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1Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & Trading Issue 11 January 2004
IN THIS ISSUE :
Li & Fung Research Centre
13/F, LiFung Centre
2 On Ping Street
Shatin, Hong Kong
Tel: (852) 2635 5563
Fax: (852) 2635 1598
E-mail: [email protected]
New Rules of the
Game - China’s Textile
and Apparel Industry in
International Trade
On 18 November 2003, the US Department of commerce
announced that the US would resume the quota system on
three types of textile imports from China, namely, knit fabrics,
bras, and dressing gowns and robes. Donald Evans, the US
Secretary of Commerce holds that ‘the America carries out fair
competition’ and that the ‘lack of reciprocity’ is the root cause
of friction in the Sino-US trade relation. However, the Chinese
Ministry of Commerce insists that the US decision does not
conform to CITA’s (the US Committee for the Implementation
of Textile Agreement) procedure on special safeguards against
Chinese textiles and apparel, and the pledges contained in
the Working Group1’s report on China’s WTO accession.
Such trade dispute between China and the US is no surprise,
even after China has become a WTO member and is,
supposedly, under a much more liberalized trade regime than
before...
I. Introduction
China’s exports of textiles and apparel have been restricted by
other countries in the form of quotas under various bilateral
and multilateral agreements since 1957. The Agreement on
Textile and Clothing (ATC) provides for the termination of quotas
among the World Trade Organization (WTO) member countries.
It is an agreement to phase out the Multi-Fibre Arrangement
(MFA) and remove all quotas by 1 January 2005.
As the demand for Chinese manufactured textiles and apparel
have already exceeded the supply of quotas available, and as
prices of China’s exports are extraordinary competitive, it is
I. Introduction 1
II. The international trade regime 2for the textile and apparel industry
III. New Trade Barriers in the 4‘Free Trade’ Era
IV. Overview of trade barriers 7facing China
V. Why so many safeguards measures 8are initiated against China?
VI. Impacts of the protective trade 9barriers on China
VII. Circumvention - A counter-measure 11of the Anti-Dumping charges
VIII. How can China respond to the 11new trade protectionism:Effective counter-measuresat the government level
IX. How can China respond to the 15new trade protectionism:Effective counter-measuresat the enterprise level
1 For reference, the Special Textile Safeguard is stated in paragraph 241 and 242 of
the Working Group report.
2Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
almost certain that China’s export of textiles and apparel
to other countries, especially to the US, will explode in
2005. Many firms, China local, Hong Kong, Taiwanese,
Korean, etc. have already been building up production
capacity in China in anticipation of 2005. Buyers will place
orders in 2004 to be shipped quota-free in January 2005.
The upturn in quantities from January 2005 should be
seen as immediate.
However, although China is now a WTO member and
that the ATC applies, China is under a set of rules different
from all other countries. The Accession Agreement
signed by China in December 2001 explicit ly
acknowledges the possibility of safeguard actions and
other protective trade barriers after 31 December 2004
against China as a new member of the WTO. Moreover,
it is expected that other implicit protective trade measures
may also be used against Chinese exports. How China
should respond to the new international trade
environment becomes a key issue that China has to
address.
The first part of the essay presents an overview of the
international trade regime for the textile and apparel
industry, in particular, the new protective trade barriers
facing China in the post-WTO era. It then assesses the
impact of the new trade barriers, especially those
imposed by the US, on the economy and the textile and
apparel industry in China. The third part gives a number
of suggestions as to how the Chinese government and
the private sector could respond to trade protectionism,
and work together to strengthen China’s position in the
international trade arena.
II. The international traderegime for the textile and
apparel industry
1. The Multi-Fibre Arrangement
(MFA) Period (1974-1994)
Since 1974 world trade in textiles and garments has been
governed by the rules of the Multi-Fibre Arrangement
(MFA). During the MFA period (1974-1994), textile quotas
were negotiated bilaterally. This provided for the
application of selective quantitative restrictions on the
exports of most textile products to certain importing
countries, most notably, the US, EU and Canada.
These trade measures were viewed as necessary and
reasonable by the developed countries because the
labour-intensive nature of the textile and apparel
industries meant that the products of developing
countries would be highly competitive and would present
a major disruption to their domestic industries which are
much less competitive. The MFA was brought in as a
supposedly short-term measure, to give the developed
countries a breathing-space to allow their own industries
to restructure. The MFA did not apply to trade among
rich industrialized countries. For example, export of
apparel from Italy to the US would not be restricted.
The MFA greatly hindered the expansion of textile and
apparel exports of developing countries. It is estimated
that some developing countries have lost millions of
dollars of foreign exchange due to trade restrictions.
However, the MFA still could not reverse the trend
towards the relocation of textiles and apparel production
to developing countries. Nowadays, Asian countries are
the world’s biggest exporters of textile and apparel
products.
The MFA was a major departure from the basic GATT
rules and particularly the principle of non-discrimination
(or ‘Most Favoured Nation’ principle). On 1 January 1995
it was replaced by the WTO Agreement on Textiles and
Clothing which sets out a transitional process for the
ultimate removal of these quotas over a 10 year period.
