Colored Hair Care

7/21/2019 Colored Hair Care

http://slidepdf.com/reader/full/colored-hair-care 1/62

Symposium- HairDisorders

Ni na Madnani,Kaleem Khan1

ABSTRACT

The hair cosmetic

industry has

undergone a

revolutionary

change over the last

two decades. The

focus has

dramatically veered

from merely

cleaning to repair,

increasing the

tensile strength,reducing oxidative

damage, and

stimulating growth.

Newer shorter

procedures to make

hair look naturally

more lustrous,

smooth, and

manageable have

evolved. Specialized

grooming products

have been

formulated to

cleanse, calm, and

condition the hair,

and are tailored for

dierent hairtypes,

for example, dry,

drydamaged, oily,

colored, and gray

hair. !ther products

are formulated to

"aircosmetics

"indu%a National

tal, &ahim, &umbai,

adnani(s Skin and

linic, )olaba,

ai, *ndia

ss for correspondence

na &adnani,

indu%a National

tal, -eer Savarkar

&ahim // /'0,

ai, *ndia.

madnani2gmail.com

mailto:[email protected]

mailto:[email protected]



alter the color or

structure of the hair

shaft, for example,

hair dyes,

perming3relaxing.

"air sprays and

waxes3gels, can alterthe 4lift( of the hair

shaft. +lthough

dermatologists are

experts in managing

scalp and hair

diseases, the

esthetic applications

of newer cosmetic

therapies still remain

elusive. This article

attempts to 5ll the

lacunae in our

knowledge of haircosmetics and

esthetic procedures

relevant in today(s

rapidly changing

beautyenhancing

industry, with

special emphasis on

the *ndian scenario

for chemical and

4natural( hair

products.

Key words:)osmetics, hair, hairdye, herbal,lanthionization

INTRODUCTION

+

4healthy(

head of

hair isdescribe

d as hair

that has

luster, is

smooth,

long and

silky,

bouncy,

with

good

volume,

and with

no

evidenc

e of

balding.6'7 To

achieve

this, the

haircare

industry

has

provided

us with

a



plethora

of

products

to

beautify

,

enhance

,

strength

en, and

4nourish(

our

tresses.

&ost of

the

products

work at

the

cuticle

level of

the

exposed

hair

shaft. +

few can

enter

the

cortex.

Some

hair

procedu

res like

coloring,

perming

,

straight

ening,

and the

like,

result in

structur

aldamage

.

Speciali

zed

products

then

have to

be used

to repair

and

restore

8if

possible

9 the

natural

hair

integrity

. "air

dressing

has

evolved

from

%ust

cutting,

to

altering

the

color,

texture,

and

4health(

of the

hair.

:rizzy

hair can

be

straight

ened

and

straight

hair can

be

curled.

;nderst

anding

the

Access this artice o!i!e

"uic# Respo!se Code: $e%site:

www.i%dvl.com

DOI:

&'()&'*+'*,-.*/*(&&.,*)

structur

al

compon

ents is

essentia

http://www.ijdvl.com/

http://www.ijdvl.com/



l to

underst

anding

4hair

care(.

STRUCTUR0AND1H2SICA3CHARACT0RISTICSO4HAIR

"ealthy

hair is

pigment

ed,

smooth,

glossy,

and

<exible

yet

strong,

with the

ability to

withstan

d

shearing

forces.

The hair

gloss

depends

upon

the

smooth

layering

of the

cuticle,

while

thestrength

depends

on the

integrity

of the

cortex,

which is

made

up of

'=>

hard

keratin

8skin

contains

?>

keratin9.

"air

cosmeti

cs act

on the

part of

the hair

shaft

that

pro%ects

beyondthe

scalp

surface.

The hair

consists

of a

cortex

surroun

ded by a

multilay

ered

complexcuticle

with3wit

hout a

central

medulla.

The

cuticle

has a

very

importa

nt role

to play

in

regulati

ng the

entry

and exit

of

chemica

ls3water



to and

from the

cortex.

*t

provides

protecti

on from

external

environ

mental

factors,

and

when

intact,

keeps

the hair

surface

smoothand

glossy.

The

cuticle

is six to

eight

layers

thick

and

closely

adherent to the

inner

cortical

layer of

the hair

shaft. *t

is

damage

d in

procedu

res that

re@uire

disruptio

n of the

cortex,

such as,

bleachin

g,

coloring,

and



5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

perming

. The

individu

al

cuticularcells are

made

up of

proteins,

lipids,

and

polysacc

harides.

The

cells are

colorless

and

arrange

d in an

overlapp

ing, roof

tilelike

pattern,

providin

g for an

impenet

rable

barrierto

external

environ

mental

damage

. The

open

ends of

the

overlapp

ing tiles

are

directed

away

from the

scalp,

toward

the

growing

tip. The

ad%acent

hair

grows

and

moves

outward

in

relation

to each

other.

This

arrange

ment

facilitate

s the

lifting

up of

dirt andscales,

helping

for easy

removal.6?7 The

cells

overlap

such

that

only

one

sixth of

each

surface

is

exposed

. The

outermo

st layer

of cells

forming

the

cuticle

is called

the

epicuticl

e, a

hydroph

obic

layer,

providin

g for the



5rst line

of

defense

against

water.

*mmedia

tely

below is

the +

layer,

which is

high in

cysteine

content.

The thiol

groups

of

ad%acentcysteine

residues

undergo

oxidatio

n to

form

disul5de

bonds.

This

cross

linkage

confers

structur

al

strength

and

rigidity

to the

cuticle.

The

subse@u

ent

layers

have

progress

ively

less

cystine

content

and

correspo

ndingly

less

rigidity.

The A

layer or

the

exocutic

le lies

immedia

tely

below,

followed

by the

endocuti

cle. The

endocuti

cle has

the least

cystinecontent

and is

much

softer.

S'//+B

is an

importa

nt

protein

compon

ent of

the

endocuti

cle, and

is

released

during

harsh

chemica

l

procedu

res

resulting

in

instabilit

y of the

hair

structur

e.6B7 *t is

this

layer

that



absorbs

water

and

swells

up,

allowing

for

change

is the

physical

properti

es of

hair.

:inally,

the

cellular

membra

necomplex

8)&)9

separat

es each

cell from

the one

below.

'C

methylei

cosanoic

acid

8'C

&1+9 is

an

importa

nt lipid

compon

ent of

this

hydroph

obic

layer. *n

many

ways,

the

cuticle

is

similar

to the

stratum

corneu

m of the

epiderm

is. +n

intact,

well

organize

d cuticle

is

represe

ntative

of

healthy

hair.

