Athens guide for visitors

Athens guide

for visitors

2014

1The LifOAthens Guide2014

WelcomeIf you thought of Athens as just a necessary evil of your trip on the way to the islands, it’s time you changed your mind. The modern city offers an amazing variety of activities and places of interest to keep you happy and busy while you’re waiting for the boat. Admittedly, concrete-loving Athens is not the prettiest of cities, but within the urban landscape you’ll find oases of old-style neighbourhoods and small parks, ancient sites and museums packed with some of the most celebrated artefacts in the world. Add to that the excellent weather, yummy food, vivid nightlife and the open, leisured lifestyle for which Greeks are famous and you have an irresistible mix. Ath-ens is blessed with a long coastline dotted with clear blue beaches just a bus ride away from its centre, making it a starting point for swimmers cautiously taking their first dips of the summer season. The capital of Greece is like a public experiment, always changing and reinventing itself. Constructions, renova-tions and excavations are a daily feature, giving you the opportunity to watch the city changing before your eyes - and filling your shoes with dust. Athens is very different from other European capitals: You walk down an avenue with neoclassical and middle-of-the-century architecture, boutiques and cafés but two blocks down you have the feeling you’ve entered the chotic lifestyle of an oriental city. This combination of European and oriental flair, Greek and Balkan style, as well as the Athenians’ unwaivering love of Europe, create a confusing and seduc-tive mix for the visitor. The present economic crisis has undoubtedly dampened the city’s usual high spirits as the country struggles to put its finances in order by cutting government spending, opening up the economy and restructuring the bureau-cratic public sector. With austerity biting hard on people’s dwindling wages, protests and strikes have become part of everyday life which, in the worst case scenario, means you may face a frustrating strike in state-run museums and sites. Having said this, the city will not disappoint you. Athens has experienced major facelifts over the past decade, most of which took place in view of the Athens 2004 Olympics. The basic public transport and road infrastruc-ture has seriously improved, with the new airport and Metro providing a much-needed upgrade of services and faster commuting. If you’re staying in the city centre, you will find that most sites, museums and other places of interest are within walking distance from each other, and the Metro will effectively get you anywhere you want to go. All the same, traffic chaos and pollution remains an issue, as Greeks love to get behind the wheel even for the shortest of distances. One of the most impressive changes over the last decade was the seamless integration of the ancient and the mod-ern parts of town. A pedestrian walkway created to connect the most significant archaeological sites surrounding the Acropolis Hill has united them with the 19th-century neoclassical houses, new restaurants, cafés and every-day lives of its roughly four million inhabitants. There is no doubt that Athens is at its best in summer, when daily activities move out into the open air, with ca-fés, restaurants and bars serving customers in gardens, courtyards and even on pavements, allowing you to make the most of the balmy weather and moonlit sky.

2 Contents

PublisherStathis Tsagarousianos

Editor in Chief Michalis Michael

Articles Editor Daphne Papadopoulou

DesignersChristos Tzovaras Vanessa FerleKostas Stanellos

Illustrations Dreyk The Pirate

Photographers Spyros StaverisNikos KatsarosFreddie F.Stathis MamalakisParis Tavitian

Coordination Markella AndrikakiXenia Stasinopoulou

Sales Demetra Passomenou Ismini VourdahaKostas MantasGeorge LykourgiotisAkis MichalopoulosIoulia ValsamiSpiros ApostolopoulosNefeli KitsiouVoula KaravaggeliSelja Ternova

Produced by DYO DEKA EKDOTIKI SA22 Voulis st.Syntagma SquareAthens 105 61, Greecewww.lifo.grFor queries or comments email us at [email protected]

04-29Must-seesWhat to see while on holiday in Athens. The museums, the Acropolis and all the important spots to visit.

30-37The Great OutdoorsAthens is not just the Acropolis. A guide for al fresco walks and visits to the seaside.

38-75The Good LifeAll the good restaurants for different budgets, some bars for cocktails and fun, everything for the perfect shopping spree, and information on how to act like a Greek while you’re there.

76-80Useful InformationImportant phone num-bers, maps, hotels etc.

Contents

4 Must-sees

Must-sees

There’s no doubt which site is the highlight of Athens. The Acropolis Hill crowns the sprawl-ing city as a constant reminder of its celebrated past and the uninterrupt-ed inhabitation of the city through the millennia. But Athens is not just a place to admire dead his-tory. Though still emerg-ing, modern art is making its mark in the city’s cultural map. The unifi-cation of archaeological

sites in the city centre has created a three kilometre pedestrian promenade, which connects the ancient sites around the Acropolis Hill with the neighbourhoods around it. The cities unmissables include the Acropolis Hill, the Archaeological museum, the pedestrian centre, Benaki, Cycladic, Islamic and Jewish Muse-ums, as well as the oldest stadium in Europe, the Panathenaic.

The city is filled with festivals, galleries and contemporary cultural events that reach their peak during the summer season, when the Greek Festival (June-August) is in full swing and a series of foreign and Greek productions of classic and experimental theatre, music, dance, concerts and opera take over the capital. Modern viewings are presented in ancient theatres, while classi-

cal theatre is played in innovative ways. There are some seriously good shows every summer that will satisfy every taste. For all information concerning the festival, including programme and ticket booking, check the festival’s excellent website at www.greekfestival.gr, or pick up a copy of the programme from the festival’s ticket office at 39 Panepistimiou Street (Metro: Panepistimio).

6 Must-sees

You can start your walk from Dionyssiou Areop-agitou Street, across from the Temple of Zeus in Makriyanni, and follow the cobblestone path around the Hill.


The most enjoyable way to get a fuller picture of Athens’s historic centre is to stroll through the ancient ruins and narrow streets surrounding the Acropolis. The recent plan to unify the ar-chaeological sites around the Acropolis Hill by pedestrianizing the streets and restoring monuments and listed buildings in the area has met with such success that Athenians have almost forgotten how it was before. The great thing about this route is that you can plan it any time of the day; either in daytime by pausing to visit sites on the way, or in the even-ing, as part of your walk around the city centre. A good starting point would be from Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, right across the Temple of Zeus in Makriyanni and then follow the cobblestone

path around the Hill. On your way, you see the Acropolis Hill and the Parthenon, the ancient Odeon of Herod Atticus, Filopappou Hill, and further away, the hills of Imittos and Parnetha. The street is then renamed Apostolou Pavlou and you reach the picturesque square of Thissio, one of the liveliest neighbour-hoods of the city, with cafés and restaurants lining the streets. High up on Ermou Street you find the vast Keramikos cemetery, were Atheni-ans were buried from 3,000 BCE until the 6th century CE. Continuing your walk you end up in Monastiraki from where you can either follow the route towards Gazi and Keramikos, or walk towards neighbouring Plaka.

