C I T I Z E NW O R L D T R AV E L L E R

Edition One

Visiting “Bulgaria’s UFO”

The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

A Step Back in Time: Bulgaria’s Medieval Capital 0 4

C O N T E N T S

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A Library in the Heart of the Palace 3 2

Citizen is a travel magazine, which focuses on showcasing some of the best kept travel destinations and hidden sites from all over the world. Our goal is to present stories in an informative and entertaining manner, balanced with a breathtaking selection of high quality images. We plan on covering locations spanning far and wide, however,

our inaugural issue centres solely on the hidden gems of Europe. We hope you enjoy

the first edition of Citizen magazine.

J O E L S E X T Y | E D I T O R

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A step back in time: Bulgaria’s Medieval Capital

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Originally the historical capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, Veliko Târnovo is one of Bulgaria’s most visited tourist destinations – and deservedly so.

One of the oldest towns in the country, with a history dating back 5,000 years, Veliko Târnovo was the heart of the Bulgarian Empire between the 12th and 14th centuries. Not only was it considered the strongest Bulgarian fortification during this time, it was also the political, religious, cultural and economic centre of the empire. Following the empire’s medieval glory days, Veliko Târnovo had fallen to the Ottoman Empire by the end of the 14th century, and remained under their rule until the city was liberated by Russia in 1877. Today, despite having a population of only 70,000 people, the city has become a thriving hub for the arts and culture, in part due to its status as a student city.

ONE OF THE OLDEST TOWNS IN THE

COUNTRY, WITH A H ISTORY DATING

BACK 5 ,000 YEARS

I M A G E The ruins of Tsavarets Fortress

This rich and important history is part of what makes Veliko Târnovo such an alluring destination to visit. Walking down the charming cobblestone road of Ulitsa Gurko, Veliko Târnovo’s oldest street, one travels backwards in time 500 years. Perhaps one of the most notable examples of Ottoman architecture in Europe, rows of houses are cautiously perched along the valley walls, looking down onto the Yantra River, which snakes throughout the entire city. At the heart of the valley, sits the Boris Denev State Art Gallery, surrounded by river on both sides, and only accessible on foot via a lone, narrow bridge. Named after a famous local artist, the compact gallery boasts a respectable collection of around 5000 pieces of work from a wide range of well-known Bulgarian artists. Directly opposite the Gallery, it is impossible to miss the towering black figure of the Asenevtsi Monument, a nostalgic reminder of the country’s wealth and power during the medieval ages. Built in 1985, the sword pointing skyward represents the power of the Asen dynasty, and the four horsemen which flank it symbolize four different kings during this medieval era. While at the statue, it is worth taking a moment to look back up at the rows of old Ottoman houses and appreciate the city from an entirely different perspective.

With all of its endless charm and cute houses, the jewel of Veliko Târnovo is without a doubt Tsavarets Fortress, perched on the hill of the same name. Once a medieval stronghold stretching far along the picturesque hillside of the small Bulgarian city, the Fortress is largely made up of ruins today. Originally the home of over twenty-two churches and a grand

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palace, there is all but one lone church overlooking the ruins today. Rebuilt during the 1970s and 80s on the remains of an old Christian church, The Cathedral of The Holy Ascension has become a popular tourist attraction, in part due to its modern surrealist frescoes, depicting important moments in Bulgaria’s medieval history. The cathedral isn’t the only thing worth visiting though – the eerie ruins of the medieval palace have undergone significant reconstruction over the last few years, with many areas accessible for the public to explore.

The fortress is even more of a treat at nighttime – although the grounds are closed to the public, if you are lucky you may be able to catch the stunning “Sound and Light” show, which typically runs at least once a week with no set schedule. The show bathes the fortress in a rainbow of colours, as dramatic music, chiming church bells, lights, and lasers are synchronized to depict the rise and fall of the Second Bulgarian Empire. The entire production is a hugely impressive and unique spectacle, and although the prime viewing area is ticketed, there are plenty of other vantage points throughout the city, where one can enjoy the show without charge.

As the city is quite small and not hugely popular with foreign tourists yet, there is not a lot in the way of accommodation.

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THE ENTIRE PRODUCTION IS A

HUGELY IMPRESS IVE AND UNIQUE

SPECTACLE

Thankfully though, there are enough options available at a very reasonable price. For budget travellers, Hostel Mostel is absolutely unbeatable in location and value for money. Comfortable private or dormitory rooms are always available and there are plenty of spacious indoor and outdoor areas perfect for meeting other travellers. Breakfast and a hearty traditional Bulgarian dinner is included in the price for each day of your stay, which is especially convenient for travellers needing to unwind and relax after hours of exploring.

If you’re just looking to have a relaxing stroll around the town, why not check out one of the city’s walking tours, which are predominantly run by members of the town’s student population. The guides are thoroughly witty and entertaining and the tour is well thought out and provides useful insight into some of the city’s oldest buildings, and some of its stunning street art.

