1 History With the success of the Coon Gap Sawmill, part of the expanding John T. McCabe empire, came the realization that not every tree in the forest is good for cutting into boards. Some are just too small. And not every branch of those trees worthy of meeting the sawyer would be large enough for the same fate. So management saw the potential for creating another source of revenue, the pulp mill. Since the best investment is with someone else’s money, an associate of McCabe, Mr. Robert Hyde, was contacted about building a pulp mill. Naturally, there were strong ties to the McCabe empire, including, but not limited to, rail access only by the McCabe Lumber Company narrow gauge railroad. And for a number of years, only McCabe equipment (MCBX reporting marks) could be seen near the mill. Construction started in 1901, and the first mill was in operation by the summer of ’02. Things went well up until the forest fire of 1911. While the flames did not get closer than a half-mile to the mill, winds carried burning embers which subsequently ignited the shake roof of the original mill building. Robert was the typical thrifty Scot who spent money wisely; he carried insurance. The replacement mill was in operation in less than six months after the fire. The new mill was bigger, and more modern. And things went back to normal. Quincy, Robert’s son, took over the mill operation after his father’s retirement in 1916. He was determined that things would not change from the way his father had been doing business. He even kept old man Greeley on the payroll as foreman. But progress could not be stopped, and with it, the government grew, especially with the entry into the great war. (This war was later to be known as the War to End All Wars.) It seemed that every aspect of life needed a government agency to control it, and each agency needed to write reports. The demand for paper products increased proportionally! Standard gauge rails were laid into the mill so larger shipments could be handled. More clerks were hired and an auxiliary office was installed beside the original one. As the years went by, a new chipping shed was added, along with a larger chip storage bin. The increase in the sizes of the rail cars justified the larger pulp storage building. Always wanting to keep things as they were, Quincy refused to remove the rails from beside the main building, after all, there may be a large piece of machinery that needs to be delivered directly into the mill. So a removable bridge was built between the mill and storage building over the rails. No one ever remembers this bridge being removed, but the possibility made Quincy happy! So the Hyde Pulp Mill became a doorway to the past. Many of the processes and methods used here have not changed since the beginning of the twentieth century. Improvements came only after they were completely cost justified, and often over the loud complaints of Quincy. Hopefully, things will never change. The Pulping Process The Hyde Pulp Mill uses the chemical process to break down the wood chips into pulp. This process was the kraft process which first appeared in the late 1800’s. The process was named kraft because it is the German word for strength, and the name is still used today for the strong brown paper. It produced a stronger, lighter and cheaper pulp, yet darker in color, than the earlier chemical methods. In this kraft process, sodium sulfate is chemically reduced to sulfide, which is then introduced into the cooking liquid. This speeds the process of breaking down the pulp chips. While not trying to get into the heavy chemistry of it all, it seems that the alkali concentration in the cooking liquid, and the high temperatures, 155-175 0 , do most of the work breaking down the chips. Here at the Hyde Pulp Mill, the day starts with the chipping crew working on the latest load of pulp wood. At the chipping shed, they strip off the bark, which is stored for resale to the local tannery, wash off the dirt, and run the logs into the chipper. Chips will vary in size, but the best ones should be ¼” x ¾” to get the best pulp. Oversized chips are run through the chipper a second time, and those considered too small for the good pulp, are fed into the firebox of the boiler. From the chip storage bin, an auger brings chips into the main building. There they are again screened for size and loaded into the digester. This digester is a simple pressure tank that will hold the chips, water, and chemicals while they cook. This process takes around eight hours. After draining, the pulp is washed and dried, then compressed into slabs. These slabs are stacked, wrapped, and wired for shipping to the paper mill. Mr. Hyde moved the wrapping process to the shipping/storage building when it was built. The slabs are moved by cart from the main building to the
Transcript
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HistoryWith the success of the CoonGap Sawmill, part of theexpanding John T. McCabeempire, came the realizationthat not every tree in theforest is good for cutting intoboards. Some are just toosmall. And not every branchof those trees worthy ofmeeting the sawyer would belarge enough for the samefate. So management saw thepotential for creating anothersource of revenue, the pulpmill.
Since the bestinvestment is with someoneelse’s money, an associate ofMcCabe, Mr. Robert Hyde,was contacted about buildinga pulp mill. Naturally, therewere strong ties to the McCabe empire, including, but not limitedto, rail access only by the McCabe Lumber Company narrowgauge railroad. And for a number of years, only McCabeequipment (MCBX reporting marks) could be seen near the mill.
Construction started in 1901, and the first mill was inoperation by the summer of ’02. Things went well up until theforest fire of 1911. While the flames did not get closer than ahalf-mile to the mill, winds carried burning embers whichsubsequently ignited the shake roof of the original mill building.Robert was the typical thrifty Scot who spent money wisely; hecarried insurance. The replacement mill was in operation in lessthan six months after the fire. The new mill was bigger, andmore modern. And things went back to normal.
Quincy, Robert’s son, took over the mill operation afterhis father’s retirement in 1916. He was determined that thingswould not change from the way his father had been doingbusiness. He even kept old man Greeley on the payroll asforeman. But progress could not be stopped, and with it, thegovernment grew, especially with the entry into the great war.(This war was later to be known as the War to End All Wars.) Itseemed that every aspect of life needed a government agency tocontrol it, and each agency needed to write reports. The demandfor paper products increased proportionally! Standard gauge railswere laid into the mill so larger shipments could be handled.More clerks were hired and an auxiliary office was installedbeside the original one.
As the years went by, a new chipping shed was added, alongwith a larger chip storage bin. The increase in the sizes of therail cars justified the larger pulp storage building. Alwayswanting to keep things as they were, Quincy refused to removethe rails from beside the main building, after all, there may be alarge piece of machinery that needs to be delivered directly intothe mill. So a removable bridge was built between the mill andstorage building over the rails. No one ever remembers this bridgebeing removed, but the possibility made Quincy happy!
So the Hyde Pulp Mill became a doorway to the past. Manyof the processes and methods used here have not changed since
the beginning of the twentieth century. Improvements came onlyafter they were completely cost justified, and often over the loudcomplaints of Quincy. Hopefully, things will never change.
The Pulping ProcessThe Hyde Pulp Mill uses the chemical process to break downthe wood chips into pulp. This process was the kraft processwhich first appeared in the late 1800’s. The process was namedkraft because it is the German word for strength, and the nameis still used today for the strong brown paper. It produced astronger, lighter and cheaper pulp, yet darker in color, than theearlier chemical methods.
In this kraft process, sodium sulfate is chemically reducedto sulfide, which is then introduced into the cooking liquid. Thisspeeds the process of breaking down the pulp chips. While nottrying to get into the heavy chemistry of it all, it seems that thealkali concentration in the cooking liquid, and the hightemperatures, 155-1750, do most of the work breaking downthe chips.
Here at the Hyde Pulp Mill, the day starts with the chippingcrew working on the latest load of pulp wood. At the chippingshed, they strip off the bark, which is stored for resale to thelocal tannery, wash off the dirt, and run the logs into the chipper.Chips will vary in size, but the best ones should be ¼” x ¾” toget the best pulp. Oversized chips are run through the chipper asecond time, and those considered too small for the good pulp,are fed into the firebox of the boiler.
From the chip storage bin, an auger brings chips into themain building. There they are again screened for size and loadedinto the digester. This digester is a simple pressure tank that willhold the chips, water, and chemicals while they cook. Thisprocess takes around eight hours.
After draining, the pulp is washed and dried, thencompressed into slabs. These slabs are stacked, wrapped, andwired for shipping to the paper mill. Mr. Hyde moved thewrapping process to the shipping/storage building when it wasbuilt. The slabs are moved by cart from the main building to the
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General InformationSerial NumberSince this kit is a limited-edition, it has beenassigned a serial number.Please reference thisnumber when contactingus about this kit.
WarrantyAll R.L.W. products are guaranteed against defects inmanufacturing and will be replaced or repaired as determined byR.L.W. after inspection of the part. ContactR.L.W. for a returnauthorization prior to returning any damaged parts.
R.L.W.. will also replace parts that are damaged duringassembly. This part of the warranty is voided if the kit has beenmodified in any way.Drop OutsThe laser-cut sheets may look like pieces are missing, but theseholes are intentional. The opening for windows, doors, etc., areremoved by the laser to make building this kit easier. These wastepieces, called drop outs, may still be clinging to the sheet and fallout when touched. Save them for use as clutter and scraps whendoing the final detailing.
Repetitive StepsEvery different procedure or method is discussed in detail in theinstructions; however, once it has been discussed, it is notrepeated in detail again.
Dimensions and DirectionsAll dimensions specified in the text are actual feet and inchesunless used with the word “scale” before or after them.
Specific parts are referenced by compass directions—North,South, East, and West—with the structure oriented with thewaterside dock on the south side and the main building runningeast to west.
Atmospheric ConditionsWood and paper products are effectively live materials on whichhumidity and temperature changes will change the size of partsslightly. Our Florida climate is moist so you may find minorchanges in the proportion of the parts when moved to a dryerclimate.
End User InformationThis kit is not intended for use by novice modelers, or individualsunder the age of 18 without the supervision of an adult.Additionally, the modeler assumes all liability regarding the properuse of this product or any product suggested. The user mustbecome familiar with the kit instructions, and instructions on anyproduct used to complete this kit. Please read and follow all safetyprocedures for all products used to finish this kit.Color PalletThe basic colors are from the Floquil railroad colors line exceptas noted. You may follow our suggested pallet:
Paints: Light Green El Maroon Grimy BlackEarth Antique White Old SilverConcrete Caboose Red Reefer Gray
shipping building.From this process, not only is pulp the result, but several
by-products are created. Turpentine is recovered from thedigester in the form of vapor. This is decanted to remove thewater, and sold to chemical processors. At the Hyde Pulp Mill,turpentine is stored in the vertical tank until a tank car load isstockpiled. Another product from the resin of pine trees is talloil. This is separated from the liquid used to cook the chips. Talloil is shipped from Hyde in 55-gallon drums.
Another by-product of the pulp mill is one no one wants;the smell. The kraft process generates hydrogen sulfide, whichsmells like rotten eggs, and spreads out for miles! There are nosigns pointing to the Hyde Pulp Mill; everyone just uses theirnose.
Smook, Gary A. Handbook for Pulp & Paper Technologists. Vancouver:Angus Wilde Publication, Inc, 1992
Rail OperationOriginally, service to the mill was provided by the McCabeLumber Co. railroad, a three-foot narrow gauge line owned byJohn McCabe of the Coon Gap Sawmill fame. Later, with theincrease of incoming pulpwood and resulting outgoing pulp, astandard gauge line was also run to the mill. Since it was built tonarrow gauge clearances, some difficulty exists with standardgauge equipment.
In the early days, narrow gauge pulpwood cars arrived onthe single track, and the pulpwood was dumped by hand behindthe mill. Here it was debarked, and fed into the steam-poweredchipper. A simple conveyor carried the chips into the mainbuilding and the awaiting digestor. Finished pulp slabs wereloaded into narrow gauge box cars at the large south-side freightdoor. Usually two loads of pulpwood arrived per day and a boxcar load of pulp left every Monday morning. A box car load ofbagged chemicals would arrive every week or so. Naturally, aflat car or gondola with new equipment or large replacementparts would arrive when needed.
