25 Jigs in 45 Pages

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages

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25 Jigs in 45 Pages

Supplied by WOOD Magazine, Compiled by Traumajunkie

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7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Bandsaw Resawing Guide

This resawing guide lets you correct for blade drift, and you can build it from parts you

probably have lying around your shop.

After struggling with his bandsaw fence, blocks, clamps, and a resaw guide, WOOD® magazine

reader John Hodges of Kaufman, Texas, decided to design his own bandsaw resawing guide.You can build one just like it by gathering up some scrap stock and following the illustrations

below.

To use this guide, first mark a line along the top edge of the piece to be resawn. Adjust the center

portion of the jig (A) until the bandsaw blade aligns with the marked line on the wood. Tighten

the wing nuts that hold A securely to B. Tighten the wing nut in part C to secure it in the miter-gauge slot.

Because few bandsaw blades track perfectly straight (making a fence almost useless for resawing), the curved end of part A allows you to steer the board into the bandsaw blade and

make adjustments to follow your marked line. We recommend using a 1/2"- to 3/4"-wide skip-

tooth or hook-tooth blade for cleaner cuts. And, always use a pushstick for safety when resawing

on a bandsaw.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Bore Vertical holes with scrap stock jig

Here's a quick-fix jig that will come in handy the next time you need to bore a vertical hole in theend of a long workpiece. To make the clamp block, laminate two 2x4s, one 9" long and the other

17" long, as shown in the drawing below. Then, joint the sides that face the workpiece and the

drill-press table to achieve a perfect 90° angle.

Next, joint the edges and faces of the 1-1/2x2x10" fence to perfect 90° angles. Use a framingsquare to align the two pieces at 90°. Then, fasten the fence to the clamp block with glue and

four #8x2-1/2" flathead wood screws, and adhere a piece of 150-grit sandpaper to the clamp

block as shown. Now, clamp the jig to the drill-press table, clamp the workpiece to the jig, and

you're ready to bore your hole.

E. C. Peters, Brighton, Ont.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


One way to make a perfect circle

Disc-sand the workpiece with this quick-and-easy jig

the drawing below, from a couple of pieces of particleboard or plywood. Then follow the three

steps shown in the photos, below.

Position the jig on your disc sander's table with the cleatcontacting the table's right-hand corner, but about 2" away from

its left-hand corner. With a single clamp, secure the jig's base to

the table. As shown in photo 1.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Fasten the oversize bandsawn top to the jig's base with a #8×1-

1/4" flathead wood screw. The top overhangs the edge of the

jig's base that faces the sanding disc by about 1/4". As shown in

photo 2.

Switch on the sander. Pivot the jig until the cleat contacts the

sander's table along its full length. Rotate the top against thedisc. Keep the jig's base and cleat tight against the sander's

table. As shown in photo 3.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Dowel Chamfering Jig

Create precise chamfers on dowel stock with this nifty disc-sander accessory jig.

Create precise chamfers with this nifty disc-sander accessory jig.

Chamfered dowels insert easier for alignment purposes, and chamfered ends also create glue

space for stronger dowel joints.

To quickly create your own consistently chamfered dowels, build the jig shown. We used 1/4" plywood for the base and 3/4" plywood for the two 45° guides.

The key is that the right-hand guide is moveable to widen or narrow the gap between the guides,allowing you to increase or decrease the size of the sanded chamfer. We screwed the lefthand

guide in place, and secured the right-hand guide with double-faced tape. To use the jig, simply

clamp it to your disc-sander table so the inside edge of the jig is next to but not touching the

sanding disc. Start the sander, slide the dowel along the left-hand guide, and rotate the end of thedowel clockwise against the disc. The right-hand guide acts as a stop to prevent you from

sanding too large a chamfer. If the chamfered end isn't sanding enough, simply move the right-hand guide away from the other guide.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Dowel jig has perfect cuts pegged

I needed a number of same-length dowels for a recent project. To keep my hands away from thetablesaw blade while cutting these, I made a dowel-cutting sled that allows me to make multiple

cuts of identical lengths safely and accurately.