2. The Agreement on Textiles and
Clothing (ATC) Period (1995-2004)
At the General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT)
Uruguay Round it was agreed that international textiles
and clothing trade should be integrated fully into GATT
rules, or the new WTO rules. The new WTO rules were
designed to encourage the expansion of international
trade through progressive removal of quotas and tariffs.
3Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
The protectionist policies under the MFA could not be
sustained within this framework. The Agreement on
Textiles and Clothing (ATC) was thus signed and entered
into force in January 1995 to replace the MFA.
According to the ATC, the quota restriction in international
textile and apparel trade is to be terminated over a 10-
year transitional period and the tariffs on such products
are also to be progressively reduced. The ATC applies
to all WTO members whether or not they are signatories
to the MFA. The phasing out of quota restriction is to be
achieved through two mechanisms: 1) product
integration, meaning the removal of textile and apparel
products from the product coverage of quotas, and; 2)
acceleration of growth rates of quotas still in effect during
the transition period. The mechanisms would be
implemented in four stages, from 1995 onward. The
below exhibit details the four stages:
Exhibit 1: Stages of Product Integration and Accelerated Growth of Annual Quotas under the ATC
Minimum percentage of textile
and apparel imports to be integratedMinimum percentage increase to be
(based on the respective 1990applied to annual quota growth rate
Stage Implementation Date import volume) Major suppliers Small suppliers*
1 1 January 1995 16% 16% 25%
2 1 January 1998 17% 25% 27%
3 1 January 2002 18% 27% 27%
4 1 January 2005 Full integration of the textile and apparel sector into GATT/new WTO rules
Note: * Those countries that supplied less than 1.2% of an importing country’s total quotas in 1991.
Source: Compiled from the Agreement on Textiles and Clothing, Internet address http://www.wto.org/.
To protect importing countries from being flooded by
cheap imports, the ATC includes a special transitional
safeguard provision, which could be applied to products
not yet been integrated into the GATT and which are not
already under quota. An importing country is allowed to
impose new quotas against individual exporting countries
provided that it can prove that imports of the specific
products are causing or threatening to cause serious
damage to its local industries. However, this special
safeguard mechanism will be replaced by the WTO
general safeguard rules that are non-discriminatory in
nature in 2005.
Besides, the ATC includes provisions to cope with
possible circumvention of commitments through illegal
transshipment, re-routing, false declaration concerning
country or place of origin and falsification of official
documents. The agreement also includes commitments
of increasing market access by WTO members.
However, the integration process within the ATC has
been far from satisfactory. The ATC requires the
integration of a designated percentage of all imports,
not a percentage of the previously restricted imports.
This allows the importing countries to “integrate” products
that were not restricted in the first place, as was the case
in the first stage of integration when most importing
countries included many products that were already
unrestricted. Also, although the integration list must
encompass products from each of the four groupings:
tops and yarns, fabrics, made-up textile products and
clothing, the ATC did not stipulate the proportions in which
the four product groups are to be integrated. Thus, the
ATC allows the importers to liberalize largely in the lower
value-added sectors, and to maintain discrimination
against higher value-added imports and protect their own
value-added apparel industries. It is generally believed
that the most sensitive quota products, such as T-shirts,
men’s shirts, ladies’ blouses, jeans, etc. will only be
integrated on the last day of the ATC.
4Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
3. China’s WTO Accession
China became a member of the WTO on 11 December
2001, which has far-reaching implications for her textile
and apparel industry. First, all restrictions regarding the
international trade of China’s textile and apparel products
are integrated into the ATC framework. Second, China’s
trade disputes with other WTO members will have to be
negotiated under a third party multilateral Dispute
Settlement Body, which ensures that China enjoys non-
discriminatory access to foreign markets on predictable
terms. It provides, through consultations and dispute
settlement, a coherent system based on rules, norms
and procedures rather than on the unilateral exercise of
economic leverage.
As parts of its WTO entry package, China has agreed to
significantly liberalize the market access of foreign
products, adopting measure such as lowering import tariff
rates, eliminating other trade barriers like import licensing
and quotas. Besides, China has committed to phase out
her import tariffs on textile and apparel products.
Uncertainty remains as other WTO members are allowed
to invoke special safeguards or other protective trade
measures against China’s imports under China’s Protocol
of Accession, which contains concessions made by
China to obtain her WTO membership status. In other
words, on top of the ATC framework, some forms of trade
barriers can be imposed on China’s textile and apparel
exports. Two major anti-surge mechanisms, namely, the
“Special Textile Safeguard” and the “Product Specific
Safeguard” will be discussed later.