The

cortex

lies

immedia

telybeneath

the

cuticle

and

forms

the

ma%or

compon

ent of

human

hair. *t

consistsof

fusiform

spindle

cells

approxi

mately

'//

microns

long,

arrange

d

longitudi

nally.

1ach

spindle

cell has

micro5b

rils and

macro5

brils



within a

cystine

rich

matrix.

The

cells are

held

together

by an

intercell

ular

substan

ce and

have

complex

keratins

numberi

ng ''D.$isul5de

bonds

between

the

cysteine

residues

within

the

cortex

are the

stronges

t and

structur

ally the

most

importa

nt bonds

that

hold the

keratin

proteins

together

. They

are

responsi

ble for

the

ultimate

shape of

the hair.

These

bonds

have to

be

dissolve

d during

the

procedu

res that

change

the

shape of

the hair.

"ydroge

n bonds

exist as

weaker

bonds

that can

stretchduring

simple

wetting

of hair.

The -an

derEaal

forces

and

)oulom

bic

interacti

ons

8salt

links9

are theHair

cosmetics

weaker

bonds

present.

The

cells of

the

cortex

contain

melanos

omes

that are

responsi

ble for

the

color of

the hair.



"air

color is

almost

complet

ely

dictated

by the

presenc

e of

either

pheomel

anins

8red9 or

eumelan

ins

8brown3

black9

within

the

melanos

omes.

*nteresti

ngly,

the

melanos

omes

are

more

densely

arrange

d in the

outer

layers of

the

cortex

than at

the

central

core.

The

medullais at the

core of

the hair

5ber. *t

is highly

variable

in

human

hair and

is made

up of

specializ

ed cells

with air

spaces

in

between

. *t is

rich in

glycoge

n and

citrulline

. *t is

present

only in

the thick

dark

hair of

the

scalp

and is

lost in

the

aging

gray

hair. *ts

function

is not

known.

The

structur

e of

unproce

ssed

hair is

perfectl

y

designe

d and its

outermost layer

remains

smooth,

well

protecte

d, dries

@uickly

when

wetted,



and

resists

diusion

of water

into the

cortex.67

This

maintai

ns the

structur

al

integrity

.

$0ATH0RIN6O4HAIR

The hair

surface

in

untreate

d hair

has a

p" of

.= to

=.=. This

acidic

p" helps

to keep

the

cuticular

cells

closely

opposed

to the

cortex.

$amage

to the

cuticle

results

instructur

al

changes

to the

hair

shaft

over a

period

of time

and

constitu

tes hair

weatheri

ng. +s

the

scalp

hair of

women

grows

over

long

anagen

periods,

the hair

is

exposed

to

several

years of

cumulati

ve

damage

from

external

factors

6:igure

'a7. The

contribu

ting

factors

include

chronic

ultraviol

et

exposur

e,

excessiv

e

wetting,

repeate

d harshchemica

l

procedu

res

6:igure

'b7, hot

combs,

blow

drying,



and

even

simple,

but

repeate

d

activitie

s, such

as rough

combing

and

brushing

.6=,07 Foss

of

cuticle

or

lifting

up of

the

cuticular

plates



7ure &: 8a a!d %9

aturay weathered

ir $eathered

owi!7 cosmetic

ocedures



5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

exposes

the

cortex

that is

thenreadily

suscepti

ble to

damage

resulting

in split

ends

8trichopt

ilosis9

and

frayed

tips.

Eeather

ed hair

loses

moistur

e more

rapidly

than

normal

hair,

and

hence,

looks

dull and

dry.6D7

Eeather

ing is

not a

common

occurren

ce in

men

8except

thosewith

long

hair

styles9

as their

hair are

constant

ly cut,

which

helps

the

damage

8if any9

to be

trimmed

o.

"ofbaue

r

Tsamba

os,

Spycher,

and

Trueb

have

reported

that the

excessiv

e

weatheri

ng seen

in areas

of

androge

netic

alopecia

is due to

a low

threshol

d to

damage

caused

by

changes

of

ac@uired

pili

annulati.6C7

1nviron

mental

dust,dirt,

sebum

accumul

ation,

and hair

products

build up

on the

hair



making

it sticky,

dull, and

often

unmana

geable.

This is

termed

as a

4bad

hair

day(.

)opper

from tap

water in

copper

water

pipes

gets

deposite

d on the

hair

during

washing

. Aeing

a

catalyst,

it

liberates

free

radicals

and

causes

the hair

to

become

dull and

damage

d.

:ortunat

ely in

*ndia,we do

not

have

copper

water

pipes.

Eater

from

wells

also has

a very

high

mineral

content,

which

can get

deposite

d on the

hair

shaft.

"air

washed

with

such

water

can also

damage

the hair.

C3ASSI4ICATION O4HAIRCOS50TICS

The

various

compon

ents of

hair atthe

molecul

ar level

regulate

the

eGcacy

of

various

hair

cosmeti

c

products

,

allowing

their

classi5c

ation as

follows

Cate7or

y &:

Those



that

work on

the

exocuticl

e

Cate7or

y /:

Those

that

work on

the

cortex or

alter

the

structu

ral

integrit

y of

the

hair

shaft.

Cate7o

ry &

These

hair

cosmeti

cs

include

shampo

os,

conditio

ners,

serums,

hair

sprays,

waxes,

gels,

mousses

.

Shampoos

Tradition

ally, the

beauty

of *ndian

ladies

was

measure

d by the

length

of their

hair and

many

had

plaited

hair

reaching

upto

their

knees.

&aintain

ing a

good

scalp

and hair

hygiene

was a

very

importa

nt part

to

healthy

hair. The

concept

of hair

cleanser

s used

in

ancient

*ndia

gave

rise to

the

word

4shampo

o(

8*ndia

)hampo

9. "air

cleanser

s weremade by

boiling

soapnut

8HeethaI

Sapindus

Mukoros

si) with

*ndian

goosebe

$etergents

+nionic

)ationic

+mphoteric

Nonionic

Natural



rries

8+amlaI

Phyllant

hus

emblica)

and

shikakai

(Acacia

concinna

) in

water

and

using

the

strained

water to

wash

the hair.

The

other

option

was

using a

paste of

:uller(s

earth

8multani

matti9

on the

scalp

and

rinsing it

o with

water.

The

:uller(s

earth

would

adsorb

the

grease,

whichwas

then

rinsed

o.

These

natural

cleanser

s left

the hair

dry, andHair

cosmetics

hence,

people

moved

onto

using

shampo

os

formulat

ed with

better

conditio

ning

properti

es.

Shampo

os are

formulat

ed for

cleansin

g the

hair.

