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Symposium- HairDisorders
Ni na Madnani,Kaleem Khan1
ABSTRACT
The hair cosmetic
industry has
undergone a
revolutionary
change over the last
two decades. The
focus has
dramatically veered
from merely
cleaning to repair,
increasing the
tensile strength,reducing oxidative
damage, and
stimulating growth.
Newer shorter
procedures to make
hair look naturally
more lustrous,
smooth, and
manageable have
evolved. Specialized
grooming products
have been
formulated to
cleanse, calm, and
condition the hair,
and are tailored for
dierent hairtypes,
for example, dry,
drydamaged, oily,
colored, and gray
hair. !ther products
are formulated to
"aircosmetics
"indu%a National
tal, &ahim, &umbai,
adnani(s Skin and
linic, )olaba,
ai, *ndia
ss for correspondence
na &adnani,
indu%a National
tal, -eer Savarkar
&ahim // /'0,
ai, *ndia.
madnani2gmail.com
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alter the color or
structure of the hair
shaft, for example,
hair dyes,
perming3relaxing.
"air sprays and
waxes3gels, can alterthe 4lift( of the hair
shaft. +lthough
dermatologists are
experts in managing
scalp and hair
diseases, the
esthetic applications
of newer cosmetic
therapies still remain
elusive. This article
attempts to 5ll the
lacunae in our
knowledge of haircosmetics and
esthetic procedures
relevant in today(s
rapidly changing
beautyenhancing
industry, with
special emphasis on
the *ndian scenario
for chemical and
4natural( hair
products.
Key words:)osmetics, hair, hairdye, herbal,lanthionization
INTRODUCTION
+
4healthy(
head of
hair isdescribe
d as hair
that has
luster, is
smooth,
long and
silky,
bouncy,
with
good
volume,
and with
no
evidenc
e of
balding.6'7 To
achieve
this, the
haircare
industry
has
provided
us with
a
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plethora
of
products
to
beautify
,
enhance
,
strength
en, and
4nourish(
our
tresses.
&ost of
the
products
work at
the
cuticle
level of
the
exposed
hair
shaft. +
few can
enter
the
cortex.
Some
hair
procedu
res like
coloring,
perming
,
straight
ening,
and the
like,
result in
structur
aldamage
.
Speciali
zed
products
then
have to
be used
to repair
and
restore
8if
possible
9 the
natural
hair
integrity
. "air
dressing
has
evolved
from
%ust
cutting,
to
altering
the
color,
texture,
and
4health(
of the
hair.
:rizzy
hair can
be
straight
ened
and
straight
hair can
be
curled.
;nderst
anding
the
Access this artice o!i!e
"uic# Respo!se Code: $e%site:
www.i%dvl.com
DOI:
&'()&'*+'*,-.*/*(&&.,*)
structur
al
compon
ents is
essentia
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l to
underst
anding
4hair
care(.
STRUCTUR0AND1H2SICA3CHARACT0RISTICSO4HAIR
"ealthy
hair is
pigment
ed,
smooth,
glossy,
and
<exible
yet
strong,
with the
ability to
withstan
d
shearing
forces.
The hair
gloss
depends
upon
the
smooth
layering
of the
cuticle,
while
thestrength
depends
on the
integrity
of the
cortex,
which is
made
up of
'=>
hard
keratin
8skin
contains
?>
keratin9.
"air
cosmeti
cs act
on the
part of
the hair
shaft
that
pro%ects
beyondthe
scalp
surface.
The hair
consists
of a
cortex
surroun
ded by a
multilay
ered
complexcuticle
with3wit
hout a
central
medulla.
The
cuticle
has a
very
importa
nt role
to play
in
regulati
ng the
entry
and exit
of
chemica
ls3water
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to and
from the
cortex.
*t
provides
protecti
on from
external
environ
mental
factors,
and
when
intact,
keeps
the hair
surface
smoothand
glossy.
The
cuticle
is six to
eight
layers
thick
and
closely
adherent to the
inner
cortical
layer of
the hair
shaft. *t
is
damage
d in
procedu
res that
re@uire
disruptio
n of the
cortex,
such as,
bleachin
g,
coloring,
and
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5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
perming
. The
individu
al
cuticularcells are
made
up of
proteins,
lipids,
and
polysacc
harides.
The
cells are
colorless
and
arrange
d in an
overlapp
ing, roof
tilelike
pattern,
providin
g for an
impenet
rable
barrierto
external
environ
mental
damage
. The
open
ends of
the
overlapp
ing tiles
are
directed
away
from the
scalp,
toward
the
growing
tip. The
ad%acent
hair
grows
and
moves
outward
in
relation
to each
other.
This
arrange
ment
facilitate
s the
lifting
up of
dirt andscales,
helping
for easy
removal.6?7 The
cells
overlap
such
that
only
one
sixth of
each
surface
is
exposed
. The
outermo
st layer
of cells
forming
the
cuticle
is called
the
epicuticl
e, a
hydroph
obic
layer,
providin
g for the
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5rst line
of
defense
against
water.
*mmedia
tely
below is
the +
layer,
which is
high in
cysteine
content.
The thiol
groups
of
ad%acentcysteine
residues
undergo
oxidatio
n to
form
disul5de
bonds.
This
cross
linkage
confers
structur
al
strength
and
rigidity
to the
cuticle.
The
subse@u
ent
layers
have
progress
ively
less
cystine
content
and
correspo
ndingly
less
rigidity.
The A
layer or
the
exocutic
le lies
immedia
tely
below,
followed
by the
endocuti
cle. The
endocuti
cle has
the least
cystinecontent
and is
much
softer.
S'//+B
is an
importa
nt
protein
compon
ent of
the
endocuti
cle, and
is
released
during
harsh
chemica
l
procedu
res
resulting
in
instabilit
y of the
hair
structur
e.6B7 *t is
this
layer
that
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absorbs
water
and
swells
up,
allowing
for
change
is the
physical
properti
es of
hair.
:inally,
the
cellular
membra
necomplex
8)&)9
separat
es each
cell from
the one
below.
'C
methylei
cosanoic
acid
8'C
&1+9 is
an
importa
nt lipid
compon
ent of
this
hydroph
obic
layer. *n
many
ways,
the
cuticle
is
similar
to the
stratum
corneu
m of the
epiderm
is. +n
intact,
well
organize
d cuticle
is
represe
ntative
of
healthy
hair.
The
cortex
lies
immedia
telybeneath
the
cuticle
and
forms
the
ma%or
compon
ent of
human
hair. *t
consistsof
fusiform
spindle
cells
approxi
mately
'//
microns
long,
arrange
d
longitudi
nally.