As the operation grew, so did the need for more rail service.The addition of the standard gauge track allowed larger cars toservice the mill, and faster deliveries. However, the closeclearances prevented the standard gauge box cars from comingdirectly to the loading door. And the increased size of these carsmeant that they had to stay on the property longer to be filled.This bothered Mr. Hyde, so additional pulp storage was addedin a second building. This allowed the accumulation of a boxcar load of outgoing pulp before ordering the car to arrive. Andevery couple of weeks a triple-dome tank car would arrive tocarry off the accumulated turpentine.
The traffic to the mill consists of:Incoming
Pulpwood Flat, Gon, WoodrackBags of Chemicals Box CarDrums of Chemicals, Oils Box Car, Gon, FlatBoxes of Parts, Equipment Box Car, Gon, Flat
OutgoingPulp Slabs Box CarTurpentine Tank CarDrums of Extracts Box Car
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Depot Buff Rust Engine BlackRail Brown Reefer White C&O BlueReefer Yellow Sears Camel Tan LatexTrue Test Flat Black EnamelWoodland Scenics' Mini-Scene Paint Set
Stains: Maple Mahogany Walnut
Naturally, you may use any colors you wish. Just remember thatflat, dull colors are preferable to loud bright colors for arealistically-finished model. Some colors apparent in the photosare mixtures of two or more of the basic colors. These mixturesare used only on detail items and are not critical.
On the Hyde Pulp Mill, Light Green was used for the walls,Concrete for the trim, doors, and windows, Grimy Black on thethree-tab shingles #1011, and Earth on the random #1001shingles. The Light Green used on each building was varied byadding small amounts of yellow and white. The turpentine tankwas painted in Old Silver.
On all door and window frames, the same procedure is followed.After gluing the frames, headers, and sills in place, dress theinside edges with an emery board, then paint the inside edges tomatch the trim color. This should be done prior to the installationof the window sashes.
Weathering StainsThe gray weathering stain formula used is based on experiencewith laser-cut components and castings. Too dark a formula ofweathering stain against a relatively-light finish coat will tend tooveremphasize laser-engraved nail holes. You may wish to trythis weathering stain formula.
• Obtain a one ounce empty Floquil bottle or similar bottle. • Fill your bottle about 3/4 full with denatured alcohol. • Add approximately 30 drops of India ink and mix well.
This Alcohol & India Ink (A&I) stain will be used throughoutthe weathering of this kit. If it needs to be slightly darkened, justadd more ink. However, it is a good practice to re-stain an objectrather than use a stain which might be too dark. This stain shouldbe used on all of the castings after painting them, and after finalplacement to mute the colors realistically.
The second stain is a reddish-brown. Using the same procedurelist above, substitute brown shoe dye for the India ink to createan Alcohol & Dye (A&D) stain.
CastingsThe castings in our kits are made most often of metal. However,they may also be injection-molded styrene or cold-cast urethane.These latter two types of parts must be washed with warm soapywater instead of lacquer thinner. It is also very important tothoroughly rinse them after washing them. Urethane parts maybe sanded and filed easily, but the dust should not be inhaled!Paint all styrene parts with Barrier before painting them withother Floquil paints. Urethane parts may be directly painted withFloquil paints. Several alloys are used to produce parts for ourkits. All the metal parts should be handled with care as dentingand breakage may occur if they are dropped.
WARNING: The metal castings in this kit may contain veryminute levels of lead. Most of the castings in this kit are now99.5% or more lead free. But to be on the safe side, keep allparts away from pets and small children, don’t lick your fingerswhile building this kit, and always wash your hands afterhandling the castings!
Cleaning the metal castings is quite easy. Several jewelers’ filesand a sharp hobby knife work well for this procedure. After youhave completed the initial cleanup of parting lines, sprues andflash, wash all the castings in lacquer thinner, or denaturedalcohol, and allow them to dry. Handle these after washing bywearing gloves or using some other protection to avoid gettingthem contaminated with the oils from your hands.
Many of the metal castings in the scene were treated with Blacken-It according to the product instructions. The chemical reactionbetween the Blacken-It and the metal creates a very realisticweathered-metal finish. Additionally, all metal castings can betreated in this manner to provide greater paint adhesion.
Painting the castings is quite easy and can be accomplishedwith a brush or airbrush. A good base coat will be created byairbrushing your castings with Floquil Earth or light gray paint.Choose relatively dull colors for your castings. Models tend tolook more realistic using shades such as Coach Green, El Maroon,Grimy Black, etc. by Floquil, or similar dull shades. Rarely shouldyou consider using bright colors in model scenes. Subtle colorsare closer to reality.
Some of the castings may be finished with the powdered rustmaterial in your kit as a final weathering touch. This specialmixture is highly effective, and a little of it goes a very, long way.When it is applied to a dry flat surface, it will adhere permanentlywith no glue or sprays. Be careful, it will adhere to furniture,carpet and clothing also! Use a clean soft, bristle brush to applyit in moderation to castings needing a rusted appearance.
Wood Grain and ColorWood grain is just one of several items that is well worth the timenecessary to apply it and gives a proper look and feel to a woodstructure. It will look better if the wood grain goes on after theinitial base color coat. The addition of wood grain will also makethe nail holes on a given wall less prominent. Please rememberthat wood grain should only be applied to parts representingwood on the finished model.
1. Use a sharp hobby knife to apply the wood grain.
2. Add two to three lines of wood grain per laser-cut board orlaser-scored board. Do this by beginning at the end of a scaleboard and working to the other end in one continuous line. Donot try to make these lines straight, but rather just try to stay onthat board. Slight waviness is exactly the result you will want.
3. A base coloration of thinned light gray is used for all of thewooden components in this kit not specified to be a specificcolor. Some folks think it is necessary to sand the black edges offof all of the laser-cut parts. Not true. If you follow ththe edges ofparts before assembly. Laser-cut edges can be base-colored with
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Antique White prior to applying a light color. This will easilyhide any burned edges. Random additions of stains such as Oak,Maple, Rosewood, Natural Pine, etc., will add realistic variationsto the model’s coloration. Leaks and wet areas can be simulatedby adding stains which are darker than the base Driftwood color.A final wash of weathering stain will blend everything together.
An alternate method for final weathering, rather than using theweathering stain, is to use powdered charcoal found at an artsupply store. One can will last a lifetime! You will also need a 1”wide soft brush. Never use this brush for anything other thancharcoal work. And never wash this brush! Use your brush todust all exterior surfaces of the model. Brush and blow off excesscharcoal. Practice on scrap material prior to dusting the model.The proper effect will darken the model slightly and will darkenthe wood grain lines added to the model.
Tools Required for AssemblyTools required for this kit: Hobby knife and sharp blades (we buysurgical blades from the pharmacy - very, very sharp and extremelythin), sanding block/emery boards, metal straight edge/hobbyscale, glues (ACC, wood cement, matte medium, silicon sealer, 5-Minute Epoxy), paints/stains, assorted twist drills and pin vise.
SandingIt has been said that sanding is not necessary on a laser-cut kit.This is not true! Proper sanding makes the difference between akit simply assembled and one that shows the touch of a truemaster craftsman. While the laser can cut precisely, the amountand types of glue used in assembly can alter the fit. Dressing theedges with a quick pass of the sandpaper will greatly improvethe appearance of the finished model. Always keep an assortmentof sand papers and emery boards in your tool box. Grits rangingfrom 200 to 600 will be helpful. Just about all exposed joints needto be dressed with fine sandpaper like 600-grit. This will greatlyimprove the appearance of the model.
The BaseThe buildings are designed to all sit on the same level. And it isexpected that the track will sit on the same level also without anyroadbed. If you are using roadbed, you will need to consider theheight of it, and adjust the bases of the buildings accordingly.
Photos In many of the photos, the parts have not been painted. Thiswas intentional to help show off the different pieces easier. Insome cases, the photos show a model that looks slightly differentfrom the final, improved version. This will not affect the assemblyof the kit.
Aged Corrugated.To prepare the corrugated material, begin by obtaining ArcherEtchant, or a similar product, sold in stores such as Radio Shack.Obtain one of those disposable brushes with the cheap metalhandle which will sell for about $0.20 at the hardware store. It willget ruined. Warning - this stuff is acid and will burn skin. Please— please! — read the instructions on the label and wear safetyclothing and glasses.
Lay out some newspaper, place the corrugated metal on thenewspaper and pour some of the etchant into a plastic container.
Dip your brush into the etchant and cover the entire surface ofthe corrugated metal. You will notice, after a few seconds, a quickreaction will take place on the surface, turning it shades of gray.This reaction will stop after a few minutes because the chemicalwill be used up. Next, wash the corrugated metal thoroughly withwater. If you find some shiny spots, repeat the process in justthese areas. The metal should look totally flat with areas of grayand dark gray, and after it dries, a nice rusty color will appear.
Cut the corrugated metal into strips which are scale 3’ widewith a sharp hobby knife. Glue the strips to the model using clearor black GE Silicone II sealer/glue. It can be purchased in smalltubes at home improvement stores. This material sets up quicklybut still allows you time to work with the pieces. It requires just asmall amount, and being that it is of gel consistency, it helps tohold the pieces in place until dry. Attach the corrugated metal tothe roof overlapping the edges of each piece. Allow a scale 2” -3” overhang at the bottom of the roof. Trim a piece about 18 scaleinches wide and bend in the middle lengthwise to form a ridgecap where needed.
GluingTitebond, a brand name of strong wood glue, is used to assemblethe large components in this kit. The residue from this glue willhave a yellow tint, so be sure to clean up any excess. White glueis used to attach the smaller parts as this glue will dry clear.When applying glue to the smaller parts, it is best to use atoothpick to apply a thin layer of glue to the back of the parts andthen press them in place on the structure. Any excess glue canbe wiped off with a damp cotton swab.
Window GlassWindow sashes for this kit are on the “Y” sheet of self-adhesiveplywood. The way to glaze them is different from previous kits,and is much easier than trying to align a small piece of pre-cutstyrene behind a small window sash. Simply remove the sashfrom the carrier sheet, peel off the protective backing, and pressfirmly in place on the large, clear styrene sheet close to an edge.Trim the sash from the sheet by leaving a 1/16” or so border ofclear styrene around the edges of the sash. This will form a tab touse for gluing the window in place from inside the building.
Double-hung windows are treated just a bit differently. Theglass on the upper sashes of double-hung windows will need tobe trimmed flush with the edges as these are installed from theoutside after the lower sash is installed from the inside. And onthe lower sashes, while the outer frame is the size of the entirewindow opening, glazing needs to be added to the bottom partonly.
ShinglesThe shingles in this kit are laser-cut, self-adhesive cardstock.The shingles peel away fromthe backing very easily, butbe careful in handling themas they can adhere veryquickly to each other. Linesare scribed on the roof cardsto help align the shinglescorrectly. Stashould alwaysoverlap the lower layer andbe offset about half a shingle
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width. Firmly press the shingles in place when finishing eachsection. Trim the shingles close to the end of the roof, and usethe remainder from each row to start the next row up. Finish theroofs’ left and right edges by trimming the shingles to withinabout one scale inch of the edge of the roof.
