermentingmaterial laid over the whole space of ground and over the

coverings, by which means the heat is! forced downwards, tothe root base. A desirable heat for trenches as ahove is

seventy-five degrees, but seventy degrees will be amplewarmth, as regards material placed over the ground, as in allcases a warmth of fifty-eight to' sixty degrees should not beexceeded in actual contact with the, gro{ving leaves.

The above method of forcing is not advised in a generalW3Y, as. it is expensive and laborious, though occasions ma,yarise in conjunction with existing roots in the ground whereit may be desirable to put it into practice. It is not advisedto make plantations for this purpose. A better plan for

growing Rhubarb early upon the ground is the following.Its merits are :-(a.) The roots are not injured or destroyedby digging them up for forcing; (b) the place is not very ex

pensive ; and (c) the produce is superior, and, consideringgood prices obtain for so long a time, suffices for all practicalpurposes. With the longest thin-sawn laths procurable, andsomewhat thicker uprights, make a frame work some two, anda half to three feet high, and as wide as the crowns of the

plants. It might be somewhat wider at the bottom thanthe top, with the laths only sufficiently close together to keeprough manure from falling through, Early in February fixthese over the rows, and cover them with a couple of inchesthickness of long litter. Rows to be grown for this purposemay be planted at two feet distances between the plants.

For a later supply, large pots or headiess small barrels

may be placed over the crowns in January or February, andthese covered with hot dung and leaves. Again, by covering

46 ASPARAGUS,' ETC., FOR PROFIT.

the crowns with a foot of dry litter in February, a still later

sup_ply may be obtained.Some customers prefer their forced Rhubarb with as full

a colour as possible. In this. case forcing under glass shouldnot be carried out in darkness, but in full light. The Cham

pagne variety does well forced thus.

GATHERING THE CltoP.-Care must be taken in gathering notto injure the crown, the aim should be to, pull the stalk awayquite clean, arid this can only be attained by practice, Selectthe most forward stalks, and not more than from thirty to

forty per cent. should be taken from each plant. If too' manystalks be· pulled the crowns will bel permanently injured.Gathering should continue throughout the season,' but, as' thechoicer classes of fruit come in, the demand for Rhubarb will

gradually diminish.

MARKETING THE CRop.-The early forced produce ismarketed in small bundles. The sticks should be gradedaccording to size, and from six to eight or ten will beincluded in each bundle, according to the season and thedimensions of the sticks. For the outdoor produce, the sizeof the bundles varies considerably, according to, the lengthof the produce. The leaves should be trimmed, and thesticks pla,ced all one way, and bound together with withes.

PESTs.-The Rhubarb fortunately has not many enemies.Snails and Slugs and Woodlice attack the young growths, and

Wireworms, and the Rot, 0.1' Canker the roots. For a description. of all these see special section dealing with Pests.

Ridge Cucumber.-This is a, hardy kind of Cucumberwhich may be cultivated in the open air. Large quantitiesare raised in certain localities for the market, but the produceis not by a.ny means comparable with the glasshouse varieties,They are veI'Y tender, and should the season prove unfavourable the crop will not he successful. Their cultivation: shouldnot be undertaken in exposed situations, and "the northerncounties are generally unsuited for this purpose, except, Possibly, a. few well-favoured localities which are exceptionallj

RIDGE CUCUMBER�;,;' i .t , ,'::,,' 47� IJ..J : : Q � , ')c Il 1

�

I ,:) II ):�. dry and warm. They need a warm, very sunny aspect, and a

dry soil, The least frost or excess of wet will prove fatal.Under these circumstances it will be judged that they are a

more than usually speculative crop to grow. The.y should

only be raised when the most favourable conditions are present,and then only to a limited extent. Protection must beafforded during the early stages of growth. The price ofindoor Cucumbers has declined very much during recent years,and that class of produce i� far superior to the outdoor crop.Considerable quantities of outdoor Cucumbers are used for

pickling, and they are very suitable for that purpose.

VARIETIEs.-There is not a great number of varieties. Bedfordshire Prize is a large and prolific kind, and one of themost suitable for open air. Stockwood Ridge is a. varietywhich attains from ten to fifteen inches in length. Wood's

Ridge, King of the Ridge, and Evesham, are much grownin certain localities.

SOIL AND ITS PREPAUATION.-A rich, warm soil is necessaryfor this crop, and the situation should be sheltered on thenorth and east, and must be sunny. Choose a. good sandy loamwhich is well drained. Cold and heavy soils are unsuitablefor outdoor Cucumbers. The moot favoured position in themarket garden should be given to this crop. Plough or digthe area. deeply in the early winter, and leave the roughenedsurface exposed until the spring. A fine tilth is essential, andthe land must be worked and re-worked until this is attained.The best soil is that which has had liberal treatment all

along. Ridge Cucumbers may be raised over beds of fermentedmaterial during the early part of the season, or later plantingsmay be made in ordinary good soil which has been wellmanured. In the first instance, beds should be formed bydigging out a. foot or a foot and! a hal.f- depth of soil, and

filling it in with fermenting material. Tread firmly, andcover over with six or seven inches of fine soil ready for

sowing the seed or planting out, This preparatory workshould be completed by the middle of May. All weeds mustbe destroyed.

E

48 ',,", .: ,:ASJZP:R�GUS, ETC., FOR PROFIT.;' c � � ('

\. t• l ,; c

MANUREs.-Well-rotted stable manure is best for this crop,and heJ,VY dressings will be required. From forty to fiftytons per acre should be ploughed or dug in the ground early inthe winter. When forming beds, the manure should be ina fermenting condition so that it will generate a gradualbottom heat for a considerable period. If leaves, cuttingsand other material' can be mixed with it the reaults will beenhanced. Many growers are content to put the plants out illwell-manured ground, but successful crops can only be obtained

by exceptionally liberal treatment. As the crops commence

to fruit a good top-dressing of artificial manures should be

employed as follows :-Apply four hundredweights of superphosphate of lime and two' hundredweights of sulphate ofammonia per acre. The mixture should be hoed in. Analternative top-dressing consists of thoroughly decomposedstable manure which should be spread on the surface roundthe roots after the vines commence to bear.

SOWING THE SEED.-The seed for the early crops should besown under glass, in heat, or on a. hotbed, and the plantsafterwards put out. Prepare a compost of turfy loam, spentmanure, and \ a little sand, putting plenty of crocks in thebottom to assist drainage. Sow in a. seed pan or tray early'in April, and when the first pair of rough leaves is formed

put into three-inch pots, us-ing the same compost, and puttingone plant in each pot, The. temperature should be from

sixty to sixty-five degrees. At the end of May, or early in

June, the plants should have filled the pots with. roots, andbe ready for planting out of doors after gradually hardeningoff ill a cold frame. Seed ma,y be sown out of doors in its

permanent quarters at the end of May. Place three Dr fourin a, clump together, covering them with boxes, flower pots,or haudlights until gcnniuaticn takes place, then uncover

during favourable weather, and replace at night until all

danger of frost is over when protection may be dispensedwith. One ounce of seed will produce about 700 plants.

PLANTING OUT.-The best results are obtained by plantingout strong, vigorous plants about the latter end of June.

RIDGE CUCUMBER. 49

At thac period no protection, will be necessary, and muchlabour is saved. Open the soil with a trowel, and turn the

plants out of the pot, taking care not to break the ball ofearth in SoO' doing. Insert in the hollow just below the surface,and well press the soil around j afterwards give a gentlewa.tering. The distances should be from three to, four or fivefeet apart from plant to plant each way. If Cucumbers are

put outside earlier than the end of June, protection must be

given for a week or two at 'night, and during cold weather, bymeans 0.£ boxes or inverted flower pots, etc.

GENER.AL CULTURE.-During the early stages the groundshould be hoed to keep down weeds, and also, to, stir thesurface, Gentle and thorough waterings will be required,particularly in a dry season. As the plan ts commence tocover the ground hoeing and other operations must cease.

Stopping is not usually resorted to with the outdoor varieties.When the plants have got a good start after planting outnot much attention is afterwards required. In the firstinstance the vines should be set out at regular spaces so

that they will not crowd together. Care must be taken not toover-feed with manure, otherwise a gross, woody developmentwill be produced, and not much fruit. Stimulants are bestwithheld until the vines commence to bear.

MARKETING.-In a favourable season cuttings will commence

from the middle of July until about the end of September.The plants should be gone over about twice a week, and thefruits removed as they mature. Cucumbers should not beallowed to remain long on the plants after they are fit formarket. They will reach about ten inches or a foot in length,but the growth is not often straight and shapely. Sort the

produce into two sizes, the "bootB" being those which are

straightest and largest, the remainder will come in as

"seconds." Pack the flat baskets lined with freshly-cut grass,or soft hay, and place a layer between eaoh row of fruit to prevent bruising in transit. A specified number should be included in each basket.

PEsTs.-Mildew is the most troublesome disease, and isE 2


caused through a drop in temperature, poor cultivation, or

excessive feeding. Red Spider, a very minute creature ofreddish colour, sucks the juice of the plant, and causes great·destruction, as it spreads very rapidly. Hot dry weather

brings an attack, Aphides, too" infest the plants. For reme

dies in each case see under Pes.ts and Diseases further on.

Runner Bean.-Runner Beans, or Scarlet Runners, ori

ginally came from Mexico, and form one of the inost important

CHAMPION SCARLET RUNNER BEAN.

of the summer market crops. Their popularity is undoubted,and there is always a good demand for young and tender

produce. Immense quantities are raised for the great centres

of population. The plants. are, under good cultivation, veryprolific, and of late, years there has been a tendency to over

stock the market with this. class. of produce. Unfortunatelysamples often reach the salesman which are old and tough, and-

RUNNER BEAN. 51

therefore unsaleable, except at a, reduced figure. This crop,like some others, needs a large. number of hands in the

picking season, and unless these be available at the propertime, and for moderate rates of wages, Scarlet Runners hadbetter not be, grown extensively. This class of vegetablegrows very quickly, and yields a rapid return to the, cultivator,In this respect they are very useful. Earliness in the market

produces the best prices, and Scarlet Runners usually com

pete very strongly with French Beans. The superior flavourof the former largely accounts for this. Two methods ofcultivation are much in use by market gardeners, namely,plants trained on stakes, and on the ground. Both have pointsin their favour according to, the end in view, and in some

establishments the two systems are in operation simultane

ously. The roots of this plant are poisonous.V.ARIETIEs.-Several varieties are grown, some of them being

suitable to particular localities. The following are· good formarket work. Ordinary Scarlet, bears good crops; ChampionScarlet, yields superior long, fleshy pods; Painted Lady, an

excellent and popular variety, the. blossoms being red and

white; Kentish Invicta, a fine, long bean; The Czar, producesvery large pods, thick and fleshy, the quality also is excellent;Titan, a good bean for size and productiveness; and Ne PlusUltra is a handsome and prolific variety.

