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AHook Style 1

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Style #: Style X Style Desc: COLOR BLOCKED DRESS Brand: X Season / Year: HOLIDAY 2013 Primary Usage Desc: SOLID PONTE Agent: X Fit Sheet Stage: PPS - In Work Primary Usage Content: 83% Polyester, Viscose 14%, Elastane-C 3% Factory: X Size Class: MISSY Primary Usage V. Quality: X TD: AHOOK Active Size Range: 0-16 Fabric Range: X Wet Process: No Dry Process: No Group Delivery: X Front Back Style Comments PPS APPROVED FOR PRODUCTION AH 12/7/13 Construction Details TRIMMING CUTTING FUSING ALL SHELL/ BODY SEAMS NECKLINE ARMHOLE & SLEEVE CB VENT ZIPPER SETTING BODY HEM [1] Hook & Eye. [1] Invisible Zipper. Interling 8509. Tape TP5000: 1yd +20% wastage, for size 8. Hanger Loops: 1yd per garment. Fully Lined w/ Tricot ARC400 Cut all pieces on straight grain. Cut one size one way. TP5000: @ Neckline. 8509: Zipper Stay & CB Vent. CB Seam, Side Seam & Shoulder Seam: 1/2” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open. Front & Back Princess Seams: 3/8” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open. All Horizontal Seams: 3/8” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open. 1/4” SA., Clean finish w/ lining, backstitch & add TP5000 to prevent stretching. *Due to the see through nature of the lining DO NOT put any fusing on the lining @ the neckline. Just staystitch the lining before setting it to self to prevent stretching of the lining. 1 PC Sleeve. Armhole: 3/8” SA, Merrow SA closed w/ lining & press SA to sleeve. Sleeve Inseam: 1/2” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open. Sleeve Hem: Join top layer of cuff (folded @ bottom edge) to sleeve using 3/8” SA, press all SA to cuff & close w/ crackstitch. See POM for cuff height. Left over right. Clean finish right side w/ lining & backstitch. Fuse left side of vent, bend back & clean finish w/ lining. Tack left vent bendback edge to self at hem merrow edge to hold. DO NOT miter corner. DO NOT put ‘X’ stitch at bottom of vent for shipping. Diagonal SNTS @ top of vent opening (height of angle 1”). Invisible zipper at CB. Close SA w/ lining. Order zipper length to be 1” longer than finished zipper opening length. Add Hook & Eye to top of zipper opening. Stitch across bottom of zipper opening to secure. 1 1/2” Bendback, Merrow & Blindstitch.
Transcript
Page 1: AHook Style 1

Style #: Style X Style Desc: COLOR BLOCKED DRESS Brand: XSeason / Year: HOLIDAY 2013 Primary Usage Desc: SOLID PONTE Agent: X

Fit Sheet Stage: PPS - In Work Primary Usage Content: 83% Polyester,Viscose 14%, Elastane-C 3%

Factory: X

Size Class: MISSY Primary Usage V. Quality: X TD: AHOOKActive Size Range: 0-16 Fabric Range: X Wet Process: No Dry Process: NoGroup Delivery: X

Front Back Style Comments

PPS APPROVED FOR PRODUCTION AH 12/7/13

Construction Details

TRIMMING

CUTTING

FUSING

ALL SHELL/BODY SEAMS

NECKLINE

ARMHOLE &SLEEVE

CB VENT

ZIPPER SETTING

BODY HEM

[1] Hook & Eye.[1] Invisible Zipper.Interling 8509.Tape TP5000: 1yd +20% wastage, for size 8.Hanger Loops: 1yd per garment.Fully Lined w/ Tricot ARC400Cut all pieces on straight grain.Cut one size one way.

TP5000: @ Neckline.8509: Zipper Stay & CB Vent.CB Seam, Side Seam & Shoulder Seam: 1/2” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open.

Front & Back Princess Seams: 3/8” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open.

All Horizontal Seams: 3/8” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open.1/4” SA., Clean �nish w/ lining, backstitch & add TP5000 to prevent stretching.*Due to the see through nature of the lining DO NOT put any fusing on the lining @ the neckline. Just staystitchthe lining before setting it to self to prevent stretching of the lining.1 PC Sleeve.Armhole: 3/8” SA, Merrow SA closed w/ lining & press SA to sleeve. Sleeve Inseam: 1/2” SA, Chainstitch, Merrow & Press SA Open.Sleeve Hem: Join top layer of cu� (folded @ bottom edge) to sleeve using 3/8” SA, press all SA to cu� & close w/ crackstitch.See POM for cu� height.Left over right. Clean �nish right side w/ lining & backstitch. Fuse left side of vent, bend back & clean �nish w/ lining. Tack left vent bendback edge to self at hem merrow edge to hold. DO NOT miter corner. DO NOT put ‘X’ stitch at bottom of vent for shipping.Diagonal SNTS @ top of vent opening (height of angle 1”).Invisible zipper at CB.Close SA w/ lining.Order zipper length to be 1” longer than �nished zipper opening length.Add Hook & Eye to top of zipper opening.Stitch across bottom of zipper opening to secure.1 1/2” Bendback, Merrow & Blindstitch.

