Fashion Group 2 Presentation Final

7/30/2019 Fashion Group 2 Presentation Final

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Fashion Constructed Image

Group 2

David Bromley, Hannah Broad, Dexter

Bailey-Mason, Rajesh Bhusal and

Thomas Meadows


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Concept

For our concept we have decided to base it on

gender identity and the refusal to conform to a

standard. The evolving trend androgyny in the

fashion industry and how the masculine-

feminine boundaries have blurred. We want to

focus on Portraiture rather than Fashion

photography to focus on the model and thedefining features and own identity.


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Roles & Responsibilities

David: Organization, Shoot Co-Ordinator and

Heath and Safety

Hannah: Styling

Dexter: Set Building and Camera Master

Rajesh: Lighting

Thomas: Casting, Characterisation and Hair &Makeup


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Historical ResearchAugust Sander


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Contemporary Research

Rineke Dijkstra


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Patrick Demarchelier


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Agyness Deyn

Andrej Pejic

Freja Beha Erichsen


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Contextual Research

Identity is a person's conception and expression of their

individuality or group affiliations.

Identity may be defined as the distinctive characteristic

belonging to any given individual, or shared by all

members of a particular social category or group.

Many people gain a sense of positive self-esteem fromtheir identity groups, which furthers a sense of

community and belonging.

Identity


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Contextual Research

Gender identity refers to a person's private sense of, and subjective

experience of, their own gender.

This is generally described as one's private sense of being a man or

a woman, consisting primarily of the acceptance of membershipinto a category of people: male or female.

Each of us has a biological sex whether we are female, male, or

intersex. Our gender is our social and legal status as men or women.

Each of us has a gender and gender identity. Our gender identity isour deepest feelings about our gender. We express our gender

identity in the way that we act masculine, feminine, neither, or

both.

Gender Identity


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Contextual Research

Most children begin to identify themselves as either a boy or a girl between the ages of three

and four years old. They engage in play that their family and friends connect with their gender.

For a very small number, this passing uncertainty and discomfort, known as gender

dysmorphia, can develop into gender identity disorder.

For some children social expectations lead to them conforming to their gender role, only to

develop the self awareness to realise that theyre uncomfortable with their gender when they

reach adolescence. This discomfort is always associated with profound feelings of

disconnection with the sexual organs, a sense that they are somehow wrong.

A major difficulty with gender identity disorder is that it's a rare condition.

Estimates vary from one or two people in every 100,000 to about one person in every 12,000 .

This means that people who have gender identity disorder can experience profound loneliness.

Added to this is the confusion that often arises in the minds of both healthcare professionals

and the public about exactly what gender identity disorder is. To say that it s a desire to be a

member of the opposite sex is to underestimate the strength of emotion and impact it can

have on a persons life.

Gender Identity Disorder


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Contextual Research

Boys Don't Cryis a 1999 American independent romantic drama film directed by

Kimberly Peirce and co-written by Andy Bienen.

The film is a dramatization of the real-life story of Brandon Teena, a trans man played in

the film by Hilary Swank, who is beaten, raped and murdered by his male acquaintancesafter they discover he is anatomically female.

The picture explores the themes of freedom, courage, identity and empowerment.

'Boys Don't Cry' The Story of Brandon Teena


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The Set/SpaceWe have decided to run with the industrial theme forour set/space. Our first idea was to use an old

abandoned industrial factory, but after meetings and

tutorials, it was decide that this was not achievable, so

we changed our idea. We kept the industrial space,

however took a more futuristic approach on it and

came up with our own design and sculpture which

would be the focus of our set. It still works with ourtypical industrial view on intensive labor being a male

controlled space and also runs with our theme of

gender ambiguity and will force the viewer to look into

the image and question the gender role.


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These images were chosen to show our

ideas for the derelict and abandoned

theme we had initially thought of using.

These were our early ideas for the floor

and walls.


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These spaces show dereliction, abandonment, decay.


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We then considered these images for their colour and texture.


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We moved away from the idea of a

derelict or abandoned space andinstead favoured the idea of a

minimalist space with a piece of

sculpture as the focal point of the set,

similar to the image on the left.


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Further research led to the idea of

creating an industrial based

sculpture and we wanted to have

metal theme. We wanted to make it

look like it was being held togetherwith large industrial bolts like the

ones to the left.

On my travels to a I

saw this large barn

that I took

photographs of

because it had similaraspects to the

industrial theme we

wanted to use, with

the metal girders being

the structure.


