ulture of East Singhbhum District is rich and diverse and mainly tribal in nature. A unique tribal folk tradition exists in this district of Jharkhand. The valleys of Subernarekha River and Kharkai river and Dalma hill are inhabited by Proto Austroloid and mixed Dravidian communities from the time immemorial. Culture of East Singhbhum District comprises ancient as well as aboriginal elements. Since the land has not been completely dominated or influenced by any foreign culture, it has maintained its uniqueness and identity of the dignified folk culture which is reflected through its festivals and festivities. 

The languages in East Singhbhum District mostly come from three distinct stocks. One is the Munda Languages which includes Ho, Mundari, Santhali Language, Mahili, Bhumij and Kharia Language. The other is the Dravidian Tribal Languages which includes Oraon, Telugu Language, Tamil and Gondi Language. The rest are of the Indo Aryan languages stock which includes Hindi language, Urdu language, Bengali language, Oriya language,Gujrati language, Nepali language, Marwari language, Punjabi language, etc. The folk literature and songs among the Adivasis have been preserved from generation to generation by repetition even in the absence of the written script. The non-Adivasi folk literature and songs have been carried to Singhbhum either from other parts of Biharr or Orissa. Cinema songs have not gained that popularity which they have got in the other parts of Bihar. 

The pastoral songs are sung by women while working in the field at the time of transplantation of paddy and at the time of harvesting. The theme of the songs relates generally to love or to some incident of the past. They are sweet and melodious. Some of the major festivals of East Singhbhum District are Sharhul, Chait-Ganjan, Ind-Karam, Bandna, and Makar or Tusu Parab. Tribal communities of East Singhbhum District are very fond of ornaments. They inherently use various types of ornaments, like the ornaments made of bead, precious stones metals like gold and silver. Design is very simple like their art. 

The indigenous art of East Singhbhum District originated with folk spirit of Jharkhand. So, it is undividable from original Jharkhand folk art. The heritage of art is properly maintained by the indigenous people of the region. The folk art of Singhbhum embraces articles of daily use as well as those made on special occasions. The most important art forms are their wall embellishment and mask for Chhau (Indian folk dance). Traditionally they use various art forms like body painting (tattoo), stone cutting, bull painting (during Bandna), sculpting horse, elephant etc. for ritual purposes. The methods and materials used are traditional and handed down in the families, generation after generation and still persist with little alteration. The quality of

freshness, spontaneity, sincerity and simplicity of their art are appreciable. 

Scroll Painting: Folk painters of the district known as ' Paitkar Paintings ' make scroll painting. Mainly they

illustrate the primitive concept of "life after death". 

Chhau Mask: This mask has its own significance. The papier machei of Saraikela is popular for the mask for Chhau Dance. The methods and materials are separate from each other. 

Wooden Work: Jharkhand region was also known as Jungle Mahal because of its dense forests. The forests are rich with quality wood and the wood is used for producing the equipment required in housing, farming, fishing, etc. The artisans of this region have explored creativity in wooden work. Beautifully decorative door panels, toys, boxes, and other household articles are some finest examples of wood craft. 

Bamboo Works: The bamboo found in the thick forests of Jharkhand is of special quality. The artisans use these bamboos in different artifacts like, basket, hunting and fishing equipments. 

Potteries, weaving and stone carving are other popular art forms prevalent in East Singhbhum District. Different income-groups of people in the urban areas have a somewhat different type of daily life. But life in the rural areas is of more or less the same pattern for all classes. 

Celebrating diversity: Artistes from Jharkhand performing Chhau dance on the eve of the 25th Surajkund Crafts Mela in Haryana on Monday. - Photo: Rajeev Bhatt

Panchi and Parhan

INTRODUCTIONPanchi and Parhan is a traditional attire of the women of Jharkhand. The lower garment being panchi and upper, parhan. Jharkhand popularly known as, Vanachal (the land of woods) is well-cultured with a dynamic heritage of textiles and fabric. Jharkhand’s rich tribal culture has a unique and vibrant expression of taste and style. Panchi and Parhan is mainly worn by the tribes of Santhal Pargana of Jharkhand.BACKGROUND Origin and History

Jharkhand WomenThe clothing of Jharkhand draws its inspiration from the tribes that belong to the state and have been living there for generations. Some of the most prominent tribes of this region are Santhal Pargana, which dominates the way, the women dress in this region.The basic tradition of costume goes back to a similar sari and blouse. These sarees have the traditional imprints of the tribes and are made of basic cotton fabric.The traditional costumes of the tribal women are the Panchi, a rectangular piece of cloth about 3 metres in length, which is tucked at the waist, and the Parhan, the upper garment. The prints in these costumes depict the stories of various tribal stories, culture and art.Style & AttireA major chunk of the population is of the non tribal people who do not dress in the old conventional dress of cotton sari but some have adapted the same in their daily clothing such as salwar kameez, sari, etc. The costume consists of a skirt, usually ankle-length, wrapped around the waist which is the panchi and the parhan is a blouse worn above. There is a pallu-like cloth draped over one shoulder to complete the outfit. The attire is accessorized with jewelry to make it more vibrant during the religious or social festivals and events. The textiles and fabrics used for these garments have distinct prints depicting the tribal life, festivals, art and civilization of Jharkhand which adds grace and grandeur.Women love to accessorize what they wear and go along with the changing fashion trends and market while staying true to their traditional roots. The women usually use accessories that are made of gold and silver. Sometimes the use of beads and gemstones are also seen. The ornaments are beautiful and eye-catching and the women use artistic and colorful costumes in order to bring out the traditional grace of the attire. The women also love wearing different perfumes made out of natural leaves and flowers as an important part of their accessory while dressing up for any occasion.INNOVATIONSThe traditional sari of the Jharkhand women boasted upon the rich history of their culture. Hence, to retain the same and move forward with the world, the new trends were adjusted in the design. The

saris worn by the women are now seen to be made with silk and trendy textures and fabrics. The color combinations are more vibrant and the embroidery is more clear and beautiful demonstrating the tribal dances and tribal festivals.

Traditional Costume of JharkhandWith the launch of different textiles and fabrics such as the Tussar, Anjana and Swarnarekha silks, which are now prominent names in the fashion industry, have helped develop the traditional wear to match the evolving trends of fashion.Global InfluenceThe costume has captured the global market on a large scale. With the launch of different types of fabrics and textiles, especially of Tussar Silk, the state of Jharkhand has contributed greatly to the world of fashion and has become a hot source of inspiration for several designers as well.  The imprints of tribal art, festivals and culture are not restricted to the sari but are now seen on other kinds of modern costumes in the forms of dresses, shirts, skirts and scarves.