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Aromantic’s Free Newsletter
For Customers and Subscribers
Issue no 33, May 2011
2 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Hours of Business:
9am-5pm Mondays - Fridays
17 Tytler Street
Forres
Moray
IV36 1EL
Scotland
Tel: +44 (0)1309 696900
Fax: +44 (0)1309 696911
e-mail: [email protected]
www.aromantic.co.uk
Aromantic is a unique company
on the forefront of providing organic and
natural ingredients, recipes, equipment and
courses for make-your-own, cruelty-free
and high quality cosmetics, toiletries &
beauty products.
We sell these ingredients in affordable
quantities for small businesses,
complementary therapists, market traders,
home crafters and individuals.
Welcome
To our May 2011 Newsletter!
I start this Newsletter after a difficult
week for us on a personal level at
Aromantic. Many of you may know
that our dear friend and colleague
Louise Hutcheson passed away
suddenly on 29th
March. She is very
special to us and we dearly miss her
smiling face and presence. Our hearts
go out to her family, especially
Jacqui, her big sister and her niece,
Laura, who both work for us also.
Thank you to those of you who have
given us your kind condolences. You
can read our tribute to her on pg 31.
We have 12 new products for you, 8
of them organic or suitable for
inclusion in natural and organic
products. We have 3 new active ingredients, 2 new organic vegetable
oils, 2 new organic starter packs, 2 new essential oils and excitingly a
new more natural well-tested Preservative called Preservative Eco and
a product home testing kit simple enough for anyone to use!
This issue also has some articles, including current topics such as the
Traditional Herbal Medicinal Products Directive, as well as articles
about GLA-rich oils, sensory analysis, Naturals Collaboration, Market
Reports on Vegetable and Essential Oils, and 4 new recipes in our
Recipe Corner. We also have some very Special offers and have added
Bulk Prices for many of our products.
Happy Spring, may all your new ventures flourish!
Kind regards,
Kolbjorn Borseth and the Aromantic Team
New Products 3-14
Special Offers
Challenge test your products
15-16
14
Bulk Prices
Course Update
17
17
Market Update - Vegetable Oils
Market Update - Essential Oils
18-19
19
Naturals Collaboration 20
Flower seed oils rich in GLA
Sensory Analysis
21-22
23
Product Spotlight 24-26
Traditional Herbal Medicinal
Products Directive (THMPD)
27-28
Recipe Corner
Tribute to Louise
29-30
31
CONTENTS
Louise Hutcheson
6 April 1971—29 March 2011
3 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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New Products
NEW ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
Hyaluronic Acid Eco (100% Powder)
INCI Name: Sodium Hyaluronate
Ecocert-approved to be used in natural and organic products. A white to off-white,
fine granulated powder. This is the same powder that we use when making our
Hyaluronic Acid Gel by adding water and preservative to a 1:99 ratio (1% Hyaluronic Acid: 99% Water) that
hereafter will be called Hyaluronic Acid Gel. This powder can be used in natural and organic classified cosmetic
products. Hyaluronic Acid has the ability to absorb up to 1000 times its own weight of water, so it’s therefore
the most efficient humectant moisturiser we have so far.
Hyaluronic acid is what gives the skin its volume and fullness. It is one of the chief components of the
extracellular skin matrix and it contributes significantly to cell proliferation. Aging can result in the loss of
hyaluronic acid, which in turn results in skin that has less volume and the formation of wrinkles and folds. Its
hydrating properties result in increased skin smoothness, softening and decreased wrinkles. Its rejuvenating
properties result in increased skin smoothness and softness. It also protects the cell structure and defending
against external threats and bacterial infections. It also exhibits viscous flow, elastic and pseudoplastic
properties. This property is unique to HA. So you can see why it is popularly called “The Fountain of Youth” and
it is a common ingredient in skin care products. Hyaluronic Acid can be processed either warm or cold and is
incorporated into the water stage of a cosmetic formulation.
The easiest way to use the Hyaluronic Acid powder is to sprinkle 1 gram of it to 100ml/g of 20-50ºC water/other
liquids such as organic hydrolates, infusions or decoctions. Blend with an electric stick blender until it becomes
like a gel. You now have a 1% solution gel without any preservatives. You then need to use it straight away by
adding it during the water stage or third stage to your creams, lotions or gels. Please note: just to remind you,
when if you make a water-based commercial product like a cream or gel with a shelf life, you will need to add a
preservative to your product. If you need to store the rest or part of this gel you need to add the appropriate
preservative to it immediately, e.g. 1% Preservative Eco.
Dosage recommended for the powder:
Add 0.1 to 1% to product (creams, gels), which equals 0.1 gram to 1 gram of powder per 100ml/g of products
such as creams and gels (equivalent to 10g of Aromantic’s Hyaluronic Acid Gel to 100ml/g product)
0.05%= 0.05 gram of Powder per 100ml/g of products such as creams, gels, etc (equivalent to 5g of Aromantic’s
Hyaluronic Acid Gel that we already sell)
Tip: 1%= 1 gram of powder per 100ml/g of products such as creams and gels (The same concentration that we
use to make Aromantic’s Hyaluronic Acid Gel that we already sell.)
4 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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You cannot add the powder or gel to an oil serum but you can add the powder directly in the water stage to a
cream or lotion and heat it up while whisking until the water stage ingredients have been raised to a
temperature over 75°C and the powder has been thickened. Beware that if you use more than 0.5% (0.5g per
100ml/g) of the powder with this method then the water stage can become too thick to work with. It is approx.
20% cheaper for you to make up the powder into a gel solution than buying the Hyaluronic Acid Gel from us.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-hyaluronic-acid-eco-uk.htm
Skinbright Active
INCI: Crambe Abyssinica (98%), Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate (2%).
Skin brightening mix that we’ve blended at Aromantic with our organic crambe seed oil,
which helps to give it an extra natural silicon feeling. Shelf life: 2-3 years. This is a new,
very good and safe skin brightener/lightener, which is newly patented and shows no
cytotoxic effects, nor any irritation or sensitisation reaction.
Benefits of Skinbright Active
• Induces a significant lightening effect on the skin, at the same time that fights
against photoaging.
• Acts by inhibiting tyrosinase activity.
• Exhibits a considerable lightening in-vivo effect on the skin
• Has a completely safe profile
• Shows good stability in formulations
• Possesses a photoprotective effect on the human epidermal keratinocytes, helping to prevent skin
damage caused by UV radiation
• Unlike other skin brighteners/lighteners that cause irritation and sensitivity due to the sun, Skinbright
Active actually helps to prevent skin damage caused by UV radiation – 190% increase in cell viability
• Exhibits a better dipigmenting effect than Kojic Acid and Arbutin, and similar to Hydroquinone
• Does not affect melanocyte growth, while Hydroquinone cytotoxicity was clearly observed
• A cream containing 5% Skinbright Active induces a significant brightening effect after 30 and 60 days
• Skinbright active reduced the appearance of melasma (dark skin discolourations that appears on sun-
exposed areas of the face) by 72% and lentigines (sun spots, age spots or liver spots) by 67% after 60 days
of treatment
• It is blended with Crambe Seed Oil, which gives the product a smooth, silky, silicon feeling and enhances it
as the oil works as a skin feel-modifier (Please see more information about Crambe Seed Oil in this
Newsletter)
Kojic Acid was very efficient but was found that it could cause skin damage so was recently banned in many
countries. Skinbright Active has shown better efficiency than Kojic Acid and is very safe to use.
