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Textile Fibers and

Yarns

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Objectives:

List the main characteristics of naturaland manufactured fibers

Explain how fibers are marketed

Summarize the role of leather and furas primary materials in fashion

Describe new fiber innovations

Explain how fibers are made intoyarns

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Fiber Categories

Natural Originate from natural sources

Plant (cellulosic) or animal(protein)

Manufactured, synthetic, orman-made (termsinterchangeable)

Originate from chemical sources

May also be from regenerated orrecycled sources

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NaturalFibers

Cellulosic (from plants) Cotton

From cotton plants

Flax (linen) From flax stems

Protein (from animals) Silk

From cocoons of silkworms

Wool From fleece (hair) of sheep

or lambs

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Textile Terms

Fibers Staple: short fibers

Usually characterizesa natural fiber

Filament: longcontinuous fibers

Usually characterizes

a synthetic fiber(except silk)

Denier

Fiber thickness or

diameter

Yarns Fibers twisted

together

Plyrefers to howmany yarns may betwisted togetherbefore weaving

FabricsYarns woven,knitted, or fusedtogether to createfabric

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Cotton Cellulosic fiber From bolls (seed

pods) growing onbushes

Comfortable

Soft and durable Absorbent, cool to

wear

Environmentallyfriendly cottoncan be grown in arange of colors

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Wool

Protein fiber

From sheep

Worsted wool ishigher quality withlong staple fibers(over 2 inches)

Natural insulator Will shrink and

mat if washed

Fl

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Flax(Linen)

Worlds oldest textile

fiber Cellulosic fiber from

stem of flax plant

Stiff, wrinkles easily

Absorbent, cool towear in heat

Other uses

Dish towelsTablecloths

Flax is the fiber name;

linen is the fabricname.

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Other Natural Fibers

Ramie

Jute

Sisal

Hemp Raffia

Downfeathers

Hair fibersfrom Goats

Rabbits

Camels

Cellulosi

cFibers

ProteinFibers

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Marketing NaturalFibers

Natural fiber tradeassociations:

Cotton Incorporated

National Cotton Council Wool Bureau, Inc.

Mohair Council ofAmerica

International SilkAssociation

Provide fabric libraries

Natural Fibers rcool

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ea er anFur

From hides or pelts(skins) of animals

Expensive

Artificial substitutesavailable (fauxleather and fur)

Leather used

mainly for footwear Fur used for

prestige appareland accessories

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Manufactured Fibers

Process

Raw materialsmelted or dissolved

to form thick syrup Liquid extruded

through spinneret

Extruded filamentsstretched andhardened into fibers

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Manufactured Fibers(generic groups)

Generic group: afamily of manufacturedfibers with similarchemical composition

Common generic fibersfrom chemical orpetroleum products: Polyester

Nylon

Olefin

Acrylic

Variants: trade orbrand names givento slightly modifiedgeneric fibers

Example: ANTRONnylon used forhosiery

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Manufactured Fibers

Qualities that are

unique or superiorto natural fibers

Elasticity

Nonallergenic

Strength

Resistant toabrasion

Qualities that

may be less thandesirable Feel clammy

because they arenonabsorbent

Build up staticelectricity

Susceptible to oilstains

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Other Types ofOther Types of

Manufactured FibersManufactured Fibers Fibers that come from a

plant (cellulosic) source;chemically altered tocreate new fibers(regenerated)

Rayon

Acetate and Triacetate

Lyocell

Fib I ti d

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Fiber Innovation andTrends

Fibers are designed forspecific end-uses

Polymers (chemical

compounds) areengineered to meet needs

Microfibers are ultra-finedeniers that make softer,more luxurious fabrics

Spandex added in fiberblends to make stretchablefabrics

Plastic soft drinkbottles recycledinto apparel

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p nn ng ers n oYarns

Spinning draws,twists, and windsstaple, filament, orblends of both fibers

into long, cohesivestrands or yarns

Yarns wound ontobobbins or spools

Twist may vary,creating differentyarn properties

Early 18th centuryspinning wheel

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Yarn Terminology

Yarn blends Combining two or more

fibers into a spun yarn

Combination yarns

Contain two or moreplys of different fibers

Textured yarns

Changing the surface ofa yarn using chemicals,heat, or machinery

Texturing gives bulk,stretch, softness, andwrinkle-resistance to

yarns.

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Do You Know . . .

The American YarnSpinners Association

deals with thegovernment on yarn-industry issues suchas trade laws,

customs regulations,packaging, labeling,and productstandards.