42
Costa Blanca Alicante Spain
Cos
ta B
lanc
aAlic
ante
Spai
n
340
340
340
330
330
330
332
430
344
340
301
332
PARQUE NATURAL LAGUNASDE LA MATA Y TORREVIEJA
PARQUE NATURAL SALINASDE SANTA POLA
PARQUE NATURALDE CARRASCAL
DE LA FONT ROJA
PARQUENATURALEL FONDO
Emb.de Elche
Emb. dela Pedrera
Lagunade Salinas
R
Río
Vina
lopó
Emb.de Elda
RÍO
SEGURA
Agost
El Altet
Salinas
Biar
Catral
Tibi
Bus
Bañeres
Cañada
Benejama
BacarotHondón delas Nieves
La Romana
Benijófar
Torre Horadada
Cabo Roig
Dehesa de Campoamor
San Miguelde Salinas
Santa
Els Almerades
Monfortedel Cid
San Vicentedel Raspeig
S
Muchamiel
Jijona
Novelda
Aspe
Elche
Santa Pola
PetrerElda
Sax
VillenaIbi
Castalla
Monóvar
Pinoso
Orihuela
Almoradí
Dolores
Rojales
Guardamardel Segura
Alcoy
Torrevieja
Crevillente
C
M
Yecla
Caudete
San Javier
San Pedro del Pinatar
Albatera
Callosa de Segura
Onil
Albaida
Canals
OntenienteAlmansa
Pilar dela Horadada
Fortuna
Cox
ALIC
MURCIA
Cabo d
MarMenor
M
Isla Plao Nueva Ta
G
Ali
Cala de la Mata
Cala Cerrada
Cala Capitán
Cala del Salaré
Sierra Mariola
Sierradel Cid
1261
Carche1371
VALENCIA 75 kmA
LBA
CE
TE
73
kmA
LBA
CE
TE
112
km
CARTAGENA 36 km
ALM
ER
ÍA 2
10 k
m
332
A-7
332
PARQUE NATURALPENYAL D'IFAC
PARQUE NATURALDEL MONTGÓ
PARQUE NATURAL DE MARJALDE PEGO-OLIVA
Emb. deBeniarrés
Río
Serpis
Guadalest
Benasau
Torremanzanas
Moraira
Gatade Gorgos
Ondara
sot
Orba
Relleu
Castell de Castells
Puerto Blanco
Luis Campomanes
Les Basetes
Faz
Albir
Benifallim
Benialí
Alcalá de la JovadaVall de Ebo
Benichembla Benidoleig
San Juan de Alicante
El Campello
a
Callosade Ensarriá
Altea
Benidorm
L'Alfàs del Pi
Cocentaina
Muro de Alcoy
Villajoyosa
Calpe
Benisa
Denia
Jávea
Teulada
Pego
Pedreguer
Oliva
ANTE
Cabo de la Nao
Cabo de San Antonio
Punta de Moraira
de Santa Pola
C
O
S
T
A
B
LA
N
C
A
M A R
E D I T E R R Á N E O
ana Tabarca
Playa de San Juan
Playa Muchavista
Playa de Paradís
Playa de Levante
Playa de Poniente
Playa del Albir
Playa de Levante
Playa El Arenal
Golfo
de
cante
S i e r r a d e A i t a n a
Sierra de BérniaAitana1558
Montgó753
P
P
N
CARTOGRAFÍA: GCAR, S.L. Cardenal Silíceo, 35Tel. 914167341 - 28002 MADRID - AÑO 1999
0 10 20 Km5
VALENCIA 75 km
HighwayFreewayNational Road“A” Road“B” RoadLocal RoadRailwayParadorShrine/MonasteryCastleMonumentNature ReserveGolf CourseCamp siteMarinaLighthouseAirport
France
United Kingdom
Ireland
Morocco
Madrid
Paris
London
Dublin
Lisbon
Rabat
Contents
Introduction 1Your stay on the Costa Blanca 4Coastal itineraries
From Alicante to Denia 6From Alicante to Pilar de la Horadada 13
Inland itinerariesThe Vinalopó Castles 16The Alcoy Mountains 18From Elche to Orihuela 20
City visit 23City Plan 24
Leisure and spectaclesSports 29Leisure and Theme Parks 30Culture 31Nightlife 31Festivals & Folklore 32Shopping & Handicrafts 33Trade Fairs and Exhibitions 34Local cuisine 34
Useful addresses andmap of Alicante Province 36
Spain
CostaBlanca
Canary Islands
Portugal
CeutaMelilla
1
IntroductionAlicante is the Valencian Region’ssouthernmost province, its entirelength of shoreline (the CostaBlanca or, literally, White Coast)caressed by the Mediterranean’ssoothing sea breeze. Warm sandybeaches and curving dunes lieinterspersed between sheerstretches of cliff and rugged coast,shading the local geography inhues of white, blue, ochre andgreen. This is one of Spain’s leadingtourist Meccas, and thanks to itsscenery, facilities, the quality of its
towns and warm friendliness of itspeople, Alicante is host all yearround to intense tourist activity,attending to visitors’ needs withpleasing efficiency.
With close on one and a halfmillion inhabitants, it ranksamongst Spain’s most heavilypopulated provinces. One out ofevery five Alicantinos lives in theprovincial capital of Alicante, a
demographic detail which indicatesthat the population is fairly evenlydistributed throughout the variousdistricts. Nonetheless, there tendsto be a greater concentration inthose localities that witnessed theindustrial boom and spectacularrise in tourist demand which, in the60s and 70s, led to rapid economicgrowth and the ensuing influx ofjob-seeking immigrants from theSpanish hinterland.
Along the coast, from Deniasouthwards to Pilar de laHoradada, and through the
winding folds of its inland reaches,from Villena to Orihuela, Alicante’s5,900 square kilometres (2,279 sq.miles; 1.16% of Spain’s totalsurface area) embrace atopography of sharp contrasts, duenot only to the physical diversitybetween mountainous uplandsand coastal flats, but also to thedifferences between the verdant
Denia
2
lushness of some areas and othersthat are so arid as to be almostdesert-like. The northern andcentral parts are traversed bysoaring mountain ranges,marching in monumental fashionto the very edge of the sea,terminating in Capes La Nao andSan Antonio. Against this, the southern tip of the province, an area made up of flats and hillcountry irrigated by the waters of the River Segura, fringes thesea in a series of dunes and low bluffs.
Alicante, a region manifestlyMediterranean in nature, basking(the coast particularly) in brightsunlight throughout the year andblessed with an averagetemperature of 17.6°C (63.7°F), hasa number of towns and cities inwhich there are high-tech factories-specialising in footwear, textilesand clothing, turrón (the localalmond-based, nougat-likesweetmeat, particularly popular at
Christmas time), toys and ice-cream- as well as modern hotels,holiday accommodation andspacious residential estates wheremany a foreign resident hasestablished a second home. Owingto the area’s cosmopolitancomposition, conversations inEnglish, French, German or Italiancan be frequently heard in coastaldistricts, alongside Castilian Spanishand Valencian (which closelyresembles Catalan), the two officiallanguages spoken by the localpopulation.
In bygone days, the presence ofIberians, Phoenicians, Greeks andRomans moulded the region’sunique character, key elements ofwhich have been subsequentlysalvaged thanks to the discovery of valuable archaeological finds
Jávea
Guadalest. Belfry
and cultural remains. Harking backto these ancient times are precioustreasures worked in gold,enigmatic sculptures such as theDama de Elche (Lady of Elche) anda local preference for palm groves.At a later date, Alicante, like othermainland regions, lived underMoorish rule until the area’sannexation by the Kingdom ofValencia in the 14th century. Localjurisdictional privileges, ways andcustoms were lost at the beginningof the 18th century following theintroduction of the new centralistregime imposed by the Spanishmonarchy. At present, Alicantelooks ahead to a future ofinnovation in both the touristtrade and technology, without inany way sacrificing or forfeiting itsroots in its traditional industrialactivities and farming.
