Cibare Food Magazine Issue Five

Issue Five November 2015

www.cibare.co.uk

Cibare

REVIEW

HEALTH AND NUTRITION

Cibare Food Magazine www.cibare.co.uk2

ContentsThe Weight Loss Rush Before Christ-mas 12Bone Broth and Berries 18Tasty Raw Pies 24

FOOD FOR THE SEASON GARDENING

FEATURES

TRAVELLING TALES

SOURCES AND CREDITS

Not Such A Shaggy Dog Story 16Theo’s Pumpkin Pie 28Pie Mash and Liquor 36From Chianti to Aldi 58Sparkling Water 60

An Israeli Institution 64

December At The Allotment 34

BOOKS Superfood Snacks 53

The Fry Up Police 6Twinings Tea 8Curio Cibal 20

Breakfast Ideas 4 Chestnut Brownies 10Peek inside the Box 15Vegan Pumpkin Pie 32PIES 40Beef Stew 48Pork Noodle Soup 50Food and Inners Deconstructed 52

Editor’s Note

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Issue 5 is sponsored by the beautiful Cotton and Pearl, an online shop full of amazing home wear and kitchen goodies. From chopping boards to bread bags and their lovely plates and napkins, we had alot fun making this mag-azine with their stunning products.

This Issue of Cibare is full of heart warming food to fill you up over the winter months and keep your tummy happy and hopefully a bit healthier too. We hope that you enjoy reading it as much as we did making it.

Next issue we will be in print so get intouch for a lovely Cibare style advert. [email protected]

FOOD

BreakfastFrench Toast with added cinnamon

A mean fry up!Don’t forget to add the black pudding, beans, hash browns, fried bread and beans!If you want to know how to do it properly keep reading.

REVIEW

FRY UP POLICEwith The Editor

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Who on earth are the Fry Up Police? Well in fact they are a bunch of evil bastards that rip the shit out of your breakfast fry up pic-tures. If you are dumb enough to upload your photo to this group and take the pain of being a BeanC**t then you can take just about anything. This groups is one of the most offensive on Facebook if not the entire Internet and I’ll be honest it is the one I love the most. It is a no holes bared group where anything goes, well just about. Call my bean lake the worst name under the sun, but if you get stupid and say something about my mum, get racist, or say things that are just abusive to the human race then you my son are out! So really this group isn’t that bad. It’s just about having fun and taking the piss but its totally done in the spirit of good fun, and using the really good words that no one likes to say (smurks!) but just loves to type! Being the serious food lovers that they are at Cibare, I had to interview them. I sent them a loaf of questions and they answered whichever they wanted using any words they wanted too. Enjoy!

Who is the man behind the moon face?If we told you, we’d have to kill you or lock you in the bum dungeon for the rest of eter-nity.Cafés must either love you or hate you! Do you give a shit?No shits are given when reviewing cafes. If

a cafe serves up a rubbish fryup they need to know. We would also like them to take the constructive criticism on board and improve their offerings, of course if they remain bel-ligerent and give abuse back we enjoy that too.Where is your ultimate place to have a fry up?Off the back of a tory posing as a tableWhat is your perfect drink with your fry?Tea, coffee, beer, juice it all really depends on mood. What IS frowned upon is weak tea.Do you actually eat anything else?No, fryups cover so many food groups that it really is the only fully balanced meal you can eat.What is your ultimate meal besides a fry up?Another fryWhat is your every day breakfast? Or is that a secret?That is a closely guarded secret (it’s a fry)What does it take to make the ultimate fry up? Or are you not allowed to say.There are many hall of famers in the FUP, I would suggest a quick flick through those. Also a peek at the fryup ingredient Venn would put you on the track towards the ul-timate fry. Of course there are those that speculate that the ultimate fry doesn’t ex-ist because food critique is subjective, those people are wrong and will be banned.SIGNED: FUP MANAGEMENT.www.fryuppolice.com

REVIEW

Twinings Teawith The Editor


In all honesty I wasn’t going to write this ar-ticle about Twinings but when I was in need of a really strong cup of English Breakfast theirs seemed to be obvious choice for tea to buy. So on realising that I had bought some-thing without thinking about it I wanted to know why Twinings was so ingrained into my consciousness as well as my pocket. So I went on a hunt and ended up checking out their website and was given an unexpected history lesson.

When the world was obsessed with coffee one man at the age of 26 decided that the family business wasn’t for him, so he set his mind to learning the ways of the sea and worked for the famous East India Company. At the time they were importing all sorts of products from all over the world including, funnily enough, tea. After a few years Thom-as Twining had enough money of his own to start up his own tea importing company when he saw that some of the aristocracy had started had started drinking it at the height of what was now the fashion. It was so exclu-sive that ladies where not allowed to drink it and would have to do it in secret. When Thomas bought his first Coffee Shop in cen-tral London (after the fire of London) ladies would send in their footmen to buy them tea as it was so sort after. Even Queen Victoria had to sign a royal warrant so that Twinings

would be signed to her royal household for it to eventually be more widely available. But it took World War 2, for Twinings to produce tea for thousands of solders, the Red Cross and Womens Voluntary Services for women to be allowed to buy tea. TEA!!

All of this sounds completely insane to our standards today, but I honestly had no idea that my cup of tea had quite such a history and that it actually spanned 300 years just for this company to be in the business. Not only that, but that it was there at the start of our tea obsession and the family itself is still there giving us a lovely cuppa to this day.

Without thinking I have 6 boxes of Twinings tea in my cupboard, admittedly I have a cou-ple of other companies’ tea bags and loose tea in there too, but when in doubt, you can go ANYWHERE and buy Twinings tea. And they make pretty much every flavour of tea, be it herbal or fruity teas too, so it’s most definitely a brand that is integrated into our subconscious as well as our pallets.

But what was so good about my English Breakfast tea? It was fruitful as well as having a strong yet subtly dry aftertaste. I liked that it smelled and tasted fresh and little sweet before I added the milk, although I didn’t think I needed it. I do like a splash of milk

in some teas to make it that extra bit more comforting, but of course that is a personal preference. Some would say that is sacrilege but I don’t care. One of my favourite teas is Earl Grey and I have to be honest as terri-ble as I’m about to say is, I love the fact that Twinings makes a lovely de-caff version as I think it’s hard to get a decent tasting fruiting Earl Grey tea once its been tampered with.

(I know, but I can’t have too much caffeine in my day though, its bad for my jitters!)

The last 300 years of tea seems to stem from our beloved Twinings so don’t be afraid to pick up that old faithful brand that you know and love, it won’t let you down.

REVIEW

Chestnut Browniesby Emma Walton


In the UK chestnuts have become entwined with the changing of the seasons and the coming of the cooler months. Ast the end of September arrives so do these sweet nuts. That being said a lot of people only associate them with Christmas. Hopefully this reci-pe will help to convince you that chestnuts should and can be enjoyed from the begin-ning of autumn right through the winter months. Anyone who has sat and roasted their own chestnuts, peeling away the tough outer-shells for the soft sweet nut below, knows that although it is a labour of love it is well worth it at the end. Luckily, most supermar-kets now sell vacum packed chestnuts and tins of chestnut puree. I know, I know, they are not as good as the fresh nuts plucked straight from the tree and by all means feel free to forage your own chestnuts and whip up your own chestnut puree before you em-bark on this recipe. But, I’m a realist and I don’t have the time, so tinned chestnut pu-ree it is.There are loads of things you can make with chestnut puree - chestnut and mushroom terrine, chestnut soup, chestnut stuffing, but my favourite way to use chestnut puree is in these Festive Chestnut Brownies. For me the key to a good brownie is some-thing dense and fudgy, made with good quality dark chocolate which is just sweet

enough and complimented by one other flavour which shares the limelight with the rich bitter chocolate. In this recipe that’s the chestnuts. If you can’t resist the urge to pimp out these brownies than I suggest adding chopped cherries or pecans to the batter, or why not top them with a drizzle of dark chocolate. I like to nuke them in the microwave before eating and serve with a spoon of vanilla ice cream and some chopped chestnuts!

Chestnut BrowniesIngredients

175g unsalted butter200g good quality dark chocolate150g light brown sugar415g chestnut puree (1 tin)3 eggs75g plain flour

Method

Pre-heat your oven to 180C and line a 9 inch rectangle baking tin with grease proof pa-per.Place a couple of inches of water into a sauce pan and bring to the boil. Turn off the heat and place a bowl over the hot water.Break the chocolate into cubes and add to

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the bowl, melt gently with the butter (also cut into cubes), stirring frequently.Once the butter an dchocolate have melted together, slowly stir in the sugar. You will be left with a glossy chocolate mixture.Pour this into a large mixing bowl and beat in the chestnut puree until smooth.Leave the chestnut and chocolate mixture for a few moments until cool anl and beat in the eggs.Sift the flour into the batter mixture and fold gently until combined.Pour the brownie mix into the lined tin. Bake in the centre of the oven for 15 minutes until the brownie mixture is set and a crisp top ahs formed with distinctive brownie cracks.Allow the brownies to cool in the tin before, cut into squares then carefully remove from the tin, peeling away the grease proof paper.Dust with a little icing sugar before serving.


The Weight Loss Rush Before Christmasby Anne Iarchy


The weather has turned cold, the days are much shorter and comfort eating is at its high to compensate for the chill and dark-ness.

