buildingFLYING DUTCHMAN

By Gerald Taylor White

Design by Westlawn Associates. Naval Architects

IF FLYING DUTCHMAN were a newand untried type of boat, you would be

entitled to look at her plans and remark,"She looks wonderful on paper, but it isall too good to be true." For where else canyou find a boat of this length that has ahuge forecastle, an enclosed toilet room, agood galley, and two full-length berths, tosay nothing of as much deck room as onthe average 30-footer?

FLYING DUTCHMAN is the latest ofthe GREY DAWN designs. The basic hulllines were developed in Holland centuriesago and boats of this type have been usedever since in both the shoal waters of theZuyder Zee and the vicious waters of theNorth Sea. The first of these Dutchmen tobe designed in this country was GREYDAWN II. She was built over 20 yearsago and is still afloat. During her two-

score-and-more years she has cruised theEast Coast from Maine to the Carribbean,and her owner would have sailed her acrossto Europe had it not been for the war. Sheis a 37-footer. Scores of duplicates havebeen built and are now in service on bothcoasts, the Gulf, and the Great Lakes.

Yachtsmen who saw the 37-footerwanted a smaller edition; so a 29-footerwas designed. Again the boat out-per-formed all expectations. The next was a 22-footer, the prototype of FLYING DUTCH-MAN. In this, the most recent of thedesigns, the original lines have been keptwithout a single deviation—wise men donot gamble with perfection. Some changes,based on previous experiences, have beenmade in the deck and cabin arrangements.

Here is an auxiliary that—for a boat ofher size—is extremely easy to build. There

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are no steam-bent frames, no cross-bend-ing of parts. Some of the planks and thechines and clamps will be too stiff to go incold. Wrap them with old rags or sackingand provide a supply of boiling water tobe poured on the rags as the clamp screwsare gradually tightened. She isn't a lightlittle plaything, she is all boat; and, ifbuilt according to the plans and specifica-tions, should last for at least 25 years.

All of you may not be technically in-clined, but to really appreciate the virtuesof the boat, it may be worthwhile to con-sider for a few minutes some of the mathe-matical aspects of the design. Unlike mostboats, her center of buoyancy is closer tothe midship section than to the next stationaft. This is an ideal situation if the entireunderbody can be properly balanced. If youwill look at the drawing entitled Lines andOffsets, you will see a dotted line markedCurve of Areas. The shape of that line

indicates the path of the water around andunder the hull. Note that the forward andafter ends of that curve are almost identi-cal. In a motorboat, that would be fatalto speed; in a sailing craft, it is ideal fromboth the speed and rough-water angles.

If the lines of FLYING DUTCHMANcould be compared with any American type,it would be the Down-East dory. But thedory is known for its lack of stability,while the GREY DAWN type is famed forexactly the opposite. The answer lies in theway the hull is balanced. Look at theCurve of Righting Arms on the Accommo-dation Plan. It represents the inherentpower in the hull that causes it to returnto an even keel. Many sailing boats havea curve that reaches its peak at about 30°and then falls off sharply. You will notethat the stabilizing effect of this hull shapeis still going upwards at even 40°. At anysuch angle, the deck edge would be way

106 Mechanix Illustrated

under water. In other words, a carelessskipper could actually sail the boat underwater but she would still be struggling toright herself.

In rough water, her widely flaring sideslift her up and over the seas instead ofplunging through them. It would be severeweather indeed to cause this boat to driveher bow under. This is what designers callabnormally high reserve buoyancy. She isat her best with the wind abeam or slightlyforward or aft of that point. Going towindward, she will point up surpris-ingly well—as a stunt, a sister ship wassailed dead to windward, tacking up achannel 100 ft. in width—but her worstpoint of sailing is going dead before thewind, especially when running into roughwater. Her bows are a bit bluff for thissort of work; so she will carry a heavybow wave. The wise skipper will soonlearn this and won't sail a direct down-wind course.

The power plant shown is a Universal8-hp. Fisherman. Any small engine ofabout the same power will do providingthat it doesn't turn over 1,500 r.p.m. Don'texpect a little high-speed engine, turning a10-in. propeller, to be sufficient. It is notthe amount of power, but the combinationof power and relatively low revolutions.If you must get a high-speed engine, it willhave to have a reduction gear, for FLYINGDUTCHMAN needs a propeller at least 14in. in diameter, and 16 in. would be betteryet. Like many successful auxiliaries, theengine is installed so the propeller is offcenter. Thus the natural tendency of a boatto be thrown off her course due to wheeltorque is counteracted. This would notapply to the average motorboat as the areaof lateral plane is much less and you wouldhave steering troubles.