First, I cut a 1/4" slot 1/4" deep across the sled that safely holds dowels from 1/4" to 7/18" in

diameter. Next, I attached a 1x2 clamping fence to the sled as shown, and clamped it to my miter gauge so that the distance between the right-hand edge of the sled and the saw blade equaled the

length of the dowel I wanted.

To make multiple dowels, I slide the dowel stock so that it?s flush with the edge of the jig, make

the cut, and then back the sled out of the blade. Sliding the dowel stock to the end of the sled

again safely ejects the cut-off dowel and readies the next cut. You can cut additional kerfs in thesled, if you like, for different lengths of dowels as needed.

— David Ramsey, Cleveland, Tenn.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Dowel Gauge

Doweling can turn dicey when the dowels don't quite

measure up to their stated diameter -- or the hole you

drill is too shallow or too deep. The solution? Build our4-in-1 dowel gauge. With it you can double-check these

measurements before you assemble a project.

Here are the four features this handy helper provides:

1. The dowel-sizing gauge on the face of the block offers

three holes with standard dowel diameters plus holes that

measure 1/64" larger and smaller than the standarddiameters. Check the fit of your dowels in these holes, then you can select the appropriate drill

bit if your dowel is just a hair too big or too little.

2. When you want to drill a hole to a precise depth, use the hole-depth gauge. Just insert your

drill bit in the appropriate hole, and mark the depth on the shank of the bit with a piece of tape.

3. The dowel-hole depth gauge gives you two holes that measure one-half the length of two

standard dowel lengths -- 1-1/2" and 2" -- plus 1/16". Use these holes to mark the depth on your

drill bit. By drilling your dowel holes 1/16" deeper, you give excess glue a place to escape andyour dowel won't protrude too far from its hole.

4. At the rear of the block, the V-slot helps keep your drill bit plumb. Just place the bit on theworkpiece, push the slot up to the bit, and tilt the bit until it fits snugly in the corner of the slot.

To build the gauge, use a piece of kiln-dried hardwood. This will help minimize any humidity-related swelling and shrinking of the wood.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Drawer Pull JigMount every type of pull precisely with this quick-to-make drilling guide.

Sizing

Installing a drawer pull or two is no problem:

A couple of measurements take care of it. Butfor a project with lots of drawers an out-of-

line pull would stick out like a Hummer in a

lot full of hybrids. Positioning the pullmounting holes with a jig custom-made for

the project guarantees uniform placement

every time.

A jig guarantees perfect pilot-hole

placement on every drawer front.The tape flag sets the holes' depth.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Sizing your jig

The jig consists of only three parts -- and for some applications, just two [drawing]. Make thecleat from solid wood to match the thickness of the drawer fronts. For the drill guide and

optional backer board, 1/4" plywood or hardboard works well. Cover the back face of the drill

guide with painter's tape to prevent marring the finish on the drawer.

The size of the drawer front determines the sizes of the drill guide and backer board. For the

Media Cabinet, we matched the drill guide to the width of the drawers. That made it easy to align by matching the edges of the jig to the ends of the drawer fronts, right . For wider drawers size

the jig just an inch or so wider than the screw holes in the pull.

To ready the jig for use, draw a centerline on the drill guide and lay out the pull's screw locationsfrom this centerline. Place a piece of painter's tape on the drawer front and mark on it the

centerline of the pull. Slip the cleat onto the top of the drawer front and align the centerlines.

There are three types of drawer fronts; each requires a slightly different set of holes in the jig.Let's look at each of these variations of the jig.

For screwed-on pulls

For pulls that require pilot holes for wood screws, see photo right, build the jig without the backer board. Lay out the locations of the pilot holes. Then, to prevent drilling through the

drawer face, wrap a tape flag around your drill bit to act as a depth stop.

For through holesPulls secured from the back by a

machine screw require a jig with allthree parts. The backer board preventschip-out as the bit exits the hole. After

laying out the shank-hole locations on

the jig, clamp or hold the jig securely

to the drawer front photo and drill theshank holes.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


For false fronts with counterboresWhen using pulls secured from the

rear of a false drawer front, the head of the machine screw must rest in a

counterbore so the false front can be

screwed flush to the front of thedrawer box. In this situation, you'llneed a jig with a counterbore-size hole

in the backer board and a screw-shank-

size hole in the drill guide.

