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APPAREL INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP
AT
AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED
CHENNAI
SUBMITTED BY:
SHISHIR GUPTA
UDAY SHANKAR JHA
Bachelor of Fashion Technology
(Batch 2004 – 08)
DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGYNATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
HYDERABAD
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 1
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the following students of Fashion Technology Department
specializing in Apparel Production
Shishir Gupta
Uday Shankar Jha
had carried out Apparel Industry Internship at Ambattur Clothing Limited, Chennai from
21st May 2007 to 13th July 2007.
Centre Coordinator
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 2
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The quest for knowledge provokes man to undertake many journeys in life. Through his
pursuit, there are various people who extend their invaluable support to make it a success
we would like to extend our sincere gratitude to those people whose help and guidance
made our apparel internship at ACL possible.
First of all we would like to thank Mr. Indevar Pandey (Director NIFT, Hyderabad) and
Dr. P Krishna Mohan (Registrar NIFT, Hyderabad) for giving us an opportunity to have
first hand experience of the Apparel Industry. We sincerely thank our course co-ordinator
Mr.Sanjay Shrivastava and Mr Rajasekhar (RIC,NIFT,Hyd) who took pains in arranging
for the internship and ensuring its success .
We are extremely thankful to Mr. S.V.Srinivan (HRM), Mr. Amaan, Mr. Bala and Mr.
Sairam for their cordial warmth and support that they have extended.
We are extend our sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr.Radha Krishnan (factory
manager), Mr. Shiva Kumar (Production Executive), Mr. Vasu Devan and Mr.Ajay for
their continuous, encouraging and patient support. Without their practical advice and
valuable experience and expertise, we would never have completed this report.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 3
PREFACE
The Industry internship is a means to provide fresh college student a practical knowledge
about the industry work culture. The internship acted as a interface where we experienced
how the theoretical learning and input of three years of education in NIFT can be applied
to real life situations. This experience was indeed made wonderful with the help and
support given by people from India’s one of the best manufacturing unit – Ambattur
Clothing Limited.
ACL is a place where best brands are manufactured with great care and customers are
looked upon as god. Gap, Banana Republic, J Jill, J Crew, Old Navy, Ann Taylor, Espirit,
Levis, Diesel are some of the brand names which would obviously require no
introduction. Working with such a big name was really an achievement.
The document describes the structural and functional working aspects of a Garment
manufacturing unit through our experience in Ambattur Clothing Limited.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 4
TABLE OF CONTENT
Sr. No. TOPIC Pg. No.
1 COMPANY PROFILE 1
1.1 INTRODUCTION 1
1.2 COMPANY FACT FILE 2
1.3 CAPACITY 2
1.5 LOCATION 3
1.4 PRODUCT RANGE 3-4
2 ORGANISATION CHART 5
2.1 CORE MANAGEMENT 5
2.2 PRODUCTION 6
3 H.R. AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT 7
3.1 ACL MISSION 7
3.2 WELFARE MEASURES 8
4 MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT 9
4.1 ORGANISATION HIERARCHY 9
4.2 PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT 10
4.2.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF DIFFERENT STAGES 11-23
5 PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT 24
5.1 PATTERN DEPARTMENT 23
5.1.1 ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY 24-25
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 5
5.1.2 FUNCTIONS 25
5.2 CAD DEPARTMENT 25
5.2.1 FUNCTIONS 25
5.2.2 PM AND GRADING DETAILS 25-26
5.3 SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 27
5.3.1 COMPONENTS OF THE SAMPLING DEPARTMENT 27
5.4 MARKER DEPARTMENT 27
5.4.1 FUNCTIONS 27
6 R & D DEPARTMNET 28
6.1 FUNCTIONS 28
6.2 COMMENTS FROM BUYER 28-29
7 MIS DEPARTMENT 30
7.1 BUSINESS MANAGEMENT CENTER 30-31
7.2 PRODUCTION MANAGEMENT CENTER 31-32
8 CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT 33
8.1 OBJECTIVES OF CIED 33
8.2 FUNCTIONS OF CIED 33-34
9 EXPORT DEPARTMENT 35
9.1 PRE-SHIPMENT DOCUMENTATION 35
9.1.1 AEPC DOCUMENTATION 35
9.1.2 CUSTOM DOCUMENTATION 35-36
9.2 BUYING HOUSE DOCUMENTATION 36
9.3 BUYER DOCUMENTATION 36
9.4 LETTER OF CREDIT 37
10 MATERIAL MAINTAINENCE CENTER 38
10.1 FABRIC STORE 38-39
10.1.1 FABRIC QUALITY CHECKING 39-41
10.2 TRIMS STORE 41-42
11 WASHING UNIT 43
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 6
11.1 WORK FLOW IN THE WASHING UNIT FOR BULK PRODUCTION 43-45
11.2 LAUNDRY MACHINERIES DETAIL 46
12 PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL SP 10/8 47
12.1 INTRODUCTION 47
12.2 FACT SHEET: ACL SP 10/8 47-48
12.3 ORGANISATIONAL CHART: SP 10/8 49
13 LAYOUTS 50
13.1 CUTTING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 50
13.2 SEWING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 51
13.3 FINISHING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 52
13.4 PACKAGING DEPATMENT LAYOUT 52
14 STORES 54
14.1 FABRIC STORE 54
14.1.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 54-55
14.2 TRIM STORE 56
14.2.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 56-57
15 CUTTING DEPARTMENT 58-60
15.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 61-64
15.2 M/C & TABLE DETAILS 65
15.2.1 TABLES 65
15.2.2 MACHINERY 65
15.2.3 MISCELLANEOUS 65
15.3 QUALITY CHECK IN CUTTING ROOM 66
15.3.1 S.O.P. FOR SPREADING AUDITOR 66
15.3.2 S.O.P. FOR CUTTING SUPERWISOR 67
15.3.3 S.O.P FOR FUSING MECHANIC 68
16 SEWING DEPARTMENT 69
16.1 LINE SECTION 70-72
16.2 KAJA SECTION 73
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 7
16.2.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 73-74
16.3 QUALITY CHECKING IN SEWING ROOM 75-76
16.4 MACHINE ANE EQUIPMENT DETAIL 77
16.4.1 MACHINES 77
16.4.2 MISCELLANEOUS 77
17 FINISHING DEPARTMENT 78
17.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 78-81
17.2 MACHINE AND EQUIPMENT DETAIL 82
17.2.1 MACHINES 82
17.2.2 MISCELLANEOUS 82
18 PACKAGING DEPATMENT 83
18.1 A BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE PROCESS FLOW 83-84
18.2 EQUIPMENT DETAILS 84
18.3 POLY BAG, BARCODE, CARTON STICKERS DETAIL 85
19 QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT 86
19.1 LIST OF THE DETAILS TO BE CHECKED 86-87
19.2 LIST OF THE DEFECT CHECKED 87
19.3 AUDIT FIOW CHART IN ACL 88
19.3.1 SAMPLE SELECTION TECHNIQUES 88
20 MAINTAINENCE DEPARTMENT 89
20.1 PREVENTIVE MAINTAINENCE PROCEDURE 89
20.1.1 MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE 89
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 8
20.1.2ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE 89
20.2 BREAKDOWN MAINTAINENCE 90
20.2.1 MECHANICAL MAINTAINENCE 90
20.2.2 ELECTRICAL MAINTAINENCE 90
20.3 SPARES INVENTORY 90
20.4 ARRANGEMENT OF MACHINES & ATTACHMENTS 90
20.5 GENERAL MAINTAINENCE 91
20.6 WORKSHOP 91
21 PROJECT 92-97
22 CONCLUSION 98
APPENDIX
ANNXEURES
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 9
1. COMPANY PROFILE
1.1 Introduction: Ambattur Clothing Limited was incorporated in the year 1981 by Mr. Vijay Mahtaney
(VIJU), who is a first generation entrepreneur. The company was started with a single
factory with a work force of around 150 employees. In just 2 decades the organization has
become the fifth largest exporter of garments in India, with a total workforce of over
15000 people employed in nine production facilities managed by the company.
ACL has a very high reputation in the global market for its commitment to Quality and
delivering within the stipulated time equipped with the latest state of the art technology.
ACL specializes in the manufacture of Shirts, Trousers, Ladies wear, Jackets etc. ACL
clientele includes GAP, BANANA REPUBLIC, J JILL, J CREW, OLD NAVY, ANN
TAYLOR, ESPIRIT, LEVIS, DIESEL to name a few. “COLOR PLUS” which has a very
high reputation in the domestic market was a part of the ACL group. ‘CLOTHES
ENCOUNTER’ is a retail division of ACL, which has got its showrooms in 7 locations
across India.
In a highly demanding industry like Apparel Exports, where competition from both
domestic and abroad is fierce, Human Resource and Infrastructure decides sustenance and
success of any key player. ACL has the positive edge in both the factors, which is the
prime and sole reason for its success.
Over the years, ACL has come to signify the best in the service and dependability for
many of its clients. This resulted as a great achievement for the organisation as last year it
has crossed an annual turn over of 140 Million US dollars. The organisation has also been
rated as “Best client in India” by IDBI bank.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 10
1.2 Company Fact File:
Name of the Company Ambattur Clothing Limited
Head office 86/ E2, Industrial Estate, Ambattur, Chennai
Establishment Year 1981
Managing Director Mr. Vijay Mahtaney
Nature of Business Export
Product Category Product MiX
Main Export Market USA, Europe, Canada, Middle East
No. of Workers 15000
Annual Turnover 140 Million US Dollars
1.3 Capacity:
Location Capacity (2005-06) Capacity (2006-07)
ACL, Chennai, India 8 Million pieces 9 Million Pieces.
ACL, Bahrain 3 Million Pieces. 3 Million Pieces.
Total 11 Million Pieces. 12 Million Pieces.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 11
1.4 Location:
1.5 Product Range:
Ambattur provides a wide variety of products. It manufactures bottoms from basic chinos,
to denim, to classic wool pants. The factories are well equipped to sew, wash and pack
the diversified range. Even in tops, it makes the basic shirts (men’s & ladies) going on to
dress shirts and fitted garments in fabrics ranging from polyester, linen & Voile.
Buyer wise product range distribution is described as follows:
Product Buyers
Woolen pants Banana Republic, Gap, Liz Claiborne, Tommy Hilfiger
Two Ply Twill Chinos Banana Republic, Next, Esprit, Gap, Kohls, Eddie Bauer
Cotton / Lycra Stretch Banana Republic, Ann Taylor, Liz Claiborne, Lauren
Polyester / Blends Jones NY, Banana Republic, Levis, Ann Taylor.
Cotton Shirts / Tops Banana Republic, Arrow, Liz Claiborne, Eddie Bauer, Ann Taylor.
Linen Shirts / Pants Banana Republic, Liz Claiborne, Marks & Spencers, Gap
Woolen Jackets Banana Republic, Gap
Jackets Moleskin/ Cotton Banana Republic, Esprit.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 12
2000 Machines
AmbatturChennai, India
2 Production Facilities500 Machines
Export ZoneChennai, India
1 Production facility600 Machines
ACILBahrain
Ambattur Group
Products range categorization on the basis of volume of manufacturing:
ACL product range can also be categorized product wise as follows:
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 13
2. ORGANIZATIONAL CHART
2.1 Core Management:
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 14
Product Range
Women’s wear Men’s wear
Shirts
Jackets
Trousers
Shorts
Top
Skirts
Pants
Dresses
Jackets
Shorts
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 15
Mr. Vijay Mahtaney Managing Director
Production Units Operational Functions Support Functions
Mr.Behram K Director - Production
Ms.Ambika/ Mr.Bopanna
Director – Merchandising/
VP - Merchandising
Mr.Darius K Head R&D
CAD/CAM/Sampling Quality Assurance
Mr.Vinayak T Head - MMC
Mr.T Rajendran Head – Human
Resources Administration
Mr.T Subramaniam Finance & Accounts MIS, Projects & IT
Mr.V Paranthaman Head - Commercial
2.2 Production:
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 16
Mr. Behram K Director
Mr. Manohar K Babu Genreral
Manager
Mr. .Ganapathy S General Manager
Mr. Gopinath General
ManagerMEPZ Division
Mr. Krishnan, FM
Mr. Sekar/Mr. Mani, PM
SP 53
Mr. Anandraj, FMMr. Raja, PM
69 B
Mr.Radhakrishnan, FM
Mr.Shankar, PMSP 10/8
Mr .Dave, FMMr. Shaji, PM
B 12
Mr. Narasimhan, FM
Mr. Balakrishna, PM
B 13, B 15
Mr. Anand, FMMr. Prince, PM
( B 9)Mr. Rajendran PM
(B 10)
Mr. Srikanth, FMMr. Gopalan, PM
D 26
Mr. Pawan / Mr. Sudhakar, FM
3. HUMAN RESOURCE AND WELFARE DEPARTMENT
ACL’s human resource policy stems from the underlying belief that human resource is
one of its greatest assets. These assets appropriately motivated developed and above all
professionally managed will be source for the advancement of ACL’s corporate plans.
