BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 1APRIL 2015
A BEGINNERSGUIDE TO:
WRITTEN BY RACHEL KULCHIN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TABA PHOTOGRAPHY
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 2
PATAGONIA
WHEN TO VISITTIME OF YEAR WILL GREATLY
IMPACT YOUR TRIP. 6
MAP OF PATAGONIAWHERE IS PATAGONIA? 5
WHAT TO PACKGEAR CORNER7
USHUAIA - TIERRA DEL FUEGOSOUTHERNMOST CITY IN THE WORLD10ISLA DE MARTILLOPEGUINS ABOUND13
ISLA DE MARTILLO13HIDDEN DOWN AT THE BOTTOM OF OUR
PLANET IS A LITTLE BARREN ISLAND.
WRITTEN BY RACHEL KULCHIN
PHOTOGRAPHY BY TABA PHOTOGRAPHY
TORRES DEL PAINEI COULD WAX POETIC ABOUT THIS PLACE ALL
DAY AND NOT EVEN TOUCH THE SURFACE OF THE
OVERWHELMING BEAUTY TO BE FOUND HERE.18
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 3PUERTO NATALES
PORTAL CITY TO TORRES DEL PAINE16NAVIMAG
TRAVELING NORTH?17TORRES DEL PAINE
MIDDLE EARTH ON OUR PLANET18
CHILOÉMYSTERIOUS ISLAND HIDDEN IN THE MISTS23
MAP OF THE “Q”INTO THE HEART OF TORRES DEL PAINE19CHILOÉ
THE MOMENT YOU STEP OFF THE BOAT YOU
CAN FEEL IT. THIS ISLAND IS SINGULAR,
STEEPED IN AN ANCIENT TRADITION.23
GEAR CORNERYOU MUST PREPARE. DO NOT FORGET TO PACK THESE ITEMS. 7
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 4
GLACIER GREY, TORRES DEL PAINE
Weather changes on a dime – soaring past on the winds that will knock you on your britches. The people have a fierce survival glint in their eyes and are warmly welcoming. Wildlife is undaunted by your presence and the landscape beckons to be explored.
Patagonia is calling to you.
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 5
Puerto Natales
Ushuaia Isla de Martillo
Torres del Paine
Castro
ARGENTINACHILE
Corcovado Gulf
Gulf of Penas
Grande Bay
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn
Chiloé
MAP OF PATAGONIA
When people speak about the region of Patagonia, they are refering to the southernmost area of Chile and Argentina. The region’s borders are unclear, but as broadly defined, the borders are: the Pacific Ocean to the west, the At-
lantic Ocean to the East, Cape Horn to the south, and to the north, the Colorado River in Argentina, and Reloncaví Estuary in Chile.
WHERE IS PATAGONIA?
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 6
The summer season. The warmest months. It is important to keep in mind that because of the warmth, everyone else is planning on traveling at that time as well. This means all the prices are higher and the demand for tickets is high. Know that going into it, and plan accordingly.
WHEN TO VISIT
NOVEMBER - MARCHKNOWING THIS, I ALWAYS TRY TO EITHER
PLAN ON THE EARLY SIDE OF THAT
SEASON, OR THE LATER SIDE. SURE, IT
IS NOT AS WARM OUTSIDE, AND THE
WEATHER MIGHT BE A LITTLE MORE
EXTREME, BUT THERE WILL BE FEWER
PEOPLE. TO ME, IT IS WORTH IT.
ISLAND OF CHILOÉ
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 7
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THERMALS
This is your base layer. Pulls away
moisture from your skin, helping you stay warm. Try to find a top with a
zipper and hood if possible.
WOOL SOCKS
Little is worse than hiking in wet socks, unless you count trying to
sleep in wet socks. Have muliple pairs so you can have
a night pair and a day pair.
DOWN JACKET
Your insulation layer.
Keeps you super warm. Offers best warmth to weight
ratio.
