Fashion&Beauty Italy Autumn 2015 Russian/ English

Alta Roma Birth of the new

Moscow star

ARINA KUZMINA

Silvia Venturini Fendi and Alta RomaElena Baturina supporting design talentsWord to fashion buyers

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Fashion&Beauty_400x265-TRU D1.indd 1 04/08/15 16:57

Alta Roma Birth of the new

Moscow star

ARINA KUZMINA

Silvia Venturini Fendi and Alta RomaElena Baturina supporting design talentsWord to fashion buyers

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EARRINGS SOIE, DIOR, dior.com


FASHION10. EXPERTAltaRomas president Silvia Venturini Fendi bets on the youth Altaroma

12. TRENDSStyles for every taste: from patchwork to gothic : 70-

18. ACCESSORIESTrendy details that speak for you ,

22. INTERVIEWRising TV star Arina Kuzmina talks about true style and music

BUYERS SPECIAL30. WORD WITH A BUYEREkaterina Pavlova, leading buyer for Mania Grandiosa , Mania Grandiosa

32. INTERVIEWSuccess story of Irina Gudkova

34. EVENTNew names from Romes fashion week: Who is on next? Who is on next?

JEWELLERY 40. TRENDCollections inspired by seas, oceans and distant shores, ,

42.WATCHESThe timepiece that revolutionised the world of watches,

DESIGN44. INTERVIEWThe modern vision of Piuarch architectural studio Piuarch

52. FURNITURENatural materials and juxtaposed styles

58. ITINERARYDiscovering Brera

MODEL: / Arina KuzminaPHOTO: / Vlad LoktevSTYLE: / Aleksandra BelousMAKE UP: / Nadia LukinovaHAIRSTYLE: / Arkadiy BulgatovOUTFIT: Dress Natasha Zinco, shoes Aperlai, headband Maison Michel.

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AUTUMN 2015

BEAUTY62. SPATreatments for two

64. EXPRESS Top spots for a little rest and relaxation in Milan ,

TRAVEL 66. CALENDARUnmissable autumn events ,

68. DESTINATIONRome unique and unforgettable

70. YACHTFive yachting races you should see with your own eyes ,

FOOD80. CALENDARBest food festivals around Italy

82. ITINERARYCuisine of the Piedmont region

84. TRENDGreen menus.

88. NIGHTLIFENew hotspots in Milan.

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8PUBLISHING HOUSE ALATE MEDIA

DIRETTORE RESPONSABILEMichela Zio

[email protected]

EDITOR IN CHIEF Marina Bugranova

[email protected]

ART DIRECTOR Lior Susana

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EXECUTIVE EDITORGalia Milovzorova

[email protected]

EDITOR-AT-LARGEMaria Elena Capitanio

Marcella Gabbiano

FASHION EDITORAnastasia Khvatova

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Dasha Elagina

CONTRIBUTORS Ekaterina Kolosova, Daria SivridMila Anufrieva, Tatyana Yablonko

COPY EDITOR Jen Rouse

TRANSLATORSMaria Nikolaeva, Maria Slautina

ASSISTANT TO THE EDITOR IN CHIEFMaria Sakharchuk

PRINT Radin print d.o.o. Gospodarska 9, hr 10431 Sveta Nedelja

PUBLISHING HOUSE Alate Media s.r.l. p. iva 08307120967, tel. (+39) [email protected]

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Fashion&Beauty trademark is owned by MMG publishing house. Fashion&Beauty Milan is used under agreement from the trademark owners.

With the official endorsement of Camera di Comercio Fondazione Italia Russia

GENERAL DIRECTOR Alexander Schepanovskiy [email protected]

PUBLISHER Natalia Chavkina [email protected]

NETWORK CONTENT EDITOR Nadezhda Nazaryan [email protected]

EDITOR'S LETTER


My heart sees, my hands create and my head knows marketing. To become a successful designer nowadays, you need to have more than just talent. Luckily, Italy always offers more and more opportunities for creative expression. Especially for this issue, our new editorial director and journalist Michela Zio chatted with Silvia Venturini Fendi, who supports young talent thanks to the initiative of the Alta Roma Fashion Week. Russian philanthropist Elena Baturina talked to us about the important work her organisation Be Open undertakes to help young specialists in the field of design.

A whole section in our new issue is dedicated to the remaining link in the designer-to-customer chain the buyer. Read interviews with fashion experts and reviews of important industry events for buyers, who choose Italy for the high quality of its products and design. And of course, youll find exciting travel itineraries and useful advice for the happiness of body and soul in this magical autumn season

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- . - , Alta Roma. , , Be Open, , .

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MARINA BUGRANOVA Editor in chief

WE CONNECT MASTERS WHO MAKE GREAT PRODUCTS, THOSE WHO HAVE BEEN ABLE TO MAINTAIN ARTISANAL QUALITY, REFINED TASTE AND TIMELESS VALUE, WITH PEOPLE WHO SEEK EXCEPTIONAL DESIGN AND UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCES. INVESTING IN EMOTIONS AND MEMORABLE TRAVELS IS AN ART AND WE ARE HONOURED TO BRING IT TO YOU, IN THE ITALIAN WAY.

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FASHION&BEAUTY, THE VISION BENEATH THE COVER

TALENT TIME

M.Bugranova

+7 985 760 75 79

M.Bugranova

INTERVIEW: Michela Zio, PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

FASHION / EXPERT


For the 27th time a fashion week dedicated to young designers has been held in the Italian capital. The director of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone, and the editor in chief of Italian Vogue, Franca Sozzani, recently joined the ranks of the administrative council of AltaRoma, led by President Silvia Venturini Fendi. The Italian government recognises AltaRomas dedication to promoting young talents, and so offered financial support through ITA (the Italian Trade Agency)

for AltaRoma to hold the contest Who is on next? especially for beginning designers. Michela Zio spoke to Silvia Venturini Fendi about the project

SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI PLACES HER BET ON THE YOUTH

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FASHION / EXPERT

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How important is this kind of support do you think? Given the international scale of fashion it is a very difficult sector with enormous competition. Thats

why governmental support and good coordination between different organisations are both very important components of success.

And what about a close cooperation between those who promote the Made in Italy brands?On the one hand there is Milan and its Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana, on the other, Florence and Pitti Immagine, and then there is also Rome where AltaRoma is held. We have clear divisions between our fields of activities, but at the same time we collaborate on many fronts. And this strategy, together with external financial support, should help our projects become successful and strengthen the position of the Made in Italy brands.

The last AltaRoma Fashion Week wasn't without innovations. Were you pleased with the results? Rome became the centre of the world of fashion for four days in July, regaining its well-deserved reputation as a creative, cultural and innovative world city. Organising AltaRoma took a lot of effort, given the limited time and tools at our disposal. The income from the internal annual membership fees decreased by 60%, and we had to reduce our internal spending by 20% as a result. But we managed to increase other investments by 50%. This time AltaRoma consisted of three sections: Fashion Hub, Atelier and In Town.

The main emphasis is put on the section Fashion Hub, dedicated to young designers, right? Yes, we would like this to become the key area of our activity. And when you read reports that many of the designers who started their career with AltaRoma managed to triple their profits, open new sales points and become style directors of major international brands in just a few years, it means only one thing: that the money received from the government and private organisations wasnt spent in vain.

What are your plans for the nearest future? AltaRoma has recently been establishing a new development strategy, which the administrative council of the Fashion Week will present to our partners in October.

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, - Made in Italy? , , , - Pitti Immagine, , Altaroma. , -. , , - , Made in Italy.

Altaroma . -? 4 , - , - . Altaroma, , , . 60%, 20% . 50% -. Altaroma : Fashion Hub, Atelier In Town.

Fashion Hub, ? , , - . , , Altaroma, ,

SILVIA VENTURINI FENDI

President of the Roman AltaRoma Fashion Week and creative director of Fendi accessories. Silvia Venturini Fendi was the designer behind the 1997 cult Baguette bag.

27 , . ALTAROMA .