Corporate personal policy strives to secure job satisfaction for all its employees. It is
ACL’s vision is to be the “MOST PREFERRED EMPLOYER” in garment industry and the
means employee towards this end includes:
Ensuring value driven management
Highly contemporary HR practices
Focus on candidate’s short term and long term plans
Flexibility towards horizontal and vertical movement within the organization
3.1 ACL’s Mission
To evolve a corporate work culture supportive of every individual’s pursuit of
dreams, equality of human dignity, ownership of organizational effectiveness and
open communication for collaborative and cohesive team work
To constantly foster strong customer orientation, highly accountable role holding
and total performance alignment across the organization
To incorporate the most effective and progressive training and development policy
which strives to meet the rising demands of the organization, wherein every
employee in the organization will undergo a minimum training on technical and
behavioural areas in a given calendar year
To constantly foster a congenial working environment which motivates every
employee in the organization to facilitate maximum output
To align with the changing Business Demands and Goals and accordingly
institutionalize the key performance areas of the functional departments and every
individual.
Employee Welfare is a continuous process and Department emphasizes on developing
suitable welfare measures, which are on par with the best industrial practices.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 17
3.2 Welfare Measures Provided To Employees:
Medical facility: The organization has its medical centre located in SP-24, which
has an in –house medical practitioner, with renowned specialist visiting regularly.
The service is totally subsidized and the employees have to pay a very nominal
amount for registration. The centre also provides medicines at very nominal rates.
Crèche facility: The organization also offers crèche facility to the employee’s
children in the age group between 1-6 yrs of age. Certified and well trained
personnel in childcare manage this facility. The centre also provides periodic
health checkups for the children.
Library facility: The organization has a corporate tie-up with British council
library for taking care of the library needs of the employees and the organization.
Every employee is eligible to avail this service and borrow books, periodicals,
magazines, videos for a period of 2 weeks.
Transportation facility: The organizations provide transportation facility where
ever it is feasible. The HR department makes all the necessary arrangements.
Company functions: Employees are called upon to participate in the any of the
company’s functions, either conducted in the premises or outside the premises on
various occasions, including physical activities conducted regularly.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 18
4. MARKETING AND MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
The company has exclusive teams of merchandisers for each buyer like GAP, Diesel,
Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J- Jill respectively. The major functions of the
department can be summarized as follows:
Identification of selling avenues and Buyers
Maintaining buyer’s faith and promises.
Promotion or marketing the brand to the right audience at the right time.
Coordinates different departments to achieve production within lead time.
4.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Department:
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 19
BMC HEAD (MANAGER)
MERCHANDISER
(PRODUCT DEVELOPME
NT)
Sr. MERCHANDIS
ER (PRODUCTIO
N)
Sr. MERCHANDIS
ER (PRODUCTIO
N)
Jr. MERCHANDISER
(P D)
Jr. MERCHANDISER
(P D)
MERCHANDISER (TOPS)
MERCHANDISER (TOPS) MERCHANDISER
(BOTTOMS)MERCHANDISER
(BOTTOMS)
MERCHANDISER
(SOURCING)
MERCHANDISER
(SOURCING)
Jr. MERCHANDISER
(P D)
4.2 Product Development Department
Product development department comes under marketing. The company has in-house
design studio to anticipate and react to market trends and buyer’s orders.
The product development department takes care for the steps of conversion of design from
paper to garment with actual fabric.
Diagram showing the sampling stages from design to bulk production of the garment
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 20
Design on
paper
Garment with actual
fabric
Garment design
Printing & development
Wash trials
Adoption
Critical fitFranchise
Production
Proto
4.2.1 A brief description of different stages:
Proto/ Early Book sample: It is the first sample from paper to fabric. In this the main
points which are looked into are Pattern, fit, drape, fall of the garment. Substitute trims
can be used. Then it is sent to buyer for approval. Fit comments are sent by buyer.
Measurements should be within the tolerances.
Wash trials: It is done after the fit is finalized for proto. It is the same style which can be
done on different fabric. Finalize type of wash for fabric. Sleeve modes, leg panels, shirt
mocks etc are made to test for wash trials.
Developments: Initially it is done in the form of sketches on the piece of the sample. It is
done in order to check the capacity of vendor. It is submitted to buyer for getting the
feedback on the sample.
Adoption sample: It is very important stage of production of styles in different fabric of
different colour. It should contain actual aesthetic appeal. It has actual trims and approved
wash standards. It is representative of Ambattur to the buyer. Final order placement by the
buyer is done only after the acceptance of adoption sample.
Critical fit: After the proto fit buyer would give comments, which would be incorporated
in adoption stage. In adoption stage presentation is covered, in critical fit all specifications
should be within tolerance to assess the fit of the garment. It is sent to the buyer for
confirmed order; all specifications are followed in this.
Franchise: Marketing team of buyer sends all styles of the sample to the different retail
units to predict the market response. Here, the aesthetics of the garments is important to
them than measurement.
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 21
Basic procedure in Product development
Tracker: It is the excel chart from the buyer which mentions styles allocated to different
vendors. It is a comprehensive chart which is circulated among all SVD offices (Supplier
Vendor Development office), indicating entire status of adoption sample for a particular
season. It has all the details of the styles to be made with like fabric, colour and the wash.
Garment specification sheet: It is made by the designers and sent to SVDs. Designers
provide details such as sewing, construction details, which are required to make the
garment diagrammatic introduction. It includes buyer block / pattern to be followed for
shapes and the measurement/ specifications of all the parts of a finished garment. As soon
as GSS is received, it is checked if any extra information is needed or not. For any extra
information the CSP (customer supplied product) will be circulated to CIED (central
industrial engineering department) and R&D (research n development).
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 22
GSSBOMPattern
Buyer Tracker
Research & Development
Research & Development Comments
CIEDDD
Pattern request
Sample requestMarker request
Wash request(If applicable)
Sample
Costing
SAM
BOM (Bill of materials): It contains the details of shell fabric, labels, buttons,
interlinings, threads, prints, embroidery, wash specifications, packaging details etc.
Trims ordering should have following details:
Supplier name
Buyer ref no.
Trim description label, button, colour, size, quantity
Buyer Bloch: It is the soft copy of the pattern which is necessary for pattern making on
paper.
Pattern request: After GSS, BOM and Buyer Bloch, pattern request is issued for the
preparation of computerized or manual pattern. Communication with this department is
only through marker request form.
These are the following detail in the pattern request form:
Version of pattern
Size
Fabric type
Enclosed GSS, BOM, Sample and Pinned sample
R & D comments: When the pattern is ready, the pattern department will send
merchandising department comments. They will also give costing comment which can be
done on style without affecting design and style. These comments to be enclosed with
sample request.
Sample request: As soon as fabric and trims are required sample request is issued, which
contains following details:
Style no
Pattern version to be used
Main fabric details with swatch
Labels detail
Button detail
Other detail like zip, tape, lace
Colour, size wise quantity of samples required
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 23
Wash details
Special instructions
Enclose the copy of GSS, BOM and R&D comments.
Once sample request is given the following sequence is followed:
Store has to handover the fabric and trims required for a sample request
Pattern cutting: Here the cutting of fabric as per the pattern takes place
Embroidery and printing(if applicable)
Lining issual
Buttons, Hooks, Contrast thread required issued
Washing(if applicable)
Finishing: After washing samples will be checked for quality, ironed and packed
After samples reaches merchandiser (Product development team) it is needed to cross
check the samples with GSS and BOM and fill the details of the sample on its label and
tag. Now sample is ready to be dispatched to the buyer.
Wash request: After sample is stitched it has to be sent for washing. It is sent with an
enclosed wash request form to instruct the washing department with the wash required on
sample.
Costing: Before sample is dispatched it is needed to give costing for the same. The
costing of the sample is done in each stage of the sample like proto adoption etc.
The following points are considered while costing:
Fabric consumption and price
Trims consumption and price
Wash price
Printing and embroidery price
SAM given by CIED
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 24
Marker request: After receiving the details about the fabric for a particular style
merchandising department has to determine the consumption of a fabric which is given by
CAD/CAM (Marker department).
The Marker request should contain the following details:
Style no.
Pattern to be used for marker
Cuttable width of the fabric
Repeat size of the fabric with swatch
Placement of fabric
Matching standard for stripe and plaid(checked) fabric
Add information such as NAP up down fabric, one way or two way fabric
Based on above details, marker department will give the consumption (wastage is added
with this and called yield yardage) of the fabric for that particular style.
Matching standard: For stripes and plaid fabrics, Banana republic has some matching
strategy at various parts of a garment to give nice appearance while wearing. Those
standards have big impact on yield yardage. It is always better to give a swatch to avoid
confusion.
To finalize the costing of sample following factors are taken in consideration:
Fabric factor- Fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage (Varies from 5%-
10%)
Contrast fabric factor- Contrast fabric consumption * Fabric price + Wastage
Trims factor-Trims consumption * Price + Wastage
Printing and embroidery prices
Washing
Cutting and manufacturing charges(CM)
Flow Chart for Production
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 25
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 26
Proto
Bulk GSS, BOM & ACT
CPS
Fabric bookingTrims ordering
Approval
Yellow tag
Green tag
PCD
Final Inspection
Rev M
Size Set sample
PP meeting
Approval
Top sample
Shipment sample Shipment
Trim card approval,Thread approval,shade band approvalInterlining report, FTP, GCR
Wash sample
AD sample
GPT sampleYes
Yes
No
No
PRODUCTION
After adoption is over, buyer will start placing order through ACT (All channel trackers).
It is an excel format which has the details about confirmed styles, orders quantity and
delivery etc. after that final GSS and BOM is sent by the buyer. Then the costing is done
again and it is very tight to BOM. The costing is done in CPS format which should be
very tight & competitive. The Product Development department has to hand over the
samples to the concerned production merchants to carry over.
Confirmed Program Sheet: After receiving the bulk GSS and BOM, the costing for bulk
is done and same is sent in a format called CPS to the buyer. This includes all the details
about product like fabric details with price, delivery details and mode and Time & Action
(T&A) plan of that style.
Quantity Indication: Once orders are confirmed, indication of the new order to
management, import & export department to plan for production & spacing is given. For
that we have to give details like style no, colour ways, SAM, order quantity per colour
way, delivery date, and mode of delivery.
Time & Action Plan: This is the plan through which merchandisers commit the exit dates
of various samples such as (Proto, Revised M, yellow tag, green tag, advertisement
sample & shipment sample) to buyer to meet the delivery required by them. Buyer will
give the delivery as IN-DC date. So, we have to work backward & give the dates for
sample exit. From the given details we can have the idea to give dates & will change time
to time for different cases:-
Ex-country: - 35 days back from In-DC.
Ex-factory:-6 days for sea-shipment and 2 days for air shipment.
PCD (package date):- 35 days from Ex-factory for a regular cut n sew program and
45 days for an O/D (over dye) program.