SOIL .AND ITS PREP.AR.ATION.-A light, rich loam is best forthis crop. It must be 'Well drained, and deeply worked inorder to aid the roots to obtain moisture during a spell of

drought in the summer. Poor and shallow soils are notsuitable for raising Scarlet Runners. Plough the area deeplyin the early autumn after manuring, and allow the ridges to

stand throughout the winter. The soil must be worked into, a

fine state, as the roots are somewhat tender. The best landis that to' which high cultivation has been given for precedingcrops. The Scarlet Runner is a quick grower as well as a

groos feeder, and it needs abundant nutriment. 'I'owards theend of April the area. should be harrowed and levelled. Ifstaked or climbing beans are to be raised then mark out in


rows five feet apart; dwarf plants require lines only threeand a, half feet distant.

MANUREs.--These must be applied in a readily available

form, so that the plant, in. its rapid: grOowth may absorb them

easily. Apply from twenty to' thirty tons per acre of farmyardmanure. Rank or new stable dung must be avoided, and an

excess of manure will produce a leafy growth to the detriment-of the pods, The dung must be thoroughly rotted, and shouldbe applied in the early autumn at, ploughing time, and wellturned in so tha,t it will become incorporated with the soil.Provided that, the, land has been well treated with stable

dung for preceding crops, the following combination of artificials may be employed :-Apply, previous to ploughing, from

'eight to twelve hundredweights of basic slag per aere ; if the

quality of the land be very poor! then add three hundred

weights of kainit to' the. above. In the spring, when harrowing,scatter from three to five hundredweights of superphosphateof lime per acre, and six weeks after sowing the seed applyone hundredweight, of nitrate of soda per acre during or

immediately before rain.

SOWING THE SEED.-Some diversity of opinion exists regarding the distances apart for sowing the seed. Much wi�ldepend upon the quality of the soil, and also the particularseason. Should the weather prove unfavourable much of theseed may fail to germinate. To provide against this con

tingency a good plan is to sow thickly in the first instance,and, if necessary, thin out afterwards. About the end of

April, or the beginning of May, the seed may be sown fordwarf plants in rows from three to three and a half feet

apart, and the seed six inches distant in the rows. Fromone to three busliels of seed is required per acre. For

Climbing Beans, the rows; are five feet from one another, andsix inches from plant to. plant. in the lines; from one and a

half to two' bushels of seed per acre will be sufficient, in thisinstance. The seeds may.be dibbled in, or drills drawn aboutone inch deep. In the latter ease, after covering in, 1'011 witha. light roller. The whole Cl'Op is, sown at. one time.

RUNNER BEAN.' 53

GENERAL CULTURE.-As soon as the plants are throughhand hoeing should be performed, and when too crowded theymay be cut. out, leaving them at. the required distances apart.All weeds must be kept under. The ground should be, wellstirred up at the centres, whilst the plants are young, andthe work can be done without injury to them. A slightearthing up may be given early in the season to afford pro..

tection. For the dwarf crops, as soon as the plants commence

to make runners the latter must. be pinched out or cut o·ffwith a knife. This will keep the plants bushy, This formof cultivation has the advantage of earliness, though the plantsare oo't SOl prolific j the thick growth also protects' the groundfrom the sun, and helps to keep it moist, Hoeing round

the base of the plants must be frequently performed beforethe growth gets tOOl long. In the case of staked runners

a supply of sticks. will be necessary. They should be, abou.seven or eight feet long, and placed alternately fifteen inches

apart on either side of the row. As these, plants will beallowed to' run no stopping is required, but the, staking mustbe done at, an early stage, otherwise the runners. will become

entangled, and will not attach themselves to, the sticks. Inthe latter case 10'8s and expense will be incurred in placingthem by hand. Dry weather will often cause a number ofthe flowers to fail to set.

MARKETING THE CRop.-Scarlet Runners must be gatheredvery f:r�quently, generally every two or three days, The

pods soon become tough and stringy, and for these very poorreturns are obtainable j the market, in fact, does not wantthem. The more frequently the beans are gathered the

greater will be the yield. The produce is usually picked bywomen at piece-work rates.. See that the consignments are

free from twigs, leaves, eto. j pack in bushel and half-bushelbaskets. Place a layer of soft material over, and secure withsplinths. In this manner the beans will travel either by railor van. In order that the Beans may reach the market in a

fresh condition prompt transit is necessary.

PESTs.-These are much the same as those which attack

54 ASPARAGUSt ETC., FOR PROFIT.

the French or Kidney Bean, and the remedies given for thosepests apply in this case. Mildew is sometimes troublesome,and is caused through sudden changes ill temperature.

Sea-Kale.-This vegetable is found growing wild in

Europe, and is somewhat maritime in habit, As a market

garden crop it is most, valuable, and is largely cultivated in,this country, though in some parts of the Continent it is little

MARKET PUNNET OF EARLY SEA-KALE.

known. The stalks are used for table after blanchingjn thedark, and provide a choice dish. The flavour is very delicate,and by many is said to. be superior to that of Asparagus.The cultivation of Sea-Kale is comparatively simple, and largequantities are forced by artificial heat. FOol' market purposes,and the early winter trade, adequate conveniences should be

provided for forcing on a large scale, so' that the crop maybe obtained from the late autumn onwards. At that periodit is very welcome. Sear-Kale is largely eaten by the well-to-

SEA�KALE. 55

do, but there is no reason why its consumption should not bemore general. The blanching process is quite necessary, as

it adds considerably to. the flavour and 'tenderness of theshoots. The latter if exposed to the light become too. un

pleasant for eating. Blanching and forcing also take placeout of doors, and for this purpose Sea-Kale pots, and othermeans of protection are sometimes afforded. An outside area

is necessary in order to grow the plants ready for forcing.

:,' �_BASE OF PUNNET, SHOWING HOW THE PACKING IS DONE.

VARIETIEs.-Few varieties are used for market work. The

ordinary or common Sea-Kale is much employed in some parts.Lily White, a very superior kind, produces pure,' white

shoota, and is largely grown for market.

SOIL .AND ITS PREPARATION.-A good sandy loam is bestsuited for this crop. Richness is essential, and the area must

be well-drained, for, although a moisture-loving plant, no

stagnant water must be allowed to accumulate. For this

56 ASPARAGUS, ETC., FOR PROFIT

purpose the land must be deeply worked. An open situationis desirable in order to, bring the crowns on in a. vigorousmanner j at the same time it should be as. sunny as possible.After manuring, the area should be. deeply ploughed in the

early autumn, and the, furrows left open throughout the winter.In the early spring harrow down and level. All weeds, must

be rigidly suppressed, and the, ground made quite clean andfriable before planting. If the soil be particularly light, rollafter levelling, so as, to make it firm. Mark out in rows

one and a, half feet apart.MANuREs.-Liberal treatment, i.S: Y�qL �ec�"��ry �o:t; the

plants raised in the o�'en during the sl,1}r:w.h�.. V��tQ.�� crownsmean enhanced quality of the forced producq,.. W�l1-rottedstable dung is. the best kind of manure. Apply in the earlywinter, previous to ploughing, at, the rate of from twenty to

thirty tons per acre, and let it be deeply turned in. A goodcombination of artificials and dung is. as follows :-Apply, inthe early winter, before cultivating, from ten tOI fifteen '�onsper acre of well-rotted manure, and three hundredweightsor kainit, In the spring hoe or harrow in three hundred

weights of superphosphate of lime pel' acre. When kainit isnot employed 'an alternative dressing is ten hundredweightsof common salt per acre, applied in: the spring, previous to

planting.SOWING THE SEED.-This method is rarely adopted. So)"

in March on a rich seedbed which has been well dug over, andis quite clear of weeds. The drills should be eight '01" ninEinches apart and afterwards covered in with fine soil. Rol1the surface. As soon as the plants are up, hoe well, both tokeep dowrr the weeds, and to promote growth, Thin out,when large enough to handle, to about four inches apart.

PLANTING.-In March the seedlings should be planted outin the permanent quarters. Take care not to' break the rootswhen transplanting. Use a digging fork to raise them, andwell loosen the ground in the process. Tho plants shouldstand one foot six inches each way. Dibble them in.' in the

ordinary way, firmly pressing the soil around the roots ...

SEA�KALE. 57

GENERAL CULTURE.-The ground must be frequently and

thoroughly hoed, particularly in dry weather, and all weedsmust be destroyed. In the spring on a still day give a dress

ing of superphosphate of lime. All flower spikes must be, cut

away. If the plants are allowed to, flower the resulting cropwill be prejudiced. All side shoots must also be rubbed offfrom the main stems.

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGs.-The most general method of

raising Sea-Kale is from cuttings. In the autumn select clean,straight pieces from the root trimmings of the crowns. Each

cutting should be about six inches long, and rather less inthickness than the little finger. Mark the bottom end so

that it may be planted the correct way in the soil. For thispurpose the top may be trimmed at right angles, and thebottom diagonally. Tie in bundles of twenty-five, and burytwo inches deep in sand or ashes to' keep away frost, until

ready for planting. About the end of March plant the cuttingsin their permanent positions in straight rows OM foot sixinches apart each way. Dibble in and firmly close the soilaround the roots. About 20,000 cuttings are required peracre. Sea-Kale may also be propagated by division of the

crowns, or, in order to obtain a quick return where no stockis available, purchase well-grown roots in the autumn, and

plant out at above distances apart.