ITA (ITALIAN TRADE AGENCY)

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? Altaroma , - .

Maria Sole Cecchi, Matteo Lamandini, Franca Sozzani, Carlo Volpi, Silvia Venturini Fendi, Martine Rose and Fernando Jorge

Silvia Venturini Fendi, Carlo Capasa and Marta Leonori

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STYLING TIPS

1 Dont be afraid to go monochrome. This season designers are mad for one-colour looks. total-look. - , .

2 Black boots are perfect with a blue or pink coat. Keep your brown footwear for another time. . .


FASHION / TREND

Smooth fabric, lush fur and concise silhouettes perfect in their simplicity pastel colours in the winter collections bypass unnecessary fuss and details. Leading this trend in style is Miuccia Prada. The designer admitted that she was interested to see if you can get the wow-effect using pastel shades. The answer? A definite yes. Contrary to what prevailed in the 70s, Twiggy-style echoes of the 60s took centre stage on the Prada catwalk, but with a soft, girlish twist. Yet another Italian house with a sweet tooth is Max Mara. Their collection of cosy coats, pencil skirts and aqua coloured jersey sweaters created an image that was fresh and feminine, with a slight touch of retro. Coats with unconventional shades can also be found in the collections of Dolce and Gabbana and Altuzarra. Pastels are everywhere!

, - , - . , -, . , , wow-, . , . 70-, Prada - 60-, , , -. , - Max Mara. , - , - , . Dolce&Gabbana Altuzarra. !

Traditionally a time of caramel colours this season candy-pink, blue and yellow make a healthy alternative to gloomy fall colours

THE PASTEL SCENE

SHOES, PHILOSOPHY

philosophyofficial.com

BAG, MAX MARAworld.maxmara.com

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SHOES, BARBARA BUI

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WATCH, SWAROVSKI, swarovski.com

BAG, GIVENCHY givenchy.com

GLOVES, DSQUARED2dsquared2.com

EARRINGS, CHRISTIAN DIOR

dior.com

RING,CHRISTIAN

DIORdior.com

STYLING TIPS

1A patchwork outfit itself is quite a strong fashion statement. So keep accessories, hair and makeup neutral. You will still be noticed! . , , . !

2A patchwork poncho is a great alternative to a coat. Combine with blue jeans to create that perfect 70s style. , , - . , 70-.TE

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THE PASTEL SCENE

If the words quilting or patchwork remind you of your grandmother's wardrobe or hippies, keep your eye on the catwalk this season. Designers Burberry Prorsum, Etro, Chlo and Marni skilfully combine not only different colours and fabric prints, but also a variety of textures. While bringing us back to the 70s, the designers give traditional needlework a modern feel thanks to the use of new materials and technologies. From velvet dresses to coats and fur capes, patchwork fashion never looked so stylish and attractive. And the quilting craze is not only affecting clothes, but also accessories, which also mix and match incongruous materials. So if youre not ready to dress up in colourful outfits from head to toe, choose a multicoloured handbag and boots attention guaranteed!

Simonetta Ravizza gives a new look to the fur vest. In the spirit of recent developments, the brand has used patchwork techniques to combine the most fashionable animal prints and colours of the season.

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, . Burberry Prorsum, Etro, Chlo Marni , . 70-, - . - . , , , , . , , !

Simonetta Ravizza. - .

Patchwork dresses continue their victorious procession on catwalks as the Seventies style hype rages

FREE CREATIVITY

NECKLACE, LANVINlanvin.com

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BAG, CHLOchloe.com

GLASSES, ETROetro.com

SHOES, ROBERTO CAVALLIrobertocavalli.com

WAISTCOAT SIMONETTA RAVIZZA

simonettaravizza.it

FASHION / MAN TREND


BEST KNITWEAR OF THE SEASON:

CHANELMen's knitted deuces in retro style from Karl Lagerfeld's light hand go perfectly with men's jewellery. - -.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN Flowers can be masculine! Prove it with this large embroidered flower bud on an olive green military style sweater. -! .

LANVINLayering one of the leading trends of the season. Lanvin offer a masterclass in combining knitted items. . - Lanvin.

GIORGIO ARMANI Mohair sweaters and knitted shirtfronts. Classic Italian style means you look stylish in any weather without sacrificing comfort or warmth. -. - - .

SIts all about soft materials for the leading designers of men's clothing, who envision this seasons man sauntering through the

streets of the city in tactile, close-fitted garments. And if your work dress code permits, thick and cosy knitted cardigans teamed with starched shirts make a great alternative to stiff formal jackets. The main news from the catwalks of Milan and Paris is the elongated silhouette. Stretched-out sweaters, looking like theyve come straight out of the washing machine, can be found in the collections of Ermenegildo Zegna Couture and Roberto Cavalli. Sleeves are close fitting, and either casually rolled up to the elbow or worn long so that they cover the hands. Christopher Bailey of Burberry Prorsum advises men to pay attention to a single piece of clothing such as a knitted cape in line with the style of the 70s, it should have a long fringe and a soft earthy colour. It should be worn with simple informal attire. By contrast, Brioni stuck with a classic business look a chunky knit beige cardigan combined with a bright white shirt and classic trousers.

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, , -, - , . - . - Ermenegildo Zegna Couture Roberto Cavalli. , , . Burberry Prorsum - , - 70- . -. Brioni - - .

For the modern man the comfort, functionality and practicality of everyday clothes often matters more than it does for women. So its no wonder that the new seasons collections for men feature so many comfortable knitted and crocheted items

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{ Must-have accessories }

{ The perfect look }NAIL THE LATEST TREND

1 A perfect combination of fur knit accessories. Key items: the fur backpack and the fluffy scarf. . .

2 Cable knits and diamonds a tribute to retro style 70s hobbies. These sweaters are a perfect combination with everyday clothes. - 70-. .

3Thin scarves and ties perfectly complement your business image with a knitted jumper and a white shirt. - - .

4This season, dont shy away from monochrome. Pulling together a one-colour look is on trend if you play with different textiles. . Total-look , .

KNITTED

SWEATER, BERLUTIberluti.com

SWEATER, BERLUTIberluti.com

BACKPACK, MARNI marni.com GLOVES,

ERMENEGILDO ZEGNAzegna.com

BOOTS, TOD'Stods.com

BOOTS, CORNELIANIcorneliani.com

NOTEBOOK, TOD'Stods.com

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FASHION / TREND

This seasons fashion sends us on a journey back into the mists of time. The destination? The 19th century,

with its fascination for black corsets, boudoir style, high collars, cuffs with frills and complex pieces of lace. The trend? Reflective, pale and delicate. Flowing dresses in translucent black from Valentino and Chlo are perfect for an innocent heroine straight from the pages of a Romantic novel. And heres our tragic hero in ruffled cuffs and velvet breeches, like in the Giles fashion shows.

The seasons gothic dress includes nightgown and doll clothing, fetish costumes and mens shirts, blurring the distinction between

male and female, leaving only the dark sensuality and romanticism of characters such as Byron and Shelley. Mens shirts are feminine, with high collars and cuffs, and frills combined with long jackets rule, like those at Emilio Pucci and Roberto Cavalli. The mark of new Gothic Romanticism is not only black, but also an elongated silhouette dripping with lace, silk and ceremonial velvet.

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TRENDSETTING DESIGNERS:

GIVENCHYVictorian modesty, Catholic symbolism, dark Gothic gloom a symbiosis worthy of one of the finest collections in the history of Ricardo Tisci for Givenchy. , , , - Givenchy.

ALEXANDER WANGThe first collection of all-black items from the designer. Leather, silk, velvet dresses are a little gothic, a little heavy metal, and a little Japanese schoolgirl. , - . , , , -, .

ALEXANDER MCQUEENSarah Berton was inspired by the beauty of fading colour, so her entire collection is a poignant and melancholy ode to sadness intensified by the Victorian style. - , - , - .

CHLOEPerhaps the best union of bohemian chic and gothic glamour. Chiffon dresses emanate tragedy and drama, but also joy its all about style. , . , .