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Daniel Libeskind


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Lewis Baltz


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We looked at abstract buildings for our sculpture

ideas as we felt that the abstract shapes would

fit in well with the androgyny theme. Androgyny

can be obscure and the different shapes that the

these buildings have, we felt, we reflected in our

set design.


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We decided upon an abstract sculpture based upon all the research we had

so far done. We thought our sculpture should appear to be made from metal,

wood, or concrete.


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We constructed an symmetrical abstract sculpture

We made a frame first so that the sculpture would have something to

be built around and to keep it up right.

We then built the actual sculpture out of poly boards, making the

whole sculpture 3D

To get the concrete effect we used plaster as it was easy tomanipulate it to make it look like concrete

We then painted it a light grey to represent actual concrete.

The process


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Set Design


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Floor Plan


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Framing on how we originally started as it was going to be a flat

walled scupture with no back.


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we decidedthat making the sculpture 3D would allow us more

flexbility when taking our photos and would be able to move the

model more around the set and shoot from different and moreinteresting angles.


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We went for a concrete effect instead of metal or wood,

we acchieved this by using plaster and coverd our

structure in it to create a concrete effect.


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Plastering the sides

We smoothed the plaster off as

smooth as we could get it with a float

then once it had dried gave it a lightsand with some very fine sand paper

Th S l t it t d St d 3D i


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The Sculpture as it stands. Stood, as a 3D piece


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Styling

A take on the modern minimalism

emphasizing structure and fluidity. Also

blurring the lines between the gender of the

clothing by focusing on unisex styled pieceshighlighted through shapes and lines.

The colour pallet will be monochrome .


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Historical ResearchHelmut Newton

Created in 1966 by famous couturier Yves Saint Laurent, the Le Smoking

tuxedo suit for women was the first of its kind to earn attention in the

fashion world and in popular culture. It pioneered long, minimalist,

androgynous styles for women, as well as the use of power suits and the

pantsuit in modern-day society.


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Historical ResearchKatherine Hepburn

A poster girl for androgynous chic, Katharine Hepburn almost single-handedly broke

down the female dress code by wearing mens trousers, oversized shirts and, if rumour

has it, never owning a single dress or skirt. Nowadays menswear inspired clothing for the

fashionable femme fatale is hardly a sartorial shocker, but in the 1930s, 40s and 50s,

Hepburns relaxed approach and apparent aversion to typically feminine clothing caused

a stir and carved the way for the tomboy looks of today.


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Gucci Spring/Summer 2012 Art

Deco Inspired Collection

On the tailoring side, Giannini hewed to fairly

androgynous lines. Jackets were short and boxy and

topped high-waisted pants with front pleats ordeep tuxedo stripes down the sides. If there was

nothing twenties-ish about the silhouettes, the era

informed the jackets' geometric designs and theirDeco buttons and fastenings.


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Trends


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Trends The Rise of Oversize

Shoulders were dropped, lengths were long and trousers had low

crotches. Vogue fashion director Lucinda Chambers explains. "It's

a look ideal for a confident tomboy who likes to keep things

simple, strict and streamlined."

One Of The BoysWith transsexual model Lea T and "femiman" icon Andrej Pejic among the

androgynous models who walked on the AW 11-12 runways, audiences were

primed for a gender shake-up. All the girls will be borrowing from the boys,

with pinstripes, white shirts and trousers providing a fresh riff on tailoring,while silk ties, cummerbands and overcoats pack a manly punch.

Feminine curves were literally enveloped under this masculine aesthetic, as the

super-sized, slouchy cuts and jackets and overcoats shown at Stella McCartney,

Nicole Farhi, AlexanderWang proved


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Summer in the ShadeDarkness has fallen, shifting the palette back to black. There's a new

softness here, however, as billowing layers and sheer fabrics bring

lightness to the shadows.

Mannish ShoeThere are two schools of thought when it comes to this season s blokey

shoes contrast the masculinity of the look with pretty floral dresses or

embrace the androgyny with cropped, ankle-baring cigarette pants and

crisp white shirts. At Daks and Marc Jacobs, schoolgirl looks were given

the disco treatment with gold and glitter finishes.

Shaped

Razor-sharp cutting skims curves with super-fine accuracy. Black and

charcoal grey make for a dramatic, graphic palette. Make like

Jaeger London, Michael Kors or Gianfranco Ferre.