1ach
spindle
cell has
micro5b
rils and
macro5
brils
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within a
cystine
rich
matrix.
The
cells are
held
together
by an
intercell
ular
substan
ce and
have
complex
keratins
numberi
ng ''D.$isul5de
bonds
between
the
cysteine
residues
within
the
cortex
are the
stronges
t and
structur
ally the
most
importa
nt bonds
that
hold the
keratin
proteins
together
. They
are
responsi
ble for
the
ultimate
shape of
the hair.
These
bonds
have to
be
dissolve
d during
the
procedu
res that
change
the
shape of
the hair.
"ydroge
n bonds
exist as
weaker
bonds
that can
stretchduring
simple
wetting
of hair.
The -an
derEaal
forces
and
)oulom
bic
interacti
ons
8salt
links9
are theHair
cosmetics
weaker
bonds
present.
The
cells of
the
cortex
contain
melanos
omes
that are
responsi
ble for
the
color of
the hair.
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"air
color is
almost
complet
ely
dictated
by the
presenc
e of
either
pheomel
anins
8red9 or
eumelan
ins
8brown3
black9
within
the
melanos
omes.
*nteresti
ngly,
the
melanos
omes
are
more
densely
arrange
d in the
outer
layers of
the
cortex
than at
the
central
core.
The
medullais at the
core of
the hair
5ber. *t
is highly
variable
in
human
hair and
is made
up of
specializ
ed cells
with air
spaces
in
between
. *t is
rich in
glycoge
n and
citrulline
. *t is
present
only in
the thick
dark
hair of
the
scalp
and is
lost in
the
aging
gray
hair. *ts
function
is not
known.
The
structur
e of
unproce
ssed
hair is
perfectl
y
designe
d and its
outermost layer
remains
smooth,
well
protecte
d, dries
@uickly
when
wetted,
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and
resists
diusion
of water
into the
cortex.67
This
maintai
ns the
structur
al
integrity
.
$0ATH0RIN6O4HAIR
The hair
surface
in
untreate
d hair
has a
p" of
.= to
=.=. This
acidic
p" helps
to keep
the
cuticular
cells
closely
opposed
to the
cortex.
$amage
to the
cuticle
results
instructur
al
changes
to the
hair
shaft
over a
period
of time
and
constitu
tes hair
weatheri
ng. +s
the
scalp
hair of
women
grows
over
long
anagen
periods,
the hair
is
exposed
to
several
years of
cumulati
ve
damage
from
external
factors
6:igure
'a7. The
contribu
ting
factors
include
chronic
ultraviol
et
exposur
e,
excessiv
e
wetting,
repeate
d harshchemica
l
procedu
res
6:igure
'b7, hot
combs,
blow
drying,
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and
even
simple,
but
repeate
d
activitie
s, such
as rough
combing
and
brushing
.6=,07 Foss
of
cuticle
or
lifting
up of
the
cuticular
plates
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7ure &: 8a a!d %9
aturay weathered
ir $eathered
owi!7 cosmetic
ocedures
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5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
exposes
the
cortex
that is
thenreadily
suscepti
ble to
damage
resulting
in split
ends
8trichopt
ilosis9
and
frayed
tips.
Eeather
ed hair
loses
moistur
e more
rapidly
than
normal
hair,
and
hence,
looks
dull and
dry.6D7
Eeather
ing is
not a
common
occurren
ce in
men
8except
thosewith
long
hair
styles9
as their
hair are
constant
ly cut,
which
helps
the
damage
8if any9
to be
trimmed
o.
"ofbaue
r
Tsamba
os,
Spycher,
and
Trueb
have
reported
that the
excessiv
e
weatheri
ng seen
in areas
of
androge
netic
alopecia
is due to
a low
threshol
d to
damage
caused
by
changes
of
ac@uired
pili
annulati.6C7
1nviron
mental
dust,dirt,
sebum
accumul
ation,
and hair
products
build up
on the
hair
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making
it sticky,
dull, and
often
unmana
geable.
This is
termed
as a
4bad
hair
day(.
)opper
from tap
water in
copper
water
pipes
gets
deposite
d on the
hair
during
washing
. Aeing
a
catalyst,
it
liberates
free
radicals
and
causes
the hair
to
become
dull and
damage
d.
:ortunat
ely in
*ndia,we do
not
have
copper
water
pipes.
Eater
from
wells
also has
a very
high
mineral
content,
which
can get
deposite
d on the
hair
shaft.
"air
washed
with
such
water
can also
damage
the hair.
C3ASSI4ICATION O4HAIRCOS50TICS
The
various
compon
ents of
hair atthe
molecul
ar level
regulate
the
eGcacy
of
various
hair
cosmeti
c
products
,
allowing
their
classi5c
ation as
follows
Cate7or
y &:
Those
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that
work on
the
exocuticl
e
Cate7or
y /:
Those
that
work on
the
cortex or
alter
the
structu
ral
integrit
y of
the
hair
shaft.
Cate7o
ry &
These
hair
cosmeti
cs
include
shampo
os,
conditio
ners,
serums,
hair
sprays,
waxes,
gels,
mousses
.
Shampoos
Tradition
ally, the
beauty
of *ndian
ladies
was
measure
d by the
length
of their
hair and
many
had
plaited
hair
reaching
upto
their
knees.
&aintain
ing a
good
scalp
and hair
hygiene
was a
very
importa
nt part
to
healthy
hair. The
concept
of hair
cleanser
s used
in
ancient
*ndia
gave
rise to
the
word
4shampo
o(
8*ndia
)hampo
9. "air
cleanser
s weremade by
boiling
soapnut
8HeethaI
Sapindus
Mukoros
si) with
*ndian
goosebe
$etergents
+nionic
)ationic
+mphoteric
Nonionic
Natural
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rries
8+amlaI
Phyllant
hus
emblica)
and
shikakai
(Acacia
concinna
) in
water
and
using
the
strained
water to
wash
the hair.
The
other
option
was
using a
paste of
:uller(s
earth
8multani
matti9
on the
scalp
and
rinsing it
o with
water.
The
:uller(s
earth
would
adsorb
the
grease,
whichwas
then
rinsed
o.
These
natural
cleanser
s left
the hair
dry, andHair
cosmetics
hence,
people
moved
onto
using
shampo
os
formulat
ed with
better
conditio
ning
properti
es.
Shampo
os are
formulat
ed for
cleansin
g the
hair.
+lthoug
h
historica
lly, that
was
their
only
function
, today
specializ
ed
bene5ts
are
expecte
d,
almostmagical,
where
shampo
os are
expecte
d to give
shine,
volume,
easy
:oaming
agents)onditioners
Thickeners3opaci5ers
+dditives
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combabi
lity,
protecti
on of
colored
hair
from
fading,
ultraviol
et
protecti
on, and
so on.
