P 120

DESCRIPTION

P 120, 4-DOOR

Body frameThe Volvo P 120 has an integral body so that there

A

i s no chassis frame. The body is composed of a

number of pressed steel plates, each of which forms

part of the supporting construction.

The body can be suitably divided up into the floor,

side sections, rear section, scuttle, roof, front mud-

guards, doors, luggage compartment and bonnet.

The floor and frame sections (Fig. 1) consist of a

front and rear floor plate (1 and 4) and an inner

cantrail (2), front and rear cross-members (8 and 6),

tunnel (3) and scuttle (Fig, 2). The floor plates are

welded together with the rear seat support. The

tunnel (3), which accommodates the propeller shaft

is spot-welded to the floor plates. The rear floor

plate has a longitudinal reinforcing member (5)

on each side at the bottom and between these a

number of cross-members. One of the cross-mem-

bers (6) is provided with an attachment (7) for the

rear axle tie rod, There is a flanged hole in the rear

floor plate for mounting the fuel tank, the upper

part of which forms part of the floor in the luggage

compartment. The scuttle section (Fig. 2) consists

of the bulkhead (7), wheel arches (5), front upper

cross-member (4) and side plates (3), as well as

lower cross-members (1 and 2). The bulkhead forms

the front transverse wall of the body and is shaped

with welded end pieces. Two front side members

(8) project from the front floor. At the front they

are joined together by means of a cross-member

(2) and at the rear they are connected to the front

cross-member under the front seats. Upper side

members (6) project from the upper corner between

the bulkhead and front pillar. These are spot wel-

ded to the front pillar, the front side plate and

wheel arch plates. The front axle member and

bumper support bars are attached to the side

members.

Fig. 2. Scuttle sectionFig. 1. Floor section (2- and 4-door)

1. Front floor plate2. I nner cantrail3. Tunnel4. Rear floor plate5. Reinforcing member

6. Rear cross-member7. Attachment for rear

8.axle tie rodFront cross-member

2.

Front lowercross-memberFront lower

3.cross-memberSide plate

4. Front upper

5.cross-memberWheel arch

6. Upper side member7. Bulkhead8. Front side member

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The front end is bolted to the upper side mem-bers, front cross-member and front pillar. The frontmudguards are pressed in one piece and boltedto the wheel arch plate. The front section formsthe front part of the front end as well as the airduct to the radiator. The body is noise- and heat-i nsulated. The insulation consists of "waffle" boardwhich is stuck on to the plate.

BonnetThe bonnet is pivoted at the rear on two hinges.I n the closed position, the bonnet is secured by abonnet lock fitted on the front section. The leverfor the bonnet lock is operated by means of acontrol placed underneath the dashboard insidethe vehicle.

Doors sand openings

The doors are built up of an outer and inner platetogether with door arch which is flanged and spot-welded in one unit. The hinges are fitted to thei nner plate. The doors are adjustable both longitu-dinally, vertically and laterally. The doors areprovided with a door check. This consists of a flatbar attached to the door pillar and runs against aroller in the door. In the open position the flatbar obstructs the movement of the roller and thuslimits the movement of the door. The door checksare fitted to the doors with screws. The press-button of the outside door handles operates a leverwhich in turn disengages a rotating toothed roller(tumbler). The inside door handles are fitted to theremote control which is attached to the inner doorplate with screws. The handle transmits the move-ment to the toothed roller by means of a link rod.The lock insert is fitted in the press-button on thedoor handle. The doors can be locked from insidethe vehicle by pressing down the locking knobs.The window winders are of the cable and chaintype. The movement of the window winding handleis transmitted to the window itself by a cable andchain which are joined together forming an endless"drive This is mounted on two pulleys and asprocket. The lower pulley is provided with a springdevice for tensioning.The luggage compartment lid is built up of an outerand inner plate. The catch for the locking devicei s fitted on the lower edge of the luggage compart-ment lid. The hinges are fitted at the upper edgeof the lid. The hinges are bolted to the plate underthe rear window through a reinforcing plate. TheFig. 4. Roof section (2- and 4-door)

On 4-door models the side section (Fig. 3)consists of the front pillar (9), intermediate pillar (11),rear pillar (6), intermediate and outer cantrails (8and 7), roof former (1), windscreen pillar (10), rearwheel arch (2) with wheel arch member (5), rearmudguard (4), back plate and joining plate (3). Thecantrail and wheel arch member are manufacturedof galvanized sheet metal.The roof section (Fig. 4) consists of a number ofpressed steel plates. The roof plates form theupper part of the scuttle section, windscreen open-ing, the roof itself, the opening for the rear windowand the upper limit of the luggage compartment.The front mudguards, front section and bonnetmake up the front end.

Fig. 3. Side section (4-door)

luggage compartment lid is counter-balanced withtorsion rods and can be set in any position whenopening. On chassis up to number 20999, the lock-i ng device is placed on the body below the lid,and on vehicles with effect from chassis number21000, the locking device is fitted on the lid.

Interior fittings and upholstery

FRONT SEATS, LATE PRODUCTION

The front seats are built up on a tubular frame. The

padding consists of foam plastic which is coveredby fabric-backed vinyl. The seat can be adjustedl ongitudinally by releasing the catch (3, Fig. 5), andsliding the seat. The seat can be adjusted verticallyat the attachment (4) which is provided with holesat different heights. The seat can be tilted to thedesired position by means of the adjusting device

(5). The backrest inclination is variably adjustableby means of the handwheel (2) which operates aneccentric. The seat is provided with an adjustablel umbar support (see Fig. 7), the tension of which

Bild 5. Front seat (4-door)

1. Adjustment of lumbar support2. Adjustment of backrest inclination3. Longitudinal adjustment4. Adjustment of seat height5. Adjustment of seat inclination

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i s adjusted with a screw (1, Fig. 5 and 3, Fig. 7)on each side of the backrest. The seat cushions areattached to the seat frame by means of press-fasteners.

