2016 - · PDF file6 7 Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier A AMISOFT...

FORMULATION GUIDE

Where Amino Acids are the Essence of our Personal Care

2016

Amino acids are called the source of LIFE for good reasons. Our bodies’ muscles, organs, SKIN and HAIR are all made up of proteins, which are unique combinations of 20 types of AMINO ACIDS.

To bring the blessings of the earth and the very essence of life to more people, AJINOMOTO develops amino acid based PERSONAL CARE ingredients, FRIENDLY to people and to earth.

The aim of this formulary is to INSPIRE you in your existing or future product developments.

SOLUTIONS from Nature

CONTENTS

DISCOVER OUR NEW INGREDIENTS

06 Amisafe LL-DS-22 Facial wash paste

09 Amilite GCK-12H

Facial cleanser cream

Pearl body wash

12 Amisoft ECS-22W Transparent shower gel

UPDATE ON GELATINIZATION AGENTS

26 Lipgloss

FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL 16 Hand Cream

17 Loose Powder Foundation

18 BB Balm

19 Cushion Cream

20 Pearl Hair Shampoo

FORMULATION FINDER 28

DISCOVER OUR NEW INGREDIENTS

76

Part Ingredient (wt % ) Function Trade name / Supplier

A AMISOFT LS-11(F) 30,0 Foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC

COCAMIDE MEA 1,0 Viscosity modifierAMISOL CME / Kawaken Fine

Chemicals

STEARIC ACID 0,5 Foam quality improver NAA-180 / NOF

B AJIDEW NL-50 (50%) 1,0 Moisturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC

PROPYLENE GLYCOL 12,0 Moisturizer

DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL 2,0 Moisturizer

GLYCERIN 3,0 Moisturizer

WATER balance

C GLYCOL STEARATE 0,5 Viscosity modifier EMALEX EGS-A / NIHON EMULSION

D PEG-150 STEARATE 5,0 Thickener EMANON 3199V / KAO

WATER 15,0

E AMISAFE LL-DS-22 (10%) 0,5 Foam booster, Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC

WATER 4,3

2% CITRIC ACID solution 0,2 pH Adjuster

FACIAL WASH PASTE

Amisafe LL-DS-22 improves foamability and leaves silky smooth dry skin-feel. Amisoft LS-11 (F) is used in a "ripening" process to get this facial cleansing paste.

Amisoft also imparts moisturized feel to the skin as well as Ajidew NL-50.

LPS-88

1. Mix part E at room temperature and form a gel. 2. Add part B to part A at room temperature and dissolve at 80°C. 3. Add part C with stirring. 4. Add part D at 70°C to part A and disperse. 5. Cool down to crystallizing temperature (40~45°C). 6. After cool down to 35°C, heat to crystallizing temperature with stirring (Ripening process).7. Add part E with stirring. 8. Cool down to 30°C.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 5.1 (1% aq.)Stability: 0°C, 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, Cycle (-5°C<=>40°C) for one month.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION:

6

Lather speed: Evaluators prefered “Q”

formulation (with Amisafe) as lather speed is quicker than

“P” formulation’s one

SENSORY TEST: Evaluators rated sensory of LPS-88 formulation called “Q” (with AMISAFE) as “Good”, “Comparable”

or “Bad” in comparison to the control formulation called “P” (without AMISAFE).

Technical data sheet: 0125-0720E

Water hardness of tap water: 60ppm as CaCO3

n=6

Total

Silky smooth(dry skin feel)

Fine bubbles

Foam volume

Lather speed

0% 20% 40% 60% 80% 100%

Preferable

Comparable

Unpreferable

7

988

FACIAL CLEANSER CREAM

A facial wash formula which contains AMILITE GCK-12H as a primary surfactant. This facial wash shows excellent foamability in spite of low active surfactant concentration.

Cold- crystalization process is possible.

YSF-73-6

1. Prepare part A, part B and part C in separate vessels.2. Dissolve part D with stirring.3. Add part A to part D with stirring. 4. Add part B to part A+D slowly with stirring. 5. Add part C and disperse well until uniform.6. Add part E and disperse well until uniform. 7. Adjust pH with part F. 8. Add part G with gentle stirring.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 6.8 (1% aq.)Stability: -5, 25, 45°C, for 1 month.