+lthoug

h

historica

lly, that

was

their

only

function

, today

specializ

ed

bene5ts

are

expecte

d,

almostmagical,

where

shampo

os are

expecte

d to give

shine,

volume,

easy

:oaming

agents)onditioners

Thickeners3opaci5ers

+dditives



combabi

lity,

protecti

on of

colored

hair

from

fading,

ultraviol

et

protecti

on, and

so on.

The

media

hype

has

been

responsi

ble for

these

heighte

ned

expectat

ions

from a

product,

which in

the past

merely

served

to clean

the hair.

+llshampoos havecertain

basicingredie

nts6J7

like 6Table '7

'. $etergent

?. :oaming agentsB. )onditioners

. Thickeners

=. !paci5ers

0. Se@u

D. p" ad%usters

C. . #reservatives

J. +dditives

Deter7e!ts

These

are

surfacta

nts that

combine

and

emulsify

and

wash o

the

grease

and dirt

8soil9.

-arious

types of

surfacta

nts are

formulat

ed to

cleanse

dierent

types of

hair

6Table

?7. The

most

popular

in use

are

sodium

Ta%e &:Co!stitue!ts o; shampoos

Fauryl3lau

reth

sulfates,

sarcosines

,

sulfosucci

nates

+mino

esters,

long chain

amino

acids

*midazolin

iums,

sultaines,

betaines

#olyoxyet

hylene



fatty

alcohols3s

orbitol

esters

Soap

bark,

agave,

soapwort

#olyoxyet

hylene

sorbitol

esters,

polyoxyet

hylene

fatty

alcohols,

alkanolam

ides Soap

nut,

acacia

concinna

Fauramin

e oxide,

lauramide

&1+,

cocamide

&1+,

cocamido

propyl

hydroxysu

ltaine,

polysorba

te ?/

:attyalcohols3e

sters

-egetable

3mineral

oils

"ydrolyze

d animal

protein

+@ueous

)ellulose

gum, guar

gum, #1K,

methylcell

ulose,

clays Non

a@ueous

!rganocla

ys,

polyethyle

nes,

trihydroxy

stearin,

fumed

silica

Natural

#lant

extracts,

almond

extract,

balm mint

oil, egg

yolk,

chamomil

e, citrus,

clove,

basil

)ollagen,

vitamins,

ceramides

, and

glutamic

acid 50A:

5ethyeico

sa!oic

acid 106:

1oyethye

!e 7yco



5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

Sur;acta!ts a!d hair types

Sur;acta!t

Amphoterics a!io!ics

A!io!ic

Catio!ic

Catio!ic amphoteric

Amphoteric

Amphoteric

laurel3la

ureth

sulfates

,

ammoni

um

lauryl3la

ureth

sulfates,

triethan

ol

amine

lauryl

sulfate,

diethan

ol lauryl

sulfate,

and

sodium

ole5n

sulfate.

+lso, a

deterge

nt, to

be very

eectiv

e in

cleansin

g the

hair,

would

also

strip

the hair

of

sebum,

leaving

them

dry.



:oaming

agents

These

are very

popular

in

shampo

os, as

historic

ally,

people

e@uate

eGcacy

with

foaming

of the

shampo

o.

Kreasy

hair will

re@uire

repeate

d

washing

with

shampo

o, until

the

shampo

o foams

properly

.

)onditio

ners

+n

eectiv

e

cleanse

r will

strip

the hair

of all

grease,

thus

leaving

it dry

and

dull.

"ence,

shampo

os

incorpor

ate

various

ingredie

nts that

can

coat thecuticle

to

improve

shine,

slip,

and

easy

combab

ility.

Thickene

rs andopaci5er

s

These

appeal

to the

aestheti

c

sensibili

ties of

the

user,

but donot add

to the

cleansin

g eect.

They

have to

be

compati

ble with

the

surfacta

nts.+lthoug

h

alkanol

amides

were

the

early

agents

used,



they

have

been

replace

d with

various

a@ueou

s and

non

a@ueou

s

agents.

The

consum

er

e@uates

thickne

ss with

a better

aestheti

c look

and

eGcacy.

Aetaine

s

combin

e with

the

anionic

surfacta

nts to

make

large

micelles

, and

also

contribu

te

electrol

yte salt

that

increases the

viscosit

y of the

product.

Se@uest

ering

agents

+

deterge

nt,

when

used

with

hardwater,

leaves a

sticky

residue

on the

surface.

This

scum

renders

the hair

dull and

unmanageable.

This is

often

seen

when

soap is

used to

cleanse

the hair.

Se@uest

ering

agentsprevent

the

formati

on of

this

scum

by

chelatin

g the

calcium

and

magnesium

ions

from

hard

water.

p"

ad%usters



$amag

ed hair

can

swell

with

alkaline

deterge

nts.

"ence,

when

formula

ting

suitable

shampo

os for

such

hair, an

acidic

p"

ad%ustm

ent is

done.

The

substan

ces

used

includes

citric

and

lactic

acid.Hair

cosmetics

+dditives

-arious

addition

al

agents

are

added

to

shampoos to

either

give

better

conditio

ning or

to term

them as

a

4natural(

or a

herbal

shampo

o.

$ependi

ng upon

the

nature

of the

deterge

nt used,

shampo

os are

targeted

for

varioushair

types.

#roper

shampo

oing

involves

wetting

the hair

complet

ely,

taking a

goodamount

of

shampo

o in the

palm

and

then

applying

it along

the

head

and

length

of hair.

"air

should

not be

piled up

on top

of the



head

before

applying

the

shampo

o as this

can lead

to

matting

of hair.6'/7

Conditio

ners

)onditio

ners

ful5ll

theneed for

hair

shaft

protecti

on and

are

agents

either

incorpor

ated

into

shampoos or

used

after

cleansin

g, on

slightly

damp

hair.

+fter a

shampo

o wash,

the

cuticles

get

slightly

lifted,

and the

hair

develop

s a

negative

charge

causing

the hair

to repel

each

other

and

appear

rough

and

uncomb

ed.

)onditio

ners

<atten

the

cuticlesand seal

the gaps

that

could

expose

the

importa

nt

cortex

to

environ

mental

damage

.

)onditio

ning

agents

incorpor

ated

into

shampo

os

8labeled

as

conditio

ning

shampo

os3 dry

hair

shampo

os3hair

fall



shampo

os9

include

mineral

oils,

vegetabl

e oils,

fatty

alcohols

3esters,

humect

ants,

hydrolyz

ed

animal

proteins,

glycerin

e,stearalk

onium

chloride,

propylen

e glycol,

silicones

8dimethi

cone,

simethic

one9,

and

natural

products

like

bees

honey

8an

emulsio

n of

proteins

sugars

and

lipids9,

vinegar,

wheat

germ

oil,

panthen

ol,

collagen

, and

placenta

.