Your stay on the Costa
Blanca
One can travel to the province ofAlicante by rail, road and air,though its strategic coastalposition makes it possible to dockat any of its harbours and use therailway network that criss-crossesthe region.
By air: El Altet Airport, situatedapproximately 12 kilometres southof the city of Alicante, is the CostaBlanca’s main airport, handlingscheduled and charter flights fromall leading Spanish and Europeancities. While the busiest domesticlinks are those with Madrid,Barcelona, Mallorca, Las Palmas,Tenerife, Seville, Malaga andBilbao, European flights tend toconcentrate on destinations such
4
Alicante harbour
5
as London, Paris, Brussels,Frankfurt and Amsterdam, amongothers.
By road: the Madrid-Albacete-Alicante motorway is the principalroute to Alicante from points inthe country’s interior. From thenorth, the easiest approach is viaValencia along the MediterraneanHighway (A-7), which links theregion with the heart of Europeand is a firm favourite withBenidorm-bound coach services.Best access from the Province of Murcia to the south is via the N-340. There is a fourth majorroad, the N-332 motorway, whichtakes in towns and villages lyingalong the coast.
By sea: while the Port of Alicanteberths a good number ofMediterranean cruise liners, aregular ferry service plies betweenDenia, in the north of the province,and the Balearic Isles. Numerousmarinas and yacht basins act as aport of call for tourists sailingaboard their own craft.
By rail: trains from the Renfe(Spanish Rail) station in Alicanteconnect up with points aroundSpain and the rest of Europe.There is a daily scheduled serviceto Madrid and Barcelona. Withinthe province, many other townsand cities, such as Elche, Villenaand Orihuela are connected byrail. Tourists are recommendedto take the Limón Exprés
(Lemon Express), while for theyounger set there is theTrensnochador, a way of goingdiscothèque-hopping withoutrunning the risk of a trafficaccident.
Alicante boasts the mostcomprehensive and best equippednetwork of hotel and holidayaccommodation in the entireValencian Region. There are 243hotels covering a wide range ofcategories, with a bed-capacityclose on 55,000. Lodgingavailability varies very little fromhigh to low season, since touristresorts such as Benidorm havebecome year-round vacationcentres, and the city of Alicanteitself is a privileged incentive-scheme, conference andconvention venue. In addition,there is also a very varied choice ofcamp sites and holiday flats,catering for some 25,000 and64,000 visitors respectively. Asregards places to eat out, thereare more than enough to satisfyevery kind of person and pocket,with something like 3,200restaurants in all.
Visiting times should always bechecked with the local TouristOffices.
6
Coastal itineraries
The Costa Blanca has some 160kilometres (just under 100 miles) ofcoastline, where sea and scenerycan be enjoyed in many differentyet complementary ways. To thoseeager to sunbathe and swim insafe surroundings, the Alicantecoast holds out the promise oflong sandy beaches. Yet, it alsoaffords the possibility ofdiscovering incredible rocky inlets
ideal for scuba-diving, pine-covered dunes, pebbled coves andan infinite number of creeks wheresmall vessels can be anchored andunforgettable moments shared.
There are two basic seaboarditineraries, one covering thenorthern stretch of coast from thecity of Alicante to Denia, a townlying on the boundary withValencia province, and the otherrunning south of Alicante as far as
Pilar de la Horadada, borderingMurcia and the lagoon known asthe Mar Menor.
From Alicante to Denia
This route, a distance ofapproximately 100 kilometres (62miles), can be comfortably coveredin a single day. However, in orderto be able to fully enjoy areasendowed with undeniable scenicbeauty, the excursion should bedivided into several stages, so as to
allow for longer visits to townssuch as Benidorm, Altea, Calpe,Jávea and Denia. Road travel is noproblem since there is the twinoption of the A-7 toll-motorway orthe N-332 national road, except forcertain stretches where local roadsskirt the coast. Depending on thetime available, either of these tworoutes can be chosen.
San Juan Beach
7
Lying at a distance of eightkilometres to the north of the cityof Alicante, San Juan de Alicanteis the first town reached whensetting out on a sightseeing trip.Situated in the midst of theAlicante countryside, the towncombines dry farming with goodtourist services and facilities, thanks to a fine beach thatstretches for over 7 kilometres. Its17th-century parish church and theCalvario, Santa Ana and San Roquechapels make up its monumental
heritage. The local religiousbuilding that attracts most visitorsis the Santa Faz Monastery,which comes within the Alicantemunicipal district. On the secondThursday after Easter, thousands ofAlicantinos take part in the annualpilgrimage outing (romería) tovenerate the relic housed here; this,tradition has it, is the original veilused by Veronica to wipe Christ’sbrow on the ascent to Calvary.
Santa Faz Monastery. Partida deSanta Faz. 96 526 49 12Continuing on, one comes to El Campello, a town situated 12 kilometres (7 1/2 miles) fromthe provincial capital on a low rise,from which beaches of alldescriptions can be seen stretchingaway for a good 23 kilometres. Itslandmark is a watchtower, built inthe Fisherman’s Quarter in 1554, toalert the townsfolk to imminentattack by marauding pirates. In theLa Illeta area, archaeological
remains have been foundbelonging to the Iberian andGreek cultures. In the 18th century,the town had its own shipbuildingyards which served to foster itsseafaring vocation. The mainbeach is called Muchavista, butone can equally choose to go for aswim in a rock cove, at La Cova delLlop Marí and Cala del Morro
El Campello yacht basin
8
Blanc. The natural setting of Llomade Reixes is situated hereabouts.The Alicante artist, Arcadio Blasco,has created some spectacularsculptures, one in the sea and theother on shore.
The arid landscape of the Alicantecountryside gradually disappearsas one enters the Marina Baixa orBaja (Lower Marina) district. Fromthe district capital, Villajoyosa (La Vila Joiosa) -abbreviated bythe locals to “La Vila”- one beginsto discern the summits of theAitana and Puig Campana Ranges,the geological barrier that defendsthis area from the cold blasts ofthe north wind and makes itpossible for wonderfully mildtemperatures to be enjoyedthroughout the year. Just 32kilometres (19 miles) fromAlicante, this is a city with a long
tradition of seafaring andvoyaging, as well as a chocolate-making industry of renown. Itswalled Old Quarter, bordering theRiver Amadorio, possesses aneyecatching seaside frontage,formed by houses purposelypainted in bright colours so as tobe easily visible to sailors out atsea. The Gothic-style parish churchhouses an interesting Baroqueretable. La Vila has three and ahalf kilometres of beach, thenearest being Centro and Paradísbeaches. Others with equallytranslucent waters are the Torres(site of Hercules’ funeral tower,also known as Sant Josep), RacóConill, Bol Nou and Caletabeaches.
The next stage brings the travellerto Benidorm, a leisure andvacation city with the capacity tocope adequately with 300,000tourists over the peak-seasonperiod. Six out of every ten visitorsto the Valencian Region opt forBenidorm, and eight out of everyten who choose to stay in theprovince of Alicante lodge inBenidorm, in order to take fulladvantage of its irresistiblepromise of sun and sand. At adistance of 41 kilometres (25 miles)from Alicante, this is the CostaBlanca’s major tourist resort. Itstwo main beaches, Levante andPoniente (named after the
Villajoyosa. Sidewalk café
9
prevailing winds), offer quality services, limpid water and finesands difficult to find elsewhere.
The city’s Old Quarter sits astridethe promontory that separates thetwo beaches. The Cerro Canfaliheadland, veined by narrow lanesand alleys, converges in the light-filled Balcón del Mediterráneobelvedere, whitewashed anddecorated with blue tiles, anornamental motif repeated alongthe balustrade that gracesstretches of the city’s seafront. Thistiny Old Quarter corresponds tothe original fishing village and ispresided over by the blue-tileddomed roof of San Jaime ParishChurch (St. James’), constructed in
the 18th century. In the areaaround the traditional city centreare the main shopping streets,where fashion items, handicraftsand souvenirs can be purchased.