Make up your mind to one thing beforeyou build her—that you will not change asingle line. Years of experience went intoher design. The construction, shapes, lo-cations of weights, and all other factorsare correct the way they are shown. Ifyou attempt to change any measurements,alter the rig, or monkey with weights, the

result will probably be a total waste of yourtime and money.

FLYING DUTCHMAN is timed-tried,comfortable, reasonably fast, and built tolast many, many years. Can you ask formore in any boat?

SPECIFICATIONS

Length Over All 22 ft. 0 in.Length Waterline 18 ft. 9 in.Beam, Extreme 9 ft. 5.5 in.Beam, Waterline 7 ft. 9 in.Draft, Board Up 20.5 in.Draft, Board Down 4 ft. 0 in.

General. The objects of these specifica-tions are to help in explaining the drawingsand to specify certain materials and sizes.In every case, dimensions mentioned inthese specifications should be consideredas authentic, even if the plans do not scalethe same exact size. Lettered dimensions onthe drawings should be taken in preferenceto scaling.

Laying Down. To insure accuracy, it ishighly advisable to lay down the set oflines full size on the shop floor. This is be-cause a variation of only the thickness ofa line on the drawing will make a differ-ence in the full-size boat. Only when it isimpossible to obtain a smooth, level floorupon which the lines may be laid downshould the frames be made directly fromthe Table of Offsets. Note that the offsetsextend to the outside of the planking andthe decking and that the frames fit to theinside of planking and decking; thereforethe thickness of planking and deckingmust be deducted when the frames aremade.

Keel. White oak, 4 in. thick, built asshown in detail drawing. Note that to savelumber there is a piece of triangular dead-wood aft and a similar piece forward. Thekeel is slotted for the centerboard from apoint 7 in. forward of Station 4 to a point1 in. abaft Station 7. This slot is 1-1/2in.wide. The fastenings for the keel and itsparts are 3/8-in. through or drift bolts, asindicated on the drawing. The surfaces ofall joints must be well covered with non-

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hardening marine glue or white lead beforebeing drawn together.

Stem. White oak, sided 4 in., molded6 in., arranged as shown and extended farenough above the rail line so it can be fin-ished off with the ornamental curve. Belowthe clipper stem it is faced off to a widthof 3/4 in., but in way of the clipper stem,facing off should be left until that pieceis in place. The entire stem is rabbetted forthe planking.

Clipper Stem. White oak, preferably agrown knee, 2-1/2 ". thick where it joinsthe stem and tapered to 1-1/4". thick at theforward upper point and, gradually, to 3/4in. thick at the forward lower point.

Stem Knee. White oak, sided 3 in. andmolded about as shown. You can getslightly more room in the forepeak anduse shorter bolts if you curve the upperportion of the stem knee, although it in-volves more work.

Stern Post. White oak, sided 4 in., molded4 in., and notched for the l-1/4 ". transom.

Stopwaters. Half-inch white-pine stop-

waters are driven where indicated, therebeing two forward and one just forwardof Station 2.

Transom. White oak, 1-1/4 " thick, in aswide boards as possible. If made of marineplywood, it can be 1 in. thick. Note thatthe notch in the stern post must be thesame thickness as the transom. If madeof boards, the seams run horizontally andare backed by 7/8x2-in. screw-fastenedcleats. The forward face of the transomis finished off with 7/8x2-in. white-oakscrew-fastened cleats to form an extrabacking for the planking. If a plywoodstern is used, the cleats should be flushwith the edges of the transom. An alterna-tive method when the transom is made ofoak boards is to have the cleats 1-1/4 in.thick and to set them in the thickness ofthe planking from the edges of the transom.In this case, the plank ends butt againstthe transom and great care must be takento apply plenty of marine glue between thecleats and the transom.

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Flying Dutchman[Continued from page 108]

Centerbaard Head Ledges. White oak,2-1/2x3-1/2 "., with the larger dimension runningathwartships. At the bottom, each head ledgeis notched to a thickness of 1-1/2in. so it can beslipped down into the centerboard slot. Plentyof marine glue should be applied at this pointand, when in place, two bolts should pass en-tirely through the keel and each head ledge.Both head ledges are long enough to extend tothe cabin roof, the forward one helping to sup-port the roof beam at about Station 7 and theafter one being beneath a block of white oakspanning two of the roof beams, as shown.Great care must be taken that these headledges are square with the waterline in bothdirections.

