A. Physical oceanography

587

Oceanographic Literature Review

(1980)27(9)

The citations are those received in the editorial office during the period 1--30 June 1980. Most are accompanied by a short annotation or abstract and, when obtainable, by the first author's address. The citations are classified under six main headings (see the table of contents) and 112 sub-headings. Subject and author indexes are published for the first three quarters of the year with an annual cumulation. See the preface for ad- ditional explanatory material.

A. PHYSICAL OCEANOGRAPHY

1. Apparatus and methods

80:4034 Basharinov, A. E. and A. M. Shutko, 1978/80.

Research into the measurement of sea state, sea temperature and salinity by means of microwave radiometry . Boundary-layer Met., 18(1): 55-64.

In-situ and remote monitoring of sea surface radiation characteristics carried out at a coastal location in the USSR indicates that spectral microwave radiometry provides an effective method for remote sensing of sea state and some properties (temperature, salinity) of the sea surface. Institute of Radio Engineering and Electronics, Academy of Sciences of USSR, U.S.S.R. (bwt)

80:4035 Deschamps, P. Y. and T. Phulpin, 1978/80. At-

mospheric correction of infrared measurements of sea surface temperature using

channels at 3.7, 11 and 12 ~m. Boundary- layerMet., 18(2): 131-143.

A study of the influence of atmospheric absorption and emission on the radiometric determination of surface temperature shows that the error is least for the channel centered at 3.7 #m. A combination of channels centered at 3.7 and 12 ~m may be the best choice for certain instrumental noise levels. These two channels and one centered at 11 #m may be used on TIROS-N and subsequent NOAA satellites in the near future. Laboratoire d'Optique Atmospherique, ERA 466, Universite de Lille I, B.P. 36, 59650 Villeneuve d'Ascq, France. (drh)

80:4036 Kopelevich, O. V. and E. M. Mezhericher, 1980.

On the evaluation of foam coverage of the sea surface from spectral values of visible radiance. (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 50-56.

588 A. Physical Oceanography OLR(1980)27(9)

The possibility of evaluating the sea surface foam, based on the spectral values of nadir and zenith radiances, is considered as an aspect of the problem of a remote determination of chlorophyll concentration in the sea surface layer. Possible errors are discussed.

80:4037 Ottonello, P. and L. Papa, 1980. All solid-state

data logger for recording slow sea oscillations. J. Phys., scient. [nstrums, E, 13(3): 287-288.

Magnetic cassettes, commonly used for data storage, are replaced by EPROM's (erasable programmable read only memory) which store sequentially data from pressure sensors; an all-in- one chip microprocessor controls the data acquisi- tion and recording system. The instrument is especially useful where slowly changing variables must be recorded for short-term operations. Istituto Scienze Fisiche, Universita di Genova, viale Benedetto XV, 5, 16132 Genova, Italy. (smf)

80:4038 Terziyev, F. S., G. V. Girdyuk, V. V. Vinogradov

and G. M. Tauber, 1979. The present-day state of sea-surface temperature investigations. (In Russian; English abstract.) Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1979(11): 70-77.

Various methods for measurement of sea-surface and surface layer temperatures by contact and non-contact methods aboard ships, aircraft and satellites are discussed. Data are given on the in- terrelation between surface and surface layer temperatures of seas and oceans.

2. Surveys (data reports, area studies)

80:4039 Conseil International pour l'Exploration de la Mer,

Service Hydrographique, 1979. Monthly means of surface temperature and salinity for areas of the North Sea and the north- eastern North Atlantic in 1973.28 pp.

80:4040 Edwards, R. J., 1979. Tasman and Coral Sea ten

year mean temperature and salinity fields, 1967-1976. (Data report.) Commonw. scient. ind. Res. Orgn, Div. Fish. Oceanogr., Rept, Sydney, 88: 40 pp. Marine Laboratory, Cronulla, Sydney.

80:4041 Germany, Federal Republic of, Deutsches Hydro-

graphisches Institut, 1978/79. Beobachtungen auf den deutschen Feuerschiffen der Nord- und Ostsee im Jahre 1978 sowie Monatsmittel- werte von Temperatur und Salzgehalt des Jahres 1978. [German lightship observations of monthly temperature and salinity averages in the North and Baltic seas for 1978.] (Data report.) Meeresk. Beob. Ergebn,, Dt. Hydrogr. Inst., 48:140 pp.

80:4042 Hamilton, A. D. and R. E. Wilson, 1980. Nontidal

circulation and mixing processes in the lower Potomac Estuary. Estuaries, 3(1): 11- 19.

Current meter and hydrographic data were analyzed to relate variations in shear effect and in estimates of vertical eddy viscosity and eddy diffusivity to variations in bulk Richardson number. Marine Sciences Research Center, State Universi- ty of New York, Stony Brook, N.Y. 11794, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4043 Siwecki, Ryszard and Slawomir Swerpel, 1979.

Oceanographic investigations in Hornsund Fjord [Spitzbergen] in 1974-1975. (In Polish; English abstract.) Zesz. nauk Wydz. Biol. Nauk Ziemi, Oceanogr., 6: 45-58.

80:4044 Smith, N. P., 1980. Temporal and spatial

variability in longshore motion along the Texas gulf coast. J. geophys. Res., 85(C3): 1531-1536. Harbor Branch Foundation, Inc., Fort Pierce, Fla. 33450, U.S.A.

80:4045 Tolomio, Claudio, Attilio Solazzi, Paolo Faverno

and Mara Marzocchi, 1976. Osservazioni fisico-chimiche nella Laguna di Caorle (Venezia). [Physico-chemical observations on Caorle Lagoon, Venice.] Boll. Pesca Piscic. Idrobiol., (n.s.)31(1/2): 329-342.

A one-year study of the main ecological factors (transparency, pH, temperature, nutrients) affecting phytoplankton revealed substantial spatio- temporal variability in this northwestern Adriatic lagoon. Istituto di Botanica e Fisiologia Vegetale, Universita di Padova, Padova, Italy. (izs)

0LR(1980) 27(9) A. Physical Oceanography 589

4. Distribution of common oceanic (hydrographic) properties (see Chem- ical Oceanography for basic chemical studies

of salinity, chlorinity, etc.}

80:4046 Dugan, J. P., 1980. Character is t ics of surface

t e m p e r a t u r e s t r u c t u r e and s u b s u r f a c e m e s o s c a l e features . Remote Sens. Environ., 9(2): 109-113.

Near-surface water temperature was not a good indicator of spatial variability in the thermocline structure of prominent mesoscale features in one mid-North Atlantic survey of large-amplitude cyclonic eddies. Ocean Sciences Division, Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, D.C. 20375, U.S.A. (mjj)

80:4047 Middleton, J. H. and T. D. Foster, 1980. Fine

structure m e a s u r e m e n t s in a temperature- compensated halocl ine. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1107-1122.

As part of the International Weddell Sea Oceanographic Expedition (1976), 25 CTD casts were made in the upper 600 m remote from the continental shelf to escape frontal processes. Temperature and salinity variations appear primarily due to isopycnal mixing below ~ 450 m and to internal waves above 300 m with double diffusive contributions in regions of steepest gradients. Estimates of upward heat and salt fluxes are 7.65 x 10 -5 cal cm 2 s-1 and 3.78 x 10-9 gcm-2 s 1, respectively. Some evidence sup- porting upwelling toward the center of the Weddell Gyre is presented. Scripps Inst i tut ion of Oceanography, La Jolla, Calif. 92093, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4048 Stepanov, V. N., 1980. Water temperature field

in the World Ocean. (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 28-33.

Averaging of temperature measurements at all available oceanographic stations to construct temperature fields for the most representative depths has extended ideas on the conditions of temperature field formation and position in the World Ocean water column.

5. Physical processes (diffusion, turbulence, energy exchange, dynamic heights, etc.)

80:4049 Christodoulou, G. C. and J. J. Connor, 1980. Dis-

persion in two- layer stratif ied water bodies.

J. Hydraul. Div., Am. Soc. civ. Engrs, 106(HY4): 557-573.

A finite element model is developed for the numerical prediction of the dispersion process in a strongly stratified water body idealized as a two- layer system. The physical processes of mixing through the density interface and horizontal dispersion are discussed. Numerical integration in time is based on an implicit iterative trapezoidal scheme. Results for one-dimensional counterflow conditions are verified with analytical solutions. Applied Hydraulics Laboratory, National Technical University of Athens, Athens, Greece.

80:4050 Csanady, G. T. and P. T. Shaw, 1980. The evolu-

t ion of a turbulent E k m a n layer. J. geophys. Res., 85(C3): 1537-1547.

A model with a wall layer-outer layer combination is developed to describe the evolution of near- surface shear flow resulting from suddenly applied wind stress. Solutions are generally similar to those obtained with the classical Rossby and Montgomery (1935) model. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, U.S.A. (mcs)

80:4051 Delnore, V. E., 1980. Numer ica l s imulat ion of

thermohal ine convect ion in the upper ocean. J. Fluid Mech., 96(4); 803-826.

