Extreme How To October 2013

7/28/2019 Extreme How To October 2013

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PLUS:

The Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement

Construct a Sturdy Storage Rack for Sheet Goods

October 2013 | www.extremehowto.com

0 0 9 2 8 1 0 3 6 0 0 5

1 0

$ 4 . 9 9 U S $ 4 . 9 9 C A N

ADVANCEMENTS IN

DRILLS & DRIVERS

REFINISHING A CHERRY

WOOD COUNTERTOP

SPOTLIGHT ON

INNOVATIVE FASTENERS

SHAKE

ITUP

The Enthusiasts Guide to Home ImprovementThe Enthusiasts Guide to Home Improvement

INSTALLINGSYNTHETICSHAKE FOR ALONG-LASTINGROOF

INSTALLINGSYNTHETICSHAKE FOR ALONG-LASTINGROOF


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CONTENTSOc t obe r 2013

F E A T U R E S

42 Smooth MovesRefinishing a Cherry Wood Countertop

54 Shake it Up

Installing Synthetic Shake for a Long-lasting Roof

68 Rack 'em UpBuilding a Sturdy Storage Rack for Sheet Goods

54 68

4 www.extremehowto.com

42


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E V E R Y I S S U E

From the Editor

Advertisers Index

C O L U M N S

Q & A

Tool SchoolAdvancements in Drills & Drivers

SpotlightInnovative Fasteners for Home Construction

D E P A R T M E N T S

Quick Fix

Install a Foundation Vent

Hot Products

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10

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30

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CONTENTS


Cover photo depicts Bellaforte Shakefrom DaVinci Roofscapes

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From The

Editor-In-ChiefETTERI

n the South we have the expression: "Don't put the cart before the

horse." It reminds us to keep things in the right order, to avoid con-

fusion, because when things get mixed up they don't work well.

When it comes to windows and doors, the latest Energy Star regula-tions may be putting the cart before the horse. I got a press release

from the Window & Door Manufacturers Association (WDMA) explaining

that the program is being re-vamped with stricter requirements, and

some of their members arent very happy about the upcoming changes.

The Energy Star program has a two-fold purpose: to encourage

manufacturers to make energy-efficient products, and to encourage

consumers to purchase energy-efficient products. In the past, the

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) would collaborate with manu-

facturers and consumer groups to collect input on the energy-saving

guidelines. The window manufacturers engineered their products to

meet those guidelines and reaped the benefits of marketing their

product with the highly visible, government-sanctioned Energy Star

logo. The manufacturers' cross-promotion of the Energy Star sealhelped to establish and legitimize the program.

However, now that the window manufacturers have helped to build

the program into a recognizable and respected brand, the EPA is

changing the rules without consultation of the manufacturers and

consumers. Essentially, some windows that currently qualify as

Energy Star-approved will in the future not qualify for the program.

This doesnt mean that those particular windows will be any less

energy-efficient than they are today. It simply means that those

windows wont be able to carry the Energy Star stamp of approval.

By moving the goal posts, this leaves the window manufacturers

in a tight spot. Ironically, the window makers were so successful in

helping to establish the Energy Star program as an identifiable andsought-after designation that windows which don't carry the logo are

now more difficult to market. Of course, manufacturers can always

re-engineer their products to increase their efficiency and meet the

new Energy Star qualifications, but doing so will come at a cost, and

that cost will be passed to the consumer.

According to the WDMA, the new regulations will ultimately result in

Energy Star windows that cost considerably more to manufacture and,

in turn, more to purchase. Qualifying windows may be too expensive for

the average consumer to buy and likely discourage participation in the

very program the government is supposedly trying to promote. And for

those that can afford the new units, it will take a much longer time for

them to recoup their investment in the expensive windows through the

savings on their energy bills.This seems backwards to me. I understand

the Energy Star program has the noble goal

of conserving energy, but it seems that who-

ever is in charge of making these regulations

should learn that the cart works better when

the horse is in front. Homeowners appreciate

energy-efficiency, and people generally want

to improve their homes. This taxpayer-funded

program should make those goals as easy as

possible to achieve.

Extreme How-To(ISSN 1540-5346) is published and distributedmonthly to DIY home improvement enthusiasts by Latitude3Media Group, LLC, 1111 Edenton Street, Birmingham, AL 35242(executive and editorial offices). All rights reserved. Neither thispublication nor any part of it may be reproduced, stored in aretrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, elec-tronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, withoutpermission of Latitude3 Media Group, LLC. Subscriptions: U.S. andpossessions: 1 year (9 issues $18.97); foreign, 1 year (9 issues $32.50) U.S. funds only. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to:Extreme How-To P.O. Box 4320, Oregon, IL 61061. SUBSCRIBERSERVICE: To order a subscription or change your address, write toExtreme How-ToP.O. Box 4320, Oregon, IL 61061, or call 888-587-8911; or E-mail [email protected]; or visit www.extremehowto.com.To order back issues, call (205) 949.1603.

The information in Extreme How-Toseditorial content is intended toexplain and simplify home-improvement tasks. Tools, products,materials, techniques, building codes and local regulations

change; therefore, Latitude3assumes no liability for omissions,errors or the outcome of any project. The reader must always exer-cise reasonable caution, follow current codes and regulations thatmay apply, and is urged to consult with a licensed professional if indoubt about any procedures. Printed in the USA

EDITOR- IN -CHIEFMatt Weber

[email protected]

ADVISORY BOARDMonte BurchRob RobillardLarry WaltonKathy Ziprik

Mark Clement

CREATIVE DIRECTORWesley Glassco

CIRCULATIONJennifer Pentecost

P U BLI SHERJeremy Hollingsworth

[email protected]

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVEJan Logan

[email protected] SALES

Martin [email protected]

Jason [email protected]

ONLINE MEDIA ASSISTANTSonia Griffin

BUSINESS MANAGERDusty Statham

SUBSCRIPT IONSCustomer Service

888-587-8911

P RESI D EN TTrent R. Boozer

EXECUTIVE V ICE-PRESIDENTChad Gillikin

EXECUTIVE V ICE-PRESIDENTVal Carrier

Extreme How-Tois published byLATITUDE3 MEDIA GROUP, LLC

1111 Edenton StreetBirmingham, AL 35242

Phone 205.949.1600 Fax 205.949.1601www.extremehowto.com



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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?&

Q:What are the differences between carbide-tipped router bits and high-speed steel router bits?

A:Carbide is a more durable metal that lasts 15 to 25 times longer than steel. However, steel bits are con-

siderably less expensive and can be more easily sharpened at home. Some professionals also prefer

HSS bits because they can be ground to alter their routing profile.

Q:I'm trying to replace a broken mandrel on a riding lawnmower. The mounting holes in the mandrelseem to be sized between standard bolt sizes. A 5/16-in. bolt is too large to fit but a 1/4-in. boltis too narrow and loose. I found the same problem when trying to use metric bolts. Does this sound like a

manufacturing defect?

A:Check the owner's manual for an exploded diagram of the mower deck. The manual may provideinformation on the specific fastener size. Also, make sure the diagram shows that nuts are used to

fasten the bolts. If no nuts are shown, then the mandrel may require specially sized self-tapping fasteners

that thread into the mandrel when installed. If this is the case, you can order the self-tapping fasteners from

the parts manufacturer, or you can level the mandrel on a drill press and carefully drill out the holes to fit the

standard 5/16-in. bolts and fasten with matching nuts.



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Questions About Home Building, Remodeling? Have Your OwnHow-To Tip? Visit our blog at blog.extremehowto.comand click on Ask Our Experts.

Gota?&


Q:I've been changing the oil in my car for 20 years. Today I changed the oil and then took it for a drive,and after a few miles the vehicle began hemorrhaging oil from below the engine. I pulled into a gasstation and the oil is leaking from around the filter. This has never happened to me. Did I install a bad filter?

Why did this happen?

