Department of Electronics Engineering

8/13/2019 Department of Electronics Engineering

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PREFACEFashion Technology viewed as one of the most demanding andprofessional career of word. It is in this context that Govt.

Polytechnic of U.P. began a new trade Named Fashion Technology

from 1996 the syllabusas if the course strikes a find balance

creativity and individual expression in the one hand commercial and

industrial in the other.

This course has an opportunity to work with the faculty on exciting

constancy project. In this project which is supplement at the paperfor the final examination 2013-2014 an attempt has been made to

the find a design for saree & jewelry.

In this project I have endeavored in the above direction with the

local availabele means and resources possibility for better

achievement is always there. The great vedic Literature we may

guide us in creating new design. Fashion Technology in my view is

art of imagination and creation

SWETA JAISWAL

F.D. & G.T. IIIrd Year

Govt. Girls

Polytechnic

Varanasi


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PRINCIPAL...................................................................................

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HEAD OF DEPARTMENT

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EXAMINAR

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PROJECT GUIDE

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THE PROJECT

WAY OF WORKING IN PRE-PLANNED METHOD

ESSENTIAL BAEGROUND FOR THE PROJECT

WORK

Project work and project report is must for proving of our

experience about any special topic. As my seleted topic are

divided in three parts Fabrication, Printing and Jewellery.

This report file is a symbol of highlighting of our about

defined topic, it is an exact way of self evaluation andskilled about the subject. Project work also inspires to try

and present our best. We can estimate the material and cost

decide to in manufacturing any garment. It makes working

systematic: -

Requirement of our project preparation.Working according to a plan.Have patience and creation.


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P-Planning

R -Raw Material

0-Organization

J- joint Effect

E--Economical

C- Construction

T -Technology

Planningor planned working is very essential to complete

the work successfully. Raw Material is the second most

important factor for project work. Raw material should be

cheap and of best quality because it affects our


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manufacturing. Organization is very necessary as good

and sound decision and constructive work are possible only

with skilled employees which work as in organization. JointEffect refers to the healthy contribution between the

worker and the management. It is required for good

production. Any project should be Economical. The plan

of the project should be such that it provides the best thing

in minimum cost and time. Besides these things we need

manufacturing unit, which comes under Construction.

Technology today is becoming the defining element of our

timing. It is playing a lead role in all creative worlds. The

success of technology depends on team-work.

Project working is based on certain fundamental principals.

It facilities the smooth working without any problems,

removing all known and unknown obstacles. It makes the

work systematic and tension free. By working in a planned

way we can save time and cost both, success of a project

depends on following points :-


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Work in plan way.Flexibility in the project, in other words there should be

availability of alternatively in the project itself.Hard work and responsibility.Precaution on security, skilled manpower, material and

machine.


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INTRODUCTION

It was the time when human beings were not civilized.

Flower, leaf, grass, barks and animal skin were the dress of

human being. Step by step as he become civilized, he

developed his attitude to eating, wearing and living. It is

guessed that dresses were being used since before 1,00,000

yr. ago. Step by step, slowly, fashion developed across

various ages in history.

Human beings moved through ages for the quest of fashion.

The clothing sense changed in every century with different

emperors and their reigns. The Mughal period brought a

new concept in Indian clothing. With the Britishers, western

look entered Indian clothing. The stitching, fitting of clothes

had its first impression on India. The ready-made garments

also slowly established in India,

British age was for a long time in India, so India copied these

dresses this new type, attractive dresses as paint coat ties

shirt, payajama, shots, night suit, etc. Public also accepted

this new type, attractive dress. It used as fashion -- race.


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English man always used different types of dresses for

different occasions as Night suit, Sports wear, Visiting wear

Office wear, Horse- riding wear, Party wear, etc. In this agefashion developed in India.

In last of 17th century (in 18th century) was that time when

wearing and sewing machine have developed. In this time

fashion had caught speed. First sewing machine workshop

named Jar Enterprises was established in Calcutta. It has

made first sewing machine named Usha, Singer in

England and Puff in Germany. It brought a revolution in

stitching.

Women started to make their dress attractive since the 19thcentury. After the First World War (1914), women made

her dressing simple. After Second World War (1943), man

and women both became conscious about their dress.

After Independence in 1947, India s partition gave

opportunity for Indian industry and fashion to grow.