Only when double-diffusive convection is included in this 'pseudo-two-dimensional' model is the in- tradiurnal heating cycle of the tropical oceanic mixed layer reasonably predicted. More accurate calculations of surface salinity and improved measurements of precipitation and horizontal currents at various depths would enhance model results. Kentron International, Inc., Hampton Technical Center, Hampton, Va. 23666, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4052 Katsaros, K. B., 1978/80. The aqueous thermal

boundary layer. Boundary-layer Met., 18(1): 107-127.

Renewed interest in the surface microlayer (only a few mm thick) has been stimulated by interest in SST anomalies as predictors of large-scale changes in weather patterns, and by remote sensing techniques with their promise for global-scale measurements of SST. Typically this layer is up to 1 C ° colder than underlying water; occasionally it can be warmer. Knowledge acquired so far, measurement techniques, and the complex physical phenomena and variabilities which affect this layer and its heat balance are reviewed. Includes ca. 100 references. Department of Atmospheric

590 A. Physical Oceanography 0LR(1980)27(9)

Sciences, University of Washington, Seattle, Wash., U.S.A. (fcs)

6. Convergences, divergences and upwelling

80:4053 Knoll, Michaela, 1979. Zur Warmebilanz der

ozeanischen Deckschicht im GATE Gebiet. [On the heat budget of the upper ocean in the GATE area.] Ber. Inst. Meeresk. Christian- Albrechts-Univ., 68:100 pp.

When the ocean-atmosphere local net heat exchange is compared with the upper ocean temporal change of heat content, it is found that large- scale atmospheric processes have more important influences on the heat budget than brief, local transfer events. A statistical model is described for predicting heat content fluctuations from the large-scale distribution of incident radiation. Institut fur Meereskunde, Abt. Meeresphysik, Dusternbrooker Weg 20, 2300 Kiel, F.R.G. (izs)

80:4056 Johnson, D. R., Thomas Fonseca and Helmuth

Sievers, 1980. Upwelling in the Humboldt Coastal Current near Valparaiso, Chile. J. mar. Res., 38(1): 1-16.

Intensified upwelling identified as a tongue of cool water (primarily Gunther Undercurrent Water) extending seaward and equatorward occurs around a seaward projecting point of land (Punta Curau- milla); the intensification appears due to accelera- tion of relative vorticity past the point. Cross-shelf circulation resembles the double-cell model of Mooers, Collins and Smith (1976). Pulsations in upwelling-favorable winds may lead to patchiness of upwelled water, and increased ecosystem stability. University of Miami, Miami, Fla. 33149, U.S.A. ( mjj )

80:4054 Leyendekkers, J. V., 1980. Prediction of the heat

capacities of seawater and other multi- component solutions from the Tammann- Tait-Gibson model. Mar. Chem., 9(1): 25-35.

Results of calculating heat capacity of solutions (concentration <45%0, 0°-30°C; and concentration up to 160%0 at 20°C) suggest that heat capacity can successfully be predicted by the TTG model to within 0.1% at an ionic strength of up to 3 M. School of Biological Sciences, Building A12, The University of Sydney, Sydney, N.S.W. 2006, Australia. (slr)

80:4055 Sarmiento, J. L. and C. G. H. Rooth, 1980. A com-

parison of vertical and isopycnal mixing models in the deep sea based on radon 222 measurements. J. geophys. Res., 85(C3): 1515-1518.

In cases of anisotropic mixing, flux estimates for one tracer cannot readily be used to predict the transport of other tracers. Whereas in a one- dimensional mixing model 'heat and buoyancy have the same vertical eddy diffusivity as the tracer so that their vertical fluxes are uniquely related,' in a two-dimensional model the 'relation between vertical buoyancy and heat fluxes and the tracer flux depends on the relative magnitude of the isopycnal and cross-isopycnal diffusivities.' Estimates of buoyancy fluxes and bottom friction velocities determined for each model are given for a bottom radon 222 profile. Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Laboratory, Princeton University, Princeton, N.J. 08540, U.S.A. (mjj)

7. Circulation and circulation models

80:4057 Chu, Wen-Sen and W. W-G. Yeh, 1980. Two-

dimensional tidally averaged estuarine model. J. Hydraul. Div., Am. Soc. civ. Engrs, 106(HY4): 501-518.

A vertically averaged two-dimensional model describes estuarine hydrodynamics and salinity in the dynamic steady-state condition. The effect of the density gradient is included. This model eliminates those problems associated with perfor- ming long-term integration over time. Department of Environmental Resources Engineering, Hum- boldt State University, Arcata, Calif., U.S.A. (mcs)

80:4058 Cresswell, G. R. and M. A. Greig, 1979. Satellite-

traced buoy data report IV. Southwest Pacific Ocean January-June 1978. (Data report.) Commonw. scient, ind. Res. Orgn, Div. Fish. Oceanogr., Rept, Sydney, 104:38 pp. CSIRO Division of Fisheries and Oceanography, P.O. Box 21, Cronulla, NSW 2230, Australia.

80:4059 Csanady, G. T., 1980. Longshore pressure gradi-

ents caused by offshore wind. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1076-1084.

OLR(1980)27(9) A. Physical Oceanography 591

A strong, isolated offshore wind stress inpulse occurred during current measurements along a 12 km transect off the straight, uncomplicated south shore of Long Island. Considerable longshore nontidal flow was generated well below any surface Ekman drift. Longshore pressure gradients were involved in the establishment and maintenance of the flow. Predictions based on a sloping plane beach model acted upon by sinusoidal cross-shore winds roughly agreed with observations. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, U.S.A. (mjj)

80:4060 Ehlin, U. and C. Ambjorn, 1975/77. Water trans-

port through the Aland Sea. Ambio spec. Rept, 5: 117-125.

Southerly currents predominate in surface waters, especially on the western side. In deeper waters, northerly currents dominate on the western side but are slightly less frequent than southerly currents on the eastern side. Water transport to and from the Gulf of Bothnia ranges up to 10 km~/day in the summer and up to 40 km3/day in late autumn. Swedish Meteorological and Hydrological Institute, Norrkoping, Sweden. (mjj)

80:4061 Gatto, L. W., 1978/80. Analysis of circulation

patterns in Grays Harbor, Washington, using remote sensing techniques. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 289-324.

In a study to determine the application of data from state-of-the-art remote sensing instruments for analyzing surface circulation patterns, data from Landsat imagery, NASA aircraft color and color IR photographs, thermal IR, passive microwave imagery and low altitude aerial photographs of uranine dye drogues were compared with data from ground truth surveys and hydraulic models. Most useful were the low altitude dye photographs and Rs-14 and M2S thermal imagery; PMIS and Landsat imagery were not useful due to correlation and photo-interpretation difficulties. It was concluded that remote sensing techniques can provide a regional perspective not obtainable with surface surveys alone, and such techniques should be used to augment conventional techniques used in estuarine circulation studies. Earth Sciences Branch, U.S. Army Cold Regions Research and Engineering Laboratory, Hanover, N.H., U.S.A. (smf)

80:4062 James, I. N., 1980. The forces due to geostrophic

flow over shallow topography. Geophys. astrophys. Fluid Dynam., 14(3): 225-250.

A numerical model of barotropic flow over an isolated hill in a rapidly rotating system is considered. Local Ekman pumping is the sole energy dissipation mechanism provided. The model is in good qualitative and quantitative agreement with other models and theories. Analysis of the force exerted on the hill shows that, for a steady state, drag (parallel to the flow) is small compared to lift (right angles to the flow); but that, in early transient stages, the drag force may be quite large, and that nonlinear effects can greatly prolong the period of transient behavior. However, drag values required by Hide (1969, 1977) to effect angular momentum transfer between core and mantle appear geophysically unrealistic. Department of Meteorology, University of Reading, White- knights, Reading RG6 2AU, U.K. (fcs)

80:4063 Kaleis, M. V., 1975/77. The peculiarities of Kat-

tegat water advection in the deep layer of the Baltic Sea. Ambio spec. Rept, 5: 201-204.

Every year cyclic changes of temperature, salinity, and oxygen content, caused by the influx of Kattegat waters into the Baltic Sea through the Danish Straits, are observed. 'Peculiarities of sea bottom relief, different water densities of separate influxes and relatively slow intermixing of deep waters cause compound stratification of the deep sea layer.' Baltic Fishery Research Institute, Riga, U.S.S.R. (mjj)

80:4064 Kullas, T. and R. Tamsalu, 1975/77. A baroclinic

model of the physical fields of the Baltic Sea. Ambio spec. Rept, 5: 197-200.