A:A defective filter is a possibility, but the most likely cause would be the gasket of the old oil filter. Insome cases, especially if the vehicle has recently overheated, the rubber gasket can separate fromthe filter and stick to the housing on the vehicle. Since the old filter is usually covered with oil when removed,

the lack of filter can be easy to miss. When this happens, the gasket of the new filter is stacked over the old

gasket when installed, and the rubber-to-rubber connection does not provide an adequate seal to retain oil in

the engine. We suggest removing the oil filter, and if you find an old gasket beneath it, remove it and replace

the filter.

Q:My air compressor won't work when I attach it to an extension cord. Why is this?

A:An extension cord can lower the amperage causing the air compressor not to operate correctly andeventually damage the air pump. To achieve more working range with the compressor, most manu-facturers recommend using a long air hose, which has no impact on its electrical performance. EHT


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TOOL SCHOOL

Drills and drivers make up

the baseline of must-have

DIY tools. If you don't have

one, you're probably not getting

much work done.

Browse the aisles of your local

hardware store and youll see the

evolution of drills and powered

drivers, and for years the design

trend has been a focus on achiev-

ing more work with a smaller,

lighter tool. As far as cordless

tools, youll find that the old stan-

dard 14.4-volt tools are going the

way of eight-track tapes, in favor

of a spread between 12- and 18-

volt tools. Although 18-volt tools

still serve the role of knocking

out tough drilling applications in

heavy lumber, metal and even

concrete, the smaller 12-volt

variety are easier to control,

easier to man-euver and more

easily access the cramped nooks

and crannies that exist around

every home and jobsite.

The 12-volt category is experi-

encing unprecedented growth,

thanks to manufacturers optimiz-

ing the use of lithium-ion battery

technology. Lithium-ion batteriesweigh less and outperform their

NiCad counterparts. These batter-

ies last longer and feature a greater

number of recharges. They are

rechargeable in as little as 30 min-

utes, plus, lithium-ion batteries

deliver full power right up to the

point that they run out of juice,

eliminating the bogged down

performance associated with a

depleting NiCad battery.

To further complicate your buy-

ing decision, some drill/drivers

are now available as 16- and 20-

volt tools. Rockwells new 16V

MaxLithium tools are compact,

lightweight and feature short

head stocks. The new 16V line

is more powerful than our 12V

models and dont have the bulk

associated with some 18- and

20-volt tools, says Jeanne White,

Rockwell senior product manager.

They are fully-loaded and highly

maneuverable to get in and out

of tight quarters quickly and

efficiently.

BATTERIESMajor tool manufacturers,

from Bosch and Milwaukee to

Ridgid and Dewalt, each have a

full line of lithium-ion powered

tools in both 12- and 18-volt

series. However, even within

the field of the newer lithium-ion

batteries, battery advancements

roll out almost every year as

engineers learn how to squeeze

more power and efficiency out of

the technology.

For example, Milwaukee Electric

Tool entered the ring of lithium-ion

tools several years ago and has

made great strides in battery tech-

nology ever since. The company's

new Red Lithium technology offers

considerable more performance

compared to standard lithium-ion

batteries. According to Milwaukee,

the new batteries offer up to 40

percent more run time, 20 percent

more power and 50 percent more

By Matt Weber


Advancements in Drills & Drivers

The WH18DBDL 18V Impact

Driver from Hitachi Power Tools

delivers 1,420 lbs. of torque and

features a brushless motor.


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TOOL SCHOOL


recharges. When you consider the

high cost of replacement batter-

ies, this is not just a performance

advantage, but an economical

one, too. The Milwaukee Red

Lithium batteries feature the

RedLink digital power manage-

ment system for temperature

and overload-current control

plus cell-voltage monitoring that

prevents burn-up.

Milwaukee's new batteries,

along with battery systems from

Hitachi, Bosch and other heavy

hitters, also feature a battery

fuel gauge. This handy amenity

provides a lighted display that

indicates how much power is

left in the battery before requir-

ing a charge. This helps you to

plan your work accordingly and

reduces surprise outages during

operation.

The increasingly popular 12V

size of drill/drivers offers

ample power and run-time in

a compact package.


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AVAILABLE THROUGHOUT

THE USA, ARKE SPIRAL

AND MODULAR STAIRCASE

KITS CAN BE BUILT IN A

DAY BY THE AVERAGE

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IN STOCK FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY www.arkestairs.com

THE KARINA MODULAR SPACE SAVER STAIRKIT IS A UNIQUE AND

STYLISH SOLUTION FOR NARROW ACCESS AREAS, SUCH AS LOFTS

OR ATTICS, WITHOUT COMPROMISING FUNCTIONALITY.

3


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BRUSHLESS MOTOR

TECHNOLOGY

A power tool's electronic brushes

often require replacement after thetool sees a lot of wear. However, major

tool manufacturers are moving toward

brushless motors that not only elimi-

nate the maintenance headache of

brushes but also offer remarkable

performance advantages over the

older motors.

Instead of wearable brushes, tool

manufacturers engineer more steel

and copper into the brushless motors

for longer life as a result of reduced

friction, less heat buildup and higherefficiency. Brushless motors can

deliver significantly more power and

run time.

The EHTstaff has been testing

Hitachi's powerful WH18DBDL 18-volt

impact driver with brushless motor

(lead photo). This slick, compact tool

TOOL SCHOOL


The lithium-ion batteries that come with most of the newest drills and

drivers can be charged in as little as 30 minutes and stay charged 5

times longer than NiCad batteries.


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has a comfortable grip and deliv-

ers 55 percent more run time per

charge than the company's con-

ventional brushed DC motor. You

can also adjust the tool to drive

small screws by 3 devices: a vari-

able speed switch, selective 4-

stage to limit no-load speed, and

selective striking mode (single or

continuous).

Look for brushless motor tech-

nology in new professional-grade

drills, drill/drivers, impact drivers

and hammer-drills.

TOOL TYPES

Drill/Drivers. EHT readers aresurely familiar with the basic

drill/driver combo. These toolbox

staples serve double-duty as they

bore holes as a drill and drive

fasteners like a screwdriver. The

tool's size and power indicates

the degree of trade-off you can

expect between the two applica-

tions. The smaller tools typically

don't offer as much muscle for

tough drilling tasks, but the larger

tools are tougher to control for

light-duty fastening.

Dedicated Drivers. Whereas a

TOOL SCHOOL


Rockwell Tools offers a 16V line-

up with more power than its 12V

lineup but without the bulk and

weight associated with 18V tools.


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TOOL SCHOOL

dedicated electric driver is not

a tool for boring holes, these

tools offer greater control when

sinking fasteners. A dedicateddriver accomplishes delicate

fastening tasks with more focus

and less cam-out or slippage.

These are the preferred tools for

assembly work.The EHTstaff has recently been

working with the new Skil 360

Quick-Select, a dedicated driver

with an innovative new twist. It

features an integrated 12-bit

cylinder featuring the most com-

monly used tips for a wide range

of fastening tasks. This eliminates

the need to carry a case of bits

(which are always difficult for our

crew to keep up with), and makes

change-up quick and easy. Justspin the chamber like a revolver

and click out your bit, stiletto

style. This super-compact lithium-

ion tool has a built-in battery that

holds a charge up to 18 months.


Milwaukee Electric Tool's new

Red Lithium batteries offer up to

40 percent more run time, 20

percent more power and 50 per-

cent more recharges compared

to standard lithium-ion.

The new Skil 360 Quick-Select

features an integrated 12-bitcylinder featuring the most

commonly used driver tips.


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TOOL SCHOOL


IMPACT DRIVERS

Many pros and DIY'ers have

already joined the fun of owning

an impact driver. If you haven't

used one yet, you're missing out.

Unlike conventional powered

screwdrivers, an impact driver

uses an internal anvil to deliver

much higher rotational torque than

conventional drill/drivers. When

the power needed to drive the fas-

tener exceeds the torque of the

tool's rotational force, a drive gear

with two matching lugs strikes the

anvil to nudge the bit along. You'll

hear a loud tapping from the tool

when the striking engages. The

impact action drives fasteners very

quickly, and little pressure is need-

ed on the head of the tooljust

enough to keep it in the screw-

head slots. This grants greater

control and helps prevent the bit

from jerking out of the fastener.