Occupying a large area in themiddle of the town is L’AigüeraPark, designed along Neoclassicallines by the architect, RicardoBofill. In addition to this, there isample opportunity for a quietstroll along the five-kilometreexpanse of beachside promenade,with beachgoers and sports-loversenjoying themselves at the water’sedge. Similarly, the city’s wideavenues, flanked on either side bytall modern hotel buildings,provide yet further possibilities fora leisurely walk. Out in the centreof the bay, Benidorm Isle can bevisited by taking any of the boatsthat leave from the harbour.According to local folklore, thisislet represents the gigantic blockof rock that is missing from thesummit of nearby Mt. PuigCampana. During one ofCharlemagne’s warlike sorties, theintrepid Roland lopped off themountain top with the blade of hissword, sending the missing piecethundering down the side of themountain into the sea, and socausing it to be transformed intothe small island outcrop.
Benidorm. The Balcón delMediterráneo belvedere
10
From Benidorm onwards, thescenery becomes spectacularlybeautiful. Towering seasidemountain ranges, dizzy cliffs,exquisitely tended fields, dazzlingbeaches and whitewashed villagesmake the Marina Baixa district atrue paradise. After reachingL’Alfàs del Pi, a town which,though somewhat removed fromthe sea, lays claim to an importanttourist colony at Albir beach,where the Sierra Helada (SerraGelada) Range terminates, theroute then carries on to Altea,some 51 kilometres (31 miles) fromAlicante. The town is situated on ahill which, at its highest point, istopped by the belfry and glazedblue-tiled domes of the ParishChurch of La Virgen del Consuelo(Our Lady of Solace). Whenarriving by road, the Old Quarterappears silhouetted against the
monumental backdrop of theSierra Bernia Range, forming astunning panoramic view. Theclimb up to the church lies alongsteep narrow cobbled lanes, pastsmall miradores (look-out points)and glorietas (circularintersections). A frequent featureof this part of the old town are theartists’ studios and handicraftshops. Down below in the lowertown is the Rey Jaime I shoppingstreet, the busy seafrontpromenade and six kilometres ofbeach, where shingled stretchesalternate with half-hidden covesand cliffs. The local beaches go bythe names of La Roda, Cap Blanc,Cap Negret and L’Olla.
After taking the Mascarat tunnelsthrough the Sierra Bernia Range,the traveller enters the district ofMarina Alta (Upper Marina), to
L’Alfàs del Pi. Sierra Helada Range
11
be received there by the imposingsight of the Gibraltar-like Peñón deIfach Rock, rising from the sea anddefying the nearby crags with its332 metres (1,076 feet). The serriedranks of mountains descending intiers towards the coast are coveredwith vineyards. The typical countryhouse in these parts, the so-calledriu-rau, has an arcaded porchwhere the grapes are left in thesun to dry and turn into raisins.Calpe (Calp), the town to whichthe Peñón belongs, lies some 62kilometres (38 miles) fromAlicante. Its principal sights are theMudéjar Gothic-style 15th-centuryParish Church of La Virgen de lasNieves (Our Lady of the Snows),several sections or spandrels of theold medieval town wall and alarge fortified tower. At the footof the Peñón, the summit of whichcan be visited in organised groups,are the Baños de la Reina (literally,Queen’s Baths), the site of whatwas once a Roman “factory” forsalting and drying fish. The townhas some 11 kilometres of
seashore, ranging from fine sandystrands, such as the Levante andArenal beaches, to picturesquecoves, such as La Manzanera andLes Urques.
After a superbly scenic drive on adistrict road that snakes along thecorniche, the route brings one tothe sheltered bay of Moraira, asmall town within the Teuladamunicipal district, its portprotected by the twin arms of theCap Blanc and Punta de Morairaheadlands. The seaside here boastseight kilometres of good beacheswith boulders and rocks. Thewidest and most readily accessibleof these is the centrally situated LaAmpolla Beach. A solid tower,constructed at the behest of KingPhilip II by an Italian, oneAntonelli, has been keeping watchover this stretch of coast forcenturies. Some ten kilometresinland is Teulada, ringed byvineyards in which the muscatel
Moraira. Cove
12
grape is grown. Its Santa CatalinaChurch, Late Gothic in style, is thelocal tourist sight par excellence.
The route continues on districtroads in the direction of Jávea(Xàbia). Time permitting, thetraveller can make a side-trip tothe Cabo de la Nao (Cape Nao)lighthouse to enjoy the fine viewthere. This is the easternmost pointof the Valencian Region’sshoreline, dividing off the Bay ofAlicante from that of Valencia.Those not wishing to go out to thelighthouse can proceed directly toJávea, situated 92 kilometres (57 miles) from Alicante and twokilometres from the sea. While it
gradually grew in the shelter of itsGothic-style San Bartoloméfortress-church (St.Bartholomew’s), the city erectedseveral watchtowers to spot theapproach of foreign vessels.Preserved in its Old Quarter arebeautiful town houses, decoratedwith wrought-iron grilles andlintels made of “tosca”, the typicallocal stone. Down in the town’ssizeable port area, the modernChurch of La Virgen del Loreto(Our Lady of Loreto) evokes thekeel of a ship. Scattered along thetown’s 20 kilometres of coast,there are beaches of every kind:fine sand at El Arenal, pine woods,rock and scuba-diving atGranadella, tiny coves at Portichol,and so on.Castle and ArchaeologicalMuseum. Primicias, 1
96 579 10 98
The route ends in Denia, districtcapital of La Marina Alta, lying at adistance of 100 kilometres (62miles) from Alicante. One arrivesvia an extremely picturesque localroad that passes between CapeSan Antonio and the impressivemass of Mt. Montgó (rising to aheight of 753 metres/2,470 feet). Intheir time, the Romans dedicatedthis cosmopolitan tourist city tothe goddess Diana and turned itinto a thriving port. Thesehistorical origins are eloquentlyrecalled in the archaeologicalmuseum, housed in the well-preserved Moorish castle atop a
Denia Beach
13
small hill. Denia’s 20-kilometrecoastline features fine sand to thenorth (Les Marines) and rock andcliff-face to the south (Les Rotes).Castle and ArchaeologicalMuseum. 96 642 06 56
From Alicante to Pilar de la Horadada
Along its almost 60 kilometres ofshoreline, the province’s southcoast features a good number oftourist resorts which, in recentyears, have developed a widerange of services and leisurefacilities. The grandeur of theCosta Blanca’s northern section ishere transformed into analtogether flatter landscape, withlow hills and wide sweeps of sand.The route is easy to follow since it keeps to the line traced by the N-332.
The first town of importance isSanta Pola, 20 kilometres (12 1/2miles) from Alicante city centre. Inremote times it acted as port forthe neighbouring city of Elche (14kilometres off), beginnings thatdestined it to be the base for oneof the biggest fishing fleets inMediterranean waters. A salted-fish factory, dating back to the 4thcentury B.C., illustrates that past.This same activity continues to thisday, though tourism and salt
extraction comprise the area’sother economic pillars. An aspectof special interest are the salt-pans,now an officially declared NatureReserve. Over 2,500 hectares (6,000acres) of wetlands, dominated bythe half-ruined Moorish TamaritTower visible from the road, serveas a very special haven forflamingos and other species ofbirdlife. In the town centre, SantaPola has a sizeable castle, built onthe orders of Philip II to combatraids by Barbary pirates. Housedwithin the castle walls is a museumspecialising in the ocean, theseabed and local archaeology. Citylife tends to focus on the seafrontpromenade and harbour, fromwhich boats (the so-calledgolondrinas, named after the seaswallow or tern) can be taken tothe Isle of Tabarca. Close on twokilometres long and 400 metreswide, the island is inhabitedthroughout the year. For lovers ofthe sea, it represents a uniquemarine reserve, and for the curious
Santa Pola. Watchtower
14
traveller there is a walled sectionwhich Charles III repopulated withGenoese.Archaeological and FishingMuseum. Plaza del Castillo, 1.