REAR SEAT

The rear seat and backrest are built up in principlei n the same way as the front seats, although in thiscase the seat frame consists of a wooden frame.

DOOR UPHOLSTERY

The door upholstery consists of wood-fibre sheetinglined with non-woven padding and covered withupholstery material. It is secured to the door bymeans of clips. The front armrest is made of moul-ded plastic and is screwed to the inner plate of thedoor.

HEADLINING

The headlining consists of plastic material stretchedon roof ribs and secured in retainers fitted on theupper limit of the body sides.

COVERING FOR BULKHEAD AND FLOOR

The sides of the bulkhead are lined with millboardwhich is attached with clips. The bulkhead iscovered with plastic-lined felt matting. The floor iscovered with rubber mats.

Bumpers

The bumpers are composed of three parts and theupper joints are provided with overriders. The bum-

pers are fitted on four support bars, of which thefront ones are attached to the front side membersand the rear ones to the rear side members.

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P120

P 120,2-DOOR

Body frameThe body frame is largely similar to that of the4-door model. However, the side part is alteredso that there is no longer an intermediate pillarand the rear mudguard (3, Fig. 6) is extended. Theside section consists of front and rear door pillars(7 and 4), intermediate and outer cantrails (6 and5), roof former (1), windscreen pillar (8), rear wheelarch (2) and rear mudguard (3).

BonnetSee the 4-door model.

Doors and openingsSee the 4-door model.

Interior fittings and upholsteryFRONT SEATS

The front seats on the 2-door vehicle can behinged forwards in order to facilitate entry to therear seats. They are provided with catches (4) inorder to prevent tilting forwards (see Fig, 7).

OTHER INTERIOR FITTINGSConcerning other fittings and the bumpers, see the4-door model.

P 120 STATION WAGONBody frameThe front end is the same as that on the 2-door and4-door models, The floor section (Fig. 8) consists ofthe front (11), intermediate (3) and rear (4) floorplates, tunnel, inner cantrail (1), side members (6),front (10), intermediate (8) and rear (5) cross-mem-bers.The front and intermediate floor plates are weldedtogether at the rear seat support. The tunnel isspot-welded to the front floor plate (11). Two rearside members (6) are welded to the lower side ofthe intermediate (3) and rear (4) floor plates, oneon each side, and between these a number ofcross-members. One of the cross-members (8) isprovided with an attachment (9) for the rear axletie rod. Both the rear side members are providedwith attachments for the rear axle support arms.The spare wheel well (7), which is provided witha lid in the floor, is welded on the lower side ofthe rear floor plate. There is a flanged hole in thisfor the fuel tank.

Fig. 6. Side section (2-door)

1. Roof former2. Rear wheel arch3. Rear mudguard4. Rear pillar5. Outer cant rail6. I ntermediate cant rail7. Front pillar8. Windscreen pillar

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Fig. 9. Side section, Station Wagon

1. Roof former2. I nner frame for side

window3. Upper rear pillar4. Rear mudguard5. Rear intermediate

pillar

6. Rear wheel arch7. Front intermediate

pillar8. Outer cantrail9. I ntermediate cantrail

10. Front pillarFig. 7. Front seat (2-door)

1. Adjustment of seat inclination2. Adjustment of seat height3. Adjustment of lumbar support4. Longitudinal adjustment of seat5. Adjustment of backrest inclination

The scuttle section is similar to that on the 2- and4-door models.

The side section (Fig. 9) consists of the front pillar(10), intermediate pillar (7), rear section, interme-diate (9) and outer (8) cantrails, inner and outer

roof formers (1) and windscreen pillar. The rearsection is composed of the rear wheel arch (6), rearmudguard (4), inner frame (2) for rear side windowand upper (3) and lower rear pillar. The upper partof the rear mudguard is extended upwards andforms the outer frame for the rear side window.

Fig. 8. Floor section,Station Wagon

1. Inner cantrail2. Rear seat support3. Intermediate floor plate4. Rear floor plate5. Cross-member6. Side member7. Spare wheel well8. Cross-member9. Attachment for rear axle

support arms10. Cross-member11. Front floor plate

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Fig. 10. Roof section, Station Wagon

Fig. 11. Catch device for rear seat, Station Wagon

1. Eccentric2. Pull rods

3. Catch sleeve4. Handle

The roof section (Fig. 10) consists of the roofplate, windscreen member, two roof arches andrear member.

Doors and openingsThe doors on the Station Wagon are similar to thoseon the 4-door model. The tailgate consists of anupper and lower part. The hinges of the uppertailgate are attached to the rear edge of the roofsection and those of the lower tailgate are boltedin the rear cross-member. The inside of the lowertailgate is provided with a cover plate and matwhich are attached by means of screws. Both tail-gate sections are locked by means of a commonlock which is bolted on to the lower tailgate. Eachof the tailgate sections is provided with a supportfor holding it in the open position. Opening of theupper tailgate is facilitated by means of a gasspring, i.e. a piston which runs in an enclosed gas-filled cylinder. There are four different openingpositions.

Interior fittings and upholsteryFRONT SEATS

See the corresponding section for the 4-doormodel.

