History OF LAHOUL SPITI Origin of the Name of the District History of District as an Administrative Unit Lahaul & Spiti is a big district having international boundary with Tibet. It attained the status of a district in the year 1960. Till then it was merely a tehsil of Kullu Sub-division. The valleys. mountains, glaciers, rivers, forests, pastures, gompas (monastries) and ancient buildings of the former ruling dynasty are the principal objects of study. The rugged awe-inspiring snow clad mountains are standing invitation to the hikers, mountaineers and adventurers. The entire district is full of natural scenery exorting the tourists and visitors to explore and imbibe its hidden grandeur. The customs, myths, beliefs and conventions of the simple unsophisticated people are the unique features of this border highland. Every village or a hamlet has a prayer flag fluttering over the Buddhist monastery. These shrines are the centers of the cultural life of the people that have influenced their religious beliefs for centuries and round which their social life revolves. Origin of the Name of the District Lahaul & Spiti, which now form, a district of Himachal Pradesh, bordering Tibet, were at one time separate Himalayan waziries or cantons of the Kullu sub- divisions, and Kullu itself formed a part of Kangra district of Punjab. As is clear from the name ‘Lahaul & Spiti’, the district comprises two different mountains tracts, one known as Lahaul and the other as Spiti. Hence the name of the district came into being with the formation of these two parts into a revenue district. The names, Lahaul & Spiti, have different origins. Hiuen Tsiang stated Lahaul to be 1800 or 1900 li (575 or 610 Km) distant by road
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History OF LAHOUL SPITI
Origin of the Name of the District History of District as an Administrative UnitLahaul & Spiti is a big district having international boundary with Tibet. It attained the status of a district in the year 1960. Till then it was merely a tehsil of Kullu Sub-division. The valleys. mountains, glaciers, rivers, forests, pastures, gompas (monastries) and ancient buildings of the former ruling dynasty are the principal objects of study.
The rugged awe-inspiring snow clad mountains are standing invitation to the hikers, mountaineers and adventurers. The entire district is full of natural scenery exorting the tourists and visitors to explore and imbibe its hidden grandeur. The customs, myths, beliefs and conventions of the simple unsophisticated people are the unique features of this border highland. Every village or a hamlet has a prayer flag fluttering over the Buddhist monastery. These shrines are the centers of the cultural life of the people that have influenced their religious beliefs for centuries and round which their social life revolves.
Origin of the Name of the DistrictLahaul & Spiti, which now form, a district of Himachal Pradesh, bordering Tibet, were at one time separate Himalayan waziries or cantons of the Kullu sub-divisions, and Kullu itself formed a part of Kangra district of Punjab.
As is clear from the name ‘Lahaul & Spiti’, the district comprises two different mountains tracts, one known as Lahaul and the other as Spiti. Hence the name of the district came into being with the formation of these two parts into a revenue district. The names, Lahaul & Spiti, have different origins.
Hiuen Tsiang stated Lahaul to be 1800 or 1900 li (575 or 610 Km) distant by road from the middle of Kiu-lu-to (Kulu). It is a gross overestimate as the first village in Lahaul is only about 70 kms from Sultanpur. Despite this error, whatever its source may be, Lahaul is clearly the country referred to here. But the Tibetan Li-yul has also ben identified by Rockhill with Khotan. If this is correct Hiuen Tsiang's placing Lo-u-lo at 1800 or 1900 li north of Kulu might be intelligible though an under-estimate. Probably Hiuen Tsiang confused the two countries as Li-yul (Khotan) and Lo-u-lo (Lahaul) in his estimate of distances, admittedly derived from hearsay.
In ancient Buddhist scripures, 'Padma thangyiang' and 'Mam-kambum' there is mention of a country named Khasa or Hasha to the south of Ladakh and Zangskar. It is possible also that 'Garzha' may be corruption of Khasa or Hasha. Between the 6th century B.C. and the 5th century A.D., the Saka and Khasa tribes, after having been driven out from Central Asia by the Huns, crossed over into India. many of these settled down in the valleys of Mid-Himalayas between Garhwal and Ladakh. This is borne out by the numerous remains of their graves found in these valleys. There is a nullah near Keylong known as Shaks, which seems to have
taken its name after the Saka tribe settled in the Bhaga valley.
The Histroy of the District as an Administrative UnitThe two units of the district i.e. Lahaul & Spiti, have separate historical backgrounds. In the distant past Lahaul had been changing hands between the rulers of Ladakh and Kulu. In the second half of the seventeenth century with the disintegration of Ladakh kingdom, Lahaul passed into the hands of the Kulu chief. In 1840, Maharaja Ranjit Singh took over Lahaul along with Kulu and ruled over it till 1846 when the area came under the sway of the British. From 1846 to 1940, Lahaul formed part of the Kulu sub-division of Kangra district and was administered through the local jagirdars/thakurs. One of the thakurs was designated as Wizier of Lahaul & was invested with judicial and executive powers. Another thakur was given the powers of a Revenue Officer. These functionaries exercised traditional as well as other power conferred by the Government. The Assistant Commissioner. Kulu used to visit the area once a year for a month or so. In the late thirties the unprecedented prosperity of the people through growing kuth and their consequent awakening created a formidable challenge to the power and influence of the Wizier of Lahaul, which gradually started declining. The inadequacy was soon noticed by the Government which considered the extension of the regular system of administration. Accordingly in 1941, a separate sub-tehsil comprising Lahaul & Spiti was formed and a naib-tehsildar was posted at Keylong thereby divesting the thakurs of their powers. The system remained in vogue till June, 1960 when Lahaul & Spiti district came into being. Simultaneously, Lahaul was constituted into a separate tehsil, and, later on it was formed into a sub-division.
The East India Company took over the possession of the Spiti portion in the year 1846 after the cessation of cis-Satluj States as a result of the Anglo-Sikh War. Before that it formed a part of Ladakh, a subsidiary of Jammu & Kashmir. Because of its remoteness and poverty of natural resources, the British following the example of the Ladakhi rulers, did not introduce any substantial changes in the administrative set up of the territory. The Nono of Kyuling was recognized as the hereditary Wizier of Spiti (re-affirmed by the Spiti Frontier Regulations of 1883) and was suppose to represent the British India Government. He collected the land revenue for the Government, his judicial jurisdiction included trial of all criminal cases, except cases of murder; and he performed all functions and enjoyed all necessary powers for the fulfillment of his tasks and duties, as laid down in the regulations of 1883.
In 1941, Spiti,with Lahaul, was constituted into a separate sub-tehsil of Kullu sub-division which had its headquarters at Keylong. Later on, after the formation of Lahaul & Spiti into a district, in 1960, Spiti was formed into a sub-division with its headquarter at Kaza.
1. Tandi (Lahaul) 105 Km away from Manali on Manali-Keylong-Leh highway.
2. Kaza (Spiti) 421 Km away from Shimla.
Access
Access to Lahaul & Spiti district by road can be made from two different locations one is Sumdo through (Kinnaur District) for entry into Spiti valley and another is through Manali (Kullu District) for entry into Lahaul valley. The nearest airport is Bhutar Airport (Kullu) & nearest railheads are Jogindernagar, Shimla & Chandigarh.
Blue Line (Route from Shimla to Kaza [Spiti Block])412 Kms (About 20 Hours journey excluding one night halt)This road is almost all weather road upto Kaza.
Red Line (Route from Shimla to Keylong [Lahaul Block])375 Kms (About 18 Hours journey)This road closes during winters for more than 6 months due to closure of Rohtang Pass.
Green Line (Route from Keylong to Kaza i.e. Lahaul block to Spiti block)
185 Kms (About 6 Hours journey)This road closes during winters for more than 9 months due to closure of Kunzam Pass & heavy snowfall w.e.f. Oct/Nov-June/July.
Important Destinations & DistancesShimla-Rampur-Sumdo(Kinnaur)-Kaza (412 km)
The Northern Route from Kaza to Manali (total 209 km)Chandigarh-Mandi-Kullu-Manali (334 km)Tandi-Thirot-Udaipur-Rohli-Killar (124 km)
Manali-Leh Road (473 km)
IMPORTANT DESTINATIONS & DISTANCESFrom Delhi to Lahaul valley
The valley of Lahoul is situated to the south of Ladakh. For this very reason this place derived its name “Lho-Yul” meaning "Southern Country". To its south is situated the beautiful valley of Kullu across the Rohtang Pass (3195Mtrs) and the Bara Bangahal (Kangra) across the “Asakh” pass (5051Mtrs) . Its western boundaries touch the Pangi and Churah areas of Distt. Chamba. To its north situated the valleys of Zanskar and Ladakh across Shingola (5090 Mtrs) and Baralacha la (5450 Mtrs) respectively. Its eastern and south eastern boundaries coincide with those of Spiti and Western Tibet across the Kunzom Pass (4500 Mtrs).
Area & Popoulation :
As per census 2001, the area of Lahaul & Spiti District is 13,835 Sq. Kms. and population is 33,224. The density of population is 2 persons per sq. Km against the figure of 93 persons for the whole state and sex ratio is 804 females per 1000 males. There is no town in the district and entire population is rural.No. of villages = 521 (Inhabited =265, Uninhabited =256). No of Panachayats = 41 (Lahaul =20, Udaipur=8, Spiti=13)Panchayat Samittis = 2 (One in Lahaul and One in Spiti )
Approach :
Approach To Lahaul Valley: Upto Kullu by air (Bhunter Airport) or road then proceed to Manali from where one can easily reach Keylong the Headquarter town of Lahoul valley through Rohtang Pass by Bus/ Jeep. Its a 115 Km journey from Manali which takes 6 hours. Although one can opt for other approaches such as Shimla- Reckong Peo- Kaza – Kunzom – Keylong. Leh- Tanglangla – Baralacha la – Keylong. Approach To Spiti Valley: Spiti is linked via the Sutlej valley of Kinnaur with motorable road. Upto Shimla by air, rail or road. By road from Shimla to Kaza (The headquarter of Spiti division) the distance is 412 kms. This is via Narkanda,
Rampur, Jeori, Wangtu, Karcham, Powari, Jangi, Puh.Due to closure of Rohtang Pass the road to Lahaul valley remains closed from Nov to May every year and due to closure of Kunzam Pass the road from Lahaul valley to Spiti i.e. Koksar-Batal-Kaza remains closed from Nov to June, however the road to Spiti valley from Kinnaur is almost all-weather road.