A PEG-14M 0,5 Viscosity modifierPOLYOX WSR N-3000 /

DOW CHEMICAL

WATER 9,5

BHYDROXYPROPYL STARCH

PHOSPHATE2,0 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO NOBEL

WATER 20,0

C ACRYLATES COPOLYMER(30%) 2,0 Thickening polymer CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 / LUBRIZOL

ACRYLATES/VINYL NEODECANOATE

CROSSPOLYMER(29%)3,0 Thickening polymer ACULYN 38 / DOW CHEMICAL

WATER 5,0

D AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 33,0 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC

SODIUM LAUROAMPHOACETATE(30%)

3,0 Co-surfactantSOFTAZOLINE LHL /

KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS

LAURAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE(30%) 6,0 Co-surfactantSOFTAZOLINE LPB /

KAWAKEN FINE CHEMICALS

PRESERVATIVE q.s.

WATER balance

E TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0,3 OpacifierTIPEQUE CR-50 /

ISHIHARA SANGYO

F CITRIC ACID (20%) 1,0 pH adjusterTHE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS

PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE

G FRAGRANCE q.s.

9

1110


ASODIUM LAURETH SULFATE

(70%)7,20

Primary cleansing surfactant

TEXPON N-70 / BASF

AMILITE GCK-12H (30%) 10,00 Foam booster, texturizer AJINOMOTO CO. INC

SODIUM COCOYL ISETHIONATE 3,30 Co-surfactant HOSTAPON SCI 85 G / CLARIANT

GLYCERINE 1,00 Moisturizer

SODIUM CHLORIDE 1,00 Viscosity modifier

PRESERVATIVE q.s.

WATER balance

BHYDROXYPROPYL STARCH

PHOSPHATE5,00 Thickening polymer STRUCTURE XL / AKZO

C PETROLATUM 5,00 Emollient SUN WHITE P-200 / NIKKO RICA

DCOCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE

(30%)17,00 Co-surfactant DEHYTON K / BASF

E CITRIC ACID (20% aq.) 0,40 pH adjustmentTHE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS

PRESENTED AS A ROUGH GUIDE.

F FRAGRANCE q.s.

PEARL BODY WASH

This mild body wash is enriched with emollient oil. AMILITE GCK-12H provides a luxurious foam and quick lathering even in the presence of oils. With the "Nourishing by washing

concept" even dry skins have excellent silky feeling after use.

DB-SW-15A-FA

1. Dissolve part A at 70 ~ 80°C with stirring.2. Add part B to part A and mix well.3. Add part C with stirring.4. After confirmation of dissolution, add part D with stirring.5. Cool down to 45°C, then add part E to adjust the pH to 7.0.6. Add part F and cool down to room temperature with stirring.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 7,0Viscosity: 25,000~36,000mPa·s (B-type, Rotor No.4, 12rpm,

30sec., 25°C).Stability: 0°C, 25°C, 45°C, cycle (-5<=>40°C) 1 month.


10

Foaming surfactantAMILITE® G

SLESSCI Sodium cocoyl isethionate

LAA Sodium lauroamphoacetateC12FA Sodium Laurate

CAPBAPG Decyl glucosideMEA cocamide MEA

Below graph shows foam volume of a body wash* using Amilite GCK-12H vs other standard surfactants (dark blue bars). The light blue bars show the impact

of oil addition on each formulation.

*Body wash Test Formulations

DB-KH7A (wt % )

Sodium laureth sulfate (70%) 7,2

Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 17,0

Foaming surfactant 3.0 active

Sodium cocoyl isethionate 3,3

Glycerin 1,0

Glycol distearate 1,0

Laureth-4 1,0

PPG-7 1,0

Sodium chloride 0,8

Thickening polymers 1,5

Sodium hydroxide (10% aq.) to pH6.6

Water balance

Total (%) 100,0

150

140

130

120

Foa

m v

olu

me

(m

l)

110

100GCK-12H SLES SCI LAA C12FA CAPB APG MEA

Mixer method, 1.0wt% body wash, 30°C

DB-KH7A

DB-KH7A+0.6% Petrolatum

Technical data sheet: 0115-1390E & 0115-1400E

11

Anionics surfactantsAMISOFT ECS-22W

SAR: Sodium lauroyl sarcosineISE: Sodium cocoyl isethionateCMT: Sodium cocoyl methyl taurate SLES

1312

TRANSPARENT SHOWER GELKNS-054-21W-6


A AMISOFT ECS-22W (30%) 20,0 Primary foaming surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (30%) 15,0Secondary foaming

surfactantDEHYTON K / BASF

Sodium Lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7Additional foaming

surfactantMIRANOL ULTRA L-32 / SOLVAY - RHODIA

Glyceryl Caprate 2,0 Viscosity modifierSUNSOFT NO.760 / TAIYO KAGAKU

KOGYO

Glycerin 2,0 Moisturizer

Sodium Chloride 0,3 Viscosity modifier

PEG-150 Distearate 0,4 Thickening polymer EMANON 3299V / KAO

Water balance

Preservatives q.s.