CenterboardTrunk Logs. White oak, 2x6in. Along each upper inner edge there is alxl-in. rabbet facing the slot. They are alsorabbetted at the ends, around the head ledges,to which they are bolted. The distance be-tween the trunk logs is equal to the widthof the slot. These logs must through-bolt inthe rabbet all the way down to the bottomof the keel, there being not less than five boltsin each of the logs. The trunk sides are madeof two layers of 1-in. white oak, the innerlayer being screwed into the trunk-log rabbetafter plenty of marine glue is applied. Usel-3/4 -in. No. 12 screws, spaced not more than3 in. apart. The outer layer is of similar ma-terial, but arranged so the seams of the twolayers are staggered. Plenty of glue or whitelead must be applied between the layers. Thetwo layers are fastened together along theseams with 1-3/4-in. No. 9 screws, spaced nomore than 4 in. apart. The trunk sides arebuilt up to a total height of 34 in. above thekeel. Great care must be exercised in the con-struction of this trunk to make it tight andstrong.

Bitts. There is a main mooring bitt, 4x4in., of white oak or locust, located as shown.mortised into the stem knee, and fastenedthere with not less than two drift bolts. Thisbitt extends 9 in. above the forward decking

' and is fitted with a 1-in. bronze pin approxi-mately 9 in. long. Above deck, the bitt is neatlybeveled off. Aft, there are two additional bittsextending from the bottom of the boat upthe face of the transom and for a distance of15 in. above the rail line. These are of whiteoak or locust, 3x3 in., spaced 22 in. apartand thoroughly secured to the transom with

1/4 " bolts. At their top is a 1-in. bronze rodto be used as a traveller.

This rod is approximately 30 in. long and ispinned to prevent it from shifting from sideto side.

Mast Step. White oak, 4x4 in., notchedover three frames, as shown, and secured tothose frames with 1/4x8-in., drift bolts. Asquare hole, 3 in. fore and aft by 1-1/4 ", iscut in the step to receive the heel of the mast.

Bottom Frames. White oak, 7/8x4 in. Oneframe is placed on each Station, as providedby the Offset Table, and there is one addi-tional frame at each Half Station. There isalso one extra bottom frame at the after sideof the after head ledge. Two feet off the cen-terline, each of these frames has a 3/4x2-in.limber hole. This distance cannot be main-tained forward of Station 7, where the limberholes will have to be alongside the keel battenand triangular in form, as shown on Sections8 and 9. Each bottom frame fastens throughthe keel with a 1/4-in. through bolt. Note thatthe bottom frames fall on the after sides of thestation marks.

Side Frames. White oak, 7/8x3"., locatedon the forward sides of the station marks.These frames should extend quite a distanceabove the main sheer, as the rail frames areattached to them. At the chine, the side andbottom frames are notched for the chine andare fastened together with three 1/4-in. bolts.The rail frames are the same size as the sideframes and are on the after sides of the sideframes, fastening to each with three 1/4"bolts. These frames project an inch or so abovethe rail line and can later be cut. The threeframes at Stations 9, 9-1/2, and 10 have extrafloor timbers, the same size as the bottomframes, extending across the top of the stemknee and fastening with two bolts to eachside frame.

Keel Battens. Between each bottom frame,except in way of the centerboard trunk, thereis a white-oak keel batten, 1-1/4x6 in. This6-in. measurement is net and even an addi-tional width will do no harm. Each keel battenfastens to the keel with not less than three3-in. galvanized boat nails driven at slightangles. The joint between batten and keelmust be coated with marine glue or whitelead.

Chine. There are two chines, an inner andouter one, both being 1-1/4x2-1/2 " white oak,preferably in single lengths. The outer onefits into the frame notches, boxes into the stemand transom cleats, and fastens to each framewith at least one 2-in. boat nail. The innerchine is bent at the intersection of side andbottom frames and must be beveled off onthe bottom to form a good brace for the framelaps. Better than beveling would be to notchthe underside of the chine across each of the

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Flying Dutchman[Continued from page 128]

bottom frames. Fasten with one boat nail intoeach side and bottom frame.