FORCING.-Prepare a dark, heated house, such as a mushroom house, by levelling the border, and mruking quite firm.Lift every third row of the outdoor crowns in batches, as re

quired, selecting only the best and strongest. This work maybe commenced as soon as the foliage has dropped off in theautumn. Trim the roots', and save them for making cuttings.Arrange the lifted crowns on the border, placing them uprightwith the roots almost touching one another. Beds from fourto five feet wide should be formed with a narrow path between

.

for convenience in cutting later on. Work fine soil between.the crowns until they are just covered. Well water afterwardsto settle the soil. As soon as growth commences a further

watering should be given. A steady temperature of from


fifty-five to sixty degrees should be maintained night and day.For the earliest crops sometimes sixty-five tOI seventy degreesis reached, but the great point is to keep it equable, Generallyspeaking from fOUT to six weeks is occupied from the timeof forcing to gathering the crop, and the time of introductionto the heated house will depend upon when the crop is re

quired. If the house be not sufficiently dark, the Kale willnot become well blanched. A layer of lo-ose soil or cocoanut-

FORCING SEAKALE OUTDOORS.

fibre refuse twelve inches deep may be put over the crowns

to effect this object. Batches should be forced in heat, inthis manner from the early winter until the following spring,when the alternate rows of the outdoor crop will commence

to come on. For the purpose of blanching. the latter, a ridgeof earth from six to nine inches deep should be thrown over

the remaining rows. This must take place before growthstarts. Pots or boxes may be placed over crowns out of

doors, and covered with fermenting manure in order to force

growth; overheating must, however, be avoided,

MARKETING THE CRoP.-Sear-Kale is on the market from

early in November onwards till the following spring. Cuttingsshould take place as soon as the tips begin to push throughthe covering of loose material over the crowns. Only thewhitest and cleanest produce should be forwarded to market,

VEGETABLE MARROW. 59

Any which has signs of e.xposure to' the light must. be rejectedas the flavour and quality are inferior. For the early con

signments punnets containing about two pounds of Sea-Kalemay be forwarded, and later on three pounds weight is theaverage. After washing, tie up, and pack carefully in blue

'paper in order to make as attractive as possible, and consignin the ordinary salesmen's boxes or baskets, carefully packedto prevent damage in transit.

PEsTs.-Sea-Kale is very free from pests". not in the outdoor crowns sometimes sets in through bad drainage, or too

deep planting.'

Vegetable Marrow.-The Vegetable Marrow is a

member olf the, Gourd.Iamily, in which there are many varietiesthat should be much more widely iknown in England thanis at present the case, Some of the Gourds are in manyrespects superior in flavour to Vegetable Marrows, and like.them have the advantage that they may be kept during thewinter, thus providing an agreeable dish in a scarce period.Most of the gourds are prolific, very quick growers, and ofexcellent flavour. Large quantities of Marrows are raised formarket, and there is generally a fair demand for them duringthe early part of the summer. In a favourable season theplants bear very productively, "and on this account togetherwith the ease with which they may be cultivated, the market

rea.dily becomes overstocked. An effort should be made. tOI getthem in the market early in the season, before the full supply.of such vegetables as beans, peas, etc., comes in. The latterclass of produce competes very strongly with the Marrows,

Hotbeds, frames or giasshouses are almost indispensable for

raising the plants. in the first instance. Without these con

veniences the supply' for market is likely to come in toolate to realise the best returns. A very liberal stock of

good dung is also necessary for successful cultivation.

VARIETIEs.-The number of va-rieties grown for market i8 .

not extensive. Long White Bush, has short, thick stems, bearssomewhat long fruit, and is a rampant grower. This variety

60 ASPAR�GU3t ETC.} FOR PROFIT.

is excellent, and may be cut before fully grown. Long GreenBush is very similar to the foregoing, but more prolific,Long Ribbed White, and Long Ribbed Green, are also excellent croppers, and much grown for market.

SOIL AND ITS PREPARATION.-A rich, medium loam, in goodheart and very friable, is the best, but Marrows will gro.won a wide, "Variety of soils. The plant needs, plenty 0'£ water,and therefore a, moist condition is favourable. Light, hotsoils, which are liable to suffer from drought during thesummer are not suitable. The aspect should be quite sunny,but at, the same time somewhat sheltered, as the plantsare tender. Plough the ground deeply during the earlywinter, and allow the ridges. to. remain exposed to, the actionof frosts. This will .sweeten the soil as well as pulverise it.In the spring harrow down, and mark out in rows six feet

apart. In the middle of May, at intervals of every four or

six feet, dig holes about twenty inches deep, and fill with

fermenting manure, afterwards cover in with soil from sixto eight inches in thickness. An alternate method, insteadof excavating holes, is to form mounds of half-rotten manure

at the above distances apart" and cover with soil. The latter

system, however, does not tend to hold the moisture so' wellas the former. Yet another method is to, plough or dig out

a, wide furrow about one foot in depth, fill in with good halfrotted manure, and cover with soil ready for planting.

MANURES.-Well-decomposed stable dung is the best formof nutriment for enriching the _ soil, and should be appliedat the rate of from thirty to forty tons pel' acre. Spreadit on the surface previous to, ploughing in. the early winter.For filling in the holes 0'1' furrows, where the plants are to

grow, good half-rotted stable manure is necessary. An abundant supply should be obtained ea.rly in the season so> thatit will be in: a fermenting condition at the time of use forthe Marrows. The gentle bottom heat generated from. the

dung largely aids in the rapid growth of the plants. ·Treadthe manure firmly in the holes before placing on the layer of

top soil.

THE .LONG GREEN BUSH MARROW.


SOWING THE SEED.-For early crops obtain good turfy loammixed with a, moderate quantity of' spent manure, and a;

little leaf-mould. Place one seed in: a, sixty pot, buryingit about one inch deep, or two seeds in a, six-inch pot, Placein a temperature of fifty to fifty-five degrees, either 'in a

glass house, or plunged in a hotbed. This should be donein April. About the end of the month harden off in coldframes ready for planting out. Give air freely on all favourable occasions, and whilst keeping the plants moist, at, theroot be careful not to administer too much water, Some

growers sow the seeds direct in hotbeds, and after hardeningoff plant out in the open. Marrows may also, be, sown in the

open towards the end of May. Place two. or three seedsin each manure hole or mound, and cover with invertedflower pots, handlights, or other protection. When germinatedremove the, cover during fine days" and replace at night.When all danger of frost is over protection may be dispensedwith. About a quarter-pound of seed will provide enoughplants for an acre.

PLANTING OUT.-From. the mi'ddle of May to the beginningof June- the plants may be, put out, in the open. In theformer case some protection may be necessary for a fewweeks. Select a. dry, mild day for this work. Over the

fermenting manure heaps. make a hole large enough toreceive the contents of each pot, place the latter in it without

breaking the ball of soil. Press the earth firmly round, andafterwards give a gentle watering. Successional plantings ofa, fortnight's interval between each ma.y be made until aboutthe end of June. For the later plantings. nOt protection is

afforded, and the plants are allowed to take their chance.As some will be sure to perish, particularly if the weathersets in bad, the gaps may be filled up from plants kept inreserve.

GENERAL CULTuRE.-The ground should be kept well hoedwhilst the condition of the plants will allow of it. This willaid in maintaining the roots moist during dry �eather. Whenthe plants commence to. run from one foot to eighteen inches

'VEGETABLE MARROW. 63

in length they should he stopped by pinching out the pointsof the leaders. See that the runners are trained evenly over

the ground so that there will be no. unnecessary crowdinglater on. Water freely, particularly in hot. weather. Whenthe ground becomes covered with growth the shade affordedwill keep the ground moist. In the early stages' muchadvantage is derived in dry weather by spreading a layer of

long manure on the surface, after well hoeing.MARKETING THE CRop.-Marrows should be gathered before

attaining full size. They are then of superior flavour, andthe plants 'will retain their prolificness much Tonger, Cut

carefully from the vines, and carry away in hampers. No

bruising of the surface should take place. The Marrowsare usually stacked in tiers in the market carts, or may beforwarded' in crates with a little soft material to protectthem. The crop should be in from July onwards. In the

early season the best prices are obtained. They are calculated

by the tally, which equals, five dozen,

Pasrs.c=Mildew is caused through poor growth and alsovariation in temperature, The remedies are planting in a

sufficiently sheltered spot providing protection, and givinghigh cultivation. Aphides, or Green Fly, attack weak plants.The best preventive is to promote rapid and vigorous growth,so that the plants will be strong enough to resist an attack.

PESTS AND DISEASES.

Following the plan adopted in previous handbooks we here

give a brief description of each pest or disease. attacking the

crops included herein.

INSECTS, ETC.

Aphides.-These, commonly known as" Greenfly," infest

Ridge Cucumbers, Sea-Kale, and Marrows, and, if not promptlyeradicated, do. much injury to the orops. They are too wellknown to need any detailed description here. Suffice it to

say they multiply very freely, and do much harm by con

grega.ting on the leaves and shoots, and sucking the sap.

REMEDIEs.-As a. rule orops that are well grown do, notbecome badly infested. '1.'0 get rid of Aphides use one ofthe advertised liquid insecticides, or' the following home-made

preparation :-:-Boil four ounces, of shag tobacco in a gallon of

water; strain off the liquor', then add one ounce of soft soap,and, when cool, spmy 0.1' syringe the infested shoots with it.

Asparagus Beetle (Criccesis a.sparagi).-T'his is a

most destructive insect pest, This beetle is about the sizeof a rather small house-fly j it is red and yellow, with black

spots and black legs. The beetles may often be seen aboutthe beds while the Asparagus is being cut, and every· one

should be killed. They somewhat resemble the ladybird in

colour, but are longer, and not so wide. One beetle will

PESTS AND DISEASES. 65

lay hundreda of eggs; on the 'stems and leaves; the eggs hatchout in. a. few days, and the; larvre commence eating the leaves,and frequently bare stems may be seen, which have all beeneaten by these grubs" and no go-od Asparague will be cut, fromthe crowns' the following yea.!'.

REMEDIEs.-The best way of destroying the larvre is! to

poison. the Ieaves they are ea.ting. Where the attack is not

very bad, hellebore powder ma,y be sprinkled over the affected

parts while they are wet. In bad attacks it is best to spraythe whole of the plants with Paris green, using one ounce

ASPARAGUS BEEtLE AND LARVA.

The short line represents natural size.

to fifteen gallons of water. These are both dangerous poisons, '

and should not be .used until alter the cutting season is over,

Bean Aphis or Dolphin Fly (Aphis rumicis or

fa.bre).-Besides. the names given above this pest is also, knownas the C( Collier," C( Black Fly," and C( Black Dolphin." It

belongs to the C( green£l.y" family, but we deal with it

separately, because of its great importance, The young aphisare slo.tey-grey in colour, and the female and male of a

• 'F 2


blackish hue.. The aphides will be found swarming in clusterson the points of the shoots, and, if unmolested, will speedilycover the shoots and leaves with a. sticky juice, filthy to

handle, and decidedly detrimental to the plant. The aphidesincrease very rapidly, and will soon destroy the plants, andthe prospects of a crop.

REMEDIES.-I£ plants are badly infested there is no remedy,as the insects will have sucked all the nutriment out of theshoots, and completely pa-ralysed the growth. In the lattercase, the plants. should be promptly burnt. Where only .a

few aphides are seen, nip off the tops into a pail and burn

them, 001' trample them well underfoot, or syringe the plantswith the following mixture: :-Dissolve twenty-eight poundsof soft soap in twenty-eight gallons of water, remo-ve fromthe fire, and add twelve-and-a-half pints of paraffin oil, Stir

thoroughly together, and add water to.' make one hundred

gallons. Syringe the plants with this when cool. Dustingwith lime and soot is a good remedy also.