5g £48 Ref: 88001 10g £79 Ref: 88002 30g £158 Ref: 88003
5 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Usage of Skinbright Active
Add a minimum of 5% and a maximum of 25% into creams, lotions and, as the product is oil-soluble, to face oils,
oil blends and oil serums. Personally I believe it works best in gels.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-skybright-active-uk.htm
Papaya Glycerine Extract N
INCI: Glycerine, Calica papaya
Organic glycerine extract made in UK from non-organic papaya flesh. The
product is made in the UK for Aromantic without adding any preservatives. If
it’s possible to get a steady supply of organic papaya in the future we will use
that.
Papaya flesh contains the papain, which is a protein-dissolving enzyme ex-
tracted from the milky white latex found in the biggest quantity in unripe pa-
paya fruit. Because of this quality, papaya is used as a meat tenderiser.
Benefits
• When used on our skin, it is excellent as an enzyme peeling product, it
literally helps to peel away dead skin cells
• Good also for bruises, sprains and sore muscles (combine with Arnica
and Comfrey raw materials)
• Gently removes skin cells from the surface - has a light cosmetic effect and does not give cell stimulation
of regenerative abilities of skin that deep skin peeling treatments do
• Unblocks pores
• Makes skin smoother, brighter and softer
• Assists the renewal of skin on its top layer
• Reduces visibility of skin discolouration and sun spots
• Fights deep wrinkles
• Retextures dry, flaky skin
Usage and dosages
• Use 3-6% as a replacement for moisturisers that you’d normally use e.g. glycerine or sorbitol in:
• Peeling products such as Peeling Creams, Lotions and Gels
• Exfoliating Products such as Exfoliating Creams, Lotions and Gels
• Scrubs for body, hand and feet
• Hand and Foot Creams to soften the skin together with Carbamide Crystals
30ml £9.90 Ref: 8593 100ml £27.90 Ref: 8594 500ml £129 Ref: 8595
1L £209.90 Ref: 8596
6 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Related Products
For peeling purposes
Combine with AHA Natural Fruit Acids (which includes Glycolic Acid) And Aloe Vera, which both contain fruit
enzymes that both heal, soften and peel, but also counteract the harsh effects of even the mildest of all peelers.
Cautions
• Pregnant women and people taking blood thinning medication should avoid it.
• Do not add plain glycerine to your recipe when adding this product to your recipe
• This product can also replace Sorbitol that I recommend using in exfoliating and Peeling products.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-papaya-glycerine-extract-uk.htm
NEW PRESERVATIVE
Preservative Eco
INCI: Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic Acid.
We are delighted to introduce a new broad spectrum preservation system based on a
combination of ingredients that is both ECOCERT and COSMOS approved. (Cosmos is a
European organic standard has been created by an alliance of 5 of Europe's leading
organic certifiers: The Soil Association – UK; BDIH – Germany; Cosmebio – France;
Ecocert – France; ICEA. Preservative Eco meets ECOCERT standards for use in natural
and organic skin and hair care products. Its four components, Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerine, Sorbic
Acid, are all well accepted in a wide range of personal care products. This novel composition of this
antimicrobial blend offers broad spectrum protection in a diverse range of products, against gram-positive and
gram-negative bacteria, yeast and moulds. It is clear liquid with a mild smell.
Advantages to using Preservative Eco are:
• Meets ECOCERT’S and COSMOS standards
• Non-paraben, non-formaldehyde, non-isothiazolone based preservative system
• Has wide global regulatory acceptance.
• Low odour profile; ideal for fragrance-free and fragrance-sensitive formulations.
• Compatible with a wide range range of skin, hair and sun care formulations.
• Safe to use in products with a wide range of pH values (3-8).
• Excellent safety profile.
• Can be used in products with detergents, unlike Preservative 12
100ml £4.90 Ref: 8840 500ml £17.40 Ref: 8841 1L £31.35 Ref: 8842
5L £115.45 Ref: 8843 (Only £23.09 a litre)
7 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Recommended dosage for Preservative Eco:
The recommended use level is 1% and for products containing herbal infusions or decoctions, it is 1-1.15%.
Because of the high quantity of Benzyl Alcohol in Preservative Eco and to meet the European Cosmetic Directive
standards, the maximum amount use in products should be 1.15%. Note: To be on the safe side, I would then
recommend that you use 1.1% of Preservative Eco in products containing herbal infusions or decoctions.
Usage:
It is very important that Preservative Eco is added to your recipes for which heating is necessary when the
temperature is below 45˚C. So the best is to add the preservative in the third stage of making creams and
lotions. However, every personal care formulation requires special attention. It is always important to ensure
that every newly developed or altered formulation be challenge-tested to guarantee proper preservation.
Caution:
Due to the Salicylic Acid component in Preservative Eco, do not use it in products for children under 3 years of
age, except in rinse-off products such as shampoos, shower gels, etc.
Further information about using Preservative Eco
Aromantic has just challenge-tested 2 creams made using 1% Preservative Eco at Microbiological Consultancy
Services and we now have the results back from their lab. The creams we tested are: Aromantic’s Mature Skin
Cream; and Aromantic’s Active Cream 1 (which contains herbal infusions) and both passed the challenge test to
comply with the criteria of the European Pharmacopeia for topical products.
Our tests were successful and Preservative Eco also comes from a reputable company that produces other
ECOCERT-approved raw materials but as I’ve said in my Preservatives article, the final responsibility for the end
result of your products lies with you as we are not with you when you make your products.
If you are happy with the preservative you are using I see no reason to change preservatives. But if you want to
use an ECOCERT and COSMOS approved preservative or you want a natural preservative to use in products
containing detergents (shampoos, foam baths, shower gels, etc) then this may be the preservative for you.
Some common sense or safety rules when changing to other preservatives:
• Change 1-2 products first, not all the products in your range.
• Do your own stability test, Newsletter 32. If still uncertain, get our Micrcount® Combi test kit.
• If still not convinced, get your product challenge-tested. For more information see pg 14.
• Ideally, don’t start selling your ‘test’ products containing your new preservative until 6 months have
passed from production date.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-preservative-eco-uk.htm
Click links for our challenge test results, which can be found in our Natural Skin Care Library on our website:
Active Cream 1: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/pdf/Challenge_Test_Active_Cream_1_Preservative_Eco.pdf
Mature Cream: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/pdfChallenge_Test_Mature_Skin_Cream_Preservative_Eco.pdf
30ml £3.95 Ref: 7616 100ml £7.90 Ref: 7617 500ml £19.90 Ref: 7618
1L £37.90 Ref: 7619 5L £149.60 Ref: 7620 (only £29.90/L)
8 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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NEW ORGANIC VEGETABLE OILS
Crambe Seed Oil, Cold pressed (Organic) ORG N
INCI: Crambe Abyssinica
There is VAT on this oil as it is not classified as food
and should not be eaten.
Organic, cold pressed from seeds. Origin: England.