There are two types of shingles included in this kit. The onemarked #1001 is the random cedar shingles to be used on theroof of the pump house, and most of the other buildings. exceptwhere noted.
After the final assembly, the roof peaks require a roof cap strip.There is a strip on the bottom of each shingle sheet that is scoredin the center for easy folding. Peel this from the sheet as you didthe shingles, center it on the roof peak, and press in place.
Stain the roof with the colors appropriate to your application. Itis important to note that excessive use of solvents may causesome lifting of the shingles. Use solvents in moderation, and inaccordance with their manufacturers’ instructions. A good methodis to airbrush a light coat of a base color on the shingles, allow itto dry, then follow up with dry-brushing of a lighter shade toaccent the shingles. A final dry brushing with powdered charcoalgives the roof the appearance of weathered cedar shingles. If theshingles do start to lift, a small amount of white glue applied intothe cracks with a toothpick, will quicklyset them back down.
Corner TrimThe corners of most buildings are dressedoff with trim. These trim pieces are cut tosize, and in many cases, each corner hasone piece of trim that is wider than theother piece. The narrow piece should beinstalled on the wall with the edge of thetrim flush with the edge of the walls. Followby installing the wider corner trim and haveit overlap the edge of the previously-installed trim piece. Dress the corners withthe emery board, then touch up the paint.
Roof Vents and SmokejacksSince these things stick up and often getin the way, it is best to attach them securelyto the roof. First, make sure the angle ofthe base matches that of the roof. Often a small bit of filing will beneeded. Then drill a small hole in the bottom and ACC in place ashort length of wire. Drill a small hole in the roof at the mountinglocation, then apply an ample amount of ACC to the wireextending from the casting. Press the casting in place and holduntil dry. Finish the mounting by filleting the joint between thecasting and roofing with black plastic rubber, a semiliquid that isavailable at automotive supplies for patching rubber gaskets. Onthe model, it looks like roofing tar!
Circuit BoardsStandard kits include a small circuit board to drive the lightingsystem. This circuit board controls three lamp circuits and eachof the circuits turns on at slightly different times. This circuitboard includes a photocell which reads the light level in yourroom. When the lights in your room are dimmed, or turned off,
the lights in the model are triggered by the photo cell. The photocell is adjustable by turning the orange potentiometer with asmall screw driver. This unit must be placed so that it can ‘see’the room light.
A total of five 1.5 volt lamps are included in this kit. Two lampsare used on the light poles, one is for under the chipping shedroof, and the other two are for interior lighting, if desired. Placethese last two in the buildings of your choice while doing theconstruction. Consider having access to the lamps in case ofburnout. Additional 1.5 volt micro-lamps may be added in seriesto the three circuits for lighting in other buildings.
Silver EditionsThe Silver Edition version of this kit is something truly special!Silver Edition kits include an on-board computer with ROMprogramming. This computer can run a series of separate lightingchannels, and includes a programmable fast clock with full 24-hour fast clock sequence sound! Additional instructions are inthe back of the SE kit manuals.
Building LocationsWe have designed this kit to give you some freedom in placement.Every building can be placed in one of several configurations, orused elsewhere on your layout. Here is the layout:
1 Main Building 2 Office 3 Boiler House 4 Shipping/Storage 5 Chip Storage Bin 6 Chipping Shed 7 Pump House - Tank Car Loading Stand 8 Repair Shed 9 Floating Dock10 Turpentine Tank
It is possible to place the Chipping Shed where the Pump Houseis located and turn the conveyor so that it runs parallel to thetrack. The Shipping/Storage building can be on the other side ofthe mill. The office can be a stand-alone structure. And thepossibilities go on and on. You can make this facility fit your areaeasily!
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The Main Building
This is the second pulp mill Mr. Hyde has built on this piece ofground. The first was lost in a fire. This second one followedthe basic design of the first, but featured the new, fire-resistantshingles that had just come on the market. As with the first mill,this one was originally serviced by the McCabe Lumber Co.railroad, a three-foot narrow gauge line. Later, with the increaseof incoming pulpwood and resulting outgoing pulp, a standardgauge line was also run to the mill. Since it was built to narrowgauge clearances, some difficulty exists with access by standardgauge equipment.
Easiest thing is to do like the real builders; start at the groundand work up! The foundation cross members (A-19, A-45)should be glued between foundation sides (A-20). Keep thescribed lines on the side and exterior cross members (A-45) onthe outside. After the glue has set, add the floor (A-21). Thevertical trim pieces (P-7, P-8) are now glued at the corners, andover the holes that hold the cross members. Keep the top of thetrim pieces level with the top of the foundation.
The first story of the main building consists simply of sides (A-23, A-28) and ends (A-7, A-6). Glue these together to form abox making sure that the east end (A-7) is in the right place; thesiding differs on this end, so it is hard to miss. Glue this boxonto the foundation; it will slip down over the floor, and rest ontop of the foundation sides.
Add the door frames (F-15, F-18, F-24) to the first floor. Theheaders (F-16, F-19, F-25) glue as an overlay across the top ofthe frame. The thresholds (F17, F-20, F-26) glue to the bottomof the openings. Use the trim color to paint the inside edges ofthe door openings.
Build the doors by carefully gluing the fronts (F-13, F-21, F-30)to the door backs (F-14, F-22, F-31). On the freight doors, ablank spot exists on the top and left side of the back to makegluing these in place easier. Center the door front over the scribedarea. Add the transom (F-23) across the top of the “people” door.These doors simply glue behind the openings. The freight doorsrepresent sliding types, so they can be glued in any number ofpositions. There are no external handles on these freight doors.The “people” door gets a brass door knob.
Add the trim for the two small windows, frames (F-7), headers(F-9), and sills (F-8), as you did the door components andtouchup the paint. Add the sash (Y-10) for these windows. Gluethem in place from the inside of the structure.
Glue the two top supports (A-26) between the walls of the firstfloor approximately four inches from each end. They should belower than the top edge to clear the second floor. Note that thereare two holes in the single story part of the east end. One ofthese will be the input from the chip storage bin, and the otherwill be covered with the warehouse vent casting. For now, leavethem alone.
The second story section consists of ends (A-2, A-12) and sides(A-1, A-8). Glue these together to form a box. Since the eastend of the building is higher than the west, an end piece is neededfor the higher section. Glue the wall (A-14) in place betweenthe sides, and attach the rafter support (A-16) directly against iton the west side.
The extended gable on the west end consists of the soffet (A-3)which glues in place at a 900 angle on top of the west wall. Thebrace (A-4) glues to this, then the gable wall (A-13) glues to thebrace. Keep the lower edge flush with the soffet and centered,and make sure that all parts are perpendicular.
The second floor (A-18) may have a tendency to warp. Thereare seven joists (A-22)which can be glued onedge to the underside ofthe floor - opposite thescribing - to add stability.Make sure that these joistsare centered from side toside on the floor or theywill prevent the secondstory from properly fittingon the first story. Spacethe joists evenly down thefloor, stopping one inch infrom each end.
Install the supportbrackets (A-9) along thebottom sides of the floor(A-18); the scribing on thefloor should be on the opposite side from the brackets. Thesebrackets fit into the holes cut into the floor. Make sure to keepthem square and straight. The end of the floor uses a slightlydifferent support bracket (A-10). Once this assembly is dry, thesecond story section slides down over the floor and is supportedby the brackets. Glue the floor in place.
7
8
The second story assembly glues to the top of the first storyassembly. Be careful when installing; it is easy to snag one ofthe support brackets and break them off. The tall east end of thesecond story should be flush against the extended sides of theeast end of the first story.
The three round holes in the second floor of the north wall arefor the exhaust fans. Glue the fan (U-16) centered on the bracket(U-19). On the same side as the fan, glue the spacer (U-18) tothe bracket. This assembly is glued behind the round holes. Thecover plates (U-17) go on the outside centered over each hole.The fans and cover plates look good painted light gray.
Add the freight door (F-13, F-14) and trim (F-15, F-16, F-17) asdiscussed earlier. The hoist arm (C-4) goes above this freightdoor. To look good, this part needs to be a snug fit, so themounting pin needs to be sanded slightly to a taper to slide intothe hole. Add the support brace made from 0.012” wire runningfrom the top of the vertical post to the outer end of the arm.
Glue on the window trim (F-10, F-11, F-12, F-27, F-28, F-29)as discussed earlier. The seven large windows(Y13) represent the type that is hinged acrossthe middle allowing the top to swing inward andthe bottom outward. If you model these windowsclosed, proceed as described earlier and allow atab to be around the entire sash. If you wish tohave some or all open, simply trim the clearstyrene up to the edge of the sash except for twosmall ears at the middle of the sides of the sash.These ears will form a pivot point for the sashand give you something to glue to the wall. Installthe gable window (Y14) in the standard way.
The bay window on the west end is the onlyextravagance that Mr. Hyde allowed whenbuilding the mill. He had always wanted a baywindow, so he had one installed. Glue the baywindow formers (A-25) in place from inside thebuilding at the top and bottom of the windowopening. The sashes (Y-11) are attached to theclear styrene with it trimmed flush with the sashedges. The three frames (Y-12) are self-adhesivealso. Carefully center each one over a sash, andpress firmly in place. Starting with the middlewindow, center the sash/frame assembly over the forms and pressin place. It should be flush with the soffet at the top, and withthe bottom of the lower former (A-25) at the bottom. Add theside assemblies taking care to keep the edges of the frames flushand square with the middle one. A toothpick can be used tofillet white glue on the joints of the frames from the back foradded strength. The two bay supports (A-27) glue to the bottomof the lower former.
Window coverings can be pull-down roller shades cut from thebeige card stock included in the kit, or as done in Mr. Hyde’soffice, curtains can be formed from tissue. Glue either of thesematerials to the walls above the windows. While no interior wasdesigned for this kit, you should install some light blocks. Usesmall pieces of black or beige cardstock to form interior wallsthat prevent someone from looking completely through thebuilding. If using black, these can be installed about four scalefeet back from the window and give a feeling of depth.
Install the corner trim (F-1, F-2, F-3, F-4, F-5, F-6) as indicatedin the parts list. The pieces with the angles cut to match the roofshould be applied first, keeping the outer edge flush with theside of the structure. The second piece for each corner willoverlap the exposed edge of the first piece. For a well-maintainedfinish on the structure, smear a small amount of wood glue overthe crack between the two pieces, and when dry, sand smooth.Touchup the paint. One note of caution, make sure that the westend roof panels (M-3) will fit under the F-5 trim piece on thewest wall of the highest part of the structure.
Four brackets (A-11) are included to finish off the west end.Two of these brackets go under the soffet at the outer edges ofthe gable end, and the other two fit under the west end first flooroverhang at the corners.
The clerestory is built from the five ribs (A-5) and two sub-sides (H-29). Paint the windows the trim color, and using whiteglue, install the window glass (eight laser-cut pieces) behindthem. The clerestory roof (M-2) should be shingled with the
three-tab shingles, painted, then glued in place on the ribs. Afterthe glue has set, add the cap across the top joint of the roof usingthe cap strip along each page of shingles. Touchup the paint,and weather the shingles.