Cockchafer Beetle or May Bug (Melolontha vul

garis.).-A well-known' insect, which ma,y be met with buzzing•

COCKCHAFER BEETLE AND GRUB.

about in the air on summer evenings. They remain in thelarva state for three years, and are easily recognised by their

large size. It is the Iarvee knowm as too Cockchafer grub, thatis! injurious to crops, the former feeding on the roots of -thelatter,

REMEDIES. -Rooks, and other birds, are very parti�l to. the


grubs, and will generally keep a, sharp eye on fresh-ploughedland in order to catch them. Isolated specimens' should be

destroyed when seen. It is also a, good plan: to catch thebeetles whenever po�sible.

Celery Fly (Tephritis onopordinus).-This insect attacksthe leaves of Parsnips, Celery and Parsley. The fly is

I

CELERY FLY AND MAGGOT.

about one-sixth of an inch long, of a. brown colour, with two

transparent wings: and green eyes. The female deposits, her

eggs within the skin the the Celery leaves, where. they are

hatched, producing small green larvre, which cause largeblisters upon the leaves. These Iarvee, or maggots" cause

complete or rapid decay of the leaves. The brown pupoo ofthis fly are found on the leaves of the host-plant, and in theearth; as a rule, the rqaggots leave the host-plant, and turn


to pupre in the earth. There are several broods during theyear; burt the pup:re last produced hibernate in the: "soil untilthe following spring, when they appear as perfect 'insects, andrenew the attack.

'

REMEDIEs.-Owing to the maggots, feeding within the leavesit is difficult to apply any insecticide that will reach

I

themwithout at the same time destroying the leaves. Pickingoff the portion of leaf infested, and burning the collected

portions, is the only remedy. The '. flies ma,y, however, he

prevented depositing their eggs by spraying the foliage occa

sionally with the following preparation :-Mix half a gallonof tar with a gallon of water, and place this-on a, fire till itboils. When cool, add fifty gallons or water, and then spra.ythe foliage thoroughly with it. Another good plan is. to

pour as much paraffin oil on a piece, of· hearthstone as itwill absorb, then steep this" for a, day or two, in three gallonsof water. Remove any scum that forms, then spray the

foliage. Spraying should be done' during' May, June, and

July.

Millepedes.-These small, active little animals, com

monly known as Thousand Feet, are sometimes a source oftrouble to the gardener, Although their natural food is

supposed to be decaying matter, they are known to attackthe seeds of Runner and Kidney Beans and Peas soon after

sowing, and either destroy the germinating power of the

latter, or weaken the embryo plant. There are at least threekinds that are hurtful to seeds, namely, Julus terrestris, whichis about an inch long, leaden or pitchy in colour, and more

or less cylindrical in shape. Julus guttatus, an inch long,very slender, with an ochreous coloured body, spotted with

crimson, and Polydesmus complanatus, a flat kind with a

lilac-tinted body. All are furnished with a. large number of

legs. The Spotted Millepede (J. guttatus) may be found in,clusters devouring the seeds, especially in cold, backwardseasons when germination .is retarded.

REMEDIEs.-Dressings od: soot, or njtrate of soda, 0.1' an

· PESTS AND DISEASES. 69

occasional liming appea.r to be the best remedies, Theymay also be trapped on a small scale by burying pieces of

I

1-,,�rrt7.1II!ITJ_1IJIIft'1Iit01!1rm/171,;-I"rxomonI'�I"ffimrI1IIJ·%��2'

(j®3 4

REF�RENcEs.-l, Flattened mmep�de (Polydesmns complanatus); 2, common

millepede (Jnlns terrestris); 3, position aseumed by J. terreatris when atrest; 4, two segments (enlarged) of oommon millepede-eshowlng pair of legs.

potato or rape cake near the seeds. Deep ploughing and

digging in winter will also reduce their numbers considerably.

Pea and Bean Thrips.-Although but little is knownabout the various species of thrips, it is very evident thatconsiderable damage results among crops and greenhouseplants by their depredations, In kitchen and market

gardens, Onions, Cabbages, Runner Beans, Peas, and Potatoesare all subject to the attacks of the various thrips, whilstunder glass we find a. common example in the Black Fly, so

frequent on Cinerarias, According to a. leaflet published bythe Board or Agriculture, considerable damage was done to

the Pea crop in Kent and Essex during the summer of 1897,due to the ravages of the thrips insect. Thi,s particularspecies wa-s the Pea Thrips (Thrips pisivora). Specimens of

injured plants were sent to the Board, and these showed the


'I'anrrs, BLACK FLY, OR THUNDER FLY

A Female. B Larva. 0 .Aphx of female; a Borer. D Apex of larva. E .Antenna.F Portion of wing. G Spine, from wing.

(Block kindly lent by the South Eastern .Agricultural Oollege.)


haulm to be well developed, while the flowers and pods were

wanting. On some of the specimens were a few of theabortive flowers, and others with dried and withered calycesand petals, and a few pods: containing no, pe'as were distortedand turned brown by the attacks of the Thrips. It is oftenfound that the Peas grow away well, and produce abundanceof vigorous haulm and plentiful racemes, of flower buds, butinstead of these opening into blossom, they shrivel up, becomea twisted, shapeless bundle of petals, and then fall off, leavingnothing but the short petiole where a young pod should be.This is due to the Thrips larvee, and also to the adult insects,eating the pistil stamens and pollen within the unopenedblossom, thus. preventing the fruit from forming,

The Scarlet, Runner Bean Thrips is' another common varietydoing great damage among the Runner Beans, and attackingthe buds and blossoms, in the same way as' the Pea Thripsdoes on the �Pe'a crops. The Runner Bean Thrips: was described at considerable length in a number of the " Journal "

of the South-Eastern Agricultural College, and was: stated tobe quite distinct from the Pea, Thrips. "The attack is discernible at first," says the writer, "on examining the blossoms;later on still more SQI, by the complete barrenness of therunners-a few; flowers only, and here and there a dwarfedpod, being seen. The lower petals first show signa of disease"

becoming more and more shrivelled, until they are reducedto a mere crumpled mass; then the' upper part of the blossom

gradually dies away. Sooner or later the flowers fall off fromthe top of the flower-stalk, leaving the petioles attached tothe stem, looking just as if the bloom had been severed bya, sharp knife." The female of the Scarlet Runner Bean Thripsis about one-sixteenth inch in length, the colour is almostblack, or dark brown, a few hairs are on the joints. of the

body, the wings are of a dull white, with 'three rows of spines(Fig. F), and the legs are deep yellow-brown, The larvte are

of an orange COolour, and the pupre are very like them, onlypaler in colour, and with small wings.

REMEDIEs.-The Thrips shelters during the winter in the


earth, and under the bark of trees 0'1' poles, in the dried grass,and other like covers, It iSI imperative, therefore, after an

attack to destroy all such winter shelters, pea and bean sticks,eto., and a different C,YOp should be sown on the ground thefollowing year. Where spraying is employed when the foliageis attacked, a mixture of five pounds of soft soap and fiveand-a-half pounds of quassia chips' too one hundred gallons, ofwater iSI useful ; or one ounce of pyrethrum and one ounce ofsoft soap to eight quarts of water, Weare indebted to the

Principal of the South-Eastern Agricultural College, Wye, forthe use of the above illustration. of the Thrips Black or

Thunder Fly.

Pea Midge (Cecidomyia pisi).-The Iarvse of this smallinsect sometimes badly infests the young, pods, feeding upOonthe Peas, and causing the pods to turn yellow,

REMEDIEs.-Pods found of a' yellowish colour should be

examined, and if tiny white maggots are found within, burnthem.

Pea Moth (Gra,pholitha, pisano).-The reader will doubtless have found many a pod Qof Peas with a maggot or

maggots inside, and wondered how they came there. Well, the

culprit is the larva of a small motlu which lays. its eggson the young pods in June. When the young maggots appearthey bore into the pods, and feed upon the seeds. When thelarvte are' fully grown, they leave the pods, and descend to

the ground to become pupre, emerging as. moths the next

season.

REMEDIEs.-Gather and burn all infested pods.

Pea Seed Weevil (Bruchus pisi).-A small weevilwhich deposits Its eggs in the young pods, The lana, boresits way into the seed, hut is not noticed until the seedhas been harvested and stored, when its presence is. noted bya hole in the seed through which it has escaped as a perfectweevil.


REMEDIES.-Practically none of any real service. Seed foundinfested should be burnt. It is said that exposing the seeds

PEA BEETLE.

to a temperature of one hundred and twenty-five degreesFahrenheit will kill the larvee.

Pea Weevils (Sitones lineatus, etc.).-These insects are

very troublesome to Pea crops in some seasons.. The StripedPea Weevil (Sitones. lineatus) is probably the worst offender.

STRIPED PEA WEEVIL.

It measures about a quarter-inch or less in length, is or a

light. clay colour, with three whitish or ochreous stripesalong its back, and several punctured stripes on its

wing cases. The horns and legs are of a. reddish tint. The


other kind, the Spotted Pea, Weevil (Sitones crinitus) is

smaller, of a grey or rosy colour, and spotted with black.These weevils crawl up the stems of the Peas, and nibbleholes in the edges of the leaves; in bad cases devour thewhole of the soft parts. In the larvre stage they are- foundnear the roots of Clover and Peas, They sometimes appearas early as March, but, chiefly in June, and onwards. Beans,as well as Peas, are liable. to' be attacked,

REMEDIEs.-When it is borne in mind: that the weevils feed

chiefly a,t night and hide in' the soil below by day, it willbe seen how difficult it is to· cope with them. Variousremedies. have been tried with more, or less success. Thus,dusting soot or lime freely a,t, the base of the stems has

proved efficacious in preventing the weevils, ascending thestems at night. Syringing the plants in the evening withthe insecticide described for the, Bean Aphis will renderthe foliage distasteful to the' weevils, and help to' preventinjury.

Red Splder.-This almost microscopic mite attacks the

foliage of Kidney Beans and other crops' in dry seasons, andon light soils. They congregate on the surface, spin .a fineweb over themselves, and, under this protection, suck the

sap out of the cells, causing the, leaves to. turn brown andwither.

.

REMEDIEs.-Keep the soil frequently stirred to preventthe mites crawling on the surface, Occasional drenchings withwater will help, to keep them in oheck.

Slugs and Snails.-These creatures often do much

injury to. young and growing crops.REMEDIEs.�A dressing of soot, whenever they are trouble

some, is the best remedy.