Yellow tag exit date: - 12vdays before PCD.
Revised M exit date:-20 days before yellow tag ED(exit date)
Proto Exit date:-20 days before revised M ED.
PP meeting: - 10 days after PCD.
TOP exit date:- 2 weeks before shipment
INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 27
Order Registration: For order registration Software called Business Management Centre
(in house development) is used. All the details about all the orders from sampling to the
shipment and all the data/ status required can be immediately seen from it.
Fabric Booking: It includes arranging material required for the production. The fabric
required for the particular order is ordered based on yield yardage received from
CAD/CAM. Since Ambattur Clothing Ltd. (banana republic dept) is dealing with
nominated supplier, SVD will give the indication (in form of fabric cutter/ fabric order
confirmation) FOC about the fabric quantity to the mills which should be cross checked
and confirmed to the mill by the department and then have to follow up, cross check some
of the internal procedures like Material Required Chart (MRC), Raw Material Order
(RMO), Performa Invoice (PI) from the mills and purchase order (PO). While ordering the
fabric for bulk, the quantity and delivery of tailoring / sample yardages (for making the
samples) are also specified.
Trims Ordering: Trims like interlining, labels, tags, buttons, price tags and packing
materials to the concerned purchase department through MRC’s (Material requirement
charts). The MRC’s are raised by PPC (production & planning co-ordination) and
merchandisers have to overview the internal procedures like PI (purchase invoices) from
suppliers and PO’s (purchase orders).
BOM & GSS Classification: As soon as the department receives the BOM and GSS, it
has to be studied carefully and asked about the classification within 48 hrs.
Shrinkage Sample: When washed fabric shrinks, it needs to be measured and examined
properly to maintain the specification that buyer wants for the wash programs. Normally
the shrinkage is checked in both warp and weft direction of the fabric which will be added
in the pattern so that it meets/hits the specifications required by the buyer. It is very
important to study the shrinkage on different roles of the fabric as it will differ from roll to
roll or takka to takka. Normally one shrinkage study sample is made before doing any
sample valid for specification/fit to avoid the last time rejection due to measurement
problems and this is totally for internal purpose.
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Proto Sample: After getting the classification for GSS & BOM merchandisers arrange the
samples to be sent to the buyer. First stage sample of production in base size which is only
meant for fit, specification and fabric. In this sample Trims are not actual. Buyer will
review the sample and give their approval or comments on fit.
Revised M Sample: If buyer is giving his comments to a proto, another sample in the
same base size incorporating all the comments is made and sent for approval which is
known as Revised M sample. Again buyer will review the sample and give their approval
which will be called as Revised M. Again buyer will review the sample and give their
approval or comments.
Wash Sample: In tailoring yardage, sample in base size (normally in 4 pieces) is made
with actual wash required for wash approval. The same will be sent to SVD, Delhi and
then approved and then forwarded to the buyer. The approved wash should be maintained
till the end of the order.
Garment Package Test (GPT) Sample: This is exclusively done for Banana republic as
the buyer has set some standards for their products in all the aspects. Banana republic has
nominated some laboratories like ITS Mumbai and BY/MTL Bangalore. So before
starting production the garments to be tested and passed for its qualities like fabric, trims
and stitching quality from those laboratories. Here they will test the sample for fabric
weight, fabric content, flammability of fabric, tear strength, tensile strength, pilling
resistance, rain test, belt loop test, pocket attaching strength, button attachment strength,
snapping/unsnapping strength and various colour fastness tests. To ensure the quality of
the product the department has to make and send the sample as per the labs requirement (4
pieces in dark colour way + 3 pieces in other colours -all in basic sizes).
Yellow Tag or Sealer Sample: Once proto/ Revised M is approved by buyer, the
department has to make a sample same as the Revised M with actual fabric and trims to
get it sealed by SVD Chennai. That is meant for all actual trims, specifications and washes
and to be followed by factory for production.
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Green Tag Sample: There are times when all the trims required to make the yellow tag
sample are not received. In that case the department makes the yellow tag with substitute
trims and get SVD sample in any colour with actual trims and wash. This is basically done
to reduce the production delay.
Advertising Sample: In the meanwhile the department has to send the advertisement
samples (12 pieces) as instructed by the buyer for their catalogue/Marketing team. It is for
presentation purpose so it contains actual trims and fabric.
Size Set: All samples made till this stage After PCD (Production commencement date-
Date on which factory starts working on an order) are made in the base size only.
Therefore, before starting the production factory under goes pilot run that is doing a trial
production and making garments in all sizes. And one piece from each size will be sent to
SVD office to set the approval. The department should get the approval for size set by pre-
production meeting.
Pre Production Meeting: After pilot run and before starting the production the PP
meeting is been conducted at SVD offices to discuss the critical points of the particular
order.
Top of Production (TOP) Sample: As soon as the production starts TOP samples in base
size (4 pieces) are sent to SVD offices and then to buyer to show them the production
product quality. If no comment is received within 48hrs then the production will continue.
Shipment Sample: Samples from bulk are sent to SVD covering all sizes to represent the
shipment. It will contain the actual trims and packaging material and exact wash.
Package File: Normally factory will be located away from headquarters so in turn to
avoid wastage of time in asking the classifications from merchants and to avoid making
mistakes. It will have to give all the details regarding the particular order for which there
is a checklist which were generated from the past experience. All the details should be put
in the package file.
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PRODUCTION PACKAGE FILE CHECKLISTS:
1. Approved Yellow Tag(Sealer)/Pre production sample
2. Full size set pattern and version written on index ( If the style carries embroidery
or print the layout has to be passed on to the size set patterns while sending to the
factory with grading).
3. Index
4. R & D package comment
5. Final updated buyer BOM with CSP date
6. Update internal BOM(ACL)
7. Final GSS with CSP date
8. All fit comments and buyer approvals highlights for constructions
9. Sealer comments and R&D reply for sealer comment
10. Trim cards approved by buyer merchant BMC containing:
a. Thread trim card with all thread qualities, colours, shade approvals and
placement
b. Label trim card with all labels required for all constructions
c. Layout for reference
d. Buttons, snaps, tapes, elastic, zippers etc
e. Price tickets, match books, stickers, hang tag etc.
f. If there are many trims missing from the above mentioned details of the
trims are given
(i) Fabric swatch card (Approved by buyer merchant)
g. Fabric swatches (shell, pocketing, lining, binding, contrast etc). In all
colours with selvedge and right side and nap direction marked on it (where
fabric is plaid or striped then centre front line to be marked).
h. Approved shade bands for fabrics, if not available attach the option sent for
approval.
i. Interlining swatches
(i) Work order
11. PO’s (work order) with CSP date
(i) Reports
12. Fabric package test report for all fabric qualifies (for small quantity where it is not
required, attach the waiver)
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13. GPT report
14. Interlining test report
15. General conformance report for styles having snaps, hook with mocks
16. Thread advisory report
17. Fabric shrinkage report
APPROVALS
Wash approval/band
Digitals for folding instructions of a garment approved from buyer
Pressing standard
Labels and packing trim placement approval with digitals
Print/Embroidery/Swatch with approval for placement, color, artwork appearance
and technique
Matching standard and mini marker for stripes and plaid fabrics
Zipper grading
Any other style specific issues
Internal BOM: It is a system generated BOM in BMC which has all the details about the
particular order like fabric detail, trim detail, order style, PO and the status of the raw
material etc. Shortly it has the complete up to date status of that particular order. This is
circulated to the factory, stores (SP-76) by PPC at time of production for the follow up.
Trim Card: This is swatch card which has the swatch or samples of all fabric and trims
such as labels, buttons, zipper, thread, interlining; tape etc. a set of swatch card has to be
sent to the SVD offices before starting the production and get their approval. Same will
be sent to factories along with the package file for their reference and to avoid confusion.
Thread Advisory Report: Some fabrics are sent to the thread supplier and the quality of
the thread which is to be used for that fabric is taken. Based on that PDD have to match
the thread for fabric and get approval from buyer. The approved thread panel should be
kept in the package file.
Shade Band: Since the yarns for bulk will be dyed more than once, the scope for
different shades of colour is more. As soon as the company receives the fabric, fabric
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stores will segregate the shade, inform the quantity per shade, and then send the band
(collection of different shade swatches) to buyer and get the approval.
Interlining Report: To check the operating temperature and pressure of the interlining to
a particular fabric and to choose the correct interlining supplier and get their
suggestions/advice for the interlining which should be included in the package file.
List of forms used at different stages:
Sample request form
Wash request form
Pattern request form
Marker request form
Short Quantity: After package file is handed over to the factory, factory will start pilot
run, size set samples, TOP samples and shipment samples. At the time of production or
end of the production, factory will inform us the short quality to the actual required
quality, the same to be informed and get approved from buyer beforehand.
Final Inspection: Once the goods are ready, QA from SVD will come and inspect the
goods. Once it is approved, the goods can be moved from the factory premises to the
buyer nominated forwarder and then the goods will be shipped to the buyer.
Shipment Advice: Once the goods are shipped, the details about the shipment like
invoice, delivery challan, Bill of shipping or Air fare & vessel / flight details etc to the
buyer is taken care by Export department. They are also taking care of payment related
activities.
5. PRE PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT
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The pre production department is the assemblage of four different departments which
work in coordination. A brief description of the different component is given below:
5.1 Pattern Department
It is headed by Mr. Chandrasekhar, Mr. Gopal Kumar and Mr. Ganesh Kumar who
handles different buyers such as GAP, Diesel, Eddie Bauer, Levis, Banana Republic and J
Jill.
5.1.1 Organizational hierarchy of the Pattern making & CAD Department:
The basic procedure followed in the department for a new order can be summarized as
follows:
New patterns are made
Buyer amendments are incorporated
Shrinkages are added
Grading is done
These patterns are used in sampling and sent to the buyer for approval, and also
sent to factories for production
Pattern tracking system prevails with version numbers for every amendment.
5.1.2 Functions
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Technical head
Senior pattern maker
Junior pattern maker
Assistant pattern maker
The senior pattern makers work on styles like jackets, outerwear, shirts, trousers,
dresses etc.
The junior pattern makers help out in adding shrinkage to existing patterns,
grading and amendments
The pattern assistants trim the tracing received from the buyer and make templates
Consumption of lace, webbing tapes draw-cord etc are also given by this
department
All factory amendments are also done by the pattern department
5.2 CAD Department
This department is affiliated to the pattern department. The entire computer aided patterns,
amendments, shrinkage and markers are done in this department.
5.2.1 Functions
The senior CAD technicians work on the new patterns, amendments, shrinkage
and grading.
The junior CAD technicians work on digitizing the patterns, tracings, duplications
etc.
5.2.2 Pattern making and Grading details:
Time taken to make a new pattern : 4 hours(Manual), 6 hours (computerized)
Time taken in grading: 8 hours (Manual), 6 hours (computerized)
Total time taken by marker department to give final pattern : 2days
Software used by CAD department : GGT (Gerber Garment Technology)
Type of marker planning: Mixed marker
Working flowchart of the Pattern making & CAD Department
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Merchant gives pattern request form
Pattern version-A is made and given to the merchandisers
Merchant gives changes as per buyer
Pattern version-B is made (if required)
Cross checking
Costing (to book the order) and sampling patterns
Adding shrinkage factor
Checking
Quality Audit
.
5.3 Sampling Department
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Rejection
This department is headed by Mrs. Prasanna kumari. T. This department is equipped with
state of art machineries. This department is self sufficient with a stores, cutting section,
button, and button hole section, finishing, home laundry and embroidery. This department
is segregated buyer wise and each unit is self sufficient with a sampling supervisor and a
quality person who understands the quality standards for their particular buyers.
5.3.1 Components of the Sampling department:
Stores- The stores in sampling keeps account of all the sampling fabric and trims
issued to them. They issue the same to cutting as per the sampling requests.
Cutting section- This department is equipped with personnel who cut fabrics,
pocket interlinings.
