HARPER’S BAZAAR DECEMBER 2011 228 With the Christmas release of the stunning new photography book Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier , an incredible collaboration reveals itself. I n his prosaic foreword, the iconic American artist Jeff Koons calls the book the perfect marriage of haute couture and photography. He says, “Both art forms explore layers, one exposes or hides from the world. With couture, the flesh is not the Culture, music, art and theatre – with a spritz of design and cuisine – the month’s tasting platter for the finer senses. H ot LIST How did this book come about? PATRICK DEMARCHELIER: I was working for Vanity Fair, doing a fashion series on Dior Haute Couture. It was the first time I had discovered the ateliers. I was fascinated by the seamstresses, who are all so incredibly skilled. It made me want to represent the life of Dior Haute Couture, revive it and show it from past to present. e House of Dior did everything to make this project possible, and mobilised all its resources. I’d say it came through a joint resolve. How long did it take you to complete the project? PD: About a year and a half. It was a long assignment, following the collections and discovering treasures in the Dior archives that offer extraordinary variety. Did you feel you were compiling a retrospective? PD: I never thought of it in those interface to the external world; rather there is another layer between the body and the public. is begs the question, ‘What is it to be?’ calling to mind the mannequins of the surrealists Duchamp, Man Ray, and others who were investigating the very notion of reality. ese photographs of couture also investigate the very notion of femininity […] Patrick Demarchelier opens his eyes to everything, from the elaborate to the simple, to the powerful and the vulnerable. ere is an acceptance of everything in what it can be.” From the grand staircase of the Paris Opera House to the garden of the Musée Rodin – places that the House of Dior treasures – Patrick Demarchelier captures all that is quintessentially Dior, personified by the most beautiful women in the world. Here, BAZAAR gets an insight to the mind of the man himself: Patrick Demarchelier. THE HEART OF FASHION TALKING POINTS Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier Dior Haute Couture Spring/ Summer ’08 Dior Haute Couture Spring/ Summer 1948
Transcript
HARPER’S BAZAAR DECEMBER 2011228
With the Christmas release of the stunning new photography book Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier, an incredible collaboration reveals itself.
In his prosaic foreword, the iconic American artist Jeff Koons calls the book the perfect marriage of haute couture and photography. He says, “Both art forms explore layers, one exposes or hides from the world. With couture, the flesh is not the
Culture, music, art and theatre – with a spritz of design and cuisine – the month’s tasting platter for the finer senses.
HotLIST
How did this book come about?Patrick DemarcHelier: I was working for Vanity Fair, doing a fashion series on Dior Haute Couture. It was the first time I had discovered the ateliers. I was fascinated by the seamstresses, who are all so incredibly skilled. It made me want to represent the life of Dior Haute Couture, revive it and
show it from past to present. The House of Dior did everything to make this project possible, and mobilised all its resources. I’d say it came through a joint resolve. How long did it take you to complete the project?PD: About a year and a half. It was a long assignment, following the collections and discovering treasures in the Dior archives that offer extraordinary variety.Did you feel you were compiling a retrospective?PD: I never thought of it in those
interface to the external world; rather there is another layer between the body and the public. This begs the question, ‘What is it to be?’ calling to mind the mannequins of the surrealists Duchamp, Man Ray, and others who were investigating the very notion of reality. These photographs of couture also investigate the very notion of femininity […] Patrick Demarchelier opens his eyes to everything, from the elaborate to the simple, to the powerful and the vulnerable. There is an acceptance of everything in what it can be.” From the grand staircase of the Paris Opera House to the garden of the Musée Rodin – places that the House of Dior treasures – Patrick Demarchelier captures all
that is quintessentially Dior, personified by the most beautiful women in the world. Here, BAZAAR gets an insight to the mind of the man himself: Patrick Demarchelier.