The ancient promenade

8 Must-sees

The Attalos Arcade (Stoa of Attalos) is a two-sto-rey arcade built by king Attalos, King of Perga-mon around 150 BC. It is thought to have been an ancient shopping center that housed 21 shops on each of its floors. The Arcade, now serving as the sites’ museum, forms part of the Ancient Agora, an extensive area which housed, among others, administrative buildings, shops, schools, law courts, prisons, thea-tres even the city mint that produced its silver coins. The Agora was the political, cultural and re-ligious center. Athenians would gather on a daily basis, not only to buy and sell their goods, but also to learn the news, to criticize the govern-ment, to debate issues or

simply to gossip. This is where philosophers like Socrates spent his days debating different issues. It is dominated by three monuments: the Attalos Arcade, the Temple of Hephaisteion and the Byzantine Church of the Holy Apostles. The Arcade stood for nearly five hundred years until it was burnt down in AD 267 by the Heruli tribe. It was rebuilt by the American School of Classical Studies between 1953 and 1956 on the original foundations us-ing the original materials and is now used as a museum which show-cases all the finds from the Agora. Some of the museum’s most interest-ing artifacts include the klepsydra, a water clock used for timing speeches

and ancient ballot boxes for voting and children’s toys. Last year, the museum opened its first floor, for the first time after 30 years, following extensive restoration. The visitor will now have the opportunity to admire about 56 artefacts dating from the post-Classical to the Roman periods, some of which have never been exhibited before. The room will exhibit models of buildings, portraits of the Roman Agora and the warehouse which houses the findings from the surrounding area. At the same time, models of the surrounding area will allow the visitor to visually connect the Arcade with other nearby sites, such as Pnyka – the area where Athenians gathered to listen to the

speeches of their leaders. The statues exhibited will be in organised in six loose groups, instead of the usual linear style. Among the groups, one will include artefacts of the post-Classic and Hel-lenistic period (4th and 3rd centuries BC), an-other will include Roman copies of Greek classical works of the 1st and 2nd centuries AD, a third will have Roman portraits of the same period, and another will exhibit col-umns with busts of public officials.

AnCIEnT AGorAMonastiraki, entrance from Adrianou Street / Ticket: 12 for the combo ticket that includes the Acropolis / Hours: Mon to Sun 08:00-20:00 / Metro: Monastiraki

Attalos Arcade

10 Must-sees

Syntagma, Akropolis & Plaka

Monastiraki Square at night.


These three neighbour-hoods constitute the core of Athens and are the main destination for anyone visiting the city and with good reason. The white marbles of the Parthenon tower over the historic centre of the city and around the Hill, the old neighbourhoods with their small houses and quiet side-streets offer relief from the noise and heat of the modern city. These neighbourhoods, the most photographed areas of the city, are the ideal places to start your walk when you fly into town. Syntagma square is the centre of the city. For-merly a palace, the Parlia-ment building and the square in front of it have been the ground of many important political events in the country’s history. At the front courtyard there’s the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, paying tribute to the country’s dead soldiers, as well as the colourful Evzones – traditionally dressed guards. Every hour the changing of the presidential guards gath-ers many spectators who enjoy seeing men in kilts performing a perfectly synchronised ceremonial. Behind the Parliament building, the National Gardens offer a much needed patch of green and shadow in the capi-tal. They are open from sun dawn to sun dusk and are accessible from Vasilisis Amalias avenue or Irodou Attikou Street. The Gardens host about 47,000 trees and plants, a botanical museum, small ponds with fish and ducks, as well as a café. At the southern side of the Gardens, you’ll find Zappeio Mansion, a donation of the wealthy Konstantinos Zappas in the 19th century, used today as a conference

centre. During the day, Zappeion serves as a getaway from the noise and the traffic of the city, while in the evening it’s a meeting point for those heading to the café, cinema or bar-restaurant located in the adjacent buildings. The historic neighbour-hood of Plaka embosoms the Acropolis Hill on all

sides. Together with Mo-nastiraki, they contain an endless variety of historic sites from different eras and civilisations –Pre-historic, Greek, Roman, Ottoman. Apart from its touristy side, Plaka is one of the few remain-ing neighbourhoods of the city that retain their unique neoclassical architectural style of old

Athens. A walk through its winding streets is a glimpse in the way people lived and interacted with one another in the geitonia (neighbourhood) when everyone knew their neighbours and a daily stop at the café was a ritual. Perched right under the Acropolis is the quaint Anafiotika quarter, a quiet area with whitewashed Cycladic-style houses. These small houses were built by stone masons from the Cycladic island of Anafi in the mid-19th century, who arrived in Athens to work at the construc-tion of the royal palace after independence. The beautiful white Church of Aghios Georgios marks the area from afar. Walk-ing towards the train lines, you enter Monasti-raki, the biggest open-air museum in the country. On Adrianou Street is the Ancient Agora, the centre of government in ancient Athens, while the amazing Temple of Hephestos built in 449 BCE, is the best preserved Doric temple in Greece. At the corner of Eolou and Adrianou Streets you find the Roman Agora and the impres-sive, octagonal Tower of the Winds that is said to have been a sundial and a water clock. As an impressive proof of the successive civilisa-tions that inhabited the area, inside the Roman Agora you also find the beautiful Fethiye Djami, one of the few surviving examples of Ottoman mosques in Athens. The second one is Tsistaraki Mosque, found right on Monastiraki Square, which has been renovated and is now housing the Kyriazopoulos Folk and Ceramic Museum, with a collection of over 800 pieces of ceramics from all over the country.

POeTic jusTice: Walking through Plaka, at the junction of Iperidou, Kekropos and Sotiros Streets, right across Nefeli Hotel, there is a boarded-up crumbling house, outside of which you may encounter the ‘poet’, an English-speaking man who has used the boards sealing the house as a can-vas to make his humorous remarks on Greece’s political and economic woes. His comment reads: “Wanted, dead or alive, Greek Prime Minister, no qualifications or brains re-quired, only well-connected. Permanent position, five-star salary, tax-free offshore, apply online anytime.”

12 Must-sees

Against all odds, the Acropo-lis Hill (entrance from Dio-nysiou Areopagitou Street) dominates the Athenian skyline in a remarkable way. Climbing the 70-metre Hill the history of the ancient city unfolds before you start-ing from Neolithic times, when the first findings are dated. Its flat top is due to the numerous landfills that have accommodated construction of fortifica-tions and temples since the Mycenaean era.The first building you encounter when you enter is the Propylea (437-432 BCE), the monumental entrances to the area, made from marble of mount Pendeli to mark the entrance to the religious complex. Its function was to receive and assemble the visitors and it was built in the Doric order with few Ionic columns supporting the roof of the central wing. The architect of the project Mnesikles who began building right after the main construction of the Parthenon was completed

in 437 BCE. However, five years later the Pelopon-nesian war erupted and construction had to stop. At the southwest is the elegant Temple of Athena Nike (426-421 BCE) of Ionian order, designed by the other wonder child of architecture, Kallikrates. It is said that it housed the statue of Athena Nike, which was made of wood and held a helmet in the left hand. Since it had no wings, the temple acquired the name Apteros Nike (wing-less victory). This way, Athenians thought, victory would never leave the city. The Erechtheion (421-c405 BCE) is known for its spec-tacular six female figures functioning as columns, the Caryatids. Possibly named after the women of the city of Karyes, the originals have been transferred into the Acropolis museum. It is a complicated temple. The idea was to accommodate the radically uneven ground on the site, and to avoid dis-turbing sacred shrines that

