D&M is Australia's own truly natural, professional skincare brand featuring an extensive facial range, a body and spa collection and offering exclusive custom designed skincare products.
What price are you willing to pay for skin care products? This is a question I have been asking people I meet to gain insight into their understanding of the pricing concept of skin care and if they know what they are get- ting for their money. Many are willing to opt for the cheaper supermarket varieties of prod- ucts available while others be- lieve they are purchasing a better quality product when they pay quite a substantial amount, regardless of where they pur- chase it. In the recent past it was easy to ascertain the quality of a skin care product simply by where you could obtain it, i.e. at a supermarket, chemist/ department store or beauty salon. The rule of thumb was that cheaper products available from supermarkets were less active than those available from a chemist/department store while the products with the greatest activity were only avail- able through professional outlets such as Beauty salons, day spas, etc. Those days and the rule of thumb are passing expediently as more and more companies opt to have their products stocked in as many types of retail outlets as possible in an attempt to obtain greater sales quantities and, as such, financial gain. By stocking their products in various types of outlets the products become more visible to a greater range of potential consumers and in- crease sales as a direct result. Greater sales equates to lower cost as purchasing greater bulk quantities of ingredients results in the power to negotiate a bet- ter price from suppliers. In a fair world this should mean a re- duced price for consumers but in reality it just means greater prof- its for the company. It also can no longer be stated that the more you pay for a prod- uct gives you an indication of the quality as many companies now price their products in accor- dance to this concept and create the status they want to achieve for their brand and/or product. A particular company may manu- facture the same product with maybe a very slight variation (if any) that in no way alters the viability of the product, retail it under a different brand name they have registered under the company umbrella and alter the retail price which can vary con- siderably depending on the qual- ity they have manufactured through marketing for each par- ticular brand they own. So, some- one can be paying $X for the product under one brand name while another may be paying two, three, four times that amount because it is packaged under a different brand. Let’s face it any company, regard- less of what they sell, is about generating income for the com- pany and its owners, after all that is what business is all about. If consumers start demanding change in those products then the company must alter and deliver goods according to their [consumers] wishes or lose in- come. Market trends have a huge impact on skin care and with more and more people becoming consciously aware of environ- mental issues they are also be- coming more engaged in the desire for natural products. This trend has seen the increase in products that tout the inclusion of extracts etc within their formu- lations but buyers beware! - just because marketing is geared to- wards the natural element in- cluded does not mean it is a natu- ral product; the addition of a natural ingredient or two in a formula does not mean that there is an exclusion of chemical con- coctions as well. Many of the chemicals included in skin care products have dire consequences to the health of those that apply them. In recent times the health issues surrounding many of the chemicals included in skin care and cosmetic products has come to light but companies are still choosing to use them in their formulas. This begs the question “Why?’. The answer is simple, it is cheaper to not have to re- formulate or change what you already have. What this means to consumers is that there may be more than a financial cost to pay! In conclusion; where you pur- chase or the price you pay at the register is not necessarily indica- tive of the quality of a product. Consumers need to become more enlightened about ingredients and marketing tactics used to generate interest and learn how to read ingredient lists as well as they have learned/are learning to read nutritional panels of food to ensure that what they are purchas- ing is a healthier choice otherwise they may be paying with their health as well as their hard earned money! The price you pay… The Natural Guru 2011 Special points of interest: Price is not indicative of quality. A promoted natural ingredient doesn’t make the product All Natural. Chemical concoctions in skin care can cause health issues. Inside this issue: Beauty Tips 2 Make up—Foundation Part 2 3 Ingredients to avoid Part 2 4 Aromatherapy Part 2 5 D&M 6 V OLUME 1, ISSUE 2 A UTUMN E DITION 2011 Beauty Exposé
Transcript