Since the valley is situated in rain shadow area, north of the Pir Panjal ranges the weather remains pleasant and quite comfortable during summers i.e. from May to mid Oct. This is the best season to visit this valley. It seldom rains, and the Mercury level does not exceed 300c and never falls below 150 c through out the period mentioned above. One can always enjoy bright sunshine wandering within lush green valley. There is little or no rain in monsoons. The climate remains dry & invigorating. The days are hot and night are extremely cold. Heavy/Light woolens are recommended.During winter, i.e. from Nov. last to April because of western disturbances it snows heavily and the temp. goes down below minus. There is an average annual snow fall of about 7 feet.
Best Time to Visit :
The best time to visit Lahaul & Spiti is during summer i.e. from May to mid October, since the district is snowbound area and Lahaul valley remain isolated from rest of the world from October-May due to closure of the Rohtang Pass. Although Spiti is an almost all-weather place.
Food habits:
The peoples of Lahaul & Spiti have three meals a day-Ken or tshema in the morning, Shod or chicken in the noon and yangskin or Gongal at night. Their staple food is buckwheat locally known as Kathu. Barley, Wheat and Rice also consumed. Besides they consume a lot of lugri or tsagti, chhang (beer) and salted tea mixed with butter. Arak ( Local distilled liquor) is also taken occasionally. Smoking of Tobacco is very common among the aged people, but is forbidden for the ladies.
Petrol Pumps :
In district Lahaul & Spiti there are only two petrol pumps one at Tandi (Lahaul valley) which is 105 Km away from Manali and second in Kaza (Spiti valley) which is 421 Km away from Shimla. In Lahaul valley after Tandi another petrol pump is situated at Leh (J & K) which is 368 Km away from Tandi.
Museums/Art Galleries, Forts :
KEYLONG MUSUEM : A museum of Tribal Art along with an auditorium is being established at Keylong, the building is under construction and will be completed in about a couple of years. The museum apart from archaeological finds will display Thanka Painting, objects of everyday use as they existed before the achievement of modern mechanised equipments in the District. The museum will also display manuscripts in Bhoti Scripts and Tankri documents. The auditorium will host dramas depicting lifestyle of Lahaul, Spiti and Chamba- Lahaul areas which constitute culturally three separate identities. At Kyuling (Spiti) the sect of the nono of Spiti ( the ruling Wazir of Spiti area under the nominal British control before Independence) have also established a small museum of artefacts.
It is located in the Pin valley of Spiti at height of 12,000 m above sea level. It is home to endangered species like Snow leopard, the endemic Himalayan Ibex, the mighty Bharal or Blue Sheep and Lynx.
Police Assistance:
To ensure safety and security of the tourists, and to guide them about the terrain, routes, weather etc kindly contact police station located in the district at following areas:Police Station, Keylong Tel: 01900-222223Police Station, Udaipur Tel: 01909-222210Police Station, Kaza Tel: 01906-222253For more information on Himachal Pradesh Police, please visit http://hppolice.nic.in.And about Inner Line Permit for foreigners visit foreigner section.
Medical Assistance:
To provide the medical facilities in the district, Civil Hospital is located at district headquarter Keylong. The contact number of OPD is 01900-222255 and of emergency is 01900-222211. The hospital provides all types of medicines to the patients. The Community Health Centres are located at Udaipur, Shansha, Kaza and Primary Health Centres are located at Sissu, Gondhla, Gemur, Tholong, Jhalman, Thirot, Tingret, Tabo, Sagnam and Civil Dispensaries are located at Darcha, Phura, Kibber, Lossar, Hansa.
Besides these Auyurvedic Hospital, Tibetan Dispensary & Veterinary Hospital are also located at Keylong
On the north of Himachal, Jammu & Kashmir lies, whreas on the east Punjab, east southern Haryana, Uttar Pradesh & UT Chandigarh, on west side newly state Uttranchal and border of China exist.
Position of District Lahaul & Spiti in Himachal Pradesh
Himachal comprises of 12 districts in total, covering the area of 55,673 sq km. Its total population is 6,077,248 as per 2001 census. The valley of Lahoul is situated to the south of Ladakh. For this very reason this place derived its name “Lho-Yul” meaning "Southern Country". To its south is situated the beautiful valley of Kullu across the Rohtang Pass (3195Mtrs) and the Bara Bangahal (Kangra) across the “Asakh” pass (5051Mtrs) . Its western boundaries touch the Pangi and Churah areas of Distt. Chamba. To its north situated the valleys of Zanskar and Ladakh across Shingola (5090 Mtrs) and Baralacha la (5450 Mtrs) respectively. Its eastern and south eastern boundaries coincide with those of Spiti and Western Tibet across the Kunzom Pass (4500 Mtrs). The population of L&S is 33,224 as per 2001 census with a poulation density of 2 per sq km.
The Lahaul & Spiti district is a unique socio-physical unit of Himachal Pradesh. Its two components, the sub-divisions of Lahaul & Spiti, are in turn equally distinct from each other in several respects. Lahaul constitutes the western and physically more accessible area of the district.Separated by high mountains ranges from Jammu & Kashmir territory on the north, Kullu and Bara Banghal on the south, Spiti on the east and Chamba on the west, Lahaul is a physically closed unit. In its west, however, the Chenab river forces its way by a narrow valley, while in the north-east the Yunan river flows into a Zangskar.
LAHAUL SPITI
Access to Lahaul & Spiti
Access to Lahaul & Spiti district by road can be made from two different locations one is through Sumdo (Kinnaur District) for entry into Spiti valley and another is through Manali (Kullu District) for entry into Lahaul valley. In between the Lahaul valley & Spiti valley the both are connected with road but road is opened only for few months (mid June to mid Oct).
Manali-Leh (via Rohtang Pass-Keylong-Sarchu-Pang-Tanglang La-Upshi) 475 km
Monasteries in HP
E-GovernanceLahaul & Spiti is a tribal district which is virtually cut from the rest of the world for more than 6 months in a year. Normal vehicular traffic is open between June and November only. The only presence in Information Technology has been the lone District Centre of National Informatics Centre, Ministry of Communication & Information Technology. The District Centre was established in the year 1988 at Deputy Commissioner office, Keylong. However, this Centre remained non-functional for many years after 1995 due to man-power shortage. In the year 2001, a District Informatics Associate was posted and the NIC has, with the active involvement of the District Administration, initiated IT activities in this remote district of India. The district website of the Lahaul & Spiti was the first step in this direction in the year 2001.
Today as a result of NIC's efforts, more and more departments are undertaking large computerisation projects for integrating micro-level data, originating in their field offices. These include the Welfare Pension MIS (District Welfare Office), Land Record Computerisation, Registration of Land Deeds & Driving Licenses (Tehsil office), Payroll (IPH, SP Office, District Agriculture Office), CRISP (DRDA), Annual Tribal Sub-Plan (ITDP), PMGSY (PWD) and various District Development Monitoring Projects (Grievances Disposal System, Budget Planning) at District Collectorate Office at Keylong.
NIC District Centre Keylong Entrance during Winters
In the winter season, this district is cut off from rest of the world for about six months from Oct/Nov to May/June due to closure of Rohtang Pass and the communication facilities are also badly affected. Even the telephone systems don't work properly and Internet is not accessible over dial-up. The principal role played by NIC, besides changing the work culture and making the administration more effective at all levels, is in nature of demolishing barriers on information dissemination and in making the working of the Government more transparent to the public as well in making the information more readily available from one Department to another, from the State Government to the Central Government and vice versa. In the year 2002, a VSAT/IPA was installed at Keylong by using of which the availablility of information, accuratley and on a timely basis has given a new dimension to the district administration. NIC is proud that it has made all this possible. As the major problem of this district is the bad communication channels between Lahaul valley & Spiti valley, therefore to remove this communication barrier matter is taken up with MIT to establish the another VSAT at Kaza in Spiti valley so that a fast & reliable communication netwok between Lahaul block & Spiti block can be established. So that the atleast virtual isolation of the people and officials of district can be removed.
HardwareSoftware
Technical WingTrainings
NICNETNew Initiatives
HARDWARE
Pentium (P-III & P-IV) Clients Windows 2000 based7
Web Camera 1CD Writer (External & Internal) 2Remote Access Server 1VSAT-IPA 1UPS 2 KVA 2Laminator 1
SOFTWARE
Standard Office Automation Software: These software are made available at the NIC Centre in the Local Area Network for carrying out routine office automation activities e.g. Word Processing, Electronics Spreadsheet, Electronic Mailing (E-mail) etc. Presently at NIC Centre, Keylong any official who don't have computer in his office he/she can come to the centre & can use these services.
Customized Office Automation Software: These are the software developed by NIC H.P. State Unit and District Units for specific type of office automation activities common to all the Departments e.g. Payroll Processing, Telephone Directory, References Monitoring System, Personnel Information System, Expenditure Monitoring System etc. Under this we have computerised the payroll process of DC Office, SP office, IPH, Animal Husbandry deptt. Also maintains telephone directory of district. Also developed the Grievances Monitoring System to early disposal the grievances received from the public.
Department Specific Software:These include Studying, Designing, Developing necessary Software and Implementing the computerised Management Information Systems for various Government Departments, as per the requirement of Database building for Planning, Controlling, Monitoring and/or Decision Support purposes. These exercises are taken-up as Projects by NIC, which may be sub-categorized further, as follows:
1. Land Record Computerisation: Land Record Management Information System has been implemented in the district, the data entry process of Jamabandi of Lahaul tehsil is going on. After completion of the data entry work the mutation part will be started at tehsil level.
2. Driving License Computerisation: This is the major project launched in the district with the active support of Sh Subhasish Panda, IAS, Deputy Commissioner, Lahaul & Spiti. The software has been procured from the NIC headquarter. This is the first initiative under E-Governance and shortly other services like Vehicle Registration, Registration of Land Deeds & Arms License will be started.
3. Welfare Pension Computerisation:After computerisation of records of Welfare Pensioners it has become very easy to issue the money orders to the pensioners.
4. Payroll Computerisation:Here at Keylong many offices have their own computers & printers but they were not fully utilising them, to make the use of these hardware different officials get trained to cumputerised the Payroll of their employees. Under this SP office, IPH office, Animal Husbandry office covered. Whereas the payroll of deputy commissioner office & SK branch already computerised.
