+ All Categories
Home > Documents > 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Date post: 13-Nov-2014
Category:
Upload: api-3698472
View: 127 times
Download: 2 times
Share this document with a friend
Popular Tags:
102
How To Overcome Common Seam Quality Issues
Transcript
Page 1: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

How To Overcome Common SeamQuality Issues

How To Overcome Common SeamQuality Issues

Page 2: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Better understanding of common stitch types and where they are typically used.

How to better communicate with vendors so mistakes are eliminated

Single Needle Three Thread Overedge

Page 3: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

LOCKSTITCH

COVERSTITCH

OVEREDGE

CHAINSTITCH

LOCKSTITCH BARTACK

BLINDSTITCH

Page 4: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

ISO Std. 4915

From Fed. Std. 751aNew ASTM Std. D-6193

A global numbering system designed for improving communications

Page 5: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

406 Stitch Type

406 is a two needle, three thread bottom coverstitch

What Kind of Stitchis This?

Page 6: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Every Stitch is formed with at least One

Needle Thread and up to Four Needle

Threads All stitch types are formed with a Stitch

Forming DeviceIs there morethan one type of Stitch Forming

Device?

Page 7: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Spreader

A Stitch forming device

that carries someone else's

thread

Hook

A Stitch forming device that

interlocks the needle thread with a bobbin

thread.

Looper

A Stitch forming device that interloops its thread with another thread.

Page 8: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

751a Top View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number

Single Thread Chainstitch 101

Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch BS, BH or Bartack

* 304 Lockstitch is preferred when stitch security is a Must.

101

or

304

Single Thread Blindstitch

No stitch visible on the Bottom or Outside of Sewn Product 103

Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom 301

Twin Needle Lockstitch 301

Zig Zag Lockstitch 304

Chainstitch Looper Thread on Bottom 401

Twin Needle Chainstitch 401

2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406

3 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 407

Stitch Drawing

Multi-Thread Chainstitchwith Looper

Lockstitchwith Hook & Bobbin

ISO4915

Single Thread Chainstitchwith spreader

Spreader

Hook

Looper

Page 9: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

2 Thread Overedge Single "purl" on Edge 503

3 Thread Overedge Most Common Overedge Stitch 504

3 Thread Overedge Double "purl" on Edge 505

Mock Safety Stitch 2 Ndl. Overedge 512

2 Ndl. 4 Thrd. Overedge 2 Ndl. Overedge 514

5 Thrd. Safety Stitch 516

2 Ndl. 4 Thrd. Coverstitch 602

3 Ndl. 5 Thrd. Coverstitch 605

4 Ndl. 6 Thrd. Coverstitch Flatseamer / Flatlock 607

Coverstitchwith 2, 3, or 4 needles &

looper & top spreader

Single Needle Overedge

with 1 needle & Loopers

and/or spreader

Twin Needle Overedgewith 2 needles & 2 Loopers

Safetystitch(401 chainstitch & 504

Overedge stitch)

Page 10: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Stitch Drawing -Top and bottom view as sewn on the

sewing machine.

Page 11: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

ISO Stitch # - The ISO 4915 Stitch Type.

Page 12: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Common Applications - Common applications where

this stitch is used.

Page 13: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

406Attaching

Elastic

4062 Needle

Hem

406Coverseaming

406Making

Belt Loops

Page 14: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Requirements - Requirements like needle spacing,

width bite, SPI, etc.

Page 15: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

1/4”

1/8”

1/4”

1/4”

Page 16: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

ISO CommonTop View As Sewn Bottom View As Sewn Number Application Requirements Stitch Description

Single Thread Chainstitch 101

Basting Stitch for Tailored Clothing;

Bag Closing 1) Specify SPI

Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlooping with itself on the underside of the seam with the assistance of a spreader.

Single Thread Chainstitch or Lockstitch BS, BH or Bartack

* 304 Lockstitch is preferred when stitch security is a Must.

101

or

304

Buttonsew, Buttonhole or

Bartack

1) Buttonsew - specify stitches per cycle, ex.16 ; 2) BH - specify length &

width; 3) Bartack - specify length & width of

Tack

Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches. Note: Sometimes buttonhole machine set for approximately 40- 45 stitches per buttonhole, and then run two cycles on the same buttonhole. This

Single Thread Blindstitch

No stitch visible on the Bottom or Outside of Sewn Product 103

Blindstitch Hemming, Felling, Belt Loops

1) Specify SPI - typically 3 - 5 spi; 2) Non-Skipped Stitch or 2 to 1 Skipped Stitch on sheer fabrics

Stitch is formed with one needle thread that is interlooped with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread passes through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without completely penetrating it the full depth.