Veliko Târnovo is also quite a good base to visit a lot of other great locations nearby. In particular, the abandoned Buzludzha Monument is an absolute must see, and it is easy to find other travellers at your hostel eager to make the trip out there. Other noteworthy nearby sites to visit include: the beautiful Shipka Memorial Church, the futuristic Monument to 1300 Years of Bulgaria in Shumen, and the Krushuna Waterfalls.

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HOSTEL MOSTEL IS ABSOLUTELY

UNBEATABLE IN LOCATION AND

VALUE FOR MONEY

I M A G E Charming Ottoman houses along Ulitsa Gurko

The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

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Italy’s northwestern port city of Genoa is often overlooked as a tourist destination by even the most well seasoned travellers – while the city boasts an intriguing history, and some highly impressive old buildings, at first glance there are not a lot of obvious sites for tourists to visit.

Originally opened in 1851, the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno is one the biggest cemeteries in Europe, and is the final resting place of thousands of people from all over Italy. What makes the cemetery so impressive, however, is not its size, but its ornate and over the top funereal sculptures, and its orderly and incredible beautifully kept crypts. It could be easy to compare the monumental cemetery to an ancient library, untouched by time.

I M A G E Burial vaults line a winding corridor

The long winding corridors are so tranquil and deserted, yet every room is a trove of treasures waiting to be explored. Everything has been maintained in pristine condition, and yet there are no visitors to marvel at the outstanding beauty. Vaults line every corridor inside the grand complex, each marked with a bouquet of multicoloured fake flowers, which cut through the bleak grey surroundings. However, each row of vaults is completely different to the next. It is a truly unique place to stroll through in silent wonderment, as each room promises something new to take in and appreciate.

The impressive sculptural pieces which inhabit the cemetery are impeccably detailed works of art, present on every tombstone. During the 19th century, Genoa was a major cultural hub within Italy, and thus the cemetery attracted an affluent bourgeoisie who desired to create long-lasting memorials to remember their work and accomplishments. They established the tradition of funereal sculptures, often depictions of themselves, to be placed on their tombs. Significant sculptors with work in the cemetery include Leonardo Bistolfi and Edoardo Alfieri, and perhaps the most notable grave, is that of Constance Lloyd, Oscar Wilde’s wife.

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I M A G E An immaculately kept crypt on the upper level of the cemetery

A few of the cemetery’s monumental funereal sculptures I M A G E S

It is hardly surprising that the cemetery is completely devoid of visitors – cemeteries aren’t typically marketed as tourist destinations, or fun places to visit, however, it is a shame that such a wonderfully well-kept museum of vaults and sculptures remains largely unknown outside of Genoa. On the other hand though, it’s also something to be thankful for, as hordes of loud tourists and amateur photographers would undoubtedly ruin the hauntingly peaceful atmosphere.

Genoa may not be at the top of the list of places to visit in Italy for a lot of people, however, any lover of history or beautiful architecture and sculptural work should seriously consider paying the city a visit. The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno is a mesmerizingly beautiful untouched gem that is absolutely worth your time.

I T IS A SHAME THAT SUCH A WONDERFULLY

WELL-KEPT MUSEUM OF VAULTS AND SCULPTURES

REMAINS LARGELY UNKNOWN OUTSIDE OF GENOA

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Visiting “Bulgaria’s UFO”

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Two hours south of the picturesque town of Veliko Târnovo is a hidden treasure which dates back to a recent period in Bulgaria’s past – a period which is often preferred to remain forgotten.

The Buzludzha monument, located on the historic peak of the same name, was constructed by the Bulgarian Communist Party in the 1970s and opened officially on 23 August 1981. Officially named the House Monument of the Bulgarian Communist Party, the structure commemorated the events of 1891, when a group of socialists, led by Dimitar Blagoev assembled around the peak to secretly form an organized socialist movement that led to the founding of the Bulgarian Social Democratic Party, a predecessor to the Bulgarian Communist Party.

The Buzludzha monument is characterized by a 70 metre high tower, and its iconic grey circular dome, which is often compared to a UFO. Its Brutalist architectural style was once common to many government buildings and structures during the height of the communist era, however, today the style has become much more of a rarity as the nation continues to move forward and away from this past. With nothing else man made in sight, barring a few wind turbines sporadically placed along the Bulgarian hillside, the stark, futuristic figure of “Bulgaria’s UFO” looks startlingly out of place amongst the green plains and rocky mountains its surrounded by. Cautiously perched on top of the historic peak, it looks like a spaceship has literally crash landed into the heart of rural Bulgaria.

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The historical Buzludzha peak and the monument which shares its name

I M A G E

I M A G E Horses shelter under the dome to escape the elements

I M A G E Inside the decaying dome

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THE MOST V ISUALLY SPECTACULAR

ABANDONED STRUCTURE IN THE WORLD

Given the building’s grand scale and ingenious architecture, it is hardly surprising that the construction cost what is today equal to $35 million Bulgaria lev (or almost €20 million). However, although a large sum of money was poured into the construction, the building was only open for less than ten years, before the collapse of communism in Bulgaria in 1989. In one sense, it is a shame that such a magnificent and unique piece of architecture was not maintained as a historical site

following Bulgaria’s transition to democracy, however, the abandoned Buzludzha monument certainly still has a lot of charm to it as a rotting communist shrine. Due to its status as perhaps the most visually spectacular abandoned structure in the world, it has become a cult tourist destination for many urban explorers from around the globe.

