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Apparel Quality Management

Presentation on :Quality Manual ofArvind Mills Ltd., Denim Division, Mysore Road, India

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Introduction It is the objective of any manufacturer to offer his

customers first quality merchandise. The purpose of the quality control program is to assist manufacturers in meeting their high standards. In addition quality control program can help them in their operations quality control program, spot and reject Defective items and more importantly pinpoint production operations that need special attention thereby reducing the future production failures. This type of quality control provides a basis for management decisions in the plant.

Quality is: Fit for use Conformance to requirements When customer is satisfied and encouraged to buy When it

is defect free When it has a long life When it has good wear ability and wash ability

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Quality Control Systems

Quality control systems of the various department within the industry are enlisted Quality Control in Fabric InspectionQuality Control in the Testing LaboratoryQuality Control in Cutting RoomQuality Control in Sewing RoomQuality Control in WashingQuality Control in Finishing

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1.FABRIC INSPECTIONObjective:- To identify and mark fabric faults on the fabric- Decision to cut the fabric lot or notGuidelines for Inspection: - As soon as the fabric reaches the store, fabric

should be inspected. Fabric should be stored in a clean moisture free environment

- A swatch of dimension as specified by the laboratory has to be submitted to the laboratory as soon as the fabric arrives so that fabric is checked for performance standards as per the requirements creased productivity of the cutting department.

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In textile and garment trade extensively accepted system of inspection is

THE FOUR POINT SYSTEM. ◦ This system is very easy to understand and implement. ◦ Standards obtained / achieved in this system have proved as acceptable in

garment manufacturing.

Hence this system is used for fabric checking :

i. Usually we have to check 10% of the total fabric received.ii. In case this inspection passes we can accept the whole lot of fabriciii. Whenever the first 10 % of the fabric gets failed, we have to inspect

entire quantity and then take a final decision on accepting or rejecting a fabric.

iv. However, wherever the requirement of fabric for an order quantity is less than 1000 meters, in such cases entire quantity of fabric should be used.

FOUR POINT SYSTEM

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Woven Fabric Defects:◦ Drawback◦ Dropped Pick◦ End out◦ Fly◦ Harness Break down◦ Knots◦ Mixed End◦ Mixed Filling◦ Slubs◦ Smash◦ Soiled Filling or End◦ Stop Mark ◦ Thin place

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2.LABORATORYNo sooner than the fabric is received at ware

house, one meter length from every fabric role received will be sent to Laboratory for finding Dimensional Changes due to Style wash & and shades evolved during Style Wash.

Fabric Content and Weight are verified and then following tests are conducted

Fabric package test Garment package test

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FABRIC PACKAGE TESTSkewTensile StrengthTearing Strength Colour Fastness to PerspirationColour Fastness to Crocking Colour Fastness to Water Fabric WeightpH ( Power of Hydrogen ) using pH meter Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )Construction ( Visual)Yarn Size

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GARMENT PACKAGE TEST Dimensional Stability to Home Laundering. Appearance after Laundering Tensile Strength Attachment Strength Seam Properties Tearing Strength CF to Accelerated Laundering CF to crocking Fabric Weight Colour Fastness to Perspiration Colour fastness to Water Fibre Identification pH Extract Stretch & Recovery ( Only for Stretch Fabric )

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3.CUT ROOM QUALITY CHECKGood Sewing begins with good cutting. Bad

cutting will result in sewing defects, excessive repairs and slowed production. The Quality Control Inspector's responsibilities include assisting the Cut Room Manager for taking correct steps and corrective measures if required.

Requirements PO File with Tech Pack, before and wash specs,

Fabric shade band, shrinkage details, Marker / Pattern details, Trim Cards QA Specifications, Approved sample, Visual Quality standards, PP meeting notes etc; are to be there in the section. Display the items those are specified, on the display board. Before the spreading of the fabric, it should be relaxed ( Especially Stretch fabric ) and report to be maintained.

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SPREADING: 

01. TABLE MARK:The Inspector should check for these marks as the table is marked off. Allow 1/4" tolerance for

marking according to the marker splices marked by the tracer.

02. Marker Placement :Marker should be placed on the spread with front edge on the marker edge:( 1/8" variance and 1/2"

allowance on the end placement.) 03. Edging:After completion of the spread, check to see that straight edge from the marker line is within 1/4"

variance ( Wide or Narrow )04.Ends:After completion of the spread check , see that plies do not extend closer than 1/2" nor more than 1"

away from the marked end of the spread.05.Splices:After completion of the spread, check splice hem laps to see that both plies extend past the marked

splice by no less than 1/2" and no more than 11/2".06.Narrow Goods: After completion of the spread, check the far edge of the spread to see that all plies extend beyond

the marker line.07.Leaning:After completion of spread, check for leaning by standing a rule on the straight edge of the spread.