pre-existed, like the altars to Poseidon and Hephaestus, or the spot where Poseidon hit the Acropolis with his trident. Other elements that needed to be included were the sacred olive tree, well containing sea water, the tomb of Kekrops, and the Pandrosion sanctuary.The Parthenon (447-438 BCE), built for Virgin (Par-thenos) goddess Athena, was made to honour her after she won over the city in a confrontation with Poseidon. Built atop an older temple destroyed by the Persians, Athenians spared no expense in rebuilding a sanctuary of unrivalled craftsmanship. The marble structure of Dor-ic order was 13.72 metres high and 69.50 metres long. Its famous architects, Iktinos and Kallikrates, used marble from the nearby mount Penteli throughout the build-ing for the first time in such constructions. The building was meat to impress with the first glance and so it did, as visitors entered the Acropolis from Propylea and saw it in

three quarter view. Its main function was to house the colossal statue of Athena that was made by Phedias out of gold and ivory.The topic of the sculpted decorations was the myths regarding goddess Athena and the Persian defeat by Athens. All artwork, supervised by the sculptor Phedias, was completed by 432 BCE. The decoration of the Parthenon combines the Doric metopes and triglyphs on the entablature, with the Ionic frieze on the walls of the cella. They depict the Gigantomachy on the east side, the Amazonomachy on the west, the Centauromachy on the south, and scenes from the Trojan War on the north.The value of the Parthenon lies, among other things, in the fact that at the time it was built, it epitomised the ideals Athenian society had developed during Pericles’s Golden Age: Democracy, ac-curacy through mathematics, aesthetics, and focus on the individual.

The Acropolis Hill & the Parthenon


14 Must-sees


Acropolis MuseumAll antiquities formerly crammed in the small museum atop the namesake hill were transported during 2007 in a mammoth-sized operation. The last exhibits were placed into their new positions in April 2008. The building, designed by Swiss architect Bernard Ts-chumi and Greek architect Mihalis Photiades, is made out of cement, stainless steel and glass, with spacious galleries. According to the architects, the idea behind the structure was to keep it solemn and simple, in an effort to focus attention on the exhibits, rather than the building itself.The exhibition rooms house the most important arte-facts of the classical period, as well as other treasures that were previously kept in storage for lack of space. The museum has divided its roughly 4,000 artefacts in five collections: The finds from the slopes of the Acropolis Hill, antiquities from the archaic period, the classical period, the post-classical era and the Roman period. Some of the most emblematic ancient Greek antiquities are displayed: The archaic Kouroi (male statues) and Kores (female statues), a vast number of pottery, mar-ble sculptures of maidens and athletes, the Parthenon frieze and all its surviving parts.Visitors will also have a chance to admire a collection of artefacts dug out during the excavation process on the ground floor and inspect the ancient city-beneath-the-city. Archaeologists uncovered ancient roads, houses, bath houses and workshops dating between 3,000 BCE-1,200 BCE, all of which can now be examined through a glass floor that extends from the outside area to the main hall. The route one follows forms a spiral pathway leading from the ground floor where the archaic artefacts are exhibited upwards to-wards the Parthenon marbles and back down through the Roman era. The top floor houses the Parthenon frieze which is displayed in its original, 2,500-year-old full-length entirety, placed at the same angle as it did when it was on its original location, to maximise its effect on the viewer. The pieces missing from the frieze, famously known as the Elgin Marbles, have been replaced by duplicates. Greeks have been very vocal in requesting the originals back from the British Museum where they have been housed since Lord Elgin hacked them off the Parthenon in 1801. Don’t forget to visit the top floor café and restaurant for the best view in town. Visitors can book tickets on-line or buy them directly at the museum booth. Tourist groups roll in early, so try to be there before 8am.

EnTrAnCE from Dionysiou Areopagitou, Makri-yanni, Tel: +03 210 9241043, Mon 08:00-16:00 / Fri 08:00-22:00 / all other days 08:00-20:00 / Entrance: €5 / Fri: Restaurant open till midnight / www.theacropolis-museum.gr

Clockwise from left: The Archaic gallery, the mu-seum exterior, exibits in the Archaic Gallery, and the Parthenon Gallery.

16 Must-sees

jewish museumHoused in a beautiful 19th century mansion, the Jewish museum traces the long history of the Romaniote and Sephardic Jewish communities in Greece, starting from the 3rd century BCE, through WWII and the present day. The vast majority of Greek Jews were killed in concentration camps during the WWII. Initially established in 1977, it collected jewellery, rare books and publications, textiles and domestic and religious artefacts in an effort to study preserve and exhibit all aspects of the lives of Greek Jews. As the collection grew, the museum’s activities expanded both in research and study of the Greek Jews and publishing. The exhibit moved to new grounds and the initial collections were enriched with added artefacts. The ground floor exhibits religious artefacts from synagogues that have closed down and ritual textiles dating from the 14th-19th centuries CE.

A collection of items used in everyday and religious life are showcased next to costumes, photographs and documents. The photographic archive, consisting of original black-and-white or colour pictures as well as printed copies and slides, offers an invaluable glimpse at the everyday life of Greek Jews in various cities of the country.

39 Nikis, Plaka, Tel: +30 210 3225582, Hrs: Mon-Fri 09:00-14:30, Sun 10:00-14:00, Tickets: €5 / Metro: Syntagma.

centre of Folk Art & TraditionExperience the traditional way of Greek life in this quaint little mansion, created to preserve old-school Greek arts such as embroidery, needlework, traditional costume creation and pottery. The house was the residence of folklorist Angeliki Hatzimihali (1895-1965) and showcases object of Greek craftsmanship like embroideries and musical

instruments, as well as an impressive library with books on Balkan folk art and crafts.

6 Hatzimihali Ange-liki, Plaka, Tel: +30 210 3243972, Hours-Central building: Tue-Sun 08:00-15:00 / The Mosque: Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun: 08:00-15:00 / Bathhouse of the Winds: Mon, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat, Sun: 08:00-15:00 / The Building at 22 Panos Str: Tue-Sun 08:00-15:00 / Tickets: €2 / Metro: Syntagma

Museum of Greek Folk Art Dedicated to Greek folk art, like embroidery, ceramics, shadow-theatre and wood-carvings, as they developed from the 17th century onwards, this amazing museum is housed in four differ-ent annexes. The main building (17 Kydathineon Street), houses the main collection of traditional costumes, silverware, embroidery, engraving and stone sculpture, as well as the amazing

“Painted Chamber” by Theofilos Chatzimichail (1860-1934), a classical example of naïf art that once decorated the official chamber of a house on Lesvos Island (Mytilini). The old Tzirdaraki Mosque (1 Areos Street), houses the fine Kyriazo-poulou pottery collection. The third venue is the Bathhouse of the Winds (8 Karystou Street), the only public bath of Athens surviving today, dating to the first period of Ottoman rule (1453-1669). While the collection which will be housed there is being prepared, one can visit the venue itself and explore its amazing labyrinth architecture. Last but not least, the building at 22 Panos Street is housing an exhibition titled: “Men and Tools. Aspects of Labor in Pre-industrial Society.”Recently the museum opened a shop (45 Adri-anou Street, Monastiraki), featuring tasteful replicas of embroidery, shadow puppets, children’s toys, jewelry, scarves, books and decorative objects, inspired by the museum’s rich collection.