Romantic gothic, Victorian mores and Byronic heroes fall marks the transition from solar bohemian to the dark side

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THE DARK SIDE

NECKLACE ERICKSON BEAMON

ericksonbeamon.com

BRACELET LANVINlanvin.com


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EMILIO

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FASHION / TREND

{ Must-have accessories } STYLING TIPS

1 Try light chiffon dresses in black or white for a mans vest. They can be long or classically short. . , .

2 Choose silver jewellery. Traditionally, gold is not held in high regard since it represents the sun, and romantic heroes prefer the shimmering silver light of the moon. . ,

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3Pick from a classic selection of shoes including black leather boots or ankle boots, but another option is the rough mens shoes from the catwalk of Alexander Wang. -. , Alexander Wang.

4The main focus of gothic romanticism is an elongated silhouette. The sleeves of blouses and dresses should cover the hands and skirts should go to the floor. Yet another stylistic detail might be thin scarves and neckties. . , . -.

SHOES, ALBERTA FERRETTI

albertaferretti.com

EARRINGS, GIVENCHY givenchy.com

RING,CHRISTIAN DIOR

dior.com

SHOES, ELIE SAABeliesaab.com

BAG,ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

alexandermcqueen.com

THE DARK SIDE

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Valentino Chlo - - . , Giles.

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EARRINGS, CHRISTIAN DIOR

dior.com

NECKLACE LANVINlanvin.com

SHOES, PHILOSOPHY DI LORENZO SERAFINIphilosophyofficial.com

SHOES, BARBARA BUIbarbarabui.com

SHAWL, GIVENCHY givenchy.com

GLOVES, ERMANNO SCERVINO

ermannoscervino.it


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NECKLACE LANVINlanvin.com

CLUTCH ANYA HINDMARCH

anyahindmarch.com

DOlC

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ANA


A PARTICULARLY IMPORTANT DETAIL In order to wear the shoes, handbags and other accessories the new season has to bring, youll need plenty of courage and bravery, since they are as uncompromisingly defiant as they are brilliant

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WORD OF THE DAYNot for the meek and mild slogans, declarations of love and names appear on accessories this season so you can wear your heart on your sleeve. Think that you should always tell the truth? Your bag will tell others about it! Think your beauty will save the world? A necklace will carry this message to your loved ones.

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MUST-HAVE ACCESSORIES OF THE SEASON:

FOR THE HANDS: Long leather gloves, like those on display at Prada or Oscar de la Renta, will be an excellent addition to your everyday and evening image. , Prada Oscar de la Renta, .

AGENT 2015: The new It Bag from Diane von Furstenberg is named Secret Agent. Supermodel Karlie Kloss models it in a short video, so the position of this new accessory in the fashion community is already established. it-bag Diane von Furstenberg Secret Agent. , .

ARTFUL WEAVING: For the new collection of Cline Phoebe Philo a new shoe made an appearance. As if woven from twigs, the shoes are like a basket decorated with rhinestones. Cline , -, , .

FASHION / ACCESSORIES

SHOES, ALBERTA FERRETTI

albertaferretti.com

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SHOES, ERMANNO SCERVINOermannoscervino.it

SHOES, MARC JACOBS

marcjacobs.com

BAG, ORSORAMAorsorama.com

bag, GIveNchy www.givenchy.com

SCARF, DIANE VON

FURSTENBERGdvf.com

BAG, DIANE VON FURSTENBERGdvf.com

BAG, MARC JACOBSmarcjacobs.com


HIGH RATIOS Jackboots conquered the catwalks. Unlike their predecessors, they have become even higher so that you cannot see the edge beneath a skirt, and sometimes they could even be confused with leather pants or tights. But there is plenty of variety among designers. High boots with heels and flat shoes, plain with accessories choose a favourite in line with your own taste.

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PREDATOR IN THE CITY Attention! The streets are flooded with crocodile leather accessories (and excellent imitations). Handbags, wallets, shoes, boots and even ravenous scarves - the collection is packed with items that will make you top predator in the big city. But be careful: danger lurks at every turn. Other women are on the alert and will want to snatch your prize right out from under your nose.

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FASHION / INTERVIEW


BRAND REVOLUTION French luxury brand Didier Parakian, established in 1989 and well-known for its original style and exceptional quality, is undergoing a revolution. One of the major changes has been the appointment of the Italian designer Sergio Ciucci as creative director

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Sergio, have you fitted in easily in the Didier Parakian team?The brand has a very specific character, one of the main features of which is the connection with Southern Europe,

the Mediterranean. Didier is Armenian by origin and lives in Marseille, so its not surprising that his style is closely interwoven with the traditions of both cultures. He chose me precisely because I have already worked in Paris, at John Galliano and Plein Sud, and my style has two influences, French and especially Parisian chic, and bright, warm Mediterranean colours. These influences blended well with the warm, multicoloured, exotic spirit of the brand, and yet also helped to make it more international. This was my goal for the first collection, AW 2015-16.

What is the key concept behind the new collection? Briefly put, it is a winter garden at dusk. We tried to imagine a beautiful garden with plenty of exotic plants at sunset, in the falling dusk. All the colours are still there, they can be seen and felt, but seem

to be more sober, softer, less sharp. You can glimpse some yellow, blue, violet, but through a veil of the coming darkness.

What challenges did you encounter during the creation of the collection?The main difficulty was offering a completely new interpretation of a brand that has already been in existence for 25 years and to make it modern, and to transform the means of expression, for example the prints and colours, into something that even the most fashionable women could wear.

In other word, your main task was to rejuvenate the brand?Yes, but to keep this in line with its heritage. Prior to my appointment the brands target audience was an older generation. Now we appeal to younger women, around 30 or 40, maybe even 45 or 50, but lively, open and sensual. Our collective image is a brunette with exotic features, but she can be a blonde as well, never vulgar, but always living a real life. Our appeal is sensuality, colours, the Mediterranean way of life.

Didier Parakian Fall/Winter 2015-2016


FASHION / INTERVIEW


I rejuvenated the style, got rid of everything that made us look like any other brand, and got back to the true essence of the Didier Parakian spirit. We are, of course, just at the beginning: it may take years, five, ten, lets see!

Will the marketing strategies also change?Of course, this is inevitable. They have been changing already! One of our plans is to start showing collections on the catwalk. During Paris Fashion Week in the coming September we will make a small but exquisite presentation, and in future we will show a full collection on the catwalk.

Will it be held in Paris, as usual?This is not that straightforward. The French market is definitely important to us, but we havent decided yet where exactly we will put on our fashion shows. Not in New York for sure. It doesn't mean though that our brand doesn't suite the local market, on the contrary, it has been selling very well in the States. But neither New York nor London has the Mediterranean spirit that we embody.

And what is the theme for the future summer 2016 collection? It will be a journey into the world of the exotic, or better put, into a world that Europeans perceive as exotic. All of this is mixed up with a huge dose of energy and is seasoned with triumphant bright colours!

, Didier Parakian? , -, , , , , . , 9 , John Galliano, Plein Sud, , , . -, , , . - 2015-16.

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SERGIO CIUCCI

The designer, a native of Rome. Began his career with Alberta Ferretti, then worked with Roberto Cavalli, Iceberg, John Galliano and Plein Sud brands. Sergio is also a permanent panellist on various fashion TV shows and a professor of the IED institute.

DIDIER PARAKIAN, 1989

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Ester Abner Fendi

Natali Arefieva

Aleksandra Belous


FASHION / STORY

Arina Kuzmina, a leading World Fashion channel presenter and a model, just turned 16.Fashion&Beauty spoke with the rising star about style, her passion for music and her dreams of appearing on the big screen

YOUNG AND TALENTED

Instagram: instagram.com/arinakuzmina

Facebook: facebook.com/a.kuzmina.official


Arina, how early did fashion enter your radar and how did your sense of style develop?