96 669 15 32
The next holiday resort to whichthe traveller comes is Guardamardel Segura, a town situated at themouth of the river of the samename. Located 35 kilometres (21miles) from Alicante, it lies amidsta delightful natural setting of pine,dune, woodland and sand, withwide, easily accessible beaches. Theold town is perched on a hill,skirted by the River Segura, and ishome to a castle and othervestiges that bear testimony toanother age when it was a Greekport. There are Iberian remains,particularly the Dama deGuardamar (Lady of Guardamar)unearthed at the Cabezo Lucero site, and the ruins of the Moorish
mosques of the Caliphal rábita(religious/fortified Moorish outpostdelimiting the border with theChristians). The Parque de lasDunas Reina Sofía (Queen SophiaDunes Park), with an area of morethan 70,000 square metres (a littleunder 17 1/2 acres), affords thechance of learning aboutnumerous examples of plant life -terrestrial and aquatic- whileenjoying the refreshing tang ofthe sea breeze.Archaeological and EthnologicalMuseum. Casa de la Cultura.Colón, 46 96 572 86 10
Following the N-332, one comes tothe enormous salt-pans of LaMata-Torrevieja, a series ofspacious residential estates and thetown centre of Torrevieja itself, atourist resort whose life revolvesaround sea and salt. The twolagoons are interconnected (theTorrevieja lagoon having a
Torrevieja saltpans
15
perimeter of 25 kilometres) and,from La Mata, they enjoy a directoutlet to the sea via the Acequiónchannel. While extraction of saltdates back to ancient times, itwitnessed an era of expansion inthe 19th century. The salt ofTorrevieja -a town lying 48kilometres (29 miles) fromAlicante- is exported to all parts ofthe world from the local port. Atthe far end of the Paseo Marítimo(seafront promenade) are thewharves where the freighters loadsalt bound for Cuba. These sameships return to the lilt of islandhabaneras (a style of Cuban song),a tradition that adds zest to theextremely popular choral musiccontest sponsored by the towneach summer.
After passing through the saltcapital, one reaches the stretch ofcoast belonging to the inlandtown of Orihuela, the districtcapital. Outlying suburbs vergingon sands and low bluffs haveserved to create tourist areas of
real quality, thereby ensuring thatthe large numbers of visitors areproperly catered for. Punta Prima,Playa Flamenca, La Zenia, CaboRoig and Dehesa de Campoamorare just some of the resorts dottedalong this southern route. Severalof these now specialise inorganising golfing holidays,combining vacation stays with thechance to play golf at some of theexcellent local courses. The smalltree-lined pasturelands in the areahave made for top-flight golfingfacilities.
The last town on this route is Pilarde la Horadada, with fourkilometres of beach and a typicalwatchtower guarding the coast. Itlies 67 kilometres (41 miles) fromAlicante and marks the southernlimit of the Costa Blanca. Itsmarket gardens produce superbfruit and vegetables for export tonumerous countries aroundEurope.
Torre de la Horadada
16
Inland itineraries
The Costa Blanca’s coastal beautyin no way detracts from thesingular charms of its inlandscenery, linked to lifestyles rootedin farming, industrial developmentand festive traditions. These areitineraries dictated by the courseof the rivers and the powerful all-pervasive presence of themountains.
The Vinalopó Castles
The towns lying farthest inland inthe province of Alicante share twofeatures: their situation along theupper and middle sections of theRiver Vinalopó and the presence ofsturdy fortresses in their towncentres, witnesses to the frontiercharacter that these lands oncehad, standing as they did on thedividing line between Castile and
the ancient Kingdom of Valencia.Already in Roman times, the VíaAugusta took advantage of theriver’s course and, even now in thismodern age, a good highwayestablishes a permanent line ofcommunication between theMediterranean coast and themeseta (table land, plateau).
The itinerary begins in Novelda,28 kilometres (17 miles) from theprovincial capital of Alicante. LaMola Castle is a legacy of theMiddle Ages, and atop apicturesque hill, the Santuario deSanta María Magdalena (MaryMagdalene Shrine) with itsGaudíesque Catalonian ArtNouveau air, is testimony to localtradition. To speak of this town isto speak of the quarrying andproduction of marble, thecultivation of saffron and thegrowing and packing of grapes.
Sax
17
Modernist (Art Nouveau) House-cum-Museum. Mayor, 24.
96 560 02 37
The next stops en route are Eldaand Petrer, twin towns separatedby a single street, the numbers onthe right belonging to one townand those on the left, to the other.They lie at a distance of 36kilometres (22 miles) from Alicanteand represent one of theprovince’s most importantindustrial hubs. With the crisis inthe esparto grass trade in the 19thcentury, alternatives were found infootwear and leatherware. Elda’sfactories are leaders in the sector,especially as regards the women’sfashion footwear segment. Thecity’s Moorish castle stands as asymbol of the border strugglebetween Moor and Christian inthese arid lands. In the OldQuarter, listed buildings alsoinclude the Casa Colorá and CasaGrande del Jardín de la Música(Music Gardens Mansionhouse).For its part, Petrer boasts one ofthe most splendid castles in theprovince, thanks to painstakingreconstruction. This is an industrialtown, which formerly came withinthe domain of the Count ofCocentaina.
The route now wends its way toSax, which is situated 48kilometres (29 miles) from Alicanteand marks the beginning of theL’Alt or Alto Vinalopó (UpperVinalopó) district. A round-arched
doorway in the main tower of Sax´s Moorish-style castle leads into thearmoury. The sightseer can alsovisit the aljibes (water cisterns) andthe various underground passagesin this castle, whose silhouette is awell-known landmark to all thosewho travel the Madrid motorway.
There are only two morestrongholds to be seen along the
remaining section of this route.The first lies in the monumentalcity and district capital of Villena,situated 59 kilometres (just under37 miles) from Alicante. La AtalayaCastle (atalaya; watchtower) is theprototype for all Castilian walledcities. Indeed, this ducal possessionwas not administrativelyincorporated into AlicanteProvince until midway through thelast century. The keep, its prize
Villena
18
piece, stands on tranverse-archedAlmohad vaulting. From itssentinel walkway, a wide horizonstretches away to merge into thesurrounding valleys. The city’s OldQuarter lies in the shadow of thecastle. Other sights of interest arethe Church of Santa María(St. Mary’s), the main square andthe Shrine of Nuestra Señora de lasVirtudes (Our Lady of Virtue) (7 km.). On display at thearchaeological museum is Villena’svaluable Iberian treasure, acollection comprising 60 gold,several silver and iron pieces, and a good number of prehistoricartefacts. José María SolerArchaeological Museum. Plaza de Santiago, 2. 96 580 11 50.Visits by appointment.
On the way out of the city,heading for Alcoy, another castleawaits the traveller. It belongs tothe town of Biar, has a doublewall and a round-arched gateway.Looming above the two outerwalls and the inner fortifications isa massive square tower.
The Alcoy Mountains
The Alicante highlands lie betweentwo districts characterised bysteeply contoured topography,L’Alcoià and El Comtat, encircledby the peaks and crags of theMariola, Benicadell and AitanaRanges. Owing to the unsuitabilityof the terrain for farming, theeconomic activity of these cities hastended to concentrate onmanufacturing, specialising intextiles and clothing in Alcoy andCocentaina, and toys in Ibi and Onil.
Biar Castle Watchtower
Alcoy. Church of Santa María (St. Mary’s)
19
The itinerary follows the N-340which, after passing throughJijona (Xixona), the turrón(Christmas nougat-like sweetmeat,of Arabic origin, made essentiallyof almond paste but nowproduced in wide variety offlavours) and ice-cream paradise,climbs by twists and turns to Alcoy(Alcoi), 54 kilometres (33 1/2 miles)from Alicante. The Riquer andMolinar Rivers join here to formthe River Serpis, which flows intothe sea at Gandia (Valencia). Thisnatural phenomenon has meantthat the city’s many bridges, itswaterside factories and the unityof its Old Quarter have come tomould its tourist image. Expansionand growth of the medieval centremade it necessary to build bridgesin order for the town to spreadoutwards. Spanning the RiverMolinar is the Canalejas Viaduct,its metal frame coming as aninnovation at the turn of thecentury. The newest bridge wasopened in 1987, to divert the N-340 traffic crossing through themodern part of the city. The Plazade España (main square) stands atthe city centre. In the MedievalQuarter, one can visit the old TownHall, browse around thearchaeological museums andwatch the festivities marking thefiesta of Moros y Cristianos (Moorsand Christians). Walking in theopposite direction, up the calle SanNicolás (calle; street), one finds theModernist (Art Nouveau) sectionof the city.