However at this time of the year, many women start stressing about their weight to fit into a little black or red dress for all their Christmas parties.Men, on the other hand, are looking at their tuxedo and wondering why they can’t close the jacket anymore.

If you belong to a gym and you’re a regu-lar, you’ll notice that the gym is busier than normal – a bit like just before the summer holidays, but still not as busy as the January rush.

So how come most of us always leave it to the last minute?

You might not like the answer, but it’s only because your reason for wanting to lose the weight is seasonal, or event-focused.

Have you really stopped and asked your-self deep down why you wanted to lose that weight? How being lighter, slimmer and healthier would affect your life, confidence, happiness, family life, job etc?

No, we generally have a superficial reason why we want to lose the weight and around Christmas time, it’s all about that dress or the tux.

So let’s just focus on that right now. What can one do to fit into that dress, or be able to close the suit jacket?

Like with any weight loss journey, it comes down to planning, preparation, execution and consistency.

Planning your meals and exercise sessions

The day before you go food shopping, plan your meals for the week, or until your next food shop. Check your diary. Find out which meals you’ll be eating at home, which meals you’ll be eating at work and which meals you’ll be eating out. Make a list of meals you would like to eat and prepare your shopping list.

It’s wintertime, so soups and stews are great options to warm you up. They can be full of vegetables, meat and healthy ingredients. Even a shepherd’s pie or fish pie can be made super healthy by swapping a few in-gredients.


In the summer it might be easy to get up a little earlier and go to the gym. But if you’re anything like me and struggle to get up early, especially in the winter, then planning your exercise sessions during the day or straight after work is crucial. Book a class, put your workouts in your diary, or schedule a ses-sion with a personal trainer. Whatever you need to do to make it happen.

Prepare your meals and prepare for exercise

Once you have the list of meals, as well as the ingredients, it’s all about preparation.

If you enjoy cooking every day, then go for it.

If you don’t, then think of batch cooking and freezing, so that you always have a healthy home cooked meal available for those days where you really can’t be arsed to cook.Those stews, pies and soups are great for that.

Maybe it’s time to invest in a slow cooker? I’ve found that using one means I don’t lose any nutrients from my food, as it all stays in the pot and the food is flavorsome. It’s a great way to mix meat and vegetables, and get a great meal. If you put a timer on, your meal will be ready just in time for when you come home in the evening. Super easy!

Are you going out for a meal? Then do check out the menu upfront. Make your choice ahead of time. When going out for a meal, we generally get there hungry and quite of-ten end up making bad choices, but if you make up your mind ahead of time, chances are you will make a better choice.

Don’t forget to prepare your exercise kit. Whatever exercise you do, if it’s your gym kit, swimming kit or anything else you need for your session, take it with you, have it in the car or leave it at work.

Without planning and preparation, you can’t execute!

If you haven’t planned properly, you can’t prepare properly and if you are not prepared you can’t execute. Failing to plan leads to planning to fail.

Consistency is key

Once you’re executing, the next step is con-sistency. It’s not enough to do it for one week, or stopping and starting. If you con-sistently plan and prepare, you will execute more regularly. Put your goal somewhere very visible - perhaps a note on your front door asking if you have taken your food and kit with you?

Maybe rope a friend in to join your journey but remember to take it one day at a time. Don’t look forward and see the long road ahead, just focus on today and do what you have to do today. In the evening, reflect on the day and give yourself a pat on the back for the good work you’ve done and repeat everything all over again tomorrow.

When healthy eating and exercise is repeat-ed regularly and consistently, results will show in time for that little black or red dress, or your tuxedo jacket.

PEEK INSIDE THE BOX


FEATURE

Not Such A Shaggy Dog Story!by Roz Lishak

The one conversation which is just like a Santa Claus coloured red rag to a bull in my canine crazy world is the one the starts with “Well, my dog eats everything and anything”.

I almost always reply with gasps of utter amazement at such an impressive and tal-ented hound, who has the capabilities not only to open the fridge or cupboard door himself, but who can handle a can opener too..... but seriously pet owners, please take note, as ultimately the care and provision of our pets’ nutritional needs lies solely with us humans, and we need to arm ourselves with enough culinary awareness to ensure that feeding a dog any human food from your plate is a safe and positive process.

In my world of cooking, baking and re-searching strictly canine cooking, I am discovering that there are many harmful mouthfuls of hidden human ingredients that, once discovered, can be the answers to many four-legged medical mysteries!

If you are including your dog on the suspect list as you ask “Who ate all the pies” this fes-tive season, then you may well be barking up the wrong Christmas tree, so listen careful-ly, as I shall say this only once, well ok, prob-

ably more than the once as it truly is worth repeating but here goes...

Most dogs love food and will be particularly interested in what you’re eating when they see you eating it, but when those puppy dog eyes start begging for a tasty morsel of your mince pie this festive season, you may not be aware of the dangerous toxins that are hid-ing innocently inside. Did you know, for ex-ample, that the humble grape, which is part of our Five a Day, is a huge no no for your dogs? Along with the fresh grape comes the not so easily noticed dried raisin and both these fruity risks contain a toxin that may cause sickness and lethargy. In some cas-es the toxicosis can eventually lead to kidney failure.

The question that I absolutely love is “Can my dog eat this?” Simply by asking and tak-ing enough care to eliminate the culinary dangers you may unintentionally feed to your dog, you may not only be saving your dog’s life, but you will also be saving your-self one less trip to the vet, as well as help-ing your dog to have not only a very canine Christmas, but also a very yappy new year!

Prevention is better than cure folks!

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The HerbalistBone Broth And Berriesby Jo Farren

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Autumn is an amazing time of year – the leaves turning a burnt orange colour, the chill in the air, the warm glow of the sun and the promise of Christmas around the cor-ner. In reality, there are a few gorgeous au-tumnal days, but the rest of it can be a pretty picture-postcard ideal. For most, we get to enjoy this time of year for all of five minutes, in between busy schedules, work commit-ments, family life and a hectic social calen-dar.It’s typical that it’s now, when we are most burnt out, which happens to happily coin-cide with the time of year when bugs and colds are rife and so we are more suscep-tible to falling ill. Not to mention the added parties and events mean that we aren’t eat-ing and drinking as we should, so more than ever our bodies need care and nurture if we are to survive the darker months.

A good diet is the cornerstone of your health and ensuring good nutrition is key. My fa-vourite things are soups and stews (think slow cooker!) because you can throw in all kinds of vegetables and get a great shot of nutrients in one meal. Go for local root veg-gies and organic if possible – it’s now been shown that organic foods do have a high-er nutrient content than their non-organ-ic counterpart, but local is also important. Fewer hours from farm to fork are key for

preserving the goodness of our foods. I usu-ally throw a load of lentils or split yellow peas into my soups, to create a thicker substance and add a protein component to fill me up more (and stop me reaching for the bread!)

Bone broth this time of year is also really great. • Use the carcass of your Sunday roast chicken, roughly chop an onion, two carrots, a few stalks of celery and add bay leaves, salt, pepper and two tablespoons of cider vinegar to a large pan, with enough water to cover the bones. • Bring to a fast boil, then turn right down and simmer. For chicken or poultry it’s rec-ommended to do about 12 hours and for beef, double it. • Skim off any impurities which rise to the top in a foamy layer during the first few hours, then just keep an eye on the broth as it bubbles away. • Chuck in some parsley and garlic towards the end if you wish. • Once you’re done, you’ll need to strain it, then use the broth as a stock base, drink in cups as a soup or throw into pretty much an-ything you’re cooking. This can be the base for so many dishes and is so packed of nu-trients that it’s definitely worth doing and freezing batches down.


To further boost your immune system, you may still be able to catch the end of the wild hedgerow berries. Elderberries, blackber-ries and sloe are all amazing wild berries which are packed full of essential antioxi-dants and vitamin C. Stock up on them and freeze, unwashed, in one layer, or make a yummy syrup, to keep the vitamins locked in for the winter!

For overindulgence, plenty of water, green tea and light soups are the key. Go for bitter foods to help your liver. Dandelion root and milk thistle are traditional remedies which are used to help aid the liver and detox, so look towards these if you’ve been burning the midnight oil with a drink on the go. Don’t forget to eat well when you can, so you’re not allowing your body to fall into a slump of too much booze and sugar followed by more booze and sugar! Ultimately, balance is key, though Christmas parties aren’t known for their restraint generally, so just try and exercise balance as much as you can when you’re not out partying.

Be kind to yourself, don’t go on crazy bing-es or detoxes, get plenty of rest, good qual-ity sleep and EAT WELL. Even if it’s only the broth and berries, it’s a start.Enjoy the season!


REVIEW

Curio Cubalby The Editor

On my way into town through Hackney I needed some food, that was for sure, and I remembered a friend of mine talking about this great meal she had nearby so we looked this place up. Almost hiding in plain sight is a café on the corner of a large building with some kind of wooden yet grassy single story structure in front of it. Curiously we parked and walked on over.

The wooden structure was full of seating and people on their laptops having coffees and enjoying what was oddly a calmness right on the main road. You couldn’t see that from this point though, as there was a luscious grass wall above the seating area that hid everything away - we could have been an-ywhere.

We walked into the café and although it was small it just smelled amazing. What to have?? Yeah I wanted to eat what I could smell! When asking it turned out that it was ALL GONE! GUTTED!!! So I had what I actually wanted in the first place with some added extras, as everyone else’s food looked amaz-ing too. To stop me and my friend looking rather piggie like, we both split every ex-tra that we could possibly have. So it was Velvet Eggs on Rye and Sourdough for my friend. I had the mushrooms and avocado

and she had chorizo. (Yes I had extra I know. There was salmon too but that didn’t work with chorizo). Of course we both had a well earned coffee too.