Colour: ranging from light to golden yellow, with a feint
neutral odour. Shelf life: 4-5 years (4 times more stable
than Sweet Almond Oil. It is not derived from GM crops.
We are happy to introduce an oil that maybe only a few
of you have heard about, Crambe Seed Oil. With regard
to food miles, it is organically grown in England just 7 miles from the extraction plant. Of course where you live
will affect the final food miles for the product. Crambe Abyssinica has been grown in the UK for many years. The
seed is rich in an oil that is highly valued due to the unique characteristics which enable it to be used in a wide
range of applications.
Skin Care
It has unique qualities for skin care. Crambe Seed Oil is an excellent natural lubricant and emollient. It has a
unique skin-feel, combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties, without feeling too greasy; this is
attributed to its special lipid profile. Crambe Seed Oil has superior stability compared to other oils and this
combined with its enhanced slip properties make it an ideal natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones. Just
1000kg has been produced organically and the product and its low profile is a bit of a trade secret.
It is a long and soft oil perfect for long strokes in massage. Compared to Jojoba Oil, Crambe Seed Oil has much
larger quantities of Erucic Acid. Crambe Seed Oil is similar to Broccoli Seed Oil with both around 50% Erucic Acid
(C22:1), an Omega-9 fatty acid that helps to give a glossy shine to hair just like silicone would. It also gives shine
and gloss to dull and lifeless skin. The oil is now becoming increasingly popular as a natural option to silicone in
hair and styling products where shine and lustre is needed. Crambe, however, is much cheaper and is oilier.
Efficacy data
Trials carried out by UK formulation experts have identified that Crambe oil has a unique skin-feel and lubricity.
It helps protect the skin surface from drying whilst improving barrier function. Application of the oil directly to
the skin leaves it feeling softer and smoother whilst not drying out as quickly as some other oils.
Applications and dosages
We recommend Crambe Seed Oil for use in products which are designed to give enhanced slip/lubricity and
protection. Due to its high stability and skin-feel, Crambe Seed Oil may be suitable as a natural replacement for
synthetic oils such as mineral oils and silicones.
9 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Application of Crambe Seed Oil include:
• Creams for lustre and shine – use 5-8%
• Massage Oils for whole body massage – use 10-40%
• Massage Creams and Lotions – use 10-30%
• Lotions – use 2-5%
• Balms (Ointments) – use 5-30%
• Lip Care – 10-20%
• Hair Treatment Oils – use 5-25%
• Hair Packs – use 5-25%
• Hair Conditioners - use 2-6%
Please see pages 25-27 for more information, for recipes see pg 30. For website description or to order, click:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-crambe-seed-oil-organic-uk.htm
100ml £4.50 Ref: 87006 500ml £17.90 Ref: 87007
1L £29.90 Ref: 87008 5L £119.60 Ref: 87009
NEW ORGANIC MACERATED VEGETABLE OIL
Mullein Flower Oil (Organic) ORG N
INCI: Helianthus annuus, Verbascum densiflorum
Organic dried flowers cold macerated in organic high oleic content sun-
flower oil. Origin: Wales and Holland. Shelf life is 1.5-2 years. Our Organic
Mullein Flower Oil is one of a range of macerated oils especially produced
for us by a grower in the Welsh Borders, where he has been growing herbs
organically for 25 years. We are very happy with the good quality. After I
(Kolbjorn) visited their farm personally, I came away very impressed with
what they do.
The difference between this organic macerated mullein oil and our non-
organic macerated mullein oil is that in this organic oil, our grower and sup-
plier used only flowers, whereas in the non-organic oil mainly leaves are
used.
Skin Care
Leaves are anodyne (pain-killing), antibacterial, astringent, demulcent, mucilaginous and vulnerary, the flowers
are demulcent (forms a soothing film on the skin), emollient and mucilaginous (which means that is softens and
soothes and reduces irritation), moist and sticky. Mullein contains natural tannins, which are wrinkle-fighters
and so it’s an excellent choice for skin-lifting products, especially when use din combination with pumpkin seed
oil. Mullein Flower Macerated Oil has the added benefits of being especially good for easing frostbite, haemor-
rhoids (combine with Horse Chestnut Oil) and to soothe and heal bruises (combine with Arnica Oil).
10 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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30ml £5.30 Ref: 87001 100ml £12.90 Ref: 87002 500ml £48.90 Ref: 87003
1L £91.90 Ref: 87004
Mullein Oil for Hair Care
Add mullein oil to scalp oils in combination with olive oil.
Mullein Oil for Ear Care
The oil is a traditional remedy still used today to treat earaches. Caution: don’t use if the eardrum is perforated.
Related products
For more information about Mullein Oil
The Aromantic Guide to the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.
In protective barrier products such as Creams
Blend mullein oil with jojoba oil.
In products for oily/combination skin
Blend mullein oil with jojoba oil and oils high in omega 3, such as kiwi seed, chia seed and camelina.
In Hair Packs
Blend mullein oil with jojoba and/or crambe seed oil.
In Scalp Treatment Oils
Blend mullein oil with olive oil.
Face-Lifting products
Blend mullein oil with pumpkin seed oil, remodelling intense and hyaluronic acid.
For specific fatty acid content, see our free Newsletter no 24. Click http://www.aromantic.co.uk/newsletter.htm
to access Newsletter archives (you may need to sign up if you haven’t already done so).
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mullein-flower-oil-organic-uk.htm
Dear Mr Kolbjørn Borseth, Having purchased all your publications and reading the Aromantic Guides,
I/we are writing to inform you that we are very pleased with your publications.
We find your recipes and uses for skin ailments etc., excellent.
I/we know that it is presented easy-to-understand and without your books of
instructions we would not be able to fulfil our ambition.
Your books will always be our inspiration. With thanks.
Yours sincerely, David & Bridget Jupp
11 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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NEW BOTANICAL CO2 EXTRACT
Rice Bran Oil CO2 Extract (Organic) ORG N
INCI: Oryza sativa germ oil.
Organic Rice Bran harvested in Italy and taken to Germany for supercritical CO2
extraction under organic conditions, making a very concentrated product of which you only need to use 1-2% .
Colour: Light yellow. A liquid consistency is reached at +34ºC, therefore heat it if solid in hot water. Method:
pour boiling water into a bowl and let stand for half a minute or so, then place bottle in bowl, standing up with
lid on for a minute or so. Pour immediately. Repeat if necessary. Shelf life: 1.5-2 years. When our supplier tried
to cold press rice bran they couldn’t get enough yield, so the only way to produce organic rice bran oil for the
time being is by CO2 extraction. Aromantic buys this Rice Bran Oil CO2 Extract from its only producer in the
world. As a sign of its quality, it is used in Udo’s Choice, a very high quality product designed and manufactured
by Udo Erasmus, a world expert in fatty acids. It’s an excellent choice if you want to use Rice Bran but prefer to
use organic. For specific fatty acid content, see page 28. Click http://www.aromantic.co.uk/newsletter.htm to
access Newsletter archives (you may need to sign up if you haven’t already done so).
Skin Care
It’s superb for dry, sensitive and/or tired-looking skin. It makes skin soft and is a good humectant to add to hand
creams. It helps with skin irritations and itchiness (combine with comfrey and chickweed products).