HIKING BOOTS
Waterproof is key! Take your time
when buying them to make sure they fit properly. Jump up and down, run around, and walk
as many stairs as you can find
before purchasing.
BACKPACKING PACK
There are many elements that go into buying the
prefect backpack for you. Spend
time with someone to have yourself fitted. Learn how
to pack it properly!
HARD SHELL
Look for a jacket that offers both breathability and water resistance.
This is your windproof layer, and will be key
in the windy conditions of
Patagonia.
CLICK ON THE IMAGETO BE SENT TO THATCOMPANY’S WEBSITE!
WHERE TO BUY
THE SECRET KEY IS LAYERS. FOR A GREAT ONLINE RESOURCE, CHECK
OUT: OUTDOOR GEAR LAB: INTRO TO LAYERED CLOTHING SYSTEMS!
PATAGONIACLOTHINGCOMPANY
PATAGONIACLOTHINGCOMPANY
PATAGONIACLOTHINGCOMPANY
AHNU FOOTWARE OSPREY SMART WOOL
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 8
You are looking for something
adventurous – you want wild,
strange, rugged, and
extremely beautiful -
Patagonia is your perfect
fix for wanderlust.
COWBOY ROASTING A LAMB, TORRES DEL PAINE
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 9
Prepare to surrender
completely to L O N G
transit times. Remember
back when you thought six hours was a
long time to sit in the car?
It is not uncommon for
bus trips to take over 14 hours, but in
terms of being stuck on the
bus, there is no prettier view to
watch pass by.
BUS RIDE TO PUERTO NATALAS
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Ushuaia Tierra del Fuego
SOUTHERNMOST CITY IN THE WORLD
MARTIAL GLACIER,USHUAIA
Puerto Natales
Ushuaia Isla de Martillo
Torres del Paine
Castro
ARGENTINACHILE
Corcovado Gulf
Gulf of Penas
Grande Bay
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn
Chiloé
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 11
Located on the sou-thwest shore of the Beagle Channel,
Ushuaia claims the title of the southernmost city in the world. There is a little fuzziness around this claim since the settlement of Puerto Williams is farther south. But it is much smaller than the bustling city of Ushuaia.
As one of the major ports for expeditions heading to Antarctica, Ushuaia is filled with extremely adventurous travelers - everyone hunkering down out of the wind at any opportunity in small cafes and bars. Pull up a stool and get ready to hear some incredible tales.
If you love trains, take the heritage End of the World train. Originally purposed as a freight line to service the prison of Ushuaia, it now has been revived and refurbished with modern amenities and sails along some of our planet’s most breathtaking landscapes. This train is a great way to view the Tierra del Fuego National Park without having to face the wind.
SHIP WRECK,USHUAIA
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 12
GLACIER MARTIAL,USHUAIA
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ISLA DE
MARTILLO
ESTANCIA HARBERTON
&
SILHOUETTE OF A HORSE, ESTANCIA HARBERTON
Puerto Natales
Ushuaia Isla de Martillo
Torres del Paine
Castro
ARGENTINACHILE
Corcovado Gulf
Gulf of Penas
Grande Bay
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn
Chiloé
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 14
“Let us be honest, penguins don’t smell like roses, so prepare yourself for the noise and the smell, but it is well worth it to be able to watch these amazing creatures in their natural environment. ”
Hidden down at the bottom of our planet is this little island that has been shaped by the ever-present water and wind into an almost barren landscape. Far from devoid of life, this island is a sanctuary for 3,000 pairs of Magellanic penguins as well as a few Gentoo penguins. Let us be honest, penguins don’t smell like roses, so prepare yourself for the noise and the smell, but it is well worth it to be able to watch these amazing creatures in their natural environment.