B Fragrance q.s.

C Citric Acid (20% aq.) 4,7 pH adjustmentTHE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED

AS A ROUGH GUIDE.

A viscous, sulfate-free, DEA-free clear shower gel. AMISOFT ECS-22W produces rich foam and creamy lather even at weakly acidic pH range. Amisoft can be used as a

primary surfactant and is easy to thicken.

1. Mix part A until homogeneous with stirring at 70~80°C.2. Cool down to 50°C with stirring.3. Add part B.4. Adjust pH to 5.8 ~ 6.0 by part C and cool down to r.t. with stirring.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 5,8Viscosity: 4,000 ~ 8,000 mPa·s (B-type, Rotor No.3 12rpm, 30sec., 25°C).Stability: 25°C, 45°C, cycle(-5<=>40°C) 1 month.


12

*Shampoo Test Formulas (wt % )

Anionic surfactants 6,0 active

Cocamidopropyl betaine (30%) 15,0

Sodium lauroamphoacetate (32%) 4,7

Glyceryl caprate 2,0

Sodium chloride 0,5

PEG-150 distearate 1,0

Citric acid pH 5.8

Water balance

Preservatives q.s.

Total (%) 100,0

Stir at around 3,400 rpm (the lowest speed of the mixer) for 10 sec.

Foam volume (mL)1. 550 mL beaker2. Dilute a shampoo 2~5 g with water (35°C) to 100 g

1

2

METHOD:

Foa

m v

olu

me

(m

l)

Sulfate-free formulation

Foa

m s

tab

ility

(

%)

Afte

r 5 m

inut

es

250 40

50

60

70

80

90

260

270

280

290

300

310

ECS-22W SAR ISE CMT SLES

5% as is, 35°C, tap water (water hardness: 60ppm as CaCO3)


Below graph shows foam volume (blue bars) and foam stability ( ) of a shampoo* containing Amisoft ECS-22W vs the same formulation using

other standard anionic surfactants.

13

FOCUS ON AMIHOPE LL

1716

HAND CREAM

In this hand cream formulation AMIHOPE LL improves absorbency of the cream as well as silky smooth skinfeel. Amisoft HS-11P is used as a co-emulsifier at a very low

percentage to get a very stable formulation.

NEH-3


A MINERAL OIL 13,0 Emollient MORESCOWHITE P70 / MORESCO

PARAFFIN 8,0 Emollient REFINED PARAFFIN WAX / NIKKO RIKA

HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 1,0 Emollient CASTOR WAX A / NOF

STEARYL ALCOHOL 2,0 Emollient

STEARETH-2 6,0 Emulsifier EMALEX 602 / NIHON EMULSION

PEG-8 DISTEARATE 1,2 Emulsifier EMALEX 400di-S / NIHON EMULSION

STEARETH-8 0,4 Emulsifier EMALEX 608 / NIHON EMULSION

CETETH-15 0,3 Emulsifier EMALEX 115 / NIHON EMULSION

ZINC STEARATE 0,2 Texture improver ZINC STEARATE / NOF

AMIHOPE LL 0,5 Texture improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC

B AMISOFT HS-11P 0,1 Co Emulsifier AJINOMOTO CO. INC

PRESERVATIVE q.s.

WATER balance

1. Dissolve and disperse part A with stirring at 80°C. 2. Add part B at 80°C to part A slowly with stirring. 3. Cool down to room temperature with stirring.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 6,5Viscosity: 37,500 - 50,000 mPa.s (B type, rotor N°.4, 12rpm, 30sec., 25°C).Stability: 50°C, 25°C, -5°C, Cycle (-5°C<=>40°C) for one month.