Lockstitch - Most Common of All Stitches Bobbin Thread on Bottom 301

Topstitching, Single Needle Stitching, Straight Stitching 1) Specify SPI

Stitch formed by a needle thread passing through the material and interlocking with a bobbin thread with the threads meeting in the center of the seam. Stitch looks the same top & bottom.

Twin Needle Lockstitch 301 Twin Needle

1) Specify Needle Spacing; and 2) Specify

SPISame as 301 except two rows of stitch are formed. Typical Needle Spacing is 1/4" but machines are available from 3/16" up to 1"

Zig Zag Lockstitch

Chainstitch Looper Thread on Bottom 401

Single Ndl Chainstitch - Mainseams on

Wovens 1) Specify SPIStitch formed by 1 needle thread passing through the material and interlooped with 1 looper thread and pulled up to the underside of the seam.

Twin Needle Chainstitch 401

Twin Needle Chainstitch for Felled

Seams on Jeans, Shirts, etc.

1) Specify Needle Spacing; and 2) Specify

SPI

Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooped with 2 looper threads forming 2 independent rows of stitch set on the underside of the seam.

2 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 406

2 Ndl Hemming, Binding,

Coverseaming, Elastic to Panties,

Belt Loops

1) Specify Needle Spacing (1/4", 3/16", 1/8"); and 2) Specify

SPI

Stitch formed by 2 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverage on the bottom side only.

3 Ndl. Bottom Coverstitch 407

Attaching Elastic to Men's & Boys Knit

Underwear

1) Specify Needle Spacing (1/4"); and 2)

Specify SPI

Stitch formed by 3 needle threads passing through the material and interlooping with 1 looper thread with the stitch set on the underside of the seam. Looper thread is interlooped between needle threads providing seam coverage on the bottom side only.

Stitch Drawing

Stitch Description - explanation of how the stitch is formed.

Page 17: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• Identification• Application• Advantages & Disadvantages• Proper Stitch Formation

Page 18: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Common Woven Garments

• Shirts & Blouses• Slacks / Trousers• Dresses & Skirts• Chinos & Jeans• Suits / Blazers / Sport Coats• Pajamas / Robes• Rain Coats / Overcoats /Parkas• Vests• Uniforms

Page 19: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Cutting Room

This is the cutting table where layers of fabric are spread out and garment components are cut. Here we see pants panels being cut. Usually fabric for pants is spread face-to-face so you end up with pairs of fronts, backs, pockets, etc.

In a GarmentFactory, what happens in theCutting Room?

Page 20: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

The length direction of the fabric on the cutting table is called the Warp direction; perpendicular across the table is called the Weft or Fill direction; and at an angle across the piece goods is referred to as the bias. Most woven fabrics have a selvedge edges.

Weaving Machine

Creel of Yarn feeding in to Weaving Machine

Page 21: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Most Common Stitches Used &

Why

Page 22: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Common Stitch Types

• 301 Lockstitch• 401 Chainstitch• 503 or 504 Overedge• 515 or 516 Safetystitch• 304 Bartacking• 101 or 304 Buttonsew or BH• 103 Blindstitch

301301401401

516516304

101101

504504

406

401401What are

common Stitchesused to sew

Wovens?

Page 23: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Common Stitches Used in ShirtsAmerican & Efird, Inc.

Runstitch & Topstitch Collar

Hem Bottom

Pocket Hem &

Set Pocket

Set-on Center Plait

301 Lockstitch

401 Chainstitch

301 Lockstitch

301 Lockstitch

Close Sleeve & Sideseams401 Chainstitch

or516 Safety Stitch

Buttonsew101 Chainstitch B.S.

or 304 Lockstitch B.S.

(Reversible & Turning Corners)

( Turning Corners)

( Reversible)

( No Bobbin Changes &Less Seam Puckering)

( No Bobbin Changes &Less Seam Puckering)

Page 24: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

American & Efird, Inc.

Common Stitches Used in Denim

Waistbanding

Sideseam Felling Riser, Seat

Seam & Inseam

Hanging Front Pkts.,“J” Stitch Fly, Crotch

Seam401 Chainstitch -2 Rows

301 Lockstitch - Twin Ndl.

401 Chainstitch -2 or 3 Rows

516 Safetystitch

( Reversible)( No Bobbin Changes)

( No Bobbin Changes & Cover Fabric Edge)

( No Bobbin Changes & Clean Finish Top & Bottom)

Page 25: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Uses a Hook & Bobbin

American & Efird, Inc.