Dosage:
Use 1-2% in Creams, Lotions, Ointments, Oil Serums, Face Oils, Body Oils and other Vegetable Oil Blends.
Related Products
For more information about Rice Bran Oil
The Aromantic Guide to the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.
In Massage Oils for sensitive/tired-looking skin
Blend rice bran oil with jojoba, chickweed, marshmallow, apricot kernel, rosehip and coconut oils.
In Hand Creams
Combine rice bran oil with olive, crambe seed and jojoba oils for skin protection and softness.
In Body Oils
Blend rice bran oil with apricot kernel, peach kernel and rosehip oils; and chamomile products.
In Itchy Skin Treatment Products
Blend rice bran with chickweed, comfrey or marshmallow macerated oils and products; & chamomile products.
To view online or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-rice-bran-oil-co2-extract-organic-uk.htm
30ml £4.50 Ref: 5532 100ml £11.90 Ref: 5533
500ml £47.90 Ref: 5534 1L £89.90 Ref: 5535
12 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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1x £3.95 Ref: 9383 5x £14.90 Ref: 9384 (only £2.98 each)
NEW EQUIPMENT
Mikrocount® Combi
A simple test tube to challenge test your product like cream, lotion, gel,
shampoos, etc for bacterial, yeast and mould growth. The testing can be done
by people without microbiological training and special laboratory testing is
not necessary. NB There is no legal requirement to challenge test your
cosmetic products, but you may want to prove your own preservative scheme
is working or simply raise the standards of your production methods. If you want a more comprehensive
challenge test for your products, then contact Microbiological Consultant Services. See page 14.
Every Mickocount Combi sent out will be accompanied by a colour brochure with full instructions and colour
illustrations to help you determine the total bacterial, yeast and fungi counts. The brochure is in English, Polish,
Dutch, German, French and Spanish. Please see page our website for more information. Be aware that the
Mikrocount® Combi tube comes to us with a maximum shelf life of 6-7 months. The expiration date is marked
on the tube. The tubes should be stored unopened at room temperature (about + 20 °C) and protected from
draught and light. The slides must not be allowed to freeze.
Product benefits
• Easy to use - without any preparation time, the slide can be used to test surfaces, semi-solid materials
and liquids.
• Quick and convenient - always handy and reliable to use – even at last minute.
• No special laboratory equipment is necessary.
• Economical - the previous time-consuming laboratory work for preparing nutrient media, producing
dilution series and counting colonies is eliminated.
• In addition, the considerable costs of external laboratory are saved.
• Accurate and reliable - the strict standards to which mikrocount® combi is produced guarantee a product
of consistent excellent quality.
• Detection of bacteria and moulds - with mikrocount® combi, bacteria, yeasts and moulds can be
separately detected with a single dip-slide.
• Simple to use - sampling and evaluation can be carried out even by personnel who have no training in
microbiology.
• Safe - incubated samples are evaluated in sealed tubes which risks of contamination are avoided.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mikrocount-combi-uk.htm
Note: In stock end of May - supplier is awaiting a new batch with a longer shelf life.
13 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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NEW ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS
Melissa (Organic) ORG 1
INCI name: Melissa officinalis
Origin: Bulgaria.
Organic leaves fairly traded directly from a small project in Bulgaria.
Many commercial Melissa oils are in fact blends of citronella and
lemongrass. It takes 3 tonnes of herb material to make a half kilo of this true Melissa oil hence the price. Good
for fighting cold sores so useful to add to lip glosses or lip roll-ons. The heat needed to make a beeswax lip balm
may reduce the effect of this oil.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-melissa-organic-essential-oil-uk.htm
NEW NON-ORGANIC ESSENTIAL OILS
Mandarin, Red
INCI: Citrus reticulata
Peel from Argentina/Italy. An excellent choice in pregnancy to help
combat stretch marks especially when combined with shea butter or
shea butter oil. Helps to clear oily and congested skin. For hair care try
combining with other citrus oils for a St. Clements shampoo or body
wash. Can also use in baby shampoos but best to use Beta Detergent in
the shampoo. This essential oil is in short supply due to the harvest
restrictions in both Italy and Brazil.
For full description or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-mandarin-red-essential-oil-uk.htm
To go to our Essential Oils listings, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-aromatherapy-essential-oils-uk.htm
10ml £3.30 Ref: 12001 30ml £6.60 Ref: 12006 100ml £13.20 Ref: 12007
500ml £45.00 Ref: 12004 1L £85.00 Ref: 12009
2ml £12.40 Ref: 1660 5ml £24.80 Ref: 1659
10ml £45.90 Ref: 1661 30ml £119.30 Ref: 1440
14 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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NEW ORGANIC STARTER PACKS
Starter Pack No 24 Massage Bars (Organic)
Makes up to 45 massage bars, with full instructions and recipes. Contains:
975g of Organic Cocoa Butter and Organic Shea Butter (deodorised and
filtered). Makes 1kg of Organic Massage Bars (approx. 45 small bars).
Special introductory price for each Starter Pack:
To view online or to order, click:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-starter-pack-24-massage-bars-organic-uk.htm
Starter Pack No 25 Lip Balms (Organic)
Make up to 60x 4.5ml Organic Lip Balms with this Starter Pack. Contains full instructions
and recipes, as well as: 84g Beeswax (in 3x28g bags); 60g Organic Cocoa Butter (in 3x20g
bags); 150ml Organic Sweet Almond Oil (3x50ml bottles); 10ml Organic Lemon Essential
Oil; 10ml Organic Lime Essential Oil; 20 (enough for 1x batch) 4.5ml Lip Balm Cylinders
with Lids.
Note: Only 20 lip balm cylinder containers are included in the pack. Please see the Containers category on
our website to order more Lip Balm Cylinders - 4.5ml (9127) or our 15ml Clear Glass Jars (9032).
Special introductory price for each Starter Pack:
To view online or to order, click: http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-starter-pack-25-lip-balms-organic-uk.htm
1x £29.90 Ref: 9624
1x £29.90 Ref: 9625
Challenge Test your products I have negotiated with Angus Malcolm at Microbiological Consultancy Services to give Aromantic customers a
special price if you choose to make a preservative efficacy test. Compared to other companies on the market,
they offer very good value for money. I’d like to emphasise that challenge-testing your products is not a legal
requirement within European legislation but something to do for quality control and your own peace of mind.
The service they offer is called a Preservative Efficacy Test (the same as challenge test really) and the cost to
Aromantic customers for each product is £110+VAT. The standard cost for non-Aromantic customers is
£130+VAT for each product. When requesting 10 or more tests at one time, the cost to Aromantic customers for
each product will be £99+VAT.
Their website is http://www.mcs.uk.net and you simply fill in a form with no recipe details
revealed and then send your products along to them. The challenge/efficacy test takes one
month to complete. Please contact Microbiological Consultancy Services directly.
15 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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SAVE
10%
Cocoa Butter
Cocoa Butter (non-Organic) has 10% discount and we
sell it now in quantities up to 25kg with a price down
to only £9.55/kg!
Mango Butter
We’ve also reduced the prices for Mango Butter.