16

Part Ingredient (wt % ) Trade name / Supplier

A TALC, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 18,00 TALC DN-SH / DAI NIHON KASEI

MICA, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER 54,90 SI01-2 MICA No.5500 / DAITO KASEI

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 18,00 CR-50 / ISHIHARA SANGYO

TITANIUM DIOXIDE, ALUMINUM STEARATE 3,00 MT-100Z / TAYCA

IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Red) 0,60 SI01-2 TALLOX LLXLO / DAI NIHON KASEI

IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Yellow) 1,50 SI01-2 TALLOX R-516L / DAI NIHON KASEI

IRON OXIDE, DIMETHICONE/METHICONE COPOLYMER (Black) 0,30 SI01-2 TALLOX BL-100 / DAI NIHON KASEI

SILICA 0,50 SUNSPHERE H-51 / ASAHI GLASS

AMIHOPE LL 2,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

METHYLPARABEN 0,20

B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 0,59 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS

ELDEW PS-203R 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

ELDEW SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

TOCOPHEROL 0,01

LOOSE POWDER FOUNDATIONThis powder foundation provides excellent coverage without sacrificing natural

finish. AMIHOPE LL imparts several features to it: smooth spreadability, good adhesion, excellent coverage, non-drying, matte, not shimmering, natural finish.

On top, AMIHOPE LL reduces drying feel of powders. Eldew SL-205 and Eldew PS-203R are used for their emollience properties. This formulation

containing a lot of powders, Eldew SL-205 is used to improve their dispersability.

LP-0401-3

1. Weigh all ingredients of part A and mill them. 2. Mix part B with heating to 40°C. 3. Add part B to Part A and mill again.

PROCEDURE:

A silicon-treated talc was added to a commercial talc-free loose powder foundation (Foundation A): This pre-mix is called Foundation B: 40wt% of talc added to 60% of foundation. Then 2wt% of Amihope LL were added to Foundation B to get Foundation C.

The foundations were applied to artificial leather (Idemitsu Technofine) by a standardized manner and observed by a video microscope.

Ingredients: mica, titanium dioxide, emollients (oils), antioxidant, preservatives, pigments (ion dioxides etc.).

Talc imparted soft, smooth touch to the spreading feel, and dry, light feel on the skin. With additional 2wt% AMIHOPE LL, natural sheer finish, non-drying feel and coverage were improved. Evaluation on the artificial leather also showed sheer, non-cakey finish (Figure 3, left part) and even film over furrows and ridges (Figure 3, right part).

IN-USE TEST:

Figure 1 - Talc-free product (Foundation A)

Figure 2 - Foundation B(Silicone-treated talc added)

Figure 3 - Foundation C(2% AMIHOPE LL added)

17

1918


A TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 38.92 Emollient NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE 5.20 Emollient SILICONE STV-5 / DOW CORNING

TITANIUM DIOXIDE 7.42 UV filter TTO-D2 / ISHIHARA SANGYO

SILICA, METHICONE 4.67 Texturizer SI-5 SILDEX H-52 / DAITO KASEI

MICA, DEA-C8-18 PERFLUOROALKYLETHYL PHOSPHATE

1.85 Extender PF-5 MICA N°.5500 / DAITO KASEI

POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 5.93 Texturizer TOSPEARL 2000B / MOMENTIVE

AMIHOPE LL 1.00 Sensory improver AJINOMOTO CO. INC

ELDEW PS-203R 0.50 Pseudo-ceramide AJINOMOTO CO. INC

B PIGMENT DISPERSION (WHITE) 10.72 Pigment DIDW 50 DF / KOBO

PIGMENT DISPERSION (YELLOW) 1.03 Pigment DIDW 45 DYF / KOBO

PIGMENT DISPERSION (RED) 0.33 Pigment DIDW 40 DRF / KOBO

PIGMENT DISPERSION (BLACK) 0.17 Pigment DIDW 55 DBF / KOBO

C OCTYLDODECANOL 18.75 Solubilizer for GP-1 EUTANOL G / BASF

GELATINIZATION AGENT GP-1 3.50 Oil gelling agent AJINOMOTO CO. INC

BB BALM

A highly concealing foundation formulation using our pseudo-ceramide ingredient Eldew PS-203R. Amihope LL, our functional powder and our amino acid derived

Gelatinization Agent GP-1 provide good spreadability, turning the smooth oil gel into powder, leaving a non-oily silky soft feel on the skin.