Page 26: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 27: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Top View Bottom View Application

301 Lockstitch- Plainsewer- Topstitching- Seaming301 Lockstitch looks the same

on both the top and bottom.

A 301 Lockstitch is the most

common type ofStitch!

Page 28: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

301 Lockstitch Advantages• Reversible

Clean-edge Hemming Folder

301 Lockstitch is Reversible

Outside of garment

•Recommended when turning corners

•Tightest Seam Construction minimizing “Seam Grinning”

•Low Seam Profile/Better Hand

•Will not unravel

•Capable of Back Tacking

A 301 Lockstitch has many advantages

and that is why itis so common!

Page 29: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Backtacking is usedto prevent a seam fromunraveling!

Page 30: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Automatic Pocket Setter

301 Lockstitch Advantages• Capable of Multi-direction sewing

Page 31: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

The most common pattern for a bartack includes 3 rows of line stitches and then numerous cross-over or zig-zag stitches - a total of 28 stitches per tack.

Bartacks are generally used to reinforce seams to prevent the seam from degrading. Typical locations for bartacks include: corners of pockets, at edge of seam to prevent the chain from unraveling, etc.

Bobbin Winder

Bartackers are Cycle Machines

sewing a predetermined number of stitches

Page 32: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Bartacks - are used to reinforce seams at stress points or attach Belt Loops. Specify the length & width of the Tack. Most bartacks have 28 stitches per cycle. Bartacks should be the correct length and width.

Page 33: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

301 Lockstitch Disadvantages

• Constant Bobbin Changes

• Not as Elastic as Chainstitch or Overedge

Changing bobbinsall day must

take away a lot oftime from

production!

Page 34: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Looper

American & Efird, Inc.

Page 35: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

A chainstitch will only unravelfrom the underside of the seam … and fromthe last stitch formed.

Page 36: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Top View Bottom View Application

401 Stitch- Main Seams One of the Most Common stitches

ONE LOOPER THREADONE NEEDLE THREAD

Chainstitch - generallyused for mainseamson woven apparel!

Looper

Page 37: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Advantages• No Bobbin Changes - fewer restitched

seams

• Greater Seam Strength - fewer opened

seams

• Greater Seam Elasticity - fewer opened

seams

• Higher Machine Speeds - higher

productivity

• Multi-Rows of Stitch - for special

applicationsLooper

Both the needle and looperthreads come right off the

cone?

Page 38: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

This machine hasfour needles and

four loopers producing four

rows of chainstitch

Page 39: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

This Machine has four needles and four loopers making four independent rows of 401 chainstitch. It is equipped with a metering device to stretch the elastic

and a folder for folding the fabric.

Close-CoupledPuller

Metering Device

Page 40: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Disadvantages

• Can unravel easily from last stitch

formed• Can unravel if a skipped stitch

occurs• Can unravel if the stitch is broken• Not recommended when turning

corners

Page 41: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Serging - generally refers to the covering of the edge to prevent the edge from unraveling. All three stitches can be used for serging but a 503 stitch uses the least amount of thread.

Serging - was one of the ways to

prevent the edge of wovens fromunraveling

Page 42: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Top View Bottom View Application

503 Stitch- Serging (single purl -

less thread consumption)

504 Stitch- Seaming and / or

Serging

505 Stitch- Serging (double purl -

best coverage of edge)

American & Efird, Inc.

Two threads - needle & looper

Three threads - needle & 2 loopers

Three threads - needle & 2 loopers

Page 43: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Safetystitch - amachine that produces

a chainstitch & overedgesimultaneously

Page 44: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

516 Safety Stitch(401 & 504 stitches

simultaneously)

How many threadswould this machine

take?

Page 45: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Top View Bottom View Application

515 Stitch- Safety stitch Seaming

516 Stitch- Safety stitch Seaming

* Both 401 Chainstitch & Overedge stitches are sewn simultaneously.

Four threads - 401 & 503

Five threads - 401 & 504

American & Efird, Inc.

Page 46: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

KEYS TO PROPER TRIMMING•Trimming Knives kept Sharp and set with the Proper Trim Angle.•Trimming Width Set Correctly with Needle Plate to achieve Proper Seam Margin

Poor

Qual

ity

Poor

Qual

ity

Page 47: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Overedge Machines have a Knife that Trims the Material prior to Forming the Stitch

Upper &Lower Knives

Stitch Tongue orChaining Finger

Page 48: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

where the yarns in the fabric pull out of the seam from the edge. This often occurs on fabrics constructed of continuous filament yarns that are very smooth and have a slick surface. Also caused by loosely constructed fabrics.

