INTRODUCTION 6
CHAPTER 1:PREPARATION FOR DESIGN 8The loom 11 Warp information 14The warping plan 16Spreading the warp onto the beam 17 The threading plan 18 The reed plan 19The lifting plan 24The weft plan 24Finishing details 27Inspiration and visual research 29
CHAPTER 2: PLAIN WEAVE 34Plain weave on two, three and four shafts 37Potential faults in plain weave 38Plain-weave variations 39
CHAPTER 3: TWILL WEAVES 44Twills over three shafts 46Twills using a straight draft over four shafts 50Twills using a point draft on four shafts 54 Distorted twills 56Combining twills 70Satin and sateen weaves 72
CHAPTER 4: COLOUR AND WEAVE 80 Visualizing the weave structure with colour 82Project 1: End and end warp stripe 84Project 2: 2 × 2 warp stripe 87
CHAPTER 5:WARP AND WEFT DISTORTIONS 90Grouped weft distortions 92 Grouped warp distortions 106
Single-end distortions 107Creating a diagonal line across the weave 112
CHAPTER 6: TEXTURED WEAVES 116Honeycomb (waffl e weave) 118Mock leno 124Creating patterns with mock leno 130Seersucker 132Crêpe weaves 136 Corded cloths 140
CHAPTER 7: EXTRA WARP AND WEFT PATTERNING 154Extra-warp patterning 157Extra-weft patterning 172Extra warp and extra weft combined 179 CHAPTER 8: DOUBLE CLOTH 182 Double plain interchange – warp yarns of
equal thickness 186Double plain interchange – warp yarns of
different thickness 188 Interchanging plain-weave blocks 189Double cloth with single-cloth weaves 192Creating patterns using double cloth 193Block point draft 199Pleats 202Pockets 215Ribbons 216
TROUBLESHOOTING 218GLOSSARY 219FURTHER READING 221INDEX 222CREDITS AND ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 224
CONTENTS