Beeswax, Yellow (Organic)
500g WAS £18.15
NOW £15.90
1kg WAS £32.55
NOW £25.90
5kg WAS £116.65
NOW £85.00
(Costs only £17/kg!)
New quantity of 10kg is now being sold for only
£15.99/kg
Swedish Beeswax
All quantities have been
reduced in price by 10%
Special Offers
FATS AND WAXES In connection with price reductions, we have also added prices
for 5kg on all of them and 10kg and up to 25kg for some of them.
That makes buying in bulk always cheaper and easier for you.
Shea Butter
Both Shea Butter, Deodorised and Filtered (Organic)
and Shea Butter, Filtered (Organic) now have the
same prices and new quantities as we have secured
both types at the same prices:
500g WAS £13.70
NOW £9.40
1kg WAS £23.90
NOW £14.90
5kg WAS £69.30
NOW £59.60
(Costs only £11.92/kg!)
The new quantities of Shea Butter, Deodorised and
Filtered (Organic) and Shea Butter, Deodorised
(Organic):
10kg £109 Cost per kg only £10.90/kg!
25kg £229 Cost per kg only £9.16/kg!
To order fats and waxes online, click:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-natural-organic-
vegetable-fats-waxes-skin-care-cosmetics-uk.htm
Save: £2.25!
Save: £6.65!
Save: £31.65!
Save: £4.30!
Save: £9.00!
Save: £9.70!
Some fats and waxes are half
their original price & many are now
available in bigger quantities!
16 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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SAVE
25%
Glycerine Soap Bases
Non-Organic Glycerine Soap Base
Blend (SLS-free)
5kg WAS £33.30
NOW £30.50
11.5kg WAS £72.50
NOW £64.90
(Each kilo costs only £5.64/kg)
23kg WAS £129.40
NOW £119.80
(Each kilo costs only £5.20!)
The Organic Glycerine Soap
Base
Special Offers
Save: £2.80!
Save: £7.60!
Save: £9.60!
REDUCED
BY 12-15%
To order Soap Bases online, click:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-glycerine-soap-making-supplies-
moulds-uk.htm
Other reduced prices
• Hyaluronic Acid Gel
• Glycerine (non-Organic)
• Propylene Glycol
SAVE
15% • D-Panthenol
SAVE
10% • Cetyl alcohol
Prices down!
Beta
Detergent
Larger quantities
reduced
Pearlescent
Colours
Quantities of 10g,
50g and 250g
Emulsifiers
25kg just £15.50
PER ONE KG
or all of these see our website for updated prices. http://www.aromantic.co.uk
17 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Essential Oils
We have tried to keep bulk prices on organic essential oils, but due to the
volatile market it’s always possible to keep prices for long. Therefore please
call us if you want bigger quantities than we have up on our website.
Macerated Vegetable Oils
We have also added bulk prices on all the Macerated Vegetable Oils (up to 5
litres).
Tinctures We now sell in 500ml quantity so you can stock up.
Emulsifiers
We now sell most of our Emulsifiers up to 25kg so if you buy 25kg of Emulsifier you pay just £15.50/kg instead
of £26.90/kg if you buy 1kg.
Colours
Both Normal Pigments and Pearlescent Colours – we’ve started selling these up to 1kg and then also at gener-
ally lower prices.
For all of these see our website for updated prices. http://www.aromantic.co.uk
Bulk Prices
Our courses in both Forres and London are filling up very fast but we
still have some spaces in Forres for May 19-28.
It looks as though most of our courses in London this June/July will
be fully booked and we foresee waiting lists.
At the time of writing this, we already have 20 students for both Ad-
vanced Hair Care Products, Anti-Wrinkle Products and Men’s Groom-
ing products and the limit is 25. Our Coloured Make-up Day 1 (Beginners) on Friday 24th June is already fully
booked. Due to popular customer demand (translation: begging and pleading!) we have set up a new Coloured
Make-up Day 1 on the Thursday 23rd June at the same venue in London. We may be able to provide and extra
Make-up Day 2 but for Day 3 we have no suitable venue. There is a 20-student limit per day for Make-up
Courses.
So book in time to avoid disappointment! To view or book Aromantic courses, click here:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/courses-making-natural-skin-care-cosmetic-products-uk.htm
Course Updates
18 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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The price increases of vegetable oils last year were mainly caused by the shortage of
oil seeds to process, as well as the increasing activities of finance investors on the
raw materials market. The prices in the last six months, especially, have gone up very
much.
The overriding explanation for the continued price drive over recent months is the
increasing interest of the part institutional investors outside of the typical
commodities market. These are fund buyers (pension and hedge funds) who identify soft commodities as a
new ‘playing field’. As of recently, they invest a lot of money into bets of raw materials and products out of the
food sector.
A further price driver is the demand from the biodiesel and co-generation industry: with Brent crude oil hitting
temporary record levels, vegetable oils are back on the agenda. We should expect that prices will rule firm
from some considerable time to come.
Some specific market updates
Evening Primrose Oil
China is currently the biggest producer of evening primrose seed with a worldwide market share of
approximately 85-90%. We estimate the global demand for evening primrose of 2.500-3000mt, whereas the
growing demand in Asia is difficult to calculate.
As predicted, the planting of evening primrose seeds decreased. There are several reasons for this. Over the
last two years excess production volumes and stocks had been reduced, that means the market prices for
evening primrose was getting noticeably unattractive for farmers. Other seeds like corn are getting more
attractive due to the high premiums guaranteed by the government.
This autumn the harvest volumes will no longer be sufficient because of decreased planting. We expect 30-
40% less harvest volumes compared to normal years without excess plantings. Furthermore, we await
activities of speculators and seed traders. Prices for evening primrose oil are expected to increase, when
stocks from current crop will further decline. The next harvest is scheduled for autumn 2011.
Almond Oil
Cold and wet weather in California gives concern for the big harvest of almonds there and also less activity
(colony collapse disorder) by the bees will lead to insufficient pollination.
Palm Oil
Palm Oil prices have reached a 3-year high. Because of flooding in Malaysia, a substantial production decline is
expected. The reports have come down by approximately 4-5% in December and January, which against rising
demand cause firm prices.
Market Report on Vegetable Oils
19 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Market Report on Essential Oils
Generally the organic essential oil market is very hard to predict but prices are increas-
ing. As the big cosmetic companies still buy up larger stock than smaller companies and
whole crops sometimes, they have the buying power and we, smaller suppliers are left
to fight for the last few bits and pieces. As a better guarantee against this, we can get
stock from the smaller community projects that operate on fair trade principles, which
is where most of our organic essential oils come from anyway. But projects can see
what is happening on the global market & will accept only premium prices for their oils.
Mandarin, Red (both organic and non-organic) Still in short supply due to harvest problems in Italy and Brazil. The available stock is more expensive is usual.
Orange
The availability of Orange Oil appears insufficient to meet demand. A dismal crop in Brazil combined with a
diminishing crop in Florida due to cold weather has brought prices to historic highs. As an example, non-
organic Orange Essential Oil has in just a few weeks, increased by 6 times.
Lemon Dry weather has contributed to significantly lower volumes of lemon oil from Argentina. At present we esti-
mate that the reduction in oil will be greater than 30%. Production in Spain will be down by 50%. We get our
Lemon Oil from Central America, but due to the reduced production worldwide, the price will surely increase.