III. New Trade Barriers in the‘Free Trade’ Era
1. Anti-surge mechanisms - China’s
concession in her WTO entry
To secure the bilateral agreement with the US, some
anti-surge mechanisms to restrict China-origin imports
in the form of “Special Textile Safeguard” and “Product
Specific Safeguard” were put in place. Given that all WTO
members enjoy the Most Favoured Nation treatment, the
anti-surge safeguards are not confined to the Sino-US
trade but are also applicable to trade between China
and all other WTO members.
i. Special Textile Safeguard
Under this provision, China allows, until the end of 2008,
the WTO members to restrain imports of textiles and
apparels from China due to “market disruption,
threatening to impede the orderly development of trade
in these products”. The safeguard provision covers all
textile and apparel products under the ATC. As soon as
a request for consultation of such safeguard is launched
by an importing country with WTO membership, China
has to limit its exports to that country at a specific level,
so that shipments from China shall not rise by more than
7.5% (6% for wool products) “in the first 12 months of
the most recent 14 months preceding the month in which
the request for consultation was made.” The restriction
shall be removed by the end of the year or after a 12-
month period if the request for consultation has been
made known less than three months before the end of
the year.
ii. Product Specific Safeguard
This safeguard lasts for 12 years from China’s WTO
accession in 2001, allowing other WTO members to
address to the rapid increase of the imports of specific
products from China in a targeted fashion if they consider
those imported products have disrupted or will disrupt
their market. In additional, a third country with WTO
membership can also initiate this safeguard measure
against China if it believes that China’s exports has
displaced or threaten to displace its market share in an
importing country.
This safeguard measure applies up to 3 years to any
product from China, including textiles and apparels. The
restrictions could be of any kind, such as tariffs and
quotas.
5Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
2. Other new Trade Barriers
In response to the restrictions of imposing tariff, quota
and license requirements as agreed in the international
trade agreements, countries can resort to other more
implicit trade protective measures to improve their trade
balance and to protect their domestics industries from
China. Major protective trade measures are listed below.
i. Anti-Dumping (AD)
If a company exports a product at a price lower than the
price it normally charges in its own market (which is called
the ‘normal value’), it is said to be “dumping” the products.
Many countries take action against dumping in order to
defend their domestic industries.
The “Anti-Dumping Agreement” of WTO disciplines
countries’ Anti-Dumping actions. According to the
agreement, governments can act against foreign
dumping where there is significant (“material”) injury to
the domestic industries. In order to do so the government
has to be able to show that dumping is taking place,
calculate the extent of dumping (how much lower the
export price is compared to the exporter’s home market
price), and show that the dumping is causing or
threatening to cause injury. The agreement provides
three methods to calculate a product’s “normal value”.
The main one is based on the price in the exporter’s
domestic market. When this cannot be used, two
alternatives are available - a calculation based on a
combination of the exporter’s production costs, other
expenses and normal profit margins, or, in case a country
is deemed not to be a ‘market economy’, the price
charged by the exporter in another surrogate country
may be used.
A detailed investigation has first to be conducted
according to specified rules before any measure is taken.
The investigation must evaluate all relevant economic
factors that have a bearing on the state of the industry in
question. If the investigation shows that dumping is taking
place and that the domestic industry is being hurt, the
exporting company can undertake to raise its price to an
agreed level in order to avoid Anti-Dumping duties.
Otherwise, Anti-Dumping measures will be taken, which
is normally in the form of charging extra import duties on
a particular product from the particular exporting country
to bring its price closer to the “normal value” and to
remove the injury to the domestic industry in the importing
country. The Anti-Dumping investigation will end
immediately in cases where the authorities determine
that the dumping margins are insignificantly small or that
the volume of dumped imports is negligible.
Anti-Dumping measures must expire five years after the
date of imposition, unless an investigation shows that
ending the measure would lead to injury to the importing
countries. The agreement also says member countries
must inform the Committee on Anti-Dumping Practices
about all preliminary and final Anti-Dumping actions,
promptly and in detail. They must also report on all
investigations twice a year. When disputes arise,
members are encouraged to consult each other. They
can also use the WTO dispute settlement procedures.
ii. Countervailing Duties (CVD)
Countervailing Duties are offsetting duties similar to Anti-
Dumping duties, except that these duties seek to
counteract subsidies conferred by foreign producers or
exporters by way of illegal bounties or grants which can
come in any number of forms, such as preferential
financing or tax credits.
The WTO Agreement on Subsidies and Countervailing
Measure disciplines the use of subsidies, and it regulates
the actions countries can take to counteract the effect of
subsidies. A country can use the WTO dispute settlement
procedures to seek the withdrawal of the subsidies or
the removal of its adverse effects. The country could
also launch its own investigation and ultimately charge
extra dues (known as “countervailing duty”) on subsidized
imports that are found to be hurting domestic producers.
The agreement only applies to specific subsidies, which
refers to subsidies available only to an enterprise, an
industry, a group of enterprises, or a group of industries
in the country that gives the subsidy. The agreement
defines two categories of subsidies: prohibited and
actionable.
6Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
Prohibited Subsidies:
Subsidies that require the recipients to meet certain
export targets, or to use domestic goods instead of
imported goods. They are prohibited because they are
specifically designed to distort international trade, and
are therefore likely to hurt other countries’ trade. They
can be challenged in the WTO dispute settlement
procedures. If the dispute settlement procedure confirms
that the subsidy is prohibited, it must be withdrawn
immediately. Otherwise, the complaining country can
take counter measures. If domestic producers are hurt
by imports of subsidized products, countervailing duty
can be imposed.
Actionable Subsidies:
In this category, the complaining country has to show
that the subsidy has an adverse effect on its interest.