Check at least at three different places Tolerance is 1/4"08.Tension:Tension must be checked during spreading. This is very important especially on knit fabrics. Tension

can be recognised by the biased appearance of goods with a reasonable amount of tolerance.09.Count:Count must be checked after completion of spreading and before cutting. count must be made of all

plies at both ends.10.Remnants:Check to see that remnants are no longer than the shortest splice.

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CUTTING: 01. Miscut:Miscut measures the ability of the cutter to split the line.

Tolerance 1/8" 02. Matching Plies:Check top ply with the bottom ply. Tolerance 1/8" 03 . Rugged Cutting:This is a judgement defect. It is more important on critical

parts. If the part has to be recut, it is a defect. 04. Notches:Check the notch location by placing the pattern over the top

ply. Tolerance 1/8" 05. Check Pattern:Compare the pattern to marker paper to ensure that the

marker is correct

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FUSING  Before starting the fusing, it is necessary that

Parameters under which parts are to be fused should be decided by which the fusing standards are obtained. The Standard should usually be given by the interlining supplier or in few cases buyer will suggest the standard as well as the type of interlining to be used. Suggested standard should be displayed near the fusing machine with all the details.

Setting the Machine Interlining Compatibility Fusing Shrinkage Regular Quality Check

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4.QUALITY IN SEWING FLOOR

Responsibility of Quality Assurance Department in SEWING FLOOR can be divided in to three stagesThey are; Pre Production StageIn Line &End Line

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Pre Production: It is nothing but preparing your self for the new style to be

sewn in the line /in the sewing floor. Know the Style:

It is the responsibility of the roving QA that he studies the style completely especially with reference to fabric, trims, construction / required needle work.

Set the line for Production:

After the discussion / pre production meeting with the concerned people of the line, it is the turn of the IE and Line Technician along with the Supervisor to work out machine lay out and line plan so that manufacturing of the garments are made easy to yield maximum production with QUALITY.

Display :

i. Relevant details such as

ii. Line Plan / Machine Layout

iii. Tec pack / Construction details of the style

iv. Measurement Chart

v. Trim Card

vi. Approved Standard duly signed by QAM etc; are to be displayed at the end table of the sewing line besides weekly and monthly Quality performance of the particular sewing line.

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In Line SewingBefore starting the actual sewing, each operator

has to check the SPI of his machine.At the time of starting of a new style, it is

necessary that QA discusses with IE and batch technician about the machine layout, line plan and sequence of operations.

Every operator before the start of sewing of the particular part/operation, shall stitch a mock in the same fabric and this mock shall be reviewed by QA as well as the line supervisor.

Thus, the Roving QA has to move machine by machine as the stitching operation continues till the complete finished FIRST GARMENT of the style comes out of the line. QA and Supervisor shall review this FIRST GARMENT that has come out for CONSTRUCTION and MEASUREMENT.

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End Line:Stitched garments from the sewing line are

received at END TABLE and these garments are subjected for 100% inspection by Quality Inspector at END Table.

For VISUAL, CONSTRUCTION and KEY MEASUREMENTS.  

Passed garments at this stage are AUDITED at 2.5 AQL and on passing, moved to WASHING SECTION.

Quality Failed Garments shall be returned to sewing section for rectification and return.

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5.Quality Control System in Washing

From Sewing Section, garments are sent to Laundry for further processing. In Denims / Jeans, wash process is an integral part of Garments. In laundry, wash process is divided in to two parts. They are Dry Process and Wet Process.

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DRY PROCESS:Laser PrintingResin TreatmentWhiskering (Moulding)

•Laser PrintingLaser Printing is an electrostatic digital printing process that rapidly produces high quality text and graphics by passing laser beam over a charged drum to define a differently charged image. The Quality Checks are :

Size of the PrintIntensity of the Print Print PlacementBack ground shade / intensity  

Hand SandingTacking / TyingPP SprayDamages /

Destruction

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Resin Treatment

Resin Treatment gives value addition to garments. We have been talking about Resin and its use in Denim Garments Industry to create unique and vintage looks. This adds value to Denim Garments and improves its salebility in the market. During the process points of check are:

- Concentration of Resin Solution( Both solute and solvent should be taken exactly as per the given standard )( Mixing to be made by a stirring machine )- Quantity that is to be sprayed on a garment- Size of Inflated Balloon on which the garments are hung- Garment Rotation Time- Curing Time

 

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Whiskering:

On Denims, whiskers / moulds / moustaches / chevrons are nothing but the worn out lines /impressions generated by natural wearing on hips and thigh area. There are many designs & patterns available for this purpose. The activity is being carried out manually with the help of sharp edge emery paper rolled and pasted on fine wooden stick.Quality Check Points during this process are 

1) Size wise verification of pattern / mould with respect to garment size

  2) Position and placement  3) Intensity of the whiskering carried out 

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Hand Scraping / Sanding: Hand Sanding is generally being done in rigid

form of garments to get distress look. Locations of scrapping can be front, thigh and back seat or it can be overall / global application as per standard.