The
media
hype
has
been
responsi
ble for
these
heighte
ned
expectat
ions
from a
product,
which in
the past
merely
served
to clean
the hair.
+llshampoos havecertain
basicingredie
nts6J7
like 6Table '7
'. $etergent
?. :oaming agentsB. )onditioners
. Thickeners
=. !paci5ers
0. Se@u
D. p" ad%usters
C. . #reservatives
J. +dditives
Deter7e!ts
These
are
surfacta
nts that
combine
and
emulsify
and
wash o
the
grease
and dirt
8soil9.
-arious
types of
surfacta
nts are
formulat
ed to
cleanse
dierent
types of
hair
6Table
?7. The
most
popular
in use
are
sodium
Ta%e &:Co!stitue!ts o; shampoos
Fauryl3lau
reth
sulfates,
sarcosines
,
sulfosucci
nates
+mino
esters,
long chain
amino
acids
*midazolin
iums,
sultaines,
betaines
#olyoxyet
hylene
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fatty
alcohols3s
orbitol
esters
Soap
bark,
agave,
soapwort
#olyoxyet
hylene
sorbitol
esters,
polyoxyet
hylene
fatty
alcohols,
alkanolam
ides Soap
nut,
acacia
concinna
Fauramin
e oxide,
lauramide
&1+,
cocamide
&1+,
cocamido
propyl
hydroxysu
ltaine,
polysorba
te ?/
:attyalcohols3e
sters
-egetable
3mineral
oils
"ydrolyze
d animal
protein
+@ueous
)ellulose
gum, guar
gum, #1K,
methylcell
ulose,
clays Non
a@ueous
!rganocla
ys,
polyethyle
nes,
trihydroxy
stearin,
fumed
silica
Natural
#lant
extracts,
almond
extract,
balm mint
oil, egg
yolk,
chamomil
e, citrus,
clove,
basil
)ollagen,
vitamins,
ceramides
, and
glutamic
acid 50A:
5ethyeico
sa!oic
acid 106:
1oyethye
!e 7yco
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5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
Sur;acta!ts a!d hair types
Sur;acta!t
Amphoterics a!io!ics
A!io!ic
Catio!ic
Catio!ic amphoteric
Amphoteric
Amphoteric
laurel3la
ureth
sulfates
,
ammoni
um
lauryl3la
ureth
sulfates,
triethan
ol
amine
lauryl
sulfate,
diethan
ol lauryl
sulfate,
and
sodium
ole5n
sulfate.
+lso, a
deterge
nt, to
be very
eectiv
e in
cleansin
g the
hair,
would
also
strip
the hair
of
sebum,
leaving
them
dry.
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:oaming
agents
These
are very
popular
in
shampo
os, as
historic
ally,
people
e@uate
eGcacy
with
foaming
of the
shampo
o.
Kreasy
hair will
re@uire
repeate
d
washing
with
shampo
o, until
the
shampo
o foams
properly
.
)onditio
ners
+n
eectiv
e
cleanse
r will
strip
the hair
of all
grease,
thus
leaving
it dry
and
dull.
"ence,
shampo
os
incorpor
ate
various
ingredie
nts that
can
coat thecuticle
to
improve
shine,
slip,
and
easy
combab
ility.
Thickene
rs andopaci5er
s
These
appeal
to the
aestheti
c
sensibili
ties of
the
user,
but donot add
to the
cleansin
g eect.
They
have to
be
compati
ble with
the
surfacta
nts.+lthoug
h
alkanol
amides
were
the
early
agents
used,
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they
have
been
replace
d with
various
a@ueou
s and
non
a@ueou
s
agents.
The
consum
er
e@uates
thickne
ss with
a better
aestheti
c look
and
eGcacy.
Aetaine
s
combin
e with
the
anionic
surfacta
nts to
make
large
micelles
, and
also
contribu
te
electrol
yte salt
that
increases the
viscosit
y of the
product.
Se@uest
ering
agents
+
deterge
nt,
when
used
with
hardwater,
leaves a
sticky
residue
on the
surface.
This
scum
renders
the hair
dull and
unmanageable.
This is
often
seen
when
soap is
used to
cleanse
the hair.
Se@uest
ering
agentsprevent
the
formati
on of
this
scum
by
chelatin
g the
calcium
and
magnesium
ions
from
hard
water.
p"
ad%usters
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$amag
ed hair
can
swell
with
alkaline
deterge
nts.
"ence,
when
formula
ting
suitable
shampo
os for
such
hair, an
acidic
p"
ad%ustm
ent is
done.
The
substan
ces
used
includes
citric
and
lactic
acid.Hair
cosmetics
+dditives
-arious
addition
al
agents
are
added
to
shampoos to
either
give
better
conditio
ning or
to term
them as
a
4natural(
or a
herbal
shampo
o.
$ependi
ng upon
the
nature
of the
deterge
nt used,
shampo
os are
targeted
for
varioushair
types.
#roper
shampo
oing
involves
wetting
the hair
complet
ely,
taking a
goodamount
of
shampo
o in the
palm
and
then
applying
it along
the
head
and
length
of hair.
"air
should
not be
piled up
on top
of the
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head
before
applying
the
shampo
o as this
can lead
to
matting
of hair.6'/7
Conditio
ners
)onditio
ners
ful5ll
theneed for
hair
shaft
protecti
on and
are
agents
either
incorpor
ated
into
shampoos or
used
after
cleansin
g, on
slightly
damp
hair.
+fter a
shampo
o wash,
the
cuticles
get
slightly
lifted,
and the
hair
develop
s a
negative
charge
causing
the hair
to repel
each
other
and
appear
rough
and
uncomb
ed.
)onditio
ners
<atten
the
cuticlesand seal
the gaps
that
could
expose
the
importa
nt
cortex
to
environ
mental
damage
.
)onditio
ning
agents
incorpor
ated
into
shampo
os
8labeled
as
conditio
ning
shampo
os3 dry
hair
shampo
os3hair
fall
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shampo
os9
include
mineral
oils,
vegetabl
e oils,
fatty
alcohols
3esters,
humect
ants,
hydrolyz
ed
animal
proteins,
glycerin
e,stearalk
onium
chloride,
propylen
e glycol,
silicones
8dimethi
cone,
simethic
one9,
and
natural
products
like
bees
honey
8an
emulsio
n of
proteins
sugars
and
lipids9,
vinegar,
wheat
germ
oil,
panthen
ol,
collagen
, and
placenta
.