Sewing section
Button and button hole section
Finishing/pressing/checking section
5.4 Marker Department
This department works on markers done at costing, amendment and final stages to derive
on the fabric consumption of a garment. All factory lay markers and centrally issued from
marker and CAD department, markers are taken at costing and fit stage
5.4.1 Function
The senior marker will maintain the centralized record from sampling, pattern and
markers
They will file all Patterns by buyer wise and the pattern request form also
Marker maker they mainly concentrated on costing, they have responsibility to
check out the consumption level.
6. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT DEPARTMENT
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The research and development department has different roles in case of different buyers.
However the basic functions of research & development department can be summarized as
6.1 Function
Review the Tech pack for producing a fusibile trims details.
Reviewing a fit for the samples.
Giving an alternative option for some difficult operation.
Giving a fit comment properly to the production people.
Updating the tech pack regularly.
Giving guidance for factory production.
6.2 Comments from Buyer
Fit comment it special for fit of the garment.
Construction comment.
Specification comment.
Trims details.
After getting the GSS and BOM from buyer this will send to three department Research
and development department and CIED department and patter making department.
In research and development they will make costing for each and every process.
They will check the capacity of machines and ability of the workers of factory for
a particular style.
Whether the design and trims of the garment is feasible or not .if the style is
feasible how can will do it in a effective manner .
From sampling development to the end of the production R&D department have
a responsible in each and every step.
While production if the factory people have any doubt in the operation R&D
department will come and clear the doubt regarding the production and
productivity
If there any technical problem R&D department will analysis the problem and
find a proper solution for that problem.
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While sending the sample to the buyer we have to attach the comment from R&D
department.
7. MIS DEPARTMENT
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The company uses centralised information system which is developed by the core IT team
of the company. The company has two tier integrated information system to track the over
all production with the management, planning, Sourcing and inventory facilities. All the
production and the support facilities are interconnected by optical fibre on LAN network.
The information system can be divided in two parts i.e.
1. BMC (Business Management Centre ) and
2. Production Management System
7.1 Business Management Centre
It is the data entry software package used by the Merchandizing and marketing
Department. Each employee of the department has a separate user Id by which they can
access the system. The range of access is pre- defined so that no one can interfere outside
their Domain. The Package function details are pictorially shown below in the screen
shots of the package interface:
Screen shorts showing different menu options of BMC
In this merchandiser can click on any of the menu option in the interface according to the
need. E.g. if he clicks on the Order Registration again following interface will Come with
all the order registration details along with the list of people who are responsible for the
job and can do data entry. For all other users it is read only facility.
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7.2. Production Management System: It is also a data entry software package
used to record information at production facilities. This Package function details are
pictorially shown below in the screen shots of the package interface:
Screen shorts showing Login Screen
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Screen shorts showing different menu options of PMS
8.
CENTRAL INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT
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Industrial Engineering department acts as the bridge between the corporate office and the
production floor. It helps marketing people in understanding the complexity of the product
for accurate negotiation of manufacturing cost with buyer against the production cost
involved for the product based upon the factory efficiency.
8.1 Objectives of Central Industrial Engineering Department
Establish standard method for the operation.
Establish standard work content for a garment.
Reduce the work content there by reducing the manufacturing cost.
Increase utilization of available resource like man, machine and work space.
Making production system more effective.
8.2 Function of Central Industrial Engineering Department
Analyzing the work content of a garment at pre-proto stage for CM’S (Cutting
and Manufacturing Charges) with option to negotiate for CM’S
After order confirmation the evaluation garment is reanalyzed for better &
economical methods to reduces the negotiated CM’S in order to stay in safe
margin
At production stage the factory’s achievements are being closely monitored
and recorded, there by creating the awareness of factory status and requirement
to improve its standard and in benchmarking its achievements.
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Role of Central Industrial Engineering Department
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Buyer
Merchandizing
CIED
H R D
R & D
Sampling
Planning
Factory
MIS
Accounts/Finance
9. EXPORT DEPARTMENT
Export department receives delivery schedule from marketing department and confirm the
product category, quantity, delivery date and destination of orders with the concerned
merchandiser. The following documents are been prepared.
9.1 Pre Shipment Documentation
9.1.1 AEPC (Apparel Export Promotion Council) Documentation
(a) Preparation of following documents and submitting the same to AEPC
Commercial invoice
Shipping bill
Visa format
AEPC annexure
(b) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before shipment
(c) Follow up with AEPC and receive following documents
Endorsed shipping bill
Visa with necessary entries
(d) Ensure that the above documents submitted not later than two days before shipment
9.1.2 Custom documentation
(a) Selection of C & F (Carriage & Freight) agent
(b) Coordinate with C & F agent and decide on shipping line
(c) Preparation of following documents and the same shall be handed over to the C & F
agent days before the planned shipment:
Customers invoice
GRI
Packing slip
Shopping bill
Order copy
(d) Follow up with the C & F agent and ensures that the above documents are submitted to
the customs days before the shipment.
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(e) Coordinate with C & F agent and receive the following document from him
Bill of lading/ airway bill
Freight cargo receipt
GRI duplicate
9.2 Buying House Documentation
Preparation of following documents and sends the same to buying house not later than
days before shipment
(a) Invoice
(b) Packing list
(c) Visa copy
(d) Bill of lading/ airway bill
(e) Single country declaration
(d) QC report
Follow up with buying house and receive inspection certificate not later than days before
inspection.
9.3 Buyer Documentation
Preparation of following documents and forward to buyer
(a) Commercial invoice
(b) Packing list (colour wise and size wise quantity)
(c) Inspection certificate
(d) Bill of lading/ airway bill
(e) Any other declaration required by buyer (e.g. Certificate of origin, single country
declaration)
(d) Ensuring the above document reach buyer in time and receiving feed back
(e) Providing any other information required by the buyer.
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9.4 Letter Of Credit (LC)
After issuing PO buyer will approach to their bank to open LC and accordingly buyer
bank will issue LC and same will be send to manufacture bank. Then the manufacturer’s
bank will hand it over to the manufacturer.
Then the manufacturer will go through the LC and if all the terms and conditions are
correct manufacturer will ask their bank to send message to the buyer’s bank as LC is
accepted.
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10. MATERIAL MAINTENANCE CENTRE
ACL has a centralized fabric and trims store known as Material Maintenance centre
(MMC), situated at SP-76, Industrial Estate, Ambattur. It is one of the most specious
facilities in the company. Its function starts from receiving the fabric and trims, their
inspection, checking the shade variation and shrinkage percentage roll length verification
till the fabric and trim issue to the respective production unit.
Department receives the purchase order of the fabric and trims, purchased by the purchase
department. Goods entered at the gate are checked physically as per the Purchase Order.
It has two separate departments for receiving the fabrics and trims respectively. The basic
work flow in the MMC can be described as follows:
10.1 Fabric store:
After verification with concerned merchant, Pre GIN (Goods Inward Notes) is raised
against the supply invoice. Material is received in forms of bales. Each bale carries 100-
200 fabric rolls. Now bales are opened and all the data is entered in the computer and
based upon Pre Gin a particular bar code no is assigned to each roll which is called GIN.
Rolls are stored width wise and colour wise in racks.
Total rolls are checked any if there is any shortage, information is sent to Purchase
department.
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Fabric / Trims Receiving
Fabric / Trims checking
Fabric / Trims test report
Fabric / Trims issue
The MMC has in-house fabric testing laboratory, which is equipped with high precision
and state of art machinery. Lab makes the FIR (First information report of the fabric
received). With in three days of receiving of fabric, lab has to perform all the tests and has
to submit the report to the head. After all the tests, report is made and sent to merchant
whether to accept it or to reject it. After his remarks, swatches are made and sent to the
reputed labs for same tests. After passing from them the fabric is distributed to the
production factories. List of the tests performed by the MMC lab are as follows:
TEST EQUIPMENTCount Determination Beasley meter
Construction Pick glassWashing fastness Laundromat
Perspiration fastness PerspirometerCrocking Crocking meter
Pilling test Pilling testerTearing strength Tearing strength tester
Flammability Flame BurnerpH pH meter
Colour matching Visual Matching
10.1.1 Fabric quality checking: The universally accepted 4-point inspection system is
used to check the fabrics. After receiving the fabric half a meter, full width fabric is cut.
Fabric swatch is cut from this piece for shade identification and to find roll wise
shrinkage. Roll no is marked on each swatch for identification. The fabric is scanned for
all the defects. All the detail of defects with the Non Conformance Report is made and is
issued to concerned merchandiser for the approval. A minimum 10% checking is done of
each received lot.
Checking process: the checking process constitute following steps which are as follows:
Fabric is being checked as per standard fabric swatch approved by the
merchandiser.
Fabric rolls are checked both in the flat table as well as machine so that the faults,
which could not get detected in the flat table, can be detected on the machine and
vice-versa.
Fabrics are being checked for selvedge to selvedge and centre to selvedge shade
variation.
Defective samples are sent to concerned merchandiser for approval/disapproval.
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Preparation of Non Conformance Report, which highlights all the defects and
characteristics of the fabric, is issued to the concerned merchandiser. He decides
whether to accept or to reject the fabric roll.
Fabrics are inspected and all defects are marked with stickers for identification.
Checked are classified as sounds, seconds or rejected.
Shade identification: The unit has a separate section for fabric shade identification.
Where fabrics are segregated into different shades. It is done by experts based on
their experience.
Shrinkage checking: A square piece of fabric (45 X 45 cm.) is taken for shrinkage
checking. Over locking is done on all four sides to avoid edge fraying. Four points
are marked using a template to check both warp wise and weft wise shrinkage.
After washing in desired conditions the specimen is taken back to checking section
and distance between the two points is noted by a shrinkage scale.
Width checking- Width of the roll is checked with the help of specimen cut from
the roll and record is maintained.
Note:
Before sending bulk fabric, supplier has to send a pilot yardage of same fabric to
us where the defects and quality of the fabric is analyzed. If this pilot yardage is
meeting the buyer’s standard, only then bulk order is given to the supplier,
otherwise report is sent to concern merchandiser to sort out the issue.
List of few fabric defects generally found:
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S.No. defects
1. weaving defect
2. broken warp
3. oil stains
4. slubs
5. warp line
6. crease marks
7. stopping marks
8. knots
9. holes
10. broken weft
11. weft line
10.2 Trims store:
After receiving trims the department raises the Goods Inward Note (GIN) against the
Purchase order of each item. Makes the swatch card with all necessary information like -
PO No, GIN no, buyer, supplier and style. It is sent to the concerned merchant for
approval. After verification Quality checking department checks the quality of trims
received as follows:
Checks 2% of received quantity, if it is ok, trims are sent to issue department to
issue it to production units.
Otherwise checks 5%. In this 5%, if rejection is less than 2%, forward it to issue
department.
Again if checking fails it Checks 10%. In this if rejection is more than 2%, NCR
(Non Conformance Report) is made and sent to concerned merchant.
Note:
A report at each stage is sent to the concerned merchant for approval/rejection.
For rejected trims, debit note is made and sent to accounts department mentioning
P.O no, quantity, rate, amount.
Thread consumption: Department also finds out the thread consumption. After
finding out thread consumption it is confirmed with the concerned factory. Factory
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finds out the consumption at its side. Comparison of both is done and approval is
given to the minimum.
11. WASHING UNIT
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The Company has recognized the importance of having state of the art wet processing
facility to backup its world class production facility. To achieve this goal, the company
has brought experts from other countries to develop washes and to manage the laundry.
This is also complemented with Capital investment in buying world class washing
equipments.
The company has centralized washing unit to fulfil its all washing and wet processing
needs, located at D-16, Industrial Estate, Ambattur.
In general the quality of the laundry is related to many factors such as:
Quality of the equipment used: washer, dryer etc
Quality of the chemical used: all imported from Europe
The follow up and proper execution of the laundry procedure with well trained
workers and staff, the quality of finished goods get enhanced.