To describe the hydrodynamic regime and the distribution of temperature, salinity and density of seawater, the linearized equations of motion without regard to horizontal exchange, the continuity equation, the equations of the diffusion of temperature and salinity and the non-linear equation of state are used. The initial system of equations is integrated numerically using the method of finite differences. Results of a numerical experiment on seasonal changes of Baltic hydrologic characteristics are given. Academy of Sciences of the Estonian SSR, Institute of Thermo- physics and Electrophysics, Tallinn, U.S.S.R.

80:4065 Mikulski, Z., 1975/77. Pilot Study Year on the

water balance of the Baltic Sea (1975-1976). Ambio spec. Rept, 5: 127-129.

During the research program, Pilot Study Year, all the Baltic countries were to periodically measure


selected hydrological and meteorological parameters (river discharge, precipitation, evaporation, sea level changes, etc.); each country was to compile, summarize, and distribute the data for one of the individual balance elements. An allied program, Belt Project, initiated by Den- mark, is evaluating the marine environment of the Belt Sea, including water exchange between the Baltic and the North Sea. Data from both programs are needed for rational implementation of Helsinki Convention provisions. University of Warsaw, Institute of Geography, Warsaw, Poland. (m j j)

80:4066 Schmitz, W. J. Jr., 1980. Weakly depth-de-

pendent segments of the North Atlantic circulation. J. mar. Res., 38(1): 111-133.

Time averaged currents from long-term moored current meters anchored along 55°W show a predominantly westward flow near 36°N and an eastward flow near 37.5°N; both flows are weakly depth-dependent. The flow pattern may indicate a method by which transport is added (removed) f¥om the Gulf Stream. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, U.S.A. (mcs)

80:4067 Volosov, V. M. and M. A. Zhdanov, 1980. Linear

t h e o r y of l a r g e - s c a l e f l o w over an anisotropic bottom relief for the two-layer model of the ocean. (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 5-12.

The equations describing such flows are derived in linear approximation. In the case of a wave motion over a sinusoidal bottom the energy comparison for the homogeneous and the nonhomogeneous models is presented. Dispersion relations are analyzed and some general cases are discussed.

80:4068 Welander, Pierre, 1980. An ideal-fluid ther-

mocline model with a western boundary current . Rept geophys. Inst. Div. phys. Oceanogr. Univ. Bergen, 54:19 pp.

An attempt is made to extend the simplest known ideal fluid similarity type solution by adding a three-dimensional inertial current. It is shown that 'no similarity solution exists for such a boundary current,' unless 'the ocean is unstably stratified, but an approximate analytic solution of Oseen- type exists. This solution, which can be considered as the zero:th order approximation in a solution sequence obtained by expansion after a small parameter, is derived and discussed.' Geophysical Institute, University of Bergen, Bergen, Norway. (sir)

8. Currents

80:4069 Arseniev, V. S., A. B. Zubin, A. S. Monin and S. E.

Navrotskaia, 1980. The Lomonosov Current in the field of oeeanological characteristics. (In Russian.) Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 250(1): 197-199.

80:4070 Krivosheya, V. G., E. A. Plakhin, M. T. Savin and

V. B. Titov, 1980. On the intra-annual variability of currents on the Caucasian shelf of the Black Sea. (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 34-39.

80:4071 Meyers, Gary, 1980. Do Sverdrup transports ac-

count for the Pacific North Equatorial Countercurrent? J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1073-1075.

Poleward and equatorward geostrophic transports calculated from density are nearly equal to Sver- drup transports calculated from the curl of the wind stress in the North and South Pacific sub- tropical gyres, but the Sverdrup transports do not account for the Pacific North Equatorial Counter- current. Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California, San Diego, La Jolla, Calif. 92093, U.S.A.

80:4072 Molinari, R. L., 1978/80. Current variability and

its relation to sea-surface topography in the Caribbean Sea and Gulf of Mexico. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 409-436.

Complexity and variability characterize circulation of the Gulf of Mexico and Caribbean Sea with wind stress, currents, atmospheric pressure, eddies, meanders, streaming and the seasons all in- teracting and affecting sea slope. Sea-surface topography is reviewed on both climatological and synoptic time scales, the adequacy of dynamic topographies is discussed relative to their use as level surfaces, and the utilization of satellite leveling to study circulation and sea-surface topography is considered. Includes many plots of dynamic topography and Loop Current positions. National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administra- tion, Atlantic Oceanographic and Meteorological Laboratories, Miami, Fla., U.S.A. (izs)

80:4073 Philander, S. G. H. and R. C. Pacanowski, 1980.

The generation of equatorial currents. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1123-1136.

A multilevel model is applied to study linear and nonlinear equatorial current generation in a con-


tinuously stratified ocean. Instabilities, under- currents, effects of spatially varying winds, and sensitivity of current intensity to dissipation are discussed and related to Indian Ocean phenomena. Initial surface layer jet formation occurs within a week of the sudden onset of zonal winds, a zonal undercurrent appears after approximately one month, and an equilibrium equatorial current system becomes established at about 150 days. Im- portance of ocean floor topography for upper ocean adjustment is considered. Geophysical Fluid Dynamics Laboratory/NOAA, Princeton Universi- ty, Princeton, N.J. 08540, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4074 Pyrkin, Yu. G. and B. I. Samolyubov, 1980.

Transformation of the fine structure of the natural bottom stratified current along its propagation axis . (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 40-49.

Based on direct measurements under natural conditions, transformation of the water density profile and the bottom stratified (suspension) current velocity are analyzed over the whole zone of action. Internal streams with a steplike density distribution were found within the current; their appearance and damping are explained. Distribu- tion of the Richardson number, concentration of suspended particles and turbulent diffusion coefficients are considered across and along the current.

80:4075 Seidov, D. G., 1980. Synoptic eddies in the ocean:

numerical experiment. (In Russian; English abstract.) Fiz. A tmosf . Okeana, 16(1): 73-87.

Numerical simulation of synoptic and large-scale dynamics by a quasi-geostrophic eddy-resolving numerical model leads to analysis of a mechanism and energetics of the synoptic scale eddies in the ocean with fiat bottom. Inertial effects of the interaction of mean flow and eddies, barotropiza- tion, and advection of vorticity are found to be important. Negative viscosity appears to be the essential mechanism of intensification of the mean currents, caused by eddies that appear in back- ward flows.

maximum is consistent with the core of Iceland- Scotland overflow water passing westward through the Fracture Zone at 2500-3000 m depth. Annual variations in the value of this maximum are found to account for only about 20% of its total variance. The density field indicates an increasing horizontal pressure gradient force toward the east below 3000 m, but the distribution of bottom water characteristics provides no evidence of eastward flow in the deepest layers. School of Environmen- tal Sciences, University of East Anglia, Norwich, U.K.

80:4077 McCartney, M. S., L. V. Worthington and M.E.

Raymer, 1980. Anomalous water mass dis- tributions at 55W in the North Atlantic in 1977. J. mar. Res., 38(1): 147-172.

Cells of pure Labrador Sea Water occurred in the Gulf Stream and westward gyre recirculation; a large cell of Mediterranean Water was found in the Slope Water; and water at 1°C to 13°C was anomalously saline. There was very little standard Western North Atlantic Water in the temperature ranges of 3.4-9.0°C and 11-13°C. These meridional distortions may have been 'due in part to increased rotation of the horizontal velocity vector with depth,' ultimately due to changes in the production rate and strength of the source waters for North Atlantic Deep Water and Western North Atlantic Water. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, U.S.A. (mjj)

80:4078 Yamagata, Toshio, 1980. A theory for propaga-

tion of an oceanic warm front with application to Sagami Bay [Japan]. Tellus, 32(1): 73- 76.

The propagation of an oceanic warm front with a coastal jet is discussed as a shock wave in a rotating stratified fluid. Postulating mass and potential vorticity conservation, the phase speed of the front and the amplitude of the coastal jet are derived and used to explain the phenomenon of 'Kyucho'. Division of Ocean Fluid Dynamics, Research Institute for Applied Mechanics, Kyushu University, 6-10-1 Hakozaki, Higashi-ku, Fukuoka 812, Japan.

9. Water masses and fronts

80:4076 Harvey, J. G., 1980. Deep and bottom water in

the Charlie-Gibbs Fracture Zone. J. mar. Res., 38(1): 173-182.

Historical temperature and salinity data show that spatial distribution of the value of the deep salinity

10. Optical properties of sea water (color, transparency, inanimate suspended matter, f luorescence, etc.)

80:4079 Bochkov, V. F., O. V. Kopelevich and B. A.

Kriman, 1980. A spectrophotometer for [ship- board] measurements of Hght extinction by


seawater in the visible and ultraviolet regions of the spectrum. (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 153-157.

80:4080 Luning, K. and M. J. Dring, 1979. Continuous un-

derwater l ight measurement near Helgo- land (North Sea) and its s ignif icance for characteris t ic l ight l imits in the sublittoral region. Helgolander wiss. Meeresunters., 32(4): 403-424.