the heart offasHion
talking points
Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier
Dior Haute couture spring/summer ’08
Dior Haute couture spring/summer 1948
HARPER’S BAZAAR DECEMBER 2011 229
terms. I was so happy to be shooting those photos; I thoroughly enjoyed it, and that’s what mattered. I never had the sense that I was working with old dresses either. Even the Christian Dior dresses dating back to the ’40s or ’50s – which are so beautiful and exquisitely made – are still modern. They’re totally up to date!How do you relate to couture?PD: When you’re a fashion photographer,
you can’t help but love haute couture. The dresses are so beautiful; the materials, the execution, the details, the precision, the staggering amount of work hidden behind all that beauty and perfection. Dior is one of the only couture houses in the world to have its ateliers in the heart of its premises, at 30 Avenue Montaigne. When you’re a fashion photographer, you have to inspire a dream. With Dior Haute Couture, the dream is already there! It’s art, it’s fabulous!for the new photos that you have taken, where did you start?PD: We started with the very colourful dresses that look like flowers, from the Haute Couture Autumn/Winter ’11 collection, which was shown in July 2010 in the gardens of the Musée Rodin, in Paris.What is your overall impression of this work and this book?PD: I’ve published many books before: I’ve done books on portraits, nudes, fashion, reportage, a whole host of things. But this one is a book with a very precise subject. I love it. I can’t wait to see it in bookstores. Dior Couture Patrick Demarchelier is available on www.amazon.com
Dior Haute couture autumn/Winter ’10
Dior Haute couture autumn/Winter ’05
carousel horse pendants, ted Baker
revive the carefree joy of fairground memories with a whimsical little carousel horse pendant from ted Baker. Isolde is plated in gold and has a reversible side cast in black enamel with multi-coloured crystals as an option because as we know, options are the key to fabulous. Ted Baker Jewellery is available at Ted Baker stores, Bangsar Village II, and Pavilion; Parkson KLCC; and Tangs Pavilion.
Japanese artist, activist and former wife of Beatles singer John Lennon, Yoko Ono has been awarded the illustrious Montblanc de la Culture Arts Patronage Award 2011. Announcing the award, Nick Waddington, CEO and president of Montblanc Japan, credited her charity work in impoverished areas of Africa and Asia through Dream Power concerts in Japan. She is in excellent company, previous winners of the award include literary theorist Susan Sontag and Jackie Chan. www.montblanc.com
HorsinG
NUMero oNo
PaIr It WIth a CrIsP WhIte
shIrt tUCked INto BlUe jeaNs for a WhIMsICal tWIst to hot
eqUestrIaN style.
aroUNd
Yoko ono
HARPER’S BAZAAR DECEMBER 2011230
talking points
Heading up the kitchen at Prego at The Westin’s Beijing financial district, Bigi’s mantra is food should always first be about pleasure. Specially
eggplant; its flavour further enlivened by the goat cheese topping. The saffron risotto with crispy seafood and red capsicum sauce, without question, shimmered with satisfying flavours; and the risotto was triumphant, glowing with a creamy richness, bringing a perfect balance to the succulent prawns.
Another stunner was the spaghetti with Maine lobster and fresh spring herb pesto. You could not help but relish the firm, delicate lobster meat that ruled this dish; the pasta, swaddled in a lush tomato-based sauce, taking on the rich, sweet flavour of the ocean. It was a menu that reflected Italian treasures from North to South, which required time so each dish could be leisurely savoured. Other pleasures on the menu included home-cured marinated beef tenderloin in a balsamic emulsion; Mediterranean seabass stew; prawns tortellini with basil and crushed black pepper fondue; and hazelnut crème brulee. No doubt, as a backdrop, Favola was gloriously beautiful; masquerading as an opulent Venetian villa with rich frescoes, bronze chandeliers and intimate private rooms. Open everyday except Saturday, from 12 to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to 11pm. For reservations, call 03-2263 7434.
ModernCLaSSICS
Meet Chef Fabrizio Bigi – a chef who does it his way, crafting
fresher versions of Italian staples.
flown in for the ‘Inspiring Italy’ fest at Favola Italian Restaurant, Le Meridien Kuala Lumpur, the guest chef crafted rich treats like swordfish carpaccio with Dijon fresco salad and mustard sprouts; and grain-fed beef tenderloin with mascarpone, eggplant ravioli and black truffle-whipped butter.
Bigi doesn’t play by the rules – he explores new perspectives, moving classic dishes in unfamiliar directions. For instance, goat cheese replaces the predictable parmesan. “Goat cheese lends a more mellow, delicate finish. It also gives a dish more texture,” he says. “Start with olive oil and finish up with butter.” Playful combinations of texture and flavour transform and revitalise classic dishes. His philosophy is “use the best ingredients and produce to engage in fast cooking.”