A view through shattered “ruby” starsI M A G E

Today, the main entrance to the structure is locked and boarded shut by the Bulgarian government due to concerns over safety, however, this isn’t enough to deter travellers eager to explore inside. Thankfully, there is always at least one unofficial entrance, which typically may involve scaling through a small gap on your stomach. Government authorities occasionally visit the site to hole up these makeshift entrances, however, when one disappears, another one is quickly created by local guides or by travellers desperate to catch a glimpse of the remnants of Bulgaria’s forgotten past.

Once you’ve made your way inside, you will immediately notice that the interior of the building is almost as stunning as the exterior. Remnants of a beautifully constructed mosaic line the walls of the dome, depicting the faces of communist revolutionaries Marx, Lenin and Engels and a giant, decorative communist symbol marks the centre of the partially collapsed ceiling. The entire structure is littered with debris and covered in graffiti, yet a lot of the artwork is surprisingly still in relatively good condition, and thus it is not difficult get a sense of just how spectacular the inside of the monument would have looked in its prime.

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REMNANTS OF A BEAUTIFULLY CONSTRUCT-

ED MOSAIC L INE THE WALLS OF THE DOME

I M A G E “Bulgaria’s UFO”

A dying communist relic I M A G E

Following a dim passageway from the main room, you will eventually get to an old shaft which leads to a ladder to a stairwell ascending to the very top of the tower part of the monument. This section of the building is in complete darkness, and is almost impossible to climb without a strong torchlight. Those brave enough to venture up the rusted stairs are rewarded with a stunning panorama of the Balkan Mountains, best viewed through what is left of the building’s red glass communist stars. Interestingly, these stars were one of the first things to go following the structure’s closure, as looters initially thought the glass to be made of valuable ruby.

Although the iconic building has fallen into a state of disrepair, there has been renewed interest over the last few years to restore it to its former glory. These plans focus on renovating the main auditorium to its original grandeur, and converting the structure into a national history museum. Hopefully these plans go ahead, however, if they don’t, it is definitely worth making the trip to visit this dying communist relic before it is too late, as it is guaranteed to be a surreal and unforgettable experience.

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A Library in the Heart of the Palace

A common fear for a lot of travellers is that they will often overbook their stay in certain places, which tends to always result in them not enjoying their time overseas as much as they should.

A lot of people end up spending the day in the hotel, while they miss out on some of the best sites a city may have to offer. If all of your research leaves you clutching at straws, a smart option, particularly for those in Europe, is to seek out a city’s major library, as they typically boast beautiful, old interiors and incredible collections of rare antique books.

Due to their cultural status as places which demand silence and respect, it is unsurprising that they are typically not the first place most travellers would consider visiting when spending time in a foreign city. Because of this fact, visits to such sites are usually stress free, as you don’t have to compete with other tourists to get the best vantage point. Often a library is the perfect place to visit after a few busy days spent seeing all the major tourist destinations a city may have to offer.

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Located in the heart of The Hofburg, the former imperial palace, The Austrian National Library is the largest library in Austria, and has a collection of over 7.4 million items and boasts four museums, including a globe museum and the largest Papyrus collection in the world. While the origins of the library date back to the middle 14th century, this permanent home for the library in the Hofburg palace was established in the early 18th century. While all of the museums and collections the library has to offer are certainly worth perusing, the main draw card is the absolutely stunning Prunksaal or “State Hall” – the central structure of the library.

Designed by Johann Bernhard Fischer von Erlach, renowned for his beautiful baroque architecture, building of the Prunksaal first began in 1723, and was finished in 1726. However, although the structure was completed in 1726, the work on the interior continued until 1730.

It is clear that a lot of time and effort was put in to the painting and decorating of the interior, because it truly is a baroque masterpiece.

3 5The State Hall of the Austrian National Library I M A G E

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Stunning frescoes and decorative gold ornaments line the interior of the libraryI M A G E

As soon as you enter the building, colourful frescoes depicting topics of the world and war illuminate the ceiling, heavily contrasting the images of heaven and peace present in the rear wing. Beautifully portrayed on the interior of the dome at the centre of the hall is the apotheosis of Charles VI and the allegorical history of the construction of the library. Beneath the dome lies a circle of marble statues of emperors with the statue of emperor Charles VI in its centre.

Flanked by these statues are four beautiful old globes, created by the Italian cartographer, Vincenzo Coronelli. To bring it all together, patterned marble lines the floor, and gold ornaments combine with the dark timber bookshelves to create a beautifully balanced baroque masterpiece.

COLOU R FU L FR ES COES DEP IC T ING TOPICS OF

TH E WOR LD AND WAR ILLU MIN ATE

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W R I T T E N B Y J O E L S E X T Y