11.1 Work flow in the washing unit for the bulk production
Goods Reception : All the goods after receiving are 100% checked for quality and
entered to the laundry production control systems into the daily washing status sheet
using this system we are able to know and control how many garments are received,
washed, issued and in progress for wet process as well as dry process.
Unwashed Quality Audit: Goods received into laundry for wash are checked before
wash for any quality issue such as fabric defects, sewing quality, uncut sewing thread etc.
100% check need to be done for 1st bulk including 32 pieces, and 10% for normal
production. Only when the goods are perfect it will be cleared for wash. If any defects are
found, it will be registered into the Pre-wash quality check reports sheets, and the
defective garments are kept aside. The Pre-wash audit form is then signed by the quality
assurance manager from the laundry and forwarded to manufacturing manager and QC
manager along with the defective goods for their inspection. We wait for the comment
from the sewing plant whether we can proceed with wash or return the goods for the repair
work. After getting approval from the manufacturing plant, the pre-wash quality check
report form get signed by FM and QM and returned back to laundry than the goods are
proceed for wash.
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First bulk wash: No garment is allowed for washing without the approved wash
standards and the shade bands for the same style, after receiving all this, the wash recipe is
taken from the technical laundry department. The production and quality control work
sheet and recipe worksheet is created by the laundry systems in charge, attached to the
goods and handed over to the washing supervisor for the wash. Only for the first bulk
wash, the work sheet printed is green in colour for auditor’s identification. On the first
bulk, it is 100% quality check up for shade, hand, feel etc.
Bulk wash: Few garments representing the shade range from the first bulk will be
forwarded to the merchandiser for approval before laundry proceeds into further wash. For
any other issue not related to washing, they will inform the factory accordingly for future
care.
Merchandiser will sign the first bulk wash garment and will be accordingly to the laundry
for containing the bulk wash. The final production and quality control worksheet, repair
worksheet and chemical registration slip will be created into systems for the balance bulk
production.
Post wash quality: After drying, the goods are subjected to quality check at the laundry
by QC team. The goods are checked for the shade, hand feel, defects etc. the % of the total
garments check is starting from 20% for the basic wash ( rinse wash, soft wash) up 100%
for stone wash, dyeing and denim. The goods, which are not satisfying the shade, hand
feel, are sent back for re-wash, the number of the rewash garment is mentioned in the final
QC report as correctable pieces, for the goods satisfying the approved standard and shade
are packed and sent to manufacturing plant.
After that the travelling work sheet will be finalized and saved into laundry quality
systems computer.
Rinses and softener wash – 20% check
Enzyme wash, enzyme stone, denim and dye – 100% check
In general for the major defect as shade, holes, streaks etc. They stop washing until the
problem get resolved by looking again through the washing recipe and doing trails in
sampling before proceeding for bulk.
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Quality Department: The data from travelling work sheets are saved into the systems
that automatically generate the final QC report for daily production.
The laundry QC supervisor will analyze the final quality report of each order and update
the laundry on the quality issue and get it signed from QC manager and FM for further
action if it needs to be taken.
This final report allowed the production people to control better what they are producing
and stop the problem in the earlier stage. By this method the % of reject due to washing
are minimized.
Chemical Stocks: By using the chemical requisition slip, the quantity of all chemicals
has been saved through laundry systems, and automatically they will be able to check and
control their chemicals stocks daily.
List of washes given in the unit:
S.No. WASH S.No. WASH
1 Enzyme wash 22 Soda wash2 Enzyme wash-mild 23 Soap wash3 Enzyme wash-heavy 24 Water wash4 Bio wash 25 Crinkle wash5 Band wash 26 Distress wash6 Detergent wash 27 Colour fixing wash7 Stone wash 28 Mud wash8 Bio polish 29 Paper effect wash9 Anti pilling bio wash 30 Caustic wash10 Softner wash 31 Leather finishing wash11 Denim wash 32 Rubber finishing wash12 Denimax wash 33 Desize wash13 Dip wash 34 Starch wash14 Silicon wash 35 Ice wash15 Ball wash 36 Feather finish wash16 Silicon ball wash 37 Silky wash17 Rubber ball wash 38 Carbonised enzyme wash18 Optical brightness wash 39 Zinc vodka wash19 Vintage wash 40 Acid wash20 Tea stain wash 41 Stone enzyme wash21 Bleach wash
11.2 Laundry Machineries Details:
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Machine TypeBulk Wash
M/C Capacity Wash Capacity of Goods
No of M/C
Tenello 400 kg 120 kg 4Ramson 200 kg 60 kg 2Ramson 150 kg 60 kg 4
Machine Type sample Wash
M/C Capacity Wash Capacity of Goods
No of M/C
Ramson 35 kg 15 kg 4Ramson 20 kg 10 kg 3Ramson 5 kg 3 kg 2Ramson 3 kg 2 kg 1Tonello 17 kg 10 kg 1
Machine Type Dryer Capacity Wash Capacity of Goods
No of Dryer
Ramson 100 kg 60 kg 24
Note:
In general garments are dried between 55 to 60 degree centigrade and for the
delicate fabric the temperature followed would be 50 degree centigrade.
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12. PRODUCTION UNIT: ACL –SP 10/8
12.1 Introduction:
The second stage of our internship includes the study of manufacturing processes in the
Production unit. We had been allotted to carry out our study and project in the SP – 10/8.
The Unit is located on the third main road in the Ambattur industrial Estate at a distance
of 2.5 Kilometres from the Head office. It was earlier known as Southern Garments taken
over by ACL in April, 2000. The unit is a bottoms manufacturing Facility with the
production capacity of average 2000 pieces per day.
12.2 Fact Sheet - Ambattur Clothing Limited - SP - 10/8Total Area & Dept - Wise Area Of Facility
DEPARTMENT AREA ( SQ FT )
CUTTING 7268.19
PRODUCTION 11698.66
FINISHING 5550.83
COMPRESSOR & BOILER ROOM 748.52
GENERATOR ROOM 769.97
LADIES TOILET 734.37
GENTS TOILET 174.94
CANTEEN 2152.95
TOTAL AREA ( INCLUDING UNUSED ) 29098.43APPROX
HEIGHT OF THE COMPOUND WALL ( in feet ) 7.5
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Dept - Wise , Sex Wise Employee Strenght Of Facility
DEPARMENTWORKERS STAFF
MEN WOMEN MEN WOMENADMINISTRATION 0 0 4 2
CHECKING 10 16 1 0CUTTING 4 28 3 2IRONING 14 4 0 0
KAJA BUTTON 2 20 0 1MAINTENANCE 3 0 5 0
PACKING 5 4 4 0PRODUCTION 4 0 1 0
SEWING 27 202 9 1
STAIN - REMOVING 3 2 0 0STORES 3 1 2 0
TRIMMING 1 21 0 0
TOTAL 76 298 29 6
TOTAL STRENGHT OF THE FACTORY 409
Amenities Provided In The FacilityTOTAL NO OF FIRE EXITS 11
TOTAL NO OF FIRE EXTINGUISHERS 53
INDUSTRIAL TYPE EMERGENCY LIGHTS 13
FIRE ALARM POINTS 13
FIRST AID BOXES ( FULLY LOADED ) 6TOILETS (MEN) 6TOILET (WOMEN) 20CANTEEN CAPACITY 150MEDICAL CENTRE CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24
DAY CARE CENTRE CENTRALIZED AND PROVIDED AT SP-24
CommitteesNo. OF MEMBERS FREQUENCY OF MEETING
GRIEVANCE COMMITTEE 13 BI-MONTHLY
CANTEEN COMMITTEE 15 BI-MONTHLY
SAFETY COMMITTEE 14 BI-MONTHLY
12.3 Organizational Chart- SP 10/8
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13. LAYOUTS
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Mr. Mohan K Babu
General Manager
Mr. Radhakrishnan
Factory Manager
Mr. ShankarProduction Manager
Mr. Christopher FranklinQuality
Manager
Mr. Vasudevan
Defect Analyser
Mr. Wilson Store Incharge
Mr. MohanCutting Incharge
Sewing Line Incharge
( 3 )
Mr. Ramakrshna
Finishing Incharge
Supervisor( 4 per line)
Mr. MillerPackaging Incharge
Mr. BabuIroning
Incharge
Mr. SigamaniButton and Button hole
Quality Controller / Checkers
(5)
13.1 Cutting Department Layout:
13.2 Sewing Department Layout
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13.3 Finishing Department Layout
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13.4 Packaging Department Layout
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14. STORES
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The unit has in-house store for the fabric and trims issued from the MMC which stores the
goods for the production period. The store is divided into two sections:
1. Fabric store
2. Trims store
14.1 Fabric Store:
Process flow:
14.1.1 A brief description of the process flow:
Fabric receiving: Fabric required for the production is issued from the MMC in the roll
form. The factory maintains Goods receiving note (GRN) for the every issue. The GRN
contains following information:
Buyer no:
Style no:
Colour:
Width:
Date Factory Delivery
challan no.
Length(in
metres)
Grand Total Total no of
Rolls
Fabric storage: The fabrics received are first shade wise segregated and placed on the
storage racks. However, final segregation is done according to the shade as well as the
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Fabric issue to cutting
Fabric received from MMC
Fabric storage
shrinkage percentage. The fabric rolls contains specification stickers which contains
following information:
BARCODE
PO No.( purchase order number) Lf No.(Ledger folio no.)
Code Colour
Bale/DC Qty/Mtr
Po Width Actual width
Weight Less:0.5:
Supplier code No. Batch
Fabric Description
Count Construction
Takka No. Buyer code
The shade and shrinkage family name is manually written over each roll after receiving
the shrinkage report from MMC.
Fabric issue to the cutting Department: Now according to the time and action plan (in
which cutting date is mentioned), the fabric is issued to the cutting department and log
book is maintained in the cutting department which contains following information:
Style No. :
Buyer Name :
Fabric Colour :
Fabric :
Garment Description:
Order quantity :
Fit of the Garment:
Fusing to be used :
Warp shrinkage (%): Weft shrinkage (%):
14.2 Trims Store:
Process Flow:
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FABRIC SAMPLE
14.2.1 A brief description of the process flow:
Trims receiving: According to the style and order quantity trims and accessories are
issued from the MMC and received to the production unit. Here also, Goods receiving
note is maintained, which contain following details:
D.C. receiving date D. C. No Style No Items Nos.
Trims storage: According to the type and quantity trims and accessories are kept in the
designated racks placed in the store. The list of different types of trims and accessories are
given below:
Labels:
Main label (contains brand name and trademark)
Tab label (contains detail about company)
Care content label (contains content of the fabric)
Size label (size of the garment)
Wash care label (wash care instructions)
Vendor ID label (contains name of the vendor)
Buttons
Zippers
Locker loop
BTW tape
Trims release: A trim card is made for each and every order containing all the
qualitative and quantitative trims specifications needed for that order. Exact samples
for each item are also attached on the card for identification. It also includes the
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Trims received from MMC
Trims storage
Trims release for the sewing
information about the buyer, style, ACL style, GMT (garment), Quantity. The
accessories are matched with the samples and then issued to the sewing department.
15. CUTTING DEPARTMENT
The department receives marker plan from the E2 unit which consist of following
information:
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Marker length
Marker width
Buyer name
Version
Sizes
Marker efficiency
According to the marker plan spreading is planned and a Lay Slip is maintained in the
following format:
Format no Item code
Version Fabric width
Lot no Lay length
Book no Colour
Style no No of layers
Name of buyer Sizes
Counted by Lay starting time
Name of cutter Lay finishing time
QC name & checked by Shade
H.O.D
Lay starting and lay finishing time helps the supervisor in monitoring the hourly target for
the spreading:
Target - 40 plies/hr (approx.)