Otherwise the subsidy is permitted. The agreement
defines three types of damage they can cause. One
country’s subsidies can hurt a domestic industry in an
importing country. They can hurt rival exporters from
another country when the two compete in third market.
And domestic subsidies in one country can hurt exporters
trying to compete in the subsidizing country’s domestic
market. If the Dispute Settlement Body rules that the
subsidy does have an adverse effect, the subsidy must
be withdrawn or its adverse effect must be removed.
Again, if domestic producers are hurt by imports of
subsidized products, countervailing duty can be imposed.
Subsidies may play an important role in developing
countries and in the transformation of centrally-planned
economies to market economies. Least-developed
countries and developing countries with less than
USD1,000 per capital GNP are exempted from
disciplines on prohibited export subsidies. Other
developing countries are given until 2003 to get rid of
their export subsidies. Least-developed countries must
eliminate import-substitution subsidies by 2003 - for other
developing countries the deadline was 2000. Developing
countries also receive preferential treatment if their
exports are subject to countervailing duty investigations.
For transition economies, prohibited subsidies had to be
phased out by 2002.
iii. Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT)
Under the WTO regime, the use of Technical Barriers to
Trade (TBT) is regulated by the TBT Agreement. The
prime objective of this agreement is to ensure that “no
country should be prevented from taking measures
necessary to ensure the quality of its exports, or for the
protection of human, animal, and plant life or health, of
the environment, or for the prevention of deceptive
practices, at the levels it considers appropriate”. On the
other hand, it also seeks to ensure that technical
negotiations and standards, as well as testing and
certification procedures, do not create unnecessary
obstacles to trade.
The TBT Agreement takes into account the existence of
legitimate divergences of taste, income, geographical
and other factors between countries. For these reasons,
the agreement accords to members a high degree of
flexibility in the preparation, adoption and application of
their national technical regulations However, members’
regulatory flexibility is limited by the requirement that
technical regulations “are not prepared, adopted and
applied with a view to, or with the effect of, creating
necessary obstacles to trade”.
The agreement encourages countries to use international
standards where these are appropriate, but it does not
require them to change their levels of protection as a
result of standardization. For many years, technical
experts have worked towards the international
harmonization of standards. An important role in these
efforts is played by the International Standardization
Organization (ISO), the International Electrotechnical
C o m m i s s i o n ( I E C ) a n d t h e I n t e r n a t i o n a l
Telecommunication Union (ITU).
Today, environmental protection has received
unprecedented attention and the Green Trade Barrier
(GBT) is commonly adopted in international trade,
especially in trading textile and apparel products.
Developed countries have already drawn up laws to
ensure the environment is protected in the production of
textile and apparel products. Any imported textiles and
apparels must now pass a strict examination. For
7Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
In the future, it is expected that more countries, not only
the developed countries but also the developing countries
such as India and Argentina, will initiate Anti-Dumping
cases against China. The products and dollar amounts
involved in the Anti-Dumping cases also show an
increasing trend. In the eighties, the dollar amount of
most Anti-Dumping cases were around hundred
thousands US dollars. However, in the nineties, cases
of millions US dollars were very common.
China has been losing a lot of business opportunities
because of the Technical Barriers to Trade. A survey
conducted by the Ministry of Commerce shows that the
exports of six major Chinese industries (agricultural
products, light industry, electromechanical, textile and
wear, mineral and metals and chemical, and medial and
health) were subject to technical barriers, suffering a loss
of US$9.5 billion, US$4.1 billion, US$1.7 billion, US$1
billion, US$700 million and US$300 million respectively.
The Technical Barriers to Trade is likely to exert a more
serious effect on the exports of labour-intensive products
where China is very competitive.
2 On January 1st 2002, the State Council promulgated the PRC Anti-Dumping Regulations and the PRC Safeguard Measures Regulations, which replaced the 1997 ones.
This was then followed by the promulgated of a series of procedural rules by the ministries involved (SETC and MOFTEC).
Exhibit 2: Anti Dumping (AD) Initiation and Measures against China, 1995-2002
AD Initiation AD Measures Taken
Reporting members to China to the world to China to the world
India 62 331 44 219
United States 42 292 32 192
European Community 40 267 24 164
Argentina 39 180 29 120
South Africa 15 160 13 107
Australia 14 155 3 40
Turkey 13 45 11 33
Others 83 730 56 383
Total 308 2160 212 1258
Source: World Trade Organization
example, some developed countries have drawn up laws
requiring imported textile and apparel products to pass
the ISO14000 - an environmental protection standard.
IV. Overview of trade barriers
facing China
Statistics indicate that China has been saddled with the
largest number of anti-dumping charges. Since the
1990s, every one-in-six anti-dumping and safeguard-
measure cases have involved Chinese products.
By the end of October 2002, 544 cases of anti-dumping
and safeguard-measure investigations in 33 countries
and regions have involved China, with commodities worth
US$16 billion at stake, according to official statistics. For
its imports, China has only initiated 21 anti-dumping
investigations against foreign exporters since 1997, when
China enacted her Anti-Dumping and Anti-Subsidy Law2.