Ilias Lalaounis Jewelry Museum

Numismatic Museum


18 Must-sees

17 Kydathineon, Plaka, Tel: +30 210 3229031, Hours: Tue-Sun 09:00-19:00 / www.melt.gr / Metro: Syntagma

Numismatic MuseumA massive collection of ancient coins found in Greece from antiquity through the Byzantine and modern times, is housed in a impressive building which used to be the house of German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. One gallery is dedicated to the famous archaeologist, exhibiting personal papers and col-lections, while the others exhibit different type of coins found all over Greece. A famous item is the “Coin hoard from Myrina”, a vase contain-ing 149 silver coins from Aegina. The museums’ outdoor café, apart from

being one of city’s best kept secrets, offers a quick respite after a long day.

12 Panepistimiou, Syntagma, Tel: +30 210 3643774, Hours: Tue-Sun 08:30-16:30, Tickets: €3 / www.nma.gr / Metro: Syntagma.

ilias Lalaounis jewelry MuseumThis is a private museum established by accom-plished Greek jeweler Ilias Lalaounis to showcase the history and art of jewelry-making from ancient times. There are enough jewelry items here to create a new gold-rush, with visitors admiring about 4,000 items designed by the museums’ founder. Each

collection has a different theme: One is inspired by the art, archaeology and anthropologic findings of prehistoric Europe and Greece, another is influenced by the Arabic, Celtic and Iranian art and there’s even a collection influenced by technology, astronomy and biology.

12 Kallisperi & Kary-atidon, Makrigianni, Tel: +30 210 9221044 / www.lalaounis-jewelrymuseum.gr / Metro: Akropoli

Museum of Greek Popular instrumentsGreek music lovers will be enthused with the exhibit of 1,200 popular music instruments dating from the 18th century offering a glimpse in the variety

of music sounds. The museum displays about half of the instruments forming the Anoyanakis Collection, which were selected on the criterion not only of their aesthetic but also of their ethno-logical and musicological interest. The remaining instruments are avail-able for research and for travelling exhibitions and for occasional exhibitions of a special nature. The collection is spread over three floors and divided into four sections, accord-ing to the material that is made to vibrate, bearing tongue-twisting names such as membranophones, aerophones, chordo-phones and idiophones.

1-3 Diogenous, Plaka, Tel: +30 210 3254119, 3250198, Hrs: Tue -Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun 11:00-16:00, Entrance: Free / Metro: Monastiraki.

FuLL MOON eveNTs: August’s full-moon always appears to be the largest of the year and Athenians have a unique way of celebrating it. Traditionally, the Ministry of Culture opens up dozens of archaeological sites and museums around the country, allowing visitors free entry and a chance to enjoy them under the moonlight. In addition to that, the ministry orga-nizes several open-air concerts around town. Romantics take to the small hills around the Acropolis (Philopappou, Pnyka) as the idea of admiring the city and its past under the moon is unbeatable. As expected, most people are eager to enter the Acropolis Hill as the image of the Parthenon against a giant bright moon is a major crowd-puller – and makes for a great picture too. Others opt for the serene Temple of Poseidon in Sounio, as well as the ancient Keramikos cemetery. This year’s August falls on the 21st.

Museum of Greek Folk Art Museum of Greek Popular Instruments


20 Must-sees

Benaki MuseumThe private museum in the city’s chic neigh-bourhood of Kolonaki is housed in a beautiful 19th century neo-classical mansion, donated by Greek benefactor Antonis Benakis. The first floor is dedicated to Palaeolithic and Bronze Ages, the Cycladic, Mycenaean and classical era. There is a vast collection of tools, marble vessels, golden jewellery and painted pottery, glassware, ceramics, funerary stele, murals, Fayum portraits, as well as a large collec-tion of roman statues. Don’t miss the Fayum “Portrait of a Young Man”. It’s an expres-sive portrait of a male form from Antinoopoli of Egypt, painted with the encaustic method on linen. It dates from the 3rd century CE and many components of the new wave in Greek painting have their roots in it. Another important painting is Theodoros Vyzakis’s painting “The Oath at Agia Lavra” (1851), a work of his-

toric significance, whose composition marks a myth surrounding the beginning of the War for Independence in Kalavrita on the 25th of March 1821.There is an excellent collection of Byzantine icons and mosaics as well as beautifully knit-ted religious fabrics. The first floor offers a glimpse of 17th-18th century Greece, with a collection of traditional festive and bridal attires, embroideries, jewellery, woodwork and items of daily use from Crete, the Dodecanese, Cyclades and Cyprus. The wood-en Cretan loom is a mas-terpiece, as well as the wooden chests and the intricate golden jewellery. Don’t miss the recon-structions of the interiors of the houses of regional noblemen from the 18th century. The second floor showcases musical instru-ments and books, while the third is dedicated to post-revolutionary (post-1821) Greece. There are manuscripts by poets such as Dionysios Solomos, paintings, furniture, personal items of revolutionary figures

1 Koumbari Street, Kolonaki, 210 3671000, www.benaki.gr / Ticket: 6 Euros, temporary exhibitions: 3 Euros / Metro: Syntagma

Kolonaki & Lycavittos HillWalk past Benaki Museum up Koumbari Street (or follow Kanari Street starting from Academias street) and you’ll find yourself in Kolonaki square, the centre of town. Officially called Platia Filikis Eterias (Friendly Society Square), it is unofficially known for its chic boutiques, society kids, overpriced coffee and preferred residence of the upper class. Kolonaki (means little column) was named after a small ancient column still standing in the middle of the square. Culture in Kolonaki revolves around its impressive museums and contemporary galleries, housing the top of the crop in artists both Greek and foreign.


Far below: The Benaki Museum exterior. In all other photos pieces from the museum’s vast collection that covers a large swathe of Greek history.

and philhellenes like Lord Byron and items of the first royal families to rule Greece. You can also find a selection of paintings by famous 20th century Greek painters like Nikos Eggonopoulos, as well as personal items of Nobel Prize-winners George Sef-eris and Odysseas Elytis. The museum has two more annexes: The mod-ern art division at Pireos Street and the Islamic Museum in Kerameikos (see descriptions below).

Museum of cycladic Art (McA)As its name suggest, this museum showcases the largest collection of the gorgeous white marble figurines of Cycladic Art, which have influenced modern sculptors with their grace, abstractive form and sleek surface. Most of them were discovered in tombs but their meaning is still

debated. These figurines are mostly female, have their hands crossed in front of them and slightly bended knees. The seated figure raising its cup in toast is of exemplary technique, as well as the violin-shaped represent-ing body shapes in the third millennium BC. Other displays show the marble vessels and basins used for religious and everyday activities. On the second floor you’ll find artefacts from Mycenae up until the Ro-

man era: Hydrias, glass vessels for oils, golden objects and amphorae from Attica. The third floor houses temporary exhibitions, while the fourth floor presents the Karolos Politis collection, a rich selection of about 120 artefacts covering all periods of Greek art until the 6th century AC. The collection includes vessels, clay pottery, and beautiful bronze helmets. After your tour, don’t forget to visit the gift shop with its beautiful replicas of the iconic Cycladic figurines.