Handloom industry was revived and other apparel

producing industries were set up. Fashion Institutes and


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ready made garments started to grow. Indian fashion, which

started to walk, grasping the finger of Paris, is not to lag

behind in competition from other countries fashion. Britishfashion was copied to India till then. After freedom, many

films presented inspiration for fashion. In 1950 to 1970, film

fashion was accepted by heart and sole and public welcomed

also. Indian fashion took a new turn from the period of 1980

to 1990. This was period of radical change in Indian fashion

world.

In this time Indian and other designers started to make

carriers and poison in track of fashion. They presented more

options in fashion and arranged many fashion shows,

fashion centers,. exhibitions, etc. These experiments meant

for fashions advertise were more successful. Now there are

many opportunity, success and money in this track; but this

requires talent and perseverance.

In 1980, Alneger Butric invented collection method of

garment through paper pattern. 20th century was the

revolution of fashion in western world. It was called

Roaring twenties. In last days of 20th century, Indian


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designers had been making in with fusion wear in

international market. Fusion wear contains traditional and

modern style.

The credit of foundation of Fusion goes to Vendal

Rodriguez, Reena and Geetanjali Kashyap.

Manufacturers of fusion, like Raghvendra Rathore, Ramesh

Nayar, Nahid Merchant, Aki Narula etc. want to get passion

of Vendal Rodrigz and David Abraham. Famous fashion

experts believe in originally that should be in this track.

Newness in working style is specialty of this track.

Indian civilization is the mixture of many cultures. Modern

dresses are the result of mutual relation between exchange

and business of different zone and their cultures.

In modern civilization, costume has an important place. The

clothing one wears plays an important part in one s

adjustment to the social group. The style of garment

construction, which exposes the beauty of natural fiber,

becomes popular and comes in fashion.


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FASHION DEVELOPMENT

In ancient and medieval times, clothing styles remained

practically unchanged for a century at a time. Fashion

change began to accelerate during the renaissance, as

western civilization discovered different cultures, costumes

and customers. As new fabrics and ideas became available,

people craved more for fashion and hence fashion continued

to increase. Some of the important landmarks in the history

of Fashion are mentioned below.

FranceThe center of fashion:-France s dominance over international fashion began in the

early eighteenth century. From then onwards the trend has

continued to reign and France is still the leader of world s

fashion and most fashion trends arise from there only.

Effects of the Industrial revolution on Fashion:-The Industrial Revolution marked the very beginning of

technological advances in textile and apparel production.

This also led to set up of industries for Mass Production of


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clothes. This mass production led to accessible fashion for

everyone at reasonable costs. The invention of Sewing

Machine also had a great impact on fashion industry. Thefirst Sewing machine was invented by Singer in 1851.

Retailing during the Nineteenth Century:Modern retailing had its roots in the nineteenth century

when affordable fashion was first made available to the

general public. The retail industry has changed the concept

of modern clothing with all types of fashion easily

approachable to everyone.

Changes caused by communication Industry etc:-Communications, leisure activities, labour, conditions and

industrial technology have a continuing effect on fashion.

Effect of World war-I on the status of women:-World War-I put women in the workforce and gave them

new rights and practical clothing. They developed new sense

of fashion and had the rights to pursue fashion as per their

will.


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Retail expansion in the early twentieth century:-The needs of the growing middle class stimulated both

apparel manufacturing and retailing. In order to reach every

section of the population, the retail industry needed to grow

extensively.

Effects of the 1930 depression on fashion:The depression in 1930 had a great impact on variousindustries; especially the apparel industry was totally at the

brink of being demolished. The experience of the great

depression of the 1930s still causes manufacturers and

retailers to worry at the sign of a recession.

Effect of world war-II on fashion:-The American economy did not entirely recover until World

War-II escalated production, which led to a widespread

growth of all forms of industries including the

fashion/apparel industry in order to boost economy.

Reactionary Post-war Fashion:-


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The post war era brought about a sub-urban lifestyle accent

on family life. The world came face to face with the fashion

styles existing in other places across the globe through thewar interaction.

Fashion styles across decades:-The post-war body boom had an increasing effect on fashion

change. Breaking with convention, young designers created

fashions for their own age-group. This was termed as the

Youth directed fashion of 1960s.

Another major development in the late 1960s and 1 970s

was the concept of Anti-fashion becoming the main style

statement.

The 1980s came to be known as the acquisitive time.