The sides (A-24) are glued over the sub-sides, keeping all partssquare. The ends (H-27) will cover the edge of the side whenglued in place. The vertical posts (H-28) frame the windows onthe sides, and the end posts will cover the edge of the end piece(H-27).
There are laser-cut marks along the edges of the roofs to markthe places for the rafters. Now is the time to hold the roofs (M-1, M-3, E-1) against the sides of the building in their properposition and, using a sharp pencil, transfer the small laser marksalong the edge to the walls near the top edge. Remember, thesemarks on the roof cards will be covered with shingles before therafters can be installed!
West End
9
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The clerestory is built from the five ribs (A-5) and twosub-sides (H-29). The 1/16” sides, A-24, fit between theend overlays (H-27) which glue directly to the end ribs.The laser-cut styrene pieces glue to the inside of thewindow sashes between the ribs.
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Shingle the three roofs (M-1,M-3, E-1) with the three-tabshingles. Leave a smallamount of shingle material atthe top of the east end roof (E-1) that can be bent up againstthe wall. Glue this roof (E-1)in place on the building.
Glue the roof pieces (M-3) forthe west end to the internalsupport rafters (A-15). Whendry, glue this assembly to thebuilding. There are threeinternal supports (A-17) forthe center roof (M-1). Gluethese together, keepingeverything square. Cap thepeaks with the cap strip fromthe shingle sheet.
The clerestory assembly slidesinto the hole in this roof. It is easier to glue it in place nowbefore attaching the roof to the building. Make sure that theclerestory assembly slides in as far as it will go. After the gluedries, glue this piece in place on the building. Note - You maywish to leave this roof section removable and place the lightboard inside this building. If you do, position the photocell nextto one of the windows.
Install the two long rafters (F-41) under the edges of the eastend roof (E-1). Add the other rafters (F-40) under the roofoverhang, placing them at the pencil marks made earlier.
The eave trim on the gable roofs consists of the two boards (F-37) and a “V” brace (F-36) which goes behind them at the peak.It is easier to glue the brace to the underside of the roof, then
when it is dry, add the trim boards. These should be inset fromthe edge about 4 scale inches.
Install the rafters (F-42) under the gable roofs on the pencil marksmade earlier.
The roof walks consist of the supports (H-30), and long (H-32)and short (H-31) walks. There are small tabs holding the twowalkway boards together; use these as locators to mark the topof the roofs for the locations of the supports. Glue the supportsin place, and the walkways on top of them.
Access to the roof is via the hatch. The hatch consists of thebase (K-35) and hatch (K-34). Glue them together with the basecentered under the hatch. Glue this assembly to the west end
roof, approximately six scale feet from thepeak.
Assemble the three roof access ladders fromrails (K-31, K-32) and rungs (K-33). Oneladder runs from the side of the hatch to theroof walk, and the other two are used wherethe roof height changes. You may wish totrim the height of these last two ladders tomore closely match the height of the roofs.
The four large wood barrels should bepainted red and mounted on the walks.
The water tank on the roof supplies the boilerhouse. The two interior braces (A-71) slideinto each other, and then a tank former (A-70) is glued to each end. The tank wrapper(F-35) can be placed in water for a fewminutes, then wrapped around a round object- about ¾” in diameter - and held in placewith rubber bands until dry. This will set theshape and make gluing to the formers easier.When dry, glue the wrapper to the formers.Add the top (F-34), and the hatch (F-33) onthe top. The large finial can be installed in
North Side
East End
11
the center, if desired. Use the styrene strips to form the tankbands, gluing one end down, wrapping around, then cuttingand gluing the second end to form a butted joint.
The water tank rests on a base consisting of two supports (C20)spaced three scale feet apart. These are tied together with fivejoists (A-74) which are spaced evenly. The cross braces (B-15) are added forming the “X” between the legs. Glue thisassembly to the roof on the side of the building were the boilerhouse will be located. Run the input pipe (0.046” wire) fromthe roof of the main building to the top of the tank, and theoutlet pipe (0.046” wire) from the bottom of the tank to theroof of the boiler house.
The large freight door on the south side has a small loadingdock. Glue the supports (C-21) to the bottom of the deck (B-11). This assembly glues to the side of the main building, justbelow the door threshold.
The small freight door on the northside gets the different porch. Glue thelegs (D-2) into the holes on the frame(D-1), then add the deck (F-47). Thedeck should be centered side-to-side,but flush with the back of the frameallowing the boards to overhang theframe on the front. Glue this below thethreshold under the small freight door.
There are two options for the smallfreight door on the west end. A secondporch, as just built for the north side,or a larger dock and rampcombination. This ramp can be placedstraight out from the main building,or at a right angle to it. Or it can bebuilt and used elsewhere on the layout.
This west end dock is created by gluing the three dock supports(Z-2) to the bottom of the deck (A-31) making sure the deckboards run across the three supports. The two end supports shouldbe set in from the deck edge about six scale inches.
Assemble the west end ramp by gluing the supports (Z-3) to thebottom of the deck (A-33). The outer supports should be set inabout six scale inches from the deck edge. Glue this assembly tothe dock. Add the dock trim (H-25) to the two exposed sides ofthe dock just under the deck. Attach the braces (H-26) as shown.
There are several sets of stairs to be built. Included in this kit isthe stair jig which will hold the stair carriages while the treadsare glued in place. Simply slide the two jig ends (D-4) onto thecenter beam (D-3) and glue in place one-half inch apart. Slidethe stair carriages into the slots and align the ends. Pay attentionas there is a top and bottom to the carriage. The top has a smallnotch where the top tread fits.
For this main building, build three sets of stairs using carriages(F-43) and treads (F-44). One stair goes at the door on the east
end, and three others mounton one side of the docks onthe main building.
A boarded-up window isincluded for installation ifyou desire. Glue the braces(F-39) across the window(F-38). This can be glued tothe siding wherever youwant.
Roof details for the mainbuilding consist of two flat-top smoke jacks used asvents mounted near the eastend, and one tall smoke jackin the office area. Mountinglocation is not critical. It isbest to drill a small hole inthe bottom of these parts,and ACC into it a smalllength of 0.020” wire. This
South Side
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will add strength to the glue joint. Then drill a hole in the roofwhere the jack will be placed, and glue it in place. Pick up a tubeof black plastic rubber and use it around the base of the vent andjacks to represent roofing tar.
Additional piping was installed on the roof using 0.046” wire.Several straight pieces were used to represent vents. These werepainted light gray.
There are two unusual parts, pipe frames (A-102, A-103),included in this kit to help with the installation of exterior piping.The pulp mill uses large amounts of water, has liquids movingin various directions, and needs steam for heating. The 0.046”wire included in the kit can be used to represent some of thispiping. The pipe frames can be simply glued to the side of thebuilding and used as the entry point for piping. Add a smallNBW casting to the holes on the ends. On the pilot model, threepipes were run from the underside of the overhanging secondfloor into the ground. Additional ones were run from the secondfloor to the turpentine tank, and to the boiler house. Use yourimagination to add others as almost anything goes!
The Office
Since the growth of business for Mr. Hyde, a second office wasadded to the exterior of the main building. Originally, there wasan external staircase on the north side of the building. This wasremoved, and a raised office was added. The decision was madeto only raise the new office about half the height of the secondfloor. Time has lost the reason for this decision, but it must havebeen a good one at the time! A second staircase (not included) isinside the building and reaches into the second floor of the mainbuilding through an extension built on the roof of the office.
Glue the walls (A-76, A-78, A-80, A-81) together to form abox. The alcove walls (A-77, A-82) glue inside the open corner,and the alcove ceiling (A-79) sits down on top.
Assemble the frame work by gluing the floor supports (A-84)into the slots under the floor (D-5). Keep them perpendicular tothe floor. Add the long (H-1) and short (H-2) leg sway braces asshown in the North Side photo.
The wall assembly will fit over the floor and rest on the tops ofthe floor supports. Glue this together and add the alcove corner
support (A-83) which fitsbetween the west andsouth walls. The twofloor joists (H-22) glue tothe end floor supportsdirectly under the officewalls.
Install the windowframes (H-9, H-17),headers (H-10, H-18) andsills (H-11, H-19). Addthe door frame (H-14),header (H-15), andthreshold (H-16).
The door consists of a front (H-13) and back panel (H-12). Gluethe back panel to the lower part of the door, and glue a smallpiece of clear styrene to the upper part. Add the door knob, andglue into the door frame from the inside.
Install the window sashes. The lower sashes (Y-7) and smallwindow (Y-9) are installed, after glazing, from the inside. Theupper sashes (Y-8) are glazed, glass trimmed flush with the sashedges, and glued into the window frame from the outside. Asmall amount of white glue on the sides will hold them in place.Finish the interior window dressings as done in the main building.
Add the long corner trim (H-3) pieces to the three standardcorners. The short trim (H-21) is used to dress the corners of thealcove.
Use the roof to mark the rafter locations on the top edge of thewalls as was done on the main building. The roof (L-1)installation requires a decision on placement first. If the officeis to be butted against the main building, there is a section of theroof, a small box marked with an “X,” that must first be trimmedout to clear the side of the main building. If the office standsalone, do not cut the notch in the roof.
Apply the three-tab shingles to the four roof sections and trimthem along the edges of the fold lines. Fold the roof along thesedeep lines, and glue the two open edges together. A small pieceof lightweight cardstock (not supplied) can be used to form aconnector under the joint. When dry, glue the roof centered ontop of the office walls. Apply the shingle ridge caps to the cornerjoints first, then the top one caps it all off.
Install the rafters (H-20) under the edges of the roof wheremarked. At the corners, a rafter should be placed in line with theroof ridges. If the roof has been notched to clear the mainbuilding, no rafters should be placed there.
There are two lengths of stair carriages (H-7, H-8) included forthe office. If you decide to use the large west end dock andramp, and wish to have the office stairs connect to this dock, usethe short carriages. If the stairs should go all the way to the
North Side
13
Southeast View
ground, use the longer ones. Assemble either to the treads (H-6)using the stair jig. Glue to the edge of the porch, and add the twoposts and one railing (H-4, H-5). A small amount of the treadedge will need to be removed to clear the posts.
One the roof, install the smoke jack and vent pipe (0.046” wire).From the floor directly under the vent pipe, run another piece of0.046” wire into the ground for the sewer pipe.
If the office is to be attached to the main building, the stairenclosure needs to be added to the roof. Glue the interior brace(B-14) to roof (B-13), and then add the sides (B-12) with theroof centered between them. Cover the stair enclosure roof withblack roofing material. It is easier to glue this part in place as thetwo buildings are joined. It will be necessary to remove two ofthe rafters from the main building.
The Boiler House
One of the original buildings that still stands is the simple boilerhouse. Here, a simple water-tube boiler provides the steam heatneeded to cook the chips. And additional steam is used for heatingand operating some auxiliary equipment. The fire is fed fromthe chips that cannot be used in the pulping process. A four-inch pipe delivers these chips from the main building with thehelp of a small amount of air pressure. Water is received froman underground pipe from the pump house, and in case ofemergencies when the pump goes out, gravity feed from thetank on top of the main building.