Not only that, but you access the island by boat from Estancia Harberton. It is the
oldest estancia (ranch) in Argentina’s Tierra del Fuego, operating since 1886. Keep an eye out for the trees, which grow horizontally; they are unable to grow vertically due to the ever-present wind. It is beautiful and feels like you have
stepped back in time. Estancia Harberton also hosts the Acatushun Museum, which is a museum and working laboratory for
the study of marine mammals, hosting the skeletons of over 2700 marine mammals and 2300 birds. As you walk into the museum, be careful not to trip over the whale and dolphin skeletons in the front yard!
WINDBLOWN TREES,ESTANCIA HARBERTON
MAGELLANIC PEGUINSISLA DE MARTILLO
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 15
Also, a little side note about the penguins – while it is amazing to see these creatures at the bottom of the world, do not become distressed if you miss them here, as their habitat runs up the entire Chilean Coast (even to the equator). If you are heading north from here, you will have more chances to encounter these little guys. Don’t panic.
MAGELLANIC PEGUINS - ISLA DE MARTILLO
THE TAIL OF A WHALE SKELETON - ACATUSHUN MUSEAUM
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Puerto Natales is the portal city to Torres del Paine - a very cute coastal town where you board Navimag, if you are taking that route.
WHERE TO STAY: Erratic Rock
While you are not in the park, stay at the Erratic Rock Hostel www.erraticrock.com. $14 a night gets you a bed, shower, a good breakfast, and real coffee. Not only that, but the staff is amazing and has a wealth of knowledge. I recommend picking their brains, and if you forgot anything you need for your backpacking trip in Torres del Paine, they also run a little gear rental.
WHERE TO EAT: Afrigonia
Tired of rehydrated meals out of your backpack? Treat yourself to a true surprise. Take a step out of the ever-present wind and into the warmth of this wonderful restaurant. The food is an outstanding example of an original fusion blend, created by a wonderful, cheery, Zambian/Chilean couple. Don’t miss! EBERHARD 343, PUERTO NATALES,
CHILE
MANUEL BAQUEDANO 719,
PUERTO NATALES, MAGALLANES,
CHILE
PUERTO NATALES
Puerto Natales
Ushuaia Isla de Martillo
Torres del Paine
Castro
ARGENTINACHILE
Corcovado Gulf
Gulf of Penas
Grande Bay
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn
Chiloé
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 17
NAVIMAGIt is a huge cargo ship transformed to a [mostly] human passenger oriented ferry, which takes four days and three nights to navigate through the fiords of the Chilean coastline.
This is a truly hit or miss opportunity. It could be amazing – a chance to glimpse one of the truly remote landscapes of our planet: floating across the rough water, watching waterfalls, rugged landscape, and swirling mists passing by as if in a dream. It could also be a version of the seven levels of Dante’s Inferno. Your bunkmate could be puking the whole time in the bed below you. Nasty hurricane-speed winds and sleet might box you inside a turbulent metal bucking bronco with the smell and noise of hundreds of anxious cattle wafting up from below.
If you don’t go – you will never know what you could have missed – miserable or incredible. No matter what, you will walk away with a memorable story for the grandkids.
Transport: Heading North up the coast? Think about Navimag.
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 18
TORRES DEL PAINEI could wax poetic about this place all day and not even touch the surface of the overwhelming beauty to be found here. Let’s just say it is my version of Middle Earth.
Plan to spend as much time as you possibly can here.
A FULL BACKPACK - TORRES DEL PAINE
Puerto Natales
Ushuaia Isla de Martillo
Torres del Paine
Castro
ARGENTINACHILE
Corcovado Gulf
Gulf of Penas
Grande Bay
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn
Chiloé
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 19
MAP OF THE “Q” TORRES DEL PAINE
START
What do I mean when I say hike
the “Q”? I am referring to
hiking the entire loop - circumnavigating the
mountains. If you are short on time,
for sure, you could just hike the “W”
(which refers to just hiking the front
side), however, I feel like the most
beautiful parts of the park are on the
backside. So plan the extra time!