Overspending and over borrowing in the 1980s caused

many of the problems that the fashion business still faces

today.

In the last decade of the century, i.e. the 1990s, the

Americans have had to readjust to a less indulgent way of

life, which was referred to as value-orientation.


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THE FUNDAMENTAL ARTS PRINCIPLE OF GARMENTCONSTRUCTION IS FOLLOWING:

PROPORT1.ON: - Proportion means sizes are areas toone another or to a whole. It should have pleasing

relationship to the whole and to one another.

BALA.NCE: - Balance means sense of restfulness,balance in necessary for a sense of equilibrium, stability

and permanence. This restful effect obtained by

grouping shapes and colour around a center in such

way that there is equal attraction on each side of center.

RHYTHM:-.In design Rhythm means an easy connectedpath along with the eye may travel in my many

arrangement of - little, Item or colour, Rhythm relates

movement which can be obtained through repetition of

shapes, progression of sizes or through an easily

connected continuous line movement.FOCAL POINT OR OF INTEREST: - Agarment should

have a particular point of interest and subordinate

other details to it. By this the eye is carried first to the


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most important in any arrangement and after that the

others.

HARMONY: Similarity and harmony in garmentconstruction is as important as in music and decoration.

Harmony, produce an impression of unity through the

selection and arrangement of consistent object and

ideas, they are they are six aspects of harmony; they are

harmony of line, shape, size, texture, colour and idea.

Forms of garment have changed with change of time, place

and mental status of mankind. Now, everyday marks the

starting of a new fashion trend.


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SELECTED PROJECT

DESIGN & FABRICATION OF SARI

INTRODUCATION

India is a multi-traditional country. In the field of dressesalso there are several excellent ideas. Dresses also indicate

the specialty of the culture and the community. The

designs are different according to social and natural

conditions of the area. This basic formation remains the

same with slight modifications from time to time. New

experiments with regard to design modification and use of

new fabric are continuing daily.

India is one of the most prosperous countries of the world

for costumes. Here we find fusion of different culture.

People of different states wear different types of dresses.

Nowadays, frequent changes and experiments is taking

place in dress designing. But, today we live in Golden Era


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of Fashion. Fashion is all about expressing the various

moods of a person. When we talk of Indian women, the

first picture that crosses our minds is the picture of a ladyin a beautiful sari. Thus, Sari is the mirror of Indian

women.


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Today in our country, a major part of th export is in the

form of sari. Many new designs are made everyday, also,

many traditional form of art-work blend into thedesigning. Almost all designers strive for a delicate and

aesthetic balance between the richness of Indian Heritage

and elements of suitability. Keeping this point of view in

mind, I have selected the design and fabrication of a

sari with embroidery,as my project work.

Sari, as already mentioned, is symbolic of Indian cultural

heritage and is the embodiment of an Indian women.

The designing of sari is very challenging as the length is

very large. Designers are now trying fusion concepts and

designs in the designing of sari; but the traditional art-

forms such as Banarasi, Chikan, Taant, Kanchipuram, etc.

continue to have their predominant role. The Indian

Banarasi and Silk saris have a great international market.

Blouse, is the essential complimentary apparel

requirement with the sari. But, the blouse or choli has

no longer remained an accessory; instead it has created a

new style and fashion statement on its own. The glamour


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of sari is decided by the blouse that goes with it. The sari is

fixed, but, the blouse has gone through many changes and

adaptations. It has now become a matter of design in itself,and nowadays most energy is put into designing of the

blouse, to make it more appealing, sensuous, exotic and

beautiful.

WHY I CHOOSE THIS DRESS

In Indian culture Sariis a traditional dress, it represents

our culture and civilization. Women can wear this on any

occasions and it looks very beautiful and graceful.

In modern civilization costume has an important place in

our life. The clothing plays an important part in ones

adjustment to the social group he belongs.

Today Sari is used as a glamorous dress. It has been

rightly said that the history of female costume in India,

is a story of choli and the sari.This may not be deemed

quite correct as the sari is not so popular in certain parts

of the country, like Northern Region. But it must be


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HISTORY OF EMBROIDERY

Throughout the seventeenth century, Gujarat was

probably the most important center for fine commercial

embroidery in the worlds. Today, the Northern Gujarat to

Western Rajasthan and the Thar Parker district of Sind in

Pakistan is the worlds richest source of folk embroidery.