Silicone
s have
become
very
popular
as they
provide
good
4slip(
and
luster,
and
retain
moistur
e in the
hair, but
siliconeoil is
hydroph
obic and
it does
not get
absorbe
d onto
the hair
very
easily.
Sebumis a
natural
conditio
ner for
the hair.
Ay
capillary
action,
the
excreted
sebum,
coats
only the
proximal
'.= inch
of the
hair
shaft. *t
is the
process
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of
combing
that
helps to
distribut
e the
sebum
distally
and coat
the hair
evenly.
+n ideal
conditio
ner, if it
did
exist,
would
need tomatch
the
compon
ents and
natural
properti
es of
sebum.
"ence,
they
would
need to
have a
combina
tion of
free
saturate
d3unsat
urated
fatty
acids,
s@ualen
e,
choleste
rol, and
triglycer
ides.
The
practice
of using
hair oil
in *ndia
since
ancient
times is
akin to
using
conditio
ners
today.
)oconut
oil, but
not
sun<ow
er or
mineral
oil, can
penetrat
e the
hairshaft
and
reduce
protein
loss.6''7
)ommer
cially,5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
conditio
ners are
available as
rinses,
instant,
leave
on,
serums,
and
professi
onal
conditio
ners.
Hinses
or
instant
conditio
ners are
applied
to
washed
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and
towel
dried
hair, left
on for
two to
5ve
minutes,
and
rinsed
o. They
serve
only to
improve
the
combabi
lity of
the hair.
Feave
on
conditio
ners are
applied
to
washed
and
dried
hair,
andremain
on till
the next
shampo
o. They
smoothe
n down
the
cuticle
and
protect
the hair
from
weatheri
ng. They
are
conveni
ent and
popular.
They
contain
cationic
deterge
nts,
water,
lipids,
and
thickene
rs. They
may be
availabl
e in thin
or thick
formulat
ions.
Their
eect is
shortlived.
Feavein
condition
ers
These
are
products
used for
curly or
unmana
geablehair
prior to
styling
or blow
drying
and on
hair that
has
been
damage
d by
chemica
l
process
es. +s
they
contain
mineral
and
vegetabl
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e oils,
petrolat
um, and
silicone,
they
impart
gloss to
the hair
and trap
in
moistur
e. These
are not
suitable
for 5ne
hair.
$eepcondition
ers
#opular
as a
parlor
procedu
re,
these
are
creams
or oils
appliedand left
on for
?/ to B/
minutes,
with or
without
a
steamer
, and
then
rinsed
o. They
contain
concentr
ated
conditio
ning
agents
8protein,
@uatern
ary
ammoni
um
salts9.
They
provide
more
smoothe
ning of
the
cuticle,
and
hence,
better
gloss.
+ntihairloss
conditioners
These
actually
contain
deep
conditio
ning
agents
that seal
the split
or
frayedends to
reduce
damage
and
brittlene
ss, and
thus,
indirectl
y reduce
hair fall.
Kenerall
y
consider
ed safe
for
regular
use, few
cases of
adverse
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events
like
contact
dermatit
is have
been
reported
with the
use of
both
shampo
os6'?,'B7
and
conditio
ners6''07
Shampo
os can
cause a<areup
of
childhoo
d
eczema
s.6'D7
Hair
styling
product
s
The hairindustry
has
provided
us with
numero
us
products
to use
before
or after
a
physical
hair
styling
procedu
re like
curling
with
rollers,
ironing,
back
combing
, and
the like.
These
products
help in
changin
g the
texture
of the
hair or
in
holding
the hair
in a
particul
ar stylefor long
wear.
&ost of
them
can be
washed
o with
a
shampo
o or
even
with
water.Hair
cosmetics
The
popular
products
are hair
sprays,
gels,
waxes,
pomade
s, and
mousses
.
"air
sprays35
xatives
These
are
products
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in
aerosol
form,
which
when
sprayed,
create
stiness
and
4hold(
between
hair.
They are
employe
d after
styling
the hair
to 4hold(
the style
for an
extende
d
period.
The
main
constitu
ent is
polyviny
lpyrrolid
one,
which is
water
washabl
e. +n
addition
of vinyl
acetate
make
the
sprays
longer
lasting8high
hold9,
but
diGcult
to
shampo
o o.
Newer
softer
hair
sprays
contain
methacr
ylate
copolym
ers.
"air gels
These
are
useful
products
for
individu
als with
diuse
hair
thinning, as
when
applied
to the
damp
hair, can
be
styled to
give a
lift from
the
scalp,
giving a
semblan
ce of
volume.
They
also
give a
gloss to
the hair.
The
constitu
ents are
similar
to hair
sprays
and can
be used
for
4styling(
or
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4sculptin
g( the
hair
6:igure
?7.
"airwaxes
These
are
availabl
e as a
wax
containi
ng
copolym
ers,
which
aresofter
and can
be
evenly
spread
over dry
hair for
styling
and can
give an
4oily(
look.
"air
mousses
These
are very
popular
because
of their
ease of
use.
+vailabl
e as a
foam in
aerosoli
zed
cans,
they
contain
a soft
copolym
er that
gives a
more
natural
look,
with less
4hold(.
#omades
and
brilliantin
e
-ery
popular
with
+frican
+merica
n people
as a
styling
aid.
These
are
products
that
contain
vegetabl
e3
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4i7ure /: Hair styedwith hair 7e
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5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
mineral
oils,
petrolat
um,
lanolinand
waxes,
and help
in
styling,
moisturi
zing and
conditio
ning the
hair.
They are
comedo
genic.
Arillianti
nes are
li@uid
pomade
s and
newer
formulat
ions
have
betterslip, as
they
contain
silicones
.
4ShineL
sprays
These
contain
silicones
,hydrolyz
ed
animal
proteins,
and
cationic
amino
acid
derivati
ves, and
leave a
shine
when
sprayed
on
damage
d hair.
These
are very
useful
for hair
that has
become
dry and
lusterles
s.
4"eat
protectiv
eL
products
"air
styling
treatme
nts
using
thermal
energy
caneasily
damage
the hair,
especiall
y when
wet.
Speciali
zed
products
have
been
designe
d to
address
this
particul
ar
problem
. They
contain
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conditio
ning
polymer
s such
as
silicon,
petrolat
um, and
mineral
oil,
which
function
primaril
y by
forming
light
weight
5lms. These
act as
thermal
barriers
and
oer
some
degree
of
protecti
on.
4)amou<
ageL
products
#atients
with hair
loss
have a
decreas
ed
@uality
of life
8MoF9and as
treating
physicia
ns,
dermato
logists
should
address
this
aspect
of hair
loss.6'C7
Several
cosmeti
c
products
are
availabl
e to be
used by
the
individu
al to
conceal
the
alopecia
, for
example
, Toppik
8keratin
5bers9
and
"airous
e
8cellulos
e
5bers9.