Silicone

s have

become

very

popular

as they

provide

good

4slip(

and

luster,

and

retain

moistur

e in the

hair, but

siliconeoil is

hydroph

obic and

it does

not get

absorbe

d onto

the hair

very

easily.

Sebumis a

natural

conditio

ner for

the hair.

Ay

capillary

action,

the

excreted

sebum,

coats

only the

proximal

'.= inch

of the

hair

shaft. *t

is the

process



of

combing

that

helps to

distribut

e the

sebum

distally

and coat

the hair

evenly.

+n ideal

conditio

ner, if it

did

exist,

would

need tomatch

the

compon

ents and

natural

properti

es of

sebum.

"ence,

they

would

need to

have a

combina

tion of

free

saturate

d3unsat

urated

fatty

acids,

s@ualen

e,

choleste

rol, and

triglycer

ides.

The

practice

of using

hair oil

in *ndia

since

ancient

times is

akin to

using

conditio

ners

today.

)oconut

oil, but

not

sun<ow

er or

mineral

oil, can

penetrat

e the

hairshaft

and

reduce

protein

loss.6''7

)ommer

cially,5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

conditio

ners are

available as

rinses,

instant,

leave

on,

serums,

and

professi

onal

conditio

ners.

Hinses

or

instant

conditio

ners are

applied

to

washed



and

towel

dried

hair, left

on for

two to

5ve

minutes,

and

rinsed

o. They

serve

only to

improve

the

combabi

lity of

the hair.

Feave

on

conditio

ners are

applied

to

washed

and

dried

hair,

andremain

on till

the next

shampo

o. They

smoothe

n down

the

cuticle

and

protect

the hair

from

weatheri

ng. They

are

conveni

ent and

popular.

They

contain

cationic

deterge

nts,

water,

lipids,

and

thickene

rs. They

may be

availabl

e in thin

or thick

formulat

ions.

Their

eect is

shortlived.

Feavein

condition

ers

These

are

products

used for

curly or

unmana

geablehair

prior to

styling

or blow

drying

and on

hair that

has

been

damage

d by

chemica

l

process

es. +s

they

contain

mineral

and

vegetabl



e oils,

petrolat

um, and

silicone,

they

impart

gloss to

the hair

and trap

in

moistur

e. These

are not

suitable

for 5ne

hair.

$eepcondition

ers

#opular

as a

parlor

procedu

re,

these

are

creams

or oils

appliedand left

on for

?/ to B/

minutes,

with or

without

a

steamer

, and

then

rinsed

o. They

contain

concentr

ated

conditio

ning

agents

8protein,

@uatern

ary

ammoni

um

salts9.

They

provide

more

smoothe

ning of

the

cuticle,

and

hence,

better

gloss.

+ntihairloss

conditioners

These

actually

contain

deep

conditio

ning

agents

that seal

the split

or

frayedends to

reduce

damage

and

brittlene

ss, and

thus,

indirectl

y reduce

hair fall.

Kenerall

y

consider

ed safe

for

regular

use, few

cases of

adverse



events

like

contact

dermatit

is have

been

reported

with the

use of

both

shampo

os6'?,'B7

and

conditio

ners6''07

Shampo

os can

cause a<areup

of

childhoo

d

eczema

s.6'D7

Hair

styling

product

s

The hairindustry

has

provided

us with

numero

us

products

to use

before

or after

a

physical

hair

styling

procedu

re like

curling

with

rollers,

ironing,

back

combing

, and

the like.

These

products

help in

changin

g the

texture

of the

hair or

in

holding

the hair

in a

particul

ar stylefor long

wear.

&ost of

them

can be

washed

o with

a

shampo

o or

even

with

water.Hair

cosmetics

The

popular

products

are hair

sprays,

gels,

waxes,

pomade

s, and

mousses

.

"air

sprays35

xatives

These

are

products



in

aerosol

form,

which

when

sprayed,

create

stiness

and

4hold(

between

hair.

They are

employe

d after

styling

the hair

to 4hold(

the style

for an

extende

d

period.

The

main

constitu

ent is

polyviny

lpyrrolid

one,

which is

water

washabl

e. +n

addition

of vinyl

acetate

make

the

sprays

longer

lasting8high

hold9,

but

diGcult

to

shampo

o o.

Newer

softer

hair

sprays

contain

methacr

ylate

copolym

ers.

"air gels

These

are

useful

products

for

individu

als with

diuse

hair

thinning, as

when

applied

to the

damp

hair, can

be

styled to

give a

lift from

the

scalp,

giving a

semblan

ce of

volume.

They

also

give a

gloss to

the hair.

The

constitu

ents are

similar

to hair

sprays

and can

be used

for

4styling(

or



4sculptin

g( the

hair

6:igure

?7.

"airwaxes

These

are

availabl

e as a

wax

containi

ng

copolym

ers,

which

aresofter

and can

be

evenly

spread

over dry

hair for

styling

and can

give an

4oily(

look.

"air

mousses

These

are very

popular

because

of their

ease of

use.

+vailabl

e as a

foam in

aerosoli

zed

cans,

they

contain

a soft

copolym

er that

gives a

more

natural

look,

with less

4hold(.

#omades

and

brilliantin

e

-ery

popular

with

+frican

+merica

n people

as a

styling

aid.

These

are

products

that

contain

vegetabl

e3



4i7ure /: Hair styedwith hair 7e



5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

mineral

oils,

petrolat

um,

lanolinand

waxes,

and help

in

styling,

moisturi

zing and

conditio

ning the

hair.

They are

comedo

genic.

Arillianti

nes are

li@uid

pomade

s and

newer

formulat

ions

have

betterslip, as

they

contain

silicones

.

4ShineL

sprays

These

contain

silicones

,hydrolyz

ed

animal

proteins,

and

cationic

amino

acid

derivati

ves, and

leave a

shine

when

sprayed

on

damage

d hair.

These

are very

useful

for hair

that has

become

dry and

lusterles

s.

4"eat

protectiv

eL

products

"air

styling

treatme

nts

using

thermal

energy

caneasily

damage

the hair,

especiall

y when

wet.

Speciali

zed

products

have

been

designe

d to

address

this

particul

ar

problem

. They

contain



conditio

ning

polymer

s such

as

silicon,

petrolat

um, and

mineral

oil,

which

function

primaril

y by

forming

light

weight

5lms. These

act as

thermal

barriers

and

oer

some

degree

of

protecti

on.