5. Grievances Monitoring System:To early disposal of the public grievances a locally developed Grievances Monitoring System implemented.
6. District Telephone Directory: A online telephone directory developed for the reference of the local connected officials with the
LAN and hard copy also maintained & available at NIC centre Keylong.7. Budget Planning:
For the budget planning for the propsed & expenditure system developed and implemented at Deputy Commissioner office.
8. Tourism Promotion:Lahaul & Spiti district is a great tourist destination for its exotic landscape beauty of himalays. To promote it further tourist brochure has been developed and distributed to the hotels & displayed in the circuit houses, rest houses & DC office. The downloadable version of same brochure made available to the tourists in the district website.
9. Web Development & Maintenance:NIC Keylong has considerable expertise of dynamic web deployment of any content. A comprehensive website (http://hplahaulspiti.nic.in) developed & being maintained is a live example.
NICNET INFO SUPERHIGHWAY
NIC has successfully operated its satellite-based computer-communication network, NICNET. The District Centre Keylong also get connected with this country wide network on July'2002, when VSAT/IP-A was installed here. Further a local area network was established to provide the Internet & E-Mail Services to the Govt Departments. The info superhighway is providing complete connectivity with very high reliability as this is the only reliable communication media over here.
NEW INITIATIVES
Removal of Communication Gap Between Lahaul block & Spiti block:
Lahaul & Spiti the tribal & snowbound district of Himachal Pradesh has traditionally been less developed due to its remoteness & peculiar geographical hilly terrain. A strong communication infrastructure is lacking. Information Technology (IT) has consistently catalysed socio-economic development. It was envisaged by the government that extending the reach of the IT revolution to this region would give a boost to all-round development. In particular, satellite based communication overcomes the challenge of terrain & geographic remoteness. To combat these challanges the NIC centre was established at Keylong in 1988 and the VSAT\IPA was installed here in the year 2002. Due to the larger geographical area & heavy snowfall in winters the Lahaul block & Spiti block virtually cut off from each other for more than 8 months, which is the major hurdle in the development progress of the district. For the speedy action & efficient administration following network is supposed to be implemented in this whole area:
As shown in the above map the two physically isolated by hilly terrain blocks they can be joined through satellite computer network. As already one VSAT/IPA has been installed in the NIC DIC Keylong (Lahaul block) in July 2002 there is a urgent need of similar VSAT/IPA at tehsil Kaza the headquarter of Spiti block so that both block can be accessible through computers. Then further through these VSATs the email services should provided to the rest of the inaccessible parts of the valley separately. The matter is already taken up with MIT to establish another VSAT\IPA at Kaza to remove this communication barrier.
TRAININGS
At NIC, training is considered the most important single component for introducing new technologies, and for bringing about cultural and attitudinal changes in the functioning of the Government. From awareness creation of senior officials to the routine operational training of the staff at the working level. At Keylong time to time free of charge Computer Awareness programmes are offered to Government Officials.GIST technology based Hindi programmes are offered to Government officials to promote use of computers in Hindi. At the Executive level to give them the exosure of new technologies in the areas of Communications, Networking, Multimedia, CAD/CAM, Client Server computing, Object Oriented, Databases workshops and seminars organised.
TECHNICAL CONSULTANCY
NIC Centre Keylong is providing its technical consultancy to the Govt Departments situated in or outside Keylong in working out the hardware/software requirements for their computerisation activities, and preparing detailed proposals thereof etc. Assist the top level management by using of IT in their decision making, monitoring, analysis etc.
Technical Wing
Mohan Rakesh Aggarwal, DIA & I/C DIC KeylongDeputy Commissioner Office, District Lahaul & Spiti, Keylong-175132Tel: 91-01900-222759, email: [email protected]
SINGLE LINE ADMINISTRATIONThe chief administrative authority within the district vests in the Deputy Commissioner, who more due to single line administration is not only District Magistrate and Collector but for all intents and purposes is also the head of all the district level offices. In addition to the usual and traditional role as Deputy Commissioner he has multifarious duties. As Deputy Commissioner, he is the executive head of the District looking after
development, Panchayats, local bodies and civil administration. As District Magistrate, he is responsible for the maintenance of law and order and is the head of Police and prosecuting agency in the district. As Collector he is at the apex of the revenue administration and is responsible for the collection of land-revenue and all dues recoverable as arrears of land-revenue. He is also revenue-applause authority. He ensures the successful execution of plan-schemes and co-ordinates the functions of all development departments and in fact due to the peculiar circumstances and situation of the area his functions are largely those of a Development Officer. In order to avoid procedural delays and in the interest of early disposal of work, he has been given special and enhanced powers. He has been declared Head of Department for all offices functioning in the district.
In addition to the above the Deputy Commissioner has been invested with so many other administrative and financial powers. He can effect transfers of non-gazetted staff within the district in respect of staff of all the departments. The Deputy Commissioner is also the disciplinary authority and is competent to take disciplinary action in matters concerning non-gazetted staff posted in the district. He can order any punishment, short of dismissal and removal from service. This arrangement has been made to ensure smooth working in the area because of its remoteness.
The concentration of powers in the Deputy Commissioner is primarily to ensure the speedy disposal of work and execution of development schemes. These arrangements have worked very well. The people, who were hitherto unused to the immediate presence of a high powered executive and were, therefore initially apprehensive, that the induction of such an elaborate administrative machinery might mean a certain curtailment of their idyllic freedom, are now convinced that from small waziris to a sub-tehsil and then to a ful-fledged district, the change has been all along for the better.
There are two tehsils and two sub-divisions in the district namely Lahul and Spiti which are coterminous. The Deputy Commissioner in the district is assisted by the usual compliment of ministerial and executive staff. Three Sub-Divisional Officers (Civil) each posted at Keylong, Udaipur and Kaza are invested with powers of Sub-Divisional Magistrate and Collector. The two Tehsildars posted in Keylong tehsil & Kaza tehsil have the powers of the Executive Magistrate and Assistant Collectors 1st grade. They have to assist the Sub-Divisional Officers both in Magisterial and in revenue work. Tehsildars in turn are assisted in-the revenue work by the field revenue staff.
The following district level officers are the incharge of their respective departments, and work under the supervision and direction of the Deputy Commissioner.
Department Designation Headquarters
Police Superintendent Of Police Keylong
Medical Chief Medical Officer Keylong
Forest Divisional Forest Officer Keylong
Development Block Development Officer One each at Keylong & Kaza
Project Officer, ITDP One each at Keylong & Kaza
Project Officer, DRDA One each at Keylong & Kaza
Panchayat District Panchayat Officer Keylong
Education Dy Director Education Keylong
Public Relations District Public Relations Officer Keylong
Public Works Executive Engineer Keylong
Industries General Manager, District Industries Corpn Keylong
Veterinary Assistant Director Keylong
Co-operation Assistant Registrar Keylong
Irrigation & Public Health Executive Engineer Keylong
Agriculture District Agriculture Officer Keylong
Horticulture District Horticulture Officer Keylong
INNOVATIVE PROJECTSInspite of limited working season and harsh weather conditions, three innovative projects have been selected and work is being going on. The detail of these Projects are as follows:
Snow Harvesting Proiect at Sumnam in Gram Panchayat Tandi : Since, glaciers have been receding fast in the recent past and the snow line is going up, therefore the only alternative left is to harvest Snow. It is in view of this that a new Project called "Snow Harvesting Project" is being started at Sumnam in Tandi area of Lahaul block.
Igloo Type House at Rohtang :Rohtang Pass remains closed for most part of the year. Therefore, the only alternative to cross it is through air service (Helicopter). Even in the month of March & April, crossing Rohtang Pass is very dangerous. Since from Marhi to Koksar is involved a long walk. There is no place for rest and stay on the way. It is in this regard that Igloo type houses are being proposed to be constructed at Harchu galu. PWD (Lahaul) has been allocated funds and instructed to start the construction work, at the earliest
Shivak Thorn, Project at Kukumseri :Shivak thom is a herb which produces small seeds (called sarala locally). It is used in medicine, jam and pickle preparation. A Russian variety has been introduced which has shown better results. The introduction and production of especially foreign varieties of Shivak thorn on commercial basis, will bring in extra income to the valley (Lahaul). Waterpond above every village:To recharge water sources, to provide drinking water for wild animals, to enhance soil moisture. Introduction of Aromatic and Medicinal Plants:Sapling of Himrose, lavendor and lavendine already procured from IHBT Palampur.
MAJOR EVENTSHeavy Snowfall in July 1993There was unprecedented rains/ snowfall from 9.07.1993 to 23.07.1993 in Lahaul Spiti. Due to heavy rains there was a loss/ damage to properties amounting to Rs. 5.00 crores. There is no record of snow fall occuring during July in the past. During the period about 40cms, of snowfall was recorded. The snowfall damaged hops, peas, wheat, and barley crops. Apart from above 8285 sheep/ goats and 61 horses/ pones were reported to have perished due to snowfall and extreme cold. It is reported that 325 tourists including 64 foreign tourists were stranded along with 49 vehicles of all types at Baralacha pass due to landslides and heavy snowfall. The stranded people remain stranded at Baralacha from 9th to 13th July 1993. Due to continuous snow & rains, dilapidated condition of roads, movement of vehicles was not possible. Efforts were made to locate the exact position of stranded people, but due to snow fall, falling of boulders and damaged Manali Leh road, exact position could not be ascertained. So call was sent to govt. requesting for air dropping of food and clothing at Baralacha area. Rescue parties consisting of civilians, youth clubs, panchayat
members, ITBP and SSB Jawans, Army personnel with doctors proceeded to Baralacha with food packets, medicines and blankets etc. On 14th July 1993, Helicopter dropped fresh cooked food, blankets and medicines in that area in two sorties from Bhunter. Timely dropping of food and medicines in that area saved people from starvation and enabled them to walk down on foot. Since it was not possible to cross Rohtang pass even on foot, 500 tourists including 82 foreign tourists were accommodated in a small place, namely Koksar where food and clothing as well as medicines were provided to all persons. The villagers of Koksar accommodated maximum people in the village and provided them shelter and food from 10th to 17th July, An Air force helicopter lifted 18 persons including 6 foreigners from Koksar to Bhunter while the others left for Manali by HRTC buses and their own vehicles on 23.07.1993.