Possible Solutions Increase the Seam Margin Optimize the Stitches Per Inch Change to a different Seam Construction

• Stitch & restitched seam• French Seam

Inside of Seam

Inside of Seam

Page 49: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 50: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

UNRAVELING BUTTONS - generally where a tail of thread is visible on the topside of the button and when pulled, the button falls off.

Automatic Buttonsew Machine

Page 51: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Bobbin Winder

Generally a button sewn

on with a lockstitch

buttonsewer will not

unravel giving a more secure

button attachment.

Page 52: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

BH

Purl Stitch - where the purl is

pulled to the top of the buttonhole

edge.

Whip Stitch - where the purl is

pulled to the center or bottom of

the buttonhole edge.

Dress/ Casual Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed vertically, with approximately 85-90 stitches, and is usually done with a lockstitch buttonhole machine.

Knit Shirts - Buttonhole length generally is 1/2 inch, is placed horizontally, with approximately 85-90 stitches, and is usually done with a lockstitch buttonhole machine. Note: Knit plants have a tendency to use a buttonhole machine set for approximately 40- 45 stitches per buttonhole, and then run two cycles on the same buttonhole. This gives better coverage on the knit fabric so there are less fibers protruding from under the thread.

Page 53: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

American & Efird, Inc.

Common Stitches Used in Slacks or Trousers

Serge Pants Panels

Make Back Darts

Hem Bottoms

503 - 2 Thd. Overedge

103 Blindstitch 301 Lockstitch

301 Lockstitch

Set Front Pockets & J Stitch Fly

Sideseam, Inseam, Seat Seam401 Chainstitch

( Reversible & LowSeam Profile)

( No Bobbin Changes &Higher Machine Speeds)

( Cover Raw Edge & Less Thread Consumption than 3 Thread Stitch)

( Tightest stitch minimizingSeam Grinning)

Page 54: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 55: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Top View Bottom View Application

103 Stitch- Blindstitch - Hemming - Belt Loops - Felling

American & Efird, Inc.

Blindstitch machines have a penetration adjustment that determines the amount of thread or “dimple” seen on the outside of the garment. Generally it is desirable to see no thread on the outside of the garment.

Page 56: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Improper Needle Penetration - The thread should not show on the outside of the garment. Too much needle penetration.

Ridge FormerUsed to determine penetration

Spreader

Fabric

CurvedNeedle

Feed Platen

Page 57: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

PenetrationAdjustment

SkippedStitch Setting

What is meant by 1 to 1 non-skip or 2 to 1 skip stitch?

Page 58: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

•Restitched Seams•Broken Stitches•Improper Stitch Formation•Seam Puckering

Page 59: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

RESTITCHED SEAMS - where there is a "splice" on the stitch line. Caused by thread breakage during sewing or broken stitches during laundry that have been repaired.

If this occurs on Topstitching, then the seam does not appear to be 1st quality merchandise.

Page 60: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

MINIMIZING THREAD BREAKAGE - 1) Use a better quality sewing thread. This may include going to a higher performance thread designed to minimize sewing interruptions. (see A&E "Thread Selection Guide" and/or A&E's Technical Bulletin "Minimizing Thread Breakage & Skipped Stitches"); 2) Insure proper machine maintenance and sewing machine adjustments; 3) Make sure sewing machines are properly maintained and adjusted for the fabric and sewing operation; (see A&E's Technical Bulletin - "Machine Maintenance Checklist". 4) Observe sewing operators for correct material handling techniques.

Page 61: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

IMPROPER STITCH BALANCE - 301 LOCKSTITCH - where loops are seen either on the bottomside or topside of the seam. This is particularly evident with different colored needle and bobbin threads. Also where the stitch is too loose.

Malformed Stitches

Loose Stitches

Page 62: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Needle & Bobbin threads meet in Center of Seam

Top Bottom

Page 63: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Always Check Bobbin Case Thread Tension 1st! Use the “yo-yo” method to check the Bobbin Tension,

if possible.

Adjusting Bobbin Tension

Page 64: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Checking the Bobbin tensionon a flat surface will let you

know if the bobbin has been damaged.

Page 65: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Next, pull thread up through Needle Plate needle hole & check Bobbin Tension

Sometimes thread gets wrapped around the spindle in the basket which will apply tension against the bobbin.