Main Clamps. Longleaf yellow pine, l-1/4x2-1/2",, in single lengths if possible, fastenedto each side frame with two galvanized boatnails and boxed into the transom cleats. Itis important that the clamps be located inthe proper position below the sheer line sothe deck beams can rest upon them and thetop of the decking come exactly on the mainsheer line.

Main Deck Beams. 7/8X2-1/2 ", cut to acamber of 19 ft. 6 in. There is one extra deckbeam as a filler between the bulkhead andthe regular beam on Station 8. In -way of thehatch above the forepeak, the beam on Sta-tion 9 is cut as shown and the hatch framedup with fore-and-aft carlings the same sizeas the beams. Deck beams from Stations 3-1/2to 7 are installed on the forward sides of theside frames, being screwed or bolted to theheads of the side frames. In way of the cabin,there are short beams extending to a point2 ft. 10 in. from the centerline of the boatand resting upon l-1/4x3-in. carlings firmlyattached to the bulkheads at Stations 3 and 8.

Cockpit Deck Beams. Same size as maindeck beams, but cut to no camber. Bolt tothe after side of each frame and locate so thecockpit decking will be 9 in. above the water-line or 3 ft. above the base line. In way ofthe engine box, a hatch is framed up. It issuggested that the engine be installed at aboutthis time so the size of the hatch can be madeto suit the machine installed, making sure toprovide plenty of space for working aroundthe engine and reaching into the storage spaceunder the cockpit deck. It is advisable to placea post on the centerline from each of the cock-pit beams down to the keel to keep the deckfrom sagging.

Mast Partners And Fillers. In way of themast and for the entire distance from it to thestem there are 2-in. fillers of scrap wood toprovide a firm foundation for the mast wedgesand the bitt.

Breasthook. 1-1/4 in. thick, in the form of atriangle, filling in between the forward endsof the clamps and the stem. Should be wellfastened through the clamps and also to thestem.

Bulkheads. The bulkhead at Station 8 isconstructed of 1-in. marine plywood. In wayof the lavatory, a paneled door leading to theforepeak is installed. While this can be ahinged door, it will be more convenient if itis arranged to remove, being held in placewith cleats and thumb buttons.

Engine Bed. It is impossible to specify the

shape of the engine bed as it will vary to suitthe engine installed. Basically, it is made of2-in. yellow pine or white oak, notched overframes from Stations 2 to 3-1/2, and through-bolted to them. The bed is installed at anangle to the centerline in such a position thatthe shaft line intersects the centerline at Sta-tion 3 and is approximately 12 in. off the cen-terline and not less than 10 in. below the topof the keel at Station 1/2. It is highly importantto know what engine is to be installed andwhat the direction of rotation will be. A left-hand engine turning a righthand propeller'should be installed with the propeller on thestarboard side. A righthand engine turninga lefthand wheel should be installed at theopposite angle. Where the shaft passes throughthe hull, a 4x4-in. wedge-shaped shaft logis installed and bolted down to the plankingover a canvas and white-lead gasket. Thisshaft log carries the stuffing box. The afterend of the shaft is carried on a strut boltedthrough the planking with fillers on the inside,said strut to have dimensions to suit the shaftsize and angle required for the individualengine.

Cabin Construction. Each cabin side iscarried on a 2x4-in. oak or yellow-pine sill.These sills are cut off at the bottoms at 8°angles from horizontal to impart the properrake to the cabin sides and their tops arerabbeted to take said cabin sides. At theforward and after ends of the cabin aresimilar sills. The forward one bolts througha deck beam and the after one bolts througha cockpit beam and is framed up around theengine box. The cabin sides are 1-in. oak,yellow pine, or mahogany and are screw-fastened into the lxl-in. rabbets in the topsof the sills. Use 1-3/4in. No. 10 screws at in-tervals of no more than 4 in. While marineplywood could be used for these sides, con-siderable difficulty would be encounteredwhen rabbeting it for the windows. Theheight of the sides is taken from the outboardprofile.

The bottom and sides of each window open-ing have 1/4X1/2 in. rabbets in order that aconventional jump-and-swing sash can be in-stalled. On the outside, to protect the opening,there is a 3/8x2-in. batten at top and bottom.Each sash frame is lxl-1/2-in. oak or mahogany,rabbeted for the double-thick glass, which isheld in place with quarter-round molding.Each sash is fitted inside with a handle and ahook for securing it to a roof beam. In theforward end of the cabin are two 6-in. port-lights. •

(Part II will appear next month).