Camilo Visedo MoltóArchaeological Museum. Placetadel Carbó. 96 554 03 02.Casal Sant Jordi Fiestas Museum.San Miguel, 60. 96 554 05 80.Turrón Museum. Avenida de Alcoy,62. Jijona. 96 561 02 25
Very near Alcoy, the city ofCocentaina, district capital of El
Comtat (the County), is the site ofthe most important medievalquarter in Alicante’s mountainhinterland. The city lies some 60kilometres (37 miles) from Alicanteitself. The fortress-palace of theCounts and the adjacent ClarisasConvent (Franciscan Order of PoorClares) form an extremelyattractive architectural group,
Cocentaina. St. Mary’s Church
20
ranging from Gothic toRenaissance in style. Originally, thewhole was contained within awalled complex, accounting forthe ample dimensions and loftytowers. The collection of buildingsincludes the Monastery of LaVirgen del Milagro (Our Lady ofMiracles), a Neapolitan Baroqueedifice housing a Byzantine icon ofthe Madonna. According totradition, the image wept 17 tearsin the presence of the faithfulduring the revolt of the Germanías(in Valencia and Mallorca) in 1520.Sights include the typical tileworkdecoration on the façades ofhouses lining the MedievalQuarter’s main street, the Churchesof Santa María de la Asunción(St. Mary of the Assumption) andSalvador (St. Saviour’s), and theattractive maze of alleys and lanesin the old Moorish Raval section.Palacio de los Condes (noblemansion). Plaza de las Monjas.
96 559 01 59
From Elche to Orihuela
In the southern part of theprovince there are two large citieseminent for their history andheritage. These are localities whichcombine the tourism of theirsuburban seaside resorts with thearchitectural richness andindustrial activity of their urbancentres, 15-30 kilometres inland.
The itinerary is an easy one, since the N-340 and the Murciamotorway allow for fast smoothtravel.
Elche (Elx), 23 kilometres (14 miles) from Alicante, is thecapital of the El Baix or BajoVinalopó (Lower Vinalopó)district, and the Valencian Region’sthird city in terms of population.The city’s original location was atthe L’Alcudia site, where theIberian bust of the Dama de Elche(Lady of Elche) was found andthen transferred to its currenthome in the MadridArchaeological Museum. In aboutthe 10th century, the city wasmoved by the Moors to its presentposition and encircled with grovesof palm trees, leading somechroniclers of the time to draw aparallel between it and the HolyCity of Islam. The local palm grove -some 200,000 trees coveringan area of over 5,000 square
St. Mary’s Basilica. Elche
21
kilometres- has recently beendeclared a World Heritage Site. In Elche, the main example of this can be seen in the City Parkand the Huerto de Cura (Priest´sGarden), where a seven-armedpalm grows like some freakishwhim of nature. When King James I conquered the city, thevictorious Christians occupied theVila Murada or walled city, and theMoors moved to the Raval area,where a contemporary art galleryis now situated. In the historicalold section, the most interestingsights are the Altamira Palace, theBasilica of Santa María (St. Mary’s),which serves as the stage settingfor the annual Misteri d’Elx (ElcheMystery Play, a dramaticrepresentation of the Assumption),the Moorish Calaforra fortress, theAyuntamiento (City Hall) and theBaños Árabes (Moorish Baths).Archaeological Museum. Alejandro
Ramos Folqués. Diagonal delPalau. 96 545 36 03.L’Alcudia Museum. PartidaAlzabaras, 138. 96 661 15 06.Gallery of Contemporary Art. Plazadel Raval. 96 545 49 82.
Lying along the same route andrelatively near Elche and itsfootwear, textile and clothingfactories is the city of Crevillente,the country’s leading producer andexporter of carpets and rugs. TheChurch of Nuestra Señora de Belén(Our Lady of Bethlehem) is thelocal landmark. Housed in thecrypt, the Mariano BenlliureMuseum, with its display of thesculptor’s Easter pasos (effigies ortableau representing a stage inChrist’s Passion) is well worthseeing.
Orihuela. Cathedral cloister
22
Mariano Benlliure Museum. SanCayetano. 96 540 02 23.Temporarily closed to the public.
Orihuela, the district capital of LaVega Baja is situated 59kilometres (36 miles) fromAlicante, with which it shares theespiscopal seat. It was this rank,coupled with its former standingas a university city, that enabledOrihuela to build up its importantarchitectural legacy. The RiverSegura separates the old, oncewalled city from the modern part.A stroll through the Old Quarter,approached via the CrevillenteGate, will bring one to the House-cum-Museum of the poet, Miguel
Hernández, and to the erstwhileUniversidad de Santo Domingo(St. Dominic’s University), with itstwo magnificent cloisters andportals: one Renaissance, the otherBaroque. An interesting feature inthe refectory is the Manises(Valencian) tilework decoration.Walk up Santa Lucía street to theCatedral del Salvador (Cathedral ofthe Saviour), and see Velázquez’spainting of “The Temptation of St.Thomas Aquinas” and the church’ssmall Romanesque-Gothic cloister.The old town straggles on, skirtingthe Seminary hill (Seminario de SanMiguel - St. Michael’s Seminary).Located in this part of the city arethe Churches of Santas Justa yRufina, Gothic in style, andSantiago (St. James’). It was in thelatter church that the CatholicMonarchs convoked a generalparliament (Cortes Generales) in1488, for the purpose of gatheringfunds to finance the Reconquest ofGranada. Another nationally listedmonument and enhancement tothe city’s heritage is the EpiscopalPalace, which houses importantworks of art.Miguel Hernández House-cum-Museum. Miguel Hernández, 73.
96 530 27 47.Diocesan Museum of Religious Art.Plaza de Teniente Linares.
96 530 06 38.Museo de Semana Santa (HolyWeek Museum). Plaza de laMerced, 1. 96 674 40 89.
Orihuela. Church of Santiago (St. James’)
23
City visitAlicante (Alacant - pop. 276,526)is a welcoming seaside city. Thoughtravelling by car, on arriving in thecity centre one gets the firmimpression that the only real wayto visually understand Alicante isto approach it from the seawardside. The light-filled seafrontpromenade of the Explanada deEspaña (1) brings the vesselsbobbing at the quays into the dailylife of the townsfolk. Throughoutthe day, people can be seenambling up and down betweenthe immense palms that line anavenue whose undulating red,cream and black patternrepresents the waves of a tiled sea.A bandstand on the esplanadeensures that the strains of theMunicipal Band will be there toliven up the leisure hours of theevening and (more especially)Sunday-morning stroller. The cargoand freight harbour, whichacquired great prominence whenthe rail link with Madrid wasformally inaugurated in 1851, actsas the natural outlet formerchandise produced inland.
At one end of the promenade -theValencia end- is El Postiguet (2),the beach that stamps this city
with its permanent holidayatmosphere. Alicante’s south-facing sea frontage means that itenjoys almost constant sunlightthroughout the year. The OldQuarter rises on the sides ofBenacantil Hill, and the mosteloquent witness to that far-offera is the powerful presence ofSanta Bárbara Castle (3), fromwhich a sweeping vista of the city,sea and L’Alacantì district can beenjoyed. Across the road fromPostiguet Beach is the lift whichtakes visitors to the top of the 166-metre (544-foot) outcrop. One canalso ascend by car, along a roadthat climbs the north face. Thefort, Moorish in origin, was rebuiltin the reign of Philip II, and
The Explanada de España promenade
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26
subsequently underwent a seriesof alterations and extensions. Thesection of most interest to visitorsis La Torreta, and the highestpoint is the Plaza del Macho.