It seems to me that fashion has always been a part of my life, even when I didnt realize it. Looking at my childhood photos, I see that even then I was a fashionista! My favourite form of entertainment was waiting for my mother to leave so I could try all of her shoes. For many of them it was the last time they saw the light

Do you think that taste is an innate quality or can it be developed?

In my opinion, taste is a product of upbringing. From childhood, our parents instilled in us good manners: how to use cutlery, how not to answer an insult with an insult, etc. The development of taste is the same. For me, my mother (Marina Kuzmina Ed.) was and still is an example of style. But, of course, good magazines and good films are also an endless source of information.

Today youre leading the fashion channel and you can see the fashion industry from the inside

Yes, and in my programmes I'm not interested in fashion as such. Unfortunately, fashion is now a conveyor belt the Fall-Winter collection turns into the Spring-Summer collection, and then it starts all over again. A bit more interesting, in my view, is how the passion for clothes and looking good has turned into an industry. Most people spend their hard-earned cash on fashion, and others make a lot of money on this. Its interesting to consider how this business works. And, of course, no less exciting is meeting creative people for whom fashion is an art and the defining passion of their lives.

In the fall youll be a debutante at the Tatler magazine ball. How are you preparing for this event?

Last year I was at the Tatler ball as a World Fashion correspondent. Everything seemed

, WORLD FASHION , 16 . FASHION&BEAUTY

,

so easy, but only at first glance! There are a lot of rehearsals and fittings. I was delighted and grateful that the Dior fashion house chose me. Ive been their fan since childhood and Ive been photographed a lot with their clothing, accessories and decor. I even chose a dress from Dior for the last ball. Little did I know that it was just a dress rehearsal!

How do you manage not to get lost among all of the numerous It Girls?

It seems to me that there arent that many It Girls. If you can be yourself and distinguish yourself then your fans wont lose track of you.

We know that you still have a passion for music and not long ago you were in a duet with Egor Kreed. What are your thoughts about this?

I love to sing, but Ill never do it professionally. The duet with Egor was thanks to my mums old friend, Andrey Shirman (also known as DJ Smash). I was lucky that this duet was with such a patient and talented person as Egor. Even though the experience was quite interesting, I probably wont do anymore singing. But Id like to be in a good film with a good director.

How do you manage to combine your studies, shoots for TV, videos and fashion magazines? Whats your secret?

I like to live within a clear structure: day, week, year. When everything is scheduled and you need to be everywhere at once, you cant stay still and do nothing. I even try to do something when on holiday. The main secret is that I get satisfaction from such a pace of life!

Do you still have time for sport?

Ive played tennis since I was 6. I played it

professionally, but then I realised that sport isnt for me, and so today its more of a hobby. Today I have a sort of sport schedule: five times a week is fitness hour and morning training. Ive been doing yoga for seven years. On holiday I like to try new types of sport: waterskiing, Thai boxing, skydiving, etc.

Who is your constant source of inspiration?

My mother is my role model in everything! Im very grateful to her. They say we dont choose our parents, but Im incredibly happy shes mine!

FASHION / STORY

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IN T H E H O S P I T A B L E R E G I O N O F E M I L I A R O M A G N A , G I O V A N N A G A U D E N Z I I S A W E L L - K N O W N P E R S O N A L I T Y . I T W A S S H E W H O B R O U G H T H A U T E C O U T U R E T O T H I S P I C T U R E S Q U E R E G I O N B A C K I N 1 9 7 5 , W H E R E S A N D Y

B E A C H E S S T R E W E D W I T H C O L O U R F U L P A R A S O L S S T R E T C H F O R M A N Y K I L O M E T R E S

She opened her first shop in the small resort town of Cattolica. Then, in 1983, she opened a second store with the prestigious address of Viale Ceccarini in Riccione. In 2007 the last store began growing dramatically, and in 2014 Giovanna officially presented to the public a renovated multi-brand mens clothing boutique with her daughter Francesca Meletti. Your were and remain an authority in the world of shopping for the residents of Emilia Romagna. How has your work changed over the last 40 years? When I began my business everything was much easier. There were not many brands and they were all well-known: Armani, Genny, Cacharel, Enrico Coveri, Montana and Byblos. Then the market started to change and little by little, new fashion brands appeared, so we started to spend most of our working time searching for and purchasing the most promising and interesting items.

What does this search look like today? It is like playing the stock market! It is no longer enough to just

understand brands and believe in their collections. One needs to constantly look for new names that meet the latest trends, and to make very large investments.

Which qualities should a brand possess in order to be available in Gaudenzi boutiques?First, it needs to be reliable, so that we can build a long-term partnership. Unfortunately, many young brands cant provide such guarantees, since nobody else invests in them. It is very sad.

Which designers can be considered as winners today? Predominantly the French ones, of course.

And Italian?We have very developed handicrafts. For example, we make the most beautiful fabrics in the world. But we don't know how to take our work in the right direction. French fashion still represents a dream, because French designers manage to turn their collections into objects of desire.

I N T E R V I E W : M I C H E L A Z I O


And what do you think about Russian fashion?I don't know much about it, just what Ive seen in fashion magazines. But I do know my Russian-speaking clients very well. They are always very attentive to detail, and they are as passionate about fashion as we used to be in the 80s. Russians also have excellent taste, so I think that there will be big names in fashion there sooner or later.

Which clothing item is the most often sold in your boutiques? It doesn't exist! Fashion gives us opportunities to express ourselves as much as we want. Today it's a black dress, and tomorrow torn jeans, but it is still you who wears both of them!

And which bag is the must have?Valentino.

The new brand that you like the most? MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti.

Your advice to Russian buyers looking for new interesting names?Have a close look in the Parisian neighbourhood Le Marais.

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G I O V A N N A G A U D E N Z I


S H O E M A N I AT H E F I R S T M A N I A G R A N D I O S A B O U T I Q U E O P E N E D I N S T . P E T E R S B U R G I N 2 0 0 3 , A N D I T Q U I C K L Y G A I N E D

P O P U L A R I T Y

In 2007, the company consolidated its position in the market by opening a second showroom in Grand Palace the most prestigious high fashion gallery of the northern capital. Today, Mania Grandiosa is a real shoe empire, which includes mono- and multi-brand boutiques as well as a fashion outlet. We talked to the leading company buyer Ekaterina Pavlova.

How has the range of the brands you sell changed in the 10 years or more youve been trading? Fashion doesn't stand still, and we also keep up with the times. Recently, we have begun offering popular American brands such as Michael Kors. The list of our labels is constantly growing, but the principles of our work have not changed. As always, we are faithful to the authentic Italian style.

Which professional exhibitions do you try not to miss?MICAM is the main platform for us. Showrooms for the best shoe brands from around the world are clustered in Milan. The fashion calendar is full of events here. For example, WGSN consultations for professionals working in the field of fashion and design take place here. We also attend the Pitti Uomo exhibition in Florence, the Premiere Classe exhibition in Paris and the Premium exhibition in Berlin. What are the principles you use to pick new brands for your boutiques? What role does customer feedback play in this process? Certainly, customer opinion is very important to us. We always take this into account when ordering the new collection. Every day, we process an enormous amount of information: we visit exhibitions

B U Y E R S S P E C I A L B U Y E R S S P E C I A L

and world fashion capitals, view news on social networks and popular fashion sites. In particular, we find new brands in this information flow. When it comes to something new entering the market, first of all, we focus on the trends that are currently in the air as well as on our professional experience. Which country offers the most promising designers for Mania Grandiosa? Brand sales results and positive feedback from our customers are the main indicator of commercial success in the market. We are actively cooperating with French and American brands. But well-known Italian brands such as Sergio Rossi, Casadei, Santoni, Versace, Baldinini, Le Silla etc. remain our main partners. How effective is the Mania Grandiosa online store today? Is there a fundamental difference between the customers who buy online and those who buy in the boutique?Online shopping in Russia is still a developing trend. At this moment, there are a few major players in this market. According to statistics, most of those who make purchases at online stores are young people. Not all of them are ready to purchase luxury and premium goods. But we are actively working on promoting our online boutique; we are trying to make it even more convenient for customers. We are also developing a package of exclusive services, which is already available at our offline stores.