We waited for our food with a little man with us to keep us occupied and soon enough the coffees emerged. Bliss! As it is every café has their own signature coffee tastes and to be honest it takes something special to re-ally make something of flat white, but this was superb. Their choice of coffee was full of caramel flavours and nice and strong, but not strong enough that I could taste that cigarette harshness that you sometimes get, it was more like a tasty burnt toffee. So far we had done better than we had hoped, as when you’re hungry and caffeine deprived you could be forced to have anything, but no need to worry here.

Food came and it looked great as you can see. Initially we both tasted our food in bits although I almost ate all of my mushrooms in one go! So much so that the lovely wait-er was called back and asked what was on them to make them so good!! (I’m not tell-ing you what he said, you will have to go and taste them for yourself.) We stole parts of each other’s food and laid into our brunch with pleasure. Even our little counterpart

sat quietly (oddly) and ate his cheesy toasted sandwich whilst we simply enjoyed a great meal in a perfect little hideaway.

It seems really silly but I don’t know how to describe how happy I was and my friend too. It was a lovely summer day in October and we sat outside with the beating sun slip-ping though parts of our grassy hideaway, warming us up whilst eating quite simply the perfect meal with a great coffee. For me it might have been that we were surrounded by artists and creatives chatting and laugh-ing, not judging, enthralled by conversations and whatever they were doing on their lap-tops. It was obviously a place to come with friends and relax. Everyone was smiling and nice, from the guys that worked there to the people that ate there which makes you feel instantly at ease. So we had to stay longer, we really didn’t want to go. The food was

so good that we had to have a lovely slice of cake and, oh no, another coffee. I had to try a decaff (I know I’m disgusting, but I would have buzzed out of there if I had a proper one), but thankfully that was really good too. With some sweet morsels of lovely choc-olate brownie and some lemon cake it all went down very well. By this point I couldn’t move. It was time to go. So with a couple of sneaky drinks for the drive, as I’d never heard of Karma Kola before, we were back on our merry way, hoping to return very soon.

If you fancy the perfect brunch or anything else for that matter then do head on over to Curio Cabal in Hackney.

Curio Cabal, 258 Kingsland Road, London E8 4DG


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Tasty Raw PiesBy Alison Matthews

You might think that pies can’t be part of a raw food lifestyle but I can assure you they can and they are tasty. There are so many pies you can eat – savoury and sweet. Once you’ve got the base, you can experiment with the filling.

Pie bases are made of nuts, with different additions for savoury and sweet. If you make a few, you soon get a feeling for which nuts work with which fillings. When I started out making pies, I didn’t have a dehydrator, so worked with the recipes for pie bases and they tasted delicious. The only difference was they weren’t the texture of pastry. I don’t bother to dehydrate my ‘pastry’ every time now, and these recipes are made with-out dehydrating. Just add any liquid slowly so you keep your base firm and don’t end up with a gooey mess.

Nuts are a staple part of a raw food diet. They are very versatile. Nuts are best soaked for a few hours before use. This is because they contain enzyme inhibitors which stop us digesting them fully. Soaking nuts makes them easier to digest and to get more nutri-tion from them. There is nothing wrong with eating unsoaked nuts, but they are more nu-

tritious if they are soaked before use. Ideally soak nuts for a minimum of 4 hours for soft-er nuts (e.g.cashews) and 6 hours for harder nuts (e.g. almonds and hazlenuts). Overnight is even better.

And, remember to rinse the nuts before you use them. If you are using dry nuts, you will need a nut grinder to grind them fully, but if they are soaked a good blender should be able to handle it and you don’t want them too powdery for pie bases anyway. I used to use a coffee grinder in the early days, and quick-ly wore out the blades grinding nuts! I rec-ommend the Revel Wet ‘n’ Dry grinder which is what I use now.

You may notice that I often say ‘to taste’ or ‘add a little at a time’ in my recipes. I do this as I find that, when I use other people’s reci-pes, the amounts stated are not always to my taste, or things do not set as expected. For example, medjool dates can be very sticky or dry, depending on where you buy them, or some limes or lemons may be sharper than others.


RECIPES

Tomato, Avocado & Basil Pie‘Pastry’:

¼ cup almonds¼ cup walnuts2 tablespoons coconut butter or oil1 teaspoon mustardHimalayan salt – pinch to taste

Mix the ingredients together and roll into a ball. Treat like pastry and press into a pie mould and refrigerate for 1 hour to set.

Filling:

6 halves of sun dried tomato or 2 fresh to-matoesHandful basil leaves½ tablespoon olive oil½ avocado¼ teaspoon Himalayan saltPinch ground black pepper

Chop the tomatoes and mix with olive oil, salt & pepper. Slice the avocado and put the tomato and avocado filling into your pie case. Garnish with basil leaves. Tips: Put cling film into your pie case before you put the ‘pastry’ filling in. This helps to get it out cleanly when the pie is ready.

Raw Key Lime Pie‘Pastry’:

¼ cup pecans¼ cup walnuts2 tablespoons coconut butter or oil¼ cup of medool datesHimalayan salt – pinch to taste

Mix the ingredients together in a food pro-cessor. Add the dates a few at a time so that the mixture stays dry and does not become too sticky. Medjool dates vary in their stick-iness. Gather your mixture into a ball and press into your pie case. Put in fridge or freezer to set for 1 hour.

Filling:

1 cup soaked cashew nutsJuice 1-2 limes (to taste)1 avocado2 tablespoons melted coconut oil2 tablespoons agave (to taste)

Put all of the ingredients into a high speed blender or food processor. If you don’t have a high speed blender, you may wish to grind the nuts first to make sure they are finely ground. Once you have a smooth, creamy paste, spoon it into your pie case and return to the fridge or freezer for an hour.

Tips: Line your pie case with cling film be-fore adding your ‘pastry’ so you can lift it out easily when it is ready. If you are freezing your pie to set it, take it out about 30 min-utes before you want to eat it. The key lime pie will keep in the freezer for a few months. You could add raw chocolate powder to your pastry if you wish.


FEATURE

Pumpkin Pieby Theo Michaels

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An American (and personal childhood) fa-vourite – Pumpkin Pie is the perfect Hallow-een treat and a great way to make the most of all those scary pumpkins! Especially with the added hint of maple syrup and dusting the tin with some cocoa power to give a love-ly bitterness to offset the sweet pie filling.

Living in New Jersey pumpkin pie was a firm favourite with the kids on our block. This is a simple and delicious recipe that really does make the most of all those cheap pumpkins we have at Halloween – and for the rest of the year you can use a Butternut Squash!

Ingredients:

500gms raw pumpkin flesh (or butternut squash for the other 11 months of the year!)100gms brown soft sugar4 tablespoons maple syrup150 ml double cream3 eggs, beaten1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon1 teaspoon of allspice1/2 teaspoon of grated nutmeg1/2 teaspoon of grated gingerGood pinch saltFew good grinds of black pepperReady made shortcrust pastryFlour, butter and cocoa powder for dusting

Method:Pastry:

First butter your pastry tin, then with equal quantities of cocoa powder and flour (mixed together) dust the tin and remove any excess dusting.

Roll out your shortcrust pastry and place in the pastry tin. Lay a sheet of greaseproof paper over your pastry and add some baking balls (I use some uncooked rice which works just as well!).

Blind bake for 30 minutes at 180°c.

Remove the baking sheet and weights and put back in the oven for five minutes to dry out the base. Once done remove from the oven and let cool.

Filling:A note on pumpkins – the smaller they are the sweeter they will be. However, for me, Pumpkin Pie is about wholesome comfort food and a great way to make something de-licious out of something really cheap that you’re buying anyway to stick a tealight in and sit on your windowsill – why waste all that lovely food?!

So, get your regular run of the mill pumpkin and cut out the pumpkin flesh (not the skin) into similar sized cubes (1-2 inches square), drizzle with olive oil and roast in the oven at 180°c for around 25 to 30 minutes. You want a slight colour and the flesh to be soft to the touch.

Once cooled, blend the pumpkin flesh (or mash really well) and push through a coarse sieve to remove any stringy pieces. Then add the rest of the ingredients:

100gms brown soft sugar4 tablespoons maple syrup150 ml double cream3 eggs beaten1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon1 teaspoon of allspice1/2 teaspoon grated of nutmeg1/2 teaspoon grated gingerGood pinch saltFew good grinds of black pepper

Give it a really good mix (it will look a lot

lighter in colour than the picture – but don’t panic because the pie will deepen in col-our and become much richer once you’ve cooked it).

Pour the mixture into your cooked pastry base, pop in the oven at 180°c for about 30 to 40 minutes (check at 30!). When it’s done it will be browned and firm with a very slight wobble.

Test by inserting a sharp knife into the pie – if it comes out clean it is cooked, if not, pop it back into the oven for five minutes.

Remove and let cool.

Goes well parties, screaming kids and fire-works in the sky (oh, and a decent dollop of clotted cream!)

Theo Michaels has a new series airing this winter on Simply Good Food TV and has just signed with a publisher to write his first cook book, out in summer 2016!