What price are you willing to pay for skin care products? This is a question I have been asking people I meet to gain insight into their understanding of the pricing concept of skin care and if they know what they are get-ting for their money. Many are willing to opt for the cheaper supermarket varieties of prod-ucts available while others be-lieve they are purchasing a better quality product when they pay quite a substantial amount, regardless of where they pur-chase it. In the recent past it was easy to ascertain the quality of a skin care product simply by where you could obtain it, i.e. at a supermarket, chemist/department store or beauty salon. The rule of thumb was that cheaper products available from supermarkets were less active than those available from a chemist/department store while the products with the greatest activity were only avail-able through professional outlets such as Beauty salons, day spas, etc. Those days and the rule of thumb are passing expediently as more and more companies opt to have their products stocked in as many types of retail outlets as possible in an attempt to obtain greater sales quantities and, as such, financial gain. By stocking their products in various types of outlets the products become more visible to a greater range of potential consumers and in-crease sales as a direct result. Greater sales equates to lower cost as purchasing greater bulk quantities of ingredients results in the power to negotiate a bet-
ter price from suppliers. In a fair world this should mean a re-duced price for consumers but in reality it just means greater prof-its for the company. It also can no longer be stated that the more you pay for a prod-uct gives you an indication of the quality as many companies now price their products in accor-dance to this concept and create the status they want to achieve for their brand and/or product. A particular company may manu-facture the same product with maybe a very slight variation (if any) that in no way alters the viability of the product, retail it under a different brand name they have registered under the company umbrella and alter the retail price which can vary con-siderably depending on the qual-ity they have manufactured through marketing for each par-ticular brand they own. So, some-one can be paying $X for the product under one brand name while another may be paying two, three, four times that amount because it is packaged under a different brand. Let’s face it any company, regard-less of what they sell, is about generating income for the com-pany and its owners, after all that is what business is all about. If consumers start demanding change in those products then the company must alter and deliver goods according to their [consumers] wishes or lose in-come. Market trends have a huge impact on skin care and with more and more people becoming consciously aware of environ-mental issues they are also be-coming more engaged in the
desire for natural products. This trend has seen the increase in products that tout the inclusion of extracts etc within their formu-lations but buyers beware! - just because marketing is geared to-wards the natural element in-cluded does not mean it is a natu-ral product; the addition of a natural ingredient or two in a formula does not mean that there is an exclusion of chemical con-coctions as well. Many of the chemicals included in skin care products have dire consequences to the health of those that apply them. In recent times the health issues surrounding many of the chemicals included in skin care and cosmetic products has come to light but companies are still choosing to use them in their formulas. This begs the question “Why?’. The answer is simple, it is cheaper to not have to re-formulate or change what you already have. What this means to consumers is that there may be more than a financial cost to pay! In conclusion; where you pur-chase or the price you pay at the register is not necessarily indica-tive of the quality of a product. Consumers need to become more enlightened about ingredients and marketing tactics used to generate interest and learn how to read ingredient lists as well as they have learned/are learning to read nutritional panels of food to ensure that what they are purchas-ing is a healthier choice otherwise they may be paying with their health as well as their hard earned money!
The price you pay… The Natural Guru 2011
Special points of interest:
Price is not indicative of quality.
A promoted natural ingredient
doesn’t make the product All
Natural.
Chemical concoctions in skin care
can cause health issues.
Inside this issue:
Beauty Tips 2
Make up—Foundation Part 2
3
Ingredients to avoid Part 2
4
Aromatherapy Part 2
5
D&M 6
VOLUME 1 , ISSUE 2
AUTUMN EDITION 2011
Beauty Exposé
Page 2 Volume 1, issue 2
If botox and cosmetic surgery aren't your style then perhaps these DIY anti-ageing regime guidelines will be just what you need. A fusion of simple yet effective tips and lifestyle choices will make a difference not only in how you look but
also in how you feel!
Energy and nutrient intake- Make sure your diet is high in wholegrains, fresh fruit, vegeta-bles and oily fish and keep your calorie, saturated fat, salt and sugar intake down. Incorporate foods that:
are good sources of Vitamin E
and antioxidants
help to lower cholesterol
strengthen your immune and
digestive systems
rid the body of toxin build up.
Some top anti-ageing foods are: berries (mainly blueberries and blackberries), avocado, Crucifer-ous vegetables (cabbage, broc-coli, cauliflower, Brussel sprouts, watercress), watermelon, ginger, garlic and nuts (walnuts and brazil).