130

By Gerald Taylor White

Design by West/own Associates

AS mentioned last month, Flying. Dutchman is patterned after the

traditional, time-tested Dutch yachts.She has amazingly comfortable androomy cruising accommodations fortwo. This month we are presentingthe remainder of the drawings andspecifications.

Cabin Construction, continued.While marine plywood can be usedfor the cabin sides, considerable diffi-culty would be encountered whenrabbeting for the windows; so youare advised to use the materialpreviously specified. The 1x2-in.roof beams are cut to a radius of 11ft. 6 in. and are located as shown in theplans. One of these beams notches intothe upper end of the forward headledge.In way of the cabin hatch, the beams areframed up in the manner usual for hatches.Note that the cabin sides extend beyondthe bulkhead on Station 3. The cabin dooris made of the same material as the bulk-head and is framed up to suit. The hatchis also of the same material, is arranged onlow coamings, and is of the double-hingedtype—the after portion folds forward; thenboth halves can be flipped forward ontothe cabin roof. All necessary hooks, hinges,and locks are to be provided. The hingesfor the hatch and for the engine box mustbe of the continuous type. The cabin roofis 3/4 " T&G white pine or spruce, witha V-bead on the underside. This roof iscovered with 8-oz. canvas that is laid inglue and turned down under the cabin-side moldings. The roof beams are sup-ported by 1x2-in. cabin clamps, which areshoved up tightly under the ends of thebeams and screw-fastened to the cabinsides.

Planking. White cedar, white pine, long-leaf yellow pine, cypress, or mahogany, tofinish 7/8-in. thick. The number of planksused are shown in the section drawings,

but it may be necessary to insert stealersat the forward end. These stealers shouldnot run to a feather edge, but should benibbed into the planks. Where butts arenecessary, they are to be backed with%-in. oak blocks reaching from frame toframe. Each block is to be at least 1-1/2".wider than the plank. Butts in adjoiningplanks are to be at least 3 ft. apart. Theplanking is secured to the frames with3-in. boat nails driven at slight angles 4 in.apart. At the stem, stern, chines, andkeel battens, use 2-in. No. 12 screws. Bevelthe planking so there are 1/16". caulkingopenings on the outside and the seams arelight-tight on the inside.

Decking. All decking is similar in speci-fications to the planking, but is coveredwith 10-oz. canvas that is turned up insidethe sill and the bulwark ceiling. At theframeheads, the decking extends as closeto the frames as possible, watertight jointsbeing made with the bulwark planking,which is 3/4in. thick and extends to a point1 in. below the rail cap. This must fit verytightly against the deck and must be wellfastened to the frames. To further insurewatertightness, a shaped quarter-roundmolding is screw-fastened at the junctionof deck and bulwark. All decking is fast

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ened with 2-1/2" boat nails. The cockpitdeck is the same as the main deck. Be-tween Frames 1/2 and 1,1.5 and 2, and 2.5and 3, the deking extends through to theplanking. Great care should be takenhere to insure watertightness. Scuppersare then cut through the planking so anywater can drain overboard.

Waterways. Around the upper outeredge of the cabin are 1x1-1/2-in. combinedwaterways and grab rails, which arescrew-fastened through the canvas intothe cabin top. Cut scuppers through thesewaterways at the low spots to providedrainage.

Centerboard. White oak, 1-1/4 in. thick,and of the shape shown in the detail. Allpieces forming the board are fastened to-gether with 3/8-in. galvanized rod. Leador iron ballast, about 35 lbs., is added toovercome flotation. The board is hung ona 7/8-in. bronze pin that passes entirelythrough the keel and is fitted with cotterpins and washers on the outside. A bronzebushing is placed in the centerboard overthe pin. A light chain is shackled to theafter end of the centerboard and runsthrough a sheave at the top of the afterheadledge, then down to a light tackle.After the board is installed, a cap is secured

across the top of the trunk. It has smallmoldings along the edges to prevent smallarticles from rolling off.

Rudder. White oak, 1-1/4" thick, builtup the same as the centerboard, andshaped as shown, with three notches cutin the after edge to act as a boarding lad-der. It is hung on heavy gudgeons andpintles, or else on heavy bronze screweyesthrough which a 3/8-in. rod is run. Thetiller is made of a piece of white oak orash, 2-1/2 in. deep, 1-1/4 in. thick, and ap-proximately 4 ft. 4 in. long. It is shapedas shown in the plans. A ball may becarved on the end if desired. The tillerfastens to the rudder through a slot thefull thickness of the rudder blade. On eachside of the slot there are oak blocks about16 in. long and 1-1/4 in. thick, nicelytapered towards the bottom, through-bolted above and below the tiller slot, andscrew-fastened at the bottom. Extremecare should be taken to make a strong jobhere as there is considerable strain on thetiller.