Marriage costumes, wall hangings, quilts, cradle clothes

and embroidered, appliqud, decorated with mirrors

sequins, buttons and shells.

Each caste passes on unchanged from generation, its own

district designs, colours and range of stitches which,

together with the cut of their garments and their

particular tie-and-die and block printed designs, from the

major visual part of a castes cultural identity.


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EMBROIDERY

Embroidery has a unique way of adding a personal touch

to your seeing project. It is a decorative work on a variety

of. fabrics. Women are the pioneers in creating excellent

delicate time. In India it has been used since 16 century,

painting, figurines fount in Indus Valley civilization and

sculpture. There is sufficient description and prove of

embroidery in our Religious book and Vedas using

various types of ethnic motifs and stitches make the

garment attractive and fascinating.

Embroidery should be chosen with great discrimination. It

can look garish and cheap unless very well chosen. In

present fashion world embroidered garments are

preferred both by men and women. The use of various

pattern and colourful threads, application of stitches and

different textures of the fabric to create master piece is thebeauty of the Indian craftsmanship.


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COMMONLY THREE TYPES OF EMBROIDERY

ARE USED:

Thread Embroidery.Metal Embroidery.Bead Embroidery.Metal Embroidery is regionally famous in various parts

of the world; for ex. Lucknow and Varanasi are known for

articles prepared for metal embroidery.

Bead workbecomes one of the popular documents one of

the popular documents than depicted the lifestyle custom

tradition of its creations. Moti (Pearl) and Beads in

predominate in Jalor district of Rajasthan.

Thread workcommonly used in all type of embroidery is

very popular in every state.


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DRAFTING METHOD

As cutting of fabric is must before stitching, so the drafting

is must for accurate cutting of fabric, according to

required measurement. It is a necessary for exact shape of

garments because drafting makes a man perfect in cutting

and stitching. Drafting is very important especially for

beginners because it provides the insight into the basic

cutting of body-shapes. The proper drafting also ensures

that the stitched garment is perfectly to shape. In

industries, the draft / pattern are must, as the operator

works merely by the shape as in the draft and he has no

idea about the final customer for the clothes.

For every garment, drafting should be applied. It takes

some precaution as:

> Fine and exact lining for marking.

> Should be according to measurement, style and look.

> Every part of garment should be shown in drafting.

All plots, dots and extra style should be aid in the drafting.


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ADVANTAGES

It makes easy to fitting of garments.Garment manufactured without alteration.Any learning person can make easily a garment.It is also useful for making Layout.

PATTERN DRAFTINGDrafting is the first and most important part of garment

manufacturing. Accuracy of drafting decides comfort fit

of garments. For the starts, the smoothly, we make the

drafting for particular garment. It s the surest way to

make fashions that fit and flatter our figure without alot of adjustment later. Before understanding of

construction it is essential to have full knowledge of

pattern drafting.

There are two method of drafting by which we can mark

perfect drafting for garment:-

Chest Measurement SystemDirect Measurement System


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METHOD AND PREPARATION OF

DRAFTING

Firstly draft the pattern according to description oforder book.

1/4, 1/6, 1/8, 1/12 Scale used to make drafting.Measurement should be kept in mind for draft

making.

Shape should be showed with the dotted line ( ).All parts of the garment like across back, sleeve,

color should be shown in drafting.

Wrong line should be cut with the help of Miltonchalk.

Every line and shape of draft should be clear.Drafting line should be sharp.Drafting line should be checked before cutting.Use different colour of Milton chalk to shown

design.


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Draft should be drawn always opposite side offabric.

ADVANTAGES

We get right proportion of cloth by making draft.Milton cloth should be used for practice of drafting.Pointed pencil should be used to make draft.The shapes are in practice by making draft.

HISTORY OF PATTERN DRAFTING

The first clothes were simply the skins of animals

draped around the human body for warmth in the area

of the world with a cold climate. But, the sense of

drafting persisted even then.

This hampered movement and left parts of the body

exposed; leading to a desire for shaping, in some way.

The early man used to cut the skins into shape for

his/her body. Methods were found to make skins more

liable and the biggest step forward occurred with the


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invention of the Needle, the first ones being made of

bone. After this, human mind dwelt upon ways to

continuously improve his drafting skills, as this wasuseful in other ways as well.