FOOD

A Very Special Pumpkin Pieby Elyse Quail

The Vegan


This is a recipe for a gluten free, vegan and refined sugar free pumpkin pie. I made this recently and it was divine, so I wanted to share it with you. Enjoy!

For the Crust:6 tablespoons of chilled coconut oil1-1/4 cups of gluten free flour1/4 teaspoon of salt4 to 6 tablespoons of ice cold water

For the Filling:2-3/4 cups of pumpkin purée1/4 cup of maple syrup1/4 cup of coconut or other unrefined sugar1/3 cup of unsweetened plain almond milk1 tablespoon of olive oil or melted coconut oil2-1/2 tablespoons of cornstarch or arrow-root powder1-3/4 tablespoons of a mixture of ground ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves1/4 teaspoon of sea salt

Method:

1. Add the gluten free flour and salt to a large mixing bowl and whisk to combine. Slice the cold coconut oil into the bowl and work gently with a fork or pastry cutter to cut it in.

2. Add the ice cold water a little at a time and use a wooden spoon to stir. Only add as much water as you really need to bring the dough together.

3. Once a loose dough is formed, shape it into a 1/2 inch thick disc and wrap tightly in cling film. Refrigerate for a minimum of 30 min-utes, up to 2 days if you’re preparing ahead. When you’re ready to use it, allow the dough to sit at room temperature for approximate-ly 1 hour before moulding it into a crust.

4. Next, put all the filling ingredients into a blender and blend until smooth, scraping down the sides as needed. Taste and adjust the seasonings as required. Set aside.

5. To roll out the crust, unwrap the disc and place it between two sizable layers of wax baking paper or parchment paper. Use a rolling pin to roll it gently into the shape of your pie pan. Be gentle with it!

6. Carefully transfer the crust to your pie pan. Gently use your hands to form it into the pan, working the crust up along the sides. 7. Pour the filling into the pie crust and bake at 180°C for approximately 1 hour. The crust


should be light golden brown. Remove from oven and let the pie cool completely before loosely covering and transferring it to the refrigerator to set completely for 4-6 hours, preferably overnight.

This pie is delicious served with whipped cream, va-nilla ice cream, (use coconut based products if you’re vegan), or a dash of cinnamon.

FEATURE

December At The Allotmentby Emma de Sousa

So December is upon us, things are quite at the vegetable patch and now is the time to sit back, relax and reflect on the past years successes and failures. What did you grow that you wish you hadn’t or did you simply grow too much of something, so much even the neighbours were sick of your carrots and runner beans! How many ways can you ac-tually cook a courgette (quite a lot as it turns out I have discovered)!

My biggest lesson in my first year at the al-lotment was that I planted far too much of one thing and completely underestimated how big some things can grow and spread. Next year I shall leave more space between my crops and sow less of everything, but in-troduce more varieties – so lots of different crops but only one or two rows of each.

December is the time to sit with your seed catalogues and plan the following year – we all know we need to rotate our crops to prevent disease and keep the soil from be-coming infertile so now is a good time to scribble a rough plan of what will go where, order your seeds (hopefully you have man-aged to collect lots of seeds of your own an-yway so as the years go by you will spend less and less on buying them) and just enjoy the peace and quite of it all. Maybe spend some time repairing broken fences, cleaning out the greenhouse ready for Spring and do-ing all those little odd jobs that you simply didn’t have time for earlier in the year. You have worked hard and before you know it Spring will be upon us and you will be fran-

tically weeding and hoeing and digging once again. Hopefully you have prepared well and the job will be a welcome change and a sign that there are good things to come at the veg patch. Remember, little and often is the key to keeping on top of things in the garden and at the allotment.

People always assume that December is a boring time in the garden or allotment but I love this time of year – so many lovely things around and I love foraging for bits and pieces to make my own Christmas wreaths – rose-hips, teasles, hydrangea heads – why not try your hand at making your own wreath, its easier than you think and once you know how you will never buy another awful DIY shop wreath again. There is lots of help out there if you want it – books, the internet or a practical workshop…..you can make one for virtually nothing and its lots of fun and looks stunning hanging on your front door.

Don’t forget to feed the birds at this time of year….don’t sweep up that pile of leaves or clear those logs yet as you may have a hiber-nating hedgehog underneath. If you do dis-turb one carefully lift it and move it to a safe, dry place….

So just sit back, relax with a glass of home-made sloe gin and dream of all those lovely things you will grow next year – bigger, bet-ter and always learning, no matter how long you have been growing….here’s to a cosy winter and to a long and prosperous Summer…..


FEATURE

Pie, Mash And Liquorby Gemma Speakman

Pie, mash and liquor - the very sentence makes my mouth start to inadvertently sal-ivate - that kind of involuntary seeping of water that takes place around the root of the jaw area. It’s what happens when your brain and your mouth connect in some weird body symbiosis. Then I start thinking about chil-li vinegar and white pepper that is general-ly doused all over the said pie and mash to make it taste even better and then it’s bor-derline tongue drowning.

If you’re not familiar with the traditional East End delight that is pie, mash and liquor you need to try it first hand. Forget the conveyor belt gastro pubs and the glut of ‘posh’ pies out there. For the real deal, take a trip to a traditional pie shop in East or South London and savour not only the food but some his-tory too - many of these pie shops are insti-tutions in themselves - comprising some of the oldest surviving eateries in the UK.

The Victorians were big on pies, it was, after all their main ‘fast food’ staple. There were no such things as burgers, ‘ dogs or sliders back in those days. Pies were affordable, plentiful and resourceful and were popular amongst the working classes. They were ab-aking in their thousands in the neighbour-hoods and instead of pie shops it was not unusual for a pie-man to sell his little bits of food heaven on foot - pastry loaded with

meat, fruit and eels - these river snakes be-ing prevalent in the heavily polluted River Thames and duly put to good use as a frugal but satisfying pie filler.

Alas, demand grew big and pie and mash shops began to spring up, clustering in the East and South where they were most pop-ular amongst the working classes. The first shop is thought to have opened in 1850 - it was all very Victorian glam - gilt lettering adorned the shop front, white tiled walls with mirrors, marble floors and ornate iron counters and booths complete with sawdust floors to mop up the eel bones that were rou-tinely spat out. As time and tastes moved on, minced beef and onion was preferred and started to replace eels. So as not to dis-card eels completely from the dish, liquor was re-invented as a kind of gravy to lather all over the pastry and spuds. It was made by using the water used for stewing eels and adding lashings of parsley to create a kind of wonderful, green, gloupy soup. Sounds aw-ful but trust me, it’s the only thing to drown your pie and mash in. Nowadays the tradi-tion remains as tight as it ever was with only one pie filling generally available (beef and onion) - and no gravy or ketchup available. Amazing really that this traditional meal hasn’t felt the need to move on, modernise or change for anyone, even Heinz or Bisto!

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London’s oldest existing pie, mash and eel shop is M. Manze’s, which opened on Tow-er Bridge Road in 1891. Founded by a man hailing from southern Italy it was here that Michele Manze started his pie empire and this very premises remains open today (as well as his two other shops in Peckham and Sutton). Several of Michele’s broth-ers followed his lead, opening up their own shops bearing the family name. Manze’s in Walthamstow is still going strong and the shop received a Grade II heritage listing in 2013.

As well as the Manze’s family being integral in pie land so too were the Cooke’s (no pun intended). Fred Cooke opened his first pie, mash and eel shop in Clerkenwell in 1862, and before long had a glut of shops across east London. His site on Broadway Market (estd. 1900) is still running today, with Fred’s grandson Bob at the helm. A new genera-tion of the business has been kicked off by Bob’s daughter who has even opened a pie and mash shop herself to cater for the East Enders who have defected to Essex.

Pie and Mash shops - they’re as London as black cabs and beefeaters. You’re spoilt for choice if you know where to look.

7 best pie and mash shops

Broadway Market F COOKE - 9 Broadway Market, London E8 4PH

S&R Kelly & Sons - 284 Bethnal Green Rd, London E2 0AG

G Kelly - 526 Roman Rd, London E3 5ES

Arments Pie & Mash - 7-9 Westmoreland Rd, Walworth, London SE17 2AX

M Manze - 87 Tower Bridge Rd, London SE1 4TW

Manzes - 76 High St, London E17 7LD

Robin’s Pie & Mash -14 High Street Wan-stead, London E11

RECIPE

PROPPA PARSLEY LIQUOR Ingredients (serves 4)

25g butter25g plain flour300ml eel stock (or fish/chicken stock/pota-to water/milk)4 teaspoons fresh parsley1 teaspoon malt vinegarsalt and pepper

MethodMelt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and cook for 1 minute.

Gradually add the water/stock/milk (what-ever you are using). Bring to the boil without stopping to stir as it will go lumpy.

Add the parsley and vinegar.

Add salt and pepper to taste.

Pour all over pie and mash and DEVOUR

Meal for the season

FOOD

PIESWINTER WARMING SHEPHERD’S PIE(Should serve six...)By Gillian BalcombeThis yummy, comforting dish has been a firm favourite in my house for many years. I hope it becomes a favourite of yours as well!