Impact drivers are excellent tools

To choose a bit, just spin the chamber of the 360

Quick-Select and flip a switch to load your choice.


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where speed and user fatigue are

an issue. These tools are meas-

ured by impacts per minute (IPM),

and an 18-volt unit can deliver asmuch as 1,500 lbs. of torque.

Although impact drivers have

become hugely popular, the strik-

ing action of the tools can be

tough on bits. Most hex-shank

screwdriving bits are compatible

with impact drivers, but Irwin now

offers the Impact Performance

Series fastener drive bits that are

specifically engineered for maxi-

mum durability with impact driv-

ers. The bits are forged ratherthan milled, so they fit fasteners

more precisely, which reduces

stripping and increases the life of

the bit itself. According to Irwin,

the new bits have three times

longer life than traditional insert

bits. Manufactured with heavy-

duty, cold-forged, high-grade

steel, they withstand high torque

output while the black oxide fin-

ish resists corrosion.

HAMMER DRILL OPTIONS

Heavy-duty construction work-

ers use rotary hammers for major

concrete and masonry work, but a

hammer-drill option on a combo

drill/driver is a handy tool to have

when you need to hit the hard

stuff. The hammer-drill function

At 7.3" long, 7.1" tall and weigh-

ing only 2.3 lbs., the new Bosch

PS130 12V Max is the most

compact, powerful hammer-

drill/driver in its class.

TOOL SCHOOL


The striking action of impact drivers can be tough on driver bits. Irwin's

Impact Performance Series bits are forged rather than milled, so they fit

fasteners more precisely, which reduces stripping and increases the life

of the bit itself.


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Handle Coating/Spray-onBed Liner jobs as

professional applicators do:

877-891-8741www.spray-lining.com

[email protected]

No More Ludicrous Quotes-No Contractors, No Illogical

Mysteries, No Waiting or Rush,No Laughable Alternatives

Obtain Clear Cost onProfessional-Grade Materials+ Loaned Equipment + 24/7

Technical Support

Contact Spray-Lining Support forunique or specialized coatings

applications. The ONLY DIYSolution to High-Cost Contractors

Disclaimer: Standard & Customized Kits: All DIY Packages were

designed ONLY for people who are mechanically experienced or well

read on relevant subjects. For less experienced people or complex

projects, Spray-Lining Dealers are available for in-shop, on-site by

telephone or emailed quotes. Certified S-L applicators are sometimes

Mobile. Find closest S-L certified d ealer visit www.Spray-Lining.com,

call 1-877-891-8741 or use [email protected]. An S-L dealer

is within 2 hours drive time at most residential, automotive &

agricultural & zones of 400,000+ population.

Contact [email protected] dealer/zone availability

Under Ship Ballast- Right Side

with S-L Clear Spray-Shield

Hull Damage Repair with

S-L ASW-01 Anti-Stick White

Bottom-Line, an S-L certified dealer applying

AF-12 S-L Anti-Fowling Liner Single Coat

available on some drill/drivers

utilizes a cam-action hammering

mechanism, in which two sets of

toothed gears interact with eachother to hammer while rotating

the drill bit. The hammering action

helps break up the masonry or

stone so it can be removed by

the drill bit's flutes. A hammer-

drill is the go-to tool when you

need to drill pilot holes for con-

crete screws and bore access

for pipe or wires.

The most compact, powerful

hammer-drill/driver in its class

is the new Bosch PS130 12VMax. At 7.3 inches long, 7.1

inches tall and weighing only

2.3 lbs., the PS130 offers excep-

tional balance and control for

working in confined spaces. The

PS130 features a two-speed gear-

box that lets you quickly choose

between high-torque (0 350

RPM) or high-speed (0 1,300

RPM) operation for screwdriving

and drilling applications. Plus, it

provides 265 inch-pounds of maxtorque and generates up to

19,500 beats per minute (BPM)

for drilling in masonry. It's not a

tool intended for daily heavy-duty

concrete work, but for electricians,HVAC professionals and window

installers who occasionally need

to drill into stone or masonry, the

PS130 is a great stand-by.

NAIL DRIVERS

The trusty hammer will always

be with us, but talk to any profes-

sional framer and you'll hear

about the wonders of a nail gun.

Even better: a cordless nail gun.

Paslode's cordless battery-pow-ered/gas-fired framing guns are

highly sought after by contractors

and discriminating DIY'ers alike.

Simply put, these tools can sink

a nail in an instant, exactly where

you want it to go, and do so with-

out the hindrance of a hose and

air compressor. A cordless fram-

ing nailer will bring speed and

efficiency to any rough framing

project, and can allow work at

off-site locations where powersupplies are not available.

www.extremehowto.com 27

Paslode's CF325Li Li-ion Cordless Framing Nailer drives up to 6,000

nails per charge without the hassle of an air hose or compressor.


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TOOL SCHOOL

Similarly, cordless finish nailers bring

the same performance and convenience

to trim carpentry, woodworking and cabinet

construction. Paslode's cordless 16-gauge

angled finish nailer has a new lithium-ion

battery that provides 50 percent more run

time than a NiCad battery (driving up to

6,000 nails per charge). It comes with a

1-hour Rapid Charger, plus a quick two-

minute charge can provide the juice for

200 shotsusually enough to complete

those "almost finished" jobs at the end

of the day.

For more information on the latest

drills, drivers, nailers and more, check

out the Extreme How-To website

www.extremehowto.com.

EHT


Sencos 18V DuraSpin auto-feed

screwdriver uses 2 collated screws for

high-production fastening of drywall,

sheathing, paneling and more.


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SPOT LIGHT

Extreme How-To takes a

look at some top choices for

holding your projects togeth-

er. The following state-of-the-art

fasteners come in a variety of

sizes and shapes for a number of

construction applications, from

rough framing to drywall repair.

Reliable fasteners help you towork smarter, not harder, to com-

plete a quality job with confidence

and efficiency.

CALIBURN CONCRETESCREWS

Once the Caliburn concrete

screw from GRK Fasteners

sinks its teeth, it doesn't let go.

Featuring a viciously aggressive

thread design, the Caliburn

delivers the industry's highest rat-

ings for shear strength along with

5,724 lbs. of pull-out strength.

Available with bugle, pan and

washer heads for a wide range of

masonry or concrete applications,

the Caliburn can be removed and

reinserted into the same pilot hole

numerous times. The screws arecoated with GRK's Climatek tech-

nology for high corrosion resist-

ance and they're approved for use

with treated wood. Learn more at

www.grkfasteners.com.

INSTABACK DRYWALLFASTENERS

InstaBACK is a multipurpose

fastener that makes drywall instal-

lation and hole repair easier by

reducing waste and eliminating

unnecessary framing. By using the

InstaBACK clips, no time is spent

fabricating back-up materials. To

repair a hole in drywall, first cut

away the damaged drywall to form

a square hole. Place InstaBACK

clips along each edge, 8 to 12

inches apart, with tabs facing out

and away from hole. Install one

drywall screw per clip, 3/4 in. from

the edge of the hole. Cut the patch

to proper size and place in the

hole, against the clips. Install one

drywall screw per clip, 3/4 in. from

the edge of the patch. Then, wig-

gle the perforated tabs until they

snap off to provide a clean seam

to finish over.

For new drywall installation,

the InstaBACK clips can be used

to bridge butt joints in wall and

ceiling panels. Learn more at

www.fastenmaster.com.


Hold it TogetherInnovative Fasteners for Home Construction

By Matt Weber


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TOP STAR SHIM SCREW

The Top Star Shim Screw from

GRK has an ingenious design that

you really need to see in action.

This patented two-piece fastener

creates a "screw within a screw"

that reduces labor for the plumb

installation of window and door

frames (jambs), paneling and built-

in cabinets. The Top Star's inner

screw turns independently of the

outer portion of the fastener for

easy adjustment without shims.