Avoid caffeine, cigarettes, alcohol and other drugs – These stimulants and toxins will age you very quickly! A high intake of caffeine, alcohol and nicotine inhibits the absorption of calcium, dehydrates the body (and the skin which is the first sign of pre-mature ageing) puts pressure on your liver and kid-neys, damages vital organs and contributes to and causes high blood pressure and cancer. Nothing beneficial there so if you must indulge then make sure your intake is kept in modera-tion!
Water water water- it's an obvi-ous one and one that we hear about all the time. If your body is constantly dehydrated then so is your skin and internal dehydra-tion leads to premature ageing of the skin. Water makes up 70% off our bodies so it is crucial for optimum functioning. Don't just drink when you're thirsty- aim for 1.5 – 2 litres of water daily and more according to how much you exercise.
Regular Detox- our bodies are constantly exposed to and are absorbing pollutants, stress, bad eating and sleeping habits, poor posture and lack of exercise. Over time the combined effect of this mental and physical toxicity can lead to different ailments
and health issues from head-aches to heart disease. Detoxing the body on a regular basis can greatly assist the removal of harmful toxins and allow your body and mind to function at optimum levels. There are so many detox programs to choose from and it is usually best that you choose one that fits with your lifestyle and doesn't inter-fere with your health conditions.
Supplement if necessary – if your food intake doesn't provide your body with what it needs, supplements can provide the body with the nutrients it is lack-ing. Some of the most recom-mended anti-aging supplements are:
Green Tea Extract – one of the
most powerful and naturally occurring anti-oxidants
Vitamin E – powerful antioxi-
dant
CoQ10- for energy production
and antioxidant protection
Omega 3 Fatty Acids- cannot
be made by the body and are essential for brain, heart and circulatory health
Grapeseed extract – powerful
antioxidant that protects living tissue and aids circulation
Protect your skin from the sun- Sun damage is the number one contributing factor into premature ageing as it leads to photo-aging- a process that produces deep wrinkles, leathery textured skin and age spots. Wear sunscreen daily even when the sun is not out!
Drink Green Tea – cutting back on the caffeine and replacing it with Green Tea will provide you with multiple anti-ageing and health benefits. It's already been mentioned that Green Tea is a powerful anti-oxidant but it has also be shown to protect against cancer, build resistance to heart disease and dementia and con-tribute to the body’s ability to burn fat.
Anti- ageing skin care – Select anti-ageing skincare that is good for your skin. Look for natural and organic products that are formulated with powerful natu-rally occurring anti-ageing ingre-dients. Moisturizing is most im-portant as it will provide the skin with essential hydration, nourish-ment and protection from further free radical damage. Exfoliate twice a week for optimum cell regeneration, youthful skin ap-pearance and to allow maximum absorption of your moisturizer and other product applications.
Exercise more – Exercise should be a core part of any an anti-ageing regime. The benefits of exercising are too numerous to list but as an overall picture you will have more energy, in-creased muscle mass and bone strength, reduced stress levels and it will help to prevent high blood pressure. As far anti-ageing skin benefits go- blood flow to your skin is increased which increases the delivery of nutrients and oxygen to your skin cells making for a healthy and youthful skin.
Get adequate beauty sleep – When you sleep your body re-leases growth hormone which stimulates cell turnover so get-ting enough sleep is one of the most important factors not only for a healthy well balanced life but also for it's strong anti-ageing effects on the inner and outer body. Continual lack of sleep will most certainly age you at a very fast rate.
Stress relieving activities – Stress has become part of al-most everyone's daily life with social and economic pressures all around us. Stress hormones are very damaging as they sup-press the immune system and accelerate the ageing process. While it is almost impossible to remove stress from your life entirely it is possible to perform activities that are stress reliev-ing. Whether it be meditation, yoga, pilates, massage, sweat-ing it out in the sauna or at the gym, walking, a bath, reading, a facial or just getting some fresh air everyone should incorporate some enjoyable stress relieving activities into their lives.
Simple remedies to
maintain a youthful
appearance.
Beauty Tips.