Ingredients:160g diced red onion (one large)125g diced carrot (one large)125g diced celery (two sticks)2 tablespoons of olive oil500g minced lamb125g diced courgette (one medium)3 good sized cloves of garlic, crushed400g can of chopped tomatoes, plus same amount of water1 heaped teaspoon of Dijon mustard1 teaspoon of soya sauce1 tablespoon of tomato purée1 beef stock cube or stock potBlack pepper to taste

750g to 950g chopped potatoes, depending upon how thick you like the potato topping!40g to 50g of butter of non dairy spread80g to 100g of milk, dairy or otherwiseSalt and pepper to tasteGrated cheddar cheese (optional)

Method:Gently heat the olive oil in a deep sided pan - do not allow to reach smoking point. Add

the onion, carrot and celery, and soften the vegetables for about five to ten minutes, stirring all the while.

Once the onions have become translucent, add the minced lamb, break it up as you add it to the pan. Mix it well with the partially cooked diced vegetables, add the courgette and garlic and cook through, allowing the meat to brown but making sure the garlic doesn’t catch.

When the meat has browned and the vege-tables are cooked through, add the chopped tomatoes to the pan and then refill the can with water and add that as well. Don’t worry that it looks runny! Then add the mustard, soya sauce, tomato purée, beef stock cube (crumbled) or stock pot and black pepper to taste. Stir until everything is combined then allow the entire mixture to simmer well and reduce until you have a pan full of glo-rious thick, meaty, vegetably deliciousness. Transfer the contents of the pan to an oven proof dish and allow to cool slightly.

Preheat the oven to 200°C (convection), 180°C (fan) or gas mark 6.

While the meat mixture is simmering and reducing, cook the chopped potatoes until soft in slightly salted water. Drain well and return to the pot. Add the butter or spread

and milk, and mash until you have a smooth consistency. You may find that you need a little more or less butter / spread and milk, depending on the type of potato. Season to taste.

Spread the potato mixture over the meat mixture carefully, so that the sauce doesn’t immediately come through. I’ve found that the easiest way to do this is to spoon the po-tato in dollops on top of the meat, then join up the dots! Create swirls, lines or any other sort of pattern with a fork - this will help the potato to become really crisp and golden in the oven. You can of course pipe the potato if it’s a posh Shepherd’s Pie. If you like grat-ed cheese on top as well, sprinkle it on now.

Place the dish on a baking sheet in case of escaping sauce - it’s a lot easier to clean that than an entire oven. Cook for about 30 minutes, or until the top has started to turn brown and the cheese (if you’ve used it) has melted into the potato.

You already have quite a lot of hidden vege-tables in this pie that your children are un-likely to notice, so don’t worry if they reject your offer of another green vegetable such as French beans or broccoli. Simply add a side order of baked beans for a really com-forting dinner instead. Makes a great Sun-day lunch too.

FISH PIEBy Dorothy MartinezIn our house, fish pie is to winter what Paella is to summer - good, comforting and quin-tessentially autumn/winter. Also, it’s very, very hard to screw it up - you can vary ingre-dients quite considerably to use up things you have in your cupboards. Use whatever fish you like, but I always in-clude some smoked, white fish, salmon and prawns. Using sour cream or even crème fraiche can lighten the dish a bit but if you have some cream lying around then it’s a great opportunity to use that - I’ve even been known to use plain yogurt if it’s left over and

it’s been fine.

You’ll need to start with something oniony - traditionally I think leek is used, but again, use up any shallots or onions you have left over - maybe vary them depending on how strong they are but I’d aim for roughly four large handfuls of leek to two handfuls of chopped shallots or a medium sized onion. But as I said, it’s hard to mess it up.

It’s fine to eat by itself, especially if you’ve added spinach or tomato, but you could serve with a salad - watercress goes espe-cially well – and / or some extra fine beans, dressed in a seasoned combination of lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil.

Ingredients:Juice of 1 large lemon300g(ish) each of smoked haddock or cod, salmon and raw prawns500g floury potaoes - White or Maris Piper are fineSalt and pepper1 Leek/1 medium onion/4-5 shallots - sliced leek or reasonably finely chopped onions or shallots 150g butter1 large tablespoon flour250ml milk300g Sour cream (or cream, yogurt or crème fraiche)200g grated Cheddar cheese (I use strong Cheddar) Optional 2 Tomatoes, sliced or peeled and dicedBaby spinach

Method1. Preheat oven to hot, i.e. 220°c (200°c for fan ovens) or gas mark 7). Remove skin and bones of fish and chop into bite sized chunks - don’t chop the prawns. Put in a bowl with the lemon juice and a generous grind of salt and pepper.

2. Peel potatoes and put on to boil in plenty of water with a generous pinch of salt. How

WINTER WARMING SHEPHERD’S PIE

FISH PIE

SPINACH PIE

CHICKEN, BACON AND MUSHROOM PIE


long they take to cook will depend on how small you cut the potatoes but check them with a sharp knife after 15 minutes. If they slide off, they’re done.

3. Meanwhile, melt about half the butter in a large pan - I use a cast iron hob to oven pan, but you can always assemble things lat-er in an oven proof dish if that’s how you do things. Once butter is melted, throw in the leeks (or substitute) and soften them gently. Don’t let them catch so keep an eye on them and stir regularly.

4. Once leeks are softened, add the flour and stir quickly so that it mixes in with the butter and no lumps are left. Keep stirring quickly for around 2 minutes until flour turns gold-en. Then add the milk gradually - and keep stirring it in quickly, again making sure no floury lumps are left. Once the milk is added you’ll need to give this pan a lot of attention or the flour will stick to the bottom. 5. Over the next 5 to 10 minutes, the sauce should start to thicken up. When this hap-pens, add the sour cream (or substitute) and stir in. Then add the fish that’s been mar-inating in the lemon juice and stir in well. Leave this on a low heat so that it’s just bub-bling and stir occasionally.

6. Mash potatoes and add the remains of the butter, the grated cheese and the remains of the sour cream (or substitute) so it’s mixed in well.

7. If transferring to an oven proof dish, do so now. Also, if there’s excess sauce then it’s best to remove a bit now or you’ll have a big mess in the oven. Ideally maybe a third of the fish will be poking out the top of the sauce.

8. If using spinach and / or tomato, either ar-range them on the top of the fish pie or stir

them in. Then carefully arrange the mashed potato on the top and dot a few extra bits of butter around to give it a nice crisp sur-face. Transfer to the oven and check back in about 15-20 minutes. When it’s going golden on top, it’s ready to transfer straight to the table and serve.

Chicken, Bacon and Mushroom PieBy Penny LangfordServes about 4

Can be made either individually and one large family pie too. But you might also like just to share with just one very special other as its very moreish and devilishly good.

Ingredients

2 boneless skinless chicken breasts sliced into strips 4 strips of bacon sliced into pieces (not too small)Salt and Pepper2 tbsp of good olive oil2 onions finely sliced2 garlic cloves finely chopped1 medium packet of button mushrooms2 tsp fresh tarragon (but you can use dried if you don’t have any)50ml white wine 200ml fresh chicken stock (but you can also use a cube too)142ml carton of double cream2 tbsp chopped fresh parsley (but you can use dried if you don’t have any)1 x 275g packet of ready to roll puff pastry1 egg beaten

MethodPreheat the oven to about 180C/ gas mark 4. Season the chicken and cook it in a pan with the bacon in the olive oil, making sure that you brown the chicken. Then take the chick-en out and put it to one side.


Add the onions and garlic to the bacon and cook until the onions have softened. If you have large pieces of bacon fat that have not browned or are not to your taste to leave them in the pie, now is the time to take those bits out leaving in the bacon meat. Add the mushrooms and tarragon and cook until the mushrooms are beginning to col-our. Then add the wine and allow it to sim-mer until its almost evaporated, and then add the stock.

Once the stock has simmered and begun to evaporate also its time to add your cream and cook till it’s starting to thicken. Then add the parsley and season if needed with some pepper, (you probably won’t need any salt, but that’s up to you.)

Leave it to cool down a little and then add the chicken to the sauce. Now is when I add the mixture to my pie dish and being careful not to fill it more than 1 cm below the top of the dish or it will leak when in the oven.

Put the dish to one side and get out your puff pastry. Roll it out to ensure that it covers your dish but isn’t too thin. Beat your egg and start my adding a little to the rim of your pie dish, then gently put your pastry over your pie dish covering the filling and whilst pushing the edges down, give them a little pinch to give that look. Or press it down gently with your fingers and get a fork and make indentations with its prongs to leave little lines against the edges of the pie, which works and looks really good too. You can also use your fork to make tiny little holes/patterns in the pastry too should you wish.Then brush your beaten egg over the pas-try so that it can brown in the oven for 25-30 minutes till golden brown and hot in the middle.

You can eat this amazing pie with some roast potatoes and hot veggies.

Spinach PieServes between 4 and 6 people, depending on it being a main or a side part of your meal.

Ingredients2 medium bags of spinach1 packet of excellent feta cheese2 eggssalt and pepper1 tsp ground nutmeg1tsp ground cinnamon 1 packet of filo pastyLots of olive oil

MethodPre heat the over to about 180 C/ gasmark 4.

Take a nice pot big pot and add a couple of tsp of olive oil to warm up and then add your spinach. You will probably want to add this one at a time but relatively quickly so that it all cooks together at the same time. This happens very fast. Don’t have the heat on too hot or you will start to burn your pan. You have to keep stirring to ensure that everything is getting the heat and cooking properly.

Add your eggs and mix it into the spinach so that it all gets covered in the egg. Take your feta cheese packet and whilst still sealed start to crumble the cheese with your hands so that when you open it its all in little piec-es. Then add it all to the spinach and egg mixture.

Then add your nutmeg and cinnamon whilst everything is nice and wet looking and give it all a big stir.