Now, this skill has grown more into a systematic

method. There is, however, as there has always been a

place for originality. The satisfaction of drafting for

pattern tO your own design that will fit without

alteration is both useful and satisfying. An

understanding of pattern drafting can assist he dress

designer to understand construction and at the other

end of the scale. The new corner to dress making can

gain an understanding of pattern components and be

able to assess if they will give the right results.

The equipments needed to draft a pattern are

inexpensive and easy to acquire, but demands high

craftsmanship. For a good drafter, the better the tools,

the better the results. The following points should be

kept in mind while using various tools for drafting:


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Tape measures and rulers must agree. Rulers must be straight.

Set squares must have a true 90 degree angle. Pencils should give a bold line and be suitable for

drawing curves.

MATERIALS & EQUIPMENTS USED IN THE

PROJECT

Pattern Master junior Pivot Pins Bradawl Pins Pattern Notcher Tracking wheel Sticking Tape Rule Master V 17 cm Shears 15 cm Shears Snips Small Scissors Tape Measures


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Stitching Machine Needles

Press Embroidery Frame ( Karchope) Hand Brush

In this project, I have used my own equipments, interment

rolls and materials as listed above. It may be noted that

these all are basic equipments that will be required by any

designer. The use of some of these equipments is as

mentioned.

The Stitching I Sewing Machine is usually of two types-

Manual &. Electrical. I have made use of the Manual SewingMachine, which can be operated by hands as well as by

pedaling. Scissors of various types and sizes are required

for cutting different profiles. Hand-Brush is used to clean

the thread pieces and chalk-linings. Cutting Table is used

for cutting the clothes. Measuring Square, Pattern Master

& Rule Master is used for drafting and measurement.

Needles of various numbers/sizes are used for stitching and

embroidery. Snips & Shears are used for shearing the


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cloth. Embroidery Frame (Karchope) is used for holding the

cloth tightened while embroidery. Pressing Table & Press

is used for fusing and pressing the garments. Tracing Tableand pins are used while tracing the pattern on to the clothes

for cutting.

The above equipments and some more are the basic

accessories of a designer. They help in the pattern making,

cutting and stitching of garments. I have also made use of the

above mentioned equipments in the course of my project.


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INTRODUCATION

All over the world jewellery is a significant item. It gives an

attractive appearance to human body. Jewellery is a

combination of goodness, attraction, brightness and

prosperity. The ornaments are practically worn on all parts

of body from the head to the toe. The design of jeweliery is

deeply related to the life style, of any country Jewellery

indicates social, physical and economical side of any country,

community and tribe. In my project-work, I have selected the

Designing and fabrication of contemporaryimitation ewellery

In India there are ornaments for almost all part of

human body. Some of these are worn regularly while others

are worn at specific occasions. Some ornaments are made

for ritual and ceremonial purpose. Even metal is specified.

The use of ornaments by women is universal, in many

community men s also wear them. Men wear them also for

ritual and ceremonial purpose.


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In turns of antiquity also India has the tradition of more

than 5000 years of Jewellery of gold and other material.

Indian Jewellery provides a glimpse of an unbroken traditionof adorn right from the beginning of the civilization. The

Harappa Excavation has yielded a number of ornaments:

these include bangles, earring, strings of bead, needle, hair-

pin and wig such other items. The famous statue of Dancing

Girldiscovered at Mohan-Jo-Daro is wearing a number of

references of jewellery. In the earliest known text, the

RigVeda, other Vedas and precious for Vedic period make

constant reference of ornaments of gold, silver and precious

gems. These were worn by God and Goddess.

Medieval period and specially during the Mughal the

ornaments and Jewellery making reached at new heights, the

most significance feature of Jewellery during the Mughal

period was the use of jewels. Beautiful Pieces of jewellery

studded with diamond, rubies, emerald and pearls are best

example of craftsmanship and skills of goldsmiths. This

tradition continues during the 18th and 19th century.


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The 20th century marked the fusion of all available

designs. The design of Mughals, jewel-studded work, etc.

were profusely and liberally mixed and presented and at thesame was liked and appreciated by the masses. The concept

of Artificial Jewellery was a great achievement of this

century. The use of Platinum as a precious metal was

started in full-fledge in this century. The Jewellery designing

was started as an industry by many big organizations, and

this has given new dimension to this art and this has made

jewellery designing into a great scope for upcoming

designers to undertake as their career.