DIY Anti-ageing Regime - Sacred Sage 2011
Page 3 Beauty Exposé
Foundation is like the mix-ture for a delicious cake- get it wrong and the whole thing is a flop! It all starts with the selection of ingredients and then continues with the blending process. Pick the correct foundation for your skin and you are on your way to a flawless finish! 1. Picking the correct foun-dation for your skin type: There are many different foun-dation formulations to choose from which can sometimes cause confusion and result in the incorrect choice for your skin type.
Tinted moisturizer – A very light coverage as it is moistur-izer combined with a hint of colour to even out skin tone and give the skin a dewy ap-pearance. Suitable for Normal or Normal to Dry skins and for those who want minimal cover-age.
Liquid Foundation - Usually a medium coverage though smudge proof formulations can provide a full coverage. Easy to
apply and coverage can be dictated by the amount of foun-dation you use. Oily skins should select a thicker or smudge proof formulation and dry skins should select a thin-ner consistency. Some compa-nies will indicate the skin type most suited to the product on the box or bottle.
Mousse/Whipped Foundation – Available in containers, bot-tles and spray aerosol type cans. Provides a light to me-dium coverage depending on how much product you apply. Suitable for Normal, Dry and Ageing skins as the smooth airy texture doesn't cling to lines and dry areas of skin.
Cream to Powder Founda-tions – Provides a full cover-age in one step (no need for powder application) Goes on like a liquid and dries like a powder for long wearing and durable coverage. Comes in a variety of compacts and tubes and is most suitable for combi-nation skins and those wanting a full coverage that is long lasting.
Make yourself over Part 2 – Foundation - Sacred Sage 2011
allow them to settle for a min-ute and then stand back from the mirror. Take a good look for the foundation that has 'disappeared' into your skin. This will be the correct founda-tion shade for your skin as it has blended in so well that you can barely see it. Tips: Artificial lighting can be very deceiving and different to that of natural day light, so if you are unsure as to which colour has blended in the best take another look in a mirror outside. 3. Applying your founda-tion:
Now that you have the perfect foundation for your skin type and tone applying it should be the easy part:
Apply your moisturizer (and sunscreen) and if possible wait 10 minutes before applying your foundation.
Apply an even layer of founda-tion and blend well into your skin by using the most suitable application method:
Fingers – a quick and easy application that allows you to be in control.
Sponge - great for an even application but can absorb a lot of your foundation causing wastage and can sometimes leave sponge marks on your skin.
Foundation Brush – gives you an even and professional appli-cation and doesn't absorb the foundation but can leave brush marks.
Finish with the application of translucent powder
Note: Concealer can be ap-plied before and/or after foun-dation.
2. Choosing the correct shade for your skin tone: Ensure you pick the foundation shade that best suits your natu-ral skin tone by doing a founda-tion test. It is best to do this in store or at a cosmetic counter. All you need is a few minutes, a mirror, some natural or fluo-rescent lighting and your skin to be free from foundation and powder: Choose 3 or 4 foundations that appear to look closest to your natural skin tone. Do this by looking at the bottle (if clear) or testing them on your hand. Go for yellow based tones to give warmth or if you have fair skin select pink (cool) based tones. Apply a stroke of each founda-tion in vertical lines from your mid cheek to your upper neck and leave at least a 1 cm gap between each line. Make sure you only use a small amount of foundation for each line so it can be slightly absorbed into your skin. Applying a thick layer will not give you a correct result. Once you have applied the 3-4 different foundations in lines
Colour Selection & Application...
Foundation Sticks – Very similar to a cream to powder foundation and provides a medium to full coverage. Suit-able for most skin types though dry skins may find some formu-lations cling to dry areas.
Mineral Make-up – A very popular choice these days as we have become more aware of the toxic ingredients used in cosmetics. Coverage is de-pendent upon how many layers you choose to apply so can provide a light, medium or full coverage. Suitable for all skin types especially Sensitive skins and those with allergies. Oily skins may find that some min-eral make up will not give them the lasting power they desire. Be aware that a lot of commer-cial cosmetic companies 'claim' to have a mineral make-up but a lot of the time it is just a mar-keting campaign. For a true mineral make-up- find a brand or company that specializes in mineral make-up, natural or organic cosmetics.
Tips: Look for words and phrases on the foundation packaging to help select the right one for your skin. If your skin is oily look for “oil free”, “oil control” or “long wearing”. If your skin is dry look for “moisture rich” or “hydrating” and if you have combination skin then decide whether your skin is more oily or more dry and choose your foundation according to that.