The exhibit below shows that China accounted for one-
sixth of the total Anti-Dumping Measures from 1995 to
2002. The Anti-Dumping lawsuits were mainly brought
by India, the United States, the European Community
and Argentina, which accounted for 20%, 13.6%, 13%,
and 12.6% of the total initiated cases respectively.
8Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
With regard to the Green Trade Barrier, the environmental
standards of more than 70% of China’s products are
lower than those of the European Union (EU). The
Chinese government and enterprises have not placed
great emphasis to environment-related matters or the
rising environmental standards of imports. In such
conditions, many Chinese exports are refused due to
their low environmental qualification.
According to the Ministry of Foreign Trade and Economic
Cooperation (MOFTEC, now part of the Ministry of
Commerce), some new standards set by a number of
WTO members, developed countries in particular, are
increasingly limiting China’s expansion of exports. The
new standards these countries resort to include technical
standards, inspection and quarantine measures,
requirements for intellectual property protection, customs
requirements, environment protection as well as labour
standards.
V. Why so many safeguards
measures are initiated
against China?
1. Non-Market Economy (NME)
designation
Since China is not regarded as a market economy
country, a third country “analogue” market economy has
to be selected to establish the ‘normal values’ when
calculating the Anti-Dumping margin and assessing the
export subsidies of China. Such an approach of
determining dumping and subsidization will apply for 15
years from the date of China’s WTO accession, unless
China can show evidence that the market economy
conditions prevail in a particular industry or sector.
The non-market economy approach in determining
dumping and subsidization puts China in an unfavourable
situation and is easily abused by other countries. For
example, European Court (EC) has selected Mexico as
one of the third countries to determine Chinese products’
normal values.
.
2. World’s manufacturing powerhouse
and major exporting and importing
country
Despite a stagnant world economy, China’s total value
of import and export reached USD620.8 billion in 2002,
much better than most countries. The export value in
2002 grew by 22.3% to reach USD325.6 billion, and the
import value was USD295.2 billion, up by 21.2%.
Besides, China has enormous manufacturing capability
in low and middle-end goods. Given the abundant pool
of low-wage workers, China enjoys great comparative
advantage in producing such products. Both the price
and quality of the China’s exports are highly competitive
in the wor ld market . Fac ing the increas ing
competitiveness of Chinese products, to protect their
domestic industries and improve their trade balance,
many foreign countries are inclined to impose protective
trade barriers on Chinese products.
3. The fading out of traditional
protective trade measures
The idealistic notion of globalization and free trade is
increasingly being challenged by the worldwide economic
stagnation. Since the imposition of traditional protective
trade barriers such as tariffs, quotas and licenses are
restricted by the WTO agreement, many countries have
to resort to others trade measures like Anti-Dumping,
Countervailing Duties, Technical Barrier of Trade, etc. to
protect their domestic industries from the influx of
Chinese products.
4. Unsound legal footing
China was first charged with Anti-Dumping in 1979.
However, not until 1997 did the Chinese government
issue its first Anti-Dumping and Anti-Subsidy Law, which
enabled the MOFTEC to conduct Anti-Dumping
investigations against foreign exporters. Also, in light of
her WTO entry, China is obliged to bring its domestic
legislations and trade practices in line with the WTO
standards. Thus, there is an urgent need for China to
further develop and improve her legal system.
10Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
2. More and more trade measures
against China are expected
(i) Initiation of trade measures against China by other
countries due to trade diversion
The US trade measures restricts the surge in exports of
textile and apparel products from China. China may then
have to turn to other markets to absorb its production
capacity. However, the influx of imports from China will
in turn pose considerable pressure on other countries’
local manufacturers. China will also run into head-on
competitions with those countries which have been
exporting to the same markets. The chain reaction will
go on and new rounds of trade protective measures
against China are thus highly likely. If China fails to handle
the situation properly, the worst scenario is that China’s
textile and apparel products will be forced to exit most of
their foreign markets.
(ii) Comparative advantage on textile and apparel
industry
It is expected that the prices of China’s exports of textile
and apparel will be further lowered with the phasing out
of quotas in 2004. Given that China will continue to be
treated as a non-market economy when determining if
she is ‘dumping’ her products, the lower prices and thus
higher ‘dumping margins’ will surely invite more countries
to initiate antidumping measures against China.
3. Investment Incentives in China
harmed
China is fast becoming the global manufacturing
powerhouse. To enjoy the low manufacturing costs, many
foreign investors have invested in China’s manufacturing
industry and then export the products to other countries.
Given that products manufactured in China may at any
time be arbitrarily restricted or even banned from entering
the foreign markets, foreign investment incentives in
China will be greatly harmed. This is particularly true
since China is perceived to be particularly vulnerable to
foreign trade charges and actions. For example, the
safeguards provision leaves open the possibility that
there will still be quotas on some Chinese textile and
apparel products in the post-2004 era. The US political
situation adds to the uncertainties of the Sino-US trade
relations, which further discourages the US firms from
relocating production to China.
4. Unfavourable trade position of
China in the world market
Discriminative trade polices have been applied on China
even after her WTO entry. On 21st May 2003, the US
announced, and incorporated into its internal legal
system, a dispute settlement process for safeguard
charges against China. This dispute settlement process
in many ways exceeds China’s WTO commitments and
thus further pushes China to a more unfavourable trade
position. China’s exporters will then be even more
vulnerable to the abuse of trade measures by the US
enterprises.