Wireworm.-The Wireworm is the larva of a. greyishbrown beetle known as the Skip Jack or Click Beetle (Agriotesobscurus). The beetles deposit their eggs 0011 the herbage

,

0'1" roots of plants, and these in due course hatch into' slightly


flattened cylindrical grubs of a yellowish hue. Each of thesegrubs is furnished with three pairs of short legs, situate

just behind the head, and with a sucker-like foot below thetail. Their bodies are exceedingly tough and wire-like, hence

their name; in fact, they are so rigid that they may be readilysnapped through the· middle. The first step of the larva, is toeat its way into the heart 001" stem of a plant and work upwardsuntil it reaches the' surface, It then quits, this plant for another,beginning at the roots as before. Wireworms are voraciousfeeders, and therefore will attack a large number of plantsin one season. 'I'his-s-taken into consideration with the fact

REFERENCEs.-a, Wireworm; b, tail joint; c, parent of wireworm; d, antennasof beetle; e, natural size of click beetle.

that they live from three to five years in the grub state before

turning into the perfect beetle-will afford some idea of the

injury likely to he done by a single grub if allowed to attainits full development.

. .

REMEDIES.-As a rule land that is well cultivated is notinfested with this pest.. To clear badly-infested land on a largescale dress it with fresh gas-lime in winter at the rate of two

tons per acre. Let it lie on the surface till spring, thenturn it in. Wireworm may also be eradicated by dressings ofnitrate of soda a,t the rate of one hundredweight per acre,and on a small scale by burying the piece of potato, rape-cake,and carrot near their haunts. Lift and examine these daily.


Woodlice.-These creatures fortunately do. not botherthe gardener outdoors, but in forcing houses where Rhubarbor Seakale is grown, they are very troublesome. As they feed

by night, or, when in dark places, by day, they are not

easily discovered. When not engaged in mischief they hidein crevices of the wall 0.1' floor.

REMEDIEs.-Fill some flower pots partly with rubbish, or cut

Potatoes, Turnips, Swedes, or Mangolds in halves, sCoOop out

IiI \

n

'<, ....

THE COMMON WOODLOUSE AND TRAP.

the inside, and place th-ese about the infested area. Examinethem daily, and destroy all found.


DISEASES.

Asparagus Rust (Puccinia asparagi).--This fungoiddisease has committed terrible havoc among the Asparaguscrop, .especially in the Evesham district. It attacks the plantslate in the year, and causes the shoots to turn black. Thedisease seriously weakens the growth of the plant, and ulti

mately kills it.

REMEDIEs.-The Americans spray the foliage every ten daysduring the summer with Bordeaux mixture, and find thisacts as a certain preventative against attack. The cost, peracre of doing this is, said to amount to. about £1 per annum.

In the event of plants being' infected, the pro.per remedy isto. cut off the foliage and burn it.

Canker and Rot.-T'he cankery patches and rottenness of various roots are caused by .wet seasons, sour, and

very heavy soils, There is no known remedy for it.

Celery Leaf Blight (Cercospora apii).-A fungoid. disease which attacks the foliage in wet seasons, and causes

'pale spots to form thereon.

REMEDIEs.-Once the plants are attacked the only remedyis to burn the infected Ioliage. Spraying with' carbonate ofcopper solution (see "MiscellaneouS! Facts ") early in theseason will prevent the fungus: attacking the foliage.

Cucumber Mildew (Peronospora cubensis).-A formof mildew which attacks the under sides of the leaves ofCucumber and allied plants. Not a very common diseasein England.

REMEDIEs.-Spray the under sides of the leaves with theBo-rdeaux mixture.

Mildew.-BesideS! the Pea Mildew, various other forms 0&minute fungi, known as mildew, attack the leaves of market-


garden crops. They are white in colour, and form a, dense

coating on the surface of the leaves, One of these parasites,Peronospora viciso/ (Pea, Mould), attacks Peas, but, is not ofsuch serious import as the Pea, Mildew.

-

REMEDIEs.-Spraying with sulphide of potassium, or Bor-deaux mixture, will check the, spread of mildew. So, too" will

Ewing's Mildew Composition, used at the rate of one ounce

to one gallon of water, and syringed over the foliage.

Pea Mildew (Erysiphe Martii).-A fungus" or mildew,which H,ttacks Peas very badly in some seasons, and practically ruins the crop. The fungus first turns the leaves of a

yellow tint, then coats the surface with a fine white growth,similar to ordinary mildew. Soon after, this dense coatingbecomes dotted with small black bodies containing the sporesof the mildew. The disease, is more prevalent in very dry.

0'1' very wet seasons.

REMEDIEs.-Spray with sulphide of potassium and water, or

Bordeaux mixture, if the mildew attacks the foliage only veryslightly j if badly, the best plan is to burn the plants.

Pea Spot (Ascochyta).-A fungoid disease which attacksthe pods of Peas, causing pale spots to form on them, and

making them more or less deformed in shape. Not a, seriousdisease,

REMEDIEs.-Spraying with Bordeaux mixture, if very p�evalent j gathe,ring and burning the infected pods in isolatedcases.

Seedling Pea Blight (Brachysporium pisi).-Thisfungus attacks Peas in the earlier stages of their grnwth, formsblack patches on the foliage, and causes them to, die.

REMEDIEs.-Spray with Bordeaux mixture 0,1' sulphide 'of

potassium and water. See under "Misc.ellaneo,us Facts" for

hints how to prepare both fungicides.

SOILS AND THEIR TREATMENT�

THE following brief facts about the chief classes of soils, andtheir management, may prove usetul to readers of this handbook.

ClaY.-There are rna,ny kinds of clay soils, to wit, theLondon Clay, Wealden Clay, Kimmeridge Clay, Oxford Clay,and the Lias. All possess the same characteristic features I

namely, great tenacity, plasticity, and retentiveness of moisture. In a crude state they are heavy and difficult to, work,very wet and cold. When well cultivated, however, theyform fertile land, and are not to be despised. The cultivator'schief aim should be 'to mechanically improve the textureof such a soil by draining, or deep working, so as to allowthe surface water to' penetrate below, the upper part to crack

freely and form air passages, and the particles generally to

become drier, and more friable. When the surface water

easily goes below, the upper stratum becomes drier and

warmer, because the interstices are filled with air, not withcold stagnant moisture.

In a, word, to render clay soils tractable and fertile, theymust, if very wet, be drained, but the drains must not be

deeper than two and a half feet, or ploughed one foot deep,or, better still, trenched two' feet deep. Uuder no' circumstances, however, must the subsoil be brought to, the surface ;it must be kept below. The object of deep tillage is not to

bring sour subsoil to the surface, and bury the surface soilG


below, but to inorease the depth of the soil, to form an

opening for the surface water to drain below away from theaction of the sun, or the roots of the crops,.

The next step is to mechanically improve the, texture ofthe soil, This consists of heavily manuring the soil withfresh horse dung, and applying burnt refuse and grit in

autumn, then ploughing or digging these in, and leaving thesurface rough all winter. The dung, grit, eto., will help to

separate the plastic lumps. of clay into finer parts and makethem less cohesive, while the eXPOosure- 0'£ the rough clodsto frost and air will cause the-m to divide into still finer

particles, Early in the year, a, dressing Oof fresh lime', at therate of two to three tons per acre, will get, rid of the adhesive

ness, disintegrate the mould, prevent puddling on the, surface,sweeten the soil, promote nitrification, and the liberatiou of

potash, Thus, in a few years, it will he possible. to make a.

clay soil workable and fertile.Points to' remember in the case of clay soils are,:-

I.-Deep working, to drain the surface water into. the sub

soil, and render the upper stratum drier and warmer,

2.-To manure heavily in autumn, to' open the pores· of thesoil and add humus to the latter,

3.-TOo 'plough or dig in autumn, and leave, rough allthe winter.

4.-To avoid wo-rking on the land in wet weather.5.-To add lime occas ionally,

Loam.-This is the best of a.ll soils, whether it be a

heavy and clayey loam, or a sandy loam. Such soils are

very fertile, easy to manage, and well adapted for market

garden crops. Those of the heaviest typ� require liberal

manuring in autumn, deep ploughing, or digging, leavingrough all winter, and an occasional liming, at the, rate ofone ton per acre early in the year. Those of a lighter nature

may, or may not, be dug or ploughed, and manured inautumn. Loams overlying chalk may often be improved bya light dressing of lime. Although there may 1:e abundance

SOILS AND THEIR TREATMENT. 81

of lime below, there is frequently little in the' surface soil,owing t.o' the fact that lime quickly sinks. The best manures

for loamy soils are stable or mixed farmyard dung, andfor the lighter classes it is best applied in a decayed con

dition.

Sandy SOils.-These are difficult to manage in dryseasons, owing to' the fact that they quickly lose their moisture. Science and practice has shown, however, that, if suchsoils are occasionally limed, the lime will cement the sandyparticles together, and arrest the depletion of moisture,Furthermore, by the free use of 0.0'01 and moisture-retainingcow and pig manures, applied -Iate in winter, or early in

spring, and not in autumn or early winter, sandy soils ma,ybe made to conserve moisture in dry seasons. Soils of thisnature should never be ploughed 001' dug in autumn 001' winter.

Keep the surface firm so. that the rain cannot easily penetrate,dissolve the food salts, and wash them into. the drainage.

Peat SOil.-This is 'One of the worst classes of soils, for

market-garden purposes. They are sour, more 0'1' less water

logged, and expensive to put in working order. Draining,liberal liming, and mixing with good soils will in time renderthem fertile.

Colour of SOil.-The colour of soils is due to humus andiron. HUiIllUS renders a soil greyish when dry, and blackishwhen wet. The red colour of soils is due to ferric oxide

(oxide of iron); the blue tints of blue clay, to iron sulphide.The red and the blue tints vary according to the amount O[humus present..

Testing Soil for Water.-Lift a spadeful of s'OH,weigh a pound, and spread it on a tray in a dry warm place fo,ra few days, then re-weigh it. The difference in the weight willrepresent the quantity of moisture evaporated, and afford a

rough idea of the proportion of water present in the soil.Experiment thus with clay, loam, and sandy soils,

G 2

82 ; VEGETABLES FOR PROFIT.

Testing Soil for Humus.-To ascertain whether a.

soil contains much humus" take a, pound weight of it, evaporatethe moisture, as: above advised, and note the loss in weight,then put the dried soil on a, shovel over a, hot fire until it hasceased to give off any smoke. When quite CIODI, re-weigh, andthe difference in weight will give the proportion of humusthe soil contained.