Heavy Rainfall in September 1995Lahaul Spiti District was severely gripped by natural calamity in September, 1995 due to heavy rains great devastation of govt. and private property, public utilities services, roads and bridges etc.was reported. About 300 tourists including foreigners, children and ladies were stranded between Baralacha and Sarchu and road communication was completely snapped. District Administration immediately arranged for the helicopter and organised rescue operations. Stranded foreigners and tourists were air lifted. Blankets and food packets were dropped to save people from starvation. 22 persons died and an amount of Rs. 475000/- was given as relief to legal heirs of the deceased persons. Besides, 2860 heads of cattle/ goats/ sheep/ cows and horses perished and relief money amounting to Rs.3,84,050/- was given to the deprived. Kalchakra Ceremony 1994 & 2000Kalchakar- Mahavhishek were organised at Jispa in Lahaul and Key in Spiti during the year 1994
and 2000 in which thousands of devotees and tourists gathered and H.H. The Dalai Lama delivered religious sermon.
A Millennium celebration was held at Tabo (in Spiti) on the eve of completion of one thousand years of Tabo Monastery known as Ajanta of Himalayas in which thousands of devotees attended. Kalchakra ceremony was held on this occasion and H.H. The Dalai Lama delivered religious sermon.
PM Visit 2000The Hon’ble Prime Minister of India Sh. Atal Vihari Bajpai Ji visited Keylong in the month of June,2000. While addressing large gathering, Hon’ble Prime Minister announced the construction of a tunnel under Rohtang pass which remains closed due to heavy snowfall for 7-8 months in a year.
SHORT COMINGS AND PROBLEMSLimited working seasonSince the area remains snowbound and landlocked for almost 6 months i.e. from December to May, the working season for developmental activities is limited to 6 months only, resulting in delay in completion of works and higher costs of construction.
High Maintenance Cost of Roads and Irrigation ChannelsThe soil of this valley is loose and sandy and as such roads and irrigation channels get damaged even with slightest rain , melting of snow land slides, falling of boulders and avalanches. Thus the repairs of Kuhls and roads consume hefty sums of money and sometimes it costs more than that for new construction.
Marketing of HopsThere was no proper infrastructure for the marketing of Hops, which can become main cash crop in addition to potatoes & peas and can reap rich benefits to the farmers of the valley, but last year with the commissioning of Hops Palletting Plant at Baddi, the scenario has improved.
Disease in Willow PlantationThe willow trees in the valley are drying due to mysterious disease and improper irrigation facilities due to scanty snowfall in winters. The matter regarding the outbreak of this disease has been taken up with the Dr. Y.S Parmar University of Horticulture & Forestry, Solan, H.P and is providing necessary help to the people.
Non-availability of skilled and semi-skilled labourSince the involvement of local labour is quite negligible and almost all skilled and semi-skilled labours are imported from outside the Valley, the labour rate as applied to tribal areas is 25% above the normal rate prevailing in other areas. Material cost and transportation charges are higher than those in other areas of the Pradesh due to un-certain climatic conditions and difficult topography.
Expensive TransportationIn most cases, the schemes which are to be executed are situated at inhospitable altitudes and all the materials required for the execution are to be carried through manual labour. This also causes higher labour charges and consumes more time. Erratic Mail SystemErratic mail system in the Valley is the main impediment in proper implementation of developmental activities. It has been noticed that even an ordinary mail takes a month’s time to reach its destination. Sometimes the dak regarding allocation of budget is received when the financial year is already over. Therefore, the regular dak system is to be ensured.
MAP OF MONASTERIES IN HIMACHAL PRADESHin Lahaul Valley in Spiti Valley
Guru Ghantal Tabo
Kardang Dhankar
Shashur Kye
Tayul Tnagyud
Ghemur Kungri
Kibber
GURU GHANTALThis monastery is situated on a hill above the Tupchiling village at the confluence of the rivers Chandra and Bhaga. This gompa was founded by Padma Sambhava and is more than 800 years old. The peculiar feature of the gompa is the wooden idols as distinguished from the clay idols found in other monasteries. The Guru Ghantal white marble head was installed by its founder, but now the same is kept under lock and key for fear of theft. This monastery has idols of Guru Padma Sambhava, Brijeshwari Devi and several other lamas. On the 15th lunar day (mid June) a festival called Ghantal was celeberated at which the visiting lamas and Thakurs used to feast for one day. The festival is no longer celeberated.
There is one blackstone statue of a goddess identified as kali in the innermost chamber which gives credence to the theory that this was once a Hindu temple like the Trilokinath temple at Udaipur.
The wall paintings are in stone colours. Because of lack of care colours have washed away. There is lot of seepage in the monastery. Another reason for lack of care is that most of the valuables have been
transported to the Tupchiling gompa which is easily accessible and the caretaker also hails from this village only. The workmanship in the gompa is certainly superior to all other gompas.
SHA-SHUR
Sha-shur in the local parlance means in the blue pines. This is very apt as good patches of blue pine can still be seen around the monastery.
This gompa was founded in the 17th C. AD by Lama Deva Gyatsho of Zangskar who was a missionary of Nawang Namgyal, the king of Bhutan. The lamas of the gompa are of the Drugpa sect (red hat sect). Namgyal founded this sect and the name originated from Dug which in the Bhoti language means Bhutan. Before Deva Gyatsho renovated the present monastery, there existed a small gompa. Deva Gyatsho stayed at the monastery till his death. When he was being cremated, this is said, his heart did not burn and was enclosed in a black image of Gyatsho. A statue of Namgyal is also present in the gompa.
This gompa has the biggest Thanka paintings, over fifteen feet, and invalueable wall paintings depicting all the 84 siddhas of Buddhism. In the month of June/July Chham is performed in the monastery which is the most popular Chham in Lahaul.
KARDANG
Village Kardang which was once the capital of Lahaul has the most popular and the biggest monastery of the area. The monastery is situated on the left bank of the river Bhaga just above the village of Kardang. This was founded about 900 years ago and stood in ruins uptill 1912 when Lama Norbu of Kardang renovated it. This gompa is located against the backdrop of the bare mountains of the Rangcha massif which "rises above the valley like a giant cobra standing on its tail with hood outspread, ready to strike". The monastery is perched on a ridge below the 15000 feet high Rangcha peak. The valley is so placed that Kardang gets maximum sunshine in winters.
This monastery houses the largest number of lamas and chomos. The library of the gompa is one of the biggest containing full volumes of Kangyur and Tangyur. Since the monastery belongs to the Red Hat sect the regimen is not very strict. Nuns and monks enjoy equality. Lamas can marry and generally they stay with their families during summers to work in the fields. In winters they return to the gompa for meditation.
In the vicinity of the monastery is a silver coated Chhorten. The walls of the gompa are decorated with colourful wall paintings. The influence of Lama Gozzangwa is easily perceptible in the monastery as one can see a number of tantrik paintings and statues depicting a male and a female engaged in ecstatic union. The bhandar has a large store of musical instruments, dresses, thankas and other such articles.
Its founder Lama Norbu died in 1952 and his mortal remains as also his silver Chaitya/stupa are preserved in the gompa.
In the Kardang village one can visit another small gompa of Lama Gozzangwa and outside the gompa can see rock carvings and two big Chhortens.
This gompa above the village of Satingri has the biggest statue of Padma Sambhava and his two manifestations as Singhmukha and Vajravarahi. The statue is 12 feet tall. This gompa houses full library of Kangyur. Thankas in the gompa depict various episodes from the life of Lord Buddha.
Tayul gompa written in Tibetan as Ta - Yul means chosen place. It is one of the oldest Dugpa sect monasteries in Lahaul. One Dugpa lama, Serzang Rinchen of Khan region of Tibet, founded this monastery in the beginning of the 17th C. There is a story about how this place was chosen for construction of a monastery. Lama Serzang while making the meritorious circumambulation of the holy peak Drilburi spotted a small glade in the juniper forest above Kyor and Tashikyang villages on the opposite side of the valley. He then told his fellow pilgrims, "Look, over there, that is a suitable and auspicious place for a gompa". Thus the building of the gompa began to take shape. This monastery houses a hundred million mani wheel by turning which the minds of the sentient beings open to the compassion of the Lord. This mani wheel is reputed to be "self turning" on auspicious occasions. According to the lamas this wheel last turned on its own in 1986.
After almost a century a Ladakhi Tulku Tashi Tanphel of Tagna monastery renovated and extended the building of this gompa. He decorated the walls with murals, made stucco images of giant size referred to above and brought in the Narthang edition of the Kangyur from Tibet.
GHEMUR
This hamlet is situated at a distance of 18 kms from Keylong. It has a gompa where in the month of July devil dance is enacted by the Lamas. The Thakurs of Gushal are now settled in this village on the right bank of the river Chandra. The place is easily accessible as it is on the Manali-Leh national highway.
Calender of Fair & Festivals
Month
LADARCHA FAIRPlace Fair/Festival NameJan/Feb Pattan Valley KhoglaJan/Feb Lahaul Valley Halda Febuary Lahaul FagliFebuary Bhaga Valley (Lahaul) Gothsi (Gochi)
June/JulyShashur, Kardang, Gemur, Kyi Gompas in Lahal & Spiti
Previously, this fair used to be celebrated in Kibbar maidan in Spit in the month of July where traders from Ladakh, Rampur Busher and Spiti meet in this fair to barter their produce. Due to closure of Tibetan traders, this fair is now being celebrated at Kaza, the headquarters of Spiti Sub Division in the 3rd week of August. A large number of visitors and traders from Kullu/ Lahaul/ Kinnaur meet there. It has now become a conference of cultures of Spiti, Ladakh & Kinnaur as also of the Indian plains.