ACAC-BB-08

1. Mix part B until uniform at room temperature. 2. Mix part A at room temperature.3. Dissolve part C at 120°C with stirring.4. Heat part A around 80 - 90°C.5. Add part B to part A while heating around 80-90°C.6. Add part C to mixer and mix at 80°C.7. Pour into a jar quickly. Cool down to room temperature without mixing.

PROCEDURE:

Stability: 1, 25, 45°C, Cycle (-5 n<=>40°C), for 3 months.TECHNICAL INFORMATION:

418


A Aqua q.s.

Sclerotium Gum 0,30 ACTIGUM VSX 20 / CARGILL

Carrageenan 0,30 SATIAGUM CD / CARGILL

Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer (and) Water (and) Aminomethyl Propanol 5,00 KOBOGUARD 50 AMP / KOBO

B METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 1,00 GLUCATE SS / LUBRIZOL

PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE 3,00 GLUCAMATE SSE-20 / LUBRIZOL

Eldew SL-205 0,20 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

Isopropyl Isostearate 6,00 SCHERCEMOL 318 / LUBRIZOL

Phenyltrimethicone 2,00 BRB PTM 20 / BRB

Trimethylsiloxysilicate (and) Dimethicone 2,50 BRB TMS 30D / BRB

Titanium Dioxide (and) Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrated Silica (and) Algin (And) Aluminum Hydroxide 6,00 COMPOSITE ACT 50 / KOBO

Amihope LL 1,00 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

Tocopherol 0,10 DL-ALPHA TOCOPHEROL / EISAI

C Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 3,50 GLW45GYSP / KOBO

Iron Oxides [C.I. 77492] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 0,50 GLW55GRSP / KOBO

Iron Oxides [C.I. 77499] (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 0,25 GLW60GBSP / KOBO

Titanium Dioxide (and) Water (and) Glycerin (and) Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Cellulose Gum 6,00 GLW75PFSP / KOBO

D Preservatives 1,00

Polymethylsilsesquioxane (and) Alumina 1,50 MSP-AK06/ KOBO

Fragrance 0,20 PARFUM ORANGE BLOSSOM / IFF

Mica (and) Titanium dioxide (and) iron oxides (C.J.77491) 0,12 KTZ SUNBURST GOLD/ KOBO

CUSHION CREAM The lightweight water foundation is inspired from the Korean concept of Cushion Cream. Eldew SL-205 helps dispersing pigments without sticky effect. Amihope LL

gives silky feeling during application, which is really easy thanks to the pad.

CUSHION CREAM

1. Heat water and Koboduard 50AMP up to 70-75°C.2. Add Actigum VSX20 and Satiagum CD while stirring, until complete gel formation.3. Heat phase B at 70-75°C4. At 70-75°C under stirring, poor phase B in Phase A. Homogenised for 2 minutes (Ultra-Turrax, 7200rpm).

Cool it down to 40°C.5. Prepare phase C and add it to previous one (40°C). Stir until homogeneous colour is obtained.6. Add phase D and then phase E. Stir.7. Adjust pH at 5.6-5.8.After 24h, pH will increase.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 6.1-6.3Viscosity: 680 cPs (RVT mobile SC4-21, speed 50).Stability: 1 month at 50°C / 3 months at 40°C.


5 19

2120

PEARL HAIR SHAMPOO

Preparation of recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate:When AMIHOPE LL is precipitated in a surfactant solution the particle size tends to be

smaller and the dispersing the LL in a liquid cleansing formulation is easier. This AMIHOPE LL concentrate is stable, suitable as a premix for various preparations.

NSPX-0019

LL Concentrate(wt %)

AMIHOPE LL 12,5

Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0

Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0

Sodium hydroxide 2,7

Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0

Water to 100.0

AMIHOPE LL 12.5NaOH 2.7Water 34.8

Stir and dissolveat room

temperature

Stir and dissolveat room

temperature

Stir at room temperature*1*2

Lauryl glucoside (50%)*A 15.0Decyl glucoside (50%)*B 15.0

*A PLANTACARE 1200up Cognis*B PLANTACARE 2000up Cognis

*1 The condition of stirring depends on the vessel size or the impeller shape. Particle size of AMIHOPE LL tends to be smaller when being precipitated at lower temperature and with stronger stirring.

*2 Stir more gently once the formulation becomes thickened in order to avoid bubble entanglement.

Clear

Avoid bubble formation.Remove the entangled bubble before the next step.