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JEWELLERY USED FOR DIFFERENT PARTSOF BODYIn India there are ornaments for almost all part of human

body. Some of these are worn regularly while others are

worn at specific occasions. Some ornaments are made for

ritual and ceremonial purpose, even mental is specified the

use of ornaments by women is universal but in many

communities, men also wear them. They wear it for ritual

and ceremonial purpose; let us give you a brief account of

various types of ornaments worn on different part of women

body.

Ornaments used for the head are of three types.The first is

what was called Turbun jewels. These were not in common

use and were mainly by royalty and chiefs in their turban.

These are called Jigha or Sarpati other two head

ornaments are used by women of these one is for the

forehead (Tika). They comes in various shape and sizes and


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The third type is the Pendant (Locket). Mangalsutra is

worn by married women among Hindus.

Ornaments for hands can be divided in three categories-

finger, wrist and lower arm & upper arm. Armlets

(Bajuband) are worn in upper-arm. Bracelets, Wristlets,

Bangles, Churi, Kada are worn in lower arm. Rings are

worn in the fingers. Rings are worn with simple designs and

with ratnas on them, for warding off evil influences.

The waist is adorned by a thick waist ornament Kardhani

(Kamardhani) and generally worn by women. Leg is adorned

by Anklets, Toe-Rings Ghungroo. The leg ornaments

southern India; but are equally well.

All these ornaments are very important to Indian culture

and are very vital for the Indian bride.


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JEWELLERYJewellery and ornaments is most fashionable thing of our

country jewel is symbol of virtue. A combination of

goodness, attraction, brightness and prosperity. Therefore,

jewels are used in ornaments. Jewels also contain purity and

are said to purify human body and surrounding atmosphere.

From the view of astrology jewels affect the human thinking

and behavior. It is said that man becomes optimistic by using

jewels. Some jewellery made of Botanical material such as

Rudraksh, Tulsi item are also used and they have definite

effect on human body. For arrangements Ivory is also used.

The colour of jewels also plays important role on body and

mind.

TYPES OF JEWELLERY

JewelleryImitation JewelleryCostume Jewellery


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JEWELLERY:-

There are two types of jewellery:.-

Fine jewellery.R Stone jewellery.

Fine jewellery is costly because of the precious metal and

jewellery is often a life time investment its design is usuallyclassic only precious metals, such as gold, silver and

platinum are used in making fine jewellery. Precious gems

such as Diamond, Ruby., Emerald, Sapphire and natural are

used for stone Jewellery.

IMITATION JEWELLERY:-

Its description is only line Craft of Jewellery or Higher price

Jewellery or copied form of Jewellery.


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COSTUME JEWELLERY

There are two types of costume Jewellery:

Traditional JewelleryFashion Jewellery

(A). Traditional Jewellery uses base metals such as brass,

aluminium, copper, tin, lead, coated or bonded with gold orsilver.

(B). Fashion Jewellery utilize material such as used plastic,

leather, wood, beads ( call glass or clay ) fashion Jewellery is

often colourful and changes styles seasonally.

JEWELS :Jewels are the symbol of virtue. A combination of goodness,

attraction, brightness and prosperity. Therefore jewels are

used in ornaments. Jewels also contain purity are said to

purify human body and surrounding atmosphere. From the

view of astrology, Jewels affect the human thinking and.

behavior. It is said that men become optimistic by using


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jewels. The colour of jewels also plays important role on

body and mind.

In our ancient literature, from the ancient times, there are

two categories of jewels:

MAIN CATEGORY: - In this category there are ninemain jewels (Nav-Ratna) Diamond, Emerald, Yellow

Sapphire, Blue Sapphire, Ruby, Coral, Pearls, and Zircon,Cats eye.

SUB CATEGORY: -Other jewels are in this category.In total there are 84 kinds of jewels all over the world.

Besides jewels, the metals used for ornaments are gold

and silver. Gold has its own place in jewellery.

ORIGIN OF JEWELS:-Some jewels originate in the deep layers of the earth by

metamorphism rocks. These are taken out by mining. In

some cases, due to erosion in deep rivers, this precious

metals are carried from the depth of the earth and are

carried through the rivers and are found in the riverbeds.


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Such jewels often change their place of origin. Some jewels

originate naturally.

TYPES OF JEWELS:-There are two types:Mineral Jewels.Organic Jewels

MINERAL JEWELS:- Mineral jewels originate in

the depth of earth by metamorphism in the rocks. These are

formed by the natural processes going on in the earth s core.