4 Neofytou Douka street, Kolonaki, Tel: +30 210 7228321 / Ticket: 7, on Monday 3.5 / www.cycladic.gr / Metro: Syn-tagma, Evangelismos

Nikos Hadji-kyriakos-Gkika Gallery The prominent cubist painter, sculptor, etcher, illustrator and academic Nikos Hadjikyriakos-Gkikas (1906-1994) is considered one of the most important Greek artists to date. Influenced by the Parisian avant-garde, the artist pref-ered simple forms and attempted in numerous paintings to deconstruct the Greek landscape into geometric shapes. Works of Hadjikyriakos –Gkikas have been sold in private art collections and are housed is museums around the world, like Tate Gallery in London, Musee d’art moderne in Paris and the Museum of Modern Art in New York. The gallery is the house and workshop where the artist lived and worked for almost 40 years and displays works by both him and other Greek

22 Must-sees

artists of the interwar period, providing a rare glimpse of the artistic output of the time. In the mid 1950s the painter decided to move into the Kriezotou build-ing, which belonged to his family, and occupied the fourth floor. The specious fifth floor was transformed into his personal studio where easels and painting sup-plies are scattered around the room together with artefacts he brought back from his travels. Starting from the large, iron entrance, the visi-tor enters the a drawing room in the ground floor which contains works by French painters like Signac, Vlaminck, Utrillo, books and sculptures of prominent Greek artists of his time and furniture dating back to the 16th-18th centuries.The second and third floors display an exem-plery collection of the intellectual and artistic output of Greece during the interwar years and until the eve of the 1967 dictatorship. Through works of art, manu-scripts, publications, pho-tographs and personal artefacts belonging to 201 artists and intellec-tuals, visitors share the world of ideas in Greece through the eyes of the so-called Thirties Genera-tion as well as artists of the second half of the twentieth century. The fourth floor, pre-served in its initial form, familiarises visitors with the artist’s personal living space: the living room with its fireplace, the family portraits, his collection of perfume bot-tles and the dining room. The fifth floor houses his light-filled studio, an area the artist modelled him-self by painting the bricks and where he placed one more library with art

Nicholas and Dolly Goulandris started collecting archaeologi-cal artefacts in the early 1960s, after being granted official permission by the Greek state. The collection soon became renowned among scholars because of its exquisite and rare Cycladic objects (marble figurines and vessels), which were published by Prof. Christos Doumas in 1968.

books and his collection of walking sticks. Visitors can also use a multimedia applica-tion, entitled Nikos Hatzikyriakos-Ghika and the Thirties Generation, designed by the Benaki Museum, which contains the bulk of his works and provides information about the artist’s life and work both in Greece and in Europe. The library contains rare illustrated editions and more than 7,000 volumes mainly on art history, as well as the artist’s photography archive.In 1991, the artist do-nated his own art collec-tion to Benaki Museum, along with his house on Kriezotou Street. The artist himself organised his house into a gallery and the rooms visitors see today are exactly as he left them. The build-ing, a typical example of an interwar apartment block, was designed by the architect Kostas Kitsikis and was included in many architectural publications of the time. The building functioned as an annexe to the museum from 1991-2000, when it closed for maintenance. It re-opened its doors in late 2012.

3 Kriezotou Street, Kolonaki, Tel: +30 210 3630818 / Tickets: 7 / Metro: Syntagma

Byzantine & christian museumOne of the most impres-sive collections of Byzan-tine and post-Byzantine era artwork is stored in the Byzantine Museum. Its aim is to acquire, save, conserve, record and showcase objects of early Christian, Byzantine, Medieval and modern


Clockwise from left: the building of the Byzantine & Christian Museum, art from the current exhibition of the National Museum of Contemporary Art.

religious art. Its 25,000 objects date from the 3rd until the 20th centuries CE and originate from Greece, Asia Minor and the Balkans. Collections include among oth-ers, sculptures, icons, wall-paintings, ceramics, textiles, manuscripts, drawings and chalcog-raphy. Some of the most spectacular objects are the icons and the textiles, most of which are of unparallel craftsmanship, like the 13th century Madonna Glykofilousa (Sweet kisser) and the silk religious frock worn by priests in the 17th century. Continue to the manuscript section and admire the beautiful scrolls, Holy Bibles and the rare Etymologikon (Grammar book) from the early 18th cen-tury. The famous icon of “Archangel Michael” (14th century) rep-resents dedication in classical tradition. The exquisite quality of art

reveals close link to the Instanbul’s workshops of the first half of the 4th century. The museum also holds the Lover-dos collection with its 660 religious artifacts for conservation and indefinite keeping. Don’t miss the photographic exhibition that testifies to the original architectural design of old churches that have since been remodeled or rebuilt.

22 Vasilisis Sofias, Kolonaki, Tel: +30 210 7294926 / Tickets: 4 for temporary exhibition / Metro: Evangelismos.

National Museum of contem-porary Art (NMcA)The demand for a mu-seum of contemporary art in Athens had been pressing for decades and the newly estab-

lished National Museum of Contemporary Art (NMCA) is trying to catch up on lost time. As its permanent home is be-ing constructed (the old Fix brewery in Makri-yanni) it is now housed in the Athens Conserva-tory’s premises, hosting exhibitions of Greek and international artists. To make up for the lack of permanent collec-tion, NMCA organises many shows during the year. Presently it hosts the exhibition Hybrid

Stories, from the EMST collection, consisting of 14 works of video art and film by acclaimed artists such as Robert Wilson, Rebecca Horn, Gary Hill and Jean –Luc Godard, among others (until 15/9/13).

Temporary address: Athens Conservatory, 17-19 Vasileos Georgiou & Rigil-lis (entrance Rigillis), Tel: +30 210 9242111 / Τickets: 3, Exhibitions in media lounge free / www.emst.gr / Metro: Evangelismos

24 Must-sees

Omonia, Exarhia & inner cityAlso known as the ugliest part of Athens and the poster child of Athens’s unchecked “development” of previ-ous decades regardless the numerous and unsuccessful efforts to redesign it, Omonia square still offers some informative glances at inner city life. Apart from the mag-nificent Archaeological museum, the area around Omonia offers little other cultural stimulants and it should be avoided during the night. Nearby Exarhia though is the exception. It is traditionally considered as the black sheep in a family whose other kid is the adjacent neighbourhood of ultra-chic Kolonaki. Originally, its proximity to the Polytechnic University and the establishment of left-wing party headquarters, at-tracted students and intellectuals, allowing it to gradually become a hub of the city’s intelligencia and leftist politi-cal parties. Unfortunately in recent times it also became known as a hangout spot for shady characters, due to the establishment of failed anti-drug addiction centres. Nowadays the area is perfectly safe, but its past has al-lowed it to retain a unique non-conformist character. Its streets are also one of the best open-air graffiti galleries, so take the time to wander around and admire some very artistic creations (Tzavella and Emmanouil Benaki Streets to name a few).