First, drill a pilot hole for the

screw and then drive the Top

Star with GRK's crown bit through

the jamb into the rough-opening

frame until flush. Slide off the

crown bit to reveal the inner star

bit. Use the inner star bit to adjust

the jamb in and out of the frame

until flush. This system of door

installation is much faster than

using wood shims to make fine

adjustments. Learn more at


SURE DRIVE DECK

FASTENERS

There are many types of deck

fasteners on the market but a few

simple, common-sense facts can

make your choice an easy one.

How easily does the screw drive?

Does it offer adequate corrosion

resistance for the project's environ-

ment? Sure Drive USA offers a

SPOT LIGHT



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variety of deck screws designed to

achieve maximum driving performance,

with a variety of corrosion-resistance

options. The company's popular

Rustguard Decking Bullets are coated

to provide excellent protection against

rust and corrosion. For the ultimate

in corrosion protection Sure Drive's

Seamaster line is made of high-grade

305 stainless steel. All deck screws

come with either a Type-17 cutter point

or Sure Drive's patented serrated-teeth

thread design that slices through

even the toughest materials without

splitting.

Sure Drive also offers a newly

designed tri-thread design Composite

Deck Screw designed exclusively for

cap-stock composite decking. This

type of composite decking usually

has a softer core but a tough exterior

wrap that makes it difficult to

penetrate. The Sure Drive CCDS

starts quickly and eliminates


SPOT LIGHT

105 Ashmore Drive, Leola, PA 17540

Phone: (717) 656-0256 Fax: (717) 656-0822

www.leolafasteners.com

Badger 15 Ser i es

8 Threads per inch Type 17 cutter

point

2/3 Thread 305 Stainless Steel


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mushrooming of the composite

material. It's protected with Sure

Drive USAs exclusive four-step

coating process for exceptional

corrosion resistance. Learn more

at www.suredrive.com.

MURO EJECTOR SCREWS

Many contractors still believe

that fastening Brazilian hard-

woods, like Ipe and Green Heart,

without pre-drilling is simply not

possible. The fact is that Muros

patented Ejector Screws have

been completing these decking

jobs for years, although this has

been a closely held secret.

Contractors in the know wont typi-

cally divulge their secret because

they would lose a huge competi-

tive advantage. Muro Auto Feed

Systems and fasteners provide

the complete system to handle

projects large and small. Ejector

screws come in a variety of sizes,

including all the way to 4 inches

long. The screws come in collated

belts for use with the Muro Speed

Driver, an upright auto-feed screw-

driver that provides tremendous

labor savings and allows installers

to work ergonomically by standing

upright. Learn more at

www.muro.com.

RSS RUGGED

STRUCTURAL SCREW

For heavy-duty framing, the

GRKs RSS Rugged Structural

Screw is made of specially

hardened steel to serve as a

self-tapping lag screw alterna-

tive. It eliminates the need

for a pilot hole as well as the

need for washers. With its

high-torque design, high-tensile

strength and narrow shaft, the

RSS quickly bores through

wood, greatly reducing the

risk of splitting the material,

and grips tightly with superior

holding strength. RSS screws

that are 3-1/8-in. and longer

SPOT LIGHT



40/100

have six CEE threads that enlarge

the screw hole for the non-thread-

ed portion of the fastener, allow-

ing the wood to settle easily and

increasing the screws drawing

strength. Learn more at


THRULOK SCREW-BOLT

FASTENING SYSTEM

The ThruLOK screw-bolt fasten-

ing system combines the speed

of a self-tapping screw with the

strength of a through-bolted

connection in three decking

applications: single 2x to 4x

decking posts (6-14 in.), notched

6x carrying beams (7 in.), and

double 2x to single 4x decking

posts (8 in.). ThruLOK is a three-

part assembly: the fastener with

patent-pending Paddle Point tip,

an engineered washer, and the

LOK-Nut. Thru-LOK installs with

an 18-volt drill and requires no

predrilling or wrenches. Put the

ThruLOK washer on the screw with

the teeth of the washer facing

away from the head of the fasten-

er. Using a 12-in. high-torque drill,

drive the ThruLOK until the washer

and hex head are just above the

wood surface (approximately 14

in.) and the screw point protrudes

out the other side of the connec-

tion. Thread the ThruLOK-Nut

onto the point of the fastener.



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Hand-tighten the nut until flush with the

wood, and then tighten the screw with a

drill. Repeat to match the code-compliant

fastening pattern. Learn more at

www.fastenmaster.com.

BADGER SCREWS

From decking and building outdoor fur-

niture to any project where you want the

striking look of stainless steel, the 1-1/2-

in. Badger screws from Leola Fasteners

feature a Type 17 cutter point, 2/3 thread

with 8 threads per inch. (Lengths of 1 inch

or less are full thread.) The Badgers' 305

stainless steel withstands the toughest

weather without rusting, and the square-

drive flat head makes the screws easy to

install without cam-out. Learn more at

www.leolafasteners.com.


SPOT LIGHT

EHT

The new Smart-Bit Deck Screw Depth Setter was developed by

Starborn Industries to deliver fast, clean and uniform fastening results

every time. The new adjustable tool, which works equally well with

Starborn fasteners and other fastening products, is ideal for ensuring

screws are set to the desired depth below the work surface in decking,

drywall and general building applications. The Smart-Bit Deck Screw

Depth Setter features an Auto-Stop mechanism that automatically disen-

gages the driver bit and stops the screw from driving further once the

desired depth is reached, without stripping the screw recess. The tool

also features a free-spinning stop collar and rubber O-ring

to protect the work surface from damage

and marking. In addition, the

Depth Setter can be

adjusted for use with

many different screw

types and applications.

Once the screw depth isset on the tool, and

locked in place, the

Depth Setter produces

perfectly consistent results

throughout the installation.

Learn more at www.star-

bornindustries.com.

SMART-BIT DECK SCREW DEPTH SETTER


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It began in a cabin in the woods, theyear 1980, when Bob Schreiber bought a cabin

retreat tucked away in the Allegheny National Forest

of Western Pennsylvania to enjoy with family and

friends for vacations, and leisure activities like fishing

and hunting.

The cabin is nestled under a thick canopy of

debris shedding trees and the never ending need

to clean out the gutters was always high on the

list of chores for Bob to do.

In 1990, on one of Bobs quest to tackle the chore

of gutter cleaning, he came across an old twisted

brush in a storage area and thought this might be

useful to handle the twice yearly task of gutter clean-

ing. What transpired is nothing short of luck, it was

accidentally left in the gutter where it remained until

his return in the spring to open the cabin for the

season.

What Bob saw on his return was the usual gutters

loaded with leaves, acorns, pine needles, etc. except

for a small area where the old brush still rested,

which was debris free!

From this finding, an idea was

born and over the next several

years the concept of filling

the gutter channel with a

cylinder shaped brush

was explored, developed

and tested to see if this

eureka moment might solve the problem of

clogged gutters and gutter cleaning.

Engineered Simplicity the results from all the

testing and perfecting of the product under all types

of weather conditions to make sure this really was a

viable solution to prevent gutter clogs and reduce or

eliminate the dangerous and tedious task of gutter

cleaning from that to-do list were incredibly favor-

able and a product was born.

In May 2004, GutterBrush was introduced to

the public primarily through grassroots effort in

both Ohio and Rhode Island. The reception wasoverwhelmingly positive.

Some 20+ years since Bob conceived his idea;

Home Improvement Experts such as Gary Sullivan

(National Home Improvement Expert and Radio

Host) discovered GutterBrush and recommended the

product to their listening audience. Others followed

touting it as a simple, affordable, and very effective

solution to clogged gutters.

With the buzz in the Home Improvement industry

HGTV contacted Bob to feature GutterBrush onI Want That! a television program showcasing

innovative home products.

GutterBrush Simple Gutter Guard is made in the

USA and available on-line at www.gutterbrush.com,

in Do it Best Hardware locations and For the Do-

It-Yourselfer, it is easy to install and for those who

would rather keep your feet on the ground any serv-

ice professional with a ladder can install this for you.