REAR SEATThe rear seat is built up of springs on a frame andhas foam plastic padding which is covered withvinyl. The seat cushion is provided with two hingesat the lower front edge and can if necessary betipped up against the front seats. It is covered witha mat underneath and forms the front limit of thel oading space when in the tipped-up position.The backrest consists of a back plate fitted withrubber bands. The padding consists of foam plasticand the upholstery of fabric-backed vinyl. The rearside of the back plate is provided with a mat andwhen folded down forms an extension of the floori n the loading space. The backrest is locked in thenormal position by a spring-loaded catch device,see Fig. 11, the handle (4) of which operates thelatches through an eccentric (1) and pull rods (2).The lower corners of the backrest rest partly on afixed catch and partly (on the left-hand side) on asprung catch.

BumpersThe bumpers are the same as on the 4-door modelexcept that the rear overriders serve as footsteps,the upper sides of which are rubber-covered.

P 120

REPAIR INSTRUCTIONSFRONT END

Front mudguardsThe front mudguard is removed by taking out thefollowing screws: the screw between the mudguardand stay at the lower side member, the screw bet-ween the mudguard and body side behind theabove-mentioned stay, the screws in the front sidesection and the screws in the upper side member.In addition, the headlamp with leads must be re-moved. Concerning removing the headlamp, seePart 3. Fitting is done in the reverse order.

Front sectionThe front section is attached to the front mudguards,wheel arch plates and the upper and lower cross-members.When removing, take out the headlamps, the screwsbetween the front section and splash guard underthe headlamp, the screws in the upper and lowercross-members and the screws in the wheel archplates.

Bonnet and bonnet lockThe bonnet is attached by means of screws in eachhinge. The bonnet is removed by taking out thescrews between the hinges and bonnet. The hingesare attached to the body with four screws each.All the holes in the hinges are oval in order topermit the bonnet to be adjusted.There are two types of bonnet lock. The early pro-duction lock (up to chassis number about 10 000)i s illustrated in Fig. 12. The bonnet lock is adjustedas follows.When the bonnet is locked the U-shaped catchshould lie right inside the lock catch groove andthe measurement B, Fig. 12 must not exceed 3 mm(0.12"). Any adjustment should be made on thecatch itself. It should be adjusted vertically so thatthe gap between the bonnet and the front section

Fig. 13. Bonnet lock, late production

of the body is 4.5 ± 1 mm (0.18 ± 0.04"). The tensionof the safety catch spring should be at least 0.1 kg(0.22 lb.) measured at D, Fig. 12, in order to moveit from its rest position.

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Fig. 14. Door check

When the bonnet is closed, the U-shaped catchshould meet the safety catch as close to the top aspossible, but not so high as to cause the hookto be pushed forwards, measurement C, Fig. 12.A small adjustment of 1-2 mm (0.04-0.08") canbe made by bending the safety catch. If a largeradjustment is found to be necessary, this meansthat the whole locking device has been displaced.I n this case the complete bonnet lock must be reset.The late production lock, with effect from chassisnumber about 10000, is illustrated in Fig. 13.The lock can be adjusted laterally and longitudinal-l y since the holes in the front section are larger thanthe diameter of the attaching screws. The lengthof the latch is adjustable by means of nuts. Thelatch and spring are lubricated with grease.

DOORSRemoving front door

1. Remove the door check, see Fig. 14. Theattaching bolts for this are accessible afterthe side insulation material on the body hasbeen removed. The door check can also beremoved by unscrewing the guide roller andpulling it off. In order to get at the guideroller, the door upholstery must be removedsee under "Removing the door handle andupholstery".

2. Unscrew the four countersunk screws whichhold the door to the upper and lower hinges.The door sealing strip must be moved in orderto get at the hinge screws. This is done byreleasing the two plates over the hingesto which the strip is glued and carefully pullingto one side, see Fig. 15. When doing this,make sure that the rubber strip does not comeaway from the plate or door. Fig. 16. Removing armrest

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Fig. 15. Plate over hinge

Fitting the door is done in the reverse orderto removing. Since the holes in the door arelarger than the diameter of the bolt, and thenut plates are movable, the hinge attachmentcan be adjusted both vertically and laterally.The door is adjusted longitudinally at thehinge attachments in the body.

Removing rear door(See also under "Removing front door")

1. Remove the door check. The attaching boltfor this is accessible after the rubber plug inthe centre pillar has been removed.

2. Remove the plates over the hinges.

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Fig. 18. Window winder with circlip

3. Remove the screws in the hinges and lift offthe door.

The holes in the centre pillar are larger thanthe diameter of the bolts. When running nutsare used, this enables the door to be adjustedboth vertically and laterally.

Removing door handle and upholstery1. Remove the armrest, which is attached with two

screws accessible from underneath the armrest,see Fig. 16.

2. Remove the door handle and window windinghandle. These are removed by prising out thelocking washer which holds them with toolSVO 2297, see Fig. 1 7. The window winder,locking washer and circlip are illustrated inFig. 18.

3. Remove the upper trim moulding. This isattached to the door edges by four screws,see Fig. 19.

Fig. 19. Removing the upper trim moulding

Fig. 17. Removing and fitting the window winder

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Fig. 22. Removing the lock handle

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Fig. 20. Removing the door upholstery

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Fig. 21. Removing upper screw for guide rail

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4. Remove the door upholstery by carefully app-lying a screwdriver or similar under the pad-ded edge and then prising outwards, whenthe upholstery will come away, see Fig. 20.