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AW 13/14 Paris Fashion Week

Womens: Margiela, Stella McCartney, Stella McCartney, Hussein Chalayan

Mens: Lanvin, Lanvin, Rick Owens, Rick Owens

Ph h W i i d


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Photographers We are inspired

by

August sander

Peter Lindbergh

Jonathan Waiter

Willy Vanderperre

Juergen Teller

Chadwick Tyler

Walker Evans

Mathieu Vladimir Alliard

S li d d i W h


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Stylists and designers We have

taken inspiration fromOlivier RizzoPanos Yiapanis


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Rick Owens

Oth I i ti F St li


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Other Inspiration For Styling:

Art Deco Art Deco represented many things for many people. It

was the style of the flapper girl and the factory, the

luxury ocean liner and the skyscraper, the fantasy world

of Hollywood and the real world of the Harlem

Renaissance.

Art Deco affected all forms of design, from the fine and

decorative arts to fashion, film, photography, transport

and product design. It was modern and it was

everywhere.


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Art Deco The sculpture, painting and architecture of the building all

indicate the strong art deco design influences of the 1920's.Portraying the new-found importance of symmetry and

straight lines in this era, which can then be seen as a starting

point and inspiration for the upcoming androgyny fashion

trend.


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Jumpsuit,

Zara, 39.99

We chose this

because we

thought it

was a

combination

of the tailored

style we

wanted and

common

industrial

workwear

such as theoverall.

Dress, COS,

69.99

The dress was

chosen

because

Victoria

suggested to

use a long

black dress in a

styling tutorial

and i liked the

idea of that.

This particular

one was

chosen

because it was

relatively

shapeless

simple which

is none

gender

specific. Also

the pleats in

the dress link

with the lines

with in the

architecture.

Trousers,

TopshopBoutique, 38

For the

trousers, we

wanted simple

black, slightly

tapered,tailored style as

they are worn

by both

genders.

Coat, Zara, 69.99

We wanted to go for

an 'oversized' slightly

masculine coat whichhas lines and shapes

with in it so that why

this one was chosen. It

was also a feminine

take of the classic

'boyfriend' coat/jacketwhich I thought

worked well too.


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Hair and Make up

For hair and make up we have decided to go

with very minimal like the styling.

Plain face with darker eyes

Using make up up to contour and define

features like the jaw and cheek bones which

could be specific to either gender


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Makeup initial ieas

For Make up

pur inital

ideas like

the hair very

simple and

and natural

with only a

few touches

to get rid of

imperfection

s. add shape

to the faceand perhaps

to give the

models face

a more

moody look.


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Makeup

For the makeup we want a very simple natural look so

all I did was use fountation to coverup imperfections.

I kept the under eye area clear to give the model a

more moody. Darkend the eyebrows slighlty andcontoured the the face give give more definition and

to add a more masculine edge.

l


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Hair Initial ieas

For hair our initial idea is for

something very natural and

simple. We particulary want to

use a girl with long hair so that

we have more options to work

with. So we can create

movement images and to add

texture and frameing to the

model as it fits with our

architectural set theme. We

also like the idea of a slicked

back look becuase it gives a

better view of the models face

and of the clothes as well as

suiting with the tailured look.


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Hairor the first 2 looks being

the coat and the dress we

want the models hair to be

very natural as she has the

dark thick long slightly

messy hair that we want.

We feel that it

compliments the outfits

and we can createmovement shots with her

hair.

For the third look being

the jumpsuit we want

more of the outfit and the

models face shown so

where going to do a

simple slick backed look

which also gives the look

an extra edge and view


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Lighting


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g g


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We wanted to gain inspirations from more

than just photography, therefore, we looked

movies and videos. We also looked at

posters to understand lighting techniques

they used to draw attention of the viewers.The use ofcontrast between the darks and

light was very important as tweaking the

balance between these two is what created

such effects.

Films


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Some of the movies we looked at included Blue Velvet which is film by David Lynch who is

known for his unique cinematic style. The film is quite interesting with a lot of cinematography

and use of light. Most of the scenes have huge contrast between the dark and the light producing

varied tones of shadows which was something we thought, created a mysterious environment.

The harsh contrast and highlights in some of the scenes wasnt something we liked as it would be

overpowering and would portray a different meaning than what we want.


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Wong Kar-wais style of film-making alongside Christopher Doyles

cinematography resulted in some very mesmerizing series of films

that visually grasped the audience. The lighting techniques in these

movies helped us to visualize how different lightings look like. We

also learned about the usage of minimal light sources to create very

intriguing atmosphere.

Existing Fashion Extracts


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Magazine extracts of fashion ads.

We looked at different kind of lighting set ups we

could use from magazines. We rounded up the bestones we liked and put them together. This gave us

variety to choose from and finally decide what sort

of style we liked.