This building consists of a core of laser-cut heavy cardstockoverlaid with thin plywood. Assemble the four core walls (S-1through S-4) and allow them to dry. Glue the side overlays (R-1, R-2) in place, then after they are dry, glue on the end overlays(R-3, R-4); these will overlap the side pieces. When all is dry,gently sand the corners for a smooth fit. If not already done,paint the siding.
Paint the doors, window, and frames the trim color. Glue theframe (R-7) around the window and apply the header (R-9) tothe top of the frame. This window is a tilt-out type and thecovering (R-8) can be glued in place closed or open after gluingthe brace (R-11) to the scribed side. Glue it at the top.
Both door openings receive a frame (R-5) and header (R-6).The doors (R-10, X-32) can be assembled as is to represent closeddoors, or after the glue sets, they can be cut apart and glued intothe frame in an open position. Add a door handle to the doorwith the hole; the other door is latched on the inside and doesnot need a handle. The doors glue into the openings flush withthe inside wall.
The foundation (S-5) and floor (S-6) of the boiler house isconcrete. Line up the hole in the floor for the base of the stackwith the circle on the foundation and glue in place. Paint withConcrete.
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Glue the sub-roof (S-8), centered on the bottom, to the roof (S-7). An outline is provided to help with alignment. Get everythinglined up, let the glue start to get tacky, then put the assemblyunder a tall stack of booksfor the night. This will helpavoid a bad case of thewarps!
The black roof materialshould be cut into scale 18’x 3’ pieces. Start at the back- the lower edge - of the roofand work with one piece ata time. Allow an equalamount of overhang on eachside, and about scale 12” atthe back. Place it in positionand fold around the edges.On the back and frontpieces, the corners will needto be snipped to allow aclean, sharp fold. Removethe piece from the roof andbend the crease to a sharp edge. Then glue the flat portion inplace, and when this is dry, fold and glue the edges. Clamp ituntil it is dry. Then proceed on to the next piece, overlappingthe previous one by 6-to-9-scale inches as you work toward thefront of the building. This will take a while, but other steps inthe construction can be done between pieces.
Glue the roof in place after making sure that none of the roofingmaterial will reach the walls. The roofing may need to be trimmedback a bit to insure that the roof sits completely down on thewalls. Trim the roofing material covering the stack opening towithin one scale foot of the edge of the opening. Paint the stackbase (2” brass tube) with Grimy Black, and when dry, push inplace into the roof from the bottom. This will cause the tar paperto flair out around the stack. Apply an ample amount of epoxyto the stack base hole in floor, and glue the wall assembly inplace on the foundation. Push the stack base into the epoxy-filled hole and insuring that it is straight, allow it to dry overnight.
Carefully moisten the tar paper around the stack with a smallbrush, and after applying a small amount of white glue, push thetar paper down around into the joint where the stack enters theroof. It should fill any openings, and any excess that stands upcan be trimmed with a sharp hobby knife. Apply a small amountof epoxy to represent sealer, and paint flat black.
Install the rest of the stack (6” brass tube) by gluing it into thetop of the stack base. It should be inserted only about ¼” andglued with epoxy or ACC.
Near the stack, place the steam vent, a 1/2" length of 0.046"wire. Drill a hole in the roof, and glue this pipe in place. At thecenter of the opposite end from the stack, add a mushroom roofvent.
There are three pipes that will eventually be installed on theboiler house. The first is a pipe (0.046” wire) coming from theback of the main building to the center of the boiler house roofopposite the stack end. This will be the shavings discharge pipewhere chips not suitable for pulping are used as fuel for the
boiler. The second pipe, a large cast “Z” pipe shown in the photo,will run from the roof near the stack to the main building; this isthe steam delivery pipe. It can enter the main building under thesecond floor overhang. The third is the emergency water deliverypipe from the tank on the roof of the main building; this too isbent from 0.046" wire. Neither of the 0.046” pipes are shown inthese photos; see the completed model photos. One of the pipesupports (A-85) can be trimmed to fit on the roof of the boilerhouse to help support this long pipe. The support has braces (H-23, H-24) glued to the sides. All will be added later when thefinal position of the buildings has been determined. And noneof the locations are critical so have some fun!
After the boiler house is installed on the layout, run some supportwires using magnet wire from the top of the stack down to somelocation on the ground. A point about four inches away fromthe stack will work well,and on the south side, thesupport wire can be run tothe side of the mainbuilding.
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The Shipping/Storage Building
Originally, the finished slabs of pulp were bailed and stored inthe main building. However, with the increase in the size ofboxcars, and the increased production of the mill, this storagearea was quickly outgrown. The new structure was built justacross the track from the main loading door, and since additionaloffice space was needed, a second story was included in thedesign.
While the original track beside the main building was rarelyneeded, the superintendent did not want to give up the possibleuse of the main loading door. Rather than a permanent platformconnecting the two buildings, a removable affair was designedand used. While the need to take it out has not happened, hefeels better knowing the opportunity exists.
Stain all the supports and braces dark brown; the floor can bemaple. Assemble the floor and supports by gluing the ninebuilding supports (Z-1) in place under the floor (N-9). Keepthese posts perpendicular to the floor. After they dry, add thecross braces (X-9), one on each side of the building supports.The lengthwise braces (X-10) connect the supports with onebrace starting near the bottom of the first brace and ending atthe top of the third.
Turn the side walls (V-1, V-6) over and, on the inside, mark ahorizontal line a scale 11’-4” up from the bottom edge on eachside. This will be the top of the floor joists which will be installedlater.
Assemble the five walls (V-1, V-2, V-3, V-5, V-6) after stainingwith the siding color. The first floor roof support (V-7) glues tothe end wall of the second floor. The long floor joists (V-14)glue in place with their top level with the line previously drawn.The shorter joists (V-13) glue crosswise into the slots.
Glue the wall assembly to the floor assembly. The walls slidedown over the floor and rest on the top edges of the supports.
The window frames (X-19, X-16) are applied now. Glue in placethe headers (X-14, H-18) and sills (X-15, X-17) in the bottom
of the window openings. Install the lower (Y-2) and upper (Y-3) window sashes, and the small window sash (Y-1) after glazing.A boarded-up window (X-12) and bracing (X-21) is included ifyou wish to add it.
The people door openings receive a frame (X-22), header (X-24), and threshold (X-23). Assemble the door parts (X-20, X-31) and add the brass door knobs. The doors glue into theopenings flush with the inside wall. Add the bumpers (V-9) underthe freight door openings flush with the edge of the opening.
Install the corner trim (X-2, X-3, X-4, X-6, X-7, X-8) basedupon the description in the parts list.
Glue in place the second floor (T-3). The notch in the cornerrepresents where the stair case (not included) should be placed.This notch should be against the east wall of the second floor.Add window dressing, blinds or curtains, as was done in theoffice.
The freight doors are assembled using the fronts (X-30) andbacks (X-13). There are four “Y” shaped door hangers in thedetail bags. Glue two of these to the tops of each door, keepingthe upper edge flush with the extended tabs of the door. Bendhandles from the 0.012” wire and install into the locations at thebottom.
The freight doors can be glued in place open or closed. Makethat decision and do it now. Once they are dry, add the doortracks (V-8) to the wall right above the doors. One end shouldbe just to the side of the door opening. Bend the two track covers(U-1) to a 900 angle, and glue in place on top of the track hangingdown over the tops of the door hangers. Glue a medium spikeinto each of the four holes beneath the doors to act as door guides;these keep the door from flying out from the building in a strongbreeze.
The two roofs are added next. The second story roof (T-2) has acenter support (V-4). Glue these together, and when dry, glue tothe top of the walls of the second story. The first story roof (T-1) simply glues to the walls.
The roofing is the sheet-metal rolled roofing. This is providedin a large pieces that must be cut to fit. Starting at the outsideedge of one of the ridges, mark a piece to fit each roof half andcut out with a new sharp knife blade. These four pieces shouldhave a rib on each end. Spray the top and edges of the roofingwith silver, light gray or Rail Brown depending upon yourweathering preferences. After they dry, glue them in placecentered on the roof; there should be a bit of overhang on theedges. A ridge cap can be cut from the excess material on theside of the roofing sheet. Cut a piece 20 scale inches wide andlong enough to fit each roof section. Paint like the roofing, benddown the middle, and glue in place on the roof ridge. Trim theends flush with the roofing material.
The eave trim on the gable roofs consists of the two boards (X-5) and a “V” brace (X-29) which goes behind them at the peak.It is easier to glue the brace to the underside of the roof, thenwhen it is dry, add the trim boards. These should be inset fromthe edge about 4 scale inches. The roof trim (X-1) glues to theeast wall where the metal roof meets the wall; it may be left off.It was left of the model by accident and it looks fine without it.
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The rafters (X-28) slide into the notches in the tops of the walls.Glue them in place with the ends flush with the edge of the roof.
Glue the T-top smoke jack to the roof. Using a length of 0.046"wire, add a vent for the restroom.
The east “people” door has a small porch. Glue the legs (V-11)into the holes on the frame (V-10), then add the deck (X-25).The deck should be centered side-to-side, but flush with the backof the frame allowing the boards to overhang the frame on thefront. Glue this below the threshold of each door.
The stair set consists of three carriages (X-26) and seven treads(X-27). Glue the carriages into the slots in the porch frame, andadd the treads. On the west end, A shorter stair (F-43, F-44) isincluded if the building is sitting next to the dock, otherwisebuild a second porch/stair assembly and install.
Optional Details - The loading door roof (T-5) glues to the southwall directly under the windows centered over the door opening.Cover with strips of the black roofing material. Supports madefrom 0.012” wire run from the roof to the walls. Holes need tobe drilled with a #79 bit to receive this wire four scale feet fromeach end of the roof.
The roof over the two people doors consists of two brackets (V-12) and a roof (T-4). Glue the brackets inset from the roof edgesby four scale inches. Cover the top of the roof with the blackroofing material. Glue these centered over the doors, about twoscale feet above the top of the door frame.
Bridge
Between the main building and the shipping/storage building isa suspended bridge allowing management to move from officeto office on the second floor without going out in the elements.This bridge may be left off or installed in a different location ifthe buildings are rearranged.
Glue the bridge sides (J-1), ends (J-2) and floor (J-3) together.The roof supports (J-4) are spaced evenly along the bridge.
Add the window frames (K-1) and the glazed window sashes(Y-5). There are four external braces (K-2) that run from thelower outer corners of the sides to the top centers.
Gently bend a curve into the roof (M-4), and glue it in place onthe bridge. Cover the roof with strips of black roofing material.
The bridge can be mounted on the north side of the shipping/storage building centered over the freight door. It will be wedged
in between the top of the door trackand the roof. Several of the rafters willneed to be removed for clearance.Glue it to the side of the shipping/storage building. Three of theexposed ends of the main building’ssecond floor support brackets willneed to be sanded flush with the sideof the second floor where the bridgeenters. When ready for the finalinstallation of the buildings, it will beglued to the second floor wall also.On the pilot model, this end of thebridge is centered over the largesouth-side freight door of the mainbuilding.