4)amou<

ageL

products

#atients

with hair

loss

have a

decreas

ed

@uality

of life

8MoF9and as

treating

physicia

ns,

dermato

logists

should

address

this

aspect

of hair

loss.6'C7

Several

cosmeti

c

products

are

availabl

e to be

used by

the

individu

al to

conceal

the

alopecia

, for

example

, Toppik

8keratin

5bers9

and

"airous

e

8cellulos

e

5bers9.

These

come in

various

shades

of brown

and

black,

and can

be

sprinkle

d on the

bald

areas.

Staticelectricit

y make

the

5bers

adhere

to each

other

and the

hair on



the

scalp,

thus

eective

ly

conceali

ng the

bald

area.

Similarly

, 4cover

sticks(

made of

waxes

and

pigment

can be

used by

individu

als who

wish to

conceal

the

4gray

show(

between

two

sessions

of haircoloring

6:igure

B7.

Cate7o

ry /

These

include

hair

cosmeti

cs that

work on

the

cortex

or alter

the

structur

al

integrity

of the

hair

shaft

and

include

hair

colors,

bleachin

g

agents,

straight

ening,

and

perming

agents.

Haircosmetics

Hair

colors

outh is

represe

nted by

absence

of gray

hair.

Kraying

Temporary hair dye A, Semipermanent O#ermanent% PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP Qb Q PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP Q@ LR ) iL * R. O

4i7ure ): Depth o; pe!etratio! o; hair dyes a(

moecues o; temporary hair dyes are u!a%e to pe!

i!to the corte< %( Smaer moecues o; semi-perma!e

dyes easiy pe!etrate i!to the corte< %ut di=use out

i! the su%se>ue!t washes c( Smaer dye prec

pe!etrate i!to the corte< a!d u!der7o o<idatio! to

ar7e coored moecues that remai! withi! the corteare u!a%e to di=use out

4i7ure *: 8a a!d %9

Cosmetic camou?a7e

with a co@er-stic#:

Be;ore a!d

immediatey a;ter

appicatio!



become

s

obvious

when at

least

?/> of

hair

loses

pigment

. *n the

@uest

for

looking

young,

research

has

focused

on

providin

g us

with

several

options

for

covering

gray

hair3cha

nging

hair

color

tempora

rily or

perman

ently.

"air

coloring

molecul

es are of

dierent

sizes,

with the

largermolecul

es

mainly

getting

deposite

d on the

hair

shaft as

a

tempora

ry or

semi

perman

ent

color. *n

order for

a hair

dye to

be

termed

4perman

ent( the

molecul

es

should

be

capable

of

penetrat

ing into

the

cortex

and

remaini

ng

there.

Kradual

hair dyes

These

are

home

use

products

, which

give the

desired

color

after

several

days of

use. The

product

has to

be

applied

daily on

the hair

till the

desired



shade is

reached.

The

patient

then

stops

the

applicati

ons, but

would

need to

restart

once the

shade

starts

fading

o. The

gradual

hair

colors

contain

salts of

metals

8lead,

silver or

bismuth

9 in a

li@uid

form,

which

when

applied

to the

hair,

leave

behind

the

metallic

salts as

sul5des,

oxides,

andsuboxid

es.

)omplia

nce is

not very

good

because

of the

messine

ss of

applicati

on, but

these

are

useful

for

individu

als who

are

allergic

to para

phenyle

nediami

ne

8##$9.

The end

result is

dull hair

with a

4not

perfect(

shade of

color,

which

fades o

faster

and

re@uires

constant

reapplic

ation. *n

addition,

hair that

has

been

colored

with

these

gradual

dyes

cannotbe

sub%ecte

d to

chemica

l

perming

or

straight

ening



procedu

res.

Some

example

s of

gradual

hair

dyes

availabl

e in the

*ndian

market

are

4-egetal(

8non

##$9

and

4Kodre%

esh

ala(

8##$

containi

ng9.

Temporar

y hair

dyes

These

are

useful to

brighten

the

original

hair

shade,

to add a

tint, or

enhance

dyed

hair.

They

getwashed



5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

o with

water

and

barely

last tillthe next

hair

wash.

They

use

textile

acid

dyes

8:$)

and $)

dyes9.

Their

large

molecul

ar size,

keeps

them

outside

the

cuticle,

keeping

the

cortex

and

medulla

unaect

ed

6:igure

7.

4Silver

shampo

o( is an

example

of a

tempora

ry dye

used by

women

with all

gray

hair to

give a

silver

hair

look.

The

purple

and blue

dye

colors in

the

silver

shampo

o,

camou<

age the

dull

yellow

stain,

which

these

hair

develop

when

combine

d with

sebum

and

sweat.

Semi

permane

nt hair

dyes

These

are

water

soluble,

non

ionic,

low

molecul

ar

mixtures

of preformed

dyes,6'J7

the

number

s of

which

vary

dependi

ng on



the

shade

re@uired

. These

do not

re@uire

hydroge

n

peroxide

. They

are

usually

anthra@

uinone,

aromati

c

amines

or

aminoni

trobenz

enes,

and may

contain

up to 'C

compon

ent dyes

to

obtain

the

re@uired

shade.

The

product

is

applied

to

shampo

oed and

towel

dried

hair, left

on for?/

minutes

and

then

rinsed

o. +

conditio

ner is

used

post

shampo

oing.

The

color

gets

reduced

with

each

shampo

o and is

complet

ely

washed

o in six

to eight

shampo

os. +

patch

test is

re@uired

prior to

the use

of these

dyes.

$emi

permane

nt hair

colors

These

are

gentler

on the

hair

than the

perman

ent

colors

as they

do not

containammoni

a, and

have a

lower

concentr

ation of

hydroge

n

peroxide



8?>9 as

compare

d to

perman

ent hair

dyes

80>9.6?/7

"ence,

the

irritation

to the

scalp

and

damage

to the

hair

shaft is

reduced.

They are

eective

in

covering

gray

hair, but

not in

lightenin

g the

hair

shade.

#ermane

nt hair

dyes

#erman

ent hair

colors

are the

most

common

ly used

hair

colors,because

of their

longevit

y, ease

of use,

and

ability to

have a

range of

color

shades.

These

are also

superior

for gray

cover,

as the

result is

perman

ent and

does not

get

washed

o. This

is an

oxidatio

n

reaction

that

re@uires

the

combina

tion of

para

dyes

8para

phenyle

nediami

ne,

para

toluene

diamine,

and

para

aminoph

enol,

known

as the

primary

interme

diaries9with

hydroge

n

peroxide

6Table B7

to

liberate

oxygen.

This



process

takes

place

inside

the

cortex

and the

entry is

facilitate

d by

ammoni

a. *n

ammoni

afree

hair

dyes

this

work is

perform

ed by

other

alkaline

agents

like

sodium

carbona

te and

ethanola

mine.