The light regime (total and spectral irradiance) in 3 regions of Helgoland's rocky sublit toral region is discussed from measurements made at 20-min. in- tervals over a one-year period. Sublit toral habi tats receive 90% of their total annual irradiance between April and September; the water is so tur- bid during the remainder of the year that long periods of darkness occur even at moderate depths. Total annual light received at the lower kelp l imit (8 m depth) is 0.7% of the visible surface irradiance; at the lower algal depth (15 m), 0.05%. Similari ty of these da ta to measurements in other areas suggests that yearly light quanta determine the lower kelp and algal depth limits. Biologische Ans ta l t Helgoland (Meeress ta t ion) : D-2192 Helgoland, F.R.G. (smf)

80:4081 Morel, Andre, 1978/80. In-water and remote

measurements of ocean color. Boundary- layerMet., 18(2): 177-201.

The first part of this paper deals with spectral variation in the reflectance ratio in waters of different turbidi ty and phytoplankton biomass, emphasizing the use of assumptions and empirical laws. The second part deals with the interfering effects of specular reflection at the air-water interface and of atmospheric scattering on remote measurements of ocean color. Laboratoire de Physique et C h i m i e M a r i n e s , S t a t i o n M a r i n e de Villefranche-sur-mer, B.P. 8 F-06230 Villefranche- sur-mer, France. (mjj)

signs can occur along either the right or left flank, depending on the interplay between the centrifugal and divergence effects.' National Oceanic and At- mospheric Admin is t ra t ion , At lan t ic Oceano- graphic and Meteorological Laboratories, Miami, Fla., U.S.A. (izs)

80:4083 Estes, R. H., 1978/80. A s imulat ion of global

ocean tide recovery us ing al t imeter data with sys temat ic orbit error. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 75-140.

Least-squares analysis of s imulated satellite al t imeter da ta to separate t idal signals from systematic errors in orbit determination, which can resemble t idal signals, demonstrates that such errors must be and can be accurately modeled. Includes numerous tables and t idal ampl i tude charts; an appendix on computat ion of theoretical global ocean tide models and another appendix on harmonic expansions of global numerical ocean tide models which includes complete tables of harmonic expansion coefficients. Business and Technological Systems, Inc., Seabrook, Md., U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4084 Marsh, J. G., T. V. Martin, J. J. McCarthy and P.

S. Chovitz, 1978/80. Mean sea surface computation using GEOS-3 a l t imeter data. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 359-378.

Mean sea surface heights above a reference ellip- soid were calculated to submeter accuracy for six ocean areas from GEOS-3 radar al t imetry and laser-derived precise orbital position data; these were compared to known geographic features. The technique is useful in the reduction of geoid uncer- tainty for areas where gravity data are sparse, and may be precise enough in some areas to detect such features as cyclonic cold rings. Includes several contour maps of Pacific and Indian Ocean surfaces d e r i v e d f rom a l t i m e t e r c r o s s o v e r d a t a . Geodynamics Branch, Goddard Space Flight Center, Greenbelt, Md., U.S.A. (slr)

12. Tides and sea level

80:4082 Chew, Frank, 1978/80. Difference in centrifugal

force and the slope of sea level off Miami [Florida]. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 63-74.

Chew's (1975) turning vorticity equation is appl ied to Schmitz and Richardson's (1966) 30-day observations of quasi-steady surface flow off Miami to elucidate the issue of sea level slope along con- t inental boundaries. For the Florida Strai ts it is concluded tha t 'downstream sea level slope of both

80:4085 Parke, M. E. and M. C. Hendershott, 1978/80. M2,

$2, K1 models of the global ocean tide on an elast ic Earth. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 379-408.

As an approximate solution to the problem of ocean basin resonance at t idal frequencies, test funct ions are der ived from Lap lace ' s t ida l equations with ocean loading and self-gravitation, and are interpolated between coastal and island data points. Maps of the geocentric tide, the induced free space potential, the induced vertical component of the solid earth tide, and the induced vertical component of the gravitational field are


developed using Green's functions provided by W. E. Farrell. The K1 ocean contribution is shown to be very small at several locations potentially useful for determining the existence of core resonance at near-K1 frequencies. NOAA/PMEL, Seattle, Wash., U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4086 Schwiderski, E. W., 1978/80. Ocean tides. I. Glo-

bal ocean tidal equations. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 161-218.

Hansen's (1966) hydrodynamical-numerical method is improved in terms of eddy dissipation, bottom friction and technique. Newly derived continuous and discrete (1° x 1 °) ocean tidal equations are applied to an Ms tide model for a single layer basin with realistic bathymetry (Smith, 1966), and are compared to island tide observations. Results demonstrate the feasibility of achieving an accuracy of 10 cm. However, shortcomings persist for basin areas of large irregularity, particularly over narrow ridges, and are dealt with further in Part II. U.S. Naval Surface Weapons Center, Dahlgren, Va., U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4087 Schwiderski, E. W., 1978/80. Ocean tides. II. A

hydrodynamical interpolation model. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 219-256.

Deficiencies of the purely hydrodynamic Ms ocean tide model (good to about 10 cm) developed in Part I are addressed. The hydrostatic averaging prin- ciples employed by Smith (1966) are modified for more than 3000 grid points (marked by bottom irregularity or coastlines) to be more hydro- dynamically realistic. Then, a more physically realistic shoreline is incorporated by the interpolation of empirical tidal data, and by allowing a monitored inflow and outflow across the mathe- matical ocean boundary. Results have allowed an Ms tide model good to about 5 cm, leaving ample room for superposed errors of other tidal con- stituents. The completed Ms ocean tide is published separately in tabulated map form, and work has begun on the Ss, Ns, Ks, O1, PI, QI, Mf, Mm, and Ssa tides. U.S. Naval Surface Weapons Center, Dahlgren, Va., U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4088 Schwiderski, E. W., 1980. On charting global

ocean tides. Revs Geophys. Space Phys., 18(1): 243-268.

This article synthesizes the knowledge of ocean tides and how such tides relate to ocean currents, atmospheric circulations, and accuracy of geoid measurements. Computer models can predict the total global ocean tide to an accuracy of 10 cm.

However, improvements to the model can still be made for certain areas where data are marginal, such as the Arctic Sea and near Antarctica. Includes ca. 180 references. U.S. Naval Surface Weapons Center, Dahlgren, Va. 22448, U.S.A. (drh)

80:4089 Zetler, B. D., 1978/80. IAPSO [International

Association for the Physical Sciences of the Ocean] compilation of pelagic tides. Mar. Geod., 3(1/4): 273-288.

In 1979 the IAPSO Advisory Committee on Tides and Mean Sea Level published a compilation of pelagic tidal data including harmonic constants for 108 deep-water stations. Good, global, co-tidal and co-range charts are now possible due to the development of pelagic tide gauges, satellite altimetry and high-speed computers. The history of tide (and particularly pelagic tide) research is briefly outlined beginning with Galileo's account of Aristotle's leap (in desperation) from the cliffs of the Euripus. Includes several co-tidal plots and photos of pelagic gauges. Scripps Institution of Oceanography, UCSD, La Jolla, Calif., U.S.A. (fcs)

13. Ice

80:4090 Ackley, S. F., 1978/79. Mass-balance aspects of

Weddell Sea pack ice. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 391- 405.

Physical characteristics, advance and retreat, deformation, accumulation and ablation of Weddell Sea pack ice are described from field work, satellite imagery, and ship- and iceberg drift data. Based on the newly inferred annual ice accumulation of >3 m (previous estimates were <2 m) over the continental shelf to the south, there may be a significantly greater salt flux into the ocean over the shelf, a process which would increase the production of Western Shelf Water (an Antarctic Bottom Water component). U.S. Army Cold Regions Research and Engineer ing Laboratory, Hanover, N.H. 03755, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4091 Bentley, C. R., J. W. Clough, K. C. Jezek and Sion

Shabtaie, 1978/79. Ice-thickness patterns and the dynamics of the Ross Ice She l l An- tarctica. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 287-294.

Features of a detailed 20-m-contour map of ice thickness (produced from airborne radar measurements coupled to the network of ice-shelf sur-


face survey stations) are discussed; the irregularity of many features (such as ice thickness minima and maxima, a ridge-trough system 450 km long, steep regional gradients of 10 m / k m in freely floating ice, highly contorted contours suggesting 'turbulence') points to dynamic non-equilibrium, 'so that the ice shelf as a whole suggests a state of rather rapid change.' Geophysical and Polar Research Center, Department of Geology and Geophysics, University of Wisconsin--Madison, Madison, Wis. 53706, U.S.A. (smf)

80:4092 Campbell, W. J., R. O. Ramseier, H. J. Zwally and

P. Gloersen, 1978/80. A r c t i c s e a - i c e variat ions from t ime- lapse pass ive microwave imagery. Boundary-layer Met., 18(1): 99-106.