First, the US has not clearly defined the term “market
disruption”, which leaves plenty of room for manipulation.
Final judgment could be made even without convincing
and objective supporting information.
Second, the dispute settlement process not only allow
those US manufacturers which are directly competing
with Chinese exporters, but also other US parties, such
as trade unions, labour unions and component
manufacturers, to initiate trade charges against China’s
exporters.
Third, according to China’s WTO commitments, the
Special Textile Safeguard can only last for one year.
However, under the new dispute settlement process, the
safeguards measures remain effective until an objection
is raised.
As for all other WTO members, they are also protected
by the safeguards agreement on China’s exports even if
they do not internalize the safeguards provisions into
their legal systems.
11Issue 11 January 2004
China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
VII. Circumvention - A counter-
measure of the Anti-
Dumping charges
‘Circumvention’ refers to the circumvention of Anti-
Dumping rules. The major ways that international
exporters have been using to avoid being accused of
Anti-Dumping or charged the Anti-Dumping duties are:
1. Assembling done in the importing
countries
Exporting only the components and parts of the final
products - The rationale is that components and finished
products are usually treated under different categories
according to the customs rules of many countries.
2. Assembling done in third-party
countries — Transshipment
The final stage of production is done in another country
- and thus the goods will be viewed as exports from that
country but not the country charged with Anti-Dumping.
3. Slightly changing the products
Changing only the appearance or form of the product
but not its functions, nor will it affect consumer’s
purchasing decisions - and then the product no longer
fits the descriptions of the goods which are to be charged
the Anti-Dumping duties.
4. Product development at a later
stage
Changing the functions of the product using new
techniques and technologies - This turns the product into
a new product which exists only after the investigation
process of the Anti-Dumping case.
As Circumvention has become prevalent in international
trade, a number of countries have established their ‘Anti-
Circumvent ion’ laws, among which the Ant i -
Circumvention laws by the US and the EU are the most
comprehensive and well-established. These laws render
the use of Circumvention ineffective and have great
impact on China’s trade and investment.
More effective, long-term counter-measures are
therefore being called for.
VIII. How can China respond to
the new trade
protectionism: Effective
counter-measures at the
government level
A. Internal Policies
1. The government has been
speeding up the enactment of laws
and regulations on fair trade for
imports and exports.
The government should encourage domestic enterprises
to follow the WTO rules when competing in the
international market, and penalize those who do not
conform to the WTO rules. In fact, there are still quite a
number of small export-oriented enterprises which resort
to below-cost price competition to gain market share.
These enterprises will only tarnish the image of the rest
of the Chinese enterprises in the international market.
2. The government should further
promote the marketization process
of the Chinese economy. Market
reform should be accelerated.
Besides, the government should guide and help the
Chinese enterprises to establish modern accounting
standards so that a complete and accurate set of cost
data could be provided when they are being investigated.
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China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
Otherwise, the calculation of ‘normal values’ will continue
to be based on the prices in other economies, which
may be unfair to China.
3. It is imperative for China to adopt
Anti-Dumping, Anti-Subsidy and
other safeguard measures in
accordance with WTO rules to
protect the legal rights and
interests of domestic industries.
In fact, in the wake of China’s WTO entry, the Chinese
government has set up a new organ named the Bureau
of Industrial Injury Investigation under the State Trade
and Economic Commission to tackle dumping and
subsidies of imported goods. The Bureau will conduct
investigations into whether imported foreign products are
being dumped on the Chinese market. The Ministry of
Foreign Trade and Economic Cooperation has also set
up another new organ called the Fair Trade Bureau for
Imports and Exports. The two organs work closely
together in handling anti-dumping applications and
investigations of imported goods, investigating
international trade barriers and coordinating responses
of domestic enterprises to foreign lawsuits.
B. China in the International Playing-
field
4. A monitoring and alarm system
should be set up to closely follow
the latest trends and situation in
the international market, so as to
facilitate the formulation of
strategic plans by both the
government and enterprises
against foreign trade measures.
With the monitoring and alarm system, timely
adjustments of the exporting strategies of Chinese
enterprises could be made if it is found that foreign
countries are going to initiate a charge against them.
For example, Chinese exporters may need to reduce
the export amounts on their own, or that the Chinese
government may need to regulate the export amounts
by taking immediate measures such as imposing,
internally, temporary export duties or quotas. If it is still
unable to avoid such a charge, responses to lawsuits
could also be prepared and coordinated promptly.
The government is also advised to maintain an updated
database, which contains all the important information
such as the export and import volume of different
countries, the world market demand and prices, as well
as foreign competitors’ latest moves. The database and
information should be open to all the relevant parties
and be easily accessible, which is an important factor to
make prompt and timely responses against foreign
charges.
Since the system enables the Chinese government and
the enterprises to closely follow the international demand
and market prices, it will help to detect those enterprises
which are selling below market prices, and thus avoid
unnecessary charges against Chinese enterprises.
Chinese enterprise could also make use of the system
to better position their products in the world market and
design their pricing strategies so as to minimize the risks
of being charged of anti-dumping.