A temporary ramp was installedbetween the south-side freight doorof the main building and the north-side freight door of the shipping/storage building. Since managementwanted to still have rail access to themain door, they built a temporarycrossover ramp.
The crossover ramp supports (Z-7) are centered and glued tothe ends of the crossover ramp deck (A-94). The joists (A-99)glue under the deck against the supports, and the side rails (A-100) glue to the top of the deck along the edges.
The center of the deck is supported by a stack of railroad ties(A-75). These are glued to the track after the first round of sceneryis installed. The ramp is added at the time the bridge is installed
North Side
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and will span the distance between the main building south-sidedock and the shipping/storage buildings freight door bumper. Itmay require a small bit of sanding to insure a snug fit.
The Dock
The dock adds a large amount of interest to the Hyde complex.When the first mill was built, a smaller dock jutted straight outto provided access to the small river boats. Later as he was addingto the second mill, Mr. Hyde realized a larger dock was needed,so the retaining wall and a more substantial dock was built.
Since the bulk of the track will be covered by planking, use flextrack. The pilot model uses Micro Engineering Code 70 dualgauge flex and the height of the planking supports was basedupon that tie height. If you are using another brand of flex, someminor adjustments may be needed.
Another feature of the dock is the flexibility. With theexception of the left and right C-1, C-2), the retaining wall canbe built in several different configurations. The joists on thedock can be shortened as needed. Look over the componentsand plan your own configuration, or use the original design.
Stain all the components for the dock with A&I, then when dry,follow with a stain of A&D. Additional washes of gray and brownwill enhance the appearance.
Assemble the retaining wall sections (C-1, C-2, C-3) by gluingend-to-end, and add the square pilings (C-13) in the markedareas. At the angled joints, the left-most piling on one retainingwall section simply butts against the right hand piling of thenext section. Add additional weathering by streaking more A&Idown the wall.
South Side
Crossover Ramp Detail
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Distress the round pilingsby scraping the sides withthe teeth of a razor saw.Additional distressing ofthe top of the 1.75” pilingcan be done by gentlyhammering it to amushroom shape.
The assembly of the pilingsections starts on thesupplied jig. Lay a shortround piling (One-inch 1/8” Dowel) into the tworight hand slots, a longround piling (1.75 inch 1/8” dowel) into the lefthand slot, and then gluethe joist (A-34 through A-37) across them lining upthe top edges. Keep thehole in the joist for the NBW centered over the long piling. Whendry, remove from the jig, and glue the matching joist to the otherside. The piling on the other end of the joist, the end that goesagainst the retaining wall, will be added now. When all is dry,add the scale 2.25” NBW castings to the holes in the joists. Youmay want to add them to all intersections of joist and piling, butthey are not easily seen and may not be worth the effort.
Glue the retaining wall in place on the site. The track level andthe top of the retaining wall must match as will the top of thestringers.
There are six stringers (C-9) to support the track. Since there isflexibility in the design of the dock, these stringers areintentionally longer than needed. You will need to cut them inlength and at an angle to match the retaining wall where theymeet land. Before you start cutting, two stringers should now beglued together side-by-side. Make two sets of these as they willbe positioned over the two center pilings and will be directlyunder rails. The other two stringers will be positioned to supportthe ends of the ties.
Glue two joist assemblies in position, the long one on the leftend of the dock, and the first one with track pilings on the right.Sit the stingers in place, and mark the place to cut so that eachstringer will butt against the retaining wall. Cut the stringersand glue in place. Add the remaining joist/piling assemblies.
Position the track on the stringers using the deck boards (B-1,B-2, B-3) as a guide. Work from the outside of the dock backtoward land to make sure there is room for the deck boards.Contact cement works well to hold the plastic ties to the wood.Clamp and allow it to dry.
There are additional stringers to add to the joists. Two long ones(C-10) should be on the outer edge against the tall pilings withthe other two long ones centered between this first one and thetrack stringers. The joint between them will fall behind the centerpiling. Add the other stringers (C-11, C-12); no specific locationshave been determined and neatness does not count here - just
check the photo for reference.
The plank stringers (A-38 through A-41) come next. Again usingthe deck boards (B-1, B-2, B-3) as a guide, glue the plankstringers across the main stringers so that they line up with thenail holes etched into the deck boards. Here again, perfectionon location is not needed as long as they will logically hold upthe dock!
Glue the deck boards in place on the stringers. Start with thewater side, and work toward the land. There are deck boards (B-4, B-5) to go between the rails. These may require a bit of sandingalong the edges to fit the track you use on your model. If you donot have dual gauge, simply use both boards between the railsglued side by side.
On the east end of the dock, install a small “L” shaped cast pipe.This extends down into the water and is the pickup for the pumphouse. Since the east end is up stream, install the main drainpipe, the short plastic tube, on the west end allowing about twoscale feet to extend from the wall. Paint both these rusty colorsand weather heavily.
The floating dock consists of the base (A-30) and deck (A-32).Glue the base to the deck keeping it centered. The ramp consistsof the base (A-29) glued to the bottom center of the deck (F-45).
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Sand the lower bottom edge to an angle to allow it to sitcloser to the floating dock. Cleats (F-46) are glued to thedeck spaced about three scale feet apart.
If desired, add the hand rail made from the three posts andone railing (H-4, H-5) to the side of the ramp. Glue theramp to the top of the dock deck and position the floatingdock below it. Form two eyebolts from the 0.012” wire,drill two holes in the corners closest to the round pilings,and glue the eyebolts in place. Run a length of the whiteline from each eyebolt to the nearest piling and tie themoff. Paint this line with Concrete to tone the color down.
Prior to adding the deck, you may wish to work theground covering around the plank stringers.
The Dock ready for the Deck
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Chip Storage Bin
The Chip Storage Bin is one of the most interesting and intricatestructures in the Hyde complex, yet is it very easy to build. Thechips are carried into the bin via a conveyor system, and asneeded for the next batch of pulp, are moved via an auger intothe main building. Simple, yet without a supply of chips, therecan be no pulp!
Due to the possibility of the wood swelling and the closetolerances on this model, do not stain any of the parts untilmentioned below.
Assemble the four walls (N-1, N-2) of the bin using the twointernal formers (A-63) to strengthen the structure and help keepit all square. Now is the time to stain these parts. A warm brownstain consisting of 2/3 Mahogany and 1/3 Walnut was wiped onthe walls.
After this dries, apply theend supports (C-16) keepingthem flush with the edges ofthe bin. Do not use toomuch glue as it can affect thestain that will be appliedlater! After these dry, sandthe edges of the supports tomake sure they are flush withthe sides of the bin. Glue in place the side supports (C-18) of thebin. After these dry, carefully sand the edges to insure that thesides and ends do not have any high spots.
Assemble the slope sheet walls (N-3) to the slope sheet supports(C-6). The walls will be flush with three sides of the support andnot quite meet the edge of the fourth. This is the edge that willbe at the bottom of the bin. Test fit the slope sheets into the
bottom of the bin. The sides of the slope sheet will be flush withthe bottom edge of the ends of the bin. Cap off the joint betweenthe two sheets with the center brace (C-17).
Add the end angle braces (A-69) to the slopes at the bottomedge of the ends. These should line up with the lower edge.
There are three horizontal braces on each side. Now is the time toadd the lower two sets; the top ones will go on later. Add the endhorizontal braces (C-19) centered directly above the end anglebraces just installed, and to the center position marked on theends with the score lines. After they dry, place the side horizontalbraces in place directly under the end braces.
Build the roof assembly from parts A-64 through A-68. The gableends (P-1) glue to the sub-ends (A-66) flush at the top edges andoverhanging at the bottom. Glue the roof card (T-7) to theassembly. Glue the dormer door (P-2) to the place scribed on thedormer.
Test fit the roof to the bin, but do not glue it in place yet. Thisroof assembly is designed to fit on the bin with the conveyoropening facing any side. On the pilot model, the auger tube is onthe left side from the conveyor. If your space requires it, you canturn the roof 900 either direction and have the conveyor go outthe way that fits your space.
At this time, airbrush the stain on the body and roof assemblies.Due to all the nooks and crannies on this model, it is the easiestway. Stain the remaining supports and braces.
Add the auger assembly now. Pre-paint all the parts either grayor rusty depending upon the amount of maintenance the crewgets done. There are four auger supports; two have holes (I-3)and two (I-2) do not. The auger tube is to be inserted into these
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holes, and the distance you choose between the bin and themain building will determine how far in to insert it. Glue the foursupports to the bottom of the bin, keeping the two with holestogether on one side, and the other two on the other side. Bendthe auger cover plate (U-2) to 900 and glue in place on the augersupports. The belt cover (I-1) glues to the end opposite the augertube. Position it so that the motor, actually one of the two grindercastings in the kit with one grind wheel removed, will be glued tothe bottom edge of the bin wall.
There are three different length angled braces (N-4, N-5, N-6) forthe legs of the bin. Install the scale 12’ braces (N-6) firstconnecting from near the top of center leg on C-17 to near thebottom of the center legs on the sides of the bin. The scale 21’braces (N-5) attach to the legs at the ends of the bin, and thescale 24’-10” braces (N-4) are for the sides. There is no exactvertical location for these, just make sure the holes for the NBWsline up with the center of each leg when forming the large “X”shape. At each location, one brace is on the inside of the legsand the crossing one is on the outside.
Determine the position of the bin with respect to the auger/conveyor location. Place, do not glue, the roof assembly on thetop of the bin making sure the conveyor opening faces the correctdirection. Carefully glue in place the other four horizontal braces(C-19) positioned to match the ones already installed. Each bracehas three pilot holes where the NBW castings (not supplied)willbe installed. Drill these marked areas with a #76 bit, and glue inthe NBW castings that have the scale 2.5" nut and 6.5" washer;these are the largest ones in the kit.
Apply the roof covering of corrugated material now. Cut thecorrugated into scale 3’ to 3’-6” wide strips. Start at the lowestpart of the roof and glue them in place overlapping the edgesslightly. The next row will run from the peak of the roof andoverlap the first layer. Wider strips can be cut to fit over thedormer roof allowing for about six scale inches of overhang onthe sides, and about fourteen scale inches at the end. Finish theroof by cutting strips eighteen scale inches wide, bending in thecenter lengthwise, and gluing in place as a ridge cap.
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Chipping Shed
The Chipping Shed is the first stop pulpwood makes on the wayto becoming paper. Modern mills use mechanical debarkingmachines and chippers. Mr. Hyde was never interested in thedebarking machines due to the extremely low cost of localmanual labor. So here at HPM, the logs are unloaded by hand,the bark is stripped off and stored in the bin for resale, and thelogs are manually fed into the mechanical chipper. The resultingchips are moved via conveyor into the chip storage bin. Daily atruck from the local tannery will come pick up the bark.
Assemble the deck by gluing the six short post sections (C-5) inplace on the sub-deck (A-57). Notice that the first and thirdpositions from one end only are left open for the post sectionswith the column extensions (C-14). Keep these postsperpendicular to the sub-deck. After they dry, add the posts withcolumn extensions (C-14); make sure that both long posts areon the same side of the sub-deck! Stain all the posts dark brownfrom the floor down.