Page 66: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Sewing with light thread tension will minimize: Skips Thread Breaks Seam Failures Seam Cracking Seam Puckering

Why is sewing with lightNeedle Thread Tension

Important?

Page 67: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 68: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 69: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

IMPROPER STITCH BALANCE - 401 CHAINSTITCH - where the loops on the bottom-side of the seam are inconsistent and do not

appear uniform.

Page 70: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

NeedleThread

LooperThread

How do you check thestitch balance on a

chainstitch?

Needle Thread lays over half way to next Needle penetration on the underside of the seam

Page 71: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Unbalanced Stitches

Too much Needle Thread

Needle Thread too tight!Poor Quality

Poor Quality

Page 72: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

SKIPPED STITCHES - where the stitch length is inconsistent, possibly appearing as double the normal stitch length; or where you can see that the threads in the stitch are not properly connected together. Caused by the stitch forming device in the sewing machine missing the thread loop during stitch formation causing a defective stitch. On looper type stitches, this will allow the stitch to unravel causing seam failure.

Skips on Chainstitch

Skips on Lockstitch

Skips on Overedge

Page 73: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Crossing Seams

Page 74: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Yarn Displacement (Structural Jamming)

Tension Puckering (Excessive Thread Tension)

Machine Puckering (Uneven ply feeding)

What are the Major Causesof Seam Puckering on

Wovens?

Page 75: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

EXCESSIVE SEAM PUCKERING - WOVENS - where the seam does not lay flat and smooth along the stitch line. Caused by one of the following:

1) Yarn Displacement or Structural Jamming - caused by sewing tightly constructed fabrics with too large of thread that causes the yarns in the seam to be displaced, giving a puckered appearance

2) Tension Puckering - where the thread has been stretched and sewn into the seam. The thread then causes the seam to draw back and pucker

3) Feed Puckering - where the plies of fabric in the seam are not being aligned properly during sewing

Page 76: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Filling

Warp

Bias

Where the thread is displacing theyarns in the fabric causing the seamto pucker. This occurs mostoften in the Warp direction.

Page 77: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Carefully clip the thread between adjacent needle penetrations along the seam and observe if the puckering remains in the fabric or goes away. If the puckering is still in the seam after the threads are clipped, then yarn displace-ment is the probable cause.

Page 78: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 79: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

A&E Size & Strength Comparison

Tex Size Perma Core D-Core Perma SpunEx-Light Weight T-18 2.0 1.4

T-21 1.6

Light Weight T-24 2.8 2.3

T-27 2.1

T-30 3.8 3.2

T-35

Medium Weight T-40 4.5 4.1 3.3

T-45 3.6

T-50 6.7 4.7

Heavy Weight T-60 8.7 7.3 5.0

T-70 6.3

T-80 9.6 7.7

T-90 7.6

T-105 11.5 8.2 9.7

Ex-Heavy Weight T-120 14.6 11.4 10.6

* Strength in lbs. And is based on current averages.

Use the smallest thread size available that will maintain adequate seam strength and sewing performance. In some cases it may be necessary to go to a different thread type and take advantage of its higher tenacity (example: going from a T-30 spun polyester to a T-18 or T-24 Perma Core).

Page 80: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Regular Point Long Point

The length from the butt to the

top of the eye is the same. Only

the point is longer.

Use smallest needle size possible that will not cause excessive sewing problems. We recommend a needle with a longer needle point so that it will have less resistance as it penetrates the seam.

Page 81: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

On left, seam placed parallel to the warp yarns. On the right, seam placed at angle of 15°.

When possible, cut the garment pieces so they can be sewn on the bias or in a direction that allows the different yarns in the construction of the fabric to be displaced.

Page 82: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

100

200

300

400

500

4 8 12 16 20

Ten

sio

n (

Gra

ms

)

Elongation %24

600

700

800

Higher Initial ModulusLow Initial Modulus

Spun PolyesterPW or CW Core

Caused By Thread Tensionsbeing too Tight!

Page 83: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Identification:

Carefully clip the thread between adjacent needle penetrations along the seam and observe if the puckering is reduced in the fabric. If it is, then excessive thread tension is the probable cause of the seam puckering.

Page 84: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Use very light machine thread tensions. Begin by setting the bottom thread tension (bobbin or looper) as light as possible but still maintain the proper thread control. Next adjust the needle thread tension to a minimum level necessary to maintain a closed seam and a balanced stitch. This not only reduces the elongation of the thread in the seam, but also improves loop formation and sewability.