These
come in
various
shades
of brown
and
black,
and can
be
sprinkle
d on the
bald
areas.
Staticelectricit
y make
the
5bers
adhere
to each
other
and the
hair on
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the
scalp,
thus
eective
ly
conceali
ng the
bald
area.
Similarly
, 4cover
sticks(
made of
waxes
and
pigment
can be
used by
individu
als who
wish to
conceal
the
4gray
show(
between
two
sessions
of haircoloring
6:igure
B7.
Cate7o
ry /
These
include
hair
cosmeti
cs that
work on
the
cortex
or alter
the
structur
al
integrity
of the
hair
shaft
and
include
hair
colors,
bleachin
g
agents,
straight
ening,
and
perming
agents.
Haircosmetics
Hair
colors
outh is
represe
nted by
absence
of gray
hair.
Kraying
Temporary hair dye A, Semipermanent O#ermanent% PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP Qb Q PPPPPPPPPPPPPPPP Q@ LR ) iL * R. O
4i7ure ): Depth o; pe!etratio! o; hair dyes a(
moecues o; temporary hair dyes are u!a%e to pe!
i!to the corte< %( Smaer moecues o; semi-perma!e
dyes easiy pe!etrate i!to the corte< %ut di=use out
i! the su%se>ue!t washes c( Smaer dye prec
pe!etrate i!to the corte< a!d u!der7o o<idatio! to
ar7e coored moecues that remai! withi! the corteare u!a%e to di=use out
4i7ure *: 8a a!d %9
Cosmetic camou?a7e
with a co@er-stic#:
Be;ore a!d
immediatey a;ter
appicatio!
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become
s
obvious
when at
least
?/> of
hair
loses
pigment
. *n the
@uest
for
looking
young,
research
has
focused
on
providin
g us
with
several
options
for
covering
gray
hair3cha
nging
hair
color
tempora
rily or
perman
ently.
"air
coloring
molecul
es are of
dierent
sizes,
with the
largermolecul
es
mainly
getting
deposite
d on the
hair
shaft as
a
tempora
ry or
semi
perman
ent
color. *n
order for
a hair
dye to
be
termed
4perman
ent( the
molecul
es
should
be
capable
of
penetrat
ing into
the
cortex
and
remaini
ng
there.
Kradual
hair dyes
These
are
home
use
products
, which
give the
desired
color
after
several
days of
use. The
product
has to
be
applied
daily on
the hair
till the
desired
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shade is
reached.
The
patient
then
stops
the
applicati
ons, but
would
need to
restart
once the
shade
starts
fading
o. The
gradual
hair
colors
contain
salts of
metals
8lead,
silver or
bismuth
9 in a
li@uid
form,
which
when
applied
to the
hair,
leave
behind
the
metallic
salts as
sul5des,
oxides,
andsuboxid
es.
)omplia
nce is
not very
good
because
of the
messine
ss of
applicati
on, but
these
are
useful
for
individu
als who
are
allergic
to para
phenyle
nediami
ne
8##$9.
The end
result is
dull hair
with a
4not
perfect(
shade of
color,
which
fades o
faster
and
re@uires
constant
reapplic
ation. *n
addition,
hair that
has
been
colored
with
these
gradual
dyes
cannotbe
sub%ecte
d to
chemica
l
perming
or
straight
ening
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procedu
res.
Some
example
s of
gradual
hair
dyes
availabl
e in the
*ndian
market
are
4-egetal(
8non
##$9
and
4Kodre%
esh
ala(
8##$
containi
ng9.
Temporar
y hair
dyes
These
are
useful to
brighten
the
original
hair
shade,
to add a
tint, or
enhance
dyed
hair.
They
getwashed
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5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
o with
water
and
barely
last tillthe next
hair
wash.
They
use
textile
acid
dyes
8:$)
and $)
dyes9.
Their
large
molecul
ar size,
keeps
them
outside
the
cuticle,
keeping
the
cortex
and
medulla
unaect
ed
6:igure
7.
4Silver
shampo
o( is an
example
of a
tempora
ry dye
used by
women
with all
gray
hair to
give a
silver
hair
look.
The
purple
and blue
dye
colors in
the
silver
shampo
o,
camou<
age the
dull
yellow
stain,
which
these
hair
develop
when
combine
d with
sebum
and
sweat.
Semi
permane
nt hair
dyes
These
are
water
soluble,
non
ionic,
low
molecul
ar
mixtures
of preformed
dyes,6'J7
the
number
s of
which
vary
dependi
ng on
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the
shade
re@uired
. These
do not
re@uire
hydroge
n
peroxide
. They
are
usually
anthra@
uinone,
aromati
c
amines
or
aminoni
trobenz
enes,
and may
contain
up to 'C
compon
ent dyes
to
obtain
the
re@uired
shade.
The
product
is
applied
to
shampo
oed and
towel
dried
hair, left
on for?/
minutes
and
then
rinsed
o. +
conditio
ner is
used
post
shampo
oing.
The
color
gets
reduced
with
each
shampo
o and is
complet
ely
washed
o in six
to eight
shampo
os. +
patch
test is
re@uired
prior to
the use
of these
dyes.
$emi
permane
nt hair
colors
These
are
gentler
on the
hair
than the
perman
ent
colors
as they
do not
containammoni
a, and
have a
lower
concentr
ation of
hydroge
n
peroxide
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8?>9 as
compare
d to
perman
ent hair
dyes
80>9.6?/7
"ence,
the
irritation
to the
scalp
and
damage
to the
hair
shaft is
reduced.
They are
eective
in
covering
gray
hair, but
not in
lightenin
g the
hair
shade.
#ermane
nt hair
dyes
#erman
ent hair
colors
are the
most
common
ly used
hair
colors,because
of their
longevit
y, ease
of use,
and
ability to
have a
range of
color
shades.
These
are also
superior
for gray
cover,
as the
result is
perman
ent and
does not
get
washed
o. This
is an
oxidatio
n
reaction
that
re@uires
the
combina
tion of
para
dyes
8para
phenyle
nediami
ne,
para
toluene
diamine,
and
para
aminoph
enol,
known
as the
primary
interme
diaries9with
hydroge
n
peroxide
6Table B7
to
liberate
oxygen.
This
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process
takes
place
inside
the
cortex
and the
entry is
facilitate
d by
ammoni
a. *n
ammoni
afree
hair
dyes
this
work is
perform
ed by
other
alkaline
agents
like
sodium
carbona
te and
ethanola
mine.