Spreader also maintains the spreading particulars in Lay Info slip as following:
Date - 18/5/07 Lay length - 5.23 mts
Cut no - 1 Lay width - 51”
Sizes - XS, S, M, L
Colou
r
Roll no Quantity Shade Takka no No of plies Balance Lay sequence
Black 5404 61 A 11 3.70 1
Process flow in Cutting Department:
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Roll segregation
Roll opening
Fabric inspection
Fabric relaxation
Lay relaxation
Cutting
Fusing
Spreading
Ticketing and bundling of cut parts
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Approved bundle
Bit end storage
Disapproved bundle
Cut part inspection
Cutting storage
Damage cutting and replacement
Cutting storage
15.1 A brief description of the process flow in Cutting Department:
Roll segregation: The fabrics issued for the production are first numbered. Pre wash and
after wash samples are taken from each roll and they are categorized in the three families
that are A, B and C. The categorization is based on the number of factors like colour,
shade, shrinkage. But the major factors considered here are shrinkage percentage (max.
2.5%*1.0%) and shade variation.
Fabric opening and inspection: At this stage the fabric rolls are put on the clamp placed
on the inspection table and the rolls are opened in the opposite direction so that the fabric
can slide down easily and simultaneously the inspection is also carried out and the fabric
is being kept in relaxed / loose form on fabric relaxation trolley for 2-5 hours.
Spreading and relaxation: In this process, first a brown paper is spread over the table
which is fixed on the table by the cellotape. After that the fabric is laid flat over the table
so that the uniformity in the fabric can be obtained while cutting. For this purpose,
generally wooden scales are used to remove the wrinkles and crimps. Lay weights (iron
blocks) are also used for keeping the correct fabric alignment. The spreading table used
are made up of wooden base with plywood surface mounted on the steel stand. The
dimensions of the table are 11m*1.5m*1m (length*breadth*height).The ply cutting or the
lay cutting for the spreading purpose is done by the rotary cutter. Generally 75-125 lays
are put in one spread and average height of the lay is 3.75 inches. The lays are kept for the
period of 5-12 hours for the proper relaxation. However, the relaxation time depends on
the nature of the fabric, temperature and relative humidity at the work. In spreading, the
lay length and fabric consumption calculation are done on the basis of CAD marker.
Cutting: The CAD marker needed for the cutting comes from the E2 / E3 units, are
actually size set samples markers. These markers are further manually modified by the
cutting master as per the modification needed for the bulk production. Now, are placed
over the spreaded lay and cutting is carried out with the help of straight knife. Band knifes
are also used for cutting smaller and complicated parts while Drill markers are used for
making holes for the marking purposes.
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Fusing: The fabric cut parts which require fusing before the stitching are sent to the
fusing section. It has two fusing machines. The temperature of fusing machine is set
according to-
The type of thermal shrinkage of the shell fabric
The type of interlining used
The type of fusible resin (polyethylene, polypropylene, polyester etc)
The type of fusing whether it is double, reverse or sandwich fusing.
The section also maintains the Daily Fusing and Bonding Strength Report in the following format:
Buyer style-BR-514519 Date-31/05/07Temp Pressure Time Bonding strength Length in inches Width in inches
Sample ◦C Kg/sq cm Sec GMS Before After Change Before After ChangeF Noon 125 1.5 11 800 4 4 - 3 3 -A Noon 125 1.5 11 800 4 4 - 3 3 -
Factory ACL-SP 10/8 Interlining-P*313
F Noon Sample A Noon Sample
The fusing equipment must provide control over three major factors as instructed by R&D
Department:
Time
Temperature
Pressure
Machine setting is also checked after every two hours and recorded in Fusing Report:
Date 8:30 10:30 12:30 3:00 5:00 Signature31/05/07 125◦C 125◦C 125◦C 125◦C 125◦C
Fusing defects are also checked and record is maintained as
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Date Setting No bubbling
No colour change
Bonding strength
Any other SignatureCE
FN AN F N AN FN AN FN AN FN AN31/05/07
Ticketing and Bundling: After that the cut parts are allotted with ticket number and
stickers are used for this purpose, which consist whole description about the part and now
the bundling is done. The cut parts of similar types are put in one bundle. However, the
number of cut pieces in a bundle varies with the production runs and the sizes. The
stickering operators are issued with the list of numbers, which has to be stuck on the cut
parts. Each operator has the following info to stick the tickets issued by the department.
Example:
Lot no Version DateDestination Cut no TimeStyle No. Lay length Page No.
Colour Size Takka no Bundle no Pcs FPLY TPLYLilly rose XS 4962(D)83, 3930(E)85 7192450 20 83 102
S 4962(D)309, 3930(E)311 7192454 20 309 328M 4962(D)227, 3930(E)229 7192458 20 227 246L 4962(D)83, 3930(E)85 7192462 20 83 102
Operators adjust their ticketing gun according to the numbers issued to them and three
different stickers are put on the every cut piece. The placement of label/sticker on the cut
pieces is pre decided in the pre production meeting.
Sticker Details:
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324702ZB500267 * 3/2/USA/ SHADOW
Style number
Lot No. * Cut No. / Size serial /Destination / Colour
[Ply No.] No. of pieces8208344 – 31/30[71-73] 35 - Fly
Bundle No. – Size / Inseam
Parts name
Cut part inspection: The cut parts are inspected as per the damages and the ticket
number and if any discrepancies are found they are sent to bit end storage section other
wise bundle is approved and sent to the sewing department by the trolleys. For confirming
proper cut quality 100% panel checking is done as well as from each cut block top, middle
and bottom panel are matched against original pattern as well as each other for the exact
and even measurements.
Bit end storage: Here end bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept and if any
damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again parts are cut and
damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same ticket number is allotted to
that particular cut piece and sent to the sewing departments.
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ZBJO33742 (B) Takka No. ( Shade)
15.2 Machinery and Table details in the Cutting department:
15.2.1 Tables:
Tables No. No. of worker/tableSpreading table 5 2Inspection table 2 4
Cutting table 2 3Damage cutting 1 5
Ticketing 1 3Bundling 1 7
15.2.2 Machinery:
Machine No. Operators/machine Make/ ModelStraight knife 2 1 Eastman machine Co.
2 1 Blue Streak BS2Band knife 2 1 KM bk-700
Drill marker 1 1 Eastman machine Co. CD3Rotary cutter 1 3 Ngai Shing NS-71
Fusing machine 2 3 Hashima2 2 Kannegiesser
Rod Clamp 1 2 LocalStickering machine 5 1 BlitzTextile Mod.2234
15.2.3 Miscellaneous:
Items No. MakeRacks 5 Local
Trolleys 10 LocalFans/Table 5 Orient/Usha
Tube light/Table 10 EliteExhaust fan 10 Gec AlsthomLay weights 10 Local
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15.3 Quality Checking In Cutting Room
15.3.1 Spreading operator procedures for Spreading auditor:
S.NO. WHAT WHY HOW WHO WHEN1 Narrow
goodsTo ensure that all the plies extend
beyond the marker line.
Visual inspection by checking far
edge of the lay with marker line
Quality controller
At random during laying and after
the completion of lay before cut.
2 count To ensure correct quality of the lay
as well as to ensure that plies
extend to the table marking
line at both sides/ends.
By counting plies at both
ends of the lay.
Quality controller
After spread is finished and
before the cut.
3 Leaning edge
To ensure that one edge of the lay is square to
the table.
Visual inspection
Quality controller
At random during the laying and
after completion of lay before cut.
4 Marker To make sure that marker is not
over torn, over lapped, creased,
damaged or altered
Visual inspection and check against
original patterns
Quality controller/ supervisor
After marker is put on lay and
before cut.
5 Marker placement
To ensure that all cut part are complete
Marker should be placed parallel to
selvedge of the lay i.e. visual
inspection
Quality controller/
Cutter
After marker is put on lay and
before cut
6 Tension To ensure that spread is not slack or tight,
very much important for
knits and stretch fabrics.
Visual inspection
Quality controller/spreader
At random during laying
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15.3.2 Standard operation procedures for cutting supervisor:
S.No. WHAT WHY HOW WHO WHEN1 Check actual
temperatureTo check against
RnD specification for conformity
Thermal stripe/ digital meter
Quality controller
Once in 2 hours
2 Check actual time
To check against RnD specification
for conformity
Stop Watch Quality controller
Morning and evening
3 Visual check To ensure no discolouration, no
adhesive, no bubbling coming
out shell
Visual Quality controller
Once in 2 hours
4 Bond strength test
To ensure durability of
bonding
Spring balance/ manual
Quality controller
Morning and Afternoon as
per the buyer’s
specification5 Durability
washTo check bond strength and variation in shrinkage
Quality controller
Once in a day
6 Mocks of fusing parts (interlining placement)
As a ready reference for parts
that are to be fused
Visual display Cutting supervisor
During entire run of the
style
7 Fusing specification
As a ready reference
By interlining test report or approved fusing specification
Cutting supervisor
During entire run of the
style
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15.3.3 Standard operation procedures for fusing mechanic:
S.No. WHAT WHY HOW WHO WHEN1 Temperature To set the fusing
machine as per the RnD or approved
specification
Stripe/ digital meter
Mechanic / Quality controller
Morning and after noon
2 Time To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved
specification
Stop Watch Mechanic / Quality controller
Morning and after noon
3 Pressure To set the fusing machine as per the RnD or approved
specification
Control knobs Mechanic / Quality controller
Morning and after noon
4 Machine cleaning
Daily maintenance As per the manufacturer’
s manual guidelines
mechanic As stipulated by the
manufacturer
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16. SEWING DEPARTMENT
The sewing department consists of the actual work floor in the production unit. The cut
parts are received from the cutting department and data is recorded in the following
format:
Style: Date:
Country: Time:
S. no. Cut no Marker Colour Size From bundle To bundle F Ply T Ply1. 3 3 Black M 7192827 7192836 277 4762. 3 4 Black L 7192837 7192846 180 379
Prepared by Issued by Received by Cutting supervisor
After receiving the cut parts they are again counted by the receiver to counter check. The
setting and process flow of the sewing department changes with every order. Before the
execution of the order, the operation breakdown of the garment is done and operation
bulletin is made. The operation bulletin acts as the tool for the line balancing and helps in
production target achievement. According to this breakdown the sewing line is set so that
the through put time can be reduced for the smooth production flow. The production
bulletin prepared for the sewing comes from the CIED department.
All sewing operators are provided with a production slips (time sheet) in which bundle
stickers are stuck as soon as bundle operation gets completed. The work slips are counted
after every two hours to prepare the manual production report as well as the barcode are
scanned and hourly production status is fed into the production management system. It
helps to check the efficiency of each operator at regular intervals. At the end of the day
total production report is made.
There are five checkpoints in each line to check the quality. If any problem occurs the
production manager and executives gets into immediate action and rectification is done for
producing any quality garment.
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The sewing department is divided into four parts:
1. Line A
2. Line B
3. Line C and
4. Kaja Section
16.1 Line Section:
Lines A, B, and C are general sewing line which execute all the main sewing operations.
The workflow of the section has been described below with the help of ANN TAYLOR
ladies bottom order which was running during our tenure.