PrecipitationCitric acid (30% aq.) 20.0

Cf. The adding rate: 0.1g / sec (100g scale)

Recrystallized AMIHOPE LL concentrate


20

This mild shampoo is suitable for natural concept: thanks to the use of recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate, a natural pearlescent effect is obtained. In addition,

AMIHOPE LL improves conditioning property of the shampoo. Amisoft CS-22 is used as a natural cleansing surfactant.

1. Thoroughly disperse part A in part B at room temperature. 2. Add part C to part A and stir until homogeneous at room temperature. 3. In a separate vessel mix part D and stir until it becomes clear. 4. Add part E to part D with gentle stirring.5. While agitating part D add part F and stir until homogeneous

concentrate preparation6. Add part D to part A with stirring. 7. Adjust the pH to 5.4 with part G.

PROCEDURE:

pH: 5,4 Viscosity: 2,000 - 3,000 mPa.s (B type, rotor No.3, 30rpm, 30sec., 25°C).Stability: 50°C, 40°C, 25°C, 0°C, -5°C, Cycle for a month.


Part Ingredient (wt %) Function Trade name / Supplier

A XANTHAN GUM 1,00 Thickening polymer KELTROL CGT / CP KELCO

B WATER 49,00

C AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 10,00 Cleansing surfactant AJINOMOTO CO. INC

COCO-GLUCOSIDE (52%) 6,00 Co-surfactant PLANTACARE 818UP / BASF

GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 2,00 Foam booster SUNSOFT 700-P2 / TAIYO KAGAKU

ARGININE 0,30 Foam booster AJINOMOTO CO. INC

WATER balance

DAMIHOPE LL 0,63 Conditioning / peralizing agent

& foam boosterAJINOMOTO CO. INC

SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0,14 Neutralizer for LL

WATER 2,43

E LAURYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 1200UP / BASF

DECYL GLUCOSIDE (50%) 0,75 Dispersing agent PLANTACARE 2000UP / BASF

F CITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 1,00 pH adjuster

GCITRIC ACID (30% AQ.) 2,00 pH adjuster THE LEVEL OF CITRIC ACID IS PRESENTED

AS A ROUGH GUIDE.

21

3+4+5 = recrystallized Amihope LL

2322

PEARL HAIR SHAMPOONSPX-0019

SENSORY TEST:By addition of AMIHOPE LL to a hair shampoo formulation using recrystallized Amihope LL concentrate,

foamability and hair-feel during washing and rinsing are improved.

Without AMIHOPE LL With AMIHOPE LL

Lauryl glucoside (50%) 9,0 9,0

AMISOFT CS-22 (25%) 20,0 20,0

Citric acid (30% aq.) 2,7 2,7

Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 4,0 4,0

AMISAFE AL-01 0,2 0,2

Magnesium chloride 1,5 1,5

Glyceryl caprate 3,0 3,0

A: Control 5,0 -

B: AMIHOPE LL concentrate - 5,0

Water to 100.0 to 100.0

AMIHOPE LL conc. (wt%) 0,000 0,625

A: Control B: LL Concentrate

AMIHOPE LL - 12,5

Lauryl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0

Decyl glucoside (50%) 15,0 15,0

Sodium hydroxide 2,7 2,7

Citric acid (30% aq.) 4,0 4,0

Water to 100.0 to 100.0


Below pictures show result of the formulation NSPX-0019 using Amihope LL (left bottle and drop) and the result without Amihope LL (right bottle and drop):

22


The shampoo with AMIHOPE LL was perceived as better performing in terms of foamability, finger-through during washing, hair smoothness and detangling

property during rinse.

n=11Foam quality

Foam speed

Foam volume

Duringwashing

Duringrinsing

Afterrinsing

Finger through

Hair softness

Hair smoothness

Detangling

Wet hair smoothness

Preference

Shampoo with AMIHOPE LL is Better Equal WorseSENSORY TEST RESULT:

23

UPDATE ON GELATINIZATION AGENTS

2726

LIPGLOSS

GELATINIZATION AGENTS: To get gelatinization agents, we add an alkyl long chain to glutamic acid. The alkyl chain of

EB-21 is branched and the one of GP-1 is linear. On top, each gelatinization agent has 3 amide functions which can form hydrogen bonds.

LGMS-B10GP

You can get really innovative products thanks to the kind of texture obtained with our gelling agents. It is possible to get a jelly (as on the right hand picture) or a hard gel but it is not

possible to get a viscous oil (as on the left hand picture).

