F E L T E D B O X E SD E S I G N B Y K A Y G A R D I N E R

M A S O N D I X O N K N I T T I N G . C O M

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M E A S U R E M E N T S ( I N C H E S )S I Z E S M A L L M E D I U M L A R G E

5½ × 6 × 4 7½ × 8 × 4½ 9 × 9½ × 5

M E A S U R E M E N T S ( C M )S I Z E S M A L L M E D I U M L A R G E

14 × 15 × 10 19 × 20 × 11 23 × 24 × 12

Y A R NLamb’s Pride Bulky by Brown Sheep, [4 oz (112 g) skeins, each approx 125 yds (114 m), wool/mohair] in any color or combination of colors.

Skeins 2 3 3

N E E D L E S & T O O L S · Size 10 (6 mm) needles (or size needed to achieve gauge) · Size J/10 (6 mm) crochet hook (exact size not important, but it must be large enough to work with a single strand

of the yarn)

G A U G E12 sts + 12 garter ridges = 4 inches (10 cm) over garter st (before felting).

Notes: The yarn is used doubled throughout the pattern. The right side (“RS”) forms the inside of the box.

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P A T T E R N

Note: The box is knitted flat, in the shape of a cross. It is then folded into a three-dimensional box and joined at the corners with crochet.

S I D E O N ECO 12 (16, 20) sts. Working in garter stitch, knit 4 ridges.

Make handle: On the next row (RS), k4 (5, 6), BO 4 (6, 8), k4 (5,6). On the next row (WS), k4 (5, 6), CO 4 (6, 8), k4 (5, 6).

Knit 6 (7, 8) garter ridges and knit the next row.

Make first folding seam: On the next row (WS), purl.

B O T T O M Knit 12 (16, 20) garter ridges and knit the next row. Make second folding seam: On the next row (WS), purl.

S I D E T W OKnit 6 (7, 8) garter ridges.

Make handle: On the next row (RS), k4 (5, 6), BO 4 (6, 8), k4 (5,6). On the next row (WS), k4 (5, 6), CO 4 (6, 8), k4 (5, 6). Knit 3 garter ridges. BO all sts.

S I D E T H R E EWS (outside of box) facing, pick up and k12 (16, 20) sts, picking up one stitch in each of the garter ridges on 1 of the 2 sides of the Bottom.

Knit the next (RS) row. Make folding seam: On the next row (WS), purl. Knit 6 (7, 8) garter ridges.

Make handle: On the next row (RS), k4 (5, 6), BO 4 (6, 8), k4 (5,6). On the next row (WS), k4 (5, 6), CO 4 (6, 8), k4 (5, 6). Knit 3 garter ridges (6 rows).

BO all sts.

S I D E F O U R Same as side three.

F I N I S H I N G

J O I N I N G T H E B O X C O R N E R S W I T H S I N G L E C R O C H E TFold up 2 adjoining sides of the box, with wrong sides together. Do not fret about the appearance of your cro-chet; the single strand of yarn is invisible after felting.

1 Make a slip knot. Insert hook into 1 row on each side at the bottom of box and pull a loop of yarn through both stitches. Now you have 2 loops on the hook.

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2 Pull another loop of yarn through both loops on the hook, leaving you with a single loop.

3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 all the way up to the top of the box, and fasten off. The edges should match perfectly because each side of the box has the same number of rows.

N E S T I N G B O X E S T H A T R E A L L Y N E S T If you are making a set of nesting boxes, be sure to felt all three boxes at the same time. Felting is a some-what unpredictable process—remember, the wool you are using  probably does not all come from the same sheep. By felting your boxes in the same load, you can at least control the variables associated with the wash-ing machine.

I T N E V E R H U R T S T O A S KYou probably know that wool that is labeled “Super Wash” has been treated so that it will not shrink, which means that it will not felt, which means that you shouldn’t try to make a felted box out of it. But did you also know that some untreated wools do not felt well? If you’re unsure about a brand or color, ask before you buy.

F E L T I N G

Place in top-loading washing machine filled to the lowest water level with hot water. Add a small amount of deter-gent or liquid soap and a pair of old jeans. Let the washer run through its wash cycle using a cold rinse.

Shape the box, placing it upright on a flat surface. Fill the box with rolled-up washcloths or small towels, which

will help it dry by absorbing water from the inside of the box. Steam the box to set its shape, and let it set until it is completely dry.

For less fuzz, use a disposable razor to shave the outside of the box.

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V I S I T M A S O N D I X O N K N I T T I N G . C O MF O R M O R E P A T T E R N S , Y A R N A N D K N I T T I N G A D V E N T U R E S !

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T E C H N I C A L H I N T S

O H , N O ! C R E A S E S I N M Y F E L T E D B O X ! The centrifugal force of the spin cycle, or a crowded washer, can cause creases in your felted box. You can avoid these creases entirely by removing the box before the final spin, but a sopping wet box takes much longer to dry.

Usually you can avoid creases by removing the item immediately after the spin cycle ends, and promptly shap-ing and steaming it. You can remove creases by wetting with a spray bottle and steaming heavily.

F E L T I N G I N F R O N T - L O A D I N G W A S H E R SI have better success felting in a top-loading machine with an agitator, but by necessity I sometimes felt in a front-loader. It just takes a bit of bravery to felt “blind”—you can’t check on your felting mid-cycle when there is water in the machine.

To deal with any creases that may form in the final spin, see the tip about creases.