issue.12Oct .1.2015

Active Couture

VPL IRADJ MOINIPhotography Brian Offidani

Hair Emi Agio

Makeup U-ki

Style Yuko Nakao

Model Brianna (Wilhelmina Models)

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STATEMENTS of design Text Skyler Rohwedder

Iradji Mioni's bold brand history of almost daring statements with an air of

mystique complements the rich history and brand heritage of VPL with their

entry into "athleleisure".

In these vibrant images, Esthetique showcases true statements of self-

expression in collaboration with iconic brands synonymous with these

attributes.

VPL explores the aspect of the fashion side of technical athletic wear in

unexpected fabrications, designs, and often dramatic details with the

unexpected that the brand is known for and doesn't disappoint. 

True to both brand's heritage of pushing boundaries and breaking

preconceived rules, Esthetique features VPL and Iradji Mioni designs in an

almost ironic view on personal style and attitude among the often cultural

homogeneous phenomenon of athleleisure.  The almost stoic or “urban

homogenous expression on the model is contrasted beautifully by the daring

statement outfits.

The added luxury of Annebelle New York outerwear layered on the looks adds

to the element of contradicting perceptions on luxury and athletic wear in

todays largest trend.

Modern technical yet fashionably forward athletic apparel shown with layers

of historic luxe jewelry and iconic vintage feeling furs poses the question;

is the next athleisure phase trending towards more personal statements and

the desire of creative Haute Couture creations shining through the utilitarian

urban street styles?  

For our first designer feature, one could not think of a better diplomatic

representative to discuss design with other than IRADJI MIONI.

Unapologetically bold and daring in style with a charming, humble demeanor

and divergent approach to design, he complements ESTHETIQUE's mantra

of portraying this industry with the unexpected or behind the scenes fashion

scope.

Changing the perception of costume jewelry as now a twist on Haute Couture

status collectables, Iranian born and raised jewelry designer, IRADJ MIONI,

invites one into his showroom-combined workspace in a warm and truly

accessible manner. Mesmerized by the gemstones, metals, Swarovski crystals,

stacks of lush velvet trays of finished ornate pieces mixed with, let’s just say,

historical statement baubles is immediately enticing. Now combine this with

an almost uncontrollable urge to try on the serpent bangle cuff – yes, truly

mesmerizing for a glance behind the scenes.

However, one is now definitely thinking of who has passed through this

charming gated entrance and already tried on this serpent bangle? Am I next?

Isn’t there a VIP room?

The answer is No. He doesn’t need one.

He then begins to answer ever so causally with a grin of humor as we discuss

his background, work, and so forth. I don’t know him nor does he know me,

yet.

One thing is absolutely clear, do not let his go-with-the-flow manner fool you,

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he was never confused on what he wanted to achieve in fashion. (Although

he will argue that point with you while smiling.) Blurring the boundaries of

luxury status collections with a wholesale retail business didn’t happen over

night.

Migrating from Iran in the 1980’s, his formal training is in architecture as

government regulations mandated one must pursue a more reputable trade,

commonly in the sciences. Motivated by the fashion and cultural movements

of the time; he still found a muse in architecture through creation itself and the

likes of Antoni Gaudi; best known for forming a unique perspective in works

with an individualized and and distinct modern style directly influenced by

his admitted passions in life. Bauhaus in Germany was also an early influence

know for crafting and creating “total” masterpieces in design, integrating all

areas of the arts to result in a more moderinist approach to architecture and

design. The structural, sculpted, mixed material, and balancing of different

proportions or layers noted in his designs are direct influences of his formal

architectural training.

Except one minute detail on his studies “he hated it”!

Following fashion influences and beginning to design jewelry on the side was

how he spent the majority of his time.

His design muse? It is a rather large passion for all designs Yves Saint Laurent

and his cult status following at the time. Pushing the boundaries with a more

an avant-garde approach to design while still remaining focused on detail and

service, his “craft” began.

Designing formally in NYC since 1989, notable for his show collaborations

with Oscar De La Renta, his handmade, now literal “statement” pieces are

coveted by tastemakers, world-renowned collectors, and celebrities alike.

Barbara Berger, as he chuckles, once claimed his pieces received more attention

than her diamond collection. Now owning over 1000 pieces, some featured in

a display at the Museum of Arts and Design in conjunction with her tome-like

publication “Fashion Jewelry: The Collection of Barbara Berger.”

Status jewelry is now re-defined in the industry– done, now that’s settled.

What’s next?

He explains this as if it isn’t rather extraordinary.

“He designs what he loves and it resonates with his clientele who approach

him. They come to me.That’s it.”

(So is it the “build it and they will come” theory? I do think he downplays just

how much work goes into his business!)

Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, and Elle adorn Beyoncé, Oprah, and celebrities often

with his seasonal creations.