The

primary

interme

diaries

are

smaller

molecul

es that

can

pass

through

the

cuticularcells.

!nce

inside

the

cortex,

they

combine

with

couplers

,Haircosmetics

*: Co!ce!tratio! o; Hydro7e! pero<ide used as a de@eoper i!

hair coors

0=ecti@ity

Used to dar#e! hair ;or same e@e o; coor

To i7hte! hair coor up to two e@es

To i7hte! hair coor up to three e@es

which

are

aniline

dyes, to

produce

the

re@uire

d colormolecul

es. +s

these

color

molecul

es are

large,

they

cannot

pass

out

through

the

cuticle,

and

remain

5rmly

bound

in the

cortex.

+

change

of

shade

from

dark to

light

and the

reverse

is

possible

. The



color

remains

in the

hair,

and a

touch

up of

roots

may be

re@uire

d after

six to

eight

weeks

dependi

ng on

the rate

of

growth.

*t is

importa

nt for

the

4touch

up(

process

to treat

only the

new

growth,

as the

older

hair

shaft

color

may

darken

due to

re

applicat

ion. +s

##$derivati

ves can

cause

allergic

reaction

s, a

patch

test is

necessa

ry

before

using a

perman

ent hair

dye. !f

late,

##$ is

being

incorpor

ated

into

henna

to give

a

deeper

color

and is

markete

d as

black

henna

(kali

mehendi

).

#erman

ent hair

colors

are

availabl

e as

li@uids,

gels,

and

creams.

+

home

use

pack

contain

s two

bottlesthat

contain

colorles

s li@uids

8hydrog

en

peroxid

e and a

primary



interme

diary in

combin

ation

with

surfacta

nts,

conditio

ner, and

so on9.

The two

are

mixed

in e@ual

proporti

on and

applied

immedi

ately to

the hair.

+ny

left

over

mixture

must be

discard

ed. The

proporti

on of

combin

ation is

''.

Some

home

use

packs

are

availabl

e in

powder

form,

whichhas to

be

reconsti

tuted

with

water.

"ere,

the

oxidizin

g agent

is either

sodium

or

potassi

um

perbora

te in

powder

ed

form.

The

5nal p"

achieve

d is CJ.

#atch

test for

semi

perman

ent and

perman

ent hair

colors

The hair

dye test

can be

an

4open(

test or

one

using

the

epicuta

neous

patch

test.

!pen

test !n

a clean

area

behind

the ear

or on

the

forearm

%ust

below

the

elbow,



the dye

mix is

applied

with a

cotton

swab

and

allowed

to dry. *f

there is

no

reaction

in C to

D?

hours,

the dye

mix can

be

safely

used on

the

scalp.

The

epicuta

neous

patch

test is

the gold

standar

d. This

is done

with ?>

##$ in

petrolat

um. The

result is

read at

?

hours. +

' to

Bindicate

s

allergy

to ##$.

Hecentl

y, an in

vitro

assay

using

patient(

s

periphe

ral

blood

mononu

clear

cells

has

been

develop

ed with

a

sensitivi

ty of

'//>.6?'7

5ad!a!ia!d Kha!

)ross

reactions

#atients

sensitiv

e to

##$

may

possibly

cross

react

withcompou

nds

listed in

Table .

Safety

regulatio

ns for

para

phenylen

ediamine

The1uropea

n

)ommis

sion

$irectiv

e ?//J

regulati

on

directs



that the

maximu

m

concent

ration

of hair

dye

substan

ces in

oxidativ

e hair

dyes

should

not

exceed

?>.6??7

This

may be

true for

hair dye

regulati

ons, but

studies

attempt

ing to

@uantify

the

percent

age of

##$ in

decorati

ve

henna

tattoos

have

shown

alarmin

g levels

varying

betwee

n '

0>.6?B,?7

Side

eects

of hair

dyes

&ost

reaction

s to hair

dye are

due to

the ##$

content.

The role

of

ammoni

a is to

facilitat

e dye

penetra

tion,

and

ammoni

afree

dyes,

althoug

h

gentler

to the

hair

shaft,

do not

prevent

##$

reaction

s. "air

dye

reaction

s most

commo

nly

present

as

allergic

or

irritant

contact

dermati

tis.

Some

patientsmay

experie

nce

photoall

ergic

dermati

tis.6?'7

$ye

induced



depigm

entation

is not

uncom

mon6?=7

and

tends to

run

along

the

hairline.

Eith

subse@

uent

exposur

es,

there

may be

a more

widespr

ead

present

ation.

"air

dyes

change

the

texture

of the

hair by

strippin

g o

the 'C

&1+

layer,

and

thus,

making

it

coarse

and

dull.##$ in

perman

ent hair

dyes

induces

apoptos

is of

cells

and

thus

contribu

tes to

hair fall.6?0,?D7

;ncom

mon

reaction

s

include

lympho

matoid

reaction

,

erythe

ma

multifor

me,6?C7

and

even

anaphyl

axis6?J7

followin

g hair

dye

applicat

ion.

"air dye

and

cancer

risk

There is

conside

rable

debate

on the

associat

ion

betwee

n the

use of

hair dye

and

develop

ment of

cancer.

*t

started

in the

'JD/s,



with the

observa

tion

that

perman

ent hair

dyes

contain

certain

chemic

als that

were

structur

ally

similar

to

aromati

c

amines

known

to

cause

bladder

cancer.6B/7 This

was

especial

ly true

for hair

dyes

manufa

ctured

before

'JC/,

when

there

were no

Ta%e ):Cross-reacti@itywith 11D

3oca a!esthetics

4ou!d i! su!scree!s shampoos a!d

cosmetic products

A!ti-tu%ercuosis dru7

4ood a!d medicatio! coora!t

semi-perma!e!t a!d perma!e!t dyes

7asoi!e a!d diese oi %apoi!t pe! i!#

Dru7s

mi!e

Haircosmetics

restricti

ons on

the

manufac

turing

process.

+fter the

;S :ood

and

$rug

+dminist

ration

8:$+9

placed

regulato

ry

guidelin

es onhair dye

formulat

ion in

'JC/,

there

has

been a

signi5ca

nt

change

in hair

dye

composi

tion.