Process check points of Hand Sanding are:  

1) Selection of right numbered paper depending on the

fabric strength and required intensity2) Intensity3) Placement

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Tacking / Tying: It is a process which is being done by swift tag

machines with the help plastic or nylon tag pins on rigid form of garment to get very heavy contrast ( rigid & washed ) on waist band , bottom hem back pocket and front pocket corners etc;. After washing completely nylon tag must be removed before finishing.

Check points during the process are

  1) Tagging placement.

 

2) Length of tag pin &

 

3) Width of folding where tagged

 

 

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PP Spray: PP Spray is being done on denim garments to

achieve local abraded area to appear whiter than background indigo colour shade. Check points which need to be followed are :

  1) Spray Gun Pressure  2) Width / Area of spray 3) Flow & way of spraying

•Damages / Destruction:  This is one of the most popular distressing effects currently used. Destruction is an art which makes denim look unique and used. Point of check are :  1) Size of the damage  2) Position and place of destruction

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WET PROCESS Development

Sampling Bulk

DEVELOPMENT It is advisable that the QA Department involve them selves right

from the Development Stage and during the development, it is necessary that following factors are worked out and the record is maintained in a Development Register.

  Weight of the garment / load. Water level / quantity of water required Hardness of water used for the bath pH value of water Temperature of the bath Timing / Duration under which bath is given to develop the

sample Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used ) Quantity / Weight of chemicals use

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SAMPLINGDuring Proto sample making the standard to be achieved is as that of the final finished garment in Bulk Production Therefore from the Original Development Register, the reciepe shall be worked out to meet the Final Standard in Bulk. Hence, in process activity for Proto shall be tracked back to the Development.

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BULK WASH:  The garments received for Bulk Wash are to be

checked / audited 100% for before wash stains, damages, fabric defects and construction faults. If found defective, garments are to be sent back for rectification. It is also mandatory that washing section shall receive the garments fabric lot / shade wise only.

In Pilot Washing, In Final Washing,

1)Shade

2)Unwanted streak marks

3)Measurements

4)Damages

1)No of garments in the bath 2)Water level ( Quantity of water used for the bath ) 3)Hardness of water used for the bath 4)pH value of the water used for the bath 5)Temperature of the bath ( Under which the bath shall run ) 6)Timing ( Duration for which the bath should run. and adjust the time regulator accordingly ) 7)Type of bath ( Recipe / Chemicals used 8)Quantity of Chemicals used for bath ( Quantity to be weighed and then mixed with the solvent / water before pouring in to the bath drum )

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6.FINISHING DEPARTMENT

PO file with Tech Pack etc; Wash Standard, Approved Shade Garments, Shrinkage

Details, Trim Cards, Fabric Test Report, Garment Test Report, QA Specifications,

Measurement spec, Approved Sample, Visual Quality Standards, PP Meeting notes,

Packing & Folding instructions are to be there in the section.

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Garment received in Finishing Section for finishing has to be recorded in an appropriate ledger mentioning PO No., Buyer's name, size wise order quantity, size wise receipts, wash type etc.

Any special instructions if available are to be displayed.

Display board should have approved Garment, Trim Cards, Folding / Packing method, Fabric defect standards ( marked with accepted / not accepted ), wash standards, shade bands, Defect % as observed in finishing section. Ironing standard to be available in the section.

Standard requirement to be explained to all Ironing operators like method of Ironing, Temperature control, steam usage etc;

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CHECKING AREA◦ Inspection and Checking area to be provided with a minimum of

1200 Lux light level.

◦ Whenever the lighting level decreases bulbs should be replaced. The table tops should be white laminated. All relevant details as specified are to be kept at the checking area.

VISUAL CHECK◦ All the garments are to be checked for Visual Defects related to

stitching, Fabric, Trims etc; Rejected garments during inspection are to be rectified.

MEASUREMENT CHECK◦ All the Garments to undergo measurement checks at critical

points at a separate specified area.

◦ Record of a minimum of 32 garments' measurements in every style are to be recorded on daily basis or as specified by the respective buyer.

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Garments passed through measurement check are to pass through ironing section for garment pressing and folding.

GARMENT PRESSING & FOLDING:◦ In Ironing Section, Pressing Standard should be displayed on each of

the Pressing Table and Ironing operator should be explained and well educated about the requirement of the Buyer with respect to Pressing and Folding. Neatly pressed and folded garments then shall be sent to Packing Section.

Garment Packing:◦ Folded Garments from Ironing section shall be passed through MD

Machine to ascertain that the garments are free from Metal Contamination.

◦ On receipt of the garments Packing Section shall segregate the garments as under. Color wise & Shade wise Each Shade shall be further segregated in to different sizes.

◦ Then Tagging of the garments shall take place. After Tagging, garments shall be stored /kept separately as per Color, Shade and Size.

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THANK YOU!!