Testing the Solubility, of Soils.-Put a, givenquantity of the firer-dried soil in a, bottle capable of holding halfa, pint. of rain water, shake it up, and let, it stand for a, day, then

pour off the clear liquid into a saucer, and place this in a

warm oven till the water has evaporated, Scrape the residue

deposited in the, saucer into. a heap, and then you have some

idea of the proportion of soil which can be dissolved by water.

The solids, left in the bottle represent the insoluble portionof a, soil, and that in the saucer, the soluble portion.

Testing for Lime in Soils.-To ascertain if a, soilcontains lime, dry some soil in an oven, place it in a, tumbler,and pom some dilute hydrochloric acid over it. If lime be pre�sent, the acid WIll cause effervescence toO take place.

Claying SOiIS.-Sandy, peaty, and calcareous soils maybe greatly improved by a, top dressing of clay, at the rate of

fifty to one hundred cart-loads, per acre, The clay should be

spread oyer the land in autumn, and allowed to remain till

spring for the frost to, pulverise it, Cost, 3081. to 100s. pHracre.

Chalking Soils.-Where chalk can bel obtained cheaplythis will greatly benefit clay soils. Apply in autumn, andturn in in spring. Quantity per acre, eighty to one hundredcubic yards (eartloads).

Paring and Burning SOils.-Old pastures about tobe converted into, market gardens should have the turf paredoff two to three inches in thickness by means of a paringplough, OIl" breast plough, and charred to, ashes, Start a, fire with.

SOILS AND THEIR TREATMENT. 83

straw, atioks, and other dry rubbish, then add some of the

driest of the turves, and when the fire has got a good hold

keep adding turves until the whole are charred. Several fires

may be formed thus. The burning converts the, vegetablematter into' valuable plant foods, and destroys injurious grubs.The ashes should be spread evenly over the land, The cost 0.£

paring will amount, to about £1 per -aorel j the burning to

£1 581. or £1 1081. per acre j and the diatribut.iom of the ashesto 5s. per acre j or a: total of £2 10sl. to! £2 1581. per acre.

Clay Burning.-The,re, is no better way or making veryheavy clay soils fertile and workable than by burning the

upper two or three inches. Clay from headlands may also, be

burnt, and converted into valuable plant foods. The fire ismade as advised in the previous paragraph, fine coal, Dr

"slack," being mixed with. the clay. This. work is best donein summer. Three tons of coal are required to. every hundred

yards of clay. The heaps should consist or a cart-load each.

Cost, about 8d. per cubic yard of ashes,

Composition of Soils.-The following facts: are takenfrom Dr. Fream's "Elements of AgricUJlture'" (JohnMurray):-

Oonstituents.

'12'15

7'215'774'452'26

'79'76'06'16'10

78'44

".,'

�:g000

..:l-------------1-----______ ____

·Organic Matter ... . ..

Oxide of Iron . . . . ..

Alumina ...

Lime... ..

Magnesia.. . ..

Potash . ..

Soda ... ...

Phosphoric Acid .,.

Sulphuric Acid .,. . ..

Insoluble Silicates and Sand

·Containing NitrogenEqual to Ammonia

100'00 100'00 100'00 100'00

2'82'92'88'18'12'07'06'10'01

94'84

'16'19

5'073'633.511'48'34'42'30'01'10

85'14

'19'23

'18'21

3'131'521'63

28'77'18'36'18'n'15

63'97


PEATY SOIL:-

*Organic matter... . ..

Oxide of iron and aluminaCarbonate of limePotash, soda, magnesia, etc.Insoluble silicates and sand

Total ...

*Containing nitrogenEqual to ammonia

64'6613'961'80'98

18'60'

100'00

2'472'99

PICKLING SURPLUS CROPS.

Preserving and Pickiing.-In the two precedinghandbooks we gave recipes showing how to pickle various

vegetables. In the present one we give brief details of themethods of preserving green Peas and Beans, pickling of

Gherkins', converting Vegetable Marrows into jam, and Rhubarb into wine. This information ma,y pra.ve serviceable to

readers who want 'to make the most of their crops for com

mercial purposes, as wen as to those who merely wish to

utilise surplus produce for their own use. The reader willfind information as to the jars, bottles, etc., required for

pickling in Handbook No. 1.

Preserving Green Peas.-Those who desire informal"tion regarding the, preservation, of Green Peas, for sale or homeuse, will find the following recipe a good one :-8he11 anyquantity of Green Peas, and give them a boil in as much

spring water as will cover them; put them in a sieve too drain,pound the- pods, with a little of the water that the Peas were

boiled in, and strain what juice you can from them; boil it a

quarter of an hour with a little salt, and as much or thewater as you think will cover the Peas. Then fill a wide....

mouthed bottle, and pour in the water. When cold putrendered suet over, and tie them down close with a bladderand leather over the mouth 0'£ the bottle, and keep in a dryplace.

86 VEGETABLES FOR PROFIT .

. Preserving French. and Runner Beans.-Allthat is required are, some stone, glaaed or earthenware glazedjars and salt.

. Any size that, is, convenient to get, will do, forthe purpose so lo-ng as themouth is of' a, size allowing of their

being sealed with parchment paper, or skin, to exclude air

completely. The vessels, should be quite dry, as also the Beanswhen gathered, Commence, with a, layer of salt first. over the

bottom, then add a course of the pods" continuing these

alternately until filled to- the top. San should be used

unstintingly, and it is a matter o,f choice whether the receptacle is quite filled at once, and tied down securely, or supplemented according to supply, time, or 'convenience. It willbe found, however, if filled to, the, brim one day and allowed tostand until the, next, that the contents, have decreased inbulk almost, one-third, and it is a, matter of economy to

adopt this course 'rather than to fill and seal down at, once.

The foregoing. hints apply to the treatment of the pods whole,but we. have recently learnt that it is a, better practice to.

.

cut, them up the same as treated for immediate cooking, for

by these means, the work of preparation is, more efficientlyand pleasantly done. In preparing a, quantity in this waymuch more worle is/I entailed than is the case of the whole podsystem at the, time, but it iSI patent, to all thai. this, course

is the. better of the two. The economicaf housewife who im

parted to us. this, informatdon makes: it a rule to have alwaysby her a, spare. jar, in to which those not required for the, day'smeal are deposited, each layer being carefully covered withsalt, In preparing the Beans for the table, they need to. be

thoroughly well washed in several changes of cold, clear water.It is an advantage to place the. desired quantity in water over

night, not fOorgetting to fasten down securely those left forfuture use.

Pickled French Beans.-Ga,ther the, pods' before theyget too old, and steep them in brine for a couple. of days" then

drain, and place them in a clean wide-mouthed jar, adding a

Iittle bruised ginger and spice', and pour scalding hot vinegar.

over the lot. Cork 001' seal the jar lightly.

PICKLING SURPLUS CROPS. 87

Pickled Gherkins.-Gather the Gherkins when an inch001' SI0J long daily and throw them into brine'. When youhave, sufficient to fill one 001' more jars, drain away the brine,and put the Gherkins, with a, few shallots 001' pickling nruons

- in the jars, then p0JUl' boiling vinegar, containing some spice,over them, and seal securely.

Rhubarb Jam.-Well wash and wipe, but do not peelthe Rhubarb; out into, pieces' nearly all! inch. in length, putinto a deep basin, and strew sugar over, one pound of sugarto every pound and half of fruit, let it remain for twenty-fourhours. Strain the juice into a, saucepan (enamelled iSI best),and boil it for ten minutes, then add the fruit, and boil ituntil tender to. touch. DOo not, stir about much with a, spoon,keep the pieces whole. Six drops of essence of vanilla gives: a

delicious flavour, 001' lemon may be, added. Place in jars, or

wide-mouthed bottles, and seal with parchment, paper covers.

Vegeta.ble Marrow Jam.-A very good sample of

Vegetable Marrow jam ma,y be made as follows, :-First parethe Marrow, and take out its seeds, then cut it into verythin slices. To each pound of Marrow add three-quarters ofa pound of lump sugar, and the juice and rind of one lemon ;the latter should be cut into. very thin slices. Let it stay ina pan till next day, then add one ounce of ground ginger to

every twelve pounds of pulp, and boil until a small quantityplaced on a plate will jelly. The boiling process generallyoccupies about an hour. Seal finally with parchment papercovers,

Rhubarb Wine.�Take any quantity of Rhubarb andfine moist sugar, in the proportion of three pounds of sugarto four pounds of fruit. Place the Rhubarb in a tub that hasa tap fixed near the bottom of it. Bruise the Rhubarb, andadd a quart of water for every three pounds of fruit used.Mix the whole well together, cover the tub with a blanket,and let it stand for twenty-four hours; then draw off the

liquor', and add about one-third the previous quantity of hotI G3


water. Mix this and the pulp well together, let it stand -fora litble while till it settles, then draw it off, and mix it withthe liquor that was first drawn. Now mix all the liquor withthe sugar, taking care to thoroughly dissolve the latter, and

place it in a clean tub. Cover with a blanket, and leave itin a warm room to ferment. The period required for fermentation to commence varies, but it is usually about twenty-fourhours. When the fermentation does commence, draw the

liquor into a, cask just about, large enough to hold it. DOonot bung up the' cask until fermentation has almost ceased.Then close, and allow it to remain quite still for a, month or

two, after which the wine may be drawn off and bottled.

MISCELLANEOUS FACTS.

Manures.-In Handbooks Nos. 1 and 2 the'various forms0'£ artificial manures, and their uses" are fully described:Below we deal with such additional subjects as woodashes,compost, night soil, sewage manures, and gypsum.

WOODASHEs.-The ash of burnt vegetable refuse, hedgetrimmings, tree primings, and weeds generally form a valuable manure for application to all kinds of soils. They are

rich in phosphates and potash, and are of especial benefit toCarrot and Turnip crops.

COMPOSTS.-'l'hese are useful to the .market gardener. Theymay be formed of waste fish, bones, offal, weeds, road scrap·ings, and leaves, and a little lime or salt, thrown in an oblongheap, and turned occasionally. In a, year's time this mixturewill make a good dressing for heavy lands.

NIGHT SOIL.-This, the contents of earth closets, etc., thoughnot over rich in fertilising constituents, is well worth lookingafter. It should be mixed with the materials mentioned under" composts," and applied in the same manner.

SEwJ-9E MANURE.-ThlS, in any form, is suitable for en

ric}>.ing the land for vegetable crops. Celery and green crops.7a'e especially benefited by it. The value of sewage manure

is a.bout £2 per ton. Liquid sewage is of still greater manurialvalue, excellent green crops and Celery being grown on land

irrigated with it.