The interpretive bases established for the Nimbus- 5 ESMR images are briefly reviewed and construc- tion of a time-lapse motion picture film of a 16- month set of serial ESMR images is presented; selected images are used to illustrate some of the more significant findings as determined from early data analysis. Ice type and concentrat ion signatures are recognized, and melt patterns (recognized as changing brightness temperatures) are apparent. Includes 3 color Nimbus-5 ESMR images. U.S. Geological Survey, U.S.A. (smf)

80:4093 Conveners, 1978/79. Sympos ium on Dynamics of

Large Ice Masses , Ottawa, 21-25 August 1978. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 520 pp.; 35 papers.

The papers in this symposium, convened by the International Glaciological Society, are about equally divided between general considerations of ice mass properties (flow, stability, thinning, com- paction, crystal size, and seismic, ultrasonic, thermal and conductivity structures) and specific con- sideration of the properties of particular ice flows, caps and shelves, most of them in Antarctica. About a third of the papers deal specifically with ice shelves or sea ice of some form. Includes author and subject indexes. (fcs)

80:4094 Coon, M. D. and R. S. Pritchard, 1978/79.

Mechanical energy considerat ions in sea- ice dynamics . J. Glaciol., 24(90): 377-389.

Scalar quantities of wind and water stress, velocity, and ice stress and deformation are combined to describe ice behavior in terms of mechanical energy balance. The resulting equation, 'an inner product of the ice velocity and momentum-balance equation,' allows the identification of ice cover effects. Application of the formulation to Beaufort

Sea winter conditions is described. Flow Research Company, 21414 68th Avenue South, Kent, Wash. 98031, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4095 Dey, B., 1980. Variat ions of August ice cover in

the Beaufort Sea and related weather conditions. Bull. Am. met. Soc., 61(3): 213-217.

Relationships between mesoscale weather conditions and the retreat of pack ice edge or expansion of open water in the Beaufort Sea are in- vestigated. Strong southeasterly winds and higher than normal surface temperatures appear to be the principal contributing factors to the maximum retreat of polar pack ice and vast expansion of open water. Department of Geography, University of Saskatchewan, Saskatoon, Canada S7N 0W0.

80:4096 Jesek, K. C., C. R. Bentley and J. W. Clough,

1978/79. Electromagnet ic sounding of bottom crevasses on the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarc- tica. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 321-330.

Radar sounding profiles at station J-9 indicate two intersecting sets of bottom crevasses 50-100 m high, several tens of meters across, and at least several km long. One set is nearly normal to flow direction and probably developed near the grounding line of ice stream B. The other set may have developed subsequently during lateral spreading onto the ice shelf. Geophysical and Polar Research Center, Department of Geology and Geophysics, University of Wisconsin--Madison, Madison, Wis. 53706, U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4097 Kirchner, J. F. and C. R. Bentley, 1978/79.

Seismic short-refraction studies on the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarct ica. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 313- :319.

Measurements at 5 stations of compressional wave velocities indicate horizontal constant-velocity surfaces. Shear wave velocities, however, show large transverse variation implying structural irregularity in the firn or changes in preferred crystal orientation, both presumably in response to anisotropic shelf stresses. Atlantic Richfield Com- pany, 1900 St. James Avenue, Houston, Tex. 77056, U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4098 Kirchner, J. F., C. R. Bentley and J. D. Robertson,

1978/79. Lateral density differences from se i smic measurements at a s ite on the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarct ica. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 309- 312.


Compressional wave, velocity-depth (thus density- depth) profiles made just 2-km apart (albeit in different years) indicate variation by as much as 8%, particularly in terms of depth to the solid ice. These and other differences are believed to be related to the prior passage of the ice through a high-stress field associated with convergent ice masses. Atlantic Richfield Company, 1900 St. James Avenue, Houston, Tex. 77056, U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4099 Neal, C. S., 1978/79. The dynamics of the Ross

Ice Shelf revealed by radio echo-sounding. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 295-307.

Distinctive features present on the radio-echo records delineate several flow lines on the ice shelf. Measurement of the power returned from the ice- water interface revealed regional variations in the r.f. dielectric loss of Ross Ice Shelf ice; these are used to indicate zones of bottom melting and freezing. Scott Polar Research Institute, Cam- bridge CB2 1ER, England.

80:4100 Neralla, V. R. and W. S. Liu, 1978/79. A simple

model to calculate the compactness of ice floes. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 407-414.

Equations of continuity and momentum are applied to ice treated as a film of Newtonian highly viscous fluid whose movement is affected by air-ice stress, water-ice stress, Coriolis force, pressure- gradient due to sea surface tilt, and internal ice stress. Motion predictions agree well with observed cases in the Beaufort Sea; mini-computers, widely available at forecasting centers, are all that is required. Atmospheric Environment Service, Downsview, Ontario M3H 5T4, Canada. (slr)

80:4101 Robin, G. de Q., 1978/79. Formation, flow, and

disintegration of ice shelves. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 259-271.

Evidence is presented showing basal melting beneath the thicker parts of ice shelves to be con- siderably greater than generally appreci- a ted-some 30% of the volume of the average ice shelf. Applying this revised estimate of basal melting to mass balance calculations brings Antarctic ice sheet accumulations and losses into approximate equilibrium. The outflow of inland ice appears crucial for the survival of Antarctic ice shelves. Ice shelf disintegration due to climatic change is briefly discussed. Scott Polar Research Institute, Lensfield Road, Cambridge CB2 1ER, England. (izs)

80:4102 Rothrock, D. A., 1978/79. Modeling sea-ice fea-

tures and processes. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 359- 375.

This paper reviews some of the roles and processes of formation of local features such as floes, leads, and ridges, and the ways this knowledge has been accommodated in large-scale models. Mass balance is complicated by the fact that a large area of ice contains a distribution of ice thicknesses, changing thermally at different rates; deformation produces new open water and causes thin ice to be broken and piled into thick ridges of rubble. A theory of the resulting evolution of the thickness distribution is in the early stages of evaluation. The idea of plastic behavior is qualitatively appealing; but this hypothesis too, needs to be tested more rigorously. Polar Science Center, Divi- sion of Marine Resources, University of Washing- ton, Seattle, Wash. 98105, U.S.A.

80:4103 Shabtaie, Sion and C. R. Bentley, 1978/79.

Investigation of bottom mass-balance rates by electrical resistivity soundings on the Ross Ice Shelf, Antarctica. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 331-343.

Apparent electrical resistivity curves developed with a 4-electrode Schlumberger array and a computer program relating resistivity to density and temperature generally show four characteristic zones. Except in basal areas close to ice streams and outlet glaciers, which are highly resistive, apparent resistivity in the basal zone falls rapidly with distance due to the highly conductive underlying seawater, and, here, mass balance rates appear to be within a few tenths of a meter from zero, at several hundred km from the ice front. Geophysical and Polar Research Center, Depart- ment of Geology and Geophysics, University of Wisconsin--Madison, Madison, Wis. 53706, U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4104 Smirnov, V. I., 1979. Regularities in the

redistribution of sea ice in foreign Arctic waters. (In Russian.) Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1979(11): 109-112.

80:4105 Thomas, R. H., 1978/79. The dynamics of marine

ice sheets. J. Glaciol., 24(90): 167-177.

This paper examines the factors that affect the stability of a marine ice sheet (which rests on land that is largely below sea level), and explores 'possible feedback effects which may influence the rate of growth or decay of the ice sheet.' A description of


the physical significance of equations for the thickness and migration-rate of ice at the grounding line is provided. Equil ibrium of the West Ant- arctic Ice Sheet and its likely response to rapid ablation of the ice shelves (caused by climatic changes) are discussed. Inst i tute for Quaternary Studies, University of Maine at Orono, Orono, Maine 04473, U.S.A. (mjj)

80:4106 Thomas, R. H., 1978/79. Ice shelves: a review. J.

Glaciol., 24(90): 273-286.

lce shelves are defined as 'floating ice s h e e t s . . , at- tached either to land or to a grounded ice sheet ' and are characterized by almost exclusive Antarc- tic occurrence, snow accumulation nourishment, movement rates of the order of hundreds of meters per year, frontal calving which produces icebergs, basal melting rates ca. 1 m/yr , and simplic- i t y - w e l l - d e f i n e d boundary condit ions, slow change, and dep th - independen t hor izonta l velocities. Although extensively studied because of their accessibility, ice shelves remain problematic (e.g., grounding-line dynamics, fracture and calving mechanisms, ice rise equilibria, basal flux). This review covers mass balance and basal melting, creep, ice shelf-ice sheet interactions and relevant field work. Insti tute for Quaternary Studies, University of Maine at Orono, Orono, Maine 04473, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4107 Weeks, W. F. and A. J. Gow, 1980. Crystal

a l ignments in the fast ice of Arctic Alaska. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1137-1146.

Field observations at 60 sites along a 1200 km stretch of the north coast of Alaska are used to extend and confirm earlier work which indicated that strongly developed crystallographic al ignments in sea ice are reflections of the current direction at the ice-seawater interface. U.S. Army Cold Regions Research and Engineering Laboratory, Hanover, N.H. 03755, U.S.A. (bwt)

80:4108 Zotikov, I. A., V. S. Zagorodnov and J. V.