Page 2: AHook Style 1

Style #: Style X Style Desc: COLOR BLOCKED DRESS Brand: XSeason / Year: HOLIDAY 2013 Primary Usage Desc: SOLID PONTE Agent: X

Fit Sheet Stage: PPS - In Work Primary Usage Content: 83% Polyester,Viscose 14%, Elastane-C 3%

Factory: X

Size Class: MISSY Primary Usage V. Quality: X TD: AHOOKActive Size Range: 0-16 Fabric Range: X Wet Process: No Dry Process: NoGroup Delivery: X

Construction Details

LINING:FULLY LINED

TOPSTITCHING

LABEL PLACEMENT

HANGER LOOPS

PRESSING

Lining to mirror self except that the lining is to have only ONE front and ONE back chest seam and NO drop waist seam.Tack lining to self @ self drop waist seam at side seams and front princess seams.3/8” SA., Safetystitch.Clean �nish lining w/ self SA @ armhole, center back zipper setting and center back vent.Lining Hem: 1/2” double turnback w/ SNTS. Lining hem must be 1” shorter than self & at least 1” bigger in circumference than self.9-10 SPI.Diagonal SNTS @ top of vent opening (height of angle 1”). Main Label: No/Lip. Set to wearer’s right side, 1” away from CB seam, 3/4” below neckline. Stitch label at sides.Stretch Label: Stitch to bottom of Main Label.Size/Country of Origin: Stitch to bottom of Stretch Label.Care Label: At wearer’s right side seam, 4” below armhole.Fabric Content: 1/4” below Care Label.8 1/2” on double (�nished length). Set inside to lining, 1” below armhole at side seams. Add tack inside to holdlining to self at hanger loop setting. DO NOT over press to avoid shine and seam impression.

Page 3: AHook Style 1

Style #: Style X Style Desc: COLOR BLOCKED DRESS Brand: XSeason / Year: HOLIDAY 2013 Primary Usage Desc: SOLID PONTE Agent: X

Fit Sheet Stage: PPS - In Work Primary Usage Content: 83% Polyester,Viscose 14%, Elastane-C 3%

Factory: X

Size Class: MISSY Primary Usage V. Quality: X TD: AHOOK

Active Size Range: 0-16 Fabric Range: X

Group Delivery: X

Fitting Pitures

Wet Process: No Dry Process: No

Page 4: AHook Style 1

Style #: Style X Style Desc: COLOR BLOCKED DRESS Brand: XSeason / Year: HOLIDAY 2013 Primary Usage Desc: SOLID PONTE Agent: X

Fit Sheet Stage: PPS - In Work Primary Usage Content: 83% Polyester,Viscose 14%, Elastane-C 3%

Factory: X

Size Class: MISSY Primary Usage V. Quality: X TD: AHOOK

Active Size Range: 0-16 Fabric Range: X

Group Delivery: X

Fitting Comments

Wet Process: No Dry Process: No

Fit Date: 12/7/13Fit on Model X by Viktoria & Alexis

PPS is approved for production w/ the following comments:

Construction Comments:1. Ok to keep one front and one back horizontal chest seams on lining as sample, construction details have been revised.2. Must use poly. mesh zipper as requested in trim pages instead of poly. nylon zipper as was used on sample.3. Revise cu� setting to have the seam allowance (hidden) pressed to cu� and closed with crackstitch instead of having the seam allowance exposed and pressed up as sample. Please advise if anything is unclear.4. Added backstitch to neckline to construction details to be as per sample. 5. Add tacks inside to hold lining to self at drop waist seam at side seams and front princess seams, construction details have been revised.6. Must keep CB vent bendback the same width (1 1/2”) at top and bottom, note that vent bendback width on sample is 1 5/8” at top and 1 1/2” at bottom.

Spec/Fit/Pattern Comments: 1. Note the biggest problems with �t were: *Sleeve had too much fullness at front and was too �at at back. *Back bottom horizontal across back seam needed to be picked up @ armhole.2. See attached diagram for how to adjust your pattern to improve above listed �t problems.3. The following specs are revised based on diagram corrections:*Across-back is revised to 15 1/2” instead of 15 1/8“ as sample.*Bicep is revised to 12 1/2” instead of 12 1/4“ as sample.*Sleeve opening is revised to 10 1/2” instead of 10 1/4“ as sample4. Note that high hip has been revised to be measured 3 point at 3” below drop waist seam. Also note that this was how/where sample was measured and spec was revised to be as per sample.5. Note that low hip has been revised to be measured 3 point at 7” below drop waist seam. Also note that this was how/where sample was measured and spec was revised to be as per sample. 6. The following specs were revised to be as per sample:*Across-shoulder revised to 15 3/4”.*Across-front revised to 13 1/4”. *Bust revised to 37 3/4” .*Natural waist revised to 35 1/2”.*Sweep revise to 41”. *Armhole revised to 18 1/2”.

Thank You,Alexis

Page 5: AHook Style 1

Style #: Style X Style Desc: COLOR BLOCKED DRESS Brand: XSeason / Year: HOLIDAY 2013 Primary Usage Desc: SOLID PONTE Agent: X

Fit Sheet Stage: PPS - In Work Primary Usage Content: 83% Polyester,Viscose 14%, Elastane-C 3%

Factory: X

Size Class: MISSY Primary Usage V. Quality: X TD: AHOOK

Active Size Range: 0-16 Fabric Range: X

Group Delivery: X

Diagram

Wet Process: No Dry Process: No

SS FRTBK

NOTE SLV HAD TOO MUCH FULLNESS @ FRT & WAS TOO FLAT @ BK

0

0 0

0

00

3/16”

3/16”

3/16”3/16”

1/4”

1/4”

1/4”

1/4”

Front

Back

FRTBK


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