Lay out the location of the shank holes

on the drill guide. But before drillingthem, place a scrap between the drill

guide and backer board and bore

completely through the jig with a 1/16"

bit. Then switch to the shank-hole-diameter bit and enlarge the hole in the

drill guide only. Next, change to aForstner or brad-point bit the diameter of the counterbores. Place the spur of

the bit on the 1/16" hole in the backer

board, drill through the backer only,

then toss the scrap away.

To use the jig, place it over the drawer front and drill the holes as shown in

photos.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Exact-Width Dado JigCut dadoes to the desired width with the help of this handy shop aid.

Here's a jig for routing bookcase or cabinet-side dadoes that exactly match

the thickness of your shelf stock.Better yet, no special bits are needed.

Just use an ordinary straight bit and a

guide bushing. (We used a 1" guide

bushing and a 1/2" straight bit.) Tostart, cut a 3/8" rabbet 3/8" deep along

the inside edge of both guide rails (A).

Then complete the jig as shown in the

drawing below. To customize the railsfor a different bushing and bit, install

them in your router, and trim the

protruding lip of the rabbet in theguide rails, as shown in the Dadoing

Detail. The remaining lip will now

match your bushing/bit combo.

To adjust the jig for the exact width of your shelf stock, slip the jig over the shelf stock as shown

in the Adjusting the Jig drawing. Pull the guide rails (A) tightly against the stock, and tighten the

wing nuts. Slip the jig off the stock, and clamp the jig onto the piece being dadoed, centering theopening between the rails (A) over the marked dado on the side panel. Adjust the depth of cut

with your router sitting on top of the rails. Start the router and make one pass with the guide bushing riding against one of the rabbeted rails. Make a second pass riding the bushing againstthe opposite rabbeted rail.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Easy-Lock Feather BoardGuarantee perfect rip cuts with this quick-to-set tablesaw helper.

Creating the feather board

When ripping stock on your tablesaw, keep itfirmly and safely against the fence with this

handy adjustable locking feather board. Not only

does it prevent wavy cuts, it guards againstdangerous kickback. To build one, use the

drawing at right and patterns on the next web

page to cut handle (A) and feather board (B) to

size and shape, noting the location of the anglednotch and counterbored hole in the handle. Use a

bandsaw to cut the 2 1/2"-long kerfs in the

feather board and the curved portion of the

handle, where located on the pattern. Cut the 30°angled notch in the handle's bottom edge using a

dado blade in your tablesaw along with an

auxiliary wood fence on your miter gauge for support.

To finalize the feather board, countersink andslide a 5/16" washer onto the head of the

machine screw, slide the threaded end through

the handle, and fit a washer and 4-arm knob ontothe end. Fit part B into the angled notch, and

slide the bottom edge of the handle and thewasher into the mitergauge slot on your tablesaw

where shown bottom right. If the washer is toowide for your miter-gauge slot, you may need to

grind down the outside edges for a good fit.

Using the feather boardWith the saw off, slide the workpiece between the feather board and fence. Position the trailing

edge of the feather board about 1" in front of the leading edge of the saw blade, where shown in

the photos on the previous page. Put too close to the blade, the feather board can pinch the kerf and cause the workpiece to bind on the blade.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Position the shorter leading finger against the piece to be ripped. The piece should slide

smoothly, yet be held firmly against the rip fence. If pushing the workpiece between the feather

board and rip fence offers too much resistance, back part B off slightly. Once properly positioned, tighten the 4-arm knob to secure the assembly in place.

Project design: Vernon Lee; Scott Spierling

http://void%280%29/

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Fairing Stick

When he needed to lay out smooth arcs on theAdirondack chair on page 74 of issue 149, WOOD®

magazine Master Craftsman Chuck Hedlund turnedto his shop-made fairing stick. Chuck's version,

shown above at left , features an adjustable cord witha sliding "toggle" that locks in the desired arc for

hassle-free use.