Raikovsky, 1980. Core dril l ing through the Ross Ice Shelf (Antarct ica) confirmed basal freezing. Science, 207(4438): 1463-1465.

A 416 m continuous ice core obtained with a new drilling technique consisted of homogeneous bubbly glacial ice to a depth of 410 m; the last 6 m consisted of sea ice. This lower layer showed a large vertical crystal arrangement aligned with the direction of the current immediately below the ice shelf. Ice growth rate at the bottom of the core was about 2 cm/yr ; the upper boundary of the sea ice

layer was porous and slushy and exhibited a good hydraulic connection with the sea below the solid ice layer. In addit ion to recognizing zones of shelf bottom melt (northern sections) and freezing (southern sections), a th i rd zone-- f reez ing- con t ro l l ed or i n i t i a t e d by f r e shwa te r in- f l uences -was proposed for the seaward side of the grounding line of the ice shelf. Inst i tute of Geography, U.S.S.R. Academy of Sciences, Staromonetny 29, Moscow 109017, U.S.S.R. (smf)

14. Waves and oscillations

80:4109 Aida, Isamu, 1979. A source model of the t sunami

a c c o m p a n y i n g the T o n a n k a i [Japan] earthquake of 1944. (In Japanese; English summary.) Bull. Earthq. Res. Inst., Univ. Tokyo, 54(2): 329-341.

Faul t models describing the Tonankai earthquake of 1944 are compared on the basis of tsunami generation. One in which two fault planes strike N45°E from 33.08°N, 136.3°E and which has a reducing factor of 0.45 agrees best with the observed da ta in Shimoda Bay 150 km from the source region. Such models appear useful in describing tsunamis generated near the Nankai Trough. Earthquake Research Institute, Universi- ty of Tokyo, Tokyo, ,Japan. (mcs)

80:4110 Bates, H. F. and L. H. Shapiro, 1980. Long-period

gravity w a v e s in ice-covered sea. J. geophys. Res.. 85(C2): 1095-1100.

By modelling a 'floating ice sheet under compressive stress . . . as a laterally compressed thin linearly elastic plate floating on a compressible liquid of constant depth over a rigid bot tom' and analyzing the system as a wave guide for plane waves, flexural and floating-membrane gravity wave bands are found. As breaking of compressed ice impulsively releases adequate energy to produce long-period waves in floating ice, it is suggested that (1) ' long-period wave motion ac- companies lateral compression of the ice sheet ' and (2) compressive stress buildup in ice might be determined by wave measurements. Geophysical Institute, University of Alaska, Fairbanks, Alaska 99701, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4111 Brevik, Iver and Bjorn Aas, 1980. Flume experi-

ment on w a v e s and currents . I. Rippled bed. Coast. Engng, Amst., 3(3): 149-177.

0LR(1980)27(9) A. Physical Oceanography 599

In this, the first of a three-part study, amplitude variation, wave attenuation (for determination of appropriate bed friction factors) and the horizontal fluid velocity component are studied within a wave-current-large-scale rippled bed flume. Results agree reasonably well with existing theory, and 'the most characteristic feature of these observations is the reduction of the mean horizontal velocity profile, predicted earlier on theoretical grounds . . . but [probably] not measured before.' Division of Port and Ocean Engineering, The University of Trondheim, N-7034 Trondheim- NTH, Norway. (smf)

80:4112 Brown, O. B. and R. H. Evans, 1978/80. Evidence

for zonally-trapped propagating waves in the eastern Atlantic from satellite sea surface temperature observations. Boundary- layer Met., 18(2): 145-157.

Moore et al. (1978) and other workers have hypothesized that wind-forcing in the western Atlantic results in eastward propagating Kelvin waves which uplift the thermocline during their passage, thus causing the eastern equatorial and African coastal boundary upwelling phenomena. The hypothesis is tested by examining satellite and ship SST information obtained during GATE. Periodic cooling is observed at some, but not all, eastern sites; shows no solitary, large-scale onset; and is consistent with either westward or eastward propagating, quasi-periodic waves; thus does not support the hypothesis. Division of Meteorology and Physical Oceanography, Rosenstiel School of Marine and Atmospheric Science, University of Miami, Miami, Fla., U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4113 Chaplin, J. R., 1980. Developments of stream-

function wave theory. Coast. Engng, Amst., 3(3): 179-205.

The stream-function wave theory, the presently most accurate theory applied to the problem of the periodic wave of permanent form, is reformulated for use with only modest computer facilities; results are in good agreement with Cokelet's (1977) exact solutions. Assessment of Dean's (1974) stream-function tables shows them to be significantly in error for very steep waves, resulting in underestimation (by -~ 25%) of crest particle velocities. Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool, Liverpool, L69 3BX, Great Britain. (sir)

80:4114 Guza, R. T. and E. B. Thornton, 1980. Local and

shoa led c o m p a r i s o n s of sea sur face

elevations, pressures, and velocities. J. geophys. Res., 85(C3): 1524-1530.

Measurements of sea surface elevation and velocity along a line extending from depths of 1-10 m show that linear shoaling theory is adequate to yield a semi-quantitative prediction of wind wave spectra. Predictions based on linear wave theory departed significantly from the observations at depths less than 3 m. Shore Processes Laboratory, Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of Califor- nia, La Jolla, Calif. 92037, U.S.A. (mcs)

80:4115 Hansen, R. J., D. L. Hunston, C. C. Ni and M. M.

Reischman, 1980. An experimental study of flow-generated waves on a flexible surface. d. Sound Vibr., 68(3): 317-334.

Wave generation on an elastic surface is in- vestigated for flat plate boundary layer flows. Three distinct types of surface waves are identified, all appearing above a critical onset fluid velocity and exhibiting propagation velocities approximately two orders of magnitude less than the free-stream fluid velocity. A longitudinally- oriented, small-scale 'streaky structure' is super- imposed on the waves. Naval Research Laboratory, Washington, D.C. 20375, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4116 Herterich, K. and K. Hasselmann, 1980. A

similarity relation for the nonlinear energy transfer in a finite-depth gravity-wave spectrum. J. Fluid Mech., 97(1): 215-224.

Principal finding of this investigation is that the 'narrow-peak results for infinite-depth waves can be carried over direct ly . . , to the finite-depth case by straightforward scale transformations.' Thus, a useful guide for parameterizing nonlinear transfer in finite-depth wave prediction models may be provided by the similarity relations between the finite-depth and infinite-depth cases. Max- Planck-Institut fur Meteorologie, Hamburg, F.R.G. (izs)

80:4117 Hsueh, Y., 1980. Scattering of continental shelf

waves by longshore variations in bottom topography. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1147- 1150.

It is established that for variations for which dis- tanees from isobaths to the shore remain a fixed fraction of the local shelf width, no scattering could occur, even though the amplitude of such variation may be finite. Only deviations from shelf-similar depth profiles cause scattering which, for an exponentially deepening shelf, is likely to be


limited to the lowest couple of shelf wave modes. The scattering gives rise to cross-shelf differences in the arrival time of flow events at points 'forward' from a topographic irregularity. The rate of this phase change (---1.5 ° km -1) for a topographic feature of moderate amplitude appears to be com- parable to that observed. Department of Oceanography, Florida State University, Tallahassee, Fla. 32306, U.S.A.

80:4118 Johns, B., 1980. The model l ing of the approach of

bores to a shorel ine. Coast. Engng, Amst., 3(3): 207-219.

A model simulating the turbulence effects (turbulence production at the face of the bore as well as shear-generated turbulence at the beach boundary layer) of single and periodic bores approaching a sloping shoreline is developed. Calculations of the corresponding bottom stress show that it is strongly influenced by turbulence at the face of the bore, a factor ignored in previous theoretical processes. When periodic bores occur, the model shows the mean bottom stress moving off-shore and possibly resulting in sand bar development. Department of Meteorology, University of Reading, 2 Earley Gate, Whiteknights, Reading RG6 2AU, Great Britain. (sir)

80:4119 Johns, B. and M. A. Ali, 1980. The numerical

model l ing of s torm surges in the Bay of Bengal . Q. Jl R. met. Soc., 106(447): 1-18.

The non-linear model (1) covers an area extending from ca. 11°-22°N and includes the Ganges- Brahmaputra-Meghna river system, (2) allows the recording of a 3-day history of surge-generating capacity before landfall, (3) determines interactions between surge and astronomical tide, (4) con- siders pure wind stress forcing while ignoring barometric forcing, (5) shows surge response to be critically dependent upon cyclone track and diameter, (6) predicts inland penetrations, and (7) can be extended to include effects of freshwater discharge. Department of Meteorology, University of Reading, Reading, Berkshire, RG6 2AH, U.K. (izs)

80:4120 Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1980. On the distribution

of the heights of sea waves: some effects of nonl inearity and finite band width. J. geophys. Res., 85(C3): 1519-1523.