At the foot of the castle hill areimportant vestiges of the oldwalled city which once extended asfar as the modern-day RamblaMéndez Núñez (rambla; wideavenue or boulevard). Afterpassing through this Quarter, anarea of narrow streets that bynight becomes the local teenage“scene”, one emerges into thePlaza del Ayuntamiento (CityHall Square) (4). On the loweststep of this Baroque-style
building’s stairway is a discengraved with a zero, marking the point from which all altitudes inSpain are measured, the disc itselfbeing at a height of 3.407 metres (11 feet) above sea level. A fewyards away, the Palacio Gravinahouses the Provincial Archive andRecords Office.Palacio Municipal (City Hall). Plazadel Ayuntamiento, 1.
96 514 91 00.
At the rear of the City Hall, theCathedral Church of SanNicolás de Bari (5), completed in 1662, is a showpiece of theHerrera and Baroque styles.Imprisoned by a maze of alleywaysthat keep jealous guard over thecity’s history, it is nevertheless amere stone’s throw from thecosmopolitan bustle of port and
City Hall
27
beach. Among the mostoutstanding architectural featuresare its Baroque altar, 15th-centurycloister, Communion chapel,grillework and wooden doors.Concatedral de San Nicolás(Cathedral Church of St. Nicholas).Plaza del Abad Penalva, 1.
96 521 26 62
Following any of the narrow lanesthat lead past the City Hall towardsthe northern part of the OldQuarter, one comes to the Plaza deSanta María, where twointeresting buildings merit a visit.The Gothic-style Church of SantaMaría (St. Mary’s) (6) was builton the site of a Moorish mosque.On its Baroque façade, St. Andrewand the Apostle St. James can beseen receiving the faithful, andinside, a sculpted figure ofMadonna and Child presides overthe main altar.
On this small square, cooled by thesea breeze, stands the MuseoCasa de la Asegurada (7), an18th-century edifice donated tothe city by Eusebio Sempere, thefounding spirit behind themovement known as kinetic art.
In the past, this building, which currently houses an importantcollection of contemporary art, with works by Picasso, Gris andMiró among others, was put to avariety of uses, serving asmunicipal granary, city hall, jailand so on.Asegurada Art Gallery. Plaza deSanta María, 3. 96 514 07 06
On the far side of the Rambla deMéndez Núñez (corresponding toan old river bed), the city extendedbeyond the town wall and grewaccording to the dictates ofmodern life. On one of the wideavenues crossing this part of thecity is the Provincial AuthorityBuilding and, in its basement, theArchaeological Museum (8),
Church of Santa María (St. Mary’s)
28
opened in 1932. In this building,built on Neoclassical lines withBaroque influences, are findstaken from the Tossal de Manisesarchaeological site, discovered onLa Albufereta Beach, which havemade it possible for the life of theancient Iberian settlement, theGreek city and the RomanLucentum to be reconstructed.Provincial Archaeological Museum.Plaza Doctor Gómez Ulla, s/n.
96 514 90 00
Rising behind the ProvincialAuthority Building is the hilltopsilhouette of San FernandoCastle (9), constructed to defendthe city from the Napoleonicinvasion. It is an unfinishedstronghold, now used as a themepark.
Nearby, some 5 kilometres to thenorth, is the previously mentionedshrine that fans the flames ofAlicantinos’ religious fervour anddraws them in throngs on theannual post-Easter pilgrimage. Thisis the Santa Faz Monasterywhere, preserved in an alcove andvenerated as a holy relic, is the veilused by Veronica to wipe Christ’sbrow on the ascent to Calvary. Inthe vicinity of Alicante there are anumber of excellent beaches, such
as San Juan, Cabo de Huertas, LaAlbufereta, Agua Amarga and ElSalar, to name but a few.
Albufereta Beach
29
Leisure andentertainment
Sports
The good climate and widespreadavailability of sports facilities makethe Costa Blanca an ideal holidaydestination for the active tourist,especially watersports enthusiasts.Many beaches awarded prizedEuropean Blue-Flag status havefunfairs geared to a family type ofpublic. Seaside towns offer sailingschools, yacht clubs, windsurfing andwater-skiing instruction, swimmingand scuba-diving clubs. In- and off-shore fishing are also commonhereabouts.
As regards sports clubs andmarinas, special mention should bemade of Denia, Jávea, Moraira,Calpe, Altea, Benidorm, Villajoyosa,El Campello, Alicante, Santa Pola,Torrevieja, Dehesa de Campoamor,Cabo Roig and Pilar de la Horadada.Where competitive sport isconcerned, the main event is Altea’s200-mile Regatta. The region’sexceptional climate allows foroutdoor sports activity all yearround, with sports federationschoosing the Costa Blanca for winterand pre-competition training, aservice niche in which the town ofL’Alfàs del Pi has specialised.A dozen golf courses afford thekeen golfer the enviable opportunityof playing a round or two while onholiday. Several resort towns have
put together attractively-pricedgolfing packages that combine thechance to play at local courses withselect, often villa-type,accommodation. Along its particularsection of coast, Orihuela hasbecome the leader in this field.Denia, Altea, Jávea, Alicante andother towns also cater for golfers.Ramblers and hikers will enjoyexploring the region’s mountainsand valleys. Alicante is home to sixNature Reserves, namely, La FontRoja (Alcoy and Ibi), Peñón de Ifach
(Calpe), Montgó (Denia and Jávea),Salinas de Santa Pola (salt-pans andsalt marsh), Lagunas de la Mata andTorrevieja (wetlands), and El Hondode Elche, as well as the Isle ofTabarca, and Cape La Nao and CapeSan Antonio marine reserves. Forvisitors to the La Marina Baixadistrict, the prospect of climbing the
Moraira. Marina
30
Serra Gelada, Sierra Bernia andAitana Ranges holds out thepossibility of a more strenuous kindof outing.
Leisure and Theme Parks
Alicante: Tabarca Cruises. Sea trips.Alicante harbour.
96 521 63 96.L’Alfàs del Pi: Torneo Medieval(medieval tourney). Dinner andshow. Benidorm-Altea road. Foso delterror (Pit of horrors). Theme park.Benidorm-Altea road.
96 686 55 92.Altea. Cactuslandia. Plant andanimal life. La Galera del Mar, 26.
96 584 22 18.Benidoleig. Calaveras Cave. Wonderof nature. 96 640 42 35.Benidorm: “TERRA MÍTICA”.Mediterranean theme park.
902 02 02 20. Aqualandia.Aquapark and Mundomar theme
park with exhibit of marine life andexotic species. 96 586 91 01.Sierra Helada. and fax 96 586 01 00. Aquascope.Glass-bottomed boats and sea trips.Benidorm harbour
96 585 00 52. Festilandia.Funfair. Avenida del Mediterráneo.
96 585 41 26. Cable Ski. Rincónde l’Oix Beach.Busot. Canelobre Caves. Wonder ofnature. 96 569 92 50.Calpe: Festival Park. Funfair. Levantebeach. 96 583 79 67. PeñónCruises. Sea trip. Calpe harbour.
96 585 00 52Elche: Río Safari. Safari park. At the4-kilometre mark on the Elche-SantaPola road. 96 663 82 88. Huertodel Cura. Botanical gardens.
96 545 19 36.Penáguila: Safari Aitana. Sella-Villajoyosa road. 96 552 92 73Torrevieja: Aquopolis aquapark.Finca La Valla Grande.Vergel: Safari Park Vergel. Safaripark. Valencia-Alicante road, nearPego. 96 575 02 85.