The eggplant mille-feuille with fresh goat cheese and basil had an exhilarating freshness to it. Imagine layers of luscious tomatoes encased in wafer-thin deep-fried
maine lobster and fresh spring herbs pesto spaghetti
roasted duet of turkey and duck, illido kl
X’Mas feastslet the culinary experts handle the pressures of the festive season for you. here are BAZAAR’s bright ideas on how to make your holiday more special.
cHristmas maDe easYWhy go through the hassle of days spent making a Christmas dinner with all the trimmings only to have your family gobble it up in minutes and then having to spend another hour or so cleaning up after them? At César’s at the Ritz-Carlton, KL, you can have the perfect Christmas feast – from traditional turkey and Christmas pudding to more exotic Italian asparagus risotto and Alaskan king crab complete with Laurent-Perrier Champagne. An added bonus? You can perhaps get a room if the bubbly gets the better of you. For reservations, call 03-2142 8000 or email [email protected]
WHen in romeDo as the Italians do and usher in the New Year with family, friends and a feast. With a scrumptious menu prepared specially by Executive Chef Andrea Zanella, Illido KL will host an earlier four-course meal, and a later, six-course meal for those who would rather welcome the new year in the more intimate setting of a restaurant. Its extensive selection of the finest New and Old World wines will satisfy the fussiest of connoisseurs, promising to leave no throat dry. What better way to ring in 2012? For reservations, call 03-2161 2291.
neW in toWnThe Westin Kuala Lumpur welcomes the very capable hands of Garth Welsh, as he joins its culinary team as the new director of kitchens. With a wealth of experience that has seen him work as executive chef of the Sheraton Full Moon Resort and Spa in the Maldives and under John Torode at Mezzo in London, Welsh is sure to scale new heights with The Westin and it all starts with great Christmas fare. For reservations, call 03-2731 8333.
Desserts at the ritz-carlton, kl
Garth Welsh
fabrizio Bigi
HARPER’S BAZAAR DECEMBER 2011 231
From the bespoke mosaic tiles and dozens of beautiful hanging lamps to the gorgeous pewter splashback at the grill station, Mosaic at the Mandarin Oriental is a true wonder in dining culture. Designed by the internationally-renowned Spin Design Studio from Japan, every minute detail is so thoroughly conceived and ever so well-appointed that one cannot help but be mesmerised before the real cause for being there is attended to. As a dining experience, Mosaic offers a veritable smörgåsbord of cuisines to choose from. From Japanese to Indian, to dim sum and a grill station that allows diners to choose their own cuts of meat, which are then cooked on the spot, Mosaic’s culinary offerings borders on exhaustive. The dessert bar alone has so sumptuous an array of sweet treats that one hardly knows where to begin. The verdict? A singular trip is scarcely sufficient if one intends to sample every last morsel that Mosaic has on offer. Mosaic at the Mandarin Oriental is open 24 hours daily. For reservations, call 03-21798881.
For the first time ever, The Cartier Time Art exhibition will be held outside the luxury brand’s birthplace in Switzerland. From December 14th to February 12th 2012, the Artscience Museum at Marina Bay Sands will showcase the largest collection of Cartier timepieces ever displayed in public. Among the 12 Cartier movements and 17 fine timepieces exhibited, Cartier will also be presenting the one-of-a-kind Cartier ID One concept watch designed by Tokujin Yoshioka – which will never require any adjustments throughout its lifecycle. www.cartier.com
No aVeraGe joeafter years “sleeping behind a desk” as an accountant, danish-born fritz storm decided to become a barista and learn the skill behind a perfect cup of coffee. he has since gone on to winning the World Barista Championship in 2002 and is now recognised as one of the leading names in coffee culture. In conjunction with the prestigious le Meridien hotels, storm has been travelling asia, running intense training and appreciation courses at their hotels. the barista cites a simple espresso as his favourite way of drinking a cup of
joe (he has about ten a day!); his wife loves cappuccino, while his
three-year-old daughter loves her macchiato.
head to any restaurant at le Meridien
kuala lumpur for coffee
done right.
CatChersdreaM
BAZAAR meets with two culinary stars who gave up corporate
climbing to live their passion.