PAURI FAIR
This fair is celebrated during summer in the 3rd week of August every year. In earlier times this was the most prominent fair of Lahaul. People of all casts and creed gather there, not only from Lahaul
but from Chamba and Kullu too. The fair is combination of pilgrimage and festive activities. Preparations are made at least a week in advance and most of the people leave their homes a day before the celebrations, where they have faced darshan of the statue of Triloknath (Shiva Lord of Three Worlds) or Avolokiteshvara as it is regarded by Buddhist. After paying their obeisance, people go to the parikrama gallery between the inner and outside walls of temple. Pilgrims/ devotees usually complete three or seven clockwise circumambulations of the gallery/ rotating the prayer wheels and murmuring Mantras ( OM MANI PADME HUM) every morning and evening till they stay there. Ghee and Mustard oil lamps are lighted continuously inside. People donate money and Ghee/ Oil to maintain the lamps, one of which is so big as to accommodate 16 Kgs. of Ghee/ oil. After the prayer and rituals, the fair begins. Temporary shops, tea stalls and hotels are established at the fair ground. As soon as darkness overtakes, the pilgrims dance in a huge circle to the melody of folk songs devotional or otherwise. On the second morning, a traditional procession is taken out, which is headed by the Thakur of Triloknath riding on a decorated horse. Their destination is the place where as per traditional lores, seven gods, the youngest of whom was Trilokinath had appeared from seven springs in the past. This is the most important ritual of the fair. The precession then returns to the fair ground for more festivities. Some people for their native places leave as soon as the procession disperses, while others stay until the third day when the fair is over.
TRIBAL FAIR KEYLONG
Tribal fair coinciding with Independence day is celebrated with great pomp and show from 14th to 16th August, at Keylong the headquarters of the district. People from all parts of the valley congregate in their queer disposition and a large number of Indian and foreign tourists gather here to witness the fair. It is being celebrated as at State level fair. In order to make the fair colourful , artists and cultural troupes are invited from Chandigarh, Dharamshala, Leh , Chamba, Kullu, Spiti in addition to local artistes.
TSHESHU FAIRSTsheshu fair is celebrated in Shashur, Gemur, Kyi, Kardang Tabo and Mane Monasteries in the months of June. A large number of devotees/ people gather on these occasions.
Devil dance is performed by the Lamas bedecked in colourful dresses and wearing masks of different birds and animals.
FESTIVAL OF LIGHTA festival of lights known as Diwali is celebrated all over India in October every year. A similar type of festival is celebrated as Khogla in Pattan valley and Halda in other valleys of Lahaul at the second and third week of January. The date is fixed by a Lama while in Pattan valley it is celebrated to Magh Poornima coincide with (full moon). Pencil cedar branches are cut into strips and are tied together into bundles to make a torch called Halda quite similar to Hola in upper regions of Shimla district. In the evening halda at each house are lit and brought together at one centre place. This is repeated four to five times, each time in honour of different deities. When the ceremony is over, the villagers return to their houses. The haldas are prepared and lit in the same manner and collected at one place where they burn to lashes. But there is slight difference. Along with honouring the deities, the people of Gahar valley curse the Ranas of clans hostile to their own.. The people of Keylong curse the Ranas of Goushal and Kardang threatening to “bite their hearts”.
FAGLIFagli, locally known as Kus or Kuns is one of the most important festial of the Pattan valley. It falls, after a fortnight of Khogla on Amawasya (Moonless Night) in the first/ second week of February. The houses are fully decorated and oil lamps are lit. A Baraza is set-up which consist of a bamboo stick, two to three feet tall, mounted on the floor. Around the stick a white chader is draped in such a maanner as to suggest an angel dressed in while, sitting in the corner, ornamented with jewellery and marigold flowers. Delicious dishes are placed before the Baraza along with burning incense. The Baraza represents the angel “SHIKHARA- APPA) grand mother of the peak and here visit is considered to bring prosperity to the house. According to ritual demand the head of the family and his wife getup early in the morning to prepare (TOTU) (A dough of roasted barley flour and butter milk) and kwari. The Totu is taken upto the roof which is offered to the deities. Kwari is later thrown to the crows who await for it as if they have received the invitation. The totu is distributed among the family members as prasada. The couple go to pay their annual respects to their cows and sheep to express their gratitude and acknowledge their dependence on these animals. Rest of the family members getup and pay their respects to their elders of the household by bowing to them and touching their feet. After breakfast they first visit their nearest and aged person within the village and then the entire village community congregate to pay their respects to each house with Marchu (Local puri). Each day of the festival has a special name to show its own significance. One day is called punha, a symbolic representation of ploughing the fields. Since the fields are covered under snow during the period, so symbolic ploughing is done. Two green willow sticks representing the bullocks and two more representing yoke and plough are moved forward in the room in the front of the Baraza. In the following weeks feasts and festivities continue among relatives and friends, along with the exchange of marigold flowers and other gifts.
GOTHSI ( GOCHI)There is a festival of the Bhaga valley which is celebrated in February in the houses where a son was born during the preceding year. The villagers gather in the morning. A dough is made of Sattu ( roasted barley ) and is placed in a big plate. It is lifted by four men to the place of the village deity which is generally an idol of stone, a tree or a bush. A young girl dressed in her best clothes and decked with ornaments accompanies them. The girl carries a pot of chhang ( Local drink). She is followed by two men, one carrying a burning stick of pencil cedar and the other pencil their cedar leaves tied together in a lamb’s skin. The woman giving birth to the first son in the year, dressed in her best clothes accompanies them to pay homage to the village god. Labdagpa the village priest worships the God with a bow and an arrow. The dough is then broken and thrown away to appease the gods. The lamb’s skin is placed on a tree or a bush near the idol of the village deity and is shot at by arrows. Lohars beat drums during the ceremony. After the worship of the village deity is over, the people disperse but the relatives and friends move in to group and visit all their houses where male children are born. Drinking and dancing go together, sometimes all through the nights
TOURISM ACTIVITIES IN WINTER
SKING Sking in snow is one experience, which one can even enjoy in Lahaul in the month of April, for snow skiers there is plenty to offer at Babog, Patsieo, Keylong, Udaipur. Expert skiers can even ski from Keylong to Manali.for sking purpose different ski slopes are
SUMNAM SKI SLOP : One of the largest ski slopes in India. 8 Km. from Keylong. The slope is 6.5 Km. long
and width ranging 2 to 4 Km. For stay two mountain huts one owned by Layul Mountaineers and Skiers Association Keylong and other one is owned by Great Himalayan Adventure Sports Sumnam. There are around 20 local houses who accommodate the tourists and also provide Indian and local food on payment. The houses are equipped with all modern facilities like phone, T.V., flush latrines & bath with geysers, cozy warm rooms. Camp fires are arranged by local clubs. For ski equipment and mountain guides one private ski tours provide all kind of sking equipment.
KARDANG SKI SLOP : 4 Km. from Keylong. Good ski slopes opposite to Keylong. For stay one mountain hut at Barbog and around 25 local houses for accommodation (local style).
GONDHALA SKI SLOP : One of the biggest in Himachal. 15 Km. from Keylong and for stay one rest house and villagers may also accommodate on request.
TRILOKNATH SKI SLOP : Gentle slopes good for beginners. Snow condition is best in March and April. For stay temple sarai with comfortable bedding. One can also stay at Udaipur 16 Kms. by jeep.
WILD LIFE WATCH
The Snow Cock, Ibex, Marmots, Snow Fox, Silver Carp, Trout are rare wild life stocks to watch
RIVERS
The Chandra and the Bhaga rivers are the main drainage lines of Lahaul. After their, confluence at Tandi, their combined waters constitute the Chandrabhaga or the Chenab river. In the Spiti sub-division, major river is Spiti river. The rivers are not associated with any myths or historical events; on the other hand gods-one in each case are supposed to reside at the various junctions of the important streams and all such places are named after these gods. Similarly Places where ancient bridges exist are also supposed to be the abodes of gods; these gods are propitiated by occasional, often annual, sacrifices of goats and sheep
Chandra River
The Chandra river originates from a huge snow, bed on the south-eastern side of the Baralacha la and assumes a large size very soon. During the summer, it becomes unfordable within a short distance, about two kilometers of its source, while the rocky bed, the icy temperature of the water and the swiftness of. the current deter the boldest swimmer. Looking down the valley from the pass, a vista of grand peaks and glaciers, on the right hand side, falling abruptly to the water's edge makes a memorable impression on the visitor. On the left hand, the slopes are bare the feet of which remain perpetually covered under heavy mass of debris falling from above. Lower down, the Chandra Tal, a kilometre long and a half wide, lies in a broad grassy plain, the lake is placed between a low ridge and the main Kunzam Range with an outlet into the river. Following a general south-westerly course for about 48 km the river sweeps round to the west whence a further course of 64 km west and north-west takes it to Tandi where it meets the Bhaga river. Throughout its course the river is fed by a number of glaciers the biggest being the Shigri on its left bank, and the Samundari on the right. The chief tributaries of the Chandra below Shigri lie on the right bank and they originate from the Sonapani glacier opposite Khoksar and the Sissu glacier. The left bank is steep and bare, but there is good grazing ground on the right bank beyond Khoksar. There are several villages on the right bank as far as Sissue, and from Sissue the valley becomes richer and cultivable down to Gondhla. The hamlets grow larger as Gondhla is approached, and the houses are seen to be better built, surrounded by groves of poplar and willow. The northern mountains take gentler slope, but on the south, opposite Gondhla, the whole mountain side, from the peaks over 6,090 metres to the river bed below. 3050 metres, is visible. Glaciers and snowfields overhanging rocky steeps merge into grassy slopes below. At one point the cliffs descend for some 1,210 metres and form the grandest precipices in the world.From its source to its confluence with the Bhaga at Tandi, the Chandra registers a fall of about 12.5 metres
per kilometre.
Bhaga River
The Bhaga river rises in the Suraj Tal or Lake of the Sun, a name given to the small but deep tarn situated well on the summit of the Baralacha Pass, a little below an altitude of 16,000 feet. The Bhaga is another significant constituent of the Chenab river system. It takes its origin from the snow-bed on the south-western foot of the Baralacha Pass and flows northwest and later curves round to the south-west. The country is barren down to Darcha village, which is situated near the junction of the Yoche Nullah and the Zangskar Chu with the main stream at about 3,500 metres from the sea. The total length of the river is about 65 km with an average fall of about 28 metres per kilometre. The banks of the stream are steep and rocky.Below the confluence of the Chandra and the Bhaga at Tandi the joint stream is known as Chandrabhaga. From a height of about 2800 metres the fall of the river is six metres per kilometre through 25 km of length in a north-westerly direction to the border of Chamba district. The side ravines are numerous the biggest among them being the Chokhang nullah, which pours in from the north by the village of Thirot.