GYPsuM.-A form of lime (sulphate of lime) occasionally


used as a, substitute for ordinary lime. It is said to benefitROOot and Potato crops. Anyway, it, acts UP()ill the latent

potash in the soil, liberates, it for the, use of crops, and promotes nitrification, Mixed with farmyard manure it, fixesthe ammonia, and prevents loss of nitrogen. It. may be, usedat the, rate of two to. three, hundredweights per acre. The

price is about tenpence per hundredweight .

.

Average Yield of Produce per Acre.-Aspara�gus, 3 to 10' hundredweights ; Broad Beans, 150 bushels;Celery, 1,200 rolls; Globe Artichokes" 10,000 to 20,000 heads;Kidney Beans, 300 bushels; Runner Beans', 300 bushels; Peas,150 bushels; Seakale, not known; Rhubarb, 5 to, 30 tons;Vegetable Marrows, 1,500 to 2,000 dozen.

Quantities of Seed or Plant,S per Acre.

Asparague: seed, 5 pounds; plants, 14,000. Broad Beans.:2 to 2l bushels. of. seed. Celery': 1 ounce of seed per 1,000plants; 10,000. plants'. Globe Artichokes, 3,630 plants. Peas,2 to 3 bushels of seed. Kidney Beans, 1 peck, and RunnerBeans 1 to 3 bushels of seed. Rhubarb, 5,000 to! 7,000 plants.Seakale, 19,360 roots. Vegetable Marrows, 1,00.0 plants;Seeds, 4 ounces.

Average Returns per Acre.-Ridge Cucumbers,£50 to' £60; Peas, £20 to £30; Celery, £40 to. £60; Kidneyand Runner Beans, £30 to. £40.; Vegetable Marrows, £70 to

£90; Rhubarb, £60 to. £70.

Seed Testing.-H is an advantage to' the grower to

know of a, simple plan of testing the vitality, or germinatingpower, of old and pew seeds. By ascertaining, before sowing,the percentage of each kind that will germinate, he is in a

position to. know whether thick or thin sowing is needful,and also whether th€ seeds, will vegetate freely or not. Geta piece of flannel and a plate, and add sufficient tepid water

to. thoroughly moisten the former. Count out a, dozen, or a

hundred seeds, of. one kind, and pb9'€ these on the moistI

MISCELLANEOUS FACTS. 91

flannel. Stand the, plate in a warm room, and, in the' course

of twelve hours or so', the seeds" if their vitality is, unimpaired,will begin to sprout, Count. the number that have sprouted,and deduct these, from the unsprouted ones, and you havethe. percentage of seeds that may be, relied upon to, growwhen sown in the open.

Analyses of Vegetables (Ash).-

11.S !

$......

'Ejs. � .

o •

.g � 2l oi «ll'l OlEName of oi �:E P'O �o

Ol es

.s '0 .§ ,<:I ..... 0 p. ... �.E �·cnVegetable. 0 ",0 .B<� � ",H ... '"

0 H ,g<lj 0 0'0 ..8�il; m� ..... _0

P il;0 �w. ,.<:10il; w. 0 oil;

-- -_ -- -- -- -- ----

Asparagus 6'01 34'21 3'03 4'39 18'51 4'13 13'47 3'31 12'94 -

Beans (Broad ) 20'82 17'40 8'87 7'26 37'94 1'34 2'46 1'03 2'45 -

" (Kidney) 36'83 18'40 6'33 7'75 14'60 3'96 4'u9 5'24 2'80 -

Celery ... ... 22'07 - 5'82 13'U ll'58 5'58 3'85 2'66 - 33'41Peas ... 33'61 1'3012'24 10'39 31'00 4'84 1'54 - 1'87 --

Rhubarb ... 59'59 '461- 10'04: 12'83 1.89 2'77 2'77 8'84 -

WEIGH:!' OF SEEDS PER BUSHEIJ.-Cahbage, 50 to 54 pounds jCarrots, 9 pounds j Beans 60, pounds; Peas, 56 to, 63 pounds ;

Turnips, 50 to' 54 pounds' j Parsnips, 14 pounds j Seed Potatoes,56, pounds.

NUMBER OF 8EEDS PER POUND.-Cabhage, 128,000 j Carrots,457,000 j Beans, 1,300; Turnips, 155,000; Pea.s, 2,000 jParsnips', 97,000; Seed Potatoes, 8 to 12.

'

,Seed Germination.-Fo.}lo,wing is the average time

required for the seeds of market-garden crops to germinate:-Nurnber of Days. Number of Days.

AsparagusBeans ..

Beet ... ...

Cabbage FamilyCarrot ...

CeleryCucumberEndiveHerbs ...

Kohl Rabi

14 to 247 to 149 to 186 to 10

12 to 2010 to 18

7 to 157 to 167 to 14I) to 12

LettuceOnion ...

ParsleyParsnipPeas ...

PotatoesRadishSpinachTurnipsVegetable Marrow ...

6 to 1210 to 1615 to 2615 to 2210 to 1816 to 24

7 to 14,12 to 18

6 to 127 to 15

�:Sd��A$�sa>pll.!op

_____ ___S2_ ------,--

Janua:r:y 8/- 10/- ... 10/- 15/-.. ... ... ... 2/- 2/6 ... 1-/10 1/3, ."

/ per lb.

February 6/- 71- ... 15/- 18/- ... .•. ... 1/6 2/- 2/6 ... -/0 1/3, ...

per lb.

IMarch 6/- 7/- ... 2/- 2}6 1/62/- 2/- 2/6 1/- 1/6, .

April 2/� 7/-... 2/- 2/611/6 2/- 2/- 2/6 I ." , .

May 1/3 2/6... -/9 -/1011/6 2/- 2{- 2/6 .,. I ... . ..

per flat perbush

June ... 1/- 2/6 '1/- 3/- 9/- 15/- ... ... -/8 -/92/6 6/- 2/- 3/6 ... I '" 4/- 6/-� sieve per bush

July .. ... 1/- 1/612/- 18/- ./2 -/61/6 2/- 4/- 5/- 2/6 5/- 3/6 4/63/- 10/-1 ... 1/6 3/-per bush

August ...... 3/- 12/- 18/- -/2 -/61/62/- 3/- 4/- 3/- 4/- 2/6

3/-1 11/62/.

1/6.2/- 12/ 18/- -/2 -/61/3 1/62/- 3/- 3/- 5/- 2/6 3/- 1/6 2/-••• 10/- 15/-... ." .. , 2/6 3/611/- 1/6 ...

...

I 9/. 15/- ,'".., !1/6 1/9, .

.. I 9/- 15/- ... 1-/9 1/-, .

]::.:l

Sept, . .. ) ...

October ... , ...

November] ...

December, ...

'cD

�;galp;;J>'lc.. ....

��

I ��tsi::.:l0��..e",Ell.!�

po.

00] IpulC'lPa>CQ

>'l....

��P..e

.-0 ......

�1ijIl.!

00J.lo

.

�poa>+=:�.... A<!j ....

a> a>

..ell.!

..sc!l

loo>'lal ....wop.,.

::9

ul

.��p�>'l��A

00

:at:�a> a>

Qj ..

°A

""'�·ol-

��....<� aill>'l�w

��>'lai

Il.!

��ala>a>..<:lCQ'"@�§ ....

p'"�Il.!

...;

$§��

�....

�....a>

Il.!1ij

Il.!

..... 1»� �e+ 1-7 l>::n I» <� � �

"-<i '"0..

(!) '"1 "� Q.(Jq� ?3l �

i '"1 "� ::!.�. C)<D �p...t/)S· 00"'"� "CD ..� 0

OQ.I» C� C)§-'�� '1j:j I'%jP:> 0� >'-'

�.....

ClJ �ct- ....

§"�.'"1..... 1»I::::l '"1

<TCl <D

s:.s:.CD CD

�1>0

<tz:1Gltz:1�)to

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I-:rjo!iO

'1:1!iOoI-:rj

;::i

MISCELLANEOUS. FACTS. 93

Longevity of Seeds.-As a, general rule, Pea, Bean,Parsnip, Rhubarb, and Carrot seeds retain their germina,t.ingpower for one ye,ar; Mustard and Cress, Beet,. Leek, Onion,Spinach, Radish, and Parsley, for two years; Broccoli, Cab-

. bage, Cauliflowers Celery, Lettuce, Endive, and Turnip, forthree, years ; Cucumbers, Marrows, and Melons, for four yea.rs.

Weight of Crops.-Tol ascertain, by weighing twenty,the weight 'per acre of Potatoes, TUrnips, Carrots, et.c.:-

Inches Number of 1,400lbs. 2,800lbs. I 4,200 lbs.

I 1>,600lbs.between Plants per per r.er perPlants. per acre. acre. acre. acre. acre.

-----

lbs. Ibs lbs. lbs.6 174,240 0'160 0'320 0'482 0'6427 128,013 0'218 0'437 0'656 0'8748 98,010 0'285 0'571 0'856 1'1429 77,440 0'361 . 0'723 1'084 1'44.6

10 62,726 0'449 0'892 1 �388 1'78511 51,840 0'540 1'080 1'620 2'16012 43,560 0.642 1'285 1'927 2'57113 37,116 0.754 1'508 2'262 3'01714 32,003 0'874 1'749 2'624 3'44:915 27,878 1'005 2'010 3'015 4'0::n16 24,502 1'}42 2'285 3'427 4'57117 21,704 1'290 2'580 3'870 5'16018 19,360 1'445 2'891 4'336 5'78219 17,375 1'611 3'223 4'834 6'44620 12,681 1'785 3'571 5'356 7'142

EXAMPLE.-If the produce of 20 Potato stools, or of 20 Turnips,growing 12 inches apart from each other, weigh 0'642 of a lb., then theproduce per acre is 1,400 lbs.; if 1'285, then 2,800 lbs, per acre; andso on. The second column shows the number of plants per acre; at 12inches distance each way, the number is 43,560.

Bordeaux Mixture.-FoUowing is an excellent recipefor making this fungicide:-.

Water

Sulphate of copperUnslaked lime

25 gallons3 pounds2 p�undSi

Dissolve the sulphate of copper in a, few gallons o,f water. In

94 VEGETABLES F0i< .

PROFIT.

another vessel dissolve the lime, which should be of goodquality, by adding a small quantity of water at a time. untilit, forms a creamy paste, then add more water, and mix withthe dissolved sulphate of c�pper, adding water to bring thewhole, up to twenty-five gallons. The mixture should be

thoroughly stirred for at least five minutes.To, determine whether the mixture is in a proper condition.

to use, apply the foUowing test, Immerse the clean blade 0[a knife in the' solution, and allow: it to remain for about two

minutes. If the blade presents the appearance of beingooppered, a, Iittle more lime should be. slaked, added to the

mixture, and thoroughly stirred, when a, clean blade shouldbe again used as a. test, and when' it remains' in the solutionfor two. minutes without being covered with copper the, solution is ready for use. Soft so,ap, in the proportion' of one

pound to three gallons of the mixture, or the white of two

eggs tOI a, gallon, causes the fungicide to adhere much: betterto. the foliage.