This is all done quite quickly so keep an eye on your pot so that it’s all cooking nicely and not getting too hot.

Take your pan that you are going to build


your pie into and make sure that your filo pastry will cover the bottom, you don’t need to worry about the sides. This is usually a square pan or dish.

You then need to build. Take the dish and brush some oil onto the bottom to stop the pastry from sticking. Then take one piece of filo and brush that with some oil too and add it to the bottom of the dish. Then take another piece of filo and lightly brush it with oil and add that on top of the other piece of filo. With your average packet of filo pastry you will be able to use 4-5 pieces of pastry on the bottom of the pie.

Then you add the spinach mixture on top and spread it out to over the dish. If there is a lot of water at the bottom of the spin-ach mixture then don’t add all of it as it will

wet the pasty a little too much but some is good. (If you want to add it all you may need to keep the pie in the oven for a little longer.)You then need to add the remaining pastry to cover the spinach again one at a time brush-ing each piece with a little olive oil, including of course the top piece.

Then you put it into the oven for about 30-40 minutes until golden brown.

This is perfect with some roast chicken and vegetables or it’s a great main with some couscous, mushrooms and of course lots of humous.

FOOD

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Another winter warmer and it’s super easy once you’ve got everything in the pan. I generally do these in the pressure cooker these days, but it’s also a good dish to pre-pare early and then cook slowly in the oven for 3 hours or so.

It’s another good recipe to make use of things you have in as you can chuck in a variety of veggies and experiment with different ones. Try Jerusalem artichokes if you can get hold of any - they’re especially nice, but other-wise, the usual stew suspects of potatoes, carrots, parsnips and squash all work very well. I’ve also used a red pepper from time to time which works quite well. You can just have it with bread (and copious amounts of butter), but we often like to add a jacket po-tato and lots of cheese (just omit the potato in the actual stew if you’re going to do this).

A lot of people use wine in stews, but we tend to use a bottle of beer - again, experiment with whatever you have around - we’ve used everything including Guinness, real ale, la-ger and white beer. I vaguely recall using a bottle of Becks once and thinking it worked especially well - but it’s difficult to go wrong. Any liquid left over - more likely in the pres-sure cooker - is very nice the following day as a lunchtime soup.

This recipe serves our family (two adults and two kids):

Ingredients:

60g butter1 medium onion or about 5 shallots roughly dicedHerbs - a few sprigs of one or more of: rose-mary, thyme, sage - no need to chop they can go in on the stems1 tbsp plain flour500-600g diced beef1 x 300ml bottle of beer/stout/lager or 300ml red wine500ml beef stock (I use 2 stock cubes)Vegetables - any combination of: 1-2 carrots, 4 Jerusalem artichokes, 2 parsnips, squash (butternut or pumpkin), baby potatoes, whole shallots (peeled), red pepper, auber-gine, courgette or anything else you want to try. In terms of quantity, use whatever you can fit in the pan.

Method:

1. Prepare all vegetables and chop into fairly large chunks. 2. Melt butter in either a hob to oven pan or a pressure cooker pan. (If necessary, you

Meal for the season

FOOD

Beef Stewby Dorothy Martinez

can start cooking in a regular saucepan and then transfer to an oven proof casserole dish for the bulk of the cooking.)

3. Add chopped onions or shallots and herbs. Once softened, add flour and stir well, ensuring no lumps remain. Once the mixture has turned golden, add the beer and continue to stir until smoothly combined. Then add the beef and continue to stir until it starts to brown.

4.Add the stock and the rest of the vegeta-bles and stir round well.

5. a) If using a pressure cooker, put the lid on now and cook on high pressure for around 50 minutes, releasing pressure at the end of cooking according to the instructions of your appliance. You may want to pop it back on the hob and reduce the liquid a bit, but ei-ther way, you’ll have a wonderful, tasty stew. b) If oven cooking, put lid on and put in a moderately hot oven, around 190°c (170°c for fan ovens) or gas mark 5), for about 3 hours. 6. Serve in a bowl with bread or jacket pota-toes on the side.


FOOD

Pork Noodle Soup

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Main Ingredients: A good handful of Bean Sprouts or more to taste1 small packet of Rice Noodle 1 bunch of Coriander 1 or 2 Spring Onion finely chopped.1 packet of Mince Pork.

Ingredients for the Soup or Stock.2 1/2 litres of water1 Pork Bone or Spare Rib 1 tablespoon Soy sauce 2 cloves of Garlic, crushed 1 Onion chop in half 1 teaspoon ground black pepper 1 tablespoon of white sugar 1 Bunch of Coriander stalk

Method: 1. Put 2 1/2 litres of water in a pot leave it until it boils then add pork bone or spare rib into it. Followed by the rest of the ingredient for the soup, close the lid.

2. When the soup has started to boil, put the heat down to low heat and leave it to boil with the lid on for about 1 hour at least.

3. While you waiting for the stock you can prepare the noodle by soaking it in cold wa-ter for 5 minutes then bring it to boil in the pan for 1-2 minutes. Always test the noodle make sure it’s not over cook.

4. Chop coriander and spring onion togeth-er. 5. Put some of the mince pork in pot with the stock and bring it to boil for 5 minutes or until it’s cook through.

6. Put the noodles into individual bowls, fol-low by the rest of the lightly fried mince pork, bean sprouts then coriander and spring on-ion, then add the soup into your bowl.

Tip: For more flavour in the soup: In Thai-land we also add Chili Power, Chili paste, Lime Juice and Fish sauce. You can always drink the soup on its own which is always nice too.


FEATURE

Food & Inners “Deconstructed”by Gemma Speakman

It’s a short review this month. EAT the aji amarillo ‘deconstructed’ cheesecake from Molé ENDS

Joking aside and throwing review ‘order’ as we know it completely out here but this plateful of ‘deconstruction’ is worth starting with and is actually the best dessert I have ever tasted. Not that impressive an acco-lade granted, given I am not a purveyor of all things sweet but I have had enough desserts in my time to know that this is definitely the Best. Pudding. Ever. The dish itself is an in-stant juxtaposition - devilishly sweet man-go fruit made into some delectable cream topping (served in the perfect spoon shape - natch, Masterchef professionals!) and then it hits you - the chilli! Yes folks, it’s spicy. And the crumble underneath?? I had to ask the chef how he made the base - it had this almost impossible crunch which was mo-mentarily shattered when he told me it was simply down to sugar and flour. Who knew such simple things could taste so good? A king of desserts, a sum of the most beauti-fully manicured component parts and right there a bona fide taste sensation, minding its own, tucked quietly away in Picton Place in the shadow of its’ neighbour Selfridges. Molé is a small and intimate affair (a ‘bou-

tique Mexican and taco’ place) and it feels very homely as soon as you step in. The de-cor is fairly simple but impactful - the whole place is peppered with the most wonderful skulls, beautifully decorated by local artisans in Mexico. A wonderful painting of heroine Frida Kahlo and bespoke wall art crafted by the infamous and anarchic pattern fiends, Timorous Beasties www.timorousbeasties.com adorn the walls. The simple wooden high stools are smooth and sleek and are en-cased in beautiful fabrics from Christian La-croix & the ultimate palm frond enthusiast, Matthew Williamson. Twin the luxe textiles and art with the exposed, half painted brick walls and a bar that you don’t want to leave (when you get a spot), and therein lies a truly wonderful food hub which is a dab hand at cocktails too (try the virgin Coco Fresco).

So to loop seamlessly from dessert to ‘IN-TRO,’ the pre-starter if you like, of course, at a Mexican eatery at the beginning, it’s the guaca-molé! Served chunky here and dot-ted with pomegranate seeds that have that trés good habit of bursting in your mouth to keep you diving in (also helped by the little sweepings of salt and pepper tucked in the corner of the very cute small square plates it’s served on). Then to the RAW bar for some black ceviche. Octopus, mussels, sea-bass, red onion and avocado drenched in

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squid ink and seasoned to perfection in lime with a splattering of toasted corn to keep that ‘texture’ thing a mouth regular. Also, and something I don’t usually notice for cold dishes but here I did and it’s fairly crucial - it was served at the perfect temperature - cool as fish should be but not so cold as to negate its true taste. Next up, sticky chicken wings - honestly, they weren’t the best (though I have just returned from a holiday in Buffalo so the competition is still fresh in my mind). Slightly overcooked and bathed in a too chunky, lumpy sauce - though perhaps felt more so after the almost detoxifying clean-liness of the ceviche. Next Baja Fish tacos served on a gluten free (and home baked on the premises) taco. The fish was wonderfully crisp but the jalapeno slaw kept catching me out with its heat, in a good way. Beautiful-ly sized portion especially as it was dish 4! Other dishes available in Molé include South American street food staple, ‘anticuchos’ (marinated skewers of fish, meat and vegeta-bles) and if it’s a more hearty meal you’re af-ter, tuck into the larger dishes which include sea bass with lemon zest, 16-hour braised Chipotle beef short rib, marinated in home made sauce. This cosy but cool place comes highly recommended.

A short hop and skip away tucked around the curvaceous Curzon Street to I, Robert a name inspired by a drawing of a very talent-ed British Artist, Kate Boxer, (www.katebox-er.co.uk) whose picture of the regal sound-ing rabbit adorns the downstairs wall as you walk in. A beautiful picture that despite its simple silhouette and colour manages to convey a sense of knowing and movement - to me anyway. The mysterious power of art - a two way conversation between artist and recipient that’s as unique as a fingerprint. I Robert’s kitchen is presided over by the bril-liant Michele Granziera, who spent seven years at Zafferano.