The garment style has been divided into nine groups and further subdivided into detailed
production procedures. The Operation breakdown for the style is as follows:
1.FLYMake FlyboxTurn FlyboxPress FlyboxSerge Fly & FlyboxTopstitch FlyboxTack Flybox O/L Threads
2.WAIST BANDMake Top Waistband FaceAttach Top Waistband Middle WaistbandJoin Waistband Panels (3 Pc)Dummy Stitch WaistbandPress WaistbandAttach Inner Waistband To Outer Waistband Mark WaistbandMake WaistbandTurn Waistband FaceAttach Tunnel Patch to WaistbandMake LableAttach Lable To Back
3.SIDE POCKETSerge Pocket FacingSerge Front Pocket Bag
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5.FRONTSerge Front RiseAttach And Topstitch FlyAttach Zipper To FlyAttach Flybox To ZipperTopstitch Front With Flybox And ZipperAttach Facing Scoop Pocket to FrontTurn And Press Front PocketTopstitch Front Pocket MouthAttach Pocket To forntStay Stitch Front Pocket At Side And WaistSew J-StitchSew Front Rise
6.BACKMark Back For Welt Pocket And DartSew DartsPress Back DartTopstitch Dart All roundSerge Pocket FacingMake Welt PocketTurn WeltPress WeltTack WeltTopstitch Down WeltTopstitch Top WeltSerge Welt Pocket BagPattern Stitch On Welt Pocket BagAttach Back Pocket Flap To BackTopstitch Back Pocket Flap
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4.BACK FLAPMake FlapTurn Flap (Rectangular)Topstitch Flap Ready Cut FlapAttach Tab to Flap
7.SUB ASSEMBLYMatch Front With BackSew Side SeamTopstitch Side SeamSew InseamSew Back RiseTopstitch Back RiseTopstitch Back RiseAttach Label at Side
8.ASSEMBLYMark Body For Loops & WaistbandMatch Waistband With BodyAttach Waistband To BodyClose Waistband FaceTopstitch Waistband All aroundHem Bottom
9.FINISHINGAttach Button to WaistbandKeyhole WaistbandAttach Button To BackKeyhole FlapBartack Crotch & FlyBartack Front PocketBartack Welt PocketAttach Snap To Waistband (Female)Attach Snap Button (Male)
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16.2 Kaja Section:
Process Flow:
16.2.1 A brief description of the process flow:
Kaja Marking and Making: This Section receives the sewn garments. Initially
templates and pins are used to mark the kaja position. Now kaja are made the marked
position by the specialised machine.
Button Marking and Attaching: Similarly with the help of button attaching machine
buttons are attached at the marked positions.
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Kaja Marking
Kaja Making
Button Marking
Button attach
Button shank wrapping
Sticker removing
Button and Kaja checking
Button Shank wrapping: Now the button shank is wrapped by the button shank
wrapping machine to provide strength and tight hold to the buttons on the fabric surface.
Button and Kaja checking: There is a separate inspection table for the kaja section where
proper button and kaja placement and alignment are checked. If any discrepancies found
they are again sent back for correction.
Sticker Removing: Now finally stickers are removed from the garments and they are
further sent to the washing or the finishing department.
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16.3 Quality Checking In Sewing Room
Each production step is followed by a quality checking point. The quality parameters that
are taken into consideration at each quality check points for bottoms are described as
follows:
Quality Checking Scope for Front:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch and SPI: 10-12 for attaching.
2. Front pocket opening should be both ways (horizontal and vertical)
3. J- stitch width 1 3/8” and J- stitch should be per pattern shape with 1/4” DNLS
4. Front rise attaching should be on curve and avoid puckering.
5. Front pocket top stitch should be even and avoid puckering.
6. Front top stitch and front pocket opening should be 5/16” DNLS.
7. Front pocket shape should be as per the pattern and both ways identical, avoid high
and low.
8. Down fly shape should be as per the pattern.
9. Front pocket opening should be 1/8” loose.
10. Front pocket bag seam piping should be even all around.
Quality Checking Scope For Back:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Back pocket dart DNTS distance should be 5/16”
3. Flap should be centred to welt with 5/16” DNTS.
4. Back welt pocket should be balanced both sides.
5. Back pocket DNTS should be 5/16” even all around and as per the pattern shape.
6. Button hole should be centred to the flap.
7. Back welt pocket smiling not allowed
8. Back pocket bag seam piping should be even all around.
9. Avoid pocket high low both ways (horizontal and vertical).
10. Flap tab should be centred to the flap.
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Quality checking scope for side attachment:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Side seam DNTS width should be 5/16” even in both the panels.
3. Side seam over lock quality should be neat and clean with SPI: 10
4. Edge stitch should be on the right side of the wearer.
5. Avoid loose and skip stitches at the double needle top stitch.
6. avoid puckering at inseam over lock and SPI should be 14
7. Back rise DNTS should be ¼” and avoid puckering and loose stitches.
8. Front rise should be single needle edge stitch.
Quality Checking Scope For Waist Band Attachment:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Waist band joint and side seam should match.
3. Waist band attaching seam margin should be even.
4. Avoid puckering while waist band attaching.
5. Waist band high low is not allowed.
6. Waist band centre front should be straight.
7. Crotch joint should match.
8. Main label should centre to the waist band at centre back.
9. Back pocket and lip high low should be avoided.
10. Face closing should be straight and avoid run off stitches.
Quality checking scope for end of the line:
1. SPI: 7 for top stitch.
2. Waist band height 1 ¾” even all over.
3. Waist band finishing should be proper , avoid puckering and roping.
4. Waist band high low not allowed.
5. Waist band roping inside not allowed.
6. Waist band top stitch should be even avoid joint stitches.
7. Waist band should be straight at centre front between hem height ½” double fold
while roping and puckering should be avoided.
8. Waist band lip should be ½” even all around.
9. Eye let placement should be as per the sample
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16.4 Machine and Equipment details in sewing department:
16.4.1 Machines:
Machine No. Make No. of operator/ machineSNLS (without UBT) 18 JUKI 1
2 Brother 1SNLS (with UBT) 120 JUKI 1
20 Brother 13- Thread overlock 4 JUKI 14- Thread overlock 3 JUKI 15- Thread overlock 15 JUKI 1Welt pocket maker 2 Beiser 1SNLS Edge cutter 18 JUKI 1
Chain stitch 10 JUKI 12 Brother 1
Double needle lock stitch 40 JUKI 1Snap attaching 4 Ngai Shing 1
Feed of arm 2 JUKI 1Bartack 7 Brother 1
Keyhole (kaza) 2 Brother 1Button attach 2 JUKI 1Button hole 3 JUKI 1
1 Brother 1Button shank wrapping 1 Ascolite 1
16.4.2 Miscellaneous:
Items No. MakeChecking tables 18 Local
Hangers 9 LocalFans 90 Orient/Usha
Tube light 312 EliteExhaust fan 7 Gec Alsthom
Chairs 270 Local
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17. FINISHING DEPARTMENT
The machine setting and work flow of the finishing department also changes with the
order and style. The process flow described below is according to the ANN TAYLOR
ladies bottom order.
Process Flow:
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Washed Garment received
Draw cord
Trimming
Stitching repair
Stain removal
Bulk ironing
2nd Garment checking
Security label attaching Tag attaching Final stain removing Belt tieing Final ironing and folding
Inside Checking
Thread suckering
17.1 A brief description of the process flow in Finishing Department:
Washed Garment Receiving: The unit do not have the in-house washing department so
the garments are sent to the central washing unit at D-16. Generally, it takes one day for
the washing and washed garments are received after one day.
Draw Cord: This step is for this style only as per the design requirement.
Trimming: After this the garments are sent to the trimming table, where extra thread is
trimmed from the garment and a trimming report is also maintained as follows:
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Draw cord tacking
Measurement Checking
Security label attaching
Tag attaching
Final stain removing
Belt tieing
Final ironing & folding
S. No Name of Operator
9:15 10:15 11:15 … ... … …. 5:00
1. 22 22 222. 22 10 203.4.5.
13. 22 10 20Total 242 235 240
Grand total 477 2190
Inside Checking: After receiving the garments, inside checking is done to check out
defects like broken stitches, skip stitches and uncut threads etc. After checking the
garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment, inspected by her. Each sticker
has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out which garment is being
inspected by which checker. A set format is given to each checker to maintain the record
of defects at various areas like A/H, cuffs etc. It also helps to find out the total garments
inspected by the checker and percentage defectives found.
Stitch Repairing: In case of any sewing defect the respective garments are sent back to
sewing line to repair it immediately. However, finishing department has its own tailors to
repair the minor faults. To rectify defects, checker puts the clip at the defective garments
after tying the defective area with the help of thread. Each clip has a particular no assigned
to each checker. After repairing the garments are sent back to the respective checker to
recheck
Stain Removing: As each garment suffers multiple handling right from receiving the
fabric to the finishing, it leads to stain marks on the garments. So, the garments are sent to
stain removal section to remove the stains from the garments. These stains are removed by
stain removal guns in which white petrol is used to remove the stains. Sometime they also
use stain removing sprays. Here, also each operator sticks the particular sticker assigned to
her to track out the garment handled by her.
Thread suckering: Now the garments are exposed to the thread sucker machine where the
left over cut threads are sucked from the garments.
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Bulk ironing: The department has fourteen pressing work stations, where the garments
are passed for the pressing.
2nd checking: Now the garments are sent to 2nd checking to find out fabric defects, shade
variation, shape distortion (bottom shape, cuff and placket shape etc.), minor stitching
defects etc. After checking the garment each checker has to stick a sticker at each garment,
inspected by her. Each sticker has a particular number assigned to that checker to track out
which garment is being inspected by which checker.
At the 1st checking stage, major concern is stitching defects and extra threads only.
Draw cord tacking: This step is also style specific as per the design of this garment only.
Measurement Checking: The garments are now sent to the measurement checking table
where all critical measurements are taken and matched according to the specifications and
tolerance.
Security Label attaching: This is also a buyer specified attachment as in this style RFID
security labels are attached.
Tag attaching: Here price tags and wash care labels along with the extra buttons are
attached with the garment.
Final Stain removing: Again stain removing is done by the sprayer before final packing.
Belt tieing: This is also specific to this style only as per the buyer specification.
Final folding and packing: It is the final step in which garment is folded as per the
packing instructions and packed in the poly bags.
All garments are passed to needle detection machine to meet the safety compliance
of the buyer before the packing. But it is done for a few buyers only.
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17.2 Machine and Equipment details in finishing department:
17.2.1 Machines:
Machine No. Operators/machine Make/ ModelNeedle detector 1 2 HASIMA/ HN740 G
Pressing work station 14 1 Ramsons VeilThread sucker 1 1 Ramsons
17.2.2 Miscellaneous:
Items No. MakeChecking tables 55 Local
Storage bin 3 RamsonsFans 48 Orient/Usha
Tube light 143 Elite
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18. PACKAGING DEPARTMENT
Process Flow:
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Receive finished garment
Shade checking
Placing shade sticker
Garment alignment check
Barcode scanning
Size sorting
Packing in carton
Sent to store
Packet concealing
18.1.1 A brief description of the process flow in Packaging Department:
The finished garments kept in the polyethylene bag are sent to the packaging Department,
where firstly shade checking is done in order to the matching the shade written on the
polyethylene bag with the actual garment pieces. Shade checking is done on a ordinary
wooden table with tube light mounted on the top by the stand and the inspection area is
enclosed from three side by thermocol sheets. After that packets are sent to another table,
where an operator puts shade sticker on the approved packets and another worker conceal
the packet after checking the proper alignment of the garment inside the packet. Now, the
barcode scanning of the packed garment pieces is done and all data are fed into the
computer. Scanned pieces are stacked and separated on the basis of sizes and shades on
the other table, where garment polybags are kept in the cardboard cartons and cartons are
concealed by the adhesive tape. Only 10 pieces of garments are kept in one carton. These
cartons are again sent to the stores by the trolleys and one trolley has the capacity of 18
cartons. The carton dimensions and specifications are given by buyer. Generally two
dimensions are used i.e. for bottoms – 37*30*18 cm3 and for shirts – 66 *39* 22.5 cm3.
18.2 Equipment Details in packaging Department:
Items No. Model/MakeTables 3 Local
Barcode reader 1 ARGOXWeighing machine 1 F6AP/ ATCO
Fans 6 UshaTube 12 Philips
Exhaust fans 6 UshaTrolleys 5 Local
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18.3 Polybag, Barcode, Carton Sticker Details
Descriptions printed on the Polybags:
Example:
DEPT #69STYLE #208993
COLOUR #7440SIZE #6PP.O. #971875
SHADE GROUP B
Barcode details fed in the Computer per carton:
Example:
CTN NO. SHADE COLOUR SIZE ACT PCS SCAN PCS389 A SEA- SIDES OOP 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES OP 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 2P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 4P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 6P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 8P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 10P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 12P 1 1389 A SEA- SIDES 14P 1 1
Sticker details on the carton:
Example:
P.O.(Purchase order number)# 972130DEPT 59 - MISSY
STYLE 203860COLOUR 1295
SHADE LOT ASIZEQTY 10 pcs.