The floor of this building gets lots of abuse, so use the hobbyknife to cut, gouge, and generally abuse the deck. Glue the deck(P-3) onto the sub-deck. Clamp it securely in place until dry toavoid any warping. Add the frame pieces (A-50, A-52) underthe overhanging sections of the flooring. Paint the frame to matchthe siding and the columns to match the trim.
Assemble the four walls (A-46 through A-49) of the chippinghouse after staining with the siding color. An internal brace (A-53) should be glued between the walls near the top.
Paint the doors, window, and frames the trim color. Glue theframe (X-42) around the window and apply the header (X-43)to the top of the frame. This window is a swing-out type and thecovering (X-44) can be glued in place closed or open after gluingthe horizontal brace (X-45) to the scribed side. It should be gluedat the top, and a short piece of wire can be used to prop it open.
The large double door opening receives a frame (X-35) andheader (X-36). Add the threshold (X-37) to the bottom of theopening. The double doors (X-33, X-34) can be assembled as isto represent closed doors, or after the glue sets, they can be cut
apart and glued into the frame in an open position. Glue a brassdoor handle into the hole cut into the door. The door glues intothe openings flush with the inside wall.
The people door opening receives a frame (X-38) and header
(X-39). Assemble the door parts(X-40, X-41) and add the brassdoor knob. The door glues intothe openings flush with the insidewall.
Finish the chipping shed byinstalling the corner trim (X-49through X-54). The locations foreach piece are indicated in theparts list.
Paint, fold and glue into theopening next to the people doorthe chipper chute (U-5). Since this is a dangerous place, brightyellow paint was used on the chute. It should extend out fromthe wall about a scale foot. Weather the interior well with rust,grime, and mud.
Glue the chipping shed to the deck. It will fit snugly against theoffset of the flooring. Glue the joists (A-51) to the top of thecolumns and into the slots at the corners of the chipping shed.
The roller assembly needs to be added next. The cross members(C-8) are glued between the sides (C-7) at the top of theintersection between the legs and frame member. The sheet metalfront (U-3) is glued in place on the frame, and after it is dry,bent outward about 300. The back plate (U-4) glues to the frame,
then the supports(A-56) are glued toit at each leg. Thisframe assemblyshould be paintedgray, and a liberalsupply of rust andgrime should beadded to the sheetmetal parts.
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Paint the ends of the rollers green or gray, then install them ontothe top of the frame assembly. There are small score marks ontop of the frame to help position the rollers. Weather thisassembly, and glue in place on the deck with the end lined upwith the chipper chute.
The rafters (B-6) are glued to the top of the joists, spaced atscale 2’-6” intervals. Note that the chipping house end has arafter (B-7) that does not have the ‘bird-mouth’ notches cut.This rafter glues directly to the end of the house, and should bethe last one to be installed after the stringers are added. Start ateach end and work toward the center.
The stringers (B-8) run the length of the building and are to beequally spaced along the length of the rafter. This will put themabout scale 26” apart, but this spacing is not critical.
Mount a lamp and brass shade in the center of the dock area bygluing the lamp mounting bracket (X-48) to the bottom of thetwo center rafters. The shade should be painted green or gray,with a white interior. This is glued from the bottom into the holein the bracket. Insert a lamp into the neck of the shade. Position
it where the top of the lamp is just below the top of the neck.Keep the leads well separated, and away from the wall of theneck, to avoid any electrical shorts later on. Using a rubbercement or silicone sealer, fill the top of the neck to seal the lampin place. Paint the lead wires on the lamp with a thick flat blackpaint, such as True Test Enamel available at True ValueHardware stores, for assured insulation. Do not paint the last 1/4" of the leads yet to allow for soldering to the wiring. Thispaint, once dry, will be compatible with Floquil paint.
Use the red magnet wire to wire these lights back to a secludedspot inside the building. If any wire is exposed on the model,paint it gray to represent conduit. Solder the ends of two 12”pieces of magnet wire to the bare leads of the lamps. Paint theleads and wire, at least back to the end of the bracket, with thethick black paint. After it is dry, carefully glue the electricalwires to the bracket, and apply another coat of thick black paint.From inside the building, run heavier wire, such as 24 gauge,from the magnet wire, through the floor and under the layout, tothe wiring central location.
The roofing for the chipping shed is the sheet-metal rolledroofing. This is provided in a large piece that must be cut to fit.
Starting at the outside edge of one of the ridges, mark a piecescale 15’-6” x 42’-6” and cut out with a new sharp knife blade.This length should produce a piece where there is a rib on eachend. Spray both sides of the roofing with light gray or Rail Browndepending upon your weathering preferences. After this dries,glue in place centered on the stringers.
Two short roof vents are glued to the roof over the chipper end.A vent pipe cut from 0.046" wire is added also.
Originally, the building was just sitting on a bunch of posts untilthe day several pieces of pulpwood fell off the car and becamewedged between the posts and the car’s truck. The foreman ofthe chip crew figured that it would work loose when the car waspicked up later that night. Three events occurred in a very shortperiod of time. The first thing that happened was the pulpwoodlevered the car off the track when it was moved; the whole nightwas spent getting the car back on the track. Secondly, that nextday the foreman was fired. And the third, Mr. Hyde immediatelyordered that boards be placed around the building to keep thatfrom happening again. It still happened occasionally, but theboards remained.
These boards can be left off the model or applied; the kit builderhas the final choice. Glue the four lattice pieces (P-4, P-5) to theposts leaving about 6 scale inches between the bottom of theframe and the top of the segments. The vertical boards (P-6) areglued in place at every post, and they meet at the corners, but do
not overlap like the corner trim. Paint these to match the wallcolor prior to installation.
The large double door in the back has a small dock consisting ofthe frame (A-55), legs (A-54), and deck (X-55). Glue it in placeunder the large door. Build two sets of stairs using carriages (X-46) and treads (X-47). One set goes on the side of the smalldock, and the second is for the open end of the shed, close to thetrack side.
Bark Bin
The bark bin will be placed at the end of the deck where thebark can be shoveled and swept into it from the deck. Glue thetwo horizontal frame members (A-61) to the bottom of the deck
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(A-58) keeping them in line with the notches along the side.Cap off the front end with the last frame board (A-61) keepingthe top of it level with the floor. Glue the vertical posts (C-15)into the notches; the laser-scored marks should be level with thedeck and the longer part of the post under the deck. The sideboards (A-59) fit inside the vertical posts and rest on the floor.The back board (A-60) simply glues to the outside of the verticalposts. Distress these boards well, as they take a lot of abuse asthe bark is loaded manually into the trucks.
Conveyor Mechanism House
By now, you may be wondering just how the chips get out of theshed! In order to make this kit customizable, the exit point hasnot be pre-determined. And the exit point will be hidden by theconveyor mechanism house which is the next part to assemble.
The mechanism house consists of a core overlaid with plywoodsiding. Glue together the four core walls (S-9 through S-12) andglue the floor (S-14) to the foundation (S-13). Glue the plywoodsides (R-12, R-13) to the core keeping theends flush. Glue the ends (R-14, R-15) tothe core. There will be a bit of excess oneach side which will need to be sandedsmooth.
Apply the door frame (R-16) and the doorknob.
Before proceeding on, now is the time todecide how the mechanism house will sitagainst the chipping shed. The conveyorexits through the roof at the lower end ofthe house and points away from the house.Either the tall end or the side without the
door can be placed against the chipping shed. The location onthe chipping shed can be either the blank end wall - the originalconcept - or on the back wall next to the large double door.Whichever is chosen, the roof will be flush with the chippingshed wall, and centered on the mechanism house side-to-side.The hole in the roof for the conveyor should be on the oppositeside from the people door. The easiest way to decide is to simplyposition the mechanism house against the chipping shed andsee if it fits your layout space.
Once the decision has been made, glue the roof (T-6) in placekeeping it flush with the wall that goes against the chipping shed.After the installation of the conveyor, the roof will be coveredwith corrugated iron. Glue the house to the foundation, and thento the selected wall of the chipping shed.
Chip Conveyor
The chip conveyor is an interesting pieceof equipment, and it goes togetherquickly. This piece of equipment is notpainted before starting assembly. Paintit when it is mentioned, and use dry coatsof spray to prevent the solvents fromloosening the adhesive.
Glue the core sides (A-73) to the bottom(A-72). Paint this assembly black on allsides. Paint the top (N-7) black, and glueit into place. When dry, lightly sand thesides of the core.
The external sides are built up withseveral layers of self-adhesive cardstock.
In the photos, the walkway up the side ofthe conveyor is visible as is the locationused for the mechanism house.
Lower left - Bark Bin
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The sub-sides (W-1) are added first, followed by the bracingoverlay (W-2). Simply align the top edges and press in place.There will be about scale 6” of overhang at the bottom.
Add the small gusset(W-4) and verticalbrace gusset overlays(W-3, W-5). Thevertical brace piecesget a piece ofcardstock added tocreate the effect ofangle iron. These ribs(U-6, U-7) will needto be glued in placewith a small amountof glue. Notice thatone end of the rib isundercut; this endfits over the gussetpart of the verticalbrace. There are nogussets on the square end of the conveyor; this end fits into themechanism house roof.
The walkway supports (A-44) are now glued into the slots onthe bottom. The supports should extend out to the right side ofthe conveyor when viewing it from the lower end. This willallow the walkway to run up to the hatch on the side of the chipstorage bin.
Spray paint the conveyor a medium gray. Depending upon thelevel of maintenance you desire, rust, grime, soot, etc., can beadded now or later.
Since it is not easy to see inside the conveyor, minimal belt detailis included. The cardstock belt should be painted dark brown.Glue wood chips to the cardstock strip, mounding them up nohigher than one scale foot, and when it is dry, put a small amountof glue on the bottom of the strip and slide it into the conveyor.
The walkway is one of those things needed to maintain theconveyor, but would never pass an OSHA inspection! Thewalkway boards (N-8) are scribed for the cleat (R-20) locations.Stain the parts with Driftwood stain, and glue the cleats intoplace. Set the walkway aside for now as it is easier to installafter the conveyor is in place.
The center support for the conveyor consists of a simple ‘A’frame (A-62) and two long (R-21) and two short (R-22) crossbraces. Stain these parts with Driftwood and glue the braces tothe marked location on the frame. The top of the A-frame mayneed to be sanded to an angle to fit snugly under the conveyor.This assembly should be added after the chip bin, conveyor,and mechanism house are in place.
The chip storage bin should already be installed next to the mainbuilding. To make sure everything lines up correctly, theconveyor, mechanism house and chipping shed must be installedat the same time. Slide the square end of the conveyor into theroof opening on the mechanism house. Do not glue it in! Applya small amount of glue to the two tabs that extend from theangled end of the conveyor. This part is inserted into the openingat the top of the chip storage bin. Make sure that all the parts arein alignment and allow them to dry.
Mark the location forthe mechanismhouse, and assumingthe chip bin roof hasnot been glued inplace, remove the binr o o f / c o n v e y o rassembly. With thisout of the way, themechanism house/chipping shed can beglued to the base.