The
primary
interme
diaries
are
smaller
molecul
es that
can
pass
through
the
cuticularcells.
!nce
inside
the
cortex,
they
combine
with
couplers
,Haircosmetics
*: Co!ce!tratio! o; Hydro7e! pero<ide used as a de@eoper i!
hair coors
0=ecti@ity
Used to dar#e! hair ;or same e@e o; coor
To i7hte! hair coor up to two e@es
To i7hte! hair coor up to three e@es
which
are
aniline
dyes, to
produce
the
re@uire
d colormolecul
es. +s
these
color
molecul
es are
large,
they
cannot
pass
out
through
the
cuticle,
and
remain
5rmly
bound
in the
cortex.
+
change
of
shade
from
dark to
light
and the
reverse
is
possible
. The
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color
remains
in the
hair,
and a
touch
up of
roots
may be
re@uire
d after
six to
eight
weeks
dependi
ng on
the rate
of
growth.
*t is
importa
nt for
the
4touch
up(
process
to treat
only the
new
growth,
as the
older
hair
shaft
color
may
darken
due to
re
applicat
ion. +s
##$derivati
ves can
cause
allergic
reaction
s, a
patch
test is
necessa
ry
before
using a
perman
ent hair
dye. !f
late,
##$ is
being
incorpor
ated
into
henna
to give
a
deeper
color
and is
markete
d as
black
henna
(kali
mehendi
).
#erman
ent hair
colors
are
availabl
e as
li@uids,
gels,
and
creams.
+
home
use
pack
contain
s two
bottlesthat
contain
colorles
s li@uids
8hydrog
en
peroxid
e and a
primary
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interme
diary in
combin
ation
with
surfacta
nts,
conditio
ner, and
so on9.
The two
are
mixed
in e@ual
proporti
on and
applied
immedi
ately to
the hair.
+ny
left
over
mixture
must be
discard
ed. The
proporti
on of
combin
ation is
''.
Some
home
use
packs
are
availabl
e in
powder
form,
whichhas to
be
reconsti
tuted
with
water.
"ere,
the
oxidizin
g agent
is either
sodium
or
potassi
um
perbora
te in
powder
ed
form.
The
5nal p"
achieve
d is CJ.
#atch
test for
semi
perman
ent and
perman
ent hair
colors
The hair
dye test
can be
an
4open(
test or
one
using
the
epicuta
neous
patch
test.
!pen
test !n
a clean
area
behind
the ear
or on
the
forearm
%ust
below
the
elbow,
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the dye
mix is
applied
with a
cotton
swab
and
allowed
to dry. *f
there is
no
reaction
in C to
D?
hours,
the dye
mix can
be
safely
used on
the
scalp.
The
epicuta
neous
patch
test is
the gold
standar
d. This
is done
with ?>
##$ in
petrolat
um. The
result is
read at
?
hours. +
' to
Bindicate
s
allergy
to ##$.
Hecentl
y, an in
vitro
assay
using
patient(
s
periphe
ral
blood
mononu
clear
cells
has
been
develop
ed with
a
sensitivi
ty of
'//>.6?'7
5ad!a!ia!d Kha!
)ross
reactions
#atients
sensitiv
e to
##$
may
possibly
cross
react
withcompou
nds
listed in
Table .
Safety
regulatio
ns for
para
phenylen
ediamine
The1uropea
n
)ommis
sion
$irectiv
e ?//J
regulati
on
directs
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that the
maximu
m
concent
ration
of hair
dye
substan
ces in
oxidativ
e hair
dyes
should
not
exceed
?>.6??7
This
may be
true for
hair dye
regulati
ons, but
studies
attempt
ing to
@uantify
the
percent
age of
##$ in
decorati
ve
henna
tattoos
have
shown
alarmin
g levels
varying
betwee
n '
0>.6?B,?7
Side
eects
of hair
dyes
&ost
reaction
s to hair
dye are
due to
the ##$
content.
The role
of
ammoni
a is to
facilitat
e dye
penetra
tion,
and
ammoni
afree
dyes,
althoug
h
gentler
to the
hair
shaft,
do not
prevent
##$
reaction
s. "air
dye
reaction
s most
commo
nly
present
as
allergic
or
irritant
contact
dermati
tis.
Some
patientsmay
experie
nce
photoall
ergic
dermati
tis.6?'7
$ye
induced
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depigm
entation
is not
uncom
mon6?=7
and
tends to
run
along
the
hairline.
Eith
subse@
uent
exposur
es,
there
may be
a more
widespr
ead
present
ation.
"air
dyes
change
the
texture
of the
hair by
strippin
g o
the 'C
&1+
layer,
and
thus,
making
it
coarse
and
dull.##$ in
perman
ent hair
dyes
induces
apoptos
is of
cells
and
thus
contribu
tes to
hair fall.6?0,?D7
;ncom
mon
reaction
s
include
lympho
matoid
reaction
,
erythe
ma
multifor
me,6?C7
and
even
anaphyl
axis6?J7
followin
g hair
dye
applicat
ion.
"air dye
and
cancer
risk
There is
conside
rable
debate
on the
associat
ion
betwee
n the
use of
hair dye
and
develop
ment of
cancer.
*t
started
in the
'JD/s,
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with the
observa
tion
that
perman
ent hair
dyes
contain
certain
chemic
als that
were
structur
ally
similar
to
aromati
c
amines
known
to
cause
bladder
cancer.6B/7 This
was
especial
ly true
for hair
dyes
manufa
ctured
before
'JC/,
when
there
were no
Ta%e ):Cross-reacti@itywith 11D
3oca a!esthetics
4ou!d i! su!scree!s shampoos a!d
cosmetic products
A!ti-tu%ercuosis dru7
4ood a!d medicatio! coora!t
semi-perma!e!t a!d perma!e!t dyes
7asoi!e a!d diese oi %apoi!t pe! i!#
Dru7s
mi!e
Haircosmetics
restricti
ons on
the
manufac
turing
process.
+fter the
;S :ood
and
$rug
+dminist
ration
8:$+9
placed
regulato
ry
guidelin
es onhair dye
formulat
ion in
'JC/,
there
has
been a
signi5ca
nt
change
in hair
dye
composi
tion.