Tips: Try using a foundation brush to apply your foundation and then use a sponge to blot over any brush marks. You can also use your fingers to blend crevice areas like the nose.
Always check the hairline, neck, nose and eye areas and blend blend blend!
Page 4 Volume 1, issue 2
In the last issue of Beauty Exposé we looked at; Mineral oil; Propylene Glycol; Parabens. If you would like to read up on these go to our website ar-chives for the pdf of issue 1. We are now going to take a look at a few more ingredients used quite commonly in cosmetic products but which can prove detrimental to your skin, health or both. Triethanolamine (TEA) TEA is used in cos-metics as an emulsi-fier, Ph adjuster and preservative. It is se-verely irritating to the skin and considered a possible carcinogenic (as may be contami-nated with nitrosa-mines). Can cause allergic reactions, eye irritations and it has a very drying effect on the skin, so can cause flakiness. SLES & SLS (Sodium laureth sul-phate and Sodium lauryl sulphate) These are used to create the foam in body washes and shampoos. They can cause irritation to the eye, skin rashes, scurf on the scalp (similar to dandruff),
skin allergies and have the potential to be a carcinogen. AHA'S Citric, Glycolic, Lactic and Malic acids, used to remove the outer layer of the skin. Used as a means of diminishing fine line and wrinkles and of-ten included in cos-metics designed for daily use. Used as a facial treatment once to twice yearly may prove somewhat beneficial but when used on a daily basis can prove to be detri-mental to the skin by causing freckling, sun spots and even lead-ing to skin cancers as the skin is more sen-sitive to the UV rays because it no longer has the outer shell of the skin for protec-tion. It can also lead to increased sensitiv-ity of the skin and may result in red-ness, soreness and skin irritation. The very reason it is used, anti-ageing by reduc-tion of lines and wrin-kles, can be exacer-bated with long term continuous use even in small doses. Imadazolidinyl urea Is one of the most commonly used pre-servatives (even in baby products), next to parabens. It is
used to render cos-metic preparations free of microbial ac-tivity. This preserva-tive can also find its way into the blood stream and vital or-gans of the body were its carcinogenic properties may take hold. It can also cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Ethanol This alcohol can cause severe skin irritation for people with already sensitive skin. Its very nature enables it to dehy-drate the skin and cause the appear-ance of fine lines and wrinkles. Over pro-longed contact with the skin, as in daily use via a cosmetic preparation contain-ing this ingredient, the skin can develop sensitivity and be-come irritated and red.
Become enlightened! For more information on cosmetic ingredi-ents used in your skin care go to; www.cosmeticsdatabase.com
Knowing the prop-erties of essential oils is important so that better choices can be made and good results obtained. This knowledge can be obtained
by reading their properties in books, finding information online and talking with others who are ahead of you on this journey of discovery. Many essential oils have similar properties and may cause a little confusion initially as to which oil is the best but given time you will find it easier to make your choice as you become more familiar with the oils and the symptoms or conditions they treat.
If a diagnosis of a condition has been made by a qualified person then many books will list the oil/s for that specific condition and make choosing easier. If an actual diagnosis is not required or has not been done pres-ently, looking at the symptoms and matching those symptoms to the properties of the essential oils is the first step in determining your choice. It is a good idea to have a ref-erence guide on hand until you become really familiar with the oils, even then you will still find you have need for reference material. Always, always check the safety of the essential oils for the recipient by ensur-ing there are no conditions present in the person to which the essential oils are con-traindicated.
Even with reference material on hand you need to look at possible causes when treat-ing conditions as you don't want to exacer-bate a possible cause of the condition you are addressing. An example to explain this further would be;
If someone is anxious and/or stressed and suffering a headache as a result of this then it is not wise to use an oil that can be used to treat the headache if it is also a stimulat-ing oil as this will only exacerbate the anxi-ety and stress level. It would be wiser to use an oil that will calm the mind and body while addressing the headache.