To make your own, start with a 3/4"-wide piece of 1/8" tempered hardboard. The length is up to you;

but at 24", this one handles most layout chores. Also

cut a piece to size for the toggle. Now drill the four 1/8" holes, as dimensioned, through the ends of both

pieces.

Next, thread a length of #18 nylon mason's cord (ours measured 38"), following the arrows in the

drawing below. The cord gets tied to one end of the fairing stick, then goes through the holes in

the toggle, loops through the other end of the fairing stick, and ties back to the toggle.

To use the fairing stick, start by figuring out the endpoints and midpoint of the arc you want to

create. Here's where you'll appreciate Chuck's toggle device. Instead of using clamps or nails tohold the ends of the stick in place, just slide the toggle to flex the stick until it matches your

desired arc. Friction locks the toggle in place, retaining the correct shape. Now align the stick on

your workpiece and trace. If you have multiple pieces to mark, you can pick up the stick and

move it without losing your setting.

When you're not using the fairing stick, slide the toggle to release tension on the stick. Thatminimizes any "memory" setting in. If this happens, just adjust the cord and flex the stick in the

opposite direction.

Also, if you need a fairing stick greater than 3' long, increase the stick's width to about 1-1/2" to

keep it from twisting sideways under tension. For a really long stick, switch to 1/4"-thick

hardboard.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Half-lap joint jigCutting on-the-money rabbets for half-lap joints with a portable circular saw and handheld router is a

breeze with this two-in-one jig.

Build the jig

You can make a simple half-lap joint on your tablesaw with a dado blade, miter-gauge extension,and a workpiece stop. But when working with very long parts, cutting them on a tablesaw provesawkward at best, and maybe unsafe. And what if you don't own a tablesaw? Here's how to form

the rabbets that make up a half-lap joint with portable tools. With this jig, you'll save time by

cutting several parts with one setup.

First, build the jigTo make the jig base, measure from the motor edge of your circular-saw base to the blade, and

add 1/8". Then chuck a 1/2" straight bit into your router, measure from the edge of the router

subbase to the bit, and add 1/8". To these two dimensions, add 1 1/2" for the guide, and cut an18"-long piece of 1/2" medium-density fiberboard to this width.

Cut the guide to the size shown right . Glue and clamp it to the base. Then, with the glue dry,

clamp the base to your workbench with the saw side overhanging. With the saw base against the

guide, trim the saw side to width. Now with the router side overhanging the workbench, use your

router with the 1/2" bit to trim the router side to width.

Measure the trimmed width of the base, and cut two cleats to this length. Then glue and clamp

the cleats to the bottom of the base, flush at the ends and edges.

Put the jig to work

Mark the pieces to be cutClamp together, edge to edge, the parts to be rabbeted. Secure them to your workbench with theends and faces flush. Mark a line across the parts at the rabbet shoulders. Then, to prevent chip-

out when the router bit exits the last part, adjust the cut depth of your circular-saw blade to one-

half the thickness of the parts. Now cut a saw kerf at the rabbet shoulders, as shown top photo.

Chuck a 1/2" straight bit into your router, and adjust the cut depth to one-half the thickness of the

parts. Then rotate the jig and clamp it to the parts, pushing the infeed end cleat against the first

part to keep the jig square. Now clean out the rabbets, as shown second photo. Move the jig infrom the part ends until the cut meets the saw kerf

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Align the saw edge of the jig with

the rabbet layout line, clamp the jig

in place, and cut a saw kerf to definethe rabbet shoulders.

To clean out the rabbets, start with

the router edge of the jig 3/8" from

the stile ends, and make repeatrouter cuts to the saw kerf.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Hinge Location Jig

Transfer hinge locations from door to carcase with marksmanlike

accuracy.

Mounting hinges on an inset cabinet door is a straightforward process.You lay the door on your workbench, locate the hinges where you

want them, and screw them in place. If they need to be mortised, youmark the outline of the hinge leaf with a knife or chisel. But how do

you accurately transfer the hinge locations to the carcase or to another door? Project building

Chuck Hedlund faced this situation not once, but four times when making the built-in bookcases

featured in the April 2001 issue of WOOD magazine. To solve the problem, he devised a single-use jig. Here's how to make your own.