Chanderbhaga or Chenab River
In its upper course through Lahaul valley, the river Chenab is known as the Chandra-Bhaga. It is formed by the rivers Chandra and Bhaga and hence the name. As it flows through Lahul, this river has laid thick deposits of sediments. It is in spate during the summer season when the snow on the mountains melts. Flash floods occur with regularity in the early afternoon in summer. They have been known to wash away hundreds of cattle each year. The river Chandra-Bhaga may freeze occasionally during the winter season.
Spiti River
The Spiti river has its source far north on the eastern slopes off mountain ranges which ruin between Lahul and Spiti. The river is formed at the base of the Kunzam Range by the confluence of Kunzam La Togpo and the streams Kabzima and Pinglung. On the western side of its sour lies a vast salt-water lake. The river follows a long winding course interloced here and there by spurs that project from the foot of the plateaus on both sides. The Spiti has a broad and flat valley bordered by high vertical cliffs. The valley tops are flat and plateau-like. Above the 'plateaus and land again rises in steep scarps. The length of the river within Spiti on the south-east, is about 130 km. It continues in Kinnaur district upto a place known as Khabo where it joins the Satluj.The main stream of the Spiti river, which is fed by the glaciers, is a perennial one, while some of the tributary streams disappear in the loose morain at the feet of the plateaus. During its course through the difficult, complex terrain, the Spiti is joined by a number of tributaries from both the sides. Those which join its right bank include: Chiomo, Gyundi, Rahtang, Ulah, Pin, Lungze, Mane, Surahl, Pomograng, Mamdang and Sumra; the left bank tributaries are: Thamar, Hanse, Thumna, Tagting, Thumpa Lumpa, Shila, Kaza, Lingti, Poh, Tabo, Karati, Gimdo and Parechu.
PIN RIVERThe Pin river constitutes the most important right bank tributary of Spiti river. Its main branch, Kyoti, originates from the Lasuma mountain in the Srikand Range of the Middle Himalayas. It is joined by another branch from the Bhaba Pass near Mudd village. Later it is fed by a number of streamlets, chief among which are Palder Chin, polder Chum and Shang on the right bank, and Karve, Lavrang, Mudd Taking, Madang, Saguaro, Barakuit, Gooling, Seeling and Kit 'togpos' on the left bank. The Pin is about 50 km long. The Gyundi and the Rahtang, like the Pin, rise from the Mid-Himalayas and are fed by glaciers.Of the left bank tributaries of the Spiti, the most important are: Lingti, Gimdo and the Parechu, all of which rise in the main Himalayas. Lingti is about 40 km in length and there are a number of villages in its watershed. Parechu, which starts from near the Tagling La and Parang La ranges, runs north-east and joins the Spiti at Sumdo.
The Spiti rivers are all violent torrents whose depths vary enormously, depending upon the season. In winter, when the water freezes, the Spiti is barely about half a metre deep and at its widest only a stone's throw across, and has a discharge of a couple of hundred cusecs. Its water, heavily charged with silt, is generally turbid and yellow. Fording, especially in the latter part of the day, is thus rendered perilous and almost impossible. The maximum discharge in the river, at the point where it enters Kinnaur, may go as high as twenty to thirty thousand cusecs. The discharges in its tributaries also are subject to seasonal, daily, and even hourly fluctuations. None of the rivers is navigable. The larger tributaries of the Spiti flow through valleys which sometimes resemble its own. But shortly before joining it, these are forced into narrow chasms in the rocky heights which rise on either side of the main river. The depth of these cuttings is enormous; the walls of the canyon in the Shila Togpo can hardly be less than 600 metres. The Pin gorge is several kilometres in length; similar rocky chasms can be seen in the gorges formed by the Sampa, Lingti, Rahtang and Gyundi togpo.
Tsarab River
In the north, the Tsarab runs north-westwards for about fifty kilo-metres before joining the Lingti river and entering Zangskar in Ladakh. The Tsarab is, because of its peculiar location, not used for any purpose by the Spitians. Its watershed does not contain any human habitation; it ultimately joins the Indus in Ladakh.
Bara Shigri Glacier
The largest glacier in the district is situated in Lahaul sub-division known as Bara Shigri, Bara meaning big and Shigri meaning glacier, in Lahaul dialect. Many mountaineers have trekked it for the sake of hobby or geographical exploration. This glacier rises from a number of large glaciers, meeting in great valley above, filling that up, and then pushing themselves over its rim in one great ice-stream down to the river.
Hugh Whistler, writing in 1924, says, "Shigri is applied par-excellence to one particular glacier that emerges from the mountains on the left bank of the Chandra. It is said to be several miles long, and the snout reaches right down to the river, lying athwart the customary road from Kullu to Spiti." Estimates differ as to the breadth of the glacier where it is crossed, as owing to its movement and roughness no two caravans cross it in exactly the same way, but it is not less than a mile wide. In 1836 this glacier burst its bounds and dammed the Chandra, causing the formation of a large lake, which finally broke loose and carried devastation down the valley. The story runs that the people of Spiti posted guards in the Kunzam Pass to watch whether the water would rise high enough to flow across into Spiti."
The Bara Shigri glacier attracted much attention for many years because of the valuable antimony deposits found there. The glacier was first surveyed in 1906 by H. Walker and E.H. Pascoe of the Geologiaal Survey of India. Daring 1955 the Geological Survey of India sponsored an expedition to this glacier as part of the Indian programme for the International Geophysical Year 1956-57, when a number of Himalayan glaciers were examined and their snout position fixed.The Bara Shigri glacier, whose name signifies 'boulder-covered-ice', flows northwards and debouches into the Chandra river where its southerly course is deflected westwards, close to the Spiti border. The glacier is above 3,950 m altitude and extends beyond 4,570 m, a 11 km length of which has been recently surveyed and mapped. The glacier is so heavily covered with surface moraine that ice is not visible for long stretches except along the crevices and in the ablation areas.
Across the Bara Shigri is another glacier known as Chhota Shigri. It is a comparatively smaller glacier and does not reach down to the bed of the river, but it is most steep and slippery, difficult to cross.
The Gangstang glacier situated at the western border of the Lahaul region at an altitude of about 5,480 m streaming into Shahsha nullah which joins the Chandrabhaga river at about 13 km to the south.
Sonapani Glacier
The desiccated glacier lake and the old terminal moraine are visible from the Rohtang Pass. The desiccated lake, about 2.5 km in length, is a narrow meandering plain following the contours of bounding slopes and consists of such fluvio-glacial deposits as mud, fine sand, pebbles and angular gravels, through which the glacier stream runs. The glacier is about 11 km long. An ice-cliff forms the snout which is mostly covered by stone, and the stream issues from an ice cave situated towards the western limb of the curved ice-cliff. To the south of the snout, and near to it, is a small terminal moraine. A large terminal moraine used to hold up the waters of the old lake. Three more old terminal moraines are cut through by the Sonapani stream after its escape from the lake-bed.
Perad Glacier
It is a small one and is easily accessible being within one kilometre of Putiruni. There is a well marked ice-cave and the glacier stream runs between two large lateral moraines.
ROHTANG PASSRohtang pass (altitude 13050 feet) separates Kullu, from the exotic charm of the Lahaul valley. In Tibetan Rohtang means "a heap of dead bodies" and the pass stands true to its notorious name. Every year it must take toll of life and property. This is so because after 11 A.M. sudden blizzerds and snow storms called Biannas are only to be expected. The pass becomes all the more hazardous to negotiate due to frequent avalanches.
The summit of the pass turns into lush green meadow in summer studded with violets and varieties of wild Himalayan and Alpine flowers. Butterflies of numerous and rare kind and varigated hues also draw the attention of' the visitor.
At the highest point on top to the right as one faces Lahaul, is a small stone enclosure and a water spring which is the principal source of the river Beas; .the other, Beas kund is at the head of the Solang nullah. The place gained religious significance because of sojourn of Beas Rishi (the famous Vyasa Rishi, author of the epic Mahabharata.
To the left of this pass is the little lake Sarkund. On the 20th Bhadon (early September) every year a large number of people visit this lake with the belief and hope that an early morning bath in it will cure all their ailments.
Almost directly opposite and obviously only a few kms away is the well defined Sonapani glacier. Slightly to the left are the twin peaks of Gyephang La, seats of Pre Aryan Himalayan gods Jamulu and his younger brother Gyephang. These peaks are snow streaked and snow covered. The higher peak is 5856 m. high.
Gyephang La can be seen from Kunzom, Pangi Lahaul and from Serchu plains across the Baralacha La. The higher of the two peaks can be seen on a clear day from as far as the Ridge in Shimla.
Himachal tourism buses and taxi operators of Manali provide frequent and efficient service to the tourists in the open season. Tea and snacks are available on the top. However for food one has to halt at Marhi.
TopKHOKSAR
Khoksar is the first village and gate way to Lahaul. This village is situated at an altitude of 3140 m. on the right bank of the river Chandra. There is habitation on the left bank also. H.P.P.W.D. rest house and Serai are on the left bank. Khoksar remains covered under snow during winters. This village is surrounded by high mountains and is avalanche-prone. Avalanches can be seen piled up even near the river bed. During winters Khoksar is the coldest inhabited place in Lahaul. The river freezes during winters and is covered with snow to afford regular passage for human beings as also for mule traffic. Just five kms ahead of Khoksar towards Manali is Gramphu from where a diversion to the left leads to Kaza. During summers rich growth of alpine flowers, beautiful potato fields and numerous water channels spell bound the visitor. Herds of goats and sheep can be seen grazing around. This may be of interest to the reader that Khoksar was on the old trade route from Indian plains to the West Asia.
TopSISSU
This village is situated on the right bank of the river Chandra at an altitude of 3130m. The village is located on a broad flat ground above the Chandra river. Good plantations of willows and poplars on both sides of the road are so dense during summers that at places even the sun rays fail to penetrate. The terraces are green with potato, peas, barley and buck wheat. Wild roses of white, yellow and red hues with expanses of alpine flowers deck the slopes in an unforgettable feast of colours. There is a swampy patch on the river side where the Siberian wild duck and geese halt when on their way back from the Indian plains. Snow trout is also available in the village near the river side. Behind the ridge on which the village is situated is the famous and most propitiated Gyephang peak. Lord Gyephang or Ghepan is the presiding deity of Lahaul--the protector of people. In olden days people of Lahaul fought, their wars under the banner of Lord Gyephang. The temple of Lord Ghepan is in this village. The temple is not open to outsiders. Once in two/three years the deity is taken out of the temple in a procession. A little short of the village is the Sissu nullah which flows down a narrow gorge from tho Gyephang peak glaciers. Across the river one can see the beautiful Sissu fall cascading over the cliff from the high valley between the two mountains. A suspension bridge over the river provides easy access to this picturesque fall. Very good photograph of the fall can be had from the road just short of the P.W.D. rest house.Two fountain slabs dating back to 1l th or 12th C. AD can also be seen in this village.