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E K A T E R I N AP A V L O V AL E A D I N G B U Y E R O F M A N I A G R A N D I O S A B O U T I Q U E S


F R O M I T A L Y W I T H L O V EFA S H I O N & B E A U T Y S P O K E W I T H I R I N A G U D K O V A , F O U N D E R A N D P R E S I D E N T O F T H E I T A L I A N C O M P A N Y I F D , O N E O F T H E K E Y D I S T R I B U T O R S O F F A S H I O N B R A N D S I N C L U D I N G L A N V I N , M O S C H I N O , M A R N I , P H I L I P P P L E I N E T C . I N T H E F O R M E R S O V I E T U N I O N

Where did your love for Italy begin and why did you choose to live in this country in particular?I arrived in Italy in 1988 following the man I loved, whom I met in Moscow. He was from Sicily, he was very handsome, cheerful and temperamental. I knew his homeland only from the TV series The Octopus. In those days, I associated Sicily with the mafia and, at the same time, with the dolce vita concept. We were still students, and we listened to romantic Italian songs in which the singers conveyed such love.

Since moving, have your ideas changed?In reality, there turned out to be a lot of contrasts in Italy, but its impossible not to fall in love with it. A brilliant, friendly country, filled with talented and passionate people. Over the years I have put down roots in this land, and I consider it my second home.

Today IFD is one of the leaders of the Russian fashion market. What led to this success?You can be successful in many ways. Its important to love what you do and to believe that youll succeed. A big breakthrough for me was working with my own husband (Sergio Pea, CEO of "gruppo Alma spa" since 1985, in IFD since 2001. In Alma spa Sergio used to collaborate with such brands as Gianni Versace, Karl Lagerfeld, Thierry Mugler, etc. Ed.). He had a rich managerial experience within Italian companies, while I perfectly knew the Russian mentality and the Russian market. But genuine success came when we changed

Irina Gudkova, Anna Dello Russo and Giovanna Battaglia during Milan Fashion Week

our company's strategy. We avoided being just a buying office and started working as an agent and partner of many brands with exclusive contracts for distribution. Today our office is equipped with the latest technology. But most important are the people whove worked with us for almost 15 years who are an integral part of our success.

Do you often visit Russia? In which countries do you enjoy working most? Since our main business is fashion, its vital that we maintain physical presence in Milan and Paris. If were talking about jewellery, or about creativity in particular: looking for stones, creating design, then I choose Brazil! I really love this country in spite of its many contrasts.I also often come to Russia.

Tell us about your iG Jewels brand. For you, is this more of a business project, or means of creative self-expression?Everything started out simply as a hobby. Every time I travelled I looked for interesting precious and semi-precious stones, and then I ordered gem cutting at my Neapolitan jewelers. I became so fascinated by this knowledge that I started attending design and gemmology courses. Soon my friends and associates started asking me to come up with design jewelry for them. My jewelers, Gino and Fulvio Mello, offered me a business partnership to me, and thus iG Jewels brand was born. Today its hard to call my activity a business project. Its still really a hobby, but I dont discount the possibility that it could grow into something more.

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The Who Is On Next? project for young designers, created by AltaRoma together with Italian Vogue, is a major talent contest in Italy. It was established for beginning designers to present collections of mens and womens clothing and accessories. The 11 previous editions of the project have given to the fashion world names such as Aquilano Rimondi, Nicholas Kirkwood,

Marco de Vincenzo, Albino, Angelos Bratis, Paula Cademartori, Stella Jean, Gabriele Colangelo, Giancarlo Petriglia, Arthur Arbesser, Piccione.Piccione, Daizy Shely and Benedetta Bruzziches. The 2015 contest finalists are L72 in the category of Ready to Wear, and Giannico in the category of Accessories.

L72 is a brand created in 2015 by Lee Wood, a British designer who has been living in Milan for 16 years. He worked for Versace before founding his own brand. For his new

collection Collection Zero: Not Conditioned Lee used heavy industrial textiles.

Nicol Beretta, who presented his first collection for the Autumn-Winter season during the Paris and Milan fashion weeks, came up with the idea of creating Giannico, a new shoe brand. Since then the shoes of this brand have made appearances on red carpets all around the world.

Who Is On Next?, Altaroma Vogue, . - , -. 11 fashion , Aquilano Rimondi, Nicholas Kirkwood, Marco de

WHO I S O N N E X T ?

L 7 2 A N D G I A N N I C O W I N W H O

I S O N N E X T ? 2 0 1 5

Francesca Calistri, Elena

Bugranova and Simonetta

Gianfelici

Shoes Giannico

Bag Lolita Lorenzo

Pierpaolo Piccioli and

Carol Oyekunle

Vincenzo, Albino, Angelos Bratis, Paula Cademartori, Stella Jean, Gabriele Colangelo, Giancarlo Petriglia, Arthur Arbesser, Piccione.Piccione, Daizy Shely Benedetta Bruzziches. 2015 L72 Ready to wear Giannico - .

L72 , 2015 , , 16 . Versace , - . Collection Zero: Not Conditioned - .

Giannico - , - - 2013/14 . .


Pierpaolo Piccioli, Franca Sozzani and Miroslava Duma

President of Russian Buyers Union Elena Bugranova with designer of Giannico Nicol Beretta

The ceremony took place within the framework of Time-Contemporary Fashion Awards, a collaborative project of the White Trade Show and the Italian buyers Chamber, Lancia, and Farfetch. The prize itself is a trip to Rostov-on-Don where the designers will be provided with an opportunity to design an exclusive fashion show for the Ultrchic Spring/Summer 2016 Runway Collection.

The top Time Award 2015 was given to Bliss Lau New York based designer, entrepreneur and owner of the eponymous jewellery brand. Her Spring/Summer 2016 Collection will also be featured on the official website of global fashion community Farfetch.

The overwhelming majority of online votes were given to designer Maurizio Miri. His menswear brand was ranked number one out of ten nominees. Giancarlo Petriglia received an award from Lancia for his collection of handcrafted bags he will now work on a series of accessories for a new model of Ypsilon.

The jury for the Time Award 2015 was represented by President of the Italian Buyers Chamber and owner of Palermos DellOglio boutique Mario DellOglio; founder and honored

President of the Chamber Flaminio Soncini; Bruna Casella (Bernardelli, Mantova); Tiziano Cereda (Biffi, Milan); Elisabetta Giannini (Cose, Cremona); Beppe Nugnes (Nugnes 1920, Trani); Giordano Ollari (O, Parma); Roberta Valentini (Penelope Store, Brescia); Beppe Angiolni (Sugar, Arezzo) and Giampiero Molteni (Tessabit, Como).

Time-Contemporary Fashion Award. White - Lancia Farfetch. - Ultrchic ---, - 2016.

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U L T R A C H I C I S H E A D I N G F O R R U S S I AT WO Y O U N G D E S I G N E R S A N D F O U N D E R S O F T H E U L T R A C H I C L A B E L , V I O L A B A R A G I O L A A N D D I E G O D O S S O L A , H A V E R E C E I V E D A S P E C I A L A W A R D F R O M T H E R U S S I A N B U Y E R S U N I O N W H I C H W A S H A N D E D T O T H E M P E R S O N A L L Y B Y C E O E L E N A B U G R A N O V A

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Antonella Bruno, Cristina Tajani, Elena Bugranova and Chiara Croce

Elena Bugranova and Viola Baragiola


T A O AW A R D 2 0 1 5 E L E N A B U G R A N O V A W I N S 2 0 1 5 T A O A W A R D P R I Z E

Publisher of Fashion&Beauty in Italy and president of the Russian Buyers Union Elena Bugranova has won the prestigious 2015 Taomoda prize, awarded for achievements in the field of Italian fashion and cinema. The award ceremony was held on 18 July in the Sicilian town of Taormina.