Nine years later, since Bob brought GutterBrush

to market, the product continues to gain momentum

and has proven over and over that this simple solu-

tion to an age old problem is effective, economical

and virtually maintenance free Try

this for yourself today!.

HISTORY OFGUTTERBRUSH:


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CLOGGED GUTTERS CAN CAUSE EXPENSIVE DAMAGE TO HOMES: Water damage tointerior walls and ceilings, rotting fascia boards, ice dams, cracked foundations and wet basements. Payingfor regular gutter cleaning is expensive and climbing a ladder to clean them yourself is dangerous!

GutterBrush is Simple!A cylinder shaped brush that fills your gutters blocking leaves and debris whileallowing water to flow through. Just slide 3 ft. sections end to end into your gutter... Install it yourself, or gethelp from any contractor, handyman, or friend with a ladder!

GutterBrush Works! Prevents clogged gutters, reduces gutter cleaning and eliminates the expensiveproperty damage associated with gutter problems.

GutterBrush is Affordable! Full protection for most homes costs just $200 - $300 to do it yourself or alittle more to have it installed for you. Either way, you will save thousands over most gutter guard alternatives.

GutterBrush is Proudly Made in the U.S.A.

888-397-9433www.gutterbrush.com

GutterBrush is backed by oursimple Happy CustomerMoney Back Guarantee

If you dont like it,

send it back for a refund!

Do-It-Yourself!

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with discount code: EXTREME(Valid for a limited time)

SAYGOODBYE

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Do-It-Yourself!


45/100


Refinishing a Cherry

Wood Countertop

T

here is an unmistakable, unique look of quality

to a solid wood countertop. It is the mix

of warmth, character and performance that makesit a popular choice in many high-end kitchens. Many peo-

ple have a perception that installing solid wood is cost-pro-

hibitive, but nothing dresses up the cookie cutter

kitchen better than a solid wood countertop.

Wood counters are gorgeous but require peri-

odic maintenance. Depending on the finish,

that may mean a monthly, yearly or

more frequent refinishing. If

your wood countertop is stained,

looking a little dull or the finish

is worn, then it is time to refin-

ish itnot replace it. Refinishinga wood countertop can simply be

a weekend project if you use the

right methods and finish.

The countertop in this article is Cherry

and is approximately 60 in. wide and 24 ft.

long. Areas around the cook top were stained

from foods, and there were several water

stains visible from wet glasses.

SMOOTHMOVES

By Rob Robillard


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The client asked us to use a

product called EZ-Do, which is a

polyurethane gel thats a perfect

match for Varnique finish butcher

block products. (Varnique is a pop-

ular semi-gloss finish used with

many countertops manufactured

by John Boos & Co.) The product

can also be used to convert a top

finished with penetrating oil to a

Varnique finish. EZ-Do seals and

protects the wood surface.

When deciding how to refinish

a wood countertop you need to

determine if your wood counter

is going to be mainly aesthetic

or for general food preparation,

including cutting.

If you would like to use your

butcher block top as a cutting

surface, the finish to purchase is

penetrating oil. Just like cutting

boards, the natural wood surface

is protected by the oil, which is actu-

ally absorbed into the fibers. You

should periodically re-oil your butch-

er block tops to preserve their

beauty and durability. If, after

heavy usage, you wish to remove

cut marks,just sand off the top

and re-oil for a like-new look.

The EZ-DO finish is a Varnique

semi-gloss, which is an excellent

protection option for aesthetics

but also allows you to roll dough

and have direct food contact. A

Varnique finish is as close as you

can get to maintenance-free for

a wood countertop. A Varnique

finish can be easily cleaned with

mild soap and warm water and will

not need to be refinished until it

wears out. A Varnique finish is

more resistant to water spotting

and staining and its also safe to

use with either non-harsh or abra-

sive household cleaning products.

However, the Varnique finish is not

suitable for cutting.

WHAT YOU WILL NEED

The first step in preparing to

refinish a wood countertop is to

assemble the right tools. Your

three most important tools will

be a cabinet scraper, a random

orbital sander and a HEPA tool-

activated vacuum cleaner

attached to your sander.

Here's a list of what you should

have on hand:

Cabinet scraper

Random orbital sander

Vacuum with hose to connect

to sander

Sanding pads: 80, 120, 150,

220, 400 grit

Sandpaper for hand-sanding:

80, 120, 220 grit

Sandvik brand or similar scraper

for hard-to-reach locations

Tack Paper

EZ-Do finish

Brush: high quality for

polyurethane finishes

Rags

Small spacer wood blocks

to lift cook-top off counter

Removing the old finish requires a scraper, a random

orbital sander, and abrasvies ranging from 80 to 400 grit.

Start by using your cabinet scraper to scrape the

countertop, working with the grain of the wood.


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SCRAPE THE COUNTER

Start by using your cabinet

scraper to scrape the wood coun-

tertop, working with the grain ofthe wood. A cabinet scraper elimi-

nates using super aggressive

sanding by removing the finish

down to the wood surface.

Cabinet scrapers lose their"edge" after 10 minutes of use.

Familiarize yourself with how to

sharpen a cabinet scraper. (You

will need a mill file and a burnish-

ing tool.)When scraping, hold the sharp

cabinet scraper with both hands

and at a low angle to the wood.

Pull the scraper over the wood

surface. This takes some effort.

The shape of the burr on the

scraper allows approximately

0.02 millimeters of material to be

removed at a time.

When working around items

that are in place like a cook top,

use the cabinet scraper and ahandheld Sandvik type scraper.

Hold the cabinet scraper with

both hands at a low angle to

the wood. The shape of the burr

on the scraper allows approxi-

mately 0.02 millimeters of

material to be removed at a

time.

We used small spacer wood

blocks to lift the cook-top offthe counter.



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To access the area of counter that

the cook top over-lapped, we used

several small pieces of wood

scrap spacers to lift the cook top

an inch or two.

SAND THE COUNTER

Start prepping the main count-er wood surface with 80-grit to

remove some of the stains that

seeped into the wood. Work your

way up to 220-grit sand paper.

I used a tool-activated HEPA

vacuum by Dewalt to capture the

saw dust. The Dewalt vacuum

turns on when the sander is

turned on and stays on a few

seconds after the sander is

shut off to clear the vacuum

hose of dust.

Start prepping the main counter

wood surface with 80-grit to

remove some of the stains that

seeped into the wood. Work your

way up to 220-grit sand paper.


Note the floor protection we put

down to prevent damage and

keep dust off the floor.

We used a tool-activated HEPA

vacuum by Dewalt to capture

the saw dust. The Dewalt vacu-

um turns on when the sander is

turned on.

For edges and hard-to-reach areas,

hand sand the surface using small

blocks of wood for sanding blocks.


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For edges and hard-to-reach

areas, hand sand the surface using

small blocks of wood for sanding

blocks. The sanding blocks distrib-

ute the force of the abrasive for

even, consistent sanding.

Once the surface is smooth,

wipe down the entire countertop

several times with a tack cloth to

remove all wood dust so it does

not interfere with the finish.

APPLY THE FINISH

The EZ-Do finish is very easy

to apply and there is no need to

worry about lap marks. We applied

the finish to the wood in 4-by-4-ft.

areas using a high-quality brush

and then wiped off the finish in

circular motion using a clean rag.

The beauty of using a finish like

this is that it really is fool-proof. Its

easy to apply and easy to repair


Wipe down the countertop several

times with a tack cloth to remove all

wood dust.

The EZ-Do product used for this

countertop is a polyurethane gel that

achieves an easy-to-maintain finish

and is non-toxic to food contact.


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sections, and because you wipe it

off with a rag, there is no threat of

unsightly lap marks.

ADDITIONAL FINISH

COATS

Allow the first coat to dry per

the manufacturers recommen-

dations. Sand with 400-grit,

tack-cloth the surface and then

re-apply the finish. Several coats

can be built up to provide thicker

protection.

The EZ-Do product dries quickly,

is non-toxic, lead-free, water- and


We applied the finish to

the wood in 4x4' areas

using a high-quality brush.