Sulphide of Potassium SOlution.-This fungicideis made as follows :-Dis�IO,lv8t one ounce. of sulphide of potassium in a. quart of hot water, and add this to. two. and a

half gallons of cold water, Stir well, then apply by means

of a sprayer..

Carbonate of Copper SOlution.-ThiSi should be

prepared as follows s-e-

Water

Strong aqua ammonia,

Copper carbonate � ..

45 gallons3 pints:5o.uncesl

Make the copper carbonate into a. thin paste by mixing it witha, pint and a half of water, then add the ammonia water slowly.The ammonia water should be 26 degrees in strength, then a

clear blue solution will be obtained, aHe·r the above mixture isadded to the 45 gallons of water. If the final solution is dourly,the ammonia is not 0'£ the proper strengtl» mentioned. This

fungicide is adapted for spraying for the Celery Leaf Blight.

MISCELLANEOUS FACTS. 95

DRAINAGE.

Depth Distance Number of TotalSOIL. of apart of Drain Pipes Cost per

Drain. Drains. per acre, acre,

Clay, stiff ... ... ... 2ft.6in. 15 ft. 2,905 £8 0 6" friable ... ... 2ft.6in. 18 ft. 2j42l1 6 7 8" soft ... ... . .. 2 ft. 9 in. 21 ft. 2,076 5 4 3" loamy .. '. ... 3ft. 21 ft. 1,980 5 9 5

Loam and Gravel ... 3 ft. a in. 27 ft. 1,613 5 5 6�,-,-' light ... j ••• 3ft.6in. 33 ft. 1,320 4 16 3" sandy .. , ." 3ft.9in. 40 ft. 1,117 .

3 3 2Sand and Gravel ... ... 4 ft. 50 ft. 880 3 12 10

" coarse gravelly ... 4f�. 6in. 60 ft. 726 3 5 9

SEEDS TO Sow ONE ACRE.

FOLLOWING is the quantity of seed required to sow one acre of eachkind of vegetable:-Asparagus ... 4 or 5 lbs, Kale 2 to 3 lbs ,

Beans, Dwarf 1 � bushel. Onion 5 " 6 "

Runner 10 to 12 qta. Parsnip 4 " 6 "

5 or 6 lbs. Peas... 1 to 2 bush.2 to 3" Radish 8 to 10 lbs.2 " 3" Spinach 10 " 12 "

2 Tomato 4 ozs.

2 to 4" Turnip 2 to 3 lbs.

Be�tBorecole... . ..

Brussels Sprouts ...

Cabbage.

Carrot

SOIL CULTIVATION.

IOost Cost perHow Oultivated. per Time Required.rod. acre,

s. d. £ s. d.Light ... ... Dug 1 spit deep ... o 2 1 6 8 14 days per acre •

Ditto ... Trenching 2 spits deep o 10 6 13 4 �8 days "

Ditto ... Bastard 'I'renohing ... 0 6 4 0 021 days "

Ditto ... Ploughing ... . .. o 12 o I day "

Heavy ... Dug I spit deep ... 0 3 20·0 18 days "

Ditto ... Trenching 2 spits deep 1 0 8 0 '0 30 days "

Ditto Bastard Trenching ... 0 8 568 �4 days "

Ditto ... Ploughing ... . .. o 16 0 Ii days "

Soils generally Steam Ploughing ... o 15 0 8 acres per dayDitto ... Steam Cultivating ... o 12 0 6 to 10 acres.

Ditto .. Steam Digging ... o 12 010 acres per day.Ditto Harrowing ... ... 0 1 o Ditto.Ditto Cultivating ... . .. 0 3 03 to 5 acres p3r dayDitto .. , Rolling ... .. 0 0 9 8 to 10 acres per day


HEDGE PLANTING.

Q) �

.��.,j ..

's .

-::1 �a 13.9Distance Cost of �.�� .� til

Height '"..=lName of Shrub. Time to Plant.

to Plant. of Plants.Plants

AQ)E-t",

per 100. � �.9 �� ..,.

ec

OI'lA c.dl 0

--- -- -- --

DECIDUOUS- Inches. Inches. £ s. d. s. d. s. d.Beech .... ... ... Oct. to Feb. 9to 12 18 to 240 4 0 0 90 4Ditto ... ... 12 24 to 360 5 0 0 90 4Berberis ... ...

Ditto ... 9to 12 18 to 241 o 0 0 90 4Hornbeam ... ... Ditto ... 36 24 to 360 5 0 0 90 4

Myrobalan Plum '" Ditto ... 6. ]20 6 0 0 90 4Quick ... ... ... Ditto ... 4 120 3 0 0 90 4Ditto ... .. ... 6 180 4 0 0 90 4

EVERGREEN-Arbor vitre ... ... Sept. &. Oct. 12to 18 24 to 361 15 0 0 90 4Ditto ... ... .. . 2436 to 48 2 10 0 0 90 4Box ... ... Autumn 12 12 1 5 C- O 90 4

Cupressus ... ... Sept. & Oct., 1818 to 24 I 10 0 0 90 4

Euonymus ... -,. Oct. to Dec. 12 12 to 182 o 0 0 90 4

Holly ... ... ... May ... 9to 12 121 1 0 0 90 4Ditto ... ... ... 1212 to 15 I J5 0 0 90 4Ditto ... ... 15 182 5 0 0 90 4Laurel

'

.. ... .. Autn.&Spr. 12to24 12 to 24 o 15 0 0 90 4Ditto ... . .. 2418 to 241 5 0 0 90 4Privet ... ... . � . Autumn .. . 412 to 240 5 0 0 90 4Ditto ... ... .. . 624 to 360 7 6 0 90 4Yew '" ... ... Ditto ... 9to18 9 to 121 I 0 0 90 4Ditto ... ... ... 18 12 to 151 10 0 0 90 4

ONE PENNY. Specimen, Post Free, 1�d. Every Saturday.

The PROfiTtlBLE

fARM' & 6ARDEoN.An up-to-date Weekly Journal for all Industries connected with the Land.

Practical information is given to the :-

MARKET CARDENER • How to grow the best Produce,and how and where to obtainthe best prices.

POULTRY KEEPER· • How to manage Fowls, Ducks.Geese, &c., £01' Eggs and TablePurposes.

.

• How to make Butter and Cheeseon the latest principles, andwhat are the most ProfitableCows £01' Milk Production.

OWNER OF AN ESTATE How to utilise Woodlands� Plan ..

tat ions and Waste Places.• How to manage Bees profitably,

DAIRY FARMER

BEE KEEPER •

OWNERS OF SMALLHOLDINCS

How to grow Vegetables, Fruit,Flowers, &c., successfully, andprepare and pack them £01'Market.

Market Prices of Fruit, Vegetables, Flowers, Plants,Live Stock, Dairy Produce, Grain, Feeding Stuffs,Poultry, &c., are given every week.

A Coloured Plate

. . Every Week.

SUB S C.R I P T ION: Post free, 3 months, 1/8; 6 months, 3/312 months, 6/6. To Foreign Countries, 9/- per annum.

OFFICES :-148 AND 149, ALDERSGATE STREET, LONDON, E.O.

PRACTICAL GARDENING BOOKSQCrown s-e., bound in cloth. Price 3/6, post free.

The Encyclopeedia of Gardening. - A Complete Dic

tionary of Cultivated Plants, Flowers, Fruit, Veg�tables, Trees.

Shrubs, &c. Descriptions, with Popular and Techmcal Nam.es ?fPlants Date of Introduction into this country, Number of Species m

Cultiv�tion, How Propagated, Position, Treatment, Suitable Soil,Proper Temperature, Time of Planting, &c., &c. By T. W. SANDERS,F.L.S., Editor of The Profitable Farm ancl Garclen.

Crown 8vo., cloth; 154 Illustrations, 16 plates, and Frontispiece.Price 5/- nett. Post free, packed in box, 5/6.

The Amateur's Greenhouse.-A Complete, Guide to the

Construction, Heating and Management of Greenhouses, Propagation '

and Cultivation of Greenhouse Plants, and the Eradication of InsectPests, etc .. By T. W. SANDERS, F.L.S., Editor of The ProfitableFarrn ancl Garclen.

----------------------------

Crown 8vo., bound in cloth.' Illustrated by 255 Reproductions ofPhotographs from Nature.

Price 5/- nett. Post free, packed in box, 5/6.Easily-grown Hardy Perennials.-A Complete Guide to

, the Culture of Hardy Flowers. A Description of Outdoor Plants,Bulbs, and Tubers, Directions for Culture and Propagation, Notes on

Habit and Uses, Derivation, Order, Genera, Species, English Names,etc., etc. By GEORGE H. Vos, B.A., Editorially supervised by T. W.SANDERS, F.L.S., Editor of The Profitable Farrn ancl Garclen. '

(lJrown 8vo., bound in cloth, Price 2/6, post free._

Numerous Illustrations.

Cultivated Roses.- An Alphabetical List of Species and VarietiesGrown in this Country, with Date of Introduction, Types, Classes,Colours, Adaptabilities, Modes of Pruning, Budding, &c., Edited byT. W. SANDERS, F.L.S., Editor of The P?'ofitable Farrn ancl Garclen.

Crown 8vo., bound in cloth. Price 2/-, post free.

Special Manures for Garden Crops.-A CompleteGuide as to the most suitable Soils and Manures for the successfulCulture of Greenhouse Plants, Hardy Annuals, Half-Hardy Annualsand Biennials, Perennials, Vegetables, Herbs, Flowering Plants,Shrubs, Fruits, Salads, Grass for Lawns, Mushrooms. By A. B.GRIFFITHS, Ph. D., &c;

----------------------------

A GARDEN GUIDE FOR THE WHOLE YEAR.Price 1/-, post free 1/3.

The Gardening Year Book.-Daily Work in the Garden,the Successful Culture of Vegetables, Fruits, and Flowers month bymonth, Greenhouse Plants and Flowers, Garden Practice for Amatenrs,Profitable Fruits and How to Grow Them, Useful Garden Recipes,Ruled Tables for Chronicling Garden Operations and Crops obtained,Directory of 'Horticultural Societies, etc., etc.

W. H. & L. COLLINGRIDGE, 148 & 149, Ald ersgate, Street, London; E. C

UNIVERSITY OF CHICAGO

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