Cut a 2-1/4"-wide, 1/4" plywood rail 3" longer than the door you are hanging, and two 3/4x2-1/4x2-1/4" plywood stopblocks. then cut four 1/4x3x3" plywood index blocks for each hinge.Glue and clamp the stopblocks to the rail at one end, as shown above. Now, temporarily remove

the rail.

Stick small pieces of double-faced tape to the door next to the hinges. Adhere index blocks to thedoor, snug against the hinges, as shown below.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Stick a large piece of double-faced tape to each installed index block. Now, hook one of the rail'sstopblocks on the door's top edge, and press the rail onto the index blocks, as shown below.

Keep the rail's back edge and the index blocks' back edges flush.

To make the jig usable on both right- and left-handed doors, align a second set of index blockswith the first, sandwiching the rail between them, as below. Carefully remove the rail and

attached blocks from the door. Drive 1/2" wire brads from both sides to lock the squares in place.

Hooking one stopblock on each door's top edge, use the jig to locate the hinges on the rest of the

doors. Drill the hinge screw pilot holes.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Once again, hook the jig's stopblock on a door's top edge. Mark and trim the rail to extend 1/16" beyond the door's bottom, as shown here. This extra 1/16" is the gap between the door and the

carcase. Mark the jig's top end. Remove the stopblocks by cutting the rail just above the topindex blocks, as shown.

Now the jig is ready to position the hinges in the carcase. Simply placethe jig against the inside of the cabinet with the rail's marked end up, as

shown at right. Clamp or use double-faced tape to hold the jig in place.

The index blocks bracket the hinges, just as they did on the doors.Position the hinges between the index blocks, and drill the screw pilot

holes.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


A jig for rounding turning squares

Before turning narrow pieces, such as chess pieces or dowels, between centers, it's easier on the

workpiece (and the woodworker) to knock off the four corners, making the square spindle into an

octagon. This simple guide clamps to your bandsaw table to do the job.

— Franklin Zia and Arthur Mendel, Richmond, Calif.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Long-part Stopblock

Make your miter-gauge extension work longer and harder by increasing its reach.

Miter-gauge extension

Stopblock on your miter-gaugeextension provides a simple, foolproof way to crosscut multiple parts to equal

length without measuring each one.

But what if you're cutting extra-long

parts, such as table legs? In that case,clamp on a long-part stopblock like

this one.

Start by attaching an MDF or plywood

miter-gauge extension to your miter gauge. Make it at least 1" wider thanthe thickness of your workpieces and

long enough to reach from just past the

blade on one end to 6" or so past the

end of the miter gauge on the other end. Mount it to your saw's stock miter

gauge, and cut a kerf that marks the

blade position.

Building and using the stopblock

Subtract the length of the extension from the final length of the workpiece, and cut a strip of 3/4"-thick MDF or plywood about 10" longer than that distance. Next crosscut a 1 1/2"-long piece off the strip and screw it to one end of the strip, where shown at right.

To use the stopblock, measure the length of the parts you'll cut and clamp it that distance fromthe kerf. Butt the workpiece end against the stopblock (without bending the extension) and

crosscut the part.

If the stopblock slips or wobbles, add a second clamp or adhere 100-grit sandpaper to the back

side of the miter-gauge extension where it overlaps the long-part stopblock.

To cut parts with mitered ends, replace the stopblock with one that's mitered the same angle as

your part. Completely capturing the mitered workpiece end adds dead-on repeatability to those

cuts. Always check to make sure there's no sawdust between your workpiece and the stopblock.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Pivoting outfeed table

Having a roller stand in the

shop is almost like havinganother person around to

help you work with long

and cumbersome material, but roller stands also have

a frustrating flaw: If the

material is warped or droopy, you'll probably

knock over the stand

before you get help fromit. The tilting plywood

platform, shown at right,

virtually eliminates this

problem.

To use it with your tablesaw, set the level platform

height to match your tablesaw top, and then tilt the platform toward the saw. When you feed the board

through, it catches the platform and levels it out,

and the roller stand will remain standing.