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alcohol-resistant, plus it's self-

leveling which eliminates runs

and brush marks.

Refinishing a wood counter-top can be an easy and reward-

ing do-it-yourself project. If you

follow these guidelines and take

your time in the preparation

steps, you will end up with a nice

finish and years of protection for

the focal point of your kitchen.

Editors Note: Robert Robillard is

a remodeling contractor based

in Concord, MA, and editor of a

www.AConcordCarpenter.com.The EZ-Do product is self-levelingto eliminate runs and lap marks.

After sanding the first coat with

400-grit and wiping with a tack

cloth, you can add successive coats

to build up thicker protection.

EHT


55/100


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58/100


Installing Synthetic Shake

for a Long-lasting Roof

Weather protection starts at the top, and a roof

is not only a home's first line of defense but

also a major component of its outdoor dcor.

The modern Victorian house shown in this article was

badly in need of a new roof, so the homeowner turnedto DaVinci Roofscapes. DaVinci's Bellaforte Shake syn-

thetic roofing is engineered with the look of natural

wood shake, but its polymer construction and innova-

tive design make it substantially more durable and

easier to install.

We took impressions of real cedar and used our

proprietary technology to transfer those extremely

detailed impressions to our molds for this product,

says Mark Hansen, vice president of sales for DaVinci

Roofscapes. The final results are amazingly accurate."

Price is another advantage for homeowners who

want a high-quality roof with lasting value. Pricing forBellafort Shake compares to real cedar, high-end

asphalt or steel roofing, but the polymer tiles offer an

enhanced lifespan, insect and fire resistance, along

with low maintenance and the ability to

By Matt Weber


59/100


withstand severe weather condi-

tions. Plus, the product is backed

by the DaVinci 50-year limited

warranty.

A full roof tear-off and replace-

ment is a team effort, so although

this not a DIY project, a smart

homeowner will want to familiarize

themselves with the process to

make sure the job's done right.

Here's how the Bellaforte Shake

is installed.

OLD ROOF REMOVAL

Tearing off the old roof is a

big project, requiring an on-sitedumpster and tarps to cover the

surrounding ground to collect the

debris. Tearing off a roof can be

difficult and tiring, and workers

on the roof should always be

tethered to a fall-restraint harn-

ess. Shingle removers are long-

handled tools the workers use to

pull nails and scrape and pry off

old roofing. The old shingles and

paper are removed down to the

bare roof sheathing. Any exposed

rot or damaged sheathing must

be removed and replaced before

laying new underlayment.

A responsible contractor

will have a worker canvas thesurrounding ground with a

magnetic broom to collect all the

old roofing nails, so they don't end

up in someone's heel.

UNDERLAYMENT

With solid, smooth, code-com-

pliant roof sheathing in place,

a metal drip edge can then be

installed along all eaves. The drip

edge can be made from copper,

aluminum or coated steel.

The next step is installation of

a self-adhered membrane. The

workers on this project applied

Ice & Water Shield along all roof

edges, gable ends, against walls,

in the valleys and around projec-

tions such as vent pipes.

Roof underlayment require-

ments depend on whether the

home's local code requires a Class

A or Class C fire-rated system.

This project required a minimum

30-lb. felt (that meets ASTMD 226 Type II standard) or a

The old asphalt shingle roof

had leaked in several spots

and needed to be replaced.

AFTER

BEFORE

SHAKEIT UP


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synthetic underlayment over the

entire roof. Contractor Jim Butters

uses Titanium UDL-25 Plus

Synthetic Roofing Underlayment.The Titanium underlayment is

8 times lighter and 20 times

stronger than 30-lb. felt, and its

synthetic construction is imper-

vious to mold growth. For thesafety of the installers it also

has a "diamond plate" slip-resist-

ant coating.

Courses of the underlayment

are installed along the roof line,with the upper rows overlapping

the lower to shed water. The

roofers nail the underlayment

using hammers equipped with

metal tips for easy fastener

replacement and increased

speed.

The workers remove all the old

roofing materials down to the

deck.

Tarps line the surrounding

ground to collect roof debris.


First step is installation of the

metal drip edge.


62/100

BEGIN INSTALLATION

The Bellaforte shakes are

installed with copper, stainless

steel or hot-dipped galvanized

roofing nails. (Ring-shank nails

should be used in high wind

areas.) The nails should be long

enough to penetrate through the

roof deck and exceed it by 3/16

inch. In most cases, 1-1/2-in.

nails will work.

The first course is appropriately

called the starter course, and with

Bellaforte Shake this consists of

specially made narrow tiles that

line the eaves. To keep the starter

row even the installers snapped a

chalk line 3 inches above the bot-

tom edge of the roof so the tiles

achieve a 1-in. overhang. The

starter course must be exactly

Self-adhered membrane is

applied to all roof edges, gable

ends, against walls, in the val-

leys and around projections.

The roof deck is covered with

Titanium UDL-25 Plus Synthetic

Roofing Underlayment.


The underlayment overlaps each

lower row to shed moisture.

The simple solution topatio cover problems!

Made in USA


63/100

straight or the subsequent cours-

es of tile will be misaligned. The

tiles should be spaced 3/8- to

1/2-in apart to allow for expansion.

FIELD TILES

The field tiles must be laid from

left to right. The first tile should

seat directly on the starter tile.

The field tiles are engineered with

a "stop" or ledge on the bottom

that rests directly on the top of the

starter. This makes placement and

alignment extremely easy once

the starter course is in place. The

tile is positioned as far left as pos-

sible. It should then be nailed on

the tab first and then on the top

left hand corner.

Once the first full shake tile is

in place, a partial shake tile with

a minimum 3-in. removed from

the left side of a field tile should


Roof staging brackets and fall-

restraint harnesses are critical

safety equipment for roof work.

W valley metal was used at all

roof valleys to divert water.


64/100


65/100

be placed on top of it to start the

second course. This partial tile

offsets the joints between tiles

from row to row to ensure proper

drainage.

Installation should continue so

that the gutter of this next tile is

placed under right side of first

tile and is sitting on the ledge of

the starter tile below. The tile

should lock in place when pulled


The field tiles are installed with a specific nailing pattern,

and the self-aligning ledges keep the rows on track.A starter strip lines all the roof eaves.

At the wall abutments, step

flashing is installed under each

transitional tile.

A partial tile begins the second

row so the joints of the tiles are

staggered.


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down or to the right. The tab

should then be nailed, the top

left corner should be nailed,

and the top right corner of thefirst tile should be nailed. The

installation continues in this man-

ner, installing several courses in

a stair-step pattern. Once the

installers get the pattern down,the self-aligning tiles help speed

up the installation considerably.

The outside edge of the tiles

will be covered by tile of a differ-

ent profilea rake tile on thegable ends, or a hip and ridge

tile on a hipso precise cutting

isn't necessary. The roofers on

this project cut the tiles with

utility knives and a handheld

circular saw.

FLASHING

As with any roofing project,

careful flashing is critical to pre-

vent water penetration. Flashing

should be used in all areas in


The step flashing is installed

over the old flashing for addi-

tional moisture protection.

Several courses of the

Bellaforte shake were installed

at a time in a stair-step pattern.

CUSTOM DESIGNED

HANDCRAFTED

BUILT TO YOUR SPECS!

Goddard Manufacturing CompanyPO Box 502, Logan KS 67646

Toll Free: 800-536-4341

www.spiral-staircases.com

Goddard SpiralStairs

At Goddard Manufacturing Co., we specializein custom designed, handcrafted spiralstaircases - built to your specifications.You can choose from several different stylesof spiral staircases and our professionalcraftsmen can custom design a spiralstaircase to fit almost any application.

MENTION THIS AD FOR A $10.00 DISCOUNT!


68/100

which the roof intersects a vertical

wall, dormer, chimney, skylight or

any other protrusions. The use of

copper, a minimum 28 gauge clad

steel or a minimum .019

aluminum can be used.