5. Remove the paper protectors which are fittedover the holes in the inner plate of the door.

Door locks and door handles

REMOVING DOOR LOCKS AND LOCK HANDLES

Carry out operations 1-5 under "Removing thedoor upholstery".

1. Unscrew the two screws which hold the guiderail for the window. The screws are accessiblefrom the edge of the door as shown in Fig.21. Lift out the guide rail.

2. Unscrew the three screws which hold the innerhandle mechanism (remote control).

3. Lift off the link arm between the lock knobroller mechanism and disconnect the link forthe outer handle from the roller mechanism.

4. Unscrew the four screws on the edge of thedoor which hold the toothed roller mecha-nism.

5. Lift off the door with remote control.

6. The door handle is removed by unscrewing thetwo screws which hold it, see Fig. 22. Thescrews are accessible from the inside of thedoor and are most easily removed after thewindow has been let down or taken out, seeunder "Window winder with mechanism".

Fig. 23. Dismantling the lock handle

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DISMANTLING THE DOOR HANDLES1. Unscrew the two screws which hold the press-

button and lock plunger to the door handle,see Fig. 23.

2. Press out the locking pins as shown in Fig. 24.3. Turn the key backwards and forwards a few

times in the press-button at the same time aspulling outwards, when the lock plunger willrelease and can be pulled out as shown inFig. 25.

FITTING AND ADJUSTING THE LOCKS

Front door

1. Fit the lock (10, Fig. 26) with remote control(12) in the door without tightening the screws.

2. Adjust measurement A, Fig. 28 to 15±0.5 mm(0.59 ± 0.02") by turning the lock. Tighten thelock hard. If it is not possible to obtain thecorrect measurement for A by turning the lockafter it has been tightened up as near to A aspossible, the remaining adjustment is doneby bending the lever (5). Measurement A mustbe checked within the specified tolerances.

3. The remote control (12) with split pin (11)fitted is pushed backwards so that the lever(9) stops against the lock (10). The remotecontrol is screwed on in this position. Removethe split pin (11).

4. Fit the lever (7) for the inner locking knob (15).

Fig. 26. Adjusting the front door lock

1. Outer handle2. Lock nut3. Adjusting screw4. Pin (for checking)5. Lever6. Link7. Lever.8. Lever9. Lever

1 0. Lock11. Split pin12. Remote control13. Locking spring14. Lever15. Locking knob

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Fig. 25. Press-button dismantled

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Fig. 24. Pressing out the locking pin

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Rear door

1. Fit the lock (11, Fig. 27) with remote control(13) in the door without tightening the screws.

2. Adjust measurement A, Fig. 28 to 17±0.5 mm(0.67 ± 0.02") by turning the lock. Tighten thelock hard. If it is not possible to obtain thecorrect measurement for A by turning the lockafter it has been tightened up as near to A aspossible, the remaining adjustment is done bybending the lever (5). Measurement A must bechecked within the specified tolerances.

3. The remote control (13) with split pin (12)fitted is pushed backwards so that the lever(10) stops against the lock (11). The remotecontrol is screwed on in this position. Removethe split pin (12).

4. Fit the lever (17) and connect the link (16)to the lever (1).

5. Set the lever (7) in the locked position, i.e.backwards against the lock and lever (14) inthe rear catch position. Check through thecontrol hole (12) that the lever moves fullyto the catch position. In this position the lever(14) is locked to the link (16) with screws atthe clips (15). Check that the link (16) doesnot rub against the inner plate of the door.On the other hand it must not be bent out somuch that it rubs against the screws of thei nner trim moulding.

Fig. 27. Adjusting the rear door lock

1. Outer handle

2. Locknut3. Adjusting screw

4. Pin (for checking)

5. Lever

6. Link

7. Lever

8. Lever9. Locking spring

10. Lever

11. Lock

12. Split pin13. Remote control

14. Lever

15. Clip

16. Link

17. Lever18. Locking knob

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Fig. 29. Striker block

'Fig. 28. Adjusting measurements for lock

FITTING AND ADJUSTING THE OUTER HANDLES

Front door, early production

1. Check that measurement B, Fig. 28=15± 1 mm(0.59±0.04"). Adjust if necessary. Tighten thel ocknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig. 26.

2. Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.

3. Connect the link (6) to the lever (14). Adjust-ment is done by selecting one of the threeholes so that the recess and hole in the outerhandle coincide. This is done by inserting apin (4) into the hole in the outer handle asshown in the figure. They should come inline when the locking knob (15) is presseddown, i.e. the lever (7) is pressed down andthe lever (8) moved backwards against thelock.

Late production

1. Check that the measurement B, Fig. 28=1 5± 1 mm (0.59 ± 0.04"). Adjust if necessary.Tighten the locknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig.26.

2. Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.

3. Connect the link (6) with the lever (14). Thelever in the handle is set in such a positionthat a pin (4) (3 mm=0.12") can be insertedin the hole in the handle. Adjusting is doneby screwing the link up or down so that theloop of the link (6) comes in line with thel ever (14) on the lock.

Rear door

Late production1. Check that the measurement B, Fig. 28= 15±

1 mm (0.59±0.04"). Adjust if necessary.Tighten the locknut (2) on the screw (3), Fig.27.

2. Fit the outer handle (1) with link (6) fitted on.

3. Connect the link (6) with the lever (8). Thel ever in the handle is set in such a positionthat a pin (4) (3 mm=0.12") can be insertedi n the hole in the handle. Adjusting is doneby screwing the link up or down so that theloop of the link (6) comes in line with thel ever (8) on the lock.