L-Glutamic acid

H2N

O

O

OH

OH

Achievable textures by gelatinization agents

Oil gel

ACHIEVABLE

Texture that cannot be achieved by gelatinization agents

Viscous Oil,flowable

NOT ACHIEVABLE

*

CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Lauroyl GlutamideGP-1

HN N

H

NH

EB-21CTFA INCI Name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide

O O

HN N

H

NH

*

26

*

Vis

co

sity

(Pa

s)

Viscosity ofcommerciallip gloss

Hydrogenated polyisobutene: Octyldodecanol = 80 : 20

Concentration of EB-21, GP-1 (wt%)

0

0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0.4 0.5 0.6

10

20

30

40

60

50


A GP-1 0,4 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

OCTYLDODECANOL 10,0 RISONOL 20SP / KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO

B TRIETHYLHEXANOIN 25,0 NIKKOL TRIFAT S-308 / NIKKO CHEMICALS

DIISOSTEARYL MALATE 10,0 COSMOL 222S / NISSHIN OILLIO

ELDEW PS-203R 8,0 AJINOMOTO CO. INC

TOCOPHEROL q.s.

PRESERVATIVE q.s.

C HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE balance PARLEAM V / NOF

HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE 20,0 PARLEAM HV / NOF

D PEARLESCENT PIGMENT q.s. REFLECKS RAYS OF RED / BASF

GP-1 is used in this lipgloss formulation to reduce stringy effect of hydrogenated polyisobutene. On top, it enables excellent transparency and non-sticky feeling on the lips. Eldew PS-203R, our ceramide-like ingredient, is used as a damage prevention and

damage repair ingredient.

1. Dissolve part A at 92°C with stirring.2. Add part B to part A at 75°C, and mix well.3. Add part C to part A at 70°C, and mix well.4. Add part D to part A at 70°C, and mix well.5. Cool down to room temperature.

PROCEDURE:

Stability: 5°C, 25°C, 40°C, Cycle (-5<=>40°C) for 1 month.TECHNICAL INFORMATION:

Below formulation is a great example showing how our gelatinization agents can reduce stringy effect. Indeed EB-21/GP-1 can increase the viscosity of viscous oils such as hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Not stringy while lifting up but good spreadability during rubbingEB-21 GP-1

27

2928

Product category Product Formulation ref Application Page

Amilite GCK-12H

YSF-73-6Facial Cleanser

Cream09

DB-SW-15A-FA Pearl Body Wash 10

Amisoft ECS-22W KNS-054-21W-6Transparent Shower Gel

12

ANIONIC SURFACANT Amisoft CS-22 NSPX-0019Pearl Hair Shampoo

20

Amisoft HS-11P NEH-3 Hand Cream 16

Amisoft LS-11(F) LPS-88Facial Wash

Paste06

HUMECTANT

Ajidew NL-50 LPS-88Facial Wash

Paste06

Amisfe LL-DS-22 LPS-88Facial Wash

Paste06

FORMULATION FINDER Product category Product Formulation ref Application Page

LP-0401-3Loose Powder

Foundation17

Eldew PS-203R ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18

EMOLLIENT

LGMS-B10GPTransparent

Lipgloss26

Eldew SL-205


Foundation17

Cushion Cream

Cushion Cream

19

NEH-3 Hand Cream 16


Foundation17

FUNCTIONAL POWDER Amihope LL ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18

Cushion Cream

Cushion Cream

19

NSPX-0019Pearl Hair Shampoo

20

GELATINIZATION AGENTS GP-1

ACAC-BB-08 BB Balm 18

LGMS-B10GPTransparent

Lipgloss26

AMINO ACID L-Arginince C NSPX-0019Pearl Hair Shampoo

20

3130

NOTES

Note: The information is provided based upon our technical data and present knowledge. However, we make no warranties, expressed or implied, and assume no liabilities in connection with any use of the information with respect to specific property, safety and suitability for a specific application. It is also not guaranteed that use of the information does not fall within the scope of any intellectual property rights.

CONTACT

S.A. Ajinomoto OmniChem N.V.

Industrial Research Park Fleming B-1348 Louvain-la-Neuve

Belgium

Phone : +32 10 48 32 22Fax: +32 10 45 62 27

[email protected]

www.ulprospector.com

Date post:	31-Jan-2018
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