With most of the old flashing

still in decent condition, contractor

Jim Butters left the old material in

place and and installed additional

step-flashing where needed as a

belt-and-suspenders approach to

protection. At the wall abutments,

step flashing is installed under

each transitional tile and held in

place by the nail that each tile

receives at the top. A transition

tile is a tile without the alignment

ledge on the back, and these can

be fabricated in the field by cut-

ting off the back ledge with a knife

or planer.

Butters installs his valley flash-

ings as a "closed" valley. For a

closed valley, W valley metal

should be used. The center divert-

er should be a minimum 1-1/2

inch. Strips of 18-in. self-adhered

membrane should be placed on

top of the valley metal, an inch

away from the center diverter, and

should extend past the outside

edge of the valley.


Hip and ridge tiles are installed

over flashing at the eave.

The hip and ridge tiles provide a

decorative transition plus waterprotection for the cut tiles that

line a hip or ridge.

Rake tiles are installed to

finish the gable ends. Rake

tiles can be installed with

two screws into the

gable wall or fascia.


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FINAL TILES

An 18-in. strip of self-adhered

membrane should be run vertical-

ly on top of the underlayment on

gable ends. The field tiles placedon the gable end can be nailed

anywhere that they will be covered

by the rake tile. Rake tiles are L-

shaped tiles that give the rake a

finished appearance. The first tile

is aligned with the first Bellafortecourse and the succeeding tiles

overlap each other. Rake tiles can

be installed with two screws into

the gable wall or fascia.

For hip roofs, a piece of flashing

should be installed along the bot-tom 6 inches of the hip to protect

the area under the seam formed

by the cut field tiles. The cut tiles

are butted together to form the

bottom piece of hip and ridge.

Once these two tiles are in place,

a full hip and ridge tile is installed

and pulled down so the outside

corners just reach the bottom of

the roof. The tiles then overlap as

they proceed up the roof.

NEW ROOF

The end result is a striking

improvement. The champagne color

selected by the homeowner nicely

complements the outdoor dcor,

and the neighbors were paying

their compliments before the roof

was even completely installed. The

Bellaforte Shake turned out to be

a great aesthetic improvement,

a solid investment in value and a

reliable protective barrier from thenatural elements.


EHT

For this roof project, the EHTstaff used the new Perma-Boot, a gasket-

less, two-piece pipe boot repair system designed to permanently repair the

most common type of roof leakthe leak around the vent pipes that pene-

trate your roof. The Perma-Boot slides right over your existing roof vent

boot. Installation takes just a few minutes, and no tools are required. It's

designed for all standard roof pitches3/12 to 12/12and is guaranteed

to be leak-free for the life of your shingles. Visit www.permabootstore.com.

PERMA-BOOT


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72/100


RACK'EM

UP

By Matt Weber

Organize your

work space with

a sturdy storage

rack for sheet

goods.

My workshop is a detached two-car garage that serves as my

laboratory for all things related to Extreme How-To, from photo

shoots and material storage to pre-fab work and project prep.

I try to keep the place organized, but the work space goes through

cycles of relative order and total chaos. During one of the recent chaotic

episodes I got fed up with the various sheet goods that littered my shop,

obscuring sight of tools and supplies and generally obstructing my pas-sage from Point A to Point B. I had planned for years to build a storage

rack to solve this problem and finally found the motivation to do so.

What I did not find was a plan to build a storage rack that fit my

needs. Sure, you'll find a variety of woodworking plans online, but most

of these storage units are very large and often designed for a great deal

of capacity. While many of the plans I found would work wonderfully for

a full-fledged woodworking shop, I'm not a full-fledged woodworker. I'm

more of a jack-of-all-trades (master of none) DIY guy who usually has a

half dozen various sheets floating around, so I did not need a monster


73/100

rack to hold dozens of sheets. Not

only would the extra storage space

go largely unused, but the large

size of the "pro" racks would pose

a new problem in my cramped

shop by occupying square footage

that I could put to better use.

After a few hours of research,

I decided to get creative. The

rack shown in this article is my

own creation, a concept that I

cobbled together from a few other

rack/shelf designs. My design

provides enough storage for my

materials, keeps the supplies

against the wall and out of my

way, and even has an upper shelf

for further storage of long items

like 2x4s and pipe clamps. If you're

a part-time carpenter or hobbyist

woodworker, then maybe this rack

will suit your needs as well.

LOCATION

You will need probably 9 or 10

feet of available wall space for

placement of the rack. However,

the sheets go in and out of the

end of the rack, meaning that you

will need clearance at one end or

the other to insert or retrieve the

sheets, bearing in mind that a full

sheet is 8 feet long.

My solution was to install the

rack next to the shop's entryway.

Since I could not block the door-

way with another stationary shelf

or cabinet without impeding my

entrance to the shop, this was an

area of "dead" space whenever

the door was not in use. The door-

way was located at the corner of

my shop and adjacent to an over-

head garage door. So, whenever

I need to pull out a sheet that is

larger than the 5 or 6 feet of clear-

ance at the end of the rack, I can

simply lift the overhead door to

gain more room. This seemed to

me the most logical way to econo-

mize space, and you should plan

accordingly when locating the rack

in your shop.

MOUNTING

The rack is stationary and

mounted to the wall of my shop

to provide plenty of strength and

stability to hold the heavy sheets.

My shop is a wood-framed building

with the interior walls sheathed in

plywood. The rack's cross-braces

that are installed against the wall

are fastened into the solid stud

framing with 3-in. screws.

If you are installing the rack on

a block or concrete wall, then use

the appropriate wall anchors or

concrete screws to mount

the rack.

Snap a chalk line on to

guide the cut for your

angled supports.

I used the leftover 2x8 pieces from the angledsupports as blocking for the floor of the rack.

The floor was made of 1/2" plywood.


RACK'EM UP


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75/100

ANGLED SUPPORTS

The rack shown is designed

with three angled supports for

the sheet goods. The anglekeeps sheets tilted backward

and stable, while providing solid

support so the sheets do not

bend or bow.

I cut the angled supports from

2x8's using a circular saw, and

each one measures 50 inches

long. The top end of the support

is 2 inches wide while the bot-

tom is 6 inches wide. I marked

these measurements on each

board and snapped a chalk lineto guide the cut. I then ripped

the angle with a circular saw.

To make the most of your

materials, I recommend cutting

the angled supports first and

then using the cut-off pieces as

blocking for the floor of the rack.


Fill the nail holes with wood

putty and sand smooth to

avoid snaggling the corners

of the sheet goods.

The angled supports are

spaced 40" apart.

RACK'EM UP


76/100


5 x 5

triangular

gussets

2 x 2 screwed to wall



1/2 ply

angled suports

cut from 2 x 8

measuring 2 at

top and 6

at bottom

19 7/8

50

40

188

52

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77/100

FLOOR

The rack rests on a raised

plywood floor. The plywood is

a smoother surface than the

diamond-tread flooring I have on

the shop floor, which makes it

easier to slide the sheets in and

out. Raising the floor helps pre-

vent damaging the edge of the

sheets when pulling them in and

out, plus it protects the materials

from liquid in case of spills on

the floor.

For the floor I used 1/2-in. ply-

wood at its full 8-ft. length and

ripped to 18 inches wide. After

installing the supports, this width

affords 12 inches of space for the

sheets. The thickest sheet goods

measure 3/4 inch, meaning I

could feasibly store almost 16

sheets on edge with this size of

rack, which is more than I ever

have on hand. You can, however,

customize the dimensions of the

rack to accommodate whatever

you need.

Any nominal 2x stock will work

as blocking to raise the floor. As

mentioned, I used the scrap cut-

off sections from the angled sup-

ports. The idea is to have solid

blocking beneath the floor to

prevent it from bowing or dipping.


The horizontal cross-braces are

mounted into the wall studs.

I mounted the angled supports

with 3" screws driven into the

end grain of the cross-braces.

RACK'EM UP


78/100


79/100


I cut the 5" triangular gussets on my table saw. The L-brackets are made of 2x2 material and prevent

the sheets from spilling out of the rack.