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Inner locking knob

With the locking knob in the pressed-down posi-tion, measurement C, Fig. 28 should be 12± 1 mm(0.47 ± 0.04") for both the front and rear door.

STRIKER BLOCK

The striker block (Fig. 29) is made of steel andfitted with a floating nut plate. The block isadjustable since the holes in the body have alarger diameter than that of the attaching screws.The vertical position of the striker block is checkedby closing the door with the press-button of theouter handle pressed in, when the dowel pin shouldslide correctly into the striker block. N.B. This shouldbe done immediately after the striker block hasbeen fitted.

Ventilation windows

REMOVING AND FITTING

The ventilation window is built in with one of theguide rails for the winding window. A suitable pro-cedure for removing the ventilation window withsealing strips is as follows:

1. Carry out operations 1- 5 under "Removingthe door upholstery".

2. Unscrew the five screws which hold the win-dow to the door and door arch, see Figs. 30and 31.

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Fig. 30. Attaching screw for ventilation window

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Fig. 31. Upper attaching screw for ventilationwindow

3. Unscrew the screws which hold the guide railfor the winding window, see Fig. 32. This onlyapplies to the extended guide rail on the frontdoors.

4. Remove the upper guide strip with a screw-driver as shown in Fig. 33.

5. Lift up the window as shown in Fig. 34.

Fig. 33. Removing upper guide strip

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Fig. 32. Attaching screw for winding windowguide rail

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Fig. 34. Lifting out the ventilation window

Window winder with mechanismREMOVING AND FITTING

Carry out operations 1-5 under "Removing thedoor upholstery".Carry out operations 1-5 under "Ventilation win-dows, removing and fitting".

1. Remove the clip which holds the carrier on thewinding cable to the rail under the windowand lift it up as shown in Fig. 35. On the reardoors there is no carrier and the clip fitsdirectly on the winding chain.

2. Release the cable tensioning device byslackening the nut for the catch screw on thelower pulley. Lift off the cable and chain.

3. If necessary remove the upper pulley, lowerpulley with tensioning device and windingsprocket itself. The winding sprocket is remov-ed by unscrewing the four screws, Fig. 36,after which the sprocket with shaft is lifted out.Before fitting the winding window, make surethat the guide strips and seals are in goodcondition. Worn or, damaged parts must bereplaced.The cable for the winding mechanism shouldbe tensioned well but not too hard. Lubricatethe cable and chain with grease and the pulleyand winding sprocket with oil.After fitting, check that the window runs easilyi n the guide rails.

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Fig. 35. Removing clip for carrier

Sealing strips

A. BONDED STRIPS

The following procedure is recommended when fitt-ing new rubber strips:

1. Remove the old strips.

2. All traces of old adhesive should be care-fully removed from the metal surfaces withpetrol or similar. It is most important to carrythis out carefully since no residue from oldadhesive must be left on the metal, but at thesame time care must be taken to make surethat the paintwork is not damaged by thesolvent used. (Requirements: clean rags,wooden putty knife).

3. The new rubber strips should be thoroughlycleaned with petrol, methylated spirit or simi-l ar. (Requirements: clean rags, fibre brush).

4. After they have dried, the rubber strips shouldbe coated with Dekalin TH or equivalent andthen allowed to dry to a non-tacky state, whichusually takes about 15 minutes. (Requirements:thick hair brush).

5. The metal surfaces to which the rubber stripsare to be attached are then coated withDekalin TH. (Requirements: thick hair brush).

6. The treated and non-tacky rubber strips arethen pressed on to the newly-coated adhesiveon the metal.

7. The rubber strips should be pressed firmlyagainst the metal surfaces so that there is noair trapped in the joints.N.B. Wait for at least 15 minutes after the stripshave been applied before closing the door.

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Fig. 36. Removing sprocket

B. STRIPS ATTACHED WITH FASTENING RAIL

On late production vehicles the sealing strip isattached by means of a fastening rail which is spot-welded to the door.The sealing strip is removed by pulling it outwards,when the ridge of the strip releases from the rail.When fitting the sealing strip, one of the ridges isplaced in position in the rail, after which the otherridge is pressed down into the rail with the helpof a screwdriver. This is moved along the rail asshown in Fig. 37.

Fig. 37. Fitting sealing strip for door

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Luggage compartment lid, 2- and4-door modelsThe luggage compartment lid is mounted on twohinges, both of which are attached by means ofthree screws to the inner plate of the lid and withtwo screws to the plate under the rear window.The holes in the part of the hinges fitted in the lidare oval so as to permit longitudinal adjustment. Inorder to obtain lateral adjustment the holes in thebody under the rear window are made larger thanthe diameter of the screws. These screws are access-i ble after the insulating material round the edge ofthe rear window has been removed.When removing the luggage compartment lid, ten-sion must first be removed from the torsion rodswhich support the lid.Apply tool SVO 2572 as shown in Fig. 38 and prisedown the loop on the torsion rod until the catchreleases. Move aside the catch and let the torsionrod move back. Remove the torsion rod attachmentin the body. The other end of the tool is used asshown in Fig. 39. Prise upwards with the tool sothat the bent part of the torsion rod slides out ofthe groove. Hold the tool in this position and graspthe middle of the torsion rod with one hand andpull it outwards as shown in Fig. 39 so that itreleases from the bracket when the tool is movedback and the torsion rod is relieved of tension.The locking device on vehicles with chassis num-bers lower then 21000 i s attached with two screwsand a circlip on the body under the luggagecompartment lid. The locking device is releasedby pressing in the lockable press button. The lock-ing clamp on the lower edge of the luggage com-partment lid is adjustable in order to permit varia-tion of the tightness with which the lid can bel ocked.When removing the lock, the two screws at theedge of the luggage compartment opening in thebody are removed as well as the circlip round thelock press-button, see Fig. 40. When fitting, thecirclip is first fitted and then the screws. Make surethat the rubber washer round the lock button sealsproperly.The locking device on vehicles with effect fromchassis 21000 i s attached to the luggage compart-ment lid by means of screws. The catch fitting isattached to the body with two screws. The lock isadjusted by screwing the link (5, Fig. 41) up ordown. The lock cylinder (2) is attached to thehandle with a nut. The catch fitting is providedwith oval holes in order to permit adjustment.