THE “Q” VERSUS THE “W”:
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 20
INTO THE PARK
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Get ready to lace up your hiking boots and fill your pack - take that extra step. Be a badass. Do not just settle for the “W” do the whole circuit
do the “Q”
It is absolutely worth it.
GLACIER GREY - TORRES DEL PAINE
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 22
Do not rush, plan for at least a week (preferably between 7-15 days). Check out: back-packer.org for a good resource on how to prepare for this hike.
INSIDERS TIP: Take an extra day and plan for
a day hike at Lago Dickson. Ask
someone at the camp there how
to meet up with the boatman to
shuttle you across the river, so
you can hike up to Glacier
Dickson. Way off the beaten
path with spectacular views!
TORRES DEL PAINE
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 23
CHILOÉMYSTERIOUS ISLAND HIDDEN IN THE MISTS
based on a mythology of witchcraft, ghost ships, and forest gnomes. The people are fiercely independent and seafarers to their core. Make sure you check out the iconic wooden churches (Unesco World Heritage Site) and the colorful wooden houses built on stilts over the ocean.
The moment you step off the boat you can feel it. This island is singular, steeped in an ancient tradition. With the mist swirling around you, it evokes a feeling that this place is still very wild. The landscape is wet and lush, with dense forests and incredible rolling green hills. The spiritual culture here is
ALONG THE SHORES OF RILAN
Puerto Natales
Ushuaia Isla de Martillo
Torres del Paine
Castro
ARGENTINACHILE
Corcovado Gulf
Gulf of Penas
Grande Bay
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn
Chiloé
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 24
PREPARING FOR THE FEAST, RILAN
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 25
WHERE TO STAY: 13 Lunas Hostel
Check out 13 Lunas Hostel in Ancud. Staff is super-duper helpful and can give advice on arranging all of your to-do list. Not only that, it is a large, bright green, almost Victorian looking home – bright yellow trim and all, that features a large beautiful kitchen open to use. Especially while traveling for long stretches at a time, I often miss the opportunity to play in the kitchen, and I felt completely at home here.
WHERE TO EAT: Restaurante Quetalmahue
Absolutely check out Restaurante Quetalmahue. This restaurant in the small village of Quetalmahue is about 12 kilometers away from Ancud and features curanto. Still made in the traditional way, mussels, clams, crabs, oysters, pork sausages, smoked pork, chicken, and potatoes are buried underground over hot coals wrapped in wet leaves and grass and left to steam. The result is in-credible! This is Chile’s most traditional food and this method of cooking dates back at least 7,000 years. Call ahead, make sure they are serving curanto, and figure out a way to get out there.
LOS CARRERA 855, ANCUD,
LOS LAGOS, CHILE
NO ADDRESS, BUT YOU CANNOT MISS IT
VILLAGE QUETALMAHUE
PH: 87919410 - 90333930
CHILOÉ
BEGINNERS GUIDE TO PATAGONIA 26
MORE ABOUT THE PHOTOGRAPHERS:MORE ABOUT THE AUTHOR:
This guide does not cover even a small percentage of all the amazing adventures to be had in Patagonia.
However, it does share some special places that I think should be on your list when heading to the area.
TABA Photography is dedicated to exploring the world in pursuit of the ultimate image - focusing on adventure, cultural and fine art photography from across our globe. Co-founders Steven Herbert and Rachel Kulchin share a deep passion for adventure, food, travel and photography. We hope you enjoy the adventure with us. To see more of their work, check out their website:
www.tabaphotography.com
Pack your bags, buy your tickets, and get ready to have an amazing ADVENTURE.
Rachel Cox Kulchin has a zeal for travel that has taken her around the world to photograph, enjoy great food, and adventure. In the small darkroom hidden in the boys bathroom at her high school, Rachel developed a boundless love for photography. She earned a degree from the University of California Santa Cruz in Environmental Sciences focusing on Agroecology and Ethnobotany. To the best of her ability, she is living her “Pura Vida”.