5. China should enhance its
bargaining power and respond
strategically in international trade
negotiations. The Chinese
government should also continue
to fight for a fairer set of
international trade rules.
In the midst of trade conflicts, China should be careful in
balancing the interests of different parties. Forming
coalitions with developing countries is an effective way
to promote common interests and thus reduce the
tendency to impose protective trade measures against
one another. Common interests will be reinforced through
regional economic cooperation, joint development
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China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
programmes and foreign trade and direct investment,
etc. For example, China can dispel her image as a
competitor to other developing economies by buying
more raw materials and agricultural products from them.
For the developed markets she exports to, China could
narrow the trade gap in textiles and apparel through
importing high-tech equipments and high-grade materials
from her trading partners. A closer relationship with other
developing countries could also be established by
providing them with technological support and
preferential market entry. In addition, China should try
to reach agreements with other countries to ban the
abuse of protective trade measures.
Among all foreign countries, the US is most likely to
initiate protective trade measures against China because
it is the biggest importer of China’s textile and apparel
products. Since the US trade measures may lead to
substantial losses in China, China should try to enhance
her bargaining power in the negotiation with the US
through different means. First, to alleviate the public
pressure on the US government to impose trade
measures on China’s exports, China could increase her
cooperation with the US importers and retailers, as well
as promote the idea among the US general public that
Sino-US trade and investment are in fact mutually
beneficial. Second, China could hint that counter-
measures or retaliate actions might be taken against
unfair or invalid US charges. Third, the Chinese
government could commit to combat illegal trade and
smuggling activities with the US government, which will
help to protect the interests of the US enterprises.
A special committee could be formed to tackle the US
problems. The committee should be familiar with the US
market situations and keep track on its latest trends. It
should also be responsible for preparing a thorough plan
of responses or counter-measures against the US trade
charges.
In addition, China should respond strategically in both
multilateral and bilateral negotiations. First, China has
to take a firm stand on fighting against the abuse of
protective trade measures, refusing to accept any
arrangement exceeding her WTO commitments, and
safeguarding her rights in WTO negotiations. Second,
certain concessions and preferential treatment, such as
early market entry, could be granted to other parties
judgmentally to avoid hostilities.
The current WTO Dispute Settlement Process is tedious
and complicated. The investigation process might last
for two years. Even if China wins the lawsuit, export and
investment incentives will still be harmed greatly.
Therefore, on the one hand, the Chinese government
should continue to bargain for a fairer set of international
trade rules, as well as the amendments or abolishment
of the WTO rules which allow unfair trade barriers (for
example, the revision of the anti-surge mechanism). On
the other hand, the Chinese government should demand
a better and more transparent dispute settling
mechanisms.
C. In supporting the domestic
enterprises
6. The Chinese Government should
offer more guidance, services and
help to the domestic enterprises to
defend their rights and interests
when facing international trade
lawsuits.
Firstly, the government should encourage and support
the establ ishment of non-governmental trade
associations of the textile and apparel industry. The
government should also enhance its communication and
cooperation with enterprises, guilds and associations.
Information flow, as well as the mutually supportive
relationship among exporters in the industry will thus be
strengthened. Given these, a sound responding
mechanism will be much easier to establish. Responses
to foreign charges will be strengthened and better
coordinated.
Secondly, at present, high fees and the lack of
experienced staff and lawyers in international trade
disputes have made it difficult for victimized Chinese
enterprises to respond. In view of this, the government
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China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
has started paying close attention to the training of a
group of professionals who are adept at the WTO rules
and international trade laws. The government may also
set up a special fund to help those enterprises which
are unable to respond to the lawsuits due to financial
difficulties.
Finally, for discriminative trade policies imposed by
foreign countries, the government should engage in
negotiations with foreign governments on behalf of the
domestic enterprises
7. The Chinese government has been
guiding the domestic
manufacturers towards adjusting or
even restructuring their product
mix, and improving their product
quality.
It is hoped that the Chinese enterprises could produce
higher value-added products, and be more customer-
oriented. This will reduce the need to compete by low
prices, or to markdown the prices below cost just for
clearing unwanted stocks. For example, the Ministry of
Finance has identified ‘promoting technical and
technological advancement of enterprises’ as one of the
five major areas where the funds raised from treasury
bonds issuance are to be spent on.
For example, for the textile and apparel industry, the
government has started to support, encourage or even
subsidize the following areas: (a) R & D activities; (b)
Imports of advanced equipments and devices; (c) The
transformat ion of OEM (Or ig inal Equipment
Manufac tu r ing) in to ODM (Or ig ina l Des ign
Manufacturing) and branding; (d) Exploring new types
of polyester; (e) Upgrading the production equipments
and technologies in all stages of production such as
spinning, dyeing, etc.; (f) The building of IT systems to
operate and conduct business more efficiently, to collect
the latest market information, to predict the fashion
trends, and to get to know the newest production
technologies; (g) Promoting a better understanding of
how modern global supply chains work to minimize
unnecessary inventory and respond faster to market
trends. In fact, since 2002, the Chinese government has
included the textile and apparel industry in her IT
development pilot scheme, working to provide a breeding
ground for e-business.