Lavender
For the third year in a row, the crop is very poor. This, combined with no carryover oil, makes for limited sup-
ply & high prices. It’s also reported that the flowers’ oil content is 60% lower than previous years & that this
year farm/distillation costs are at last year’s selling prices which has put added pressure on prices and
availability.
Sunflower Oil
Smaller harvest volumes and unusually low stocks are the basic reason for a remarkably lower production of
sunflower oil. This means that the supply for nearby positions is limited and that higher premiums have to be
paid in comparison to other vegetable oils. As sunflower remains the most important cooking oil in Russia and
the Ukraine, there is already a trend to reduce the export volumes to secure local demand at reasonable
prices. Because of this in October 2010 alone the global market price increased by 15%.
Jojoba Oil
Due to poor harvests in Argentina, the prices have rocketed up for Jojoba and more than doubled in just a few
weeks. Aromantic have secured 150 litres at a reasonable price. I already warned about price increases in my
last newsletter and due to that most of the large stock I had secured then has been bought up. Just to remind
you that Jojoba Oil can keep for up to 5 years.
20 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Good News
Quoting from Personal care Magazine www.personalcare magazine.com
Naturals Collaboration
The Union for Ethical BioTrade (UEBT) and The International Natural
and Organic Cosmetic Association (NATRUE), have signed a
Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) to help raise awareness of
the importance of naturally sourced cosmetics products and the
ethical trade in natural ingredients derived from biodiversity.
This collaboration will enhance the work of UEBT and NATRUE
towards responsible supply chain management, transparency to
consumers, and advancing international targets to halt biodiversity
loss set by the United Nations Convention on Biological Diversity.
With consumer demand for natural and organic cosmetics ever growing, companies are increasingly looking to
use ingredients from natural resources. “If done in an ethical and sustainable way, sourcing from nature can
really add value to biodiversity at a local level and help motivate its protection,” said executive director of UEBT,
Rik Kutsch Lojenga.
“UEBT stands for sourcing with respect',” said Julie Tyrell, director general of NATRUE. “Its members commit to
sourcing natural ingredients in a way that conserves biodiversity and respects traditional knowledge while
sharing benefits with those who harvest the ingredients and make them available.
These are values close to the heart of the natural and organic cosmetics sector. The more our sector grows, the
more important this becomes. It is a great chance to promote biodiversity and we decided to work together to
make it happen.”
The MOU between UEBT and NATRUE, both created in 2007, will allow the two organisations to
further collaborate, share insights and explore common opportunities and challenges. The membership base of
the organisations is complementary, with NATRUE’s strong roots in Europe and increasingly the US, and UEBT’s
strength in Latin America and Africa.
Useful links:
http://www.natrue.org
http://www.ethicalbiotrade.org
21 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Flower Seed Oils naturally rich in GLA
Skin under pressure
Our skin is our largest organ and our shield to the environment. It
regulates our body temperatre and fluid balance. The skin also
protects us from pathogens, UV radiation, and mechanical, physical
and chemical insults.
Our way of life stresses the skin barrier each day. Sunbathing, cold
wind, washing, bathing, chemicals in cosmetics and perfumes, as
well as urban pollution are constantly challenging the protective function of the skin.
This protection, called “skin barrier function,” is due to the outer part of the skin, the stratum corneum. Layers
of horny cells (corneocytes) are the “bricks” of a tight wall which protects the whole outer part of our body. In
between these bricks is the “mortar,” which keeps the protective layer together. It consists of ceramides (40%),
cholesterol (25%), and free fatty acids (25%). These essential free fatty acids, specifically gamma linolenic acid
(GLA), are important for the skin barrier function.
Gamma linolenic acid (GLA) deficiency can result in
• dry, chappy, or rough skin due to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
• irritations, infections and inflammation due to a higher permeability of the skin barrier
• higher susceptibility to external stressors (allergens)
Refilling the “mortar” with lipids and gamma linolenic acid is a good way to strengthen the protective function
of the skin and to avoid skin barrier degradation.
GLA helps to protect the skin
Scientific publications have shown that plant seed oils rich in GLA can normalize excessive water loss through
the skin (TEWL).1,2
This results in a moisturizing effect. Improvements of skin elasticity and firmness of the skin
have been shown with evening primrose oil by oral supplementation.2 The smoothness of the skin can be
significantly improved with GLA-rich oils by either topical1 or oral
2 application.
22 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Overall a younger and smoother appearance of the skin can be achieved by supplying gamma linolenic acid
(GLA) from flower seed oils.
Examples of Vegetable Oils rich in GLA
• Borage (16-24%)
• Evening Primrose (8-12%)
• Hemp Seed (2- 3%)
Proven Benefits of GLA-rich oils Application
Reducing TEWL Topical1, oral
2,3
Moisturising effect Topical1, oral
2
Smoothness Topical1, oral
2
Skin firmness Oral2,3
Fatigue resistance Oral2,3
Reduced itching Oral2,3
Scientific References 1: Nissen, H.P., H. Biltz, and R. Muggli, Borage oil.
Cosmetics & Toiletries, 1995. 110(10): p. 71-73, 76.
2: M uggli, R., Systemic evening primrose oil improves the
biophysical skin parameters of healthy
adults. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2005.
27(4): p. 243-249.
3: Brosche, T. and D. Platt, Effect of borage oil
consumption on fatty acid metabolism, transepidermal
water loss and skin parameters in elderly people.
Archives of Gerontology and Geriatrics,
2000. 30(2): p. 139-150.
4: H enz, B.M., et al., Double-blind, multicentre analysis
of the efficacy of borage oil in patients with atopic
eczema. British Journal of Dermatology, 1999. 140(4): p.
685-688.
Article source: One of our main suppliers
23 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Sensory Analysis – powerful tool in formulating
unique cosmetic textures Why use Sensory Analysis at all? Aren’t machines sophisticated
enough to measure all the characteristics of a formulation or
product that we could ever want or need?
The answer is no, because of course you are dealing with human feelings, and
sometimes you cannot predict how a product is going to feel, smell, etc until it is
tested on a human panel. The science of Sensory Analysis is not new and has been
used in the food industry for many years to determine how a foodstuff is perceived
by the consumer in terms of the five senses:
Appearance - what does the product look like, colour, shape etc.
Smell - does it smell appealing or are there any strange odours
Touch - how does it feel in hands and in the mouth
Taste - can different flavours be detected and what are they
Sound - what sound does it make in the mouth and is this good/bad
The use of Sensory Analysis as a tool in cosmetics is much more recent and was first
introduced by L’oreal and Dior in France in the 1980s. The idea soon spread and by the end of
the 1990s many cosmetic manufacturers were using this tool as part of the formulation
process.
Measurement of Characteristics Any aspect of a particular formulation can be measured. It is normally done by producing reference samples at the two
extremes of the characteristic being measured. For example to measure viscosity you would have a very thick cream as
the high reference ranked at 10, and a very thin cream ranked 1. Any cream can then be ranked 1 to 10.