A lot of famous faces gathered in the towns ancient theater, including Claudio Marenzi, the president of Sistema Moda Italia and the owner of the Herno brand, Andrea Tessitore from Italia Independent, Beppe Angiolini, the honorary president of the Italian Chamber of Buyers, and Antonella Bruno, the head of the Emea brand from the Lancia group.

The special Time Award 2015 prize was awarded to Luisa Beccaria, Stalla Jean, Fausto Puglisi and Ultrchic, a collection created by Viola Baragiola and Diego Dossola. Other prizes were awarded to representatives of the Italian film industry, for example, to Alberto Sironi, director of the TV-series Inspector Montalbano broadcasted by the channel Rai Uno. Over five thousand spectators were invited to the award ceremony.

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Brenda and Max Bizzi. Photo Armando Vinciguerra

Lancia. Photo Armando Vinciguerra

Elena Bugranova. Photo Turi Papale

Elena Bugranova. Photo Turi Papale

Ultrchic. Photo Armando Vinciguerra

JEWELLERY / INTERVIEW


SeeMe was founded in 2012 by Caterina Occhio, a former development aid manager with over 15 years experience. This social enterprise strives to improve the lives of women who have been victims

of violence. It employs women, usually single mothers, who have been shunned by society and found themselves jobless and unable to provide for their families once out of the womens shelter.

These women learn a craft and eventually earn a steady monthly salary through their training with SeeMe, empowering them and often later resulting in employment. This way, they can regain their independence, their pride and their dignity. SeeMe, while still being a young company, has achieved a lot, having helped many women from Tunisia and

Turkey to find a safe place and source of income. It has also engaged in the battle against violence with some world-renowned fashion brands such as Karl Lagerfeld, for whom SeeMe created a beautiful capsule collection, as well as Missoni and Tommy Hilfiger. British fashion critic Suzy Menkes is among the many famous admirers of SeeMes heart necklaces.

Premium retailers of SeeMe include Gallery Lafayette and the LuisaviaRoma boutiques in Florence among others.

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FROM THE BOTTOM OF MY HEARTSeeMe is a luxury brand producing heart-shaped jewellery. All of its pieces are handmade by women who have been victims of violence. By wearing the SeeMe heart, SeeMe clients join the #heartmovement,

a worldwide movement that aims at replacing violence with love

JEWELLERY / INTERVIEW

CAMPAIGN 2015

Hilfiger. SeeMe .

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Haarlemmerstraat 72, amsterdamtel. +31.6.543.86.816www.seeme.org

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JEWELLERY / TREND


BLUE CAVEThe noble shine of pale blue stones is as a reminder of the surf on the French Riviera

or the endless clear sky over Sri Lanka

PEAU DANE,VAN CLEEF & ARPELS,vancleefarpels.com HORSEBIT, GUCCI,

gucci.com

JELLY BEAN, STEPHEN WEBSTER, stephenwebster.com

ESSENZA, GIOVANNI FERRARIS, ferraris.it

, HELEN YARMAK, helenyarmak.com

HOPI, ANIMAUX DE COLLECTION, BOUCHERON,

boucheron.com

CHAUMET LUMIERES DEAU, CHAUMET, chaumet.com

BLUE BOOK, TIFFANY&CO.,

tiffany.it

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IN ALL ITS GLORYDrift away with the latest jewellery collections inspired by seas, oceans, distant shores

and boundless skies

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Unrivalled storytellers of the jewellery world, Van Cleef & Arpels, spin a yarn of six seas the Black, Caspian, Mediterranean, Red, Arabian, and Adriatic as well as the Indian Ocean in their new oceanic collection. The artisans drew inspiration from

Rudyard Kiplings poems. The nautical theme is clear in the palette, dominated by jewels of deep blue and

aquamarine shades. , , -, , ,

- Van Cleef & Arpels. .

.

DIORVictoire de Castellane takes a break from the world of flora and fauna and returns to architecture. Soie Dior rifles through the

luxury brands archives to find inspiration for new creations. This time gold replicates silk ribbons a must-have detail on an haute-

couture dress created by the matre himself. , . Soie Dior, ,

- .

TIFFANY&COWhile the previous exclusive jewellery collection by Tiffany & Co.s Design Director Francesca Amfitheatrof was inspired by the sea, this time she looks up to the sky. Stars shining above New York skyscrapers set the mood of the new collection. The only coloured

stone it features is black onyx.

Tiffany&Co. - , . , - -.

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EARRINGS SOIE, DIOR, dior.com

COLLECTION SEVEN SEAS, VAN CLEEF & ARPELS, vancleefarpels.com

, ,

JEWELLERY / TREND

EARRINGSBLUE BOOK,

TIFFANY&CO., tiffany.com

ID BROGGIAN Diamonds branded by ID Broggian have been highly sought after for over half a century. This time the designers have chosen to concentrate on traditional shapes. The only features that havent

changed are the precious stones and high-carat gold. ID Broggian

. .

.

EARRINGS, ID BROGGIAN, broggian.com

CHAUMETUnderstated, laconic, and elegant in a truly French way. Exclusive jewellery pieces from the new Josephine Collection are a perfect

match for todays royalty. , - . - Josephine .

TIARA JOSEPHINE, CHAUMET, chaumet.com


JEWELLERY / WATCHES

INTERVIEW: Ksenia Nekrasova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices


Hublot has become the first Swiss luxury brand to use precious stones and metals together with rubber, an unusual idea in the jewellery world. How did you get

the idea to make this unexpected combination in a single piece? This was a brainwave from the founder of the brand, Carlo Crocco. Just a decade ago putting a rubber strap on a precious watch would look like

complete madness. But innovation involves risk. In the case of Hublot this risk happened to be one worth taking, since the use of quirky materials became a trend that still makes our brand stand out in the market of luxury watches.

The first Big Bang model, launched in 2005, made a deep impression on buyers. What is the secret of its success? I think these watches are very well thought through. Not only their original design, but also the unique concept behind them, which allowed us to approach the watch as if it were a construction kit. They can be made of a large variety of materials, from steel to ceramics the possibilities are endless.

Everyone knows that Hublot boasts surprising and original designs. But what about the technical side of the watches? We invent entirely new materials! For example, our unique kind of gold, Magic Gold, is a Hublot in-house development. This is the first and the only scratch-resistant18-carat gold alloy.

Hublot goes hand in hand with an active lifestyle. What kind of sport do you support the most? When we say Hublot, we mean football. By the way, our company was the first to bet on this sport

EXPLOSIVE NATURE This year the watch company Hublot is celebrating double digits with its first big anniversary. Its been ten years since the cult Big Bang timepiece revolutionised the world of watches. We asked David Camba, Hublot Regional Sales Manager in Eastern Europe, why this watch is still considered such a unique and innovative accessory

Top model Bar Rafaeli, the ambassador of the brand Hublot

JEWELLERY / WATCHES


BIG BANG POP ART,HUBLOT

BIG BANG BRODERIE STEEL DIAMONDS, HUBLOT

BIG BANG UNICO KING GOLD CERAMIC, HUBLOT

and to support well-known teams and large-scale events. Since then, luxury watches have becomes more closely associated with the world of football.

Which watch innovations did you present in Geneva this year? One of the most outstanding is probably the Big Bang Broderie model. Translated from French broderie means embroidery or lace. This isnt a metaphor: our new model features real lace woven into the materials, in the rubber strap and even in the carbon frame of the case. Embroidered pictures of skulls and roses are inspired by the motifs of a medieval coat of arms. , - . ? , . . . Hublot : - , Hublot .