Recent wave height data fitted by the two- dimensional Weibull distribution are shown to cor- respond equally as well to the one-parameter Rayleigh distribution if the rms amplitude of ~ is

taken from the original record and not from the frequency spectrum. Department of Applied Mathematics and Theoretical Physics, University of Cambridge, England. (mcs)

80:4121 Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1980. Spin and angular

m o m e n t u m in gravity waves . J. Fluid Mech., 97(1): 1-25.

The angular momentum of a progressive surface wave train about any point is considered. Lagrangian mean angular momentum comprises two parts arising from orbital motion and Stokes drift. If moments are taken at some point other than mean surface level, the momentum varies in proportion to elevation of that point, and dis- appears at a specific elevation called the level of action. Waves must attain this height in order to sustain a white cap in a quasi-steady state. The Eulerian mean angular momentum is zero to the second order. The resolution of this paradox and other interesting phenomena arising from these properties, e.g., the inability of Gerstner waves to support whitecaps, are discussed. Department of Applied Mathematics and Theoretical Physics, Silver Street, Cambridge, England. (fcs)

80:4122 Matushevsky, G. V., 1979. On extreme possible

wind-generated wave heights on oceans and s e a . (In Russian; English abs t rac t . ) Meteorologiya Gidrol., 1979(11): 78-81.

A statistical method for estimating extreme wave heights is presented based on the long-term distribution function of individual wave heights. It is demonstrated that the probability of exceeding the long-term limit height is 3 x 10 9. Estimations for the Black Sea, Atlantic and the Antarctic are given.

80:4123 Muzylev, S. V. and A. B. Odulo, 1980. Waves in

the rotat ing stratif ied liquid near a sloping coast . (In Russian.) Dokl. Akad. Nauk SSSR, 250(2): 331-335.

80:4124 Mysak, L. A., 1980. Recent advances in shelf

w a v e dynamics . Revs Geophys. Space Phys., 18(1): 211-241.

A theoretical discussion of the propagation, stability, generation, scattering, interactions, and dissipation of low-frequency waves trapped along continental shelves, and brief accounts of laboratory and oceanic evidence of these 'shelf' waves, are presented. Emphasis is on recent developments in shelf wave dynamics; several theoretical and obser-

0LR(1980)27(9) A. Physical Oceanography 601

vational questions that deserve attention in the future are raised. Ca. 180 references. Departments of Mathematics and Oceanography, University of British Columbia, Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada V6T lW5.

80:4125 Packwood, A. R. and D. H. Peregrine, 1980. The

propagation of solitary waves and bores over a porous bed. Coast. Engng, Amst., 3(3): 221-242.

Solitary wave attenuation and bore pressure distribution over shallow and infinite porous beds are modeled and velocity components at the interface are analyzed. Results indicate a deep porous bed may significantly contribute to wave damping and bore energy absorption; fluidization of the bed surface occurs in the presence of large bores or steep- fronted waves. The porosity of the bed may be as important as boundary layer energy dissipation. Department of Applied Mathematics, University of Bristol, Bristol BS8 1TW, Great Britain. (slr)

80:4126 Pietrafesa, L. J. and G. S. Janowitz, 1980. Lack of

evidence of southerly propagating continental shelf waves in Onslow Bay, N.C. Geophys. Res. Letts, 7(2): 113-116.

Sea level phase propagation evidence suggests that Wilmington, N.C., SL phase lags relative to other coastal stations are best explained in terms of southerly propagating barotopic shelf waves, and ' that coherent sea level phenomena either propagate or are advected by the Gulf Stream northward along the North Carolina coast in Onslow Bay.' Department of Marine Science and Engineering, North Carolina State University, Raleigh, N.C. 27650, U.S.A. (smf)

80:4127 Reddy, B. S. R., N. D. Prasad and G. V. Reddy,

1980. Wave forecasting methods and their applicabil ity--a case study off Visakhapat- nam [eastern India]. Indian J. mar. Sci., 9(1): 45-50.

SMB and PNJ methods of wave forecasting have been applied with some modifications for hind- casting waves during a cyclone. Wave periods calculated by these methods are completely different; SMB periods are in good agreement with the observed wave periods in shallow water. Wave heights computed are of the same order; however, the SMB method is preferable as forecasting curves are available for higher wind speeds and the resultant values are in better agreement with observed data. Department of Meteorology & Oceanography, Andhra University, Waltair 530 003, India.

80:4128 Tayfun, M. A., 1980. Narrow-band nonlinear sea

waves. J. geophys. Res., 85(C3): 1548-1552.

Probabilistic description of nonlinear waves with a narrow-band spectrum is simplified to a form in which each realization of the surface displacement becomes an amplitude-modulated Stokes wave with a mean frequency and random phase. Nonlinear effects on sea surface properties in a semiclosed or closed form are described, and it is shown that surface displacements are non- Gaussian and skewed, as was previously predicted by the Gram-Charlier approximation; that wave heights are Rayleigh distributed, just as in the linear case; and that crests are non-Rayleigh. College of Engineering and Petroleum, Kuwait University, Kuwait.

80:4129 Thompson, Rory and B. V. Hamon, 1980. Wave

setup of harbor water levels. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1151-1152.

Radiation stress by incoming sea surface waves or swell can raise the mean level of water in a harbor by an amount independent of the size of the harbor. This can be a significant confounding factor in determining sea level changes, if the sea level gauge is inside a harbor with a moderately" shallow entrance. The mechanism is independent of 'inverse barometer' or wind effects, though it is likely to enhance them. Division of Fisheries and Oceanography, Commonwealth Scientific and In- dustrial Research Organization, Cronulla, New South Wales, Australia.

80:4130 Waiters, R. A. and R. T. Cheng, 1980. Accuracy of

an estuarine hydrodynamic model using smooth elements. War. Resour. Res., 16(1): 187-195.

Numerical experiments are developed to assess the performance of finite-element estuarine hydrodynamic models under varying treatments of the open and shoreline boundaries. Velocity errors are significant at the open boundary if surface elevation is specified, and methods for minimizing such errors are outlined; smooth, curve-sided elements at lateral boundaries yield greater continuity than piecewise linear elements do. A network development method is described and applied to San Francisco Bay. Water Resources Division, U.S. Geological Survey, Menlo Park, Calif. 94025, U.S.A. (fcs)

80:4131 Zaitsev, A. A., 1980. Induced long waves in a

rotating stratified fluid layer. (In Russian; English abstract.) Okeanologiia, 20(1): 13-18.


Within the framework of linear theory and hydrostatic approximation the induced motions of a rotating stratified fluid layer are considered. The evolution of unsteady surface and internal gravity waves and the formation of a geostrophic current are discussed.

15. I n t e r n a l w a v e s a n d t ides

of internal waves whose energies are represented by the Garrett and Munk (1975) model spectrum is summarized. Computations of the bispectrum of power and the autobispectrum of vertical displacement indicate that the level of the bispectral signal is much too low to be detected by any reasonable observation program. Even more disturbing, bispectra of Eulerian variables are subject to a kinematic contamination causing a significant bispectral level which can easily be mis- interpreted as a nonlinear interaction. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Mass. 02543, U.S.A.

80:4132 Chen, H. H. and D. J. Kaup, 1980. Linear stabili-

ty of internal wave solitons in a deep stratified fluid. Phys. Fluids, 23(2): 235-238.

A continuous spectrum and two bound states con- stitute the solution of the linear stability problem of the Benjamin-Ono soliton. Closure is proven. Department of Physics and Astronomy, University of Maryland, College Park, Md. 20742, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4133 Drzazgowski, Jerzy and Leonard Gajewski, 1979. A

system of temperature measurements as an indicator of internal waves. (In Polish; English abstract.) Zesz. nauk Wydz. Biol. Nauk Ziemi, Oceanogr., 6: 11-20.

Internal wave parameters were measured using six accurate (=t=0.01°C) temperature gauges on lines anchored to three submerged buoys which were located at the vertices of an equilateral triangle 50 m on a side. Data were transmitted by cable to the ship, and were recorded on a column printer. (mjj)

80:4134 Krezel, Adam, Jacek Nowacki and Kazimierz

Szefler, 1979. Characteristics of temperature changes in Gdansk Bay [Poland] in the light of investigations carried out on internal waves. (In Polish; English abstract.) Zesz. nauk Wydz. Biol. Nauk Ziemi, Oceanogr., 6: 37-44.

Temperature fluctuations reaching 1.5C ° were caused by short-term internal waves. Determina- tion of the range of fluctuation formed the basis for an internal wave measurement system.

80:4135 McComas, C. H. and M. G. Briscoe, 1980. Bi-

spectra of internal waves. J. Fluid Mech., 97(1): 205-213.