It feels quite different as you walk into this place - set out on 2 floors, the ‘Bearded’* and I climbed the stairs - second interesting interior detail is that each step has beautiful tile detail on each one - a random selection of eye-catching aztec prints as you mounted upwards. Then as you enter the dining room it’s all very ornate cornicing and a soothing blue wash all over the walls and ceilings, quite a contrast to the bold post box red ex-terior. For some reason your eye is drawn upwards - maybe it’s down to the seamless-ness of the room colour - there’s no white ceiling here and no reason to break colour. It’s not quite Sistine Chapel and no Gods cir-cle above you (that you can see anyway) but it feels comforting. Perhaps it’s the absolute fantastic upcycling of otherwise redundant crystal brandy decanters (that our parents really did use), here starring as a chandelier in the centre of the dining room. The chairs are proper chairs with sides and uphol-stered in a comfortable fabric - no wooden arse ache here after a long sitting.

The vibe inside is quiet and it feels at first like it should be formal but somehow it’s not stuffy - it might be down to the service that’s that’s very present but very un-intru-sive. Kicking off with a cocktail (their list is extensive and unique). A house ‘I ROBERT’ was like a sugar candy cane melted in a glass - very tasty but dangerous given how virgin it tasted. So to the food in this ‘mediterra-nean’ restaurant. Melon and parma ham to start was average - good ham but the mel-on they serve here is firm whereas I always think it’s better softer and sweeter with the salty ham. The Bearded had the Chef’s salad - great mouth prep for what was afoot - lots of crunch and zing. Next up the pasta - the mushroom and potato parcels were totally divine - and my inital thoughts that the carb on carb wouldn’t work were unfounded. The other pasta dish was a fish spaghetti - super fishy tasting and the pasta was cooked as it

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should be but so often isn’t, al dente. Thirds, a rib eye with semi cooked tomatoes which was sumptuous and a phenomenally sized chorizo stew that had every taste bud erect with it’s punch and spicy heat build. We also tried the pulled pork and cannelini bean dish which is definitely worth going back for alone - melt in your mouth meat and such an intense flavour gathered over the slow cook. For pudding there is a good selection but for me and the B, given it was course number 4, it was a trio of sorbets - wonderfully re-freshing and cleansing for the palette - in particular the passion fruit one.

This place is a great little eatery tucked in what can be a snobby part of town. Despite it having white tablecloths and from a glance outside a touch of sneering superiority about it, inside it’s a different story and the hand rolled pasta is outstanding. And if you don’t have time for a full blown meal - they do a damn good board of charcuterie and a bottle of wine for a steal at £15.50.

Oh and did I mention the ladies toilet? It feels like a fringe theatre company has hi-jacked the place and you are a part of a roll call of actresses playing a part during the night when nature calls - doing your busi-ness, blowing your nose, checking your face, pouting, putting on lipstick (badly)- what-ever it is you choose to do - I Robert, the knowing rabbit is quite a character.


To south of the river- and I must confess how little I wander around these parts - but wonderful places to eat, drink good cof-fee and shop in trendy boutiques are here in abundance and I’ve made a gastronomic promise to be more ‘southside’. The exterior of Village East Bermondsey on Bermondsey Street caught my eye with its wonderful-ly retro sign outside. Then I saw the hang-ing basket in its shadow which was really in need of some TLC. Great sign, shame about its browning, dehydrated companion and it made me wonder why make so much effort in one way but not another. It was a shape of things to come.

It’s very easy on the eye once you walk in - soft industrial greys and brown tones dom-inate with areas of exposed brick, aged wooden floors and vintage tiles all bathed in a low light with only glowing lemon sherbet coloured lampshades and the red salt and pepper mills for pops of colour. Unique in-terior props also make an appearance such as the wall of what looks like old safety de-posit boxes in a gorgeous shade of muted yellow and an old post office booth (for a toi-let).

I was after a super quick lunch and so popped in (tho it looked closed from the outside). It was quieter than I expected but I was a little early and by the time I left there was a defi-nite buzz, all after a decent lunch with a rea-sonable price tag - (2 courses for £15 or 3 for £19), although you wouldn’t know this as it’s not advertised outside - another shame and the owners are missing a trick there.

I was in and out in less than 45 minutes - ex-actly what I needed - so the service is good. I chose the smoked salmon served on a board with sourdough toast and the creamiest cream cheese - basic but satisfying (and let’s be honest hard to go wrong - except there was no fresh lemon). Why wouldn’t you

have fresh lemon with cured salmon? Surely that’s standard? As it was Friday it was hard to avoid fish ’n’ chips for mains.

Excellently moist fish cooked to perfection and yummy chips tho they were tepid which always ruins chips and the establishment didn’t have malt vinegar (!) which for me, is cardinal sin. Another basic oversight and it’s a shame. But, with chips discarded the pea puree and fish made for an adequate and satisfying lunch.

I didn’t have time for pudding but the selec-tion given it was an express lunch seemed generous - lucky dip truffles, ice cream or an artisan cheese board. The overall feel-ing here is this little place tucked in and amongst other artisan eateries and bou-tiques has great potential but there’s some-thing missing in more than one area. The setting and the food are good - it just needs a little love and dedication in places (maybe an astute front of house would be a good start, of which there was a distinct lack).

As Van Gogh once uttered... ‘great things are done by a series of small things brought together. ’ If they sort these niggly, annoying things that shouldn’t be overlooked, this place could soar.

* if it’s permissible for AA Gill to call his din-ing partner ‘the Blond’, my review partner shall be dubbed his own B name.

www.moletacobar.comwww.irobert.london www.villageeast.co.uk

ENDS (really, ENDS)

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FEATURE

From Chianti To Aldiby Matt Philips

I’m well aware that this isn’t a popular view-point but I’ve long extolled the virtues of drinking a glass of wine every evening, Mon-day through to Sunday, and repeat through-out the year.

The Mediterranean Lifestyle I like to call it.

I’m pretty certain I read about that once, al-though I can’t be 100% sure in all honesty, so it’s quite possible I made it up.

Anyway, forget this apple a day keeps the doctor away nonsense, you’d need a solid al-cohol intake as well if your wife insisted on watching Holby City every week…and I’m talking from experience here.

People frown upon the Mediterranean Life-style in the UK. “You drink every day?” is the general response as their brain ticks over to surmise whether I’m the second com-ing of Oliver Reed and liable to rock up to a mid-morning meeting several sheets to the wind.

Believe you me, I’ve been in several meet-ings where you needed a stiff drink just to get through it.

Luckily I have a royal seal of approval on the wine front. No, I haven’t had a letter from Buckingham Palace on such matters, al-though I’m pretty certain the Queen and Co have got a bottle of Merlot on the go after a long day opening residential homes and making sure those corgis are fed and wa-tered.

No, I’m talking Rock ‘n’ Roll royalty in Rod Stewart….while promoting his new album recently, Rod told journalists that he refuses to have soft drinks at dinner and has three glasses of wine without fail. This is music to my ears. But THREE?! This is a level above the world I’ve been operating in.

Yes, Rod will have two glasses of white be-fore finishing off with a tasty red. We can only assume that someone else has done the post-dinner washing up at this point in the Stewart household, because if I had three glasses then those pots and pans wouldn’t be touched until the next morning as I’d be snoozing through EastEnders on the sofa.

Last year I spent a great week in the Tuscan region of Chianti, and, as a supporter of lo-cal business, felt it only right to spend many Euros on their local products as possible, so shipped back enough wine to give the post-man a hernia when he tried to carry it up the garden path.

One of the standout bottles from that trip was the 2009 Castello di Radda complete with the black cockerel insignia at the top of the bottle to signify that this is a proper Chi-anti Classico. We’re talking Premier League levels of wine making here and a drop that any sane wine lover will ration throughout the year.

At one point I went through a mini phase where I wouldn’t drink the Classico but would just look admiringly at the bottle in the cabinet instead.

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So imagine my surprise when given a glass of red at dinner recently that tasted like the greatest summer day ever and brought on flashbacks to that Chianti trip of rolling green hills, the winding roads and quaint family owned vineyards.

“Oh, you’ve opened the Classico, great choice,” I said to Mrs P as she wandered into the dining room.

“Oh no, this wine is from Aldi,” was the breezy response.

Quicker than you could pop a cork the image of Chianti and the Italian countryside sud-denly fell away and plummeted through a trapdoor in my mind as confusion suddenly reigned down.

Aldi? As in the budget supermarket Aldi?! Surely not…

Apparently so…

Exclusive to Aldi, this was a bottle of Bush-land, produced in South Australia and la-belled as Shiraz.

Shiraz is of course the new world wine mak-ing name for the Syrah grape which has its roots in France and is historically well known for being grown throughout the Rhone Val-ley.

But the Syrah grape’s fondness for hot and cold climates means it can flourish in Aus-tralia and thank God for that because as far as off the shelf supermarket wine goes Bushland is one of the best out there with a berry finish that will have you returning for a top up.

Just make sure you’ve done the washing up first...

Matt Phillips is a singer-songwriter and frontman for Essex based guitar pop band Ghost Station.