The Archae-ological MuseumAfter its recent much needed renovation, the Archaeological Museum’s spectacular collection of art which flourished in Greece from the Neolithic times until the age of the Roman Empire, is pre-sented in clearer fashion. The building itself carries a long history behind it. It was constructed in various phases from 1866 until 1939 on plans origi-nally made by Ludwig Lange and remodelled by Ernst Ziller. Start with the Prehis-toric collection, which includes artefacts from the Neolithic, Cycladic and Mycenaean periods, testifying to the long hu-man presence in the area now known as Greece (6,800-3,200 BCE). The clay figurine of a man touching his head with his

hand and the voluptu-ous female figurines are some of the most famous Neolithic findings. As you marvel at the iconic Cycladic figurines in the next chamber, don’t miss the largest surviv-ing female figure from Amorgos Island, as well as the amazing harpist, made from dazzling white marble. Continuing with the My-cenaean exhibit, you will be stunned by the spectac-ular treasures discovered in Mycenae by German legendary archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann. The collection includes stone, bronze and ceramic pots, figurines, ivory and glass objects, as well as golden seals and rings from the vaulted tombs in Mycenae and other parts of the Peloponnese. The delicate golden funerary masks, cups and jewel-lery, as well as the carved ivory objects found in the royal tombs testify to the sophistication of the


artistry, while the Linear B inscriptions provide in-formation on the adminis-trative organisation of the Mycenaean world. In this department you will also see the so-called Mask of Agamemnon, the famous gold mask covering the face of a man found in a tomb in Mycenae, originally thought to be the legendary king Agam-emnon. Other masterpieces of the Museum are found in the numerous sculp-ture galleries, where the visitor can trace the development of Greek sculpture from the 7th century BCE to the early Byzantine period. Among other artefacts, you will see the three-metre-tall Kouros from the Temple of Poseidon in Sounio, the bronze two-metre-tall statue of a mystery God (said to be Zeus or Poseidon), and the bronze Hellenistic masterpiece of a young rider on a horse. The Museum also has an

inexhaustible collection of vases, pottery, metalwork and small objects which were used in everyday life.Some of the most remark-able examples of fresco painting from the 16th century BCE come from Santorini, inspiring awe with their intricate details and vibrant colours. Some have been transferred to the Archaeological Museum of Santorini, but the Antelope, the Boxing Children and Spring will dazzle you with their vitality and figurativeness. The Museum recently opened its excellent Egyp-tian collection, considered the fourth most important in Europe. The collec-tion donated by Ioannis Dimitriou in 1880 and Alexandros Rostovic in 1904. In total, the collection includes more than 6,000 artefacts. The visitor can admire the mummies, nine of which were donated by the Egyptian government

in 1893, rare statues, tools, jewels, a wooden body tag for a mummy, a stunning bronze statue of a princess, intact bird eggs and a 3,000-year-old loaf of bread with a bite-sized chunk missing. The exhibition’s centrepiece is a bronze statue of the princess-priestess Takush-it, dating to around 670 BCE. Further down there are also some exquisite Fayum funerary portraits, with their characteristic expressive eyes.Last but not least, do not miss the collection of donors Antonis and Eleni Stathatos whose artefacts span from the 5th mil-lennium BCE until the post-Byzantine era, and includes mostly pottery and jewellery. In 2009, a Cypriot collection of an-tiquities was inaugurated in the Museum, compris-ing of small statues, jew-ellery, jugs and pottery. In 2006 and 2007, new important additions were made. The Getty Museum

of California returned two important artefacts which were considered to have been looted, after a 10-year-old legal dispute with the Greek government. These are a 4th century BCE golden funerary wreath and a 6th century BCE marble statue of a woman. Previously, Getty had agreed to return a 4th century BCE tombstone from an area near Thebes and a 6th century BCE votive relief from the island of Thasos. All can be admired today in the museum. The museum is presently showcasing a temporary exhibition of The Antikythera Ship-wreck (see Must-sees for details).

44 Patision Avenue, Tel: +30 213 21448000, 2144856 / Tickets: €7, free entrance on May 18th, June 5th, last weekend of September / http://www.namuseum.gr / Train: Victoria

26 Must-sees

Thisio


islamic Art museumThe Islamic Art museum of Athens showcases one of the best collections of Islamic art in Europe and is spread across two neoclassical mansions. About 10,000 artefacts of the early Islamic and Ot-toman periods have found their place in this modern museum, including artwork such as the Iznik ceram-ics, carved wooden doors, payer carpets, jars, bowls with intricate designs and bright colors. The first two levels trace the history of Islamic art from the 7th century until the 16th cen-tury, while the fourth level exhibits Iranian artwork of the Qajar period. The ceramic collection is one of the finest of its kind with beautiful items of the Fatimid era, detailed jewelry and calligraphic inscriptions. Among the museum’s highlights are unique pieces like the silk garments, the brass chests, carved wooden doors and Islamic tiles, as well as the detailed reconstruction of a 17th-century interior of a Cairo mansion on the third floor. During the recon-struction of the crumbling building which was to house the museum, work-ers uncovered part of the foundations of the ancient wall of Athens, as well as a tomb. Archaeologists examined and preserved the site and today visitors can see it at the lower lever.

22 Agion Asomaton & Dipylou, Keramikos, Tel: +30 210 3251311 / Entrance: €7, every Thursday free from 15 July 2013 to 15 July 2014 / www.benaki.gr /Train: Thisio.

28 Must-sees

Technopolis - industrial MuseumThe industrial chic cul-tural centre of Technopo-lis in Gazi represents the capital’s turn towards contemporary architecture and art. The old gasworks building dating from 1862 was converted into a com-plex of venues refurbished to house exhibitions, fes-tivals, concerts and other events all year round. In the summer months, Technopolis houses design exhibitions, craft markets and open-air con-certs. The main building’s slender chimney, beauti-fully illuminated with red lights in the evening, has become a local landmark, while other features like the massive furnaces and cauldrons testify to the industrial past of the area. The centre is also home to the city’s first Industrial Museum which organises one-hour guided tours around its prem-ises. The burning of coal to produce gas was an old form of energy used in Athens for over 130 years. The long history of the factory is revealed as visitors wander through various rooms which were not accessible to the public for about 30 years. During the tour, visitors make 13 stops at specific areas around the factory

buildings which mentally track the original produc-tion line of gas and allow visitors to see the old me-chanical equipment and understand the role of the businessmen who run the factory and the working conditions of the workers. The Museum also houses rich photographic and archival material as well as audiovisual material from interviews of old workers and local inhabit-ants. There’s a café at the left of the main entrance offering juices coffees and light snacks open from 8am until midnight on weekdays and from 9am on weekends. The small museum shop is a true gem selling decora-tive and functional objects inspired by the chimneys, machines and iron-works found around the indus-trial complex. The shop controls the whole process of the production of these objects and cooperates with Greek craftsmen and factories, thus supporting their work and domestic production.