The last two images were most favourable ones

because we believe that they are quite fascinating

and there is a sense of mystery in them.

Black and white / Duotone


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After researching and analysing through

a lot of photographic images and also

films, we like the idea of going down the

route of black and white format for our

concept because the duotone

appearance will go with the idea of

ambiguity, mystery and androgyny while

being very bold yet subtle with soft

tones of grey.

Patrick Demarchelier


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Patricks style is really simple on the eyes, while being strong

yet sensitive. The way that the lighting has been set up, puts

the model into attention while keeping the background in a

complementary mode.

The lighting position is what we really find appealing in his

work. It is quite consistent. We also think that this setup will

be enough to light the set as well as the background along

with the model which is what we want because it will help

to maintain consistency throughout.

Final References


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We decided to go with the references here for our final

concept. The lighting method is very suitable for the theme

because it enhances the idea of mystery and ambiguity.

Furthermore, we believe that this lighting concept will

consist of minimal light sources which will help us to create a

more consistent editorial series.

Final Lighting for Set


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Casting


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Historical

Aphroditus

Fanny Cornforth


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Turn of the century

Katherine Hepburn

LouiseBrooks


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Models


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Alla Kostromichovaamra cerkezovic Bo Don

bartek borowiec Carolina Sjstrand Brittany


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Cooper Thompson Dasha Sushko

Iselin-Steiro Sofiya


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julia nobis Micaela Dietrich madison smukalla


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Emily

Height 55

Hair long blonde

Eyes blue

Dress size 12

Shoe size 5


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Katy

Height 55

Hair long brown

Eyes brown

Dress size 10

shoe size 5


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Victoria

Height 56

Hair long brown

Eyes brown

Dress size 6

Shoe size 5

ll


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Ellie

Height 60

Hair long blonde

Eyes brown

Dress size 12

Shoe size 8


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Keri

Height 55

Hair mid length blonde

Eyes brown

Dress size 10

Shoe size 5

i


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serita

Height 56

Hair long blonde

Eyes blue

Dress size 6

Show size 5

H h


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Heather

Height 58

Hair mid length brown

Eyes brown

Dress size 8

Show size 7

N li


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Natalia

Height 58

Hair long brown

Eyes brown

Dress size 10

Shoe size 7

We did not have any proper casting

photographs of Natalia because the

casting lead failed to deliver them

Fi l I


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Final Images


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Edit i l L t


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Editorial Layout

With this editorial layout we wanted a variety of types of images that includedstill-life, portraiture and full body shots our reason behind wanting to do this was

to break up the series so it was not so repetitive . We decided that with out final

layout that we wanted a variety of different angles of the sculpture again to make

the series not so repetitive. We thought to have the jumpsuit image as a double

page spread because we felt that this image was more of a landscape and because

of the negative space in the image. We decided to put the dress and coat imagetogether because of the central composition they both share and finally we

decided to put the blurred image and the image of the 4 fabric images together

because we felt that worked well together because of the unusual nature of both

of the images.

R j t d I f Fi l Edit


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Rejected Images from Final Edit

Coat

Dress


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Jumpsuit


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Jacket


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Fabric


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Evaluation


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Evaluation

During this project we have been exploring this idea of gender identity,the refusal to conform to a standard, the evolving trend of Androgyny in

the Fashion Industry and how the masculine-feminine boundaries have

blurred. From this project we think that we have a better understanding of

the term "androgyny" and other terms such as "Gender Identity". The

positives we can draw from this project are that we thought that we had agood concept, We thought the research was good and does somewhat

visually translate our ideas into our final images, We thought that our final

images are good and We thought that sometimes we worked as a group

However, Things we felt could of been improved on was testing because

we believe there was not enough testing, the group could of worked

together much better, casting could of been improve on, We felt that

things kept being changed, especially the set which had quite a negative

effect on our ability to have confidence in our ideas

Working Strategies


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Working Strategies

Managing and Organising: In terms of Managing and Organising we thought that we thought that we

could of done better because we thought that sometimes during theproject we were unorganised especially during the production week

Communication and Work Ethic:

In terms of Communication and Work Ethic we thought that we had goodcommunication during the project because always tried to keep in contactwith each other whether we needed to meet and we thought that workethic was good but I could have been better because we felt there was alack on enthusiasm during the project

Time Keeping and Commitment:

In terms of Timekeeping and Commitment we thought that we could ofdone better when it came to time keeping because we were behind withproject in comparison with other groups and that commitment could havebeen a lot better because the majority of the time group members were

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Fashion Group 2 Presentation Final

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