They are obtained by mining. The raw-material that is mined

is then processed and after a lot of processing, the jewels are

obtained in their acceptable form.

ORGANIC JEWELS: - These originate in sea

animals such as coral and pearls. These are obtained from

the seabed after the animals die and their remains decay off

leaving the organic jewels in their natural form. After that,


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these are processed and polished in jewellery houses and

they are obtained in their precious form.

JEWELLERY MANUFACTURINGFor giving desired shape and design to metal and jewels to

convert it into jewellery, following two systems are in

existence:-

1. OLD PROCESS:- This method is applied by the

traditional gold smiths in whom derived shape is given to

gold or silver by meeting it and purring it in dye. Then it is

finished with the help of cutter and other ordinary tools.

2. MODERN PROCESS:-With the development of science

and technology nowadays new experiments are taking place

in jewellery manufacturing.

For designing the jewellery, now, CAD (Computer Aided

Design) method is also applied; although the conventional

designing process is still very much in practice.


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MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUEThe most common Gold jewellery manufacturing techniques

are:

Casting Chain making. Dye striking or dye stamping.


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CastingCasting is done in traditional manner and also with

modern process. It is the process of duplicating an

object by forcing molten gold into a mould. It

reproduces jeweliery quickly, practically and exactly.

This technique has greatly influenced and changed the

design and manufacture of jewellery. Since it can cast apiece of jewellery at for lower cost than having it crafted

by hand.Chain MakingIt connects loops of metal wire to form a single chain itslinks are assembled, soldered upto make them flexible,

while hand made gold chain are widely available today.

In India many chains are produced by computer

controlled machines capable to producing a wide

variety of different designs. Chains are also of many

types. Close slings herring bone chain, light rope chain,

Prince of Wales chain, Bachelor chain etc. are some

popular chain design.


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METALS MOSTLY USED IN JEWELLERY

GOLD:-Over the age no other metal has so fascinated mankind

as has gold and it has inspired some of world s most

brilliant and intricate craftsmanship. Gold is so soft and

malleable that one gram can be stretched to a wire

three and half km. long, one ounce or thirty one gram

can be hammered to a sheet so thin that it can cover 16

square mt. Since gold does not rust or tarnish, coins

found in sunken galleons centuries old, are still as

bright and shining as the day they were cast. Gold is oneof the major factors in the countrys economy.

SILVER:-

Silver is another metal that it is showing up in a lot of

jewellery as well important trade, because of thecomparative affordability of silver vis-a-vis other

precious metals, silver is featuring in an increasing

number of collections. Then jewellery trade is


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significance jewellery trends. Long modern ear rings,

Bold Ring and Cuffs are items to watch out for according

to trends forecasted by silver trust internationals.

PLATINUM:-

Platinum is called White Gold. Platinum is very hard

metal. It is very expensive metal. Platinum is riding the

crest of unprecedented demand. Platinum is one of thestrongest jewellery likes for the coming season right

across the world from the fashion centers of Europe,

America and the Asian continents. Platinum jeweilery

has given the jewellery designing industry a new

dimension. This is presently the most new concept in

jewellery designing.


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SELECTION OF JEWELLERY

Selection of jewellery is most important. At the time of

selection of jewellery the main factor to be remembered

are colour complexion of body, structure, dress and

mainly creating something new.

In the past, during feudal system, jewellery was used by

male and female at large scale. Still at present it is also astatus symbol. Now jewellery is the primary

requirement of women after marriage, it is considered

compulsory in respect of certain items.

The jewellery matching with dress always looks

beautiful such as bangles; anklets and earring look good

with sari and lehenga-chunari. Such ornaments looks

old are in more use because they arc cheaper or than

ornament of natural material like gold, diamond, pearl

etc. Moreover, it may be risky to keep the ornaments

made of such costly jewels. We should not wear such

ornaments which are inconvenient or which may be

harmful to our body. So, we should very careful in


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selecting and using such ornaments. Ornaments should

be carefully selected so that they may be convenient

and suitable with the outfit we wear.


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TIE AND DYEINTRODUCTIONClothes manufactured by Bandhej Method have

developed condition of dyeing. Harish Chant Ajanta

Cave wall pictures novels of middle age are proved that

Chunri and Lehria. Cloth are famous in all India

indifferent age.