&ost

recent

studies

and

reviews

of the

meta

analysis

do not

support

a causal

relations

hip

between

personal

hair dye

use and

bladder



maligna

ncies.6B',B?7

"oweve

r,

hairdres

sers still

remain

at a

higher

risk.6BB7

:ew

reports

link an

increase

d

incidenc

e of :ollicula

r

Fympho

ma 8a

variant

of Non

"odgkin

(s

Fympho

ma

8N"F99

in

patients

using

perman

ent hair

dyes,

but this

is again

true for

those

using

hair

dyes

prior to

'JC/.6B,B=7

+lso, it

has

been

propose

d that a

possible

genetic

variatio

n in the

N

acetyltr

anfefera

se

enzyme

may be

an

underlyi

ng

predispo

sing

factor

for

development of

N"F in

certain

groups

of

patients

applying

hair

dyes.6B07

;se of

hair

colors

does not

appear

to

increase

the risk

of

develop

ment of

breast

cancer.6BD7

*ndian

hair dyes

Several

hair

dyes are

availabl

e in

*ndia for



home

use, for

example

, Aigen,

Kodre%

"air

)olor,

F(!real

excellen

ce,

Karnier

ammoni

afree,

and for

salon

use,

Eella,

&a%irel,*noa,

and so

on. &ost

of these

have

##$ as

an

active

ingredie

nt and

sensitivi

ty

testing

is

recomm

ended

for most

of then

before

every

use.

Aigen

contains

?nitro

#

phenyle

nediami

ne

Sulfate

and

nitro!

phenyle

nediami

ne

sulfate

as ##$

derivati

ves,

with

sodium

perborat

e as the

oxidizin

g agent.

*t is

mixed

with

water

and

thenapplied.

The

percent

age of

##$ is

not

more

than

/.JC>

when

mixed.

-arious

home

use

formulat

ions

8containi

ng ##$9

are

availabl

e, some

as

surfacta

nt

based

and

some

are with

addition

al

conditio

ning



agents.

The

Kodre%

hair

color

althoug

h

labeled

as

4herbal

based(,

recomm

ends a

skin

sensitivi

ty test.

*t is a

powderformulat

ion,

which

when

mixed

with

water,

has a

##$

content

of not

more

than

'.=>. *n

this

case,

herbs

are

added

for

improvin

g the

@uality

of the

hair

6:igure

=7.

-egetabl

e dyes

+

number

of

herbal

and

+yurvedi

c dyes

are

availabl

e in

*ndia

under

various

trade

names

such as

Alack

Hose

hair dye

herbal8claims

herbal,

but

advocat

es

sensitivi

ty test9,

!ptima

"air dye

8##$

and

ammoni

afree,

but

contains

para

toluene

diamine

sulfate9,

hadi

dye

8contain

s

henna9,

-egetal

8contain

s henna

and

other

herbs9,

and

*ndus



-alley

hair

color,

among

others.

"enna

(Lawsoni

a alba),

is a

natural

organic

substan

ce,

which is

popular

in *ndia

for

decorati

ve

tempora

ry

tattoos

and for

coloring

gray

hair. The

active

ingredie

nt



is ?hydroxy ', naptha@uinone. The active

ingredient is obtained by treating the leaves with

sodium bicarbonate. *t is available as a powder that

is mixed with coee powder, and made into a paste

with black tea water, allowed to stand for a couple of

hours, and then applied to the hair. The contact time

is a couple of hours, after which the hair is washed

and shampooed. This process is useful for people

allergic to para dyes. *t is a messy process, and the

henna leaves a strong odor in the hair that lasts

several days. The end result is dry hair with an

orangered tint. The color fades gradually with

shampooing and has to be reapplied as and when

re@uired. +lthough relatively inert, bullous allergic

a!i a!d Kha!

e : 3ocay a@aia%e her%a-%ased perma!e!t hair dye co!tai!i!7 para-phe!ye!ediami!e( 8a9 8I!set9 cose up

e showi!7 the para-phe!ye!ediami!e co!te!t decaratio!



contact dermatitis 8+)$9 has been reported in a

threeyearold child.6BC7 + locally available black hair

dye by Kodre% is marketed as completely natural and

contains reetha 8soapnut9, shikakai (Acacia concinna9,

bhringra% (Eclipta prostrata), mehendi 8henna9 and

aamla 8*ndian gooseberry9. Shikakai and reetha act

as natural cleansing agents, mehendi as a natural

colorant3conditioner, and aamla as a natural hair

darkener. !ver the last few years, 4black henna( is

being used for decorative, 4instant( tattoos at events

and tourist attraction spots. These contain, in

addition to the henna, a para dye, and thus, can

cause allergic reactions. Several such cases have

been reported.6BJ7

ndi!o"era tinctoria is a natural dye that is available

for commercial use as a green powder. *t is mixed

with water and applied the same way as hennaI

Ehen mixed with henna, the color results are

superior. *nterestingly, the indigo dye in &orocco is

used for coloring &oroccan handicrafts blue. + case

of fatal poisoning has been reported following

administration of indigo to a child for therapeutic

purposes.6/7

Hair cosmetics

Options for individuals

allergic to para-

phenylenediamine

Semipermanent dyes may be an alternative, but

'/> may be allergic to them too. + patch test is

recommended. $yes containing paratoluenediamine

sulfate 8#T$S9 may be an option found in newer

semipermanent and permanent dyes and upto =/>

may be able to tolerate it.6'7 &etallic dyes and pure

henna are other options. These are not very popular

because of the 5nal color obtained.



Hair bleaching

This is a process used when the individual is

unhappy with the existing hair color, and wants to go

lighter 8all scalp hair9, or wants to get hair

highlighted in streaks 8small sections of hair9. *t

involves two steps, namely, stripping hair of all

eumelanin, and then using a toner to get the

re@uired shade. This process is capable of only

bleaching eumelanin and not pheomelanin. + mix of

hydrogen peroxide and ammonia 8with3 without

ammonium3potassium persulfate as a booster9 is

used for opening up the cuticle and stripping the

eumelanin from the cortex. Ehen extreme color

change is done, that is, from black or dark brown to

blonde, the process re@uires boosters that can result

in severe damage to the hair shaft. "air bleaching is

a timebound process where the hairdresser checks

the color of the hair every '/ to '= minutes. The

total duration depends on the 5nal color re@uired.

The hair is then washed with a specialized shampoo. The next step is the application of the hair color that

may be a semipermanent or a permanent dye. This

is left on for half an hour and the hair is rinsed with

water to remove all color. )onditioning is necessary

as the hair structure is now damaged and brittle.

This process iscalled 4toning(.6?7

Hair highlighting

"ighlighting is a process by which isolated sections

of hair are either lightened or darkened. This is done

by the 4foil method,( where strands of hair are

separated by a comb and laid over an aluminum foil

sheet, and then painted with a mixture of hydrogen

peroxide and pigment 6:igure 0a7. The foil is then

folded, and the contact time depends upon the

shade re@uired. 1very '/ to '= minutes, the foil is

unfolded to check the degree of lightening. The

remaining steps are as mentioned earlier. The result

is an enhanced esthetic appearance 6:igure 0b7.