TopGONDHLAThe village is situated at a distance of 18 kms from Keylong, the district headquarters along the right bank of the river Chandra. Situated at an altitude of 3160 m. on a fairly level expanse of land this hamlet is large as compared to other villages in the valley. The village is surrounded by thick foliage of poplars and willows. From Sissue to Gondhla land is cultivable and fertile. Between these two places the whole mountain side from the peaks over 6090 m. to the river bed below 3050 m. is awe-inspiring. Glaciers and snowfields overhanging the precipices make them one of the finest in the world. House of the Thakur of Gondhla, called the Gondhla castle or fort, attracts a large number of tourists. The Present Thakur Fateh Chand would like the tourists to believe the Fort is about 20 generations old, but according to the District Gazateer of Lahaul and Spiti the fort was built in 1700 A.D. by Raja Man Singh of
Kullu whose influence stretched upto the Lingti plains beyond the Baralacha-la. This Raja also married a daughter of the Gondhla family to cement his ties with the Thakur. ,The castle is an example of the indigenous timber bonded stone style of the Western Himalayas consisting of alternate courses of stone and wooden beams and cemented together with wet clay. This seven storey high edifice is topped by a wooden verandah which runs round the upper storey. This is some thing like the Swiss Chalet. The staircases in the building are partially notched wooden logs. The building has many apartments which can comfortably accommodate more than 100 people. The fifth storey was exclusively meant for the Thakur. It consisted of personal prayer chamber and a verandah from where the Thakur used to listen to the public and later pronounce his judgements. Once the walls of the prayer chamber were painted all over in stone colours. Forty volumes of Kangyur can still be seen littered around and carelessly stacked on a wooden rack. Ganesha as the main deity carved on the facade of the prayer chamber. In one of the prayer chambers the window connecting the outer room is an exquisite work of wood carving. The 'jali' (net) carved on a single piece of wood looks exactly like the cane work.Raja Man Singh of Kullu is believed to have stayed in the sixth storey of the-fort in 1720 A.D. when he was on his way to Trilokinath Temple in Udaipur. Remains of the kitchen and utencils can still be seen in the room.Several weapons including bows, arrows, quivers, catapults, guns and canons beside other articles of antique value can be seen rusting in the apartments. Age old costumes, furniture and idols are also strewn around in a state of neglect. The Thakur is negotiating with the Department of Language and Culture of Himachal Pradesh to sell it as he finds it difficult to maintain this structure.
Godhla Fort
Another interesting article to be seen in possession of the Thakur is Sharab Raldi, i.e., "the sword of wisdom" as Sharab means wisdom and Raldi means a sword. Sword of wisdom (sanskrit Pragya Kharga) has great importance among the Tibetans. Manjushri is the Tibetaa god of wisdom and he is always portrayed carrying this sword of wisdom in his right hand. According to the Thakur this sword was given to one of his ancestors by His Holiness Dalai Lama when that ancestor had fled to Tibet sick of the designs of the local people. This sword seems to have been built in the Toledo technique of spain. This technique is stated to be superior to the Sheffield technique. In Toledo thin steel wires are beaten with a hammer to obtain the desired shape of a sword or other like weapon. One can really observe thin lines in the length of the sword. Earlier this sword was never shown to the outsiders but now an insistent visitor can see this prize sword of the Thakur. The village gompa is of historical importance. Every year in the month of July a fair is held for two days. On the first day the famous Chham or devil dance is enacted. Large number of people turn out to witness the performance. Near the Govt School there is a boulder bearing greater than life size rock carvings of some deities. Local people ascribe the work to the Pandavas of the great epic the Mahabharata. But these figures resemble some Buddhist deities, which is yet to be ascertained. In Gondhla there is a P.W.D. rest house which is surrounded by willows. No eating joint is available in the village.
TopTANDI
The village is situated above the confluence of the rivers Chandra and Bhaga in the Pattan valley some 7 kms away from Keylong. Revenue and settlement records reveal that Tandi was founded by Raja Rana Chand Ram under the name of Chandi which over the years got corrupted into Tandi.
There are atleast three mythological stories connected with Tandi. First, Tandi is believed to means Tan Dehi, i.e., giving up of the body. This is associated with Draupadi, the wife of Pandav. as, who left her body at this place. Second, this is believed that Rishi Vashishtha who meditated near the hot water springs of Manali was cremated at this confluence; hence named Tandi, i.e., body consumed. According to the third, Chandra and Bhaga were son and daughter of the Moon and the Sun gods respectively. They were in love with each other. To perform their celestial marriage they decided to climb the Baralacha-la and from there run in opposite directions encircling a vast tract of Lahaul. Thus flowing south-east and south-west both met at Tandi to enter the wedlock.
Another village above the confluence is Gushal which looks extermely beautiful when seen from Tupchiling or Kargha. The confluence itself is best seen from Tupchiling, Kargha -and Ghushal.
TopKEYLONG
Keylong is the district head quarters of Lahaul and Spifi. At an altitude of 3156 m. Keylong is situated on the main trade route between the Rohtang and Baralacha passes above the Bhaga river. Most of the government offices are located at Keylong. This is also the hub-centre of all commercial activity with a regular bazaar. Naturally Keylong is the most populated and busy village of the Lahaul valley. As far as communication facilities are concerned, there are police and telegraph radio nets, telephone exchange at Keylong and postal service throughout the valley. There are three light TV transmitter has been installed one in Sumnam village, second in Baring & third in Udaipur. In the past Keylong was home for the Moravian missionaries.
Lady Of Keylong
During summers Keylong is very green looking refreshingly striking against a backdrop of brown hills and snow clad peaks. Because of this panoramic setting Lieut. Col., the Honble C.G. Bruce, M.V.O. likened Keylong to a barbaric jewel--a roughly cut emerald in a bronze and silver setting. There can not be a better simile to describe the lush green charm of Keylong during summer's. "It is an oasis of green fields and willow planted water courses surrounded by brown hills and snowy heights".
There is a Cricuit House, a P.W.D. rest house, a Sainik Rest House, a Tourist Bungalow and many hotels which provide accommodation to the tourists. Several eating joints and restaurants are also there for every taste.
Three of the best known monasteries Tayul, Kardang and Sha-Shur are within a few kms. from this village. Tourists may also like to visit the temple of the local deity Kelang Wazir in the house of one Sh. Nawang Dorje
JISPAThis beautiful spot is 22 kms away from Keylong and 4 kms ahead of Ghemur. The village is situated at the junction of two nullahs with the main river Bhaga. Jispa has a very large dry river-bed, a rarity in Lahaul.
Just on the edge of the river Bhaga is a small PWD rest house. Near this the river is shallow and plenty of trout fish can be caught during summers. The place is virtually an angler's delight. Good juniper plantation is around this village.
TopDARCHA
Darcha is situated at the junction of Yotche nullah and the Zangskar chhu which takes off from the Shinkun la. Both these nullahs meet with the main river Bhaga at this place. The valley broadens out from Darcha. The altitude of Darcha is about 3500 m. which makes it an ideal base camp for acclimatisation. Two days acclimatisation at this place will prove useful for expeditions to Baralacha la and beyond. Darcha is the jumping off point for treks to Padum over the Shinkun la or Baralacha la and Phirtse la and for treks or mountaineering expeditions to Leh and peaks of Chandra Bhaga series. However no tourist bungalow or rest house facilities are available on either side of the nullahs. A police check post is also there. Darcha is the last village where one can see sparse growth of trees. Beyond Darcha not even a single tree can be seen on either side of the highway. Landscape starts looking desolate and absolutely barren.
TopSURAJ TAAL
Suraj Taal or the lake of the Sun god is situated well on the summit of the Baralacha la, a little below an altitude of 16000 feet. The Bhaga river rises in this lake which is situated in a beautiful natural amphitheatre just below the highway. "During winters it remains in the grip of a pall of ice untidy with lumps of frozen snow and jutting stones". But in the summer season this tarn comes back to its glorious charm, the deep blue of its icy waters reflecting craggy mountains and snowy heights. This is an ideal halting place for having a bite that one might be carrying. No shops or dhabas are available around this place.
TopCHANDRA TAALThe natural lake of Chandrataal is situated at about 14,000 ft above msl between a low ridge and about nine kms from the Kunzom pass. The lake lies in a broad grassy plain which in ancient times was a glacier. The lake is about a kilometre in length and half of it in breadth. Its circumambulation is five kms long. There is a brownish patch "Samundari Tapu" in the middle of the lake which a number of people have tried to reach but in vain. There is a story of a mermaid living in the glacial lake. This is also said that a shepherd from Hansa village in the Spiti valley fell in love with the fairy and spent some time with her under the water. Cranes and ducks abound in the lake.
Chandra Taal is a favourite halting place for the shepherds because of rich growth of grass. The water in the lake is so clear that stones at its bottom are easily visible.Alpine vegetation grows on the surrounding moraines in summer. This lake freezes during the winter season. Its waters are crystal clear and free from pollution. A number of temples exist along the periphery of the lake.
TopUDAIPUR
This sub-divisional headquaters is situated at the junction of the mighty Mayar nullah with the main river Chandrabhaga. Situated 53 kms away from Keylong, earlier this village was known as Margul or Markul. Around 1695 it was renamed Udaipur when Raja Udai Singh of Chamba (1690-172'8) raised it to the status of
a district centre in the Chamba-Lahaul which his father Chatter Singh had annexed to his Chamba state.
Good kail-blue pine forests can be seen all around the village. Since the altitude is low, apples, walnuts, apricots, etc. are grown in the area. This village is warm but avalanches-prone; the latter making it unsuitable for district headquaters. However Udaipur offers the most thickly forested and green scenery in Lahaul. Hermann Goetz who visited this area in 1939 complimented the natural charm of this place by comparing its scenery to the Swiss scenery.