Culture
A date with art, music or cinema,or a trip scheduled so as to be ableto participate in a seminar orattend a cultural event are furtherreasons for choosing the CostaBlanca as a tourist destination.The Ciudad Patricia courses inBenidorm, the seminarsprogrammed by the Elda, Pinosoand Guardamar del Segura
Elche. Huerto del Cura (Priest’s Garden)
31
universities and the courses forforeign students at AlicanteUniversity are high-profile occasionsaffording an opportunity toparticipate in debates on topics ofcurrent cultural interest. In the worldof cinema, the L’Alfàs del Pi andElche Film Festivals, specialising inshorts, and the Orihuela Encuentrosde cine e historia are three eventswarranting special mention. Dramatends to focus on the regulartheatre-season programme atAlicante’s Teatro Principal and theannual Review of ContemporaryTheatre, sponsored by the Ministryof Culture. Music occupies a specialplace in the form of the BenidormSong Festival, specialising in pop, theTorrevieja Habanera and ChoralMusic Contest and the AlicanteFestival of Contemporary Music.Music, polyphony and theatre joinforces in the unique spectacle that isthe Misteri d’Elx, Mediterraneanculture’s oldest known sung dramaticwork. It is staged in Elche’s Church ofSanta María every August and, onexceptional occasions, in November as well. The Azorín Prize for novelsand the Enric Valor Prize for texts inValencian are the highlights in theliterary calendar.
Nightlife
Enjoying the Costa Blanca’s nightlife,particularly when it is really hot andone is sorely tempted to prolong theday into the early hours, issomething well within the reach andpocket of any visitor. Alicante, Elche,
Benidorm and Torrevieja all havebustling nightlife areas, with clubsand music bars, often situated in theheart of the Old Quarter. In thecoastal resorts, the seafrontpromenades really come into theirown at night, with friends grouping,regrouping and lingering till dawn.
The coast puts on a nightly trainservice, dubbed the Trensnochador(a play on the Spanish words fortrain and night-owl), whichtransports young disco-goersbetween clubs along the Alicante-
Altea stretch from 9 p.m. to 5 a.m..There are 33 stops, coinciding withthe most popular night-time venues.The liveliest and best-known dancespots are to be found at San JuanBeach, on the Torrevieja road, andbetween Benidorm and Altea. Thosekeen on gambling can try their luckat the Casino Costa Blanca (on theVillajoyosa road).
Alicante. St. John’s Day festivities
32
Festivals & Folklore
The Moros y Cristianos (Moors andChristians) fiesta is the Alicanteregion’s celebration par excellence.During the different times of yearwhen festivities are held in thosetowns that keep this tradition alive,thousands of people are involved.Dressed in lavish costumes, theyparticipate in parades, posturing andswaggering bravado, dances,swashbuckling displays and mockbattles, and all this to the sound ofraucous music, the thunderous din of
arquebuses and acrid smell ofgunpowder. Alcoy in April is thecapital of this tradition of bloodlessstruggle between two opposingbands: the Moors who were expelledfrom Spain after seven centuries ofoccupation and the Christians, whoextended their territory and customs.Each town adds its particular touchto the fiesta: in Villajoyosa, the forcesarrive by sea; in Biar, the effigy ofMohammed is borne aloft as astandard, and in Alicante’s San Blas
Quarter the entire neighbourhoodtakes part. Most of these processionsare held after dark.
With the arrival of the summersolstice, Alicante’s streets fill withartistically contrived cardboardfigures destined to be cast into theflames on St. John’s Day, to theexplosive accompaniment offireworks. Using commonplacescenes, the bonfires, known as lasHogueras (or in Valencian as, lesfogueres de Sant Joan) satirise thelife of the city, its streets becoming a
permanent source of entertainmentin the form of typical barracas(makeshift booths), parades andlively processions. Other rites of fireinclude the Fallas Fiesta in March,typified by Valencia’s St. Joseph’s Dayfestivities yet also celebrated in Deniaand Benidorm.
In the Alicante locality, festivitiesreach a peak with the staging of theMisteri in the city of Elche on the
Moors and Christians
33
eve and day of 15th August.Undeniably part of the heritage ofmankind, the play is a cultural relic,with the drama of the Assumption ofthe Virgin Mary unfolding to theaccompaniment of medieval musicand song, presenting the audiencewith a work that is at once religiousand musical. Religious traditions arelikewise in evidence in their fullsplendour and brilliance in the EasterWeek processions held in Orihuelaand Crevillente, the Passion Playproduced in Callosa de Segura andAltea, and the re-enactment of the
story of the Three Magi in Cañada.One further date on the Costa Blancafiesta calendar is the spectacle knownas toros a la mar or bous a la mar(bulls by the sea) held on the Deniaquayside.
Shopping & Handicrafts
Alicante’s thriving industrial sectorhas in no way acted as a brake on itsdeep-rooted handicrafts tradition,
which continues to produce goodswith great tourist appeal. The oldestartisan activity is that of pottery andceramics, with production centred onthe towns of Biar, Onil, Agost andOrba. While a visit to these parts isinteresting in itself, the localhandmade products can be acquiredin many of the province’s resorts. Thecatalogue of items produced includeseverything from traditional two-spouted water jars (botijos) to largeamphora-like earthenware wine vats(tinajas), not forgetting to mentionpitchers (cántaros), mortars(morteros) and water ewers(aguamaniles). The same applies tobasketry items made of espartograss, osier, rush and palmetto. Gatade Gorgos is the mainmanufacturing and sales centre, butwickerwork furniture, straw hats andbaskets can be purchased all alongthe coast. Elx produces the symbolicpalm decorations for Palm Sunday,while Callosa de Segura and Coxmake the typical esparto-grass andcanvas alpargatas (Spanish version ofthe French espadrille).
Similarly, where textiles areconcerned, an attractive range ofhandiwork is on offer. Shopping forembroidery and needlework istypical in San Juan, whilst the townsof Monóvar, Algueña, Novelda,Pinoso and La Romana sellhandmade lacework (encaje debolillo). In Guadalest and thesurrounding area, knitted garmentsmade of brightly coloured wool arethe main mementos on sale.
Elche Mystery Play (Misteri d’Elx)
34
Wrought ironwork tends to belocalised in the Denia, Agres, Villena,Torrevieja and El Campello areas.Using traditional techniques, Alcoycontinues to manufactureblunderbuses (trabucos) for use infiestas.
Santa Pola and Torrevieja specialise, inthe former case in objects made ofseashells, and in the latter case, in tinyboats overlaid with salt crystal takenfrom the neighbouring salt-pans. Theold Pinoso and Monóvar wineriesproduce wines which, thanks to thequality of the barrels, bouquet andtaste, are the most famous of thosesold under the Alicante Seal of Origin(Denominación de Origen, equivalent to the French Appellation d’Origine Contrôleé). Other items to be bought on the Costa Blancainclude dolls from Ibi and Onil, rugsand carpets from Crevillente, turrónand ice-cream from Jijona, andfootwear from Elche, Elda and Villena.
Trade Fairs and Exhibitions
The Alicante Trade Fair Institute(Institución Ferial Alicantina - IFA)Exhibition Grounds, located on theAlicante-Elche road close to theairport, are the venue for a busy,year-long schedule of trade fairsfocusing on the most dynamicsectors of the province’s economy.The leading events feature home-made ice-cream, footwear, fashion, leather and fur, caravanning, leisure
and entertainment, hotels, cateringand tourist facilities, fiesta appareland accessories, and touristpromotions.
Local cuisine
The staples of the so-calledMediterranean diet constitute thebasic ingredients of Alicante cuisine.Rice, cooked in all manner of waysand styles, is undoubtedly the mostfrequent dish in the provincialcuisine. On the coast, rice and brothare eaten together with the fishfrom which both draw their flavour,true to the traditions of the fish stewthat local fishermen used to cook up.Arroz a banda is the name given tothe dish in which the rice, drier anddyed the colour of theaccompanying dried red peppers orñoras, is served alone. Othervariations allow for the rice to beflavoured with squid (calamar) andtunny fish, chicken and fillet of pork,baby squid (chipirones) and garlicshoots, or tunny fish and shrimps(gambas). It just depends on whichingredients are lying to hand.