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DESIGN / INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW: Daria Sivrid, PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

Designs from the Italian architectural studio Piuarch are always laco-nic in nature. Thanks to simple, carefully chosen shapes and materials, they blend harmoniously into any urban landscape. Examples of the design studio's work include the Quattro Corti Business Centre in St. Petersburg and several dozen Dolce & Gabbana boutiques across the world from New York to Athens. The Piuarch studio is located in the picturesque Brera District of Milan, in a former printing workshop. Fashion&Beauty talked with designers from the studio about modern architecture and its relationship with historic buildings

LISTENING TO THE CITY


DESIGN / INTERVIEW

You have completed many projects in Russia. What do you attribute to your success on this market? Over the past few years we implemented a number of important

projects there, including the Quattro Corti Business Centre in St. Petersburg. Russian clients are becoming more open to dialogue, and they express a preference for modern architecture. There is a growing interest in high-quality projects that fit harmoniously into the historical context of such cities as the northern capital. How did you come up with the idea of creating the Quattro Corti Business Centre and the Ginza Project Group's Mansarda restaurant, which is located on the grounds of the complex? How does this striking example of modern design sit with St. Petersburg's classical image? The business centre is located in the very heart of the city, close to St. Isaac's Cathedral. We constructed the building while taking into account the architectural features of the area. Only the building's facade faces the street, whereas the other three sides are surrounded by the walls of neighbouring buildings. Therefore, in carrying out the project we had to preserve the historic

facades of two adjacent buildings, thereby joining classical and modern elements into one whole through our choice of colour and design for inner courtyards and mirrored surfaces. That was our main idea.

Your idea was to find harmony between tradition and modern design. What inspired you while you were working in Russia?The main principle informing Piuarch's work is an analysis of context, including architectural, cultural, social, historical, and natural environments. We look at what surrounds us from the inside while paying close attention to the traditions and features of each place. It it is very important for us that our creations fit harmoniously into the overall context. Every time when we start a new project, we ask ourselves: how does the new building change the look of the city? In the case of the St. Petersburg Quattro Corti Business Centre, the local architecture itself led us to the use of gold, green, white and shades of blue, which are characteristic of the city's colour palette. And the facade of the complex, which reflects the surrounding world, is a tribute to the delightful mirrored windows of the Grand Peterhof Palace and the works of Kazimir Malevich.

You have also worked on creating boutiques for Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy and Les Hommes. What do you pay particular attention to when developing these projects?We have been collaborating with Dolce & Gabbana for over 10 years. In this period we have designed 40 boutiques and offices for the brand in Milan, the Metropol Theatre and an outlet in Incisa in Val d'Arno. We worked closely with the designers themselves at all stages of the work process. Dolce & Gabbana are quite different from our usual customers, as they are very informed participants in the process. They take a very sober look at things and understand how the architectural concept, selected parts and materials should emphasise the essence of their brand.

We worked with Givenchy on the same terms. We try to express the main message of these fashion houses. For a Givenchy boutique in Seoul, we used electrolytic polishing on steel panels to give an appearance that changes depending on the amount of light reflecting off them. This was a nod to the visual arts of the 1960s, and in particular to the creations of Lucio Fontana and Enrico Castellani.

Les Hommes boutique, Milan


PIUARCH . , , . - QUATTRO CORTI DOLCE&GABBANA -

Quattro Corti Business Centre in St. Petersburg.

DESIGN / INTERVIEW

We worked on the project for the first Milanese boutique Les Hommes together with brand designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosh. Our objective was to convey the style of the fashion house through geometric shapes and materials. Les Hommes is a very sophisticated brand distinguished by its high quality and attention to detail. Les Hommes skilfully combines fine fabrics with simpler ones. In order to properly interpret the essence of the brand in this case, it was necessary to give the design three dimensions and volume.

Milan is the birthplace of your studio. How do you conceive of this metropolis, and how it is reflected in your projects? Although we are four partners, our views of Milan vary greatly from each other. Each of us has his own experience, but there is one thing that we agree on: we appreciate the rich architectural history of the city. When we were working on a project for one of the buildings in the new quarter of Porta Nuova, we solved several problems at once. On the one hand, the building has a very modern design, but on the other

it blends harmoniously into the row of neighbouring buildings. Looking at this project, we can trace the influence of Gruppo T, Italian representatives of kinetic art, as well as the famous Venezuelan artist Carlos Cruz-Diez. Now we are working to create an architectural complex for the Kering Group in the Mecenate district. This facility will include offices, a studio showroom and a hotel. We have been tasked with reconstructing the building of the former Caproni factory. In literally just a few months we will also start working on another project, the reconstruction of a college in Milan, as a result of a competition we won in 2007. The present building was designed by Marco Zanuso back in the 1970s. We will retain its original height, the colour of the facade and the main architectural lines.

What sites would you recommend to tourists who want to delve into the authentic atmosphere of Milan? In terms of architecture to see, first of all you should visit the post-war buildings of Ponti, Gardella, BBPR, Figini e Pollini and Latis. As for more recent examples,

currently the new Bocconi university complex is being built according to a design by the Japanese studio Sanaa. There is also another noteworthy new building housing the Fondazione Giangiacomo Feltrinelli in the area of Porta Volta, designed by the Swiss architects Herzog & De Meuron.

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DESIGN / INTERVIEW

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Enel Pavilion for Expo 2015, Milan

Givenchy boutique, Seoul

DESIGN / INTERVIEW

INTERVIEW: Marina Bugranova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

Fashion&Beauty met up with Elena Baturina, international ambassador for Expo-2015 and one of the richest women in the world. She is the founder of the

philanthropic foundation Be Open that helps new talents to find their way in the world of design. Elena talked to us about the things that can impede a young designers path to

success, and explained how to put any idea into practice simply by using a piece of paper

OPENING UP NEW OPPORTUNITIES

The Garden of Wonders historical pavilion. Photo Adriano Brusaferri


DESIGN / INTERVIEW

Why did you decide to help young designers specifically?Actually we have always been engaged with charity,

but did it within various formats and in various areas. There wasnt a systematic approach, so at some point we decided that it was time to create a single platform. Design and architecture are both familiar concepts for us, since we have been involved in the construction business for a long time. Thats why the idea of supporting young designers fits into our plans very naturally. So we set up the foundation and invited talented people from all over the world along, so that we could get together and look at world problems through the lens of design. And you know, we are getting to know new people constantly! This definitely means that we are headed in the right direction.

What are the key factors for designers to find professional fulfillment?Most importantly, there should be an environment in which they can realise their potential. So

ELENA BATURINA

often its the established masters who get all the attention, so there needs to be a platform for young talents where they can show off their work. And our project is just such a platform.

How do you choose the country to take Be Open to next?This happens very spontaneously. The main thing is that the place location be in line with our ideas. This may be, for example, Japan or Norway. Next time, it will most likely be a northern state. We have not yet opened up this part of the globe, so it's time to focus on one of the Scandinavian countries. We have been forming a community of people that have the same goals and thoughts as we do. So we are happy to look for like-minded people anywhere on earth. Some people come to us, but we are trying get out there and meet new people capable of changing our world for the better ourselves.

Does your experience as a businesswoman help you in your charity work?My educational background is in management, and since I know how to direct people it is not that important which field I work in. Management is a life-long skill.

Which professional and personal qualities are the most important for your success?I am a very consistent person. In general, any task can be interpreted as a certain scheme of actions. And when you already have a clear image of this scheme in mind, it is quite easy to then move from the image to its realisation. If you do not yet have an exact plan in your head, try to get it down on paper. Always keep this piece of paper in front of you, and as you move toward the goal cross out item after item.

You participate in the project We-Women. Tell us about it in more detail.I was invited to participate in this project, organised by the Italian Ministry of External Affairs as part of the Milan Expo, as an ambassador, and I accepted. I think it is an excellent opportunity to talk about womens concerns in a loud voice. To be honest, I am not a supporter of womens emancipation, as I do not believe that women need any special treatment. Only the weak need special treatment, and women are not weak at all. But what is really important is to let women choose their own way of life. Whether they want to be housewives, businesswomen or public figures, society must support them. Why is that? Because any choice


Jaime Hayon KURIOPOTEK installation for Boissard. Photo Gionata Xerra

Jaime Hayon KURIOPOTEK installation for Boissard. Photo Gionata Xerra

DESIGN / INTERVIEW

made by a woman is important to the state. Usually, when a man plays a significant social role, a woman takes care of the family. But in this case she must be respected by society as much as a female entrepreneur. Society should not make her feel ashamed or uncomfortable because of her choice. All choices must be seen as equally valuable.