This place attracts a lot of tourists and pilgrims to its two unique temples, namely, Trilokinath and Markula Devi temples.
Trilokinath temple is representative of the Kashmiri-Kannauj style of, Lalitaditya of Kashmir (725-756). Most of the Trilokinath temple is of much later period, but the column bases of the original porch of the sanctuary are of a very special type characteristic of the reign of Lalitaditya. This Shiva temple
was transformed into a Buddhist shrine by Padma Sambhava. However, according to Goetz its present Lamaistic image of Avalokiteshvara-Trilokinath cannot be earlier than the 12th C. This temple continues to attract both the Hindu and the Buddhist pilgrims. In the centre of the compound one can still see the Nandi Bull of Lord Shiva. There is also a drain in a wall of the temple at the level of the platform in the sanctorum which was probably built at the time of construction to drain out the water or milk which was poured over the Shiva.
The temple is built in the classical style introduced in the hills in the 7th and 8th C. As is typical to the style this temple consists of a curvilinear stone tower (shikhara) crowned with the characteristic 'amalka' (imitating a segmented gourd). Like plains there is no pillared hall (mandapa) in the hills perhaps owing to non-availability of clear ground.
Every year in the month of August a festival named Pauri is held there for three days when followers of both religions gather to offer prayers.
The Markula Devi temple goes back to Ajayvarman's reign in Kashmir, though no original work of so early a date survives. But part of the Markula temple has been copied during repairs in the 11/12th and 16th C. The phase of Kashmiri art in the 11th and 12th C in its transition to the Lamaistic art of Western Tibet is represented by the inner facade of the temple; main characteristic of this transitional phase being three headed Vishnu images.
Markula's wood carvings belong to two different periods, the earlier one consisting of the facade of the sanctum sanctorum and the ceiling and four main pillars of the mandapa; arid the later one consisting of two additional pillars, the dwarpala statues on both sides of the facade, window panels and the architraves supporting the ceiling. The exterior of the temple is most ordinary as it had to be renewed time and again because of vagaries of nature. The temple is the usual structure of timber-bonded stone. The temple is covered with a steep gable roof of wooden shingles in a steep pyramid looking like the Shikhara temples in the plains. The interior, however, is rich in artistic quality.
The wall panels depict scenes from the Mahabharata, Ramayana, Sunderkand, Yuddhakand, grant of ground by Raja Bali to Vaaman, three headed incarnation of Lord Vishnu, Churning of the ocean (Samudramanthan) Amritpaan, etc.
The ceiling consists of nine panels of different size and shape. Eight of these border the big centre piece. The centre piece, is in the Lantern style. The 'kirtimukha' masks on this centre piece are characteristic of the 7th and 8th C. Four figural panels on the four basic directions depict Gandharvas busy with their mates and holding objects like crowns, bracelets, jewels and charnaras, etc. Their dance, poses are those of the Bharta Natya and the costumes resemble the late Gupta period. Also shown are Nataraj and Gauri with dancing Ganas. Shiva on both sides is flanked by his alter egos, the Bhairavas. The next panel deviates from the Hindu pantheon or myth for it represents the "Assault of Mara". In the centre Buddha is shown sitting on the Vajrasana in Bhumisparshasana calling the Earth goddess to witness his victory over Mara or the god of Lust and death.
The facade of the temple is most richly, elaborately and intricately carved. The niches of the door jambs have been carved into complicated gables of late Kashmiri style. The facade displays, the Ganga, the Yamuna, several Yakshas and. Kinnars, ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu the Navgrahas and Lord Surya (the sun god). The Sun god is repeatedly shown on his chariot drawn by seven horses making it explicit that the temple was dedicated to Lord Surya.
The silver idol of Kali in her aspect as Mahishasurmardini was installed by Thakur Himpala in 1569-70. The statue was cast by one Panjamanaka Jinaka from Bhadravah. The workmanship of the statue cannot be called exquisite because the bodies of the goddess and the buffallo look bloated. The statue head is too big and her Crown resembles the ceremonial headgear of a Tibetan lama. The enclosing frame suggests brass idols of the 15th and 16th C. from Rajasthan, the top of it-the backs of early Moghul thrones. The impact of the Moghul and Rajput styles is understandable which perhaps penetrated via Balor which then had some control over Bhadravah. The Tibetan element is also not surprising in a frontier area like Lahaul where Tibetan Lahaulis treat Markula Devi as rDo-rje phag-mo (sanskrit Vajravarahi). Previous to this installation Lahaul had been for several centuries under the Ladakhi supremacy, and it was then that the Lamaistic sculpture was introduced. At the time of its reconversion into a Hindu shrine it was natural to seIect an image of Kali because of its superficial similarity to Vajravarahi. The poor and uneducated local population could hardly make any distinction between the Lamaistic and the Hindu interpretations of the great goddess. This Hindu revivalist style was patronised by Raja Pratap Singh (1558-82) of Chamba. Selection of episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata is typical to this style.
Local population believes this temple to be the work of the master craftsman who built the famous Hidimba Temple at Manali for Bahadur Singh of Kullu. Historically this theory sounds plausible because Pratap Singh was the son-in-law and close fried and ally of Bahadur Singh. There is striking similarity between many figures and other details of the later wood carvings to the relief's of the Hidimba Devi Temple.
This unique shrine is the last wooden temple built fundamentally in the tradition of the early 8th C. This is a must-visit place
Top
Peaks in Lahaul ValleyPeaks Metres Longitude Latitude Details
A pass between the bend of the Lingti river in eastern Spiti. From west to east it leads to Lingti valley as the river makes a curve. Great view of Gyagar from its top.
Ghunsarang la(5500 m)
An alternate pass near Manirang Pass is Ghinsarang la, or known locally as Ghulla la. It also connects Mane with Ropa by a detour on the same ridge.
Kuli la(4880 m)
Pass south of Chaksachan la, west of the Lingti river. It joins the Lingti valley with the Syrma valley in eastern Spiti.
Kunzum la(4550 m)
This pass is the gate to the Spiti valley from the west. There is a motorable road running through this pass now, which connects Batal in the upper Chandra valley and the first village Losar of the Spiti valley. This pass is broad and easily crossable. The ascent is steep, but not difficult from the upper Chandra valley, but the descent towards Spiti valley is negligible. This pass is crossable on foot from May/June to October/November and the snowfall on this pass is less than on the Rohtang Pass. The entire route is generally motorable from early August to late September, depending on snowfall each year.
Lepcha la Pass(Hangrang Pass)
Lepcha la connects the extreme south-eastern end of the Spiti valley with Shailkhar and Chango of the Hangrang valley in Kinnaur. There is vegetation on this pass and small trees and bushes are present. During winter there is residuary snow for a couple of months but the pass can be negotiated.
Manirang Pass (5550 m)
Manirang Pass connects the Spiti valley with the Ropa valley of Kinnaur. This is a high pass and there is a five km long snow-bed on the Ropa valley side and about a three kilometres long snow-bed on the Spiti side. The approach to this pass from the Spiti side through village Mane is gradual whereas the descent towards the Ropa valley side is very steep through a very narrow gorge.There is hardly any other traffic on this route. The tracks leading to the pass are in a bad shape, quite tiring and in some places dangerous.
North Ratang Col (5600 m)
Situated on the shoulder of Ratang Tower peak. it is approached from the side valley of the Ratang and on the north leads to the
Gyundi valley after careful negotiation.
Parang la (5580 m)
Parang la connects the Spiti valley to parts of Ladakh. On the Spitian side of this pass, flows the river Parilungbi and the track runs on its side, climbing up the pass towards Ladakh. There is a glacier about three kilometres on the northeast of this pass and a number of crevasses make it difficult to cross.On the same axis as Parang la lies Takling la which follows a little detour to cross from Spiti to Ladakh to meet the Parang la route.
Pin Parvati Pass (5400 m)
This is the only major pass which was not discovered by the enterprising locals. It was Louis Dane who investigated this pass and finally crossed it in 1897. This is a major pass which links the Pin valley with the Parvati valley of Kullu, thus avoiding the entire round-about journey over the Rohtang and Kunzun la. For a visit to the large Pin valley it was not necessary for locals to come via Kaja.Route from Kullu climbs up gradually over snowfields and descends to the Pin valley to meet the Tari Khango pass route. The first villages in the Pin valley of Spiti are Mud and Sagnam.
Sanugba Col (5400 m)
The Ratang valley, west Spiti has a major side valley called Sanugba. This pass in the side valley of Ratang leads to the Sanugba valley.
Shijbang (4820 m)
A pass in the Lingti valley, ahead of Lalung village. After crossing Zingu Top one has to climb steeply to cross this pass and descend to Shijbang plains.
ShillaJot (5670 m)
The pass dividing Langja valley and Syarma nala, It is situated on .the same ridge as Chau Chau Kang Nilda.
South Ratang Pass (5600 m)
Approaching from the Pin-Khamengar valleys one has to approach this pass from . a side valley. Difficult and steep descent towards the Ratang side.
Syarma la (5040 m)
A pass joining the Syarma vailley with Kuli la in the Lingti valley. Situated on the right side of the valley. The Syarma nala leads to ShillaJot.
Takling la (5500 m)
An alternate pass to Parang la, now sparingly used. It leads from Spiti to Ladakh.
Tari Khango Pass(Bhaba Pass)(4865 m)
There are two passes in the southwest of Pin valley which connect the Spiti valley with the Bhaba valley of Kinnaur. The track from the Bhaba valley connects the Hindustan-Tibet road at Wangtu. The pass situated in the east is named 'Taft Khango' and is popularly known as the 'Bhaba' Pass.
The pass in the west is called Shakarode (5100 m) (also known as Shakarog Khaaxgo). By crossing Bhaba Pass from th~ Pin valley side, the entire area of Kinnaur district to the east of Wangtu can be bypassed. The approach to the pass from Spiti is gradual whereas the descent to the other side of the pass towards Bhaba valley is tedious and rocky. This pass has long been used as a trade route between the Pin and Bhaba valleys.
Yangzi Diwan (5890 m)
Literally means 'a new pass'. It is linking the upper Lingti valley and the Pare Chu valley. It is a snow-bound and near Paftlungbi Peak.
Zingu Top (4510 m)
Climb steeply from Lalung village in the Lingti valley to the depression in the ridge. The eastern side is steep and full of scree and leads to Shijbang Pass.