Examples of some
characteristics • Viscosity
• Gloss
• Matt/Shininess
• Creaminess
• Spreadability = long/short
• Melting Sensation
• Greasiness (very, very dry
to very, very fatty)
• Soft feel
• Absorption time
• Residual Film
• Tackiness/Stickiness
• Oily finish
• Smoothness
Sensory analysis example: Anti-Aging Light Lotion for women
aged 30-45 years old with combination/oily skin
Brief
(qualities you want for
the product you are
making)
Sensory Characteristic
to be measured
Ideal score to
be achieved
1 = low,
10 = high
Light skin feel Spreadability 7-8
Perception of mildness Softness 8
No greasy feel Greasiness 2-3
Light film on skin Film Residue 5
Matte finish on skin Shininess after application 1
Sensory Analysis
A scientific discipline used to
measure, analyse and interpret
the characteristics of a product
as they are perceived by the
5 senses
Please note: we don’t offer this professional scientific service analysing each of our products or vegetable oils - it is for
your information only. However, many of the characteristics and properties of vegetable oils are discussed & described in
my book, The Aromantic Guide to Unlocking the Powerful Health and Rejuvenation Benefits of Vegetable Oils.
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-unlocking-the-powerful-health-rejuvenation-benefits-of-vegetable-oils-the-aromantic-
guide-to-uk.htm
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CRAMBE SEED OIL (ORGANIC) Crambe oil is an inedible seed oil, extracted from the seeds of the
Crambe abyssinica, a multibranched annual plant part of the mustard family
that is native to the Mediterranean. It’s also good that it can grow on
marginal land that is not suitable for normal crops.
Crambe seed has 28 to 30 percent protein. The primary products from crambe seed include oil (around 35%),
meal (64-69%) and hulls (3%). The oil content is nearly twice that of soybeans and 8 to 9 percent more than
rapeseed. The primary fatty acids in the seed oil are
erucic acid (approx. 55%).
Interest in crambe oil originally focused on the high
percentage of erucic acid, which had significant
implications for industrial uses, specifically the plastics
industry. Crambe oil's ability to withstand high
temperatures and remain liquid at low temperatures
make it a quality lubricant and transfer oil. Because it is a
very effective lubricant and much more biodegradable
than mineral oils, this oil may be used alone or as
additives for the textile, steel and shipping industries. The oil can also be used in pharmaceuticals, coating
agents, cosmetics, nylon and perfumes. More recently it is also being considered as an oil for use in biofuel
production, because its oil content ranges from 35 to 60 percent with potential yields of over 2,000 pounds per
acre.
The seed contains 30-35% oil. It has the same qualities as Jojoba Oil due to the high quantities of wax esters and
erucic esters, which give a silicon skin feeling. In industry, Crambe Seed Oil has been used as a lubricant, we
understand that this property is just as useful for skin care purposes and gives whole body massage oils fantastic
lubricating properties. Because it offer excellent glide, it will also be good for adding to body lotions.
Aromantic’s Organic Crambe Seed Oil is produced from the seeds of Organic Crambe Abyssinica, under UK Soil
Association Certified Organic processes, by means of pressing below 60° C.
The oil has a feint, neutral odour and a colour typically ranging from light to golden yellow. As this oil is
unrefined, there is some variation and appearance and odour but this is normal. Crambe oil will go cloudy at
temperatures below 20° C and will set into a waxy semi-solid below about 8° C.
Aromantic’s Organic Crambe Seed Oil is an excellent highly stable natural lubricant and emollient. It has a
unique skin-feel combining a light texture with enhanced slip properties without feeling too greasy – this is
attributed to its unique lipid profile.
Due to its high stability Crambe could also be considered as a natural alternative to mineral oils and silicones. It
gives a product a soft, smooth and silky feeling and the skin a radiance, shine and youthful appearance. Due to
Spotlight on...
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its silken nature gives a gliding feel.
Caution: Crambe Seed Oil is not suitable for internal consumption due to its high erucic acid content.
Fatty Acid Content of Crambe Seed Oil
Breakdown of fatty acid content –
average breakdown of Crambe Seed Oil
Continues on page 27
4.6%
8.3%
73.3%
7%
Saturated Fatty Acid Palmitic Acid 2%
Behenic Acid 2.1%
Arachidic Acid 1.4%
Stearic Acid 1%
Lignoceric Acid 0.5%
Monounsaturated Fatty Acid Erucic Acid 54%
Oleic Acid 18%
Nervonic Acid 1.2%
Palmitoleic Acid 0.1%
Duounsaturated Fatty Acid Linoleic Acid 8.3%
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid Alpha Linolenic Acid 4.6%
26 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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*TEWL=Transepidermal Water Loss
*AOM (Active Oxygen Method) Rancimat method = Both methods evaluate the effects of antioxidants on oils and food products
containing oils and fats. The Rancimat instrument is more efficient and effective while AOM is said to be a more complicated method.
Recommended Uses/Applications
We recommend Crambe Seed Oil for use in products which are designed to
give enhanced slip/lubricity and protection. Due to its high stability and skin-
feel, Crambe oil may be suitable as a natural replacement for synthetic oils
such as mineral oils and silicones.
Applications include:
• Massage Oils
• Hair Conditioning Lotions
• Shaving Products
• Lip Balms
• Dry Skin Lotions
Please see pages 8-9- for more information, for recipes see pg 30.
For website description or to order, click:
http://www.aromantic.co.uk/buy-crambe-seed-oil-organic-uk.htm
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Breakdown of fatty acid content –
average breakdown of Rice Bran CO2 Extract
2.5%
45%
4.5%
30.2%
Fatty Acid Content of
Rice Bran CO2 Extract Saturated Fatty Acid Palmitic Acid 12-22%
Stearic Acid 0.5-4%
Arachidic Acid ≤ 1.2%
Behenic Acid ≤ 1%
Eicosenic Acid ≤ 1%
Myristic Acid ≤ 1%
Monounsaturated Fatty Acid Oleic Acid 0.5-4%
Palmitoleic Acid ≤ 0.5%
Duounsaturated Fatty Acid Linoleic Acid 29-45%
Polyunsaturated Fatty Acid Alpha Linolenic Acid ≤ 2.5%
A message from Kolbjorn about the
Traditional Herbal Medicinal
Products Directive (THMPD) Regarding the new European directive legislation coming into force 1 May 2011,
I have been talking to people in the industry and the general consensus seems to
be that you don’t need to worry if you make purely cosmetic products that contain herbs in them but more
will become clear in the months ahead. The problem comes when you make medical claims for the product
when selling them to the public. However, if you are a qualified herbalist or aromatherapist and you sell the
products to your clients as part of the consultation, then that appears to be easier.
We can still sell tinctures that we have in stock before 1st
May (this stock is called legacy stock) for 2 years. After
that we will only be able to sell approved tinctures. Please don’t ask us which they are – that’s very much in
progress at the moment and not under our control but alcoholic extracts of single herbs seem to come out the
best so far in this law. We are also looking into the possibility of making glycerine-extracted herbs in the future.
As the main threat in the future appears to be to the herbal tinctures that we stock, we at Aromantic have a
very large stock of tinctures and we have made 500ml sizes available on our website to cater for our customers
who want to stock up. We are also allowed to sell our legacy stocks for two more years and by then we should
have other types of extracts to replace them with.