- J. D. Stanley, Cleveland Heights, Ohio

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Versatile Panel-Cutting Sled

Split a hair and make it square with our wide-body tablesaw accessory.

When you use our panel-cutting sled,you'll never wonder if the corner you

just cut is square. For hair-splittingaccuracy, the beefy fence is fixed at

90° to the blade and shows exactlywhere your saw blade will cut.

Additionally, the fence-leading design

holds wider workpieces more solidlyand keeps your work closer than fence-

trailing jigs.

Build the jig according to the drawing,

below. We made ours from birch-veneer plywood with a solid poplar

fence, but you could use any 1/2"

plywood or medium-density fiberboard

and a straight scrap of 2x4. Cut both pieces 1/8" longer than shown; you'll

trim them to their exact length after

you build the jig.

Note: A well-tuned tablesaw is essential to complete the job. The saw blade must be perfectly

parallel to the miter slot.

Before attaching the miter-slot bar, ensure the corner formed by the fence and the right edge of

the sled is square. Make a mark 3" from the corner along one edge, and 4" along the perpendicular edge. Measure diagonally between the two marks. If the diagonal measures exactly

5", your corner is square. If it's more than 5", the angle is greater than 90° ; less than 5", and it's

less than 90°.

Next, measure the distance between your tablesaw's blade and miter slot and add 1/8". Using that

measurement and a combination square, scribe a line on the bottom of the sled, measuring from

the saw blade edge. Attach the miter-slot bar along the scribed line.

With the sled's guide bar in your tablesaw's miter-gauge slot, crank the saw blade up to fullheight. Run the sled through the blade, slicing off the extra 1/8" from both the base and the

fence.

You now can cut with confidence by aligning the cut line on your workpiece with the edge of the

fence. For repetitive cuts less than 27", clamp a stopblock to the fence. When cutting pieces up to

48", lock in the sled's built-in stopblock

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Planer Jigs

The jigs shown below are from the article "Get the Most from Your Planer" from issue 173,

November 2006, of WOOD magazine.

Planer through edge jig

Build the jig shown right , from 3/4" plywood or hardwood. (We used

poplar on a Baltic birch base.) This

jig will fit most planers, but you canmeasure your planer and adjust the

dimensions as necessary. Cut out the

two long vertical supports by first

taping them together with double-face

tape, then cutting and sanding thecurves. Attach the supports to each

other and to the base with #8 x 1-1/4" brass flat-head wood screws.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Planer infeed edge jig

Build the two parts to the jig shown below — which are mirror images of each other — from 3/4"Baltic birch plywood or hardwood. Fix the two curved vertical support parts together with

double-faced tape, then cut the curve on the bandsaw and sand smooth. Attach the supports to

each other and to the base with #8x1-1/4" brass wood screws. Just be sure when assembling themto make them mirror images.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Raised-Panel Pushing Jig

I really liked your technique for making simple raised-panel doors for

the pine hutch in issue #147 (page 67).I've been using a similar technique for

some time, and my panel-pushing jig,shown below, makes it safe and easy

to cut the beveled edge on the panels.

The jig raises the pressure point on the panel, holding it tightly against the

fence, and protects my fingers from the

blade. I used biscuits to join therunners to the jig, but you also could

dado the jig and glue the runners into place. (Note that the runners should betaller than the blade height.)

— Dan Batliner, Lincoln, Calif.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Radius Sanding Jig

Use it with your sander to get the perfect results you want in seconds.

Sanding an even radius on workpieces can be tricky,

especially if you're doing it freehand. But you can take theguesswork out of this process in a hurry with this quick-fix

jig. To use the jig, you'll need an oscillating spindle sander or a drum sander attached to a drill press.

On the edge of a piece of 3/4" plywood, cut out a half circlethat will accommodate your largest sanding drum, as shown,

above left . From the edge of this half circle, measure to a

point 1/8" short of the radius to be sanded, and bore a 3/4"hole where shown. Now, glue a 3/4" dowel in the hole. The

accuracy of the jig depends on the dowel standing 90-degrees

to the plywood, so leave the dowel long enough to check itwith a square. After the glue dries, you can cut the dowel to a shorter length.