#eters reported a burn following hair highlighting

using foil.6B7 !ften darker hair has to be bleached



5rst and then colored. This highlighting can also be

done with a brush or spray, which contains semi

permanent or permanent color. -arious coloring

styles are used to enhance the overall aesthetic

appeal. $ip dyeing 6:igure D7 is a process where only

the hair ends are colored with a dye dierent from

the base hair color. !mbre 8:rench Shaded9 is a new

trend where hair is dyed to give a



e .: 8a9 Si@er ;oi used to isoate stra!ds o; hair ;or hi7hi7hti!7 + %eachi!7 8%9 0!d resut o; the Ehi7hi7hti!7Fess

4i7ure ,: Dip - dyei!7 is a !ew tre!d ;or hair coor amo!7 the youth



applied. The hair is then 4ironed( between specialized

tongs, and then a neutralizer is applied and kept on

for ?/ minutes. The hair is once again rinsed and

dried. The next shampoo is advised after ? hours,

followed by conditioning. The 5nal outcome can be

very pleasing 6:igure J7.

"air straightening can be very damaging to the hair

and even when performed correctly, can result in

loss of up to ?/> of the tensile strength of virgin

hair. *t results in physical damage to the hair with

loss of proteins and moisture resulting in dry, brittle

hair. &any patients experience hair fall and breakage

and may present to the clinic with alopecia.6=',=?7

"ence,4i7ure : Om%re is a!other popuar hair dyei!7 stye



Hair cosmetics

there is a need to use specialized hair care products,

including shampoos and conditioners, post the

procedure, to ensure minimal damage to the hair.6=B7

Uust like with permanent hair dyes, there is a need to

4touch up( the growing roots especially if the inherent

hair are extremely curly. *t is best to avoid repeated

and fre@uent sessions, as damage by successive

straightening is additive. *t is advisable to perform

deep conditioning of the hair every fortnight to

protect the damaged hair. "air straightening

products may contain formaldehyde, which can

cause skin and mucosal irritation. Newer products

are available that are formaldehydefree, and thus,safer for both the hair care professionals and

patients.

#erming or permanent waving is a process by which

straight hair is chemically treated to give longlasting

curls. The process is similar to that of straightening,

with a few exceptions, and involves chemical

softening, rearranging, and re5xing the bonds.

&ercaptans are used to soften the hair. Eashed hair

is 5rst wound around rollers of the re@uired diameter.

The waving lotion is carefully applied to cover all the

hair, and left on for ?/ minutes to complete the

4i7ure G: Hair strai7hte!ed with a!thio!iatio!



softening process, where the disul5de bonds are

broken. This process is then neutralized by applying

an oxidizing agent for '= minutes on the hair that

are still wound around the rollers, and then for 5ve

more minutes with the rollers removed. The hair is

then rinsed. Shampooing is advised two days later.

The curls usually open a bit in a few weeks. + touch

up is re@uired for the newly grown hair.

The use of hair oils and perming agents in early

childhood have been shown to be associated with

earlier menarche6=7 and use of these hair products

should be avoided in prepubertal3very young

children.

Hair cosmetics in pregnancy

)outo et al., studied mothers of children with acute

myeloid or lymphocytic leukemia 8+&F or +FF9, and

found a probable correlation between the use of hair

dyes and hair straightening products during the 5rst

trimester of pregnancy and the development of +&F

or +FF.6==7

+lthough, no association was found in the pregnancy

outcome of women who underwent chemical

treatments such as straightening or curling the hair,6=07 it was inferred that it was best to avoid such

treatments during pregnancy.

)hildren with canites should not be encouraged to

use semipermanent or permanent hair dyes as they

have a high risk of early sensitization.

Adverse eects in hairdressers

#eople working in salons as professional hair

technicians are exposed to a much higher

concentration of chemicals, increasing the risk of

sensitization especially if use of gloves for wet work

is inconsistent.6=D7 1czematous hand dermatitis is

their commonest complaint.6=C7 Aut of greater

concern is the possibility of fertility disorders andadverse pregnancy outcomes.6=J,0/7 Safety



recommendations for female hairdressers include

working for less than B= hours per week, and a well

ventilated work place.60'7 "airdressers have a higher

risk of respiratory complaints especially asthma.

+mmonium persulfate salts, which are present in

bleaching agents, have been implicated as the main

etiological agents for the respiratory distress.60?7

"airdressers also suer from musculoskeletal

problems including shoulder, wrist and lower back

pain which is work related.60B7

What is new in hair cosmetics?

Newer methods and products are being developed

for improving the texture and softness of hair. The

use of glycylglycine has shown good promise in this

direction.607 The use of silicon oil in a microemulsion

preparation where the droplet size in V??.D Qxm has

been seen to improve the stability and deposition of

silicon oil on the hair shaft.60=7 Silicon oilinwater

nanoemulsions have shown to similarly improvesilicon deposition on the hair shaft.6007 Newer

products have been developed, which replenish the

'C&1+ lost during various cosmetic hair procedures

and attempt to improve the texture and strength of

the individual hair shaft.

"air cosmetics containing +rgan oil have hit the

market. These products claim to impart a nutritional

bene5t to the hair. The commercial preparations

contain in addition to +rgan oil, linseed oil and

silicones, which themselves promote 4slip( to the

hair.

+lfahydroxy acids 8e.g. glycolic and lactic acid9 are

being incorporated into hair care products

8shampoos, conditioners, hair balms9 6:igure '/7 to

bring down the alkaline p" resulting from various

hair cosmetic procedures. This allows smoothening

of the cuticular cells, making the hair appear smooth

and glossy.



+ lot more products to prevent hair 4aging( and color

protection are being developed with ;- re<ectors3

absorbers in their formulations.

4i7ure &': Hair care product co!tai!i!7 actic acid

which heps to reduce pH

+n exciting innovation under development is the

possibility of using dry thermal energy to transfer a

powdered 8azo9 dye into the hair shaft as a methodof hair color.60D7 The source of heat could be a hair

dryer, hot curling iron, or any other source. No more

mess associated with li@uid hair dyes. The time

re@uired to develop the 5nal color would be minimal.

+ recently described delivery system, using nonionic

ethosomal vesicles, showed signi5cantly better

deposition of products on hair as compared to the

traditional delivery systems.60C7

CONC3USION

Newer products are in the pipeline, making the hair

industry a continuously evolving one. +s

dermatologists specialized in hair care, the need of

the day is to keep abreast with these developments,

and keep a sharp eye out for adverse eects that

may occur as a conse@uence of their usage.

Date post:	05-Mar-2016
Category:	Documents
Upload:	tripan
View:	7 times
Download:	0 times

Colored Hair Care

Documents