Page 85: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 86: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Reduce the thread size Use a needle with a ball eye needle Use a larger needle size

Page 87: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• On 401 Chainstitch machines, adjust the stitch balance so the needle loops on the bottom side of the seam lay over at least half way to the next needle penetration when the looper thread is unraveled out of the seam. The looper thread must also be as loose as possible.

Page 88: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Feed puckering occurs when one of the fabric plies is fed into the seam at a different rate than the other ply or plies.

Puckeringon one side

of seam

Page 89: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Puckeringon one side

of seam

Feed Pucker is identifiedwhen the puckering isprimarily on one side

of the seam!

Page 90: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

•Use the minimum presser foot pressure

Too much Pressure will cause excessive Feed Puckering. It is desirable to have just enough pressure to feed without stalling.

Page 91: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

IDENTIFICATION:

Make two perpendicular cuts across a sewn seam where the puckered condition is the greatest - see Figure 4. Remove the thread in the seam and see if the two plies are of equal length.

Page 92: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

•The feed dog should have the optimum teeth per inch and number of rows of teeth for the operation and fabric being sewn.

•Light weight wrinkle resistant fabrics 20 - 24 teeth per inch.

•Medium weight fabrics 14 - 18 teeth per inch.

•Heavy weight fabrics 8 - 12 teeth per inch.

Page 93: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

•Use a low friction presser foot: Teflon coated, roller bearing, “feeding foot”, etc. Use an “anti-puckering” needle plate with a retaining spring that holds back on the bottom ply to match the top ply.

•Use machines equipped with a needle feed or compound feed mechanism where the needle moves with the feed as the fabric is being sewn. This “pinning” of the plies as they are being fed helps reduce feed puckering.

Feeding Foot - A special presser foot designed to help feed the top ply in with the bottom feed.

Page 94: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Puller Feed - A feed system that includes a close-coupled Puller to help pull the top ply in at the same rate as the bottom ply. Used only for straight seams.

Page 95: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• Dress Shirt or blouse ????– Light Weight tightly woven fabric– Fabric susceptible to seam puckering– You have determined that the cause of the

puckering is Structural Jamming

• Which of the following would help minimize Structural Jamming Puckering?

A) Using more stitches per inch and making sure the stitch is balance properly.

B) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for back-feeding.

C) Use the smallest needle and thread possible. Decrease the number of spi, if possible.

D) None of the above.

Page 96: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• Microfiber Jacket ????– Medium Weight tightly woven fabric– Fabric susceptible to seam puckering– You have determined that the cause of the

puckering is Tension Puckering

• Which of the following would help minimize Tension Puckering?A) Use fewer stitches per inch and making sure the

stitch is pulled up tight to minimize seam grinning.B) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for

back-feeding.C) Use the smallest needle and thread possible.

Decrease the number of spi, if possible.D) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first

and then adjust the needle thread tension.

Page 97: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• Casual Pants or Shorts ????– Medium weight woven fabric– You have determined that the cause of the

puckering is Feed Puckering

• Which of the following would help minimize Feed Puckering?

A) Use the smallest needle and thread possible. Decrease the number of spi, if possible.

B) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for proper Operator handling.

C) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first and then adjust the needle thread tension.

D) None of the above.

Page 98: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• Stretch Denim Jean ????– You are experiencing excessive puckering on the seams– You have determined that the cause of the puckering is Feed Puckering

• Which of the following would help minimize Feed Puckering?A) Use fewer stitches per inch and making sure the

stitch is pulled up tight to minimize seam grinning.B) Use minimum pressure on the Foot and check for

back-feeding. Observe operator for correct handling.C) Use the smallest needle and thread possible.

Decrease the number of spi, if possible.D) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first

and then adjust the needle thread tension.

Page 99: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

• Woven Dress - Hem Sleeve ????– Light weight tightly woven fabric– Seam OK immediately after sewing

but then puckers after sitting for 20 minutes– You have determined that the cause of the

puckering is Tension Puckering

• Which of the following would help minimize Tension Puckering?A) Minimizing the pressure on the Foot and check for back-

feeding.B) Adjust the bottom tension as loose as possible first and

then adjust the needle thread tension. C) Use a fine size corespun thread (T-18 or M180) that resists

stretching during sewingD) Use the smallest needle possible. Make sure the needle

hole in the needle plate is as small as possible minimizing flagging.

Page 100: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 101: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite
Page 102: 2 Stitchology - Woven NXPowerLite NXPowerLite

Recommended