PACK SKU 81230815DIM 37*30*18 cms
GROSS WEIGHT 4.450 Kgs.NET WEIGHT 3.700 Kgs.PACK RATIO OOP/1 OP/2 2P/3 4P/2 6P/2 8P/2 10P/2 12P/1
14P/1 TTL/14
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19. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT
To ensure the right quality of the product is one of the important objectives of the
company. Therefore, Quality control is applied at every stage of the garment i.e.
spreading, cutting, sewing, washing, finishing and packaging..
There is 100% inline inspection and end line inspection for the garments. Hourly reports
are made for the checking and follow up of the repairs.
Statistical process control technologists are employed to improve on the quality standards.
In ACL Statistical process control starts from laying and cutting. An Statistical process
control checker fills up the spread quality report and control quality report, there reports
indicates any defects or imperfections in tension of lay, pattern sizes, width variation etc.
In sewing Four Statistical process control checkers carry out Statistical process control
checking at 4 critical points, also the factory quality control team go on taking rounds of
line. The merchandiser, buyer, quality checker and R&D people come for inspection too.
AQL (Accepted Quality level) is set as per the buyer recommendations.
The number of inline checkers and end line checkers are as follows:-
Inline checkers: 3
End line checkers: 2
19.1 List of the details to be checked in Cutting Department:
SL. NO
Version
Style No
Fabric
Cut No
Lay Length
No. Piles
Table Marking
Marker Placing
Ends
Marrow Goods
Leaning
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Tension
Counts
Marker
Total Defects
Sign QC
Cutting Super
19.2 List of the defects checked during the inline and end line checking,
and the quality audits:
fabric defects
colour shading
broken stitches
skip stitches
uneven SPI
loose stitches
insecure button/snap
high low
raw edge
needle holes
unwanted pleats
missing operation
run off stitch
incorrect labels
stains/dirt marks
stickers
uncut thread
out tolerance
19.3 Audit Flow Chart in Ambattur Clothing Limited
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19.3.1 Sample Selection Techniques at different stages of the Quality Audit:
Type of Audit No of samples
Total no of the samples Rejection level
before finishing 7 Total production one hour
2 minor/ 1 major defect
Before wash/ after finishing
7 500 2 minor/ 1 major defect
After wash 7 500 2 minor/ 1 major defect
NOTE:
After external audit is done buyer representative is invited for the audit. The AQL
depends on the buyer. E.g. the AQL for Levis is 2.5 whereas for J-JILL it is zero
(0).
All the quality inspection sheets are in the annexure.
20. MAINTAINENCE DAPARTMENT
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Before Wash Audit
After Wash Audit
Before Packaging Audit
External Audit by R&D Department
The department is run by two senior mechanics and three helpers who ensure the smooth
running of the production. The responsibilities of maintenance department can be divided
as follows:
1) Preventive maintenance
2) Break down maintenance
3) Spares inventory
4) Arrangement of machines, folders and attachments
5) General maintenance
6) Work shop
20.1 Preventive Maintenance Procedure
Daily check schedule of mechanics (during working hours) includes:
20.1.1 Mechanical maintenance: on daily basis
Needle point sharpness, bent
Oil leakage
SPI
Seam quality
Thread path
Attachment positions / alignment
20.1.2 Electrical maintenance:
One electrician takes care of all the sewing floor and checks all the live lines for
insulation.
Weekly inspection and cleaning of all the electrical lines of any foreign materials
and rectifying loose connections
Cleaning of panel boards on a fortnightly basis
20.2 Breakdown Maintenance
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20.2.1 Mechanical maintenance:
Each line is attended by a mechanic who will take care of breakdown maintenance in that
line and his functions can be summarized as follows:
Reports to chief mechanic who looks after all the lines.
Maintains a breakdown log book where the machine down time is noted.
Machines with major problems are sent to the workshop.
Line mechanic also maintenance a log book for broken and blunt needles.
20.2.2 Electrical maintenance:
An electrician is also deputed to take care of electrical maintenance on the sewing floors
Any major problems are reported to head of breakdown maintenances.
20.3 Spares Inventory
It includes:
Following buyer compliance
Maintaining needle log book
Broken needle is affixed completely ( including the broken part ) in the prescribed
format
If the broken part cannot be traced, the garment around that particular area will be
passed through needle detector
Blunt and bent needles are collected in a sealed box and audited by the concerned
buyer the QC every so often.
Needle detector is calibrated twice a day with the gauges and readings are
documented.
20.4 Arrangement of Machines, Folders, and Attachments
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The machines, attachments and folders requirement list for new style is given by
the production manager at pre production meeting
The requirement list is reconciled with the stores stock and items that are not
available indented giving the full specification of the purchase department
All the materials that are received from supplier are checked 100% for quality and
specification by the store keeper. The material stock is updated in the spares
registers with all the relevant details.
20.5 General Maintenance
It includes following:
Cleaning the machines completely from stand to machine head
Cleaning of oil ( taking the foreign materials from the oil reservoir)
All machines are provided with eye guard and finger guard
The band knife and cloth cutting machines operators are given metal gloves to
avoid accidents
All power points are provided with earthing to avoid accidents.
20.6 Workshop
Workshop involves the repair and fabrication of the damaged machine and machine parts.
Folders and attachments are as per the requirements of sewing line. Some of the
attachments fabricated here are also sent to other units of the company.
21. PROJECT
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AIM: Cutting and Sewing Department Process Analysis for increasing productivity in the
SP 10/8 unit.
DURATION: 7 days
METHODOLOGY APPLIED: Analysis of test reports and working procedures to find
out the deviation from the standard operating procedures.
INSPECTION AREA GIVEN BY THE FACTORY MANAGER:
In Cutting Department:
Shrinkage and shade sorting
Fabric relaxation
Cut Quality
Damage Cutting
Production time
In Sewing Department:
Pre production operation
In line Problems
DATA COLLECTION AND ANALYSIS:
In cutting Department:
Shrinkage and shade sorting: The test report sent by the MMC is followed and
proper roll segregation is done. Therefore there is not any problem.
Fabric relaxation: recommended fabric and lay relaxation time is given so problem
regarding uneven lay length and stretching is not found. Lay checking is also
carried out and the bowing is corrected by making notches as well as pulling the
fabric in opposite direction.
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Cut Quality: lay height is set according to the buyer specification as well as the
nature of the fabric. For confirming proper cut quality 100% panel checking is
done as well as from each cut block top, middle and bottom panel are matched
against original pattern as well as each other for the exact and even measurements.
So, there is no problem regarding the cut Quality.
Damage Cutting: End bit of the fabric which is in production run are kept in store
and if any damage part in the bundle is found then according to the shade again
parts are cut and damaged parts are replaced in the bundle. Thus, again the same
ticket number is allotted to the cut pieces and sent to the sewing departments.
Production time: There is no time lag has been found in the cutting room. All
orders are cut before or on the scheduled time.
Suggestions:
The marker efficiency is generally 70% so there is no measures have been taken to
utilize waste fabric in constructive way. Those can be used for the operators
training as well as for their stitch practices.
Whenever new blade is fed in the straight knife frayed edges and wavy marks are
seen on the lay sides. This should not be ignored.
The capacity of the cutting room is under utilization, it can take approx. 5% more
orders.
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In Sewing Department:
1. Pre production operation:
Production manager, executive and supervisor make the operation breakdown
according to the CIED recommendation as well as the convenience and comfort of
operators. This is done 3 days before the production in the pre production meeting.
Operators and tailors are assigned for the each and every operation in one day
advance.
List of the machineries and folders required for the production are given to the
maintenance department three to seven days in advance.
Capacity of the operator: at the time when any critical operation or bottleneck is
found in the line, then by time study operator’s capacity for an hour is calculated
by production manager/ executive.
Production executive / supervisor also analyses the way of stitching and operator’s
feedback may suggest some new innovative ideas for doing that operation.
Therefore nothing objectionable found in the preproduction operations.
2. Inline Problems:
Absenteeism: Through out the period of our internship we observed it as a one of the
major problem in order to increase productivity. This leads to major line imbalancement
and every day undesirable time and production is lost due to this. Therefore some time it is
difficult to overcome the start up losses. However, a full function line can produce up to
850 pieces per day but it is rarely achieved. It also causes non uniformity in the stitches as
different people have different way of stitching. Due to absence of a skilled tailor, stitch
quality also deteriorates as well as that place has to fill with two semi skilled operators.
The absenteeism percentage in Line A is given below for the reference.
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INDUSTRY INTERNSHIP AT AMBATTUR CLOTHING LIMITED, CHENNAI Page 105
Date Absenteeism % Workers present
7-Jun-07 12.94118 74
8-Jun-07 10.58824 76
9-Jun-07 7.058824 79
11-Jun-07 16.47059 71
12-Jun-07 12.94118 74
13-Jun-07 10.58824 76
14-Jun-07 11.76471 75
15-Jun-07 11.76471 75
16-Jun-07 11.76471 75
18-Jun-07 11.76471 75
19-Jun-07 11.76471 75
20-Jun-07 11.76471 75
21-Jun-07 11.76471 75
22-Jun-07 11.76471 75
23-Jun-07 11.76471 75
25-Jun-07 11.76471 75
26-Jun-07 11.76471 75
27-Jun-07 8.235294 78
28-Jun-07 8.235294 78
29-Jun-07 8.235294 78
30-Jun-07 8.235294 78
2-Jul-07 8.235294 78
3-Jul-07 8.235294 78
4-Jul-07 10.58824 76
Graphical Representation of Absenteeism percentage in Line A
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
7-Jun-07
8-Jun-07
9-Jun-07
10-Jun-07
11-Jun-07
12-Jun-07
13-Jun-07
14-Jun-07
15-Jun-07
16-Jun-07
17-Jun-07
18-Jun-07
19-Jun-07
20-Jun-07
21-Jun-07
22-Jun-07
23-Jun-07
24-Jun-07
25-Jun-07
26-Jun-07
27-Jun-07
28-Jun-07
29-Jun-07
30-Jun-07
1-Jul-07
2-Jul-07
3-Jul-07
4-Jul-07
There is very less technical knowledge about the machine and stitches to the
workers.
There is not proper IE support to the production managers and the executives in the
unit.
Suggestions:
Absenteeism is major problem. Existing incentive scheme of Rs.600 for 100%
attendance is not enough to handle this problem So, the incentive scheme should
be in such a way that it should attract majority and should be achievable for them.
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Recommended Incentive Scheme
Leave per Month IncentiveNo Leave Rs. 600 + Medical Facility
1 day Rs. 400 + Medical Facility2 days Rs. 250 + Medical Facility3 days Medical facility
More than 3 days No Medical Facility
There should be one hour training programme for the new operators after every 15
days.
There should be monthly general meeting between high authority and the operators
so that there problems can be seen from the grass root level.
New operator should spend every day first five minutes on the practice stitches and
these should be submitted as an assignment of the training programme.
There should be easy access to the IE tools and services for the production
managers and supervisors, so that their time can be effectively and efficiently
utilised.
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22. CONCLUSION
The industrial internship in the Ambattur Clothing Limited has exposed us to the different
and vivid facets of the garment field. Apart from the theoretical and practical knowledge
the internship has given us the opportunity to use our knowledge and skill in solving the
problems on the production work floor. The practical experience imparted by the
internship has helped us to visualize and analyse the ground level details in order to
understand the complexity of any problem. At the one end industrial experience had
conveyed the importance of professional and corporate approach towards the work and life
mean while at the other it helped us to understand the importance of emotional quotient in
increasing the productivity. It helped us to realize the importance and need of team work
in order to achieve success.The two months stay at Chennai has also given us the
opportunity to interact with the people of different culture, language and background.
Altogether it was a wonderful experience and memory to be treasured life long.
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