100 Pireos, Gazi, Tel: +30 210 3461589 / / to book a guided tour in English call: +30 210 3475535, 210 3475518, 210 346158, cost: €3 per person, minimum 5 persons for each group, includes entrance fee and an Athens Gasworks guide / www.technopolis-athens.com / Metro: Kerameikos

Gazi & Psyrri

Though they are two of the oldest neighbourhoods of Athens, Gazi and Psyrri are today synonymous with trendy, contemporary culture. Psyrri was the first area to change in the mid-nineties, when one by one its old crumbling neoclassical houses and workshops were turned into art galleries, theatres and restaurants. In a few years, the narrow streets of Psyrri filled with cafés, modern tavernas, bars and clubs, all lined up next to the other, packed with people looking for a chair to sit. Without a broader plan for organised gentrification, the area soon reached saturation point and in a few years restless souls were looking for something new. In 2000 Gazi emerged as the next best thing, an un-touched industrial neighbourhood with loads of potential. Once a derelict working class village, the area of Gazi, known locally as Gazohori (village of Gazi) has transformed into a busy neighbourhood. Much of the metamorphosis is due to the restoration of the old factory, the refurbish-ing of public buildings and the opening of restaurants and bars which attracted the city’s youth. The scarlet chimney Technopolis, a hub of modern culture and events, became the point of reference around which the previously forlorn area was being restored. The opening of Benaki Museum’s Pireos annexe cemented Gazi’s newly acquired identity as an up-and-coming, industrial-chic area. Although both areas have by now become part of the mainstream weekend bar crawl, they still sport a distinctive old-town feeling, as they are some of the few places in Athens were you may still find small copper workshops and cobblers. Street art is right at home here, with graffiti artists using any available flat surface to paint. The most impressive one is the colour-ful work of Brazilian artists Os Gemeos painted on the walls of the trolley depot station in Pireos street, right across Technopolis.

Psyrri online: www.psirri.gr.

The great outdoors

32 The GreatOutdoors

One of the perks of living in Athens is the sunny weather year-round, a feature Athe-nians know how to take full advantage of. Much of daily life takes place in the open air: Apart from cafés, bars, restaurants and cinemas, people spill out onto the pavements, picnic in parks, take over hills and over-crowd beaches, stadia and all sorts of public spaces. Take the time to discover the city’s few green spaces by talking a walk through the National Gardens or the Athens Zoo. The small monastery of Kessariani is a true artistic treasure, though rarely visited by tourists. Similarly, a visit to Athens’s First Cemetery offers a chance to admire rare 19th-century marble sculpture and to learn about Greek history. Another option is to join the hordes of city folk who flock to the nearby beaches, or hangout in the southern suburbs of Glyfada and Palio Faliro.

Lycavittos Hill Athens being hilly, there are several points from where you can enjoy su-perb views over the city. One is the Acropolis Hill and the other is Lycavit-tos Hill, a sharply-rising limestone rock reaching 277 metres above sea-level. The birds-eye-view from the top is amazing and encompasses Mount Parnitha in the north, the Acropolis Hill that crowns the city centre, and open views to the south all the way to Piraeus and the Saronic Gulf. Perched at the top is the small white-washed church of Aghios Geor-gios, which is beautifully lit in the evening. There is also the open-air Lycavit-tos theatre nearby, which hosts various theatre per-formances and concerts during the summer, as well as classy and pricey

Orizontes café-restau-rant, where you can catch your breath and enjoy the view. The fastest and most hassle-free way to reach the top is to take the two-minute ride up the funicular. The start-ing point is the corner of Kleomenous and Ploutar-hou Streets in Kolonaki. If you are set on doing it on foot it is best to set out from Loukianou Street, but bear in mind that there are no signs to point you to the top.

Faliro and GlyfadaStarting from Palio Faliro and ending beyond Sounion, the southern Athenian seaside is a sight to see in its own right. Either you want to go swimming, or shop-ping and want to avoid the city centre, Glyfada is good for both. The tram runs along two lines towards the south of the city, one ending in the Neo Faliro district (close to Piraeus port) and the other line ending at the quiet suburb of Voula (towards Sounio). In Palio Faliro, the Trocadero park (Tram station: Trocadero) has been spruced up in recent years and transformed into a meeting place for couples and youngsters who take their leisurely walks around the area. It houses a beautiful open-air cinema, landscaped areas for walking, some pricy cafés, a restaurant and a few shops selling sports apparel. If you prefer to head towards Glyfada, you can stop at Alimos Marina for a walk amongst the sleek sailing boats and a cup of frapuccino, or lunch at the spacious, open all-day venue Kitchen Bar (3 Posi-


donos, Kalamaki, 210 9812004). The marina is also home to the nicely-decked Skippers Café-Bar (Pier 1, 210 9880282) originally a hangout for windswept skippers. Tak-ing the tram once again, you find yourself at the go-kart track of Aghios Kosmas (Tram station: Aghios Kosmas) where you can test your driving skills. On the way you will see plenty of public, as well as private beaches where you can enter for a fee that is higher on the weekends. When the tram takes a sudden left turn you have reached Glyfada (Tram station: Platia Katraki), a somewhat Americanized neighbourhood where the first shopping centres and fast-food chains appeared in the 80s. Shopping is de rigueur here, with fashionistas visiting the boutiques daily and high-end brand stores spread around the main Angelou Metaxa, Lazaraki and Kyprou Streets. When you need to take a breather, pop into Vincenzo (1 Yan-nitsopoulou, Glyfada, tel: 210 8942310, 425), for the best Italian pasta in town. For more restau-rants and bars in the area, look at relevant Food and Bar sections.

Kaisariani monasteryInside the serene forests of Mount Imittos stands the medieval Kessariani Monastery, built in the 11th century CE. It was named after the Roman Emperor (kaisaras in Greek) Hadrian, who built an aqueduct to make use of a nearby fresh-water spring. The spring is still found in the courtyard of the monastery, and myth has

it that it has powers that bring fertility. The church type itself is domed cruciform, with its dome resting on four ancient marble columns of Ionic order. Thankfully its 16th-century frescoes still survive, and are repre-sentative of the Cretan school of painting. The painting of Madonna holding the baby Jesus contrasts beautifully with its black background, while Christ’s depiction on the dome is consid-ered to be one of the best of its kind. Surround-ing the monastery are secondary buildings, such as the residential quarters of the monks, an old bath-house and the kitch-ens. Southwest of the monastery lie the remains of another church dating from the 10th century. The view from the hill is stunning. To get there, take buses 223 or 224 from Akadimias Street. There is a two-kilometre walk from the foot of the hill up to the monastery.

Athens First Cemetery It may sound like the last place you would like to visit in any city, but Athens’ First Cemetery, founded around 1837, reveals part of the cuty’s history. Serving as the burial ground for promi-nent Greeks and philhel-lenes, this garden-like cemetery is a peaceful place filled with pine and olive trees, with well-tended marble graves scattered among them. Strolling among its lanes you will come across some lavishly-decorated tombstones, revealing the excellent quality of Greek 19th-century sculp-ture, influenced by the Romantics, as well as the social status of the people

34 The GreatOutdoors

buried beneath them. Many of these monu-ments are the works of well-known sculptors, the most prominent being The Sleeping Maiden, made by Tinian artist Yannoulis Halepas in 1878 for the grave of Sophia Afentaki. The girl’s calm expression and relaxed pose give the im-pression that she is sleep-ing. Further along is a haunting memorial of the 100,000 Greeks who died of hunger during WWII. The grave of actress-turned-politician Melina Mercouri is near the entrance, while zigzag-ging among the lanes will lead you past the graves of German archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann, Nobel laureate George Seferis, Oscar-winning actress Katina Paxinou, as well as Prime Ministers and heroes of the Greek War of Independence. The Cemetery is open all day and admission is free. In Greek: Proto Nekrota-fio Athinon, Anapafseos & Trivonianou, Mets, Tel: +30 210 9221621