When the right time comes, China could consider revising
the foreign exchange rate of the Renminbi. The least
efficient, marginal producers and exporters in the textile
and apparel market will then be forced to exit the industry,
and the restructuring process of the industry will be
accelerated. However, it should be noted that labour
productivity has to increase accordingly so as to keep
the unemployment rate from soaring.
The allocation system of export quotas should also be
reformed. Currently, most of the quotas go to the hands
of the State-owned enterprises, which do not really need
all of these quotas. An active black market for quotas is
thus created, which raises the cost of doing business for
privately-owned enterprises. It is advised by some
Mainland economists that the government should
allocate the export quotas to the enterprises which are
the most-efficiently run and which create the highest-
value added.
8. The government should encourage
the domestic textile and apparel
manufacturers to ‘go abroad’, as
well as nurture a competitive team
of Chinese textile and apparel
exporters.
First, mergers and acquisitions, as well as forming
coalition between well-performing Chinese textile and
apparel enterprises and foreign enterprises could be
advocated. Through international cooperation, Chinese
enterprises can learn from foreign enterprises’ strengths
in international network, management expertise,
corporate governance and supply chain management,
and thus improve their competitiveness and finally build
up their own brands in the world market. To achieve these
goals, the government could contribute by formulating
the right policies to facilitate capital market operations
and offshore financing.
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China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
Second, the Chinese government should support those
competitive textile and apparel manufacturers to go
abroad and establish operations in places like the Central
America, the Middle East, the Eastern Europe, Russia
and Africa. It is hoped that through market diversification,
Chinese enterprises can enlarge her world market share
and influence.
Third, the Chinese government should encourage the
domestic textile and apparel manufacturers to participate
in international trade exhibitions and fairs. These
enterprises will then be able to increase their knowledge
and understanding of foreign markets and foreign
products, build up relationship network with foreign
competitors, buyers and trade organizations, and
promote their products to the world market. The Chinese
government could also organize activities of similar
nature within China or in other countries so as to increase
local enterprises’ participation in the international market.
Lastly, the Chinese government could provide resources
to the training of a group of international business and
supply chain management experts.
IX. How can China respond to
the new trade
protectionism: Effective
counter-measures at the
enterprise level
1. Chinese enterprises should have a
complete understanding of the
rules of international trade and
international practices.
They should observe these rules and practices closely
and be self-disciplined when competing in the
international market. In order to do so, they need to train
their own staff or to employ consultants whose expertise
is in international trade rules.
2. Chinese enterprises should also
improve their sense of self-
protection by making use of the
WTO rules, and responding
actively to foreign charges and
lawsuits.
For unfair foreign requirements and standards, Chinese
enterprises should learn to fight back by using WTO rules
and regulations, and firmly stop illegal limitations imposed
by foreign countries. Chinese enterprises should have
sound preparations when dealing with these new
challenges. They may also need to employ experienced
local or foreign lawyers and consultants to defend the
cases for them.
In the past, many Chinese enterprises did not know how
to respond when facing international trade charges. Many
of them simply gave up the market rather than responding
firmly and resolutely. This could induce great losses for
these enterprises and even harm the whole domestic
industry. For example, any enterprise charged with anti-
dumping and do not respond will be classified as ‘guilty’
and included in the study group that eventually
determines the anti-dumping duty to be imposed on the
whole industry. Individual enterprises that do respond
and prove they are not dumping can be exempted from
the general anti-dumping duty imposed on the whole
industry.
Since China’s WTO entry, a small but growing number
of Chinese enterprises have learned to protect
themselves in compliance with the WTO rules, and to
take advantage of relevant WTO rules. They are also
fast gaining experience in participating in the acute
international competitions.
For example, in the 1980s, only 30 percent of the Chinese
enterprises responded to foreign suits against their
exports. Nowadays, 100 percent of the cases involving
the US and EU are responded to.
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China Distribution & TradingLi & Fung Research Centre
On the other hand, enterprises should try to develop
modern corporate governance and establish a well-
regulated accounting system, so that they will be in a
more favourable position when facing the lawsuits.
3. Chinese enterprises should pay
more attention to product quality,
after-sale services, brand-building,
environmental protection and
intellectual property protection.
Chinese enterprises should try to use new techniques
or technologies to increase their valued-added, upgrade
their products and improve their product structures. Only
then can they sharpen their competitive edge in the
international market and reduce the need to compete by
low prices.
Besides, through better differentiating their products from
those of their foreign competitors, Chinese enterprises
will have more autonomy in setting the product prices
and, at the same time, make it more difficult for foreign
countries to initiate anti-dumping charges against them.
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4. It is essential for Chinese
enterprises to produce according to
world market demand.
Chinese enterprises should keep an eye on the changing
demand in the international market at all times. Only then
can these enterprises make better production decisions.
This will help them to avoid producing goods which are
no longer demanded by consumers, and thus minimize
the likelihood of considerable markdowns. Chinese
enterprises should also better grasp market information
such as prices and factor costs. These will not only help
them to improve their profitability but also help them to
defend themselves in a timely way when facing foreign
charges.