Return the bin roof/conveyor assemblyto the model and glueit in place onto thebin. Using thecorrugated material,add the roof covering
to the conveyor and mechanism house. Start at the lowest pointof the mechanism roof and glue in place the scale 3’ strips ofcorrugated metal. Overlap the lower ones as you apply the secondcourse to the roof. Glue a mushroom vent centered on the tallend of the mechanism house.
Using the same size corrugated material, start at the bottom ofthe conveyor and work up to the top. The pieces should hang offthe edges by about 6 scale inches and overlay at the center. Theuppermost piece will need to be trimmed to fit into the openingin the bin under the overhanging roof. Bend the edges thatoverhang down a bit.
Glue the assembled walkway to the walkway supports. A ladder,rails (R-17, R-18) and rungs (R-19), allows access from theground to the walkway. Build a second ladder using rails (R-17)and glue it to the roof of the chip storage bin starting at theupper end of the conveyor walkway.
Add the A-frame under the conveyor. On the pilot model, thereis a track running under the conveyor, so the placement of theA-frame is critical and it may need to be shortened so there willbe sufficient clearance for a car to pass. If your arrangementdoes not have this situation, simply glue the A-frame under theconveyor where it fits best.
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The Pump House
This is one of the older buildings that survived the fire. It stillhas the shake roof, and as long as it does not leak, has not beenscheduled for newer shingles. Pumps inside this small structurepull water from the river and send it to the boiler house andmain building, and also pump the turpentine from the storagetank into the tank cars.
Build the foundation by gluing the three supports (Z-4) into theslots provided in the floor (A-92). Stain and weather the floor,and paint the supports a dark brown.
Glue the four walls (A-88 through A-91) together to form a box,and when dry, lower over the floor and glue to the supports.
The window frames (K-12) are applied now. Glue in place theheaders (K-13). Install the window sashes (Y-6) after glazing.
The door opening receives a frame (K-9), header (K-10), andthreshold (K-11). Assemble the door parts (K-7, K-8) and addthe brass door handle. The door glues into the openings flushwith the inside wall. It can be cut in two and installed in an openposition if desired.
Install the corner trim (K-3, K-4) based upon the description inthe parts list.
Shingle the roof (T-8) with the random shingles #1001. Gluethe roof to the walls, and when dry, add the ridge cap using thecap strip along the edge of the shingle sheet.
The eave trim consists of the two boards (K-5) and a “V” brace(K-6) which goes behind them at the peak. It is easier to glue thebrace to the underside of the roof, then when it is dry, add thetrim boards. These should be inset from the edge about 4 scaleinches.
The rafters (K-27) slide into the notches in the tops of the walls.Glue in place with the end flush with the edges of the roof.
A T-top smoke jack is now added to the roof.
The porch in front of the pump house uses a base (A-97) and adeck (K-19) glued together. Note that one end of the base hastwo slits for the bottom of the stair carriage to the loading stand.Assemble the loading stand from the three supports (A-96)connected at the top by the two joists (A-95). The three footers(A-98) are painted concrete and glued to the bottoms of thesupports. Note that one end of the stand has a set of slots toreceive the upper end of the stair carriage. Glue the carriageparts (K-14) in place on these two assemblies.
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Add the stair treads (K-15) tothe stair carriage. Glue the deck(K-20) to the top of the loadingstand. Attach the railing to theside of the stairs using parts (K-16, K-17). A stair support (D-6) goes in the notch on the staircarriages and has a sway brace(K-26) added to the scribedlines.
Add the loading stand supportbraces (K-22, K-23) to theirlocations on the supports. Thefour sway braces (K-21) runfrom the center of the joist down to the outer support on bothsides.
The pipe that will fill the tank car is bent from the 0.046” wire.The pipe brace (A-93) can be used to help support it. The valveassembly consists of the white-metal “Y” that must be drilled toreceive the 0.046” wire from the top and bottom. Bend the toppiece in a large "U" shape and add the rubber hose to the end.The lower pipe must be bent to clear the edge of the roof, andruns from the valve assembly into the pump house. Thehorizontal part of the “Y” will be drilled to receive the brassvalve wheel. Cut off most of the shaft before gluing it in place.A length of the brown line is attached at the top of the pipe tohelp swing it into position.
Build the turpentine tank. The two internal braces (A-87) slideinto each other, and then the tank top (A-101) and bottom (A-86) formers are glued to the braces. Add the foundation supports(Z-5, Z-6) to the bottom of the tank.
The tank wrapper (K-24) can be placed in water for a fewminutes, then wrapped around a round object - about ¾” indiameter - and held in place with rubber bands until dry. Thiswill set the shape and make gluing to the formers easier. Whendry, glue the wrapper to the formers. Add the top (K-25), andthe hatch (K-18) on the top. Use thestyrene strips to form the tank bands,gluing one end down, wrapping around,then cutting and gluing the second endto form a butt joint. These should beplaced on top of the horizontal scribedlines.
An access ladder consisting of rails (K-28, K-29) and rungs (K-30) is built andglued to the side of the tank near thehatch. Run a pipe from near the bottomof the tank into the pump house; this isthe outlet pipe, and it can be formed fromthe 0.046” wire. Once the tank has beenset in place, another pipe needs to be runfrom the second floor of the mainbuilding into the top of the tank. This willbe a piece of 0.046" wire and can besupported by the pipe support pieces (A-85). These supports have braces (H-23,H-24) glued to the sides.
The pipe leading from the bottom ofthe valve should be long enough toenter the side of the pump house.
Glue in place one side of the tankwrapper and let it completely dry. Ascrap of cardstock was placed behindthe joint for added strength.
29
The Repair Shed
This structure is in need of repair itself! The original corrugatedroofing is rusting away, and the sides need a good coat of paint.But as long as it stands, Mr. Hyde will keep using it!
Glue the four walls (G-2 through G-5) together to form a boxaround the floor (G-1). These cardstock walls are overlaid withplywood parts (Q-1 through Q-4). In the corner opening, addthe corner wall (Q-5) and ceiling (Q-6). Sand the edges smooth.
The door openings receive frames (Q-7, Q-9) and headers (Q-8,Q-10). Assemble the door parts (Q-11 through Q-14) and addthe brass door handle to the large door and a knob to the smallone. The doors glue into the openings flush with the inside wall.
There are laser-cut marks along the edges of the roof to markthe places for the rafters. Now is the time to hold the roof (L-2)against the sides of the building in the proper position and, usinga sharp pencil, transfer the small laser marks along the edge tothe walls near the top edge. Remember, these marks on the roofcards will be covered with roofing before the rafters can beinstalled!
The roof (L-2) simply glues to the top of the walls. The four cutout tabs need to be bent up as these form the supports for thedormer walls. Glue the dormer walls (Q-15, Q-16) in place oneach side of these tabs. Paint the inside of the dormers black toincrease the feeling of depth. The dormer roofs (L-3) glue ontop of thedormers. Installthe four dormersashes (Y-4).Glaze them andtrim the styreneflush with allfour edges asthese just sitbetween thedormer walls.Apply a smallamount of glueto the insideedges of thedormer wallsand roof andpress the sash inplace.
Cover the roofwith corrugatedmaterial. Smallpieces need tobe cut and fittedbetween thedormers, and on top of the dormers. Cap the ridge with narrowpieces of corrugated.
The side lean-to is added by gluing the posts (A-42) to the wallwith the joist (A-43) glued between them. The roof (L-2) gluesto the top and is covered with corrugated material like the restof the shed.
Glue the work bench legs (B-10) to the top (B-9). The topcovering (F-32) is glued to the top. Mount the grinder castingon one corner of the bench, and attach the bench to the repairshed wall under the lean-to.
The eave trim consists of the two boards (Q-17, Q-18) and a“V” brace (Q-21) which goes behind them at the peak. The trimis different on each side, so look carefully before installing it. It
is easier to glue the brace to the underside of theroof, then when it is dry, add the trim boards. Theseshould be inset from the edge about 4 scale inches.
Install the rafters (Q-19, Q-20) under the edges ofthe roof on the pencil marks. There are two differentangle rafters, so be sure to get them on the correctside.
A short cone-top smoke jack is now added to theroof.
The crane comes next. The top brace plate (U-13)needs to be bent into a “U” shape along the scoredlines on the sides. Glue a bearing plate (U-15) ontop and on the bottom of the brace keeping the holesin line. Glue a large NBW casting into the hole fromthe top, leaving as much of the sprue on it as possible;this sprue will be the pivot point for the crane. Afterpainting gray or green, glue this assembly centeredunder the ceiling of the notched corner.
The bottom plate (U-14) receives a bearing plate (U-15) centered on the hole. This is painted gray or greenand glued to the dock, directly under the top braceplate. It is easier to install these parts when the repairshed is attached to the dock.
Glue the crane arm (Z-9) to the crane post (Z-8) between thetwo scored marks. Glue the joint plate, tee (U-12) to each sidewhere they join. The crane arm support (Z-10) glues betweenthe arm and post, and is braced on the post joint by the plate (U-11) glued to each side.
30
Directly below this plate, mount the two wench sides (U-10).The grooved pulley casting should now be glued between theseplates in the lower holes. The large wheel casting glues to theoutside of the wench in the upper hole. Bend a crank from the0.012” wire and inset into a #80 drilled hole on the side oppositethe large wheel.
Fold the hoist sheave bracket (U-8) to form a “U” shape andglue in place over the top of the crane arm. The angled partshould line up with the arm support. Glue the sheave outsidewalls (U-9) to the sheave center (N-10). This sheave fits into theslot in the bottom of the arm, and the sheave is held in place byinserting small NBW castings from each side.
Run a length of the brown line through the sheave and down tothe grooved pulley. Wrap around and glue to the pulley. Paintthis line and all metal parts with Grimy Black, and stain thewood parts of the crane with medium gray.
Drill a hole in the top center of the crane post to receive thesprue of the NBW on the top brace. Drill a smaller hole and gluein a short length of wire to the center of the bottom of the cranepost.
Decide where the repair shed will go, and mark the location.Also mark the location for the bottom plate assembly. Glue thebottom plate in place, and drill through the pivot hole into thedeck. When ready to install the shed, put glue on the bottom ofthe walls, slip the crane under the NBW sprue sticking downfrom bracket, and while placing the pin in the bottom of thecrane into the hole in the bottom plate, place the shed on thedeck. Make sure that the crane is straight.
Odds and Ends
There are two light poles, actually just six-inch dowels, in thebox. Use the two brass lamp shades and a length of 0.020 wireto form lights to hang from these poles. Bend the wire as shown,and glue it into two holes drilledscale two feet apart into thedowel. The shade will slide ontothe end of the bracket and a smallamount of ACC will hold it inplace. Make sure there is roomon each side of the bracket forthe lamp leads.
Insert a lamp into the neck of theshade. Position it where the topof the lamp is just below the topof the neck. Keep the leads wellseparated, and away from thewall of the neck, to avoid any electrical shorts later on. Using athick flat black paint, such as True Test Enamel available atTrue Value Hardware stores, fill the top of the neck to seal thelamp in place. Paint the exterior of the shades, the brackets, andall of