In the meantime make your voice heard by signing the Alliance for Natural Health petition against this fast-
approaching Directive. You can watch this free video outlining important information on European directive
against natural health and herbal remedies. http://www.savenaturalhealth.eu/ The video ends with a link to a
petition you can sign. AVAAZ also have a petition you can sign at http://www.avaaz.org/en/
eu_herbal_medicine_ban/ There are 32,000 of you on our email list – if we all sign the petition and pass it on
top your contacts, we can make a difference!
To a healthy future for all of us, Kolbjorn
28 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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More information about THMPD
Quoting the Alliance for Natural Health website:
Together toward a better THMPD!
http://anh-europe.org/news/together-toward-a-better-thmpd
On Wednesday 23 March 2011, representatives of herbal medicine
drawn from across the European Union (EU) expressed broad support
for proposed legal action aimed at reforming the Traditional Herbal
Medicinal Products Directive (THMPD), at a meeting convened in
Brussels, Belgium by the Alliance for Natural Health International
(ANH-Intl) and the European Benefyt Foundation (EBF). ANH-Intl/EBF
received many offers to provide evidence for the legal case, underlining the industry's depth of concern at the
implications of the legislation.
The clock is ticking
On Sunday 1 May 2011, the THMPD was technically implemented in all EU Member States. This is the day that
many manufacturers and retailers of herbal products, as well as herbal medicine practitioners and consumers,
have been dreading. As we have written extensively in the past, many hundreds of herbal remedies, currently
sold off-the-shelf for relief of minor, self-limiting ailments, will become illegal from this date unless registered
under the THMPD scheme.
The 23 March meeting answered three main questions posed by the attendees, who represented
manufacturers, retailers, distributors and practitioners of herbal medicines from many EU Member States. Why
is a judicial review of the THMPD necessary? What will such legal action involve? And what are the chances of
success?
KEY POINTS
• The ANH-Intl/EBF judicial review of the THMPD is backed by a broad cross-section of European herbal
interests, many of whom have agreed to provide evidence
• Judicial review has become necessary largely because of flaws in the Directive's text and
implementation, plus failure of diplomacy and lobbying
• Disproportionality, transparency and discrimination represent legal grounds for the judicial review
• Judicial review seeks to reform, not overturn, the THMPD, with the ultimate goal of a regulatory
system inclusive of all traditions and practitioner-prescribed products
• A superb legal team will fight the judicial review, giving it every chance of success
Useful links:
Please watch this free video outlining important information on a crazy new European directive against natural
health and herbal remedies. http://www.savenaturalhealth.eu/. The video ends with a link to a petition you can
sign. AVAAZ, which is an organisation that seems to move mountains, also have a petition you
can sign at http://www.avaaz.org/en/eu_herbal_medicine_ban/ Thank you.
Video by ANH to challenge the European directive’s threat to the free use of traditional herbs.
http://www.anh-europe.org/videos/anh-challenge-to-eu-threat-to-traditional-herbs
29 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Method for making
Natural Leave-in Hair Conditioner
1) Heat Stage 1 over 70˚C in a bain-marie.
2) Measure Stage 2 into another beaker and
heat to over 70˚C.
3) Using a handheld electric whisk slowly add
Stage 2 INTO Stage 1, increasing the speed as
the oil is added.
4) Heat the water in Stage 3 and whisk in the
xanthan gum until it forms a light gel.
5) The add the blended Stage 2 and 1 INTO
Stage 3 to for a thin white solution.
6) When cooled to room temperature (or under
35˚C) stir Stage 4 in thoroughly.
Recipe Corner
Natural Leave-in Hair Conditioner
NB: This product involves heating. Makes 100ml.
Stage 1
(70-75ºC)
6g Cold Emulsifier
Stage 2
(70-75ºC)
3g Crambe Seed Oil
9g Shea Butter
8ml/g Sunflower Oil
Stage 2
(70-75ºC)
72ml Still Spring Water
0.2g Xanthan Gum
Stage 4
(75-80ºC)
1g Preservative Eco
10-12 drops Essential Oils
0.3g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)
Salt Scrub
Not heated. NB The Body Scrub will turn to “milk”
when rinsed off or used on wet skin.
Makes 100ml.
Stage 1 20g Cold Emulsifier
Stage 2 63g Olive Oil
Stage 3 16g Fine Sea Salt
10-12 drops Essential Oils
0.3g Vitamin E Oil (undiluted)
New Recipes for Cold Emulsifier
Method for making Salt Scrub
1) Start the handheld electric whisk in stage 1
ingredients at quite a fast speed and then
slowly add Stage 2 ingredients INTO stage
1, increasing the speed as the oil is added.
2) Mix the Stage 3 ingredients into the Gel
(stage 1 and 2 combined).
30 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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Recipe Corner
Recipes for Crambe Seed Oil
Crambe Seed Whole Body
Massage Oil
For dry, mature and sensitive skin. Makes 100ml.
30ml Crambe Seed Oil
25ml Jojoba Oil
20ml Apricot Kernel Oil
20ml Avocado Oil
4ml Thistle Oil
0.5g Vitamin E Oil
0.5ml/g
(10-12
drops)
Essential Oils
Crambe Seed Hair Oil
Apply as a hair treatment once or twice a week.
Makes 100ml.
25ml Crambe Seed Oil
20ml Jojoba Oil
20ml Thistle Oil
15ml Avocado Oil
5ml Shea Butter Oil
10ml Coconut Oil, Fractionated
4g Vitamin E Oil
5 drops Rosemary CO2 Extract
0.5ml/g
(10-12
drops)
Essential Oils
Method for making both
Oil Blends
1) Measure all of the ingredients and pour
into a bottle.
2) Secure lid and keep in a cool, dark place
away from direct sunlight.
31 Aromantic Newsletter no. 33, May 2011
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In memory of Louise It is with great sadness that we have to
inform you of the sudden passing away of
our dear friend and colleague, Louise
Hutcheson, on 29th March 2011, just four
days after her family discovered that she
had a very aggressive and rare cancer.
Louise was, for many you, your first contact
with Aromantic as she answered your phone
calls and returned your emails and queries,
always with good humour and a smile. Her
sister Jacqui, and her niece, Laura, also
work here at Aromantic.
Louise’s funeral was held on Tuesday 5th
April, the day before what would have been
her 40th birthday, and over 300 people,
most wearing something purple at Louise’s
request, came to pay their respects to this
remarkable woman. We’ll all miss her
presence, sense of humour,
mischievousness, and most of all her
radiant smile, which always extended to her
beautiful eyes.
On the day of Louise’s 40th birthday, as the
staff at Aromantic gathered for morning coffee,
a purple balloon blew up the lane and tapped
on the window before disappearing from view.
We all laughed, saying that it was our Louise stopping by to say hello. Imagine our surprise
when another member of staff walked in asked about the purple balloon that was wedged
between a pallet that had just been delivered and the outside wall beneath the window! We
brought in the balloon and it has since been given to Louise’s big sister, Jacqui, who gave it to
her Dad.
Farewell, our lovely Louise – we will always
remember you with love and laughter...and a few tears.
_Éâ|áx [âàv{xáÉÇ
6 April 1971 - 29 March 2011