Cake Bossflinging herself off the corporate ladder landed yin Wong in le Cordon Bleu, which then evolved into pastry-making. after years of job-hopping, she decided to indulge her passion in cakes and this blossomed into Pastry Union, an artisanal cake store that takes the meaning of cake to the a whole new level. yin’s most dangerous weapon in her arsenal is her senses. and her cakes are a feast for all five; one bite and she guarantees her ‘devil’ cake will send you right up to heaven. www.pastryunion.com
saVoir fare
yIN WoNG Uses ChoColate – her
faVoUrIte INGredIeNt – IN all her sIGNatUre Cakes.
BeWitcHeD!The wait is thankfully over, as the Wicked Witch of the West arrives on South East Asian shores. Set to open in Singapore at Marina Bay Sand’s Grand Theater on December 7, 2011 Wicked has been dubbed one of Broadway’s best musicals. With Aussies Suzie Mathers and Jemma Rix set to star as Glinda and Elphaba, the Asian premiere of Wicked will make you laugh, cry and think, promising to be an absolute whopper of a night out. If 35 major awards including a Grammy and three Tony Awards are anything to go by, it would be a sin to miss out on this spectacular production. Wicked is set to run for a strictly limited season, so don’t miss out. www.marinabaysands.com
haUte horoloGy
fritz storm
mosaic at mandarin oriental
Wicked
Pocket watch with minute repeater, cartier
rotonde de cartier astroregulator, cartier
mooo, Pastry Union
HARPER’S BAZAAR DECEMBER 2011232
Galeri Petronas will be showcasing the designs of Malaysian artists and fashion designers in its Irresistible Wear exhibition, which will be held until January 1, 2012. 48 artwear pieces designed specifically for the exhibition will take centrestage, reflecting the inextricable link between the worlds of art and fashion. As part of this exhibition, there will also be a workshop on the art of shibori, an ancient Japanese technique of dyeing cloth. www.galeripetronas.com.my
micHael BUBle – Christmas
Get into the festive mood with the dulcet tones of Canadian crooner Michael Bublé. As easy on the ear as he is on the eye, Bublé revises favourites such as ‘Jingle Bells’ and ‘Silent Night’ and duets with Shania Twain on ‘White Christmas’.
tHe Black keYs – El CaminoWith a band name inspired by the incoherent ramblings left on their answering machine, indie rock duo The Black Keys will release their seventh album. Influenced by The Clash, El Camino features a back-to-basics rock ’n’ roll sound that will have you wanting more.
WE nEED to talk about kEvinLed by the stellar Tilda Swinton, We Need To Talk About Kevin is a film about a mother whose sociopathic son goes on a high-school killing spree. Challenging and provocative, Tilda Swinton is magnificent as a mother who finds herself torn between love and loathing for her own child.
ExtrEmEly louD anD inCrEDibly ClosEOskar Schell is a nine-year-old vegan, pacifist, tambourine player, amateur inventor and astrophysicist whose life is thrown into turmoil when he loses his father in the tragedy of 9/11. When he stumbles
upon a key left by his father, he takes on the role of detective, wandering New York searching for the lock to the mysterious key.
P.D. James – DEath ComEs to PEmbErlEy (faBer & faBer)Any fan of Austen will rue the fact that she only had time enough to complete six
novels in her short life. As such, any fan should appreciate a sequel of sorts, especially when it continues Elizabeth Bennet and Mr. Darcy’s love story. Set six years after their happy marriage, Death Comes to Pemberley fuses Old World drama with a detective story.
alexanDer mccall smitH – thE ForgottEn aFFairs oF youth: an isabEl DalhousiE novEl (little BroWn)The latest instalment of the series will see the indomitable Isabel Dalhousie juggle her many home affairs with the task of helping a visiting Australian philosopher find her biological father. In typical McCall Smith style, reading this novel is a purely pleasurable experience, that will also pose the bigger question of what it means to be family.
lIt loVin’
NeW sChoolContemporary film meets Malaysian fashion & art this
![Harper's Bazaar Mexico [Febrero][2011][Sfrd]](https://static.documents.pub/doc/80x56/563db963550346aa9a9cd969/harpers-bazaar-mexico-febrero2011sfrd.jpg)
![Untitled-4 [hellerbooks.com]hellerbooks.com/pdfs/dialogues_hoefler.pdftypeface designs for Rolling Stone, Harper's Bazaar, the New York Times Magazine, Sports Illustrated, and Condé](https://static.documents.pub/doc/80x56/60022beebb0def256e63c230/untitled-4-typeface-designs-for-rolling-stone-harpers-bazaar-the-new-york.jpg)