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Fig. 38. Releasing the torsion rod

Fig. 39. Removing the torsion rod

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Fig. 40. Removing circlip for lock press-button

TAILGATE, STATION WAGONUpper tailgateREMOVING THE UPPER TAILGATE

1. Unscrew the upper support from the tailgate.2. Late production. Unscrew the gas spring from

the tailgate.3. Carefully pull down the headlining at the rear

edge beginning in the middle and continuingoutwards towards the corners. The teazel stripat the corners is bent out slightly with a puttyknife. The fabric is then carefully lifted off theprojection of the teazel strip with the helpof the putty knife. Remove the headliningfabric up to the rear stretcher as shown inFig. 42.

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4. Unscrew the nuts for the hinges and removethe latter.

FITTING THE UPPER TAILGATE1. Place the hinges with packings in position.

Screw on the nuts, adjust the position of thetailgate and tighten the nuts.

2. Fold the plastic strip for the headlining asshown in Fig. 43 and press it up into positionwith the help of the putty knife. Attach thefabric at the corners as shown in Fig. 44.

3. Adjust the teazel strip against the body witha hammer and piece of rubber as shown inFig. 45.

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Fig. 42. Headlining fabric removed to exposeupper tailgate hinge nuts

Fig. 43. Folding and fitting rear plastic strip

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Fig. 41. Lock for luggage compartment lid,late production

1. Handle 5. Link2. Lock cylinder 6. Guide spring3. Lock mechanism 7. Lock4. Rubber bush 8. Catch fitting

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Fig. 44. Fitting headlining fabric in corner

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Fig. 45. Adjusting teazel strip

Fig. 46. Window moulding

A. IndentationsB. Rubber stripC. Sealing compoundD. Rubber strip

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TRIM MOULDINGS

Waist mouldingsThe waist mouldings, and the upper trim mouldingfor the door on the P 120 2-door model, areattached with clips. The mouldings are removedwith the help of a putty knife with which they arecarefully unfastened. Before fitting the mouldings,the holes should be filled with sealing compound.

Window mouldings

REMOVING

Wind down the window. Apply masking tape orsimilar as shown in Fig. 47 in order to protect thepaintwork. From inside, place a screwdriver underthe rear edge of the moulding in line with the in-dentations which secure it, see Figs. 46 and 48. Prisecarefully upwards with the screwdriver and at thesame time pull outwards and downwards with thehand so that the rear retaining spring can be hookedoff with SVO 2297, see Fig. 49. Carefully pull outthe moulding backwards.

FITTING

Stick the profile rubber strips at both ends of thewindow moulding and apply sealing compoundalong the inner section of the moulding, see Fig.46.Place the retaining springs in position and applysealing compound as shown in Fig. 50. Push thewindow moulding in position under the rubber stripof the ventilation window as shown in Fig. 51. Liftthe inner ridge of the moulding over the metaledge of the door and press down so that the inden-tations, Fig. 46, locate in the holes in the sheetmetal edge. Press up the retaining springs withSVO 2297, see Fig. 52.

Moulding for rear side window,Station Wagon

When fitting the clips for the moulding, one of thelegs is inserted in the recess in the moulding, theclip pressed together and the other leg inserted.Apply sealing compound over the fastenings andpress the moulding into position.

Fig. 47. Application of masking tape

Fig, 48. Removing window moulding

Fig. 49. Removing spring

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Fig. 50. Position of springs

Fig. 51. Fitting window moulding

Fig. 52. Fitting spring

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Fig. 53. Removing trim moulding

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Fig. 55. Removing trim moulding

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Fig. 54. Removing trim moulding from rubber strip

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Trim mouldings, windscreenREMOVING

1. Remove the trim moulding from the rubberstrip by inserting a moistened nylon puttyknife between the strips and moving it all,round, see Fig. 53. (Do not pull off the trimmoulding).

2. Push over the joining pieces to one of thehalves of the moulding.

3. Remove the trim moulding by prising out theridge of the rubber strip from the trim mould-

i ng with a moistened wooden putty knife andreleasing the trim moulding in the middle withanother putty knife as shown in Fig. 54. Priseoff the moulding carefully while releasing therubber strip with the other putty knife, see Fig.55.

FITTINGMoisten a 4.0 mm (5/32") leather cord in soap solu-tion or paraffin and place it in the groove of therubber strip for the trim moulding. Place one halfof the trim moulding in position and hold it therewhile pulling the leather cord out upwards overthe moulding so that it is pressed against therubber strip as shown in Fig. 56. Push on thej oining pieces and repeat the procedure with theother half of the moulding. Adjust the position ofthe joining pieces over the joints.

Trim mouldings, rear window[ 2- and 4-door models]REMOVING

1. Push the joining pieces at the lower cornersbackwards. Release the lower trim mouldingby pressing it upwards out of the rubber stripwith a wooden putty knife. Pull the trimmoulding upwards carefully and follow roundwith the putty knife.

2. Release the side mouldings in the same waywith the putty knife and remove them. Removethe angular joining pieces by pulling themdownwards and turning inwards at the sametime.

3. Remove the upper trim moulding in the sameway as the lower one.

FITTING1. Moisten a 4.0 mm (5/32") feather cord in soap

solution or paraffin and place it in the grooveof the rubber strip for the trim moulding. Startand finish at one of the upper corners.

ings".3. Release the rubber strip both from the wind-

screen and sheet metal by inserting a woodenputty knife moistened in synthetic washingsolution (the putty knife should be moistenednow and then during the course of the work)between the rubber strip and windscreen andbetween the rubber strip and sheet metalrespectively.

4. Start removing the rubber strip in the upperleft-hand corner by prising the rubber stripover the sheet metal edge from inside andat the same time carefully pulling out the stripfrom outside with a pair of grips as shown inFig. 57. Then carefully pull off the strip byhand all round as shown in Fig. 58 and removethe windscreen.Remove all sealing compound from the sheetmetal. If it has dried on, first carefully scrapeoff the sealing compound and then wash cleanwith naphtha. Check that the sheet metal edgeis not deformed. If the sealing compound hasnot dried on, clean the rubber strip with naph-tha, otherwise replace it.

FITTING THE WINDSCREEN1. Place the windscreen on a stand as shown

in Fig. 59. Moisten the outer edge of thewindscreen and fit the rubber strip startingat one of the corners. Adjust the strip so thatit lies correctly all round.

Fig. 57. Releasing rubber strip

Fig. 58. Removing rubber strip

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Fig. 56. Fitting trim moulding

2. Place the upper trim moulding in position andpress it up against the rubber strip. Pull outthe leather cord and press in the trim mould-ing at the same time. Fit the angular joiningpieces.

3. Press on the side mouldings and push themup into the joining pieces. Fit the side mould-ings in the same way as the upper trimmoulding.

4. Fit the lower trim moulding in the same wayas the upper one. Fit the lower joining pieces.

WINDOWSWindscreenREMOVING THE WINDSCREEN

1. Remove the interior rear view mirror, interiortrim mouldings round the windscreen and thewindscreen wiper arms. Place protective pad-ding over the bonnet, front seats and back-rests.

2. Remove the trim mouldings as described inoperations 1-3, "Removing the trim mould-

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Fig. 60. Placing cord in rubber strip

Fig. 61. Fitting windscreen

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Fig. 62. Applying sealing compound

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Fig. 59. Stand for windscreen when fittingrubber strip

A. Sheet of plywood,15 mm(19/32")B. Foam plastic, 1-1.5"C. Storage compartmentD. Hooks for sealing compound gun

2. Fit a cord (preferably terylene) of a suitablesize in the groove of the rubber strip for thesheet metal edge, beginning at the top centreas shown in Fig, 60.

3. Place the windscreen in position with rubberstrip fitted. Wearing working gloves, carefullystrike the windscreen a few blows with thepalm of the hand so that it makes good con-tact all round. Then carefully pull out the cordfrom inside.

4. This will cause the rubber strip to "creep"over the sheet metal edge as shown in Fig. 61.It may sometimes be necessary to adjust theposition of the windscreen with the palm ofthe hand. If the cord is difficult to pull out, thismay cause damage to the strip, in which casestrike the windscreen from inside with thepalm of the hand and vice versa if the rubberstrip does not "creep" over the edge of thesheet metal properly.

5. Check that the rubber strip seals well allround. If necessary adjust the position of thewindscreen both vertically and laterally bystriking with the palm of the hand.

6. Fit the trim mouldings as previously described.7. Seal the joints between the rubber strip and

windscreen and rubber strip and sheet metalwith sealing compound using a gun with a flatnylon nozzle as shown in Fig, 62. Make surethat the sealing compound fills the joint well.Scrape off surplus sealing compound andwash the windscreen and sheet metal withnaphtha and then polish clean.

8. Fit the interior trim mouldings, rear view mirrorand windscreen wiper arms.

Rear windowREMOVING AND FITTINGSee the corresponding sections under the heading"Windscreen".

Rear ventilation window, 2-door modelREMOVINGUnscrew the two safety belt attaching bolts, removethe entry handle and lift off the cover plate, afterwhich the ventilation window hinge screws areaccessible, see Fig. 63.

SEATS

Front seats

REMOVING, EARLY PRODUCTION

Lift out the seat cushion. Press down the catch foradjusting the longitudinal position of the seat andpush the seat forwards until the slide rails releasefrom the frame. It may be necessary to lift the pullwire for the catch halfway between the slide rails.An intermediate production type has a plastic wed-ge which limits the movement of the catch. Thiswedge must be taken out before the seat can beremoved.

REMOVING, LATE PRODUCTION

Unfasten the press-button which holds the seatcushion to the frame and remove the seat cushion.Unscrew the four attaching screws for the slide rails.Lift off the seat.

ADJUSTING THE FRONT SEAT, LATE PRODUCTION

1. The inclination of the seat is adjusted with theeyebolt (1, Fig. 64) at the front edge of theseat. Slacken the adjusting screw and adjustthe eyebolt to the desired position.

2. The height of the seat is adjusted by attachingthe rail in a suitable hole in the bracket (2).

3. The lumbar support is adjusted with the screw(3). On a number of earlier vehicles with lum-bar support where the adjusting device doesnot have a countersink, the adjusting screwcan most easily be found by pressing the up-holstery at the adjusting screw hole slightlydownwards and backwards.

Rear seat, Station Wagon

REMOVING THE BACKREST

Release the catch and tip the backrest slightly for-wards. Move aside the nylon washer at the lowerleft-hand corner of the backrest and insert a narrowscrewdriver as shown in Fig. 65. Press in the conicalcatch pin and lift out the backrest.

Fig, 63. Attachment of rear ventilation window

Fig. 64. Front seat

1. Adjustment of seat inclination2. Adjustment of seat height3. Adjustment of lumbar support4. Longitudinal adjustment of seat5. Adjustment of backrest inclination

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Fig. 65. Releasing catch for removing rear seatbackrest on Station Wagon

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Fig. 66. Underside of rear seat backrest,Station Wagon

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To remove the upholstery, undo the lacing at thelower edge, open the zip-fastener, after which theupholstery can be removed, see Fig. 66.When fitting the backrest, place the nylon washeron the pin and fit the right-hand pin in position.Move the left-hand, conical pin towards the upperside of the fitting, move the nylon washer over thefitting and press down the seat. If necessary, thecatch can be moved aside with a screwdriver.

REMOVING LOCK MECHANISM FOR BACKREST

The lock mechanism is accessible after the lacingat the lower edge of the backrest has been undone,the zip-fastener opened, see Fig. 66, and the up-holstery removed.

UPHOLSTERY

Repairing inner roof (headlining)STRETCHING THE HEADLINING FOR REMOVINGSMALL HOLES AT THE OUTER EDGE

I n most cases where there are small holes at theouter edge of the headlining it is sufficient just tostretch it.

1. Remove the interior light, sun visors, rear viewmirror and upper part of the windscreen trimmoulding. Remove the side mouldings asshown in Fig. 67.

2. Release the trim strip. Prise out the teazel stripwith the help of a putty knife.

3. Pull out the trim strip as shown in Fig. 68 andremove the headlining from the teazel stripwith the help of a putty knife.

4. Stretch the headlining so that the damagedpart can be tucked in behind the teazel stripas shown in Fig. 69. The headlining should bestretched well, but not too hard so that itwrinkles.

5. Place the trim strip • i n position and knock theteazel strip against the side of the body withthe help of a hammer and piece of rubber asshown in Fig. 70.

6. Fit the interior light, sun visors, rear viewmirror and trim mouldings for the windscreen,see Fig. 71.

Fig. 67. Inner trim mouldings removed

Fig. 68. Headlining and trim strip released

Fig. 69. Stretching the headlining

Fig. 70. Knocking in the teazel strip

Fig. 71. Fitting sun visor

Fig. 72. Cutting away the headlining

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REPLACING THE HEADLINING, 2- AND 4-DOORVEHICLES

1. Remove the interior light, sun visors, rear viewmirror and upper part of the trim moulding forthe windscreen. Release the side mouldingsas shown in Fig. 67.

2. Cut away the old headlining as shown in Fig.72.

3. Remove the trim strip and remainder of the oldheadlining.

4. Adjust the teazel strip so that it fits well againstthe trim strip and check the screws of the teazelstrip.

5. Fit the stretchers in the new headlining. N.B.The stretchers are numbered 1-5 with 1 atthe front next to the windscreen. Make surethat the stretchers are provided with rubbercaps at the ends.

6. Fit the headlining starting at the back, seeFig. 73. The rear stretchers are attached withclips, one on each side. The other stretchersare placed on the sheet metal edge over thedoors. The stretchers should stand vertically.

7. Fold over the plastic strip and fit above thewindscreen as shown in Fig. 74.

8. Fit the headlining above the rear windowas described in point 7. The seam runningacross at the back should come at an equaldistance from both the corners of the rearwindow, see Fig. 75.

9. Stick the headlining to the body metal at therear window and to the wheel arch plate.

1 0. Fit the sun visors, see Fig. 71.11. Stretch up the headlining in the teazel strip.

This is done stretcher by stretcher beginningon both sides with stretcher 1, then stretcher2, 3 and so on. The headlining is pushed inand straight upwards so that there are nocreases at the windscreen or rear window. Donot secure the headlining along the wholeside but leave a piece at the front edge asshown in Fig. 71.

1 2. Fit the trim strip.1 3. Knock the teazel strip against the body side

with a hammer and piece of rubber as shownin Fig. 70.

14. Cut out a hole for the interior light. Pull outthe wires and fit the interior light.

15. Secure the remaining part of the headliningat the corners of the windscreen.

16. Fit the windscreen trim moulding.

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Fig. 73. Fitting rear clip

Fig. 74. Folding over and fitting the plastic strip

Fig. 75. Headlining ready for stretching

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Fig. 77. Removing trim moulding for windscreenFig. 76. Stretching the headlining and attaching

to teazel strip

Instrument panelREMOVING THE INSTRUMENT PANELThe instrument panel is secured to the body with screws. These are accessible after the front doors havebeen opened and the inner trim moulding for the windscreen removed as shown in Fig. 77.

SPECIAL TOOLS FOR CARRYING OUT WORK ON THE BODY

SVO 2572

SVO 2297

SVO 2486

SVO 2297 Tool for removing clips on door andwindow winder handles, and forremoving and fitting spring clipsfor window mouldings.

SVO 2486 Tool for fitting plate nut.SVO 2572 Tool for removing and fitting torsion

stay for luggage compartment lid.

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