The body itself can give direction on better choices as it will naturally be drawn to an oil by smelling it. This may sound a little absurd but the mind and body will distinguish prop-erties when inhaling the evaporating oil and prefer the oil/s which suit its need/s, evident by the person preferring the aroma of the oil/s which will give the best results for them. When a person rejects the 'smell' of an oil it is important to be able to choose another oil to replace it or, indeed, another oil that can be used with it to enhance its properties. In the case of adding another oil for enhance-ment the person then needs to be able to smell both oils together rather than as indi-vidual oils. Simply holding the oils under the
nose and moving them back and forth while inhaling will allow enough blending of the evaporating oils to achieve a re-sponse and determine suitability. It is important to note here that any oil disliked for its aroma today may find favour at a later date as it's suitability for a different issue can alter the perception of whether or not the aroma is found pleasant.
Not only can essential oils be used for the mind, body and spirit but they can also be used around the home to enhance clean-ing while still imparting their beautiful aromas into the rooms where they are used. Again, reading and learning the properties of the essential oils will aid your choice of oil for each job at hand. Some oils are antiseptic and so can be used when washing down benches or floors or even cleaning the bathroom and toilet, others, like eucalyptus, can help remove sticky or oily residue, etc.
However you choose to use oils at home the beginning to making the correct choice for the 'job' at hand means a jour-ney into the properties of the oils first so that correct and better choices can be made. It is not all about the aroma!
Blending oils
There are specific oils that are known to work well with each other as they can create a 'synergistic blend' if used to-gether. What this means is that when two or more oils are blended together they can create a more potent oil to treat a specific issue, referred to as a synergistic blend (when the sum of the whole is greater than its parts). So, if an oil is known to 'work well with' another oil with the same properties desired for the issue being addressed blending them together can create a better result. It is not wise to think that you can find and use half a dozen oils with the property you desire and that are classified as 'working well' with each to create a super powered blend. Too many oils with the same prop-erty in a single blend can create problems and may even negate the power; i.e. have a negative effect and make a less potent blend. The rule of thumb to employ here is “3 or 4 but never more”, meaning using no more than 3-4 oils with the same prop-erty to treat a single specific issue.
It is possible to blend several oils together that will treat different symptoms, e.g. a headache, tiredness and slight nausea. Some oils will treat some of the conditions and then others can be added to treat the rest or create a synergy to treat one or more of the symptoms (Peppermint will aid the headache, tiredness and nausea, Ginger will help with tiredness and nau-sea and Rosemary can help with head-aches and tiredness), creating different synergies within one blend.
When blending oils for use in a burner to
create an atmosphere rather than treat-ing a specific ailment/condition then you have to consider the notes of the oils so that the blend will have balance. Each oil evaporates at a given rate and ac-cording to this rate of evaporation the oil is considered a top note (quickest to evaporate), a middle note (evaporates less quickly and offers body to a blend) or a base note (slowest to evaporate and helps lock all notes together). A good blend will contain all of these notes. It is a bit like writing a story; top notes are the introduction and give an indication of what is to come, middle notes are the body of the story, intro-ducing and developing characters, emotions and intrigue and the base notes are the ending bringing the story to a gratifying close.
When blending oils to burn to create an atmosphere choose oils from each note with the properties to achieve a suitable feeling for the occasion (an example; Sweet Orange (top note) lifts the mind and spirits, Geranium (middle note) is known to encourage communication between strangers, an excellent choice for any occasion where everyone does not know each other and Sandalwood (base note) is relaxing).
Base notes are the least quantity in the blend, Top notes next and the body of the blend will be the greatest in quan-tity. (There is always some controversy with regards to quantities but we are not trying to make a perfect perfume here just put together a good workable blend of essential oils – creating our own story.)
It is always advisable to create a blend like this a few days in advance so that the aromas can have time to perfectly blend together. If you smell a blend straight after making it the aroma will be different than if it is left for a couple of days. A blend needs time to mature. Making it in advance also gives you the chance to add another oil/s to the blend to improve the aroma (if desired). It is always wise to keep a note of es-sential oils used and in what quantity should you desire to re-create the blend at a later date.
In our next edition of Beauty Exposé we will look at essential oil dilution ratios.
Aromatherapy— using essential oils around the home. Part 2 - The Natural Guru 2011