Rice and seafood dish
35
At the seaside, shellfish and salt-dried fish are on the menus of everyrestaurant. The day’s choice mightinclude gilthead bream (dorada),bass baked in salt (lubina a la sal),seafood with a squeeze of lemon, orsome delicious sea-fresh red mullet(salmonete) and whiting(pescadilla). Whether steamed orgrilled, clams (almejas), King prawns(langostinos), pink and brownshrimps (gambas rojas, quisquillas)are a delight to the palate, as is thedish that combines mojama (salt-dried tunny) with cod (bacalao),mackerel (caballa) and a garnishingof olives.
In the mountain areas, rice forms anintegral part of the olleta, a typicaldish in which it is mixed with pork,sausage meats, pumpkin, turnip,chard stalks (pencas), chickpeas andstring beans. Rice can also be used asa filling in bajoques farcides, anappetising dish of stuffed peppers. Ascould be expected, the inland areasoffer excellent meat dishes, e.g., porkcutlets, rabbit cooked in garlic andtomato, leg of lamb, and localsausage meats. In the Vinalopó andSegura river valleys, full advantagehas been taken of the locally-grownproduce to build up a cuisinefeaturing dishes, such as cocido conpelotas (potage containing ballsmade of egg and finely diced parsley,crumbed and fried), olla viuda(vegetable stew, with onion,chickpeas, garlic and spinach, eatenduring Lent), arroz con costra (ricewith sausage meats and chicken or
turkey, sometimes coated with alayer of egg and baked in the oven)and the heady pava borracha (roastturkey a la cognac).
The mouthwatering desserts of theAlicante region feature Jijonaturrón, ice-cream, grapes, raisins,dates, almond pastries, pasteles degloria (a sugared confectionerymade with egg yolk and traditionallyeaten on Easter Saturday, sabado degloria) and almojábenas (sweet,fritter-like pastries, dipped in syrup),not forgetting the coffee liqueurfrom Alcoi and the herb liqueurs ofthe Sierra Mariola Range. The finestwines -reds, rosés and claretes (not aclaret but a light-coloured winemidway between red and rosé)- aremade in the Alto Vinalopó andMarina Alta districts.
A range of the local turrónsweetmeat
36
USEFUL ADDRESSES
International Dialing Code: 34
Turespaña Tourist Information 901 300 600
www.tourspain.es
Agencia Valenciana de Turismo(Valencian Tourist Authority)Avenida de Aragón, 30, 8ª. 46021 Valencia. 96 398 60 00,fax 96 398 60 01Patronato Provincial de TurismoCosta Blanca (Costa BlancaProvincial Tourist Board)Federico Soto, 4. 30001 Alicante.
96 523 01 60, 902 10 09 10Tourist Information Offices:Alicante: Explanada de España, 2.
96 520 00 00, fax 96 520 02 43Altea: Carrer Sant Pere, 9.
96 584 41 14, fax 96 584 42 13L’Alfàs del Pi: Federico García Lorca, 11. 96 588 82 65, fax 96 588 71 12Benidorm: Avenida Martínez Alejos, 6. 96 585 13 11 - 96 585 32 24, fax 96 586 36 25Calpe: Plaza del Mosquit.
96 583 85 32, fax 96 583 85 31Campello: Avenida GeneralitatValenciana. 96 563 46 06Denia: Plaza Oculista Buigues, 9.
96 642 23 67, fax 96 578 09 57Elche: Parque Municipal.
96 545 27 47, fax 96 545 78 94Finestrat: Avenida de la MarinaBaixa, 14. 96 680 12 08, fax 96 680 12 72Guardamar: Plaza de laConstitución, 7. /fax 96 572 72 92Jávea: Almirante Bastarreche, 11.
96 579 07 36, fax 96 579 60 57
Orihuela: Francisco Die, 25. 96 530 27 47, fax 96 530 59 64
Pilar de la Horadada: Carretillas, 19.96 676 70 68,
fax 96 535 20 72Santa Pola: Plaza de la Diputación.
96 669 22 76, fax 96 541 46 51Teulada: Moraira-Calpe road. Centrocomercial (Shopping Mall).
/fax 96 574 51 68Torrevieja: Plaza Ruiz Capdepont.
96 570 34 33, fax 96 571 59 36Vilar de Biar: Avenida de Villena.
96 581 11 77Villajoyosa: Costera de la Mar.
96 685 13 71, fax 96 685 29 47
Useful Telephone Numbers
Hospital Emergencies: 112Red Cross (Cruz Roja):
96 525 41 41El Altet Airport: 96 691 90 00Renfe (Spanish Rail):
902 24 02 02Bus and Coach Station:
96 513 07 00Taxis: 96 510 16 11- 96 525 25 11Road Traffic: Road & Highwayinformation 900 123 505
Paradors (State-run hotels)
Central booking office.Calle Requena, 3. Madrid 28013.
91 516 66 66, fax 91 516 66 57.www.parador.esE-mail: [email protected]
Parador de Jávea: Avenida delMediterráneo, 7. 96 579 02 00,fax 96 579 03 08
SPANISH TOURIST INFORMATION OFFICES ABROAD
Canada. TorontoTourist Office of Spain2 Bloor Street West Suite 3402TORONTO, Ontario M4W 3E2
1416/961 31 31,fax: 1416/961 19 92e-mail: [email protected]
Great Britain. LondonSpanish Tourist OfficeManchester Square, 22-23.LONDON W1M 5AP
44207/486 80 77,fax: 44207/486 80 34e-mail: [email protected]
Japan. TokyoTourist Office of SpainDaini Toranomon Denki Bldg.4F. 3-1-10Toranomon. Minato-Ku. TOKIO-105
813/34 32 61 41,fax: 813/34 32 61 44e-mail: [email protected]
Russia. MoscowTourist Office of SpainTverskaya – 16/2 Business Center“Galeria Aktor” 6º floor.MOSCOW 103009
7095/935 83 97,fax: 7095/935 83 96e-mail: [email protected]
Singapore. SingaporeTourist Office of Spain541Orchard Road. Liat Tower # 09-04238881 SINGAPORE
657/37 30 08, fax: 657/37 31 73e-mail: [email protected]
United States of AmericaLos Angeles. Tourist Office of Spain8383 Wilshire Blvd, Suite 960BEVERLY HILLS, CAL 90211
1323/658 71 95 fax: 1323/658 10 61e-mail: [email protected]. Tourist Office Of SpainWater Tower Place, suite 915 East845, North Michigan AvenueCHICAGO, ILL 60-611
1312/642 19 92,fax: 1312/642 98 17e-mail: [email protected]
Miami. Tourist Office of Spain1221 Brickell AvenueMIAMI, Florida 33131
1305/358 19 92,fax: 1305/358 82 23e-mail: [email protected] YorkTourist Office of Spain666 Fifth Avenue 35th.floor NEW YORK, N.Y. 10103
1212/ 265 88 22Fax: 1212/ 265 88 64e-mail: [email protected]
Embassies in MadridCanada. Nuñez de Balboa, 35
91 431 43 00, fax: 91 431 23 67Great Britain. Fernando El Santo, 16
91 319 02 00, fax: 91 308 10 33Japan. Serrano, 109
91 590 76 00, fax: 91 590 13 21Russia. Velazquez, 155
91 562 22 64, fax: 91 562 97 12United States of America.Serrano, 75
91 587 22 00, fax: 91 587 23 03
CONSULATE IN ALICANTEGreat BritainPlaza Calvo Sotelo, 1-2. 96 521 60 22;Fax: 96 514 05 28
Text:Jaime Millás
Translation:Michael D. Benedict
Photographs:Turespaña Photographic Archives
Layout and design:Florencio García
Published by© Turespaña
Secretaría de Estado de Comercio yTurismo
Ministerio de Economía
Printed by:IMPRESA
D.L. M-
NIPO: 380-00-006-2Printed in Spain
2nd. Edition
Cos
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MINISTERIO DE ECONOMÍA
SECRETARÍA DEESTADO DE COMERCIO Y TURISMOSECRETARÍA GENERAL DE TURISMO
TURESPAÑA
EUROPEAN COMMUNITY
European Regional Development Fund