Moldings. Along the main sheer and therail line there are 1-1/2in. half-round oakmoldings. These must be very well screwedinto the frames and it is important thatthick paint or marine glue be applied to

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the undersides of the moldings before theyare fastened. Additional half and quarter-round moldings are used where requiredto make a neat finish.

Rail Cap. The entire bulwark from stemto stern is covered with a white oak orlongleaf pine 1x5-in. cap. This restshorizontally on top of the frames andscrew-fastens into the edges of the planksand into each frame. In way of any fittingsattached to the cap, oak filler blocks, fittedtightly between the frames and fastenedthereto, are used.

Interior Arrangement, Below decksforward there is a large forepeak. It isreached through a deck hatch and throughthe panel in the forward bulkhead. A lightgrating is laid here to keep ropes and sailsfrom getting into the bilge. It is suggested,although not necessary, that a 6-in. dead-light be installed in the hatch. The toiletroom is built, as shown, of %-in. marineplywood. A marine watercloset is installedwith lead-pipe connections for inlet andoutlet. Outboard of the watercloset, shelvesfor linen and other equipment are installed.Around the inside of the toilet room, coathooks are installed to suit. In the maincabin, both of the berths are built of %-in.marine plywood and fitted with lockersunderneath. The tops of the cushions are12 in. above the floor. The depths of theberth boxes depend upon the thickness ofthe cushions and whether or not boxsprings are used. Shelves are installed out-

board of the berths and a folding tableof 3/4-in. plywood is fitted against thecenterboard trunk. A small locker for gunsand rods is installed against the after bulk-head between the companion ladder and thestarboard berth. On the port side, a dresser,11 in. high, is constructed, with lockersunder it and dish racks over. The stoverests on this dresser in the position shownand must run athwartships. The sinkmeasures 12x12 in. It drains overboard,the dresser being raised high enough toallow this. The water supply is by meansof a 3/8-in. copper tube with gravity flowfrom the tank forward. The companion-way ladder is made of 3/4-in. plywood andfitted with hooks so it can be removed togain access to the engine and the lazar-ette. It is suggested from the standpoint ofsafety that the stove be set in a zinc-covered box and that the bulkhead abaftthe stove be covered with 1/4-in. asbestosand then covered with zinc.

Ventilation. A 3-in. mushroom-typeventilator is installed in the forward deckto keep articles [Continued on page 136]

110 Mechanix Illustrated

BILL OF MATERIALS(Approximate Quantities Required)

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Flying Dutchman[Continued from page 110]

in the forepeak from remaining damp. Ven-tilation to the engine can be provided withtwo mushroom-type vents or a number ofholes in engine box.

Tanks. There are two cylindrical gal-vanized tanks fitted on the forward deck inheavy oak chocks. Each tank should haveat least one swash plate and a filling cap witha small vent in the top. The tanks are heldin place with heavy galvanized straps linedwith belt lining and drawn down either withturnbuckles or with lag screws. Where theoutlet pipes pass through the deck, the open-ings should be tight. After passing throughthe deck, the pipes go outboard to the sides ofthe boat just inside the frames; then down andaft under the cabin floor. A shut-off valvemust be arranged under the deck for eachtank. The starboard tank is for fuel and theport tank for water.

Deck Box. A deck box of 7/8-in. waterproofplywood is installed alongside the enginehatch. It is used as a seat and as a receptaclefor small articles.

Icebox. Similar to the deck box, exceptthat it consists of an inner and an outer boxwith at least 1 in. of ground-cork or glass-wool insulation between the two boxes. Thedrain for melted ice runs onto the deck.

Boom Crotch. A scissors-type boom crotch,of 1-1/4x4 " white oak, is built as shown in thedetail and arranged to hook to the insides ofthe traveller bitts at cockpit level and to ex-tend far enough above deck to carry the boomwhen the sails are furled.