Have you ever encountered difficulties in business due to the fact that you are a woman?No. Maybe because I've always known that to achieve something I have to be head and shoulders above the men. We live in a man's world, and if we want to strengthen our position in it, it's the only way to be. But men do not necessarily need to know about it!

Finally, we cant help but take this opportunity to ask about your favourite places in Italy. Can you name some spots?The Mediterranean coast, in particular, Liguria.

It is so relaxing there and the scenery is fantastic. Portofino is just such a fabulous place. I also love Rome. Its one of my favourite world capitals.

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FASHION&BEAUTY EXPO-2015 . BE OPEN, . ,

The Garden of Wonders historical pavilion. Photo Adriano Brusaferri

DESIGN / INTERVIEW

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A Vision in a Box installation. Photo Gionata Xerra

Bestenheider Philippe Volute. Photo Gionata Xerra

MIST-O Voyage.Photo Gionata Xerra

Palomba Ludovia e Roberto Ray Moore. Photo Gionata Xerra

Vasilev Victor Srebro. Photo Gionata Xerra

Fernando & Humberto Campana VEREDAS bottle for Biette. Photo Gionata Xerra

DESIGN / FURNITURE


Brilliant surface solutions become an extension of the simple geometry of furniture, and sometimes even visually change the shape of furniture by creating a bright contrast in graphic elements. The furniture itself in this case becomes a neutral canvas for the designer. The hue, which often sits between

the natural and the surreal, dazzles the eye, and the richness of the colours and natural textures sometimes reminds us of complex cosmic landscapes.

This year's furniture collections mix several styles at once, from Art Deco to Memphis, to arrive at an entirely new proposition. Only simple geometric forms remain from the previously used design elements. Through the use of skillfully worked natural materials, such designer items can easily be at home in any interior, including even the most sophisticated and expensive ones.

Last year furniture manufacturers began to use marble in their collections. But now they are not limited to only white Carraran stone, as designers boldly experiment with different shades and types of stone. Glossy surfaces and bold and unexpected colours can be seen in the framing of various metals, as well the pairing of other colours with the marble, creating an interesting play of surfaces.

Interestingly, the graphic quality of the texture of wood is also referenced. Geometric elements combined into a single pattern look best against a wooden surface, and a variety of metals can be used to decorate any interior. Processed materials are also trendy, including oxidised brass, copper of different colours, and painted metals that have been weathered or distressed. All of these embody a vintage aesthetic and place value on interior objects. The harsh brightness of gold is less common: if it is used at all, then it is to accent or complement the minimalist furniture.

DESIGN BY NATURE Fresh trends in interior design include the use of natural materials in various shades and textures

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DESIGN / FURNITURE


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BELL LIGHT PENDANT LAMPS, CLASSICON

FISHBONE TABLE, MOROSO

EARTHQUAKE 5.9 BOOKCASE, BUDRI

ORIGAMI TABLE, BUDRI

COFFEE TABLE TERRAMARE DE CASTELLI

MAYA WALL TILES, CTO LIGHTING

FLOAT SOFA, SANCAL

LIVING / FURNITURE

They were brought to the publics attention by the company Frigerio21, founded almost a century ago by Angelo Frigerio. Today the factory creates unique interior design items

from marble, like stylish lounge chairs that can be seen on the pages of professional magazines such as AD.

The brand owes its international success to the efforts of Davi Frigerio, the great-grandson of the founder. In 2014 the talented heir presented a collection of tables entirely hand made and decorated with gold, glass and carvings. In our work we pay the closest attention to the details, to the quality of the hand work, to the finishing, and, it goes without saying, to the quality of the stone itself, marble and granite, whose natural beauty is emphasised with inlays made of the most precious materials, says Davi Frigerio. His brand follows century-old traditions, but without forgetting the latest innovations, and creates true masterpieces fully deserving of the Made in Italy label.

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MARBLE PERFECTIONDuna, Opera and Diva are three rising stars of Italian design

DUNELounge chair made of travertine, created together with the architect Barbara Monteverdi , .

OPERALounge chair made of white Carrara marble and black Marquinia marble Marquinia

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DUNA, OPERA DIVA


Diva

BIKE BUTLERRIDE HOME COLLECTION

When cycling meets interior design.

The first collection by vadolibero, a new Milan-based company born with a mission: to design smart solutions for those who love and use their bike, whether every so often or every day,

men or women of every age and mindset. Smart solutions for smart human beings.

www.vadolibero.com


DESIGN / INTERVIEW

Alisa Zayceva graduated architectural academy with honours, and only a few years after graduating, in 2009, she opened her own design studio. During this time the subject of our interview successfully realised a large number of unique projects not only in Russia, but in Europe. We asked Alisa about her work days, trends in the sphere of design, and

about what a house must embody in order to make it a home

INTERIORS THAT FEEL LIKE HOME

What did you do before opening your own studio?I worked in the field of art and exclusive furniture, and Im always using this priceless

experience. Today my projects can be completely different, from decoration to turnkey construction.

How does work on each new project start?By talking with the client! I discuss various topics with them at length, trying to get a clear idea of their tastes and preferences. Every space I work on must reflect the internal world of the client. The personality of

the interior depends on thousands of details, colour decisions, finishings. I sort of weave the design fabric, element by element. For me a sense of harmony, tranquillity and comfort are very important. Because a home is a place where one wants to live, not some museum where you always feels like a visitor!

Do you have a soft spot for interiors from specific countries?I really love furniture from Italian, French and also American masters. Some items are made according to my own sketches. Such furniture is always done as a one-off. Its really unique.

Which part of your work can you call the most interesting?Each stage is fascinating. But perhaps my favourite is the beginning of a new project. I always look forward to it with anticipation since these are new emotions, experiences and goals, and yet another impetus for development.

And which stage is the most difficult?I really have to be careful about all of them and its impossible to single out one, but when you work with a team of carefully selected professionals each stage is easy and enjoyable.

DESIGN / INTERVIEW


ALISA ZAYCEVAarchitector, decor, interior

Which interiors today are the most popular? Various cultures have long been intertwined with one another, and this is obvious in interior design. The most popular trend now is neoclassical, using furniture and decor from various eras and countries. Of course there are always trends, but really a good interior is timeless.

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DESIGN / ITINERARY


ORSORAMA AND ITS UNIQUE SOUVENIRS OF ITALYTheres a very interesting place hidden on Via dell'Orso (literally Bear Street) by the name of ORSORAMA. Its an art gallery and a shop, which is now exhibiting Italian souvenirs. Here you can buy original works of art and exclusive clothing and accessories produced directly in the studio of the boutique. All of the paintings, art objects, posters and interiors were designed especially by ORSORAMA artists, sculptors and designers. Notice the capsule collection of silk scarves, t-shirts and dresses with creative prints: Italy and stereotypes related to it are portrayed with humour, irony and taste! Even if you do not plan to buy anything, it is worth a visit to the gallery to admire the art works.

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BRERA QUARTER GUIDE

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Brera is a maze of cosy little streets, beautifully interwoven with each other. In the past this was a bohemian district, favoured by painters, writer and artists. Now, it boasts a unique atmosphere, in many ways thanks to the antique bookstores, unusual galleries and shops. We take you to our favourite locations

brera.beniculturali.it

Via dell'OrsO, 14 orsorama.com

DESIGN / ITINERARY


HOTEL MILANO SCALA: AN IDEAL PLACE TO STAY AND MORE.Located in the heart of Brera, Hotel Milano Scala is the first eco-hotel in Milan with zero emissions. Its interior and the atmosphere will remind you of the famous opera house La Scala. It is no accident that even breakfast is served to the accompaniment of live music here. The harp, cello, piano or guitar - instruments and repertoire change every day.The hotel is located in a XIX century mansion. You can see the typical Milanese ringhiera balconies entwined with jasmine in its courtyard. On the eighth floor there is a summer terrace, the Sky T

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