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Chapter 18

Braiding and Braid Extensions

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“Minds are like parachutes. They only function when open.”

– Thomas Dewar

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Client Consultation

Focus on client expectations.

Build trust and confidence.

Follow standard consultation guidelines.

Conduct in quiet spot.

Be warm, be friendly, and listen.

Complete client record card.

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Natural Hairstyling

Natural hairstyling originated in Africa.

Some procedures take many hours to complete and last from six weeks to three months.

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Natural or Virgin Hair

No chemicals or dyes

Natural or coil pattern of hair not alerted

Never exposed to thermal styling tools, according to some

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Natural Hairstyling

Braiding and extensions

Twisting: overlapping two strands to form a candy-cane effect

Weaving: intertwining a weft of faux hair with natural hair

Wrapping

Dreadlocks

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Hair Analysis

TextureDiameter of hair; feel; wave pattern

Density

Hair condition

Length

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Tools for Braiding

Boar-bristle brush

Square paddle brush

Vent brush

Wide-tooth comb

Tail comb

Double-tooth comb

Finishing comb

Cutting comb

Pick with rounded teeth

Blow-dryer with pick nozzle

Diffuser

5-inch scissors

Long clips

Butterfly and small clips

Hood dryer

Small rubber bands or string

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Tools for Braiding (continued)

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Implements and Materials

Extension fibers

Hackle

Drawing board

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Fibers

Human hair: most imported from Asia

Kanekalon: excellent quality

Nylon or rayon: less expensive; may cut or break natural hair

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Yarn: made of cotton or nylon blend

Lin: wool fiber from Africa

Yak: from Tibetan or Asian ox

Fibers (continued)

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Wet or Dry Hair

Dry is best for braiding.

Allow for shrinkage when braiding wet.

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Straight Hair

Braid dry.

Let hair fall without tension.

Shampoo first.

Towel-blot without rubbing.

Apply leave-in conditioner.

Detangle from ends to scalp.

Blow-dry hair.

Use pomade, gel, or lotion to hold.

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Blow-Drying Benefits

Dries hair quickly

Softens hair

Loosens and elongates wave pattern

Aids manipulation process

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Tree Braids

Hair is braided with an extension.

Finished look shows mostly faux hair.

Process takes about four hours.

Two methodsTying Individual strands in place about an inch from scalp area

Adding long pieces of hair to cornrows

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Dreadlocks

Separate networks of curly, textured hair that have been intertwined and meshed together

Performed without chemicals in several slow phases

Process can take from six to twelve months

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Ways to Cultivate Locks

Double twisting

Wrapping with cord

Coiling

Palm rolling

Braiding

Not combing or brushing

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Three Lock Methods

Comb technique

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Palm roll

Braids or extensions

Three Lock Methods (continued)

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Developmental Phases of Locks

Phase 1: Hair is soft and coiled in spirals.

Phase 2: Hair begins to interlace and mesh.

Phase 3: A bulb can be felt at end of lock.

Phase 4: Hair begins to regain length.

Phase 5: Locks are closed at ends, are dense and dull, and do not reflect light.

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Summary and Review

What is the most effective way to prepare hair for braiding?

What are the steps in creating basic corn rows?