A detailed numerical computation of bispectra arising from weak nonlinear resonant interactions

80:4136 Pomphrey, Neil, J. D. Meiss and K. M. Watson,

1980. Description of nonlinear internal wave interactions using Langevin methods. J. geophys. Res., 85(C2): 1085-1094.

McComas and Bretherton's (1977) conclusions on the GM-76 spectrum are confirmed with two Langevin techniques--one based on fluctuation- dissipation theorem, the other on the Krylov- Bogoliubov-Mitropolsky perturbation theory. Several methods of calculating energy transport within the internal wave field are compared; simple analytic expressions are derived for elastic scattering, induced diffusion, and parametric sub- harmonic instability; and 'net energy flow in the nonequilibrium portion of the GM-76 spectrum is discussed.' Department of Physics, University of California, Berkeley, Calif. 94720, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4137 Redell, R.-D., 1979. Winderzeugte Tragheits-

bewegungen und Energie-korrelationen in- terner Wellen im tropischen Atlantik. [On wind-generated inertial oscillations and energy correlations of internal waves in the tropical Atlantic.] Ber. Inst. Meeresk. Christian-Albrechts-Univ., 70:62 pp.

Current velocity and temperature data gathered during Phase III of GATE were analyzed to determine the influence of wind stress on the mixed layer current in the inertial frequency band as well as the correlation between high-frequency variations and semidiurnal tidal modulations at time scales > 1 day. Verification is provided for Pollard and Millard's (1970) model of wind- generated inertial oscillations. Institut fur Meereskunde, Abt. Meeresphysik, Dusternbrooker Weg 20, 2300 Kiel 1, F.R.G. (izs)

80:4138 Ruddick, Barry, 1980. Critical layers and the

Garrett-Munkspectrum. ~ mar. Res., 38(1): 135-145.


The effect of critical level absorption of internal waves as they interact with the mean flow is es- timated and it is found that the wave momentum flux lost to this effect is nearly proportional to the mean velocity. A 5 m/day downward propagation of the shear zone results from wave absorption on the shear flow. Research School of Earth Sciences, The Australian National University, P.O. Box 4, Canberra, A.C.T. (mcs)

sonar e c h o . . , was measured at beam aspect' on live fish (about 18 acoustic wavelengths long). Inter-trial echo variability was displayed as was a dependence of average echo amplitude on the fish's aspect angle. Equivalences for extending laboratory measurements to the field are considered. Gulf Research and Development Com- pany, H.T.S.C., 11111 South Wilcrest, Houston, Tex. 77099, U.S.A. (izs)

17. Underwater acoustics

80:4139 Clay, C. S. and Kung Huang, 1980. Single mode

transmission and acoustic backscattering measurements in a laboratory waveguide. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 67(3): 792-794.

Farfield sound scattering measurements were made within a limited space by employing a thick waveguide (about 35 acoustic wavelengths deep) and exciting it in the first mode. The target strengths of a steel sphere obtained by scattering measurements and by theoretical predictions showed good agreement. Results have applicability for the laboratory measurement of live fish target strengths. Geophysical and Polar Research Center, University of Wisconsin, Madison, Wis. 53706, U.S.A. (izs)

80:4140 Hall, Marshall, 1980. Surface-duct propagation:

an evaluation of models of the effects of surface roughness. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 67(3): 803-811.

Mixed layer acoustic propagation (4-16 kHz) experiments in the open ocean around Australia revealed non-satisfactory predictions by all propagation models currently in use; best predictability was attributed to the AMOS (North Atlantic) model at 8 kHz. A regression equation is presented for improving relative energy predictions within the surface duct. Includes appendix: Scattering and attenuation by a scattering layer. RAN Research Laboratory, P.O. Box 706, Darlinghurst NSW 2010, Australia. (izs)

80:4141 Huang, Kung and C. S. Clay, 1980. Backscat-

tering cross sections of live fish: PDF and aspect. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 67(3): 795-802.

In a waveguide and at 220 kHz, 'the probability density function of the peaks of the envelopes of

80:4142 Mikhalevsky, P. N., 1980. Crossing rate statistics

for finite bandwidth or modulated multi- path signals. J. acoust. Soc. Am., 67(3): 812- 815.

It is shown that source bandwidth and modulation increase phase crossing rate while leaving amplitude crossing rate unchanged. Data from the CASE experiment conducted in the Pacific in 1973 are compared with theoretical predictions with very favorable results. Dyer and Shepard's (1977) consistent overprediction of the ratio of amplitude to phase crossing rates is explained by accounting for modulation effects. Naval Underwater Systems Center, New London Laboratory, New London, Conn. 06320, U.S.A.

18. Fluid mechanics

80:4143 Acheson, D. J., 1980. 'S table ' density stratifi-

cation as a catalyst for instability. J. Fluid Mech., 96(4): 723-733.

A physical explanation is suggested for provocation of the instability of certain fluid systems by adding a 'bottom-heavy' density gradient. It is shown that stratification shifts the oscillation frequency at the marginal state towards the diffusion rate associated with the driving mechanism for the instability allowing a more effective release of the available energy. Jesus College, Oxford, England.

80:4144 Boyce, F. M., 1980. Comments on 'Rotating hy-

draulics in deep-water channel flow' by Lars Rydberg. Tellus, 32(1): 90-92. Applied Research Division, National Water Research Institute, Canada Centre for Inland Waters, P.O. Box 5050, Burlington, Ontario, Canada L7R 4A6.


80:4145 Carey, V. P., Benjamin Gebhart and J. C. Mollen-

dorf, 1980. Buoyancy force reversals in vertical natural convection flows in cold water. J. Fluid Mech., 97(2): 279-297.

A study of laminar buoyancy-induced flows caused by thermal transport between a vertical isothermal surface in cold fresh and saline water shows that heat transfer at the surface decreases as convective inversion is approached. This calculated surface heat transfer is in good agreement with that inferred from experiments of ice melting rates. Department of Mechanical Engineering, State University of New York at Buffalo, Amherst, N.Y. 14260, U.S.A. (mcs)

deep-water channel flow. Tellus, 32(1): 77- 89.

For the problem of rotating, geostrophically balanced deep-water flow between basins, the flow is assumed to be 'locally critical, a condition which freezes the interface height relative to an arbitrary bottom profile . . . providing a perfect blocking of downstream information.' The present theory provides a criterion for the upstream interior interface height and allows for frictional effects. Numerical solutions for flow structure across the channel are in reasonable agreement with observations in the Bornholm Strait and Faeroe Bank Channel. Department of Oceanography, Universi- ty of Gothenburg, P.O. Box 4038, S-40040 Gothen- burg, Sweden. (fcs)

80:4146 Chatwin, P. C. and P. J. Sullivan, 1980. Some tur-

bulent diffusion invariants. J. Fluid Mech., 97(2): 405-416.

It is shown that for a cloud of contaminant con- taining a fixed quantity of material certain properties are invariant. These properties are derived; their applications for studies of steady plumes and the relationship of the ensemble mean concentration with the distance-neighbor function are discussed. Department of Applied Mathematics and Theoretical Physics, University of Liverpool, U.K. (mcs)

80:4149 Sachdev, P. L., 1980. Exact, self-similar, time-

dependent free surface flows under gravity. J. Fluid Mech., 96(4): 797-802.

A class of exact, self-similar, time-dependent solutions describing free surface flows under gravity is found which extends the self-propagating class of solutions discovered earlier by Freeman (1972) to those which decay with time. Department of Applied Mathematics, Indian Institute of Science, Bangalore 560012, India.

80:4147 Hill, R. J., 1980. Solution of Howells' model of

the scalar spectrum and comparison with experiment. J. Fluid Mech., 96(4): 705-722.

Howells' model for isotropic turbulent flow is simplified using a restriction to large Peclet number and statistically stationary turbulence at high wavenumbers, and is generalized by in- troducing Batchelor's constant as a free parameter. Applying the resulting model to data from the atmospheric surface layer, ocean, and liquid mer- cury, it is found that the model, which is applicable for arbitrary Prandtl number (Pr), does not compare well with data for large and inter- mediate Pr at wavenumbers higher than those in the inertial-convective range. Wave Propagation Laboratory, Environmental Research Labora- tories, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Ad- ministration, Boulder, Colo. 80302, U.S.A.

80:4148 Rydberg, Lars, 1980. Rotating hydraulics in

20. Miscel laneous

80:4150 Anderson, F. E., 1980. The variation in sus-

pended sediment and water properties in the flood-water front traversing the tidal fiat. Estuaries, 3(1): 28-37.

Measurements were made on twenty-four con- secutive tides. The flood-front temperature increased with flooding on warm sunny days, and decreased during cloudy days or at night. Flood- front salinities increased progressively across the intertidal zone, perhaps due to mixing and in- terstitial waters. The particulate matter concentration and texture depended on the interaction of wavelets and bottom slope which caused varying amounts of resuspension of fecal pellets. Jackson Estuarine Laboratory, University of New Hampshire, Durham, N.H. 03824, U.S.A. (mjj)

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