&ost
recent
studies
and
reviews
of the
meta
analysis
do not
support
a causal
relations
hip
between
personal
hair dye
use and
bladder
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maligna
ncies.6B',B?7
"oweve
r,
hairdres
sers still
remain
at a
higher
risk.6BB7
:ew
reports
link an
increase
d
incidenc
e of :ollicula
r
Fympho
ma 8a
variant
of Non
"odgkin
(s
Fympho
ma
8N"F99
in
patients
using
perman
ent hair
dyes,
but this
is again
true for
those
using
hair
dyes
prior to
'JC/.6B,B=7
+lso, it
has
been
propose
d that a
possible
genetic
variatio
n in the
N
acetyltr
anfefera
se
enzyme
may be
an
underlyi
ng
predispo
sing
factor
for
development of
N"F in
certain
groups
of
patients
applying
hair
dyes.6B07
;se of
hair
colors
does not
appear
to
increase
the risk
of
develop
ment of
breast
cancer.6BD7
*ndian
hair dyes
Several
hair
dyes are
availabl
e in
*ndia for
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home
use, for
example
, Aigen,
Kodre%
"air
)olor,
F(!real
excellen
ce,
Karnier
ammoni
afree,
and for
salon
use,
Eella,
&a%irel,*noa,
and so
on. &ost
of these
have
##$ as
an
active
ingredie
nt and
sensitivi
ty
testing
is
recomm
ended
for most
of then
before
every
use.
Aigen
contains
?nitro
#
phenyle
nediami
ne
Sulfate
and
nitro!
phenyle
nediami
ne
sulfate
as ##$
derivati
ves,
with
sodium
perborat
e as the
oxidizin
g agent.
*t is
mixed
with
water
and
thenapplied.
The
percent
age of
##$ is
not
more
than
/.JC>
when
mixed.
-arious
home
use
formulat
ions
8containi
ng ##$9
are
availabl
e, some
as
surfacta
nt
based
and
some
are with
addition
al
conditio
ning
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agents.
The
Kodre%
hair
color
althoug
h
labeled
as
4herbal
based(,
recomm
ends a
skin
sensitivi
ty test.
*t is a
powderformulat
ion,
which
when
mixed
with
water,
has a
##$
content
of not
more
than
'.=>. *n
this
case,
herbs
are
added
for
improvin
g the
@uality
of the
hair
6:igure
=7.
-egetabl
e dyes
+
number
of
herbal
and
+yurvedi
c dyes
are
availabl
e in
*ndia
under
various
trade
names
such as
Alack
Hose
hair dye
herbal8claims
herbal,
but
advocat
es
sensitivi
ty test9,
!ptima
"air dye
8##$
and
ammoni
afree,
but
contains
para
toluene
diamine
sulfate9,
hadi
dye
8contain
s
henna9,
-egetal
8contain
s henna
and
other
herbs9,
and
*ndus
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-alley
hair
color,
among
others.
"enna
(Lawsoni
a alba),
is a
natural
organic
substan
ce,
which is
popular
in *ndia
for
decorati
ve
tempora
ry
tattoos
and for
coloring
gray
hair. The
active
ingredie
nt
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is ?hydroxy ', naptha@uinone. The active
ingredient is obtained by treating the leaves with
sodium bicarbonate. *t is available as a powder that
is mixed with coee powder, and made into a paste
with black tea water, allowed to stand for a couple of
hours, and then applied to the hair. The contact time
is a couple of hours, after which the hair is washed
and shampooed. This process is useful for people
allergic to para dyes. *t is a messy process, and the
henna leaves a strong odor in the hair that lasts
several days. The end result is dry hair with an
orangered tint. The color fades gradually with
shampooing and has to be reapplied as and when
re@uired. +lthough relatively inert, bullous allergic
a!i a!d Kha!
e : 3ocay a@aia%e her%a-%ased perma!e!t hair dye co!tai!i!7 para-phe!ye!ediami!e( 8a9 8I!set9 cose up
e showi!7 the para-phe!ye!ediami!e co!te!t decaratio!
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contact dermatitis 8+)$9 has been reported in a
threeyearold child.6BC7 + locally available black hair
dye by Kodre% is marketed as completely natural and
contains reetha 8soapnut9, shikakai (Acacia concinna9,
bhringra% (Eclipta prostrata), mehendi 8henna9 and
aamla 8*ndian gooseberry9. Shikakai and reetha act
as natural cleansing agents, mehendi as a natural
colorant3conditioner, and aamla as a natural hair
darkener. !ver the last few years, 4black henna( is
being used for decorative, 4instant( tattoos at events
and tourist attraction spots. These contain, in
addition to the henna, a para dye, and thus, can
cause allergic reactions. Several such cases have
been reported.6BJ7
ndi!o"era tinctoria is a natural dye that is available
for commercial use as a green powder. *t is mixed
with water and applied the same way as hennaI
Ehen mixed with henna, the color results are
superior. *nterestingly, the indigo dye in &orocco is
used for coloring &oroccan handicrafts blue. + case
of fatal poisoning has been reported following
administration of indigo to a child for therapeutic
purposes.6/7
Hair cosmetics
Options for individuals
allergic to para-
phenylenediamine
Semipermanent dyes may be an alternative, but
'/> may be allergic to them too. + patch test is
recommended. $yes containing paratoluenediamine
sulfate 8#T$S9 may be an option found in newer
semipermanent and permanent dyes and upto =/>
may be able to tolerate it.6'7 &etallic dyes and pure
henna are other options. These are not very popular
because of the 5nal color obtained.
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Hair bleaching
This is a process used when the individual is
unhappy with the existing hair color, and wants to go
lighter 8all scalp hair9, or wants to get hair
highlighted in streaks 8small sections of hair9. *t
involves two steps, namely, stripping hair of all
eumelanin, and then using a toner to get the
re@uired shade. This process is capable of only
bleaching eumelanin and not pheomelanin. + mix of
hydrogen peroxide and ammonia 8with3 without
ammonium3potassium persulfate as a booster9 is
used for opening up the cuticle and stripping the
eumelanin from the cortex. Ehen extreme color
change is done, that is, from black or dark brown to
blonde, the process re@uires boosters that can result
in severe damage to the hair shaft. "air bleaching is
a timebound process where the hairdresser checks
the color of the hair every '/ to '= minutes. The
total duration depends on the 5nal color re@uired.
The hair is then washed with a specialized shampoo. The next step is the application of the hair color that
may be a semipermanent or a permanent dye. This
is left on for half an hour and the hair is rinsed with
water to remove all color. )onditioning is necessary
as the hair structure is now damaged and brittle.
This process iscalled 4toning(.6?7
Hair highlighting
"ighlighting is a process by which isolated sections
of hair are either lightened or darkened. This is done
by the 4foil method,( where strands of hair are
separated by a comb and laid over an aluminum foil
sheet, and then painted with a mixture of hydrogen
peroxide and pigment 6:igure 0a7. The foil is then
folded, and the contact time depends upon the
shade re@uired. 1very '/ to '= minutes, the foil is
unfolded to check the degree of lightening. The
remaining steps are as mentioned earlier. The result
is an enhanced esthetic appearance 6:igure 0b7.