A walk around Kastella, PiraeusPiraeus is the biggest port in Greece and is widely known as the gateway to the islands. Much of its old character has disappeared as a result of unchecked development – just like Athens. One of its few neighbourhoods that retain a unique style is Kastella, perched on a hill overlooking Mik-rolimano. The bus 040 from Syntagma will drop you at Piraeus’s Munici-pal Theatre (Thimotiko Theatro). From there take the trolley 20 towards Neo Faliro. To start your

walk, get off at Naftikos Omilos or Skalakia station. The winding Papanastasiou road is dotted with neo-classical listed mansions which escaped the bulldozers. Epidavrou and Pafsilipou streets which begin below Papanastasiou road will lead you towards the sea-side Akti Mikrolimanou, filled with cafés and fish taverns. Piraeus’s Yacht-ing Club (Istioploikos) at one end of Mikrolimano offers coffee and lunch, as well as great views of Kastella and its buildings. The best way to enjoy a pleasant stroll around Kastella is to go dur-ing the day, before the crowds swarm the seaside and local bars pump up the music volume. If you’re contemplating a quiet lunch, find the colourful To Limanaki (4 Navarhou Botsi, Kastel-la), a small mezedopolio offering raki (thus called rakomeladiko) - the Cre-tan tsipouro.

Swimming and socializing – Faliro, Alimos, Glyfada, SounioFew capitals can boast about their beaches. The prefecture of Attica is blessed with an endless coastline, filled with beaches and small coves waiting to be discovered. Plan a day at the beach, taking only the basics (hat, towel and plenty of sunscreen), but remember that beaches are packed on the weekends, so it’s preferable to go during the weekdays. Certain beaches in Alimos, Glyfada, Voula and Varkiza are run by the

Athens First Cemetery

Flisvos Marina

Sounio, Temple of Poseidon


country’s National Tour-ist Organization (EOT) and others by private individuals charging an admission fee. Organised beaches offer umbrellas, lounge chairs, changing cabins and self-service restaurants. If you want to avoid paying the some times hefty entry ticket (18 euros in Vouliag-meni), or you can con-tinue further down the road and choose a beach open to all. If you get off at Edem tram station, you’ll find yourself in the free, long beach of Palio Faliro. Continuing with the tram, you reach Alimos (station: Loutra Alimou) and its two beaches: The left one is free, while the right one, named Blue, has an entrance fee and a café right on the sand. Agios Kosmas is also one of the few remaining beaches where access is free. Gathering young and old alike, it has a lifeguard, free umbrel-las and showers. To get there, take the tram towards Voula and get off at Agios Kosmas station. Continuing further, the tram reaches Glyfada (station: Paralia Glyfadas). The beach is a three minute walk from the main road and is also free. Further south, the Lake of Vouliagmeni is an unbeatable experience, as the dark blue waters pouring from some underground source is supposed to have healing properties. Continuing south, you reach Varkiza town, where locals crowd the pebbled beach and a flat cemented platform, ideally formed for dives. From there onwards, there’s a series of small coves and beaches to choose from. As most of these beaches bear no signs, the best way to see them is to pull over

at the side of the road and decide from above if it’s worth it. Reach-ing Sounio you’ll find Legrena beach with its clear blue waters and the added advantage of Po-seidon’s Temple in view. Bear in mind that nudism is not allowed anywhere as these beaches are usu-ally packed with families. However, some beaches are often adjacent to smaller and more private ones and if you are there on a weekday and choose a discreet location you could get away with bearing skin. The easiest way to continue beyond Voula (the tram ends there), is to get a taxi or take the E22 bus towards Saronida.

Sounio and the Temple of PoseidonThe beautiful temple dedicated to sea-god Poseidon is a popular attraction for locals and tourists alike, not just for the well-preserved ancient monument, but also for the clear blue beaches surrounding it and the picture-perfect sunset. The route leading to Sounio is a sight in its own merit as you drive next to beautiful beaches and coves, small towns and cafés. The temple crowns a 60-metre-high rock and was built in the 5th century BCE, during Pericles’s “Golden Age”. The hill itself won its place in history when, according to mythology, king Aegeas jumped to his death from the cliffs believing his son Theseas had died in Crete trying to kill the Minotaur. The temple is made of marble and originally had 34 Doric-style columns, though today only 15 survive. The ideal time

Kaisariani Monastery

Kastella

Lycabetus

36 The Good Life

to visit is in the even-ing, when most tourists groups have left and the light is softer. Watching the sunset from the cliff and the blue sea under-neath is an unforgettable experience. To get there: Take the tram from Syn-tagma towards Voula, from where it is best to hire a taxi. You can com-bine Sounio with a swim at nearby Legrena beach and a bite at one of the local fish tavernas.

Off the beaten track: A walk in TatoiTatoi, north of AthensAbout 15 kilometres north of Athens lays the

beautiful forest of Tatoi, a widely unexplored area of Attica. The area housed the summer palace and estate of the former king of Greece Constantine, who was abdicated when mon-archy was abolished by plebiscite on December 1974. After a legal set-tlement with the Greek state, the estate became public property and opened up for visitors. Walking within the forest you are stunned by the lush vegetation, the small rivers and the 10-meter waterfall, which offers an unparallel sense of se-renity and gives you the impression you are miles away from civilisation. The water from the river ends up in the flume of Helidonous, creating

beautiful scenery. Apart from nature, one can visit the summer residence of the former royal family, the stables, stalls and other build-ings. The abandonment is evident everywhere, as the place had been closed up for 36 years, but the scenery is unrivalled. The government has said it plans to turn the former royal residence into a museum in the future, but no specific plans have been presented yet. To get there, you need to rent a car, or hire a taxi. Initially you reach north-ern Varibobi suburb and then head towards Kat-simidi. About 5 kilome-tres after the area Thea you reach the estate’s main gate. Park the car and continue by foot.

SwimminG POOLSIf you can’t be bothered to take the bus to the beach, you can always cool yourself In a pool. some central hotels offer deals that Include the use of the pool, a lounge chaIr, drInks at the bar and even a room, at a sometImes hefty prIce.

01 HiLTOn 46, vasilisis sofias,

tel: +30 210 7281000 / metro: evangelismosfor 25 euros from monday-friday and 40 euros on the weekends and holidays you may use the pool, loungers and will also be provided with towels.

02 SAinT GeOrGe LyCAbeTTuS

2 kletomenous, kolonaki, tel: +30 210 7416000 / metro: evangelismosIt houses a colonial-style pool which will set you back 35 euros; towel, loungers, umbrella and refreshment included.

03 ATHenS imPeriAL HOTeL

1 achileos & megalou alexandrou street, karaiskaki square, tel: +30 210 5201600 / metro: metaksourgiooffers its pool for about 25 euros (price to be finalized in may) including a towel and loungers.

04 FreSH HOTeL 26 sofokleous,

tel: +30 210 5248511 /metro: omoniaIts pool is quite small, but is available daily from 0900 to 1900, for about 20 euros (price to be finalized in may), plus towel, lounger and a coffee or soda drink.

05 LedrA mArriOTT 115 leoforos sygrou

tel: +30 210 9300000 /metro: sygrou-fixthe hotel allows use of the pool only if you book a room for a half-day (from 1000 to 1800). the bill for use of a room, single or double climbs to 96 euros.

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Athens guide for visitors

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