CHUNRI: -Use of simple floral pattern and cheapmethod of Bandhej is called Chunri; light work

design of parrot, peacock and leaves in big size.

Chunri used mainly in Turbon. It manufactured rawand fast colour in Red and .Green.

BANDHANI: - It is costly variety of Bandhejworked cloth square shaped called Ghar. It used

also in auspicious. Horses, Elephants, Peacock

made in ghar cheaks made by golden and silver

shade.

GHATNI: - Silk sari of Bandhej work. This is verygood work and is widely appreciated.


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LAHERIYA: - Laheriya is also a type of Bandhejwork by using different colour dyeing it had got

this name. Double coloured, Triple coloured, Fivecoloured and Rainbow Laheriya.


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TYPES OF DYE

NATURAL DYE: -This is prepared by natural material (Leaf,

Flower, Roots, Stems and Fruits).

SYNTHETIC DYE: - This is prepared by synthetic and

artificial materials (as Copper-Sulphate and Acids, etc).

SELECTED PROJECT

TIE AND DYE WORK IN BED-SHEET

BANDHANI

Bandhana and Bandha are Sanskrit word meaning to tie,

but this tie and dye technique is internationally known by

this very name.

Malay-Indonesian name Plangi. When simply tied,

bandhani textiles are inexpensive and this is one of the

cheapest ways for women of the poorer communities to

dress in a colourful fashion.


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The dyeing of bandhani textiles is mostly carried out within

the home, mainly by women or young girls. The material

used is thin mill-made cloth, either a loosely woven silkknown as ,Georgette or cotton known as Malmal. The

white generally unbleached cloth is folded into four or more

layers before the dyeing commences.


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Once the pattern has been transferred to the cloth, the

dyeing and dyeing can be undertaken in five stages:

With the fabric lying loose on the tap, the pattern is tiedwith plain cotton yarns. The material is pushed up from

underneath with the long, pointed nail of the little finger

of the left hand. The knob of protruding cloth is then

very rapidly tied round six to eight times and thread led

on, uncut to tie up the next knob, and so on until all the

dots to be left white are tied. These ties will act as a

resist when the fabric is dyed, and upon untying will

leave a pattern of little white rings, each with a tiny

centre coloured by the last dye to be applied. (The

fabric is always dyed with the lightest colour first).

After the initial tying the cloth is usually dyed withyellow, or very occasionally another light colour.

Once it has been rinsed, squeezed and dried.The parts of the cloth that are not to be dyed by the

darkest colours are wrapped tightly in plastic to step

them from absorbing the dye.


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After the last dyeing processes have been completed,the cloth is washed and if necessary starched. Then the

cloth is properly folded and stored.

It should be noted the spots of colour can also applied by

hand, or by dip dyeing at different Stages of the process. The

technique is used a good deal in Rajasthan; but only

sparingly in Madhya Pradesh, Gujarat and Haryana.

The finished cloth of two or three bright colours against a

dark background is sold with its ties still intact. This shows

that it is a genuine bandhani and printed imitation.

CHOICE AND PREPARATION OF THE FABRICThe best materials for Tie and Dye printing work are

Cotton, Silk and Rayon, among this Cotton is the best suited.

The surface of the material should be as smooth as possible.

The choice of fabric depends on what one is going to do with

the fabric. This printing work cannot be done on synthetic or

on nylon mixed cloth because the colour does not engage

itself with the fabric and the printing is not fast. The print


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becomes fugitive and fades off on washing these printed

clothes. The best material for Tie and Dye printing work is

cotton, because the natural cotton fibers of cotton fabricform very strong bonding with the chemicals present in the

colours and the printing is very stable. The fabric should be

plain and starch free, if not, starch should be removed before

printing is done.


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IDENTIFICATION OF SUITABLE FABRICThe selection and identification of suitable cloth for the Tie

and Dye work is very important before starting the

work.The cotton cloth can be identified by doing certain

tests:

Burining TestThey do not melt and not form a bead.They give a light fluffy ash. They give odour of burning

paper.

They burn readily and burning continues even whenthey are removed from the flame.

Chemical TestThey are soluble in 75% Sulphuric acid solution or

cupra-ammonium hydroxide solution.They are soluble in concentrated Hydrochloric acid,

boiling 5% Sodium hydroxide solution or 70% acetone.


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They give blue colour when mixed with solution ofequal parts of concentrated Sulphuric acid and iodine

crystal.

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