Bowsprit. White oak or longleaf pine, 8 ft.long and made from a 4x4-in. piece of materialtapered down to 3 in. at the outboard end. Itpasses through an opening in the bulwark onthe starboard side of the stem, to which it isthrough-bolted. Abaft the stem it is rectangu-lar in section; forward of the stem it is gradu-ally rounded off. It bolts down throughthe deck fillers and through the bitt.

Mast and Boom. To be of selected spruceand made as per the details. The mast is roundin section with a maximum diameter of5-1/2 in. The boom is rectangular in section,made of a piece of 2-1/4-in. material. It is leftstraight on top, slightly rounded on the bot-tom, and tapered towards the ends asshown.

Deck Fittings. One pair 6-in. bow chocks for-ward; one 8-in. main-sheet cleat on the travel-ler aft; two 6-in. jib cleats bolted throughblocks on top of the cabin; two swivel-type jibleads, also bolted through blocks on the cabinroof; two 8-in. halliard cleats, one on eachside of the mast; two 5-in. lazyjack cleats; two

cheek leads for the lazyjack; two thimbles, twoeyebolts on the boom, and two eyebolts on themast for the lazyjack; one boom jaw withband; six mast tangs; one masthead compres-sion band with four eyes; four chain plates;one bobstay plate; one compression band withfour eyes for the bowsprit; seven turnbuckles;one V-type strut for the jumper stays; and onemast slide with the necessary fittings.

Standing Rigging. All 1/4-in. flexible plowsteel, eye-spliced and attached to fittings withshackles or patented attachments. There arefour shrouds, a forestay, a jibstay, and twojumper stays.

Running Rigging. Halliards, 1/2-in.-dia.manila; jib sheets, 3/8-in.-dia. manila; mainsheet, 3/4".-dia. manila; lazyjacks, 3/8".-dia.manila. All to be properly spliced and sized.

Block List. All of the blocks are to be of asize to take the running rigging without chanceof binding if the rope swells. One single blockfor the jib halliard; one single block and onesingle block with becket for the main halliard;two single blocks, one double block withtraveller ring, and one eyebolt for the mainsheet.

Sails. Eight-oz. sailcloth of a quality to beapproved by the owner. The jib is to be fittedwith hanks for the stay. The mainsail is tohave slide fittings along the mast, lacing eyesalong the boom, a headboard at the peak, andtwo sets of reef points: one 2 ft. above thefoot and another 3 ft. 6 in. above the foot.To extend the roach, batten pockets are tobe installed at 4-ft. intervals. Both sails areto be supplied with sail covers and strops.

Sail Dimensions. Jib: Luff, 19 ft. 2 in.Foot, 9 ft. 6 in.Leech, 15 ft. 10 in.

Mainsail: Hoist, 28 ft.3 in.

Foot, 17 ft.7 in.

Leech, 32 ft,exclusive of

• roachRoach, 16 in.

Ballast. Like all centerboard boats, thiscraft will require trimming ballast, the exactamount depending upon the equipment in-stalled. So locate it to bring her to her de-signed waterline. All of this ballast is inside.In a boat of this character, ordinary buildingbrick provides an excellent ballast. It is cheapand easy to install. The cabin flooring shouldbe arranged with frequent hatches so theballast can be installed or moved. When theboat is to be hauled out for any length of

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Flying- Dutchman[Continued from page 136]

time, it is advisable to remove the ballast.Painting. All painting to be of a color to

suit the owner. There should not be less thanthree coats of either paint or varnish on theoutside of the boat, no less than two coats onthe inside. A suggested painting scheme isred antifouling paint for the bottom and theboottop, black from there to the main sheer,dark red between the sheer and the rail, whitecabin, white spars, and buff decks.

Anchors and Lines. Depending on whetherthe boat is to be kept in an exposed locationor not, there should be at least two yachts-man's anchors: a 50-lb. one and a 25-lb. one,or the equivalent in patented anchors. Thereshould be not less than 75 feet of 1-in. linefor the heavy anchor, the same amount of3/4-in. line for the light anchor, and at, least50 feet of 3/4-in. line for warps.

Well, Mates, that's the story. Our last wordof warning. If you've carefully read the fore-going, you can readily understand that any-one who builds a small boat must be a jack-of-all-trades. He must do countless jobs ofcarpentry, attend to the plumbing, install thewiring, fit the engine, cut and splice rigging,and paint and varnish the finished job. All ofthis requires careful planning, especially ifyou are an amateur: so don your thinkingcap and make haste slowly! •

138 Mechanix Illustrated