#eters reported a burn following hair highlighting
using foil.6B7 !ften darker hair has to be bleached
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5rst and then colored. This highlighting can also be
done with a brush or spray, which contains semi
permanent or permanent color. -arious coloring
styles are used to enhance the overall aesthetic
appeal. $ip dyeing 6:igure D7 is a process where only
the hair ends are colored with a dye dierent from
the base hair color. !mbre 8:rench Shaded9 is a new
trend where hair is dyed to give a
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e .: 8a9 Si@er ;oi used to isoate stra!ds o; hair ;or hi7hi7hti!7 + %eachi!7 8%9 0!d resut o; the Ehi7hi7hti!7Fess
4i7ure ,: Dip - dyei!7 is a !ew tre!d ;or hair coor amo!7 the youth
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applied. The hair is then 4ironed( between specialized
tongs, and then a neutralizer is applied and kept on
for ?/ minutes. The hair is once again rinsed and
dried. The next shampoo is advised after ? hours,
followed by conditioning. The 5nal outcome can be
very pleasing 6:igure J7.
"air straightening can be very damaging to the hair
and even when performed correctly, can result in
loss of up to ?/> of the tensile strength of virgin
hair. *t results in physical damage to the hair with
loss of proteins and moisture resulting in dry, brittle
hair. &any patients experience hair fall and breakage
and may present to the clinic with alopecia.6=',=?7
"ence,4i7ure : Om%re is a!other popuar hair dyei!7 stye
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Hair cosmetics
there is a need to use specialized hair care products,
including shampoos and conditioners, post the
procedure, to ensure minimal damage to the hair.6=B7
Uust like with permanent hair dyes, there is a need to
4touch up( the growing roots especially if the inherent
hair are extremely curly. *t is best to avoid repeated
and fre@uent sessions, as damage by successive
straightening is additive. *t is advisable to perform
deep conditioning of the hair every fortnight to
protect the damaged hair. "air straightening
products may contain formaldehyde, which can
cause skin and mucosal irritation. Newer products
are available that are formaldehydefree, and thus,safer for both the hair care professionals and
patients.
#erming or permanent waving is a process by which
straight hair is chemically treated to give longlasting
curls. The process is similar to that of straightening,
with a few exceptions, and involves chemical
softening, rearranging, and re5xing the bonds.
&ercaptans are used to soften the hair. Eashed hair
is 5rst wound around rollers of the re@uired diameter.
The waving lotion is carefully applied to cover all the
hair, and left on for ?/ minutes to complete the
4i7ure G: Hair strai7hte!ed with a!thio!iatio!
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softening process, where the disul5de bonds are
broken. This process is then neutralized by applying
an oxidizing agent for '= minutes on the hair that
are still wound around the rollers, and then for 5ve
more minutes with the rollers removed. The hair is
then rinsed. Shampooing is advised two days later.
The curls usually open a bit in a few weeks. + touch
up is re@uired for the newly grown hair.
The use of hair oils and perming agents in early
childhood have been shown to be associated with
earlier menarche6=7 and use of these hair products
should be avoided in prepubertal3very young
children.
Hair cosmetics in pregnancy
)outo et al., studied mothers of children with acute
myeloid or lymphocytic leukemia 8+&F or +FF9, and
found a probable correlation between the use of hair
dyes and hair straightening products during the 5rst
trimester of pregnancy and the development of +&F
or +FF.6==7
+lthough, no association was found in the pregnancy
outcome of women who underwent chemical
treatments such as straightening or curling the hair,6=07 it was inferred that it was best to avoid such
treatments during pregnancy.
)hildren with canites should not be encouraged to
use semipermanent or permanent hair dyes as they
have a high risk of early sensitization.
Adverse eects in hairdressers
#eople working in salons as professional hair
technicians are exposed to a much higher
concentration of chemicals, increasing the risk of
sensitization especially if use of gloves for wet work
is inconsistent.6=D7 1czematous hand dermatitis is
their commonest complaint.6=C7 Aut of greater
concern is the possibility of fertility disorders andadverse pregnancy outcomes.6=J,0/7 Safety
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recommendations for female hairdressers include
working for less than B= hours per week, and a well
ventilated work place.60'7 "airdressers have a higher
risk of respiratory complaints especially asthma.
+mmonium persulfate salts, which are present in
bleaching agents, have been implicated as the main
etiological agents for the respiratory distress.60?7
"airdressers also suer from musculoskeletal
problems including shoulder, wrist and lower back
pain which is work related.60B7
What is new in hair cosmetics?
Newer methods and products are being developed
for improving the texture and softness of hair. The
use of glycylglycine has shown good promise in this
direction.607 The use of silicon oil in a microemulsion
preparation where the droplet size in V??.D Qxm has
been seen to improve the stability and deposition of
silicon oil on the hair shaft.60=7 Silicon oilinwater
nanoemulsions have shown to similarly improvesilicon deposition on the hair shaft.6007 Newer
products have been developed, which replenish the
'C&1+ lost during various cosmetic hair procedures
and attempt to improve the texture and strength of
the individual hair shaft.
"air cosmetics containing +rgan oil have hit the
market. These products claim to impart a nutritional
bene5t to the hair. The commercial preparations
contain in addition to +rgan oil, linseed oil and
silicones, which themselves promote 4slip( to the
hair.
+lfahydroxy acids 8e.g. glycolic and lactic acid9 are
being incorporated into hair care products
8shampoos, conditioners, hair balms9 6:igure '/7 to
bring down the alkaline p" resulting from various
hair cosmetic procedures. This allows smoothening
of the cuticular cells, making the hair appear smooth
and glossy.
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+ lot more products to prevent hair 4aging( and color
protection are being developed with ;- re<ectors3
absorbers in their formulations.
4i7ure &': Hair care product co!tai!i!7 actic acid
which heps to reduce pH
+n exciting innovation under development is the
possibility of using dry thermal energy to transfer a
powdered 8azo9 dye into the hair shaft as a methodof hair color.60D7 The source of heat could be a hair
dryer, hot curling iron, or any other source. No more
mess associated with li@uid hair dyes. The time
re@uired to develop the 5nal color would be minimal.
+ recently described delivery system, using nonionic
ethosomal vesicles, showed signi5cantly better
deposition of products on hair as compared to the
traditional delivery systems.60C7
CONC3USION
Newer products are in the pipeline, making the hair
industry a continuously evolving one. +s
dermatologists specialized in hair care, the need of
the day is to keep abreast with these developments,
and keep a sharp eye out for adverse eects that
may occur as a conse@uence of their usage.