I arranged the blocking flush with

the perimeter of the plywood for a

finished appearance and then fas-

tened the floor onto the blocking

with countersunk drywall screws.

Fill the recessed screw heads

in the floor with wood putty and

then sand them smooth. This will

eliminate holes in the floor that

can snag the corner of a sheet.

SHEET SUPPORT

To assemble the components

that will support the sheet goods,

first locate one of the angled sup-

ports at the center of the floor

with the square side facing the

wall. The 6-in. end rests on the

floor with the 2-in. end at the top.

The back of the support should

be plumb and flush with the wall.

I located the other two angled

supports on either side of the

center support, spaced 40 inches

apart. I then square-cut 2x4 stock

into four 40-in. pieces to serve as

cross-braces.

To mount the lower horizontal

cross-braces, I supported them

temporarily with a scrap 12-in.

block as I leveled them between

the angled supports. Once in

position I sank 3-in. deck screws

through the cross-braces into

solid stud framing.

I installed the second set of

cross-braces in similar fashion,

mounting them level between

the supports approximately 2

feet above the lower braces.

Until this point the angled sup-

ports had been standing loose

and unfastened. Once the cross-

braces were secured, I fastened

the angled supports to them by

driving screws through the sides

of the supports and into the end-

grain of the braces. (Note: You will

actually have to install either the

left or right cross-braces first, fas-

ten the center support, and then

install the cross-braces on the

other side. Otherwise, the braces

block access of your drill/driver to

the center support).

RETAINER BRACKETS

At this point the rack offers

support for full 4x8 sheets tilted

back at an angle. To browse the

I installed the gussets on the L-brackets using acombination of deck screws and Gorilla Glue.

Before installing the top shelf I added 2x2 cross-braces flush with the tops of the angled supports.

RACK'EM UP


80/100

sheet inventory I needed to be able to "page" through

the sheets. However, to tilt the heavy sheets forward

is to invite them to fall to the floor and off the rack,

thus I needed a type of rail to keep the sheets con-

tained on the rack.

I used three L-shaped brackets mounted to the tops

of the angled supports and fastened to the front of

the rack floor. To make the L-brackets, I ripped 2x4's

into 2x2 material. The top piece of each bracket

should measure the width of the floor plus the width

of your nominal 2x2. In my case, this meant the top

pieces of the L-brackets measured about 19-7/8 in.

The long, vertical legs of the L-brackets should meas-

ure the length of the angled supports plus the height

of the rack floor (52 inches).

I preassembled the L-brackets prior to installing.

The short piece of the brackets must be placed over

the long pieces so they are supported from the floor.

I fastened the bracket first with a screw through the

short piece driven into the end grain of the long

piece.

I then strengthened the L-bracket joint with trian-

gular gussets cut from some scrap 3/8-in. plywood.

The gussets were cut on my table saw as right trian-

gles measuring 5 inches on each square side. I cut

six gussets and installed them on each side of the

L-brackets, sandwiching the joint flush along the

square edges. I fastened each gusset with a com-

bination of wood screws and polyurethane glue to

prevent movement.

Screw the L-brackets onto the top of the angled

supports and into the front of the floor platform.

Be sure to use a level to check for plumb, and use

a carpenter's square to make sure the bottom of

the brackets are aligned squarely with the angled

supports.


The top shelf is made from 1/2" plywood

to provide additional storage space.


81/100

TOP SHELF

Although the rack will now hold

sheet goods, you can enhance its

storage capability by simplymounting a plywood shelf atop the

sturdy 2x2 L-brackets. Additional

2x2 cross-braces will help support

it. I ripped an 8-ft. sheet of ply-

wood to 20 inches thick, which fit

against the wall and flush over the

tops of the brackets. I fastened it

with wood screws into the 2x2s.

The top shelf gives the rack a

more finished appearance,

strengthens the entire structure,

and provides more than 13

square feet of storage space.

When using the rack, I recom-

mend stowing your full sheetsagainst the angled supports to

provide a large unbroken plane

to lean all your other materials

against, including plywood, dry-

wall, plastic laminate, MDF, HDF

or OSB. The rack's top shelf then

provides a perfect place to stowlong boards and other materials

that you'll need for your next

home-improvement project.


EHT

The rack stores virtually

any sheet measuring 4x8'

and smaller, including drywall,

plywood, plastic laminate,

MDF, HDF or OSB.

RACK'EM UP


82/100

Severe water damage and flooding affects one in four

homes during a typical 30 year mortgage. Statistically,

you are3 times more likelyto have a major

water intrusion than a fire.

Often times there is little that can be done to prevent a

flood or water intrusion. But you can take steps to protectsurfaces from water damage and to minimize structural

repairs after the water is gone.

PROFLEXTM HYDRA SEAL is a semi-fluid applied

product designed for waterproofing and moisture control

applications.

HYDRA SEAL can be applied to concrete and exterior

grade wood surfaces, and will adhere to a variety of

irregular forms such as base flashing and walls.

Ideal for use in showers, steam rooms, bathrooms,

and areas requiring positive waterproofing.

APPLIES EASILY WITH BRUSH OR NAP ROLLER

CRACK ISOLATION TO 1/4 POSITIVE WATER-PROOFING PROTECTION

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FROM WATER DAMAGE!

PROFLEXHYDRA SEAL

877-PROFLEX (877-577-6453)

www.proflex.us

PROFLEXHYDRA SEAL


83/100

Homes are usually built one

of three ways. They are

either constructed on a slab

foundation, on a block knee wall

providing a crawl space or on

top of a full basement. The first

method and the latter method are

not concerned with venting issues

or pesky animals looking for a warm

home in the winter. Houses thatare constructed on a crawl space

face both of these problems.

A crawl space allows the home-

owner access to the underside

of his home and provides a con-

venient place to run all of the

ground-floor plumbing, electrical

and HVAC lines. However, there

are also negatives associated

with crawl spaces. A crawl space

must have a point of ingress and

egress, but it should also be

secure so that the neighbor's

worrisome cat or the midnight

prowling raccoon don't decide

to take up residence in your HVAC

ductwork. In addition, a crawl

space should be constructed so

that it can be closed off to the

outside air in the winter months to

keep out freezing air. Otherwise,

pipes could freeze, and your home

will be harder to heat.

It would seem simple to just

simply block up every hole in the

crawl space to keep animals and

By Clint C. Thomas, Esq. Photography by Zoe Thomas


Install a Foundation VentBring fresh air to the crawl space.

QUICK FIX

This automatic vent will close at 40 degrees

Fahrenheit and open at 70 degrees Fahrenheit.


84/100

FROM

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85/100

cold air out, but this is not the

case. A crawl space needs to

be able to breath to reduce the

build-up of moisture, especially

in the warm seasons of the year.

Remember, water is probably a

house's number one enemy. If too

much moisture builds up under a

house it can cause mold and even-

tually lead to rot. In addition, ter-

mites enjoy warm, moist and stag-

nant air when searching for dead

wood. Proper foundation venting

will help to reduce the possibility

of a termite attack.

In order to combat these prob-

lems on a crawl space, it is a

good idea to have a working door

that can be used for ingress and

egress along with multiple vents

strategically positioned around the

perimeter. Vents come in various

types, but I prefer ones that canbe open and closed depending

upon the time of year and the

outside temperature.

Witten makes an automatic vent

that will close itself at 40 degrees

Fahrenheit and open itself at 70

degrees Fahrenheit. The Witten

vents have a plastic grid on one

side and wire screen on the other

with louvers in between to help

keep out creepy-crawly things.

Many building codes recommendone square foot of ventilation for

QUICK FIX


Once all of the bricks were

removed I ran a heavy-duty

putty knife along the cement

foundation to clean off any

loose mortar.

You'll need a masonry trowel to

place the brick mortar to install

the vent.

AWESOME FOR

UNDER THE SINK

JOBS

The Workers Lounge

provides a padded,

comfortable work sur-

face for the toughest

under the sink jobs.

See those harder to

see area in dark withincluded hands free

flashlight holder.

Pockets fo

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