FEATURE

Sparkling Waterby The Editor

Let’s face it, there is a lot of information coming out on-line about things that peo-ple are researching into about everything, including lots about our food and water. One particular subject that is flavour of the month is whether you should be drinking water from your kitchen tap, or if you should only drink bottled water. With so many peo-ple going onto the bottled water bandwagon, do they think or know about the BPA chem-icals that can be released into their water and what they can do? BPA chemicals have been found to be carcinogenic, so why are we drinking from them or why haven’t the manufacturers of these bottles changed how they are being produced?

Should we all be drinking water from the tap instead or does that have its own prob-lems because of the pipes themselves and of course where that water is in fact com-ing from too? Some hospitals have changed their purification systems by adding silver ions to them to eradicate things like Legion-naires Disease, which is caused by a buildup of bacteria in water systems. Although Le-gionnaires disease, I’m very much doubting is running rife in this country as it’s not hot enough here, but it is interesting that it is being managed. It is an important thing in the UK workplace that has to be protected against in all water systems, cooling towers and evaporative condensers. You can find more information on this on the Govern-

ments website. All of this sounds so exhausting a thing to think about, when we all know that we don’t have a choice but to drink water and for most of us where to get it.

On a different note…As we are all buying mineral water in our droves, whether it’s with added flavors, electrolytes or in a fancy bottles to put your cucumber in, it turns out that the best way to get positive energy into your body is to sim-ply add a couple of semi precious gemstones to your glass.

A man called Dr. Masaru Emoto wrote a the-ory called ‘The Hidden Messages in Water’, that highlights the fact that water can absorb and store different energies. We know that we are approximately made of 70% water, so of course drinking it is essential for us to live. Water coming through our pipes goes through chemical cleansing and heating and rapid cooling which can change its positive properties, and in turn picking up negative energy. It also damages the minerals that are within the water that naturally that make it so good for us in that aspect too. When adding crystals and semiprecious stones to the water that emit positive vibrations, they add that into the water too and energize it. By adding these stones to your water they positively energize it so that your body can



absorb it. Apparently, drinking your water in this way can reduce the chances of suf-fering from headaches, dried skin and skin elasticity as well as helping your muscles keep energized too.

All in all I had never thought about my wa-ter in this way I was more worried about the chemicals that they had used to filter out my pee and turn it into drinking water. But being able to simply add some pretty stones into my water, to help clear my head and my skin sounds like a photographic opportunity to show off my tasty water.

Bottoms up.

All gems are from the Enchanted Alchemists

BOOKS

Cookbook ReviewSuperfood Snacks by Julie Morris

by Rebecca Stratton

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This is a wonderful little book that caught my eye whilst I was shopping in a well known wholesalers. It’s written by Julie Morris who I discovered from the cover is a New York Times best seller with two previous books.

Like many of us I am always toying the line between being virtuous and stuffing my face, so this seemed like a good book to re-place some of the naughty snacks with lower sugar, healthier choices!

The book starts with an introduction to su-perfoods; what they are, what they do for your body, and how best to use them. I per-sonally found this part of the book a real-ly interesting read, and the author is very in-depth with all of the ingredients. Handy conversion charts and substitutions guides also appear in the back of the book.

Chapters include Handfuls, spoonables, spreads and dips. candies and chocolate, frozen treats and kid snacks.

Beautiful pictures accompany delicious sounding recipes. The ones that immediate-ly caught my eye include Mango Chai Pud-ding, Wasabi Edamame Hummus, Chocolate Cherry Goji Bars, Watermelon Pizza, Staw-berry Peach Crisp and Secret Mint Chip Ice Cream.

The first recipe I made from the book was Cookie Dough Protein Bites. A heavenly mix of dates, nut butters, dried berries and chocolate chips. Quickly blended and rolled into truffle sized balls. They tasted abso-lutely amazing, and not at all healthy (which ticked all the boxes for me!).

I loved the idea of adding more plant based, raw, nutritious food to my diet and this book was definitely an easy and fun way to start. Some of the ingredients might be a little tricky to locate, but imagine they would be found at a health food shop. I look forward to trying more recipes in the book and would definitely recommend if you are looking for healthier alternatives to the naughty treats in your life!

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TRAVEL

by Gillian Balcombe

In the midst of the winter chill and all those comforting recipes, I’m bringing some sun-shine back for us all. Earlier this year, I was lucky enough to spend ten days in Israel with my cousin, both in the central part of the country in Herzliya, near Tel Aviv, and in the south at Ein Bokek on the Dead Sea, the lowest point on the planet, shared with Jordan.

I watched the lights on the opposite side of the sea, enjoying the beautiful mountainous scenery and wondered about the people who were looking back. And yes there was plen-ty of sunshine, and amazing scenery, and the joy of floating in the mineral-rich Dead Sea, the water’s edge lined with the most gorgeous salt crystal formations. Hence the biblical story of Lot’s wife turning into a pil-lar of salt. But beware – in the summer you can only go floating early in the morning or in the evening, when the water isn’t exactly tepid, because in the middle of the day the water temperature climbs so high that it can kill you.

So thinking of getting up for an early morn-ing dip brought me to that wonderful Israeli tradition – breakfast. Yes, I hear you say, we eat breakfast everywhere in the world. But not like this you don’t

The Israeli breakfast is humungous, copious, enormous, enough to set you up for the en-tire day and then some, and it will have your eyes out on stalks. Nowadays it is served in this way in the hotels, with pale imitations available in the innumerable cafés and res-taurants that have sprung up in the cities and along the coast.

As with so many things, it has its roots in an agricultural society. Just as we had to get up at around five in the morning for a Dead Sea dip, fuelled with a cup of coffee, a glass of water and a piece of fruit, because of the extreme heat, so the farming communi-ties on the kibbutzim throughout Israel that provided the country and the export mar-ket with fruits and vegetables, flowers and crops started their day at around three or four in the morning, to avoid working in the intense heat of the day. Similarly fuelled, they were out picking peaches, ploughing furrows, tending animals, planting seeds and collecting eggs (not to mention mucking out the animal houses!) as early as possible. They would finish their morning tasks be-fore the heat of the day made working out of doors virtually impossible and, ravenous from their endeavours, they would all gather in the communal dining room for a well de-served breakfast cum brunch.

An Israeli Institution


Fruit, dried fruit and cereals would be served, along with all manner of cheeses, breads, salads and eggs. Some communities added smoked or pickled fish. Now these breakfasts were abundant and filling, wor-thy of a hardworking kibbutznik or volun-teer, but the breakfasts that the hotels serve have taken the tradition to a whole new level.Returning from our early morning dip, we were treated to an absolute feast for the eyes I’m going to let the photos do most of the talking, but there were about a dozen dif-ferent stations catering for every breakfast taste imaginable.

Delicious freshly baked artisan breads and rolls, viennoiserie and pastries. Huge bowls of prepared fresh fruit to mix with your chosen yoghurt, labneh (a type of strained yoghurt, often served with chopped dill or chopped olives) or cereal. A wide variety of cereals, with dried fruits to go with them. Preserves and honeys and jams and halva (a dense, sweet confection made with honey and almonds, among other things) and muf-fins and cakes. At least four different kinds of olives, Is-raeli chopped salad, sliced cucumber, pep-pers, tomatoes, avocado, bean sprouts, al-falfa – you name it, there it was. Tuna salad and egg mayonnaise, pickled and salt her-ring, smoked salmon and smoked macker-el. A cheeseboard absolutely crammed with different varieties of hard and soft cheeses. Feta, mozzarella, little glasses of labneh with za’atar (a traditional Middle Eastern spice blend) and olive oil. Pots of a custard resem-bling pannacotta, with fruit compote. And that’s just the cold selection.

There were two chefs out at the egg station every morning, their sole mission in life to tempt the guests with eggs any which way. Omelette, madam? Certainly – with mush-rooms, cheese, herbs, peppers? Fried eggs,

scrambled eggs, boiled eggs, delicious shak-shuka (the spicy Israeli variation on Huevos Rancheros), cheese blintzes, pancakes – the list goes on and I’m absolutely sure I’ve for-gotten something!

Well, if breakfast is the most important meal of the day, as we are constantly told, the original kibbutzniks and now these hotels have certainly taken the message to heart. And the main problem? What on earth do you choose? But no problem, in fact – it will all be there again tomorrow!


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Photo Credits

Theo’s Pumpkin Pie© Theo Michaels

Pork Soup© Philip Bower Modenough

Raw Pies© Alison Matthews

Gemma Speekman© Manzes.com© Alfie Watts on Pinterest

December at the Allotment© Emma de Sousa

An Israeli Institution©Gillian Balcombe

Cookbook Review© Superfood Snacks by Julie Morris

Matt Philips© Kuna George

Jo Farren© Gordana Sermek

Roz Lishak© Lisa Scott

www.cottonandpearl.com

1 bread bag £11.99 - on page 30

1 set of 6 grey napkins £30 - on all pages with the plates and page 67

3 hanging cotton herb pots £18.50 each - on page 67

1 medium wooden bowl £20 - front cover

1 large wooden board £30 - seen first on page 15

1 Cirro mugs (set of 4) £36 - on page 9

1 Cirro side plates (set of 4) £30 - mainly on pages 42

1 Polka tea cup and saucer (set of 4) £75 - on pages 3 and 39

1 Polka bowls (set of 4) £32 - on page 29

1 Cocoon tumblers (set of 4) £36 - on page 62

Enchanted Alchemistswww.enchantedalchemists.comRose QuartzCitrineHematite

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