Next, mark the radius on the workpiece, and cut the curve just outside the line. Bore a 3/4" holeat the center point of the radius and slip the workpiece over the dowel. Adjust the plywood so the

sanding drum just touches the long edge of the workpiece. When the jig is positioned correctly,

clamp it to the sanding table, turn the sander on, and rotate the workpiece into the drum to sand a

perfect radius.

If you don't want to bore a hole completely through your workpiece, you can bore the hole

halfway through the stock, and cut the dowel just short of this depth. For smaller workpieces,

you'll want to use a dowel with a smaller diameter.

Or, for a workpiece where you don't want any holes visible, delete the hole in both the workpiece

and the jig top, and rotate the workpiece on a nail head protruding from the jig table.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Tablesaw Miter Jig

Are you ready for on-the-money miters? Here's the solution.

Setting up perfect miter cuts can be time-consuming. With a miter sled, you do it only once,

when building the sled.

Cut the pieces for the miter sled to the dimensions shown in Drawing 1. After attaching the

miter-slot guides (adjust width for your saw table), put the jig on the tablesaw and cut a kerf 7

1/2" into the base. Then follow the steps in Drawing 2, and use double-faced tape to temporarilyattach the fences.

Test your setup by miter-cutting four pieces to identical length and dry-fitting them together as a

frame. Check for a tight joint at all four corners. If needed, adjust the fences. Then screw themdown in their final positions.

-- WOOD® magazine shop

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Spline-cutting Fence for your Router Table

Cutting a spline slot is simple

with this setup. Start at the

right hand stopblock, lower the workpiece onto the support

guide, and slide it to the left

stopblock.

Here's a handy method for beefing up long, mitered joints

in jewelry boxes and the like.You can make slots for hidden

splines with a straight bit, two

stopblocks, and a simple support

block.

Set your 1/8" straight bit to project 1/4" above the router

table. Clamp an auxiliary fence

to your router table fence, so thatyour workpiece won't slide into

the bit-clearance notch. Set this

fence the same distance from the bit's center as the thickness of your stock, or slightly farther. In

the drawing below, we're cutting spline slots in 1/2"-thick pieces.

Miter-cut your box sides to length. Take the two ends of the box, or the front and the back, placethem face-to-face, align the edges, and join them with cloth-backed, double-faced tape.

Bevel-rip a scrap piece at 45° to make a support board. Hold the taped-together assembly in the

corner formed by the router table and fence, and use it to place the support board parallel to thefence. Clamp both ends of the support board to the router table.

Now, mark the ends of the planned slot on the workpiece. Use those marks, matched with the

cutting edges of the bit, to set stopblocks on the fence to the left and right of the bit.

Turn on the router, hold the workpiece firmly against the fence, and lower it onto the spinning

bit, as shown in the photo above. Keep the right side of the workpiece against the right-handstopblock. Carefully slide the workpiece across the table to the left-hand stopblock, and raise itstraight up the fence.

After cutting eight slots for a rectangular box, cut matching splines. Hardboard and plywoodwork great for this, or you can cut splines from the same wood used for the box. In that case, the

grain of the splines should run in the same direction as the sides, to avoid problems with the

wood splitting along grain lines.

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Jig makes it safe to rout small pieces

My table-mounted router seemed ideal for shaping

3/4" stock into knobs for

a box I was building, butthe small blanks--only 1

1/2" square--wouldmake the job hazardous

to my hands. So I built

the jig, shown at right , to

hold onto the blanks.

I cut scraps of Baltic

birch plywood to thedimensions shown for

the jig's base and slidingL-shape guide. To makethe jig adjustable, I cut

two slots in the guide

and attached it to the

base with knobs screwed into threaded inserts in the base. A toggle clamp holds the work piecefirmly against the base and the guide. I routed the front edge of the base, as shown, to clear the

bit; I then set up the appropriate bit and a zero-clearance fence on the router table to machine the

knobs.

Bob Lasley, Broken Arrow, Ok

7/27/2019 25 Jigs in 45 Pages


Date post:	14-Apr-2018
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