Oh, and there is this fact. He designed one of the most famous brooches right

out of Madeline Albrights personal arsenal of jeweled pins used for foreign

affair engagements. This man does not name drop! He simply smiles when

pressed further on these collaborations and muses and laughs; “Oh that, I

really don’t know them” as he clasps his hands together and tilts his head back

a bit holding in his laughter.

If one asked Iris Apfel, I suspect we would hear a different story. His work was

showcased from her collection in 2006 at the MET and, of course, he has 3

permanent pieces on display in the TROP exhibit in the Louvre.

(Is there a confidentiality waiver I have to sign next?)

It is a true testament to his customized approach to design and detail, belief

in offering only superior customer service and reputation of a perfectionist

attitude toward his designs. While he is diplomatic in service, he does not

compromise his designs. Designing a seasonal collection, as a large brand, still

hand sketching, he doesn’t edit based on corporate hierarchy, buyers or clients.

That’s rare. It’s just his vision and designs.

Pardon?

There must be another workspace with assistant designers, graphic designers,

and a sales team.

No.

One may be surprised at the behind the scenes glimpse into his work area. It is

as eclectic as his clientele. Reminiscent of his work ethic, it reflects this almost

tangible post-industrial craftsmanship style practiced through trade combined

with a full-scale wholesale business, shipping to the finest jewelry departments

in NY or featured in trunk shows and tradeshows where he has quite the

following.

It’s also just him or on rare occasions his nephew.

(I noticed your website can use some sprucing up to showcase these dazzling

designs and their rich history. I’ll send an email later.)

What are you working on today?

“Monday was well…” as we discuss everyone’s love of that inevitable

unproductive Monday. Today, he was reviewing last season’s shipment to

Bergdorf’s and personally merchandising an appropriate fall assortment for

the next shipment. “Jewel-tones for fall is a must, yes, jewel-tones “ after the

summer he stresses no turquoise or lighter shades.

This aspect is clearly not his favorite, yet he meticulously hand selects

assortments for his wholesale accounts as well.

Service oriented is an understatement.

How would you describe your rise to success?

“Simple, I design what I love and others have contacted me, starting with Oscar

de la Renta. I will continue to design and do what I love. I always knew I would

be successful if I did this.” He than discusses his love of all things fashion since

his childhood.

Yes, this is definitely rare in the age of personal digital branding and social

strategy. His strategy is detailed, focused on customer service showcasing

designs he does for fun. (Yes.)

Why fashion, why jewelry?

Simple again, he knew he needed to create. Jewelry “is the only medium for

true expressive Haute Couture in NYC and I always knew I would pursue

fashion as a career”. He found a niche market and clever way to build his brand.

He discusses accessories can instantly elevate a look or create style yet can be

collected and kept for decades while remaining relevant

Overlapping semi-precious stones mirrors his technique of overlapping the

genre of fine jewelry and costume jewelry.

It is this rare combination of expressive design, craftsmanship and modernity

is what we explore throughout our visit and what has established his reputation

as a pivotal designer in costume jewelry.

As we look around at his designs, he almost defiantly states,

“I knew when I was 5!”

Humble, yes, confidant more so! Now we are getting somewhere!

Confused in his early career choices as he seems to want to answer to the press,

I think no.

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How did you pursue fashion and what was your greatest design or aesthetic

influence?

“My formal training is as an Architect, indeed, an influence in designing

today”. He studied this profession solely due to government regulations at the

time restricting areas of study. It was “a means to an end as one did not study

fashion design as a profession.” Thus, inspired by the structural components

of his studies and the likes of his selective inspirations; he entered into fashion.

Thus, he relays that the technical skills and field of architecture were appealing

from a design perspective. However, “I hated it, I was watching Yves Saint

Laurent and fascinated with this avant-garde direction, but one must study

something…”

Why Yves Saint Laurent?

“The designs were unexpected and consistently delivered a level of taste each

season…women and the industry responded to it.”

Obviously inspired by pushing boundaries, innovation, and originality “these

designs captured your attention” yet they are still just as captivating today.

This is what he has achieved thus far in his collections.

This concept and his background in architexture do remain the key influences

in his designs today. His unique creativity in mixing gemstones, unusual

colors and materials in bold, daring, and often elaborate shapes are combined

with an undeniably strong structural, yes architectural 3-D component, that

creates a fusion of his signature natural organic fluidity and modern sculptural

statement pieces.

His designs are a rare combination of a vintage and feminine aesthetic within a

framework inherently ornate, sculptural, and oversized.

I didn’t ask this; but do non-brand affiliation clientele You Tube channels

devoted only to discussing collecting and wearing your pieces define success?

As I’m still looking for the VIP or sales showroom I am definitely drafting my

“let’s give you a new website” email in my head.

For more information, please contact: info@esthétique.com

Photog raphy H AYATO SA KUR A I / Hair K I YONR SUD

Makeup REI / St yle Y UKO NA K AO

Model BRU NO, CON NOR and STA NTON（One Model Management）

Homegents

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Photog raphy H AYATO SA KUR A I / Hair K I YONR SUD

Makeup REI / St yle Y UKO NA K AO

Model BRU NO, CON NOR and STA NTON（One Model Management）

Homegents[left page] Stanton : Jacket Paisley & Gray / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants Ernest Hemingway / Tie Stylist's own

[on this page] [right]Connor : Sweater WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED / Bow tie Ernest Hemingway

[left]Stanton : Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED / Tie Ernest Hemingway / Suspenders Stylist's own

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Stanton : Shirt Curator NYC / Pants Ernest Hemingway

Bruno : Sweater Ernest Hemingway / Pants Curator NYC

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Bruno : Suit Ernest Hemingway / Sweater Calvin Klein Jeans

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Connor : Jacket Paisley & Gray / Shirt Ernest Hemingway / Pants Paisley & Gray

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[left] Bruno : Canvas suit WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray

[right] Connor : Coat WHYRED / Sweater Ernest Hemingway / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants Ernest Hemingway

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[left page] All shirts Paisley&Gray/ All pants WHYRED / Tie Stylist's own

[on this page] Stanton : Jacket Paisley & Gray / T-shirt WHYRED / Pants Paisley & Gray

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[middle]Bruno : Sweat shirt WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED

[right] Connor : Jacket WHYRED / Shirt Paisley & Gray / Pants WHYRED

[left]Stanton : Jacket and shirt Paisley & Gray / Top Curator NYC / Pants WHYRED

Photography Gregory Keith

Style Yuko Nakao

Makeup Moises Ramirez using M.A.C. Cosmetics

Hair Kat Zemtsova using Amika

Nail Shani Evans

Model Lika (ELITE Model Management)

THE CELESTIAL

PARK

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Photography Gregory Keith

Style Yuko Nakao

Makeup Moises Ramirez using M.A.C. Cosmetics

Hair Kat Zemtsova using Amika

Nail Shani Evans

Model Lika (ELITE Model Management)

THE CELESTIAL

PARK

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Korean originated emerging women label, BIG PARK had landed to New York Fashion Week since

spring 2015. The new fall season was concepting “LOVE”, inspired by the operetta... and all the romantic

sculptures inside the Louvre in Paris. Creative Director and CEO Park Youn Soo and his daughter, Sooy

as a designer, submerged the viewer into Jean de la Fontaine’s 1669 love story of ‘Psyche and Cupid’.

Beautiful stained glass frescos evoke the exquisite icons of European Middle Age Catholicism.

BIG PARK Featured designer

with jewelry by KARA ROSS NEW YORK

Handsome WomenKalu_Shirt KEVIN JOHNN / Hat Vintage / Earrings BRANDY PHAM

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Photography Marta Elena

Hair and Makeup Micha

Style Yuko Nakao

Model Alex and Kalu (Elite Model Management)Handsome WomenAlex_Suit PAISLEY&GRAY / Shirt KEVIN JOHNN / Hat Vintage / Gloves HESTRA

Kalu_Suit KEVIN JOHNN / Hat Vintage / Gloves HESTRA

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Alex_ Suit BY MALINA / Shirt TROUBADOUR

Kalu_Jacket KEVIN JOHNN / Pants Stylist's own / Necklace BRADY PHAM

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Alex_Shorts and belt Stylist's own / Earrings BRANDY PHAM

Kalu_Suit BY MALINA / Shirt TROUBADOUR

Nigntof the Moment

Photograph Kazumasa Kawasaki

Styling Atsushi Nagao

Makeup Mari (S-14)

Hair Asami Ota

Model Yuka Mannami (Donna Models)

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Jumpsuits SATOKO OZAWA

Jacket and pants MAINTENANT,shoes ENFOLD 48

Jacket OKIRAKU,tops KATTYXIOMARA,skirt HOUSE_COMMUNE,shoes Sellenatela

Shirt MAINTENANT,pants IHNN,shoes Sellenatela 50

Tops ENFOLD

Knit HOUSE_COMMUNE

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Tops ENFOLD,pants HOUSE_COMMUNE,shoes Sellenatela

Dress G-Star RAW 54

Tops SATOKO OZAWA

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Tops STUDIOUS,skirt ANDREA PONPILIO,shoes Sellenatela

The entire photographs of Esthétique are protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without the expressed written consent of publisher.本誌の掲載記事・写真等の無断複写（コピー）・複製・転載を禁じます。

Contact

info@esthetiqueny.com

Address

127 Ludlow Street 4B New York, NY 10002

Japan:1-25-3 Sata Higashimachi,

Moriguchi-city, Osaka, Japan

Cover Page and Back Page _

Photography HAYATO SAKURAI

Hair KIYONR SUD

Makeup REI

Style YUKO NAKAO

Model CONNOR(Cover)

and BRUNO(Back)

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Art Director_Yuki Joriku

Media Producer_ Copeland Lanier

Copy and Digital Content Editor _Skyler Rohwedder

Asian Marketing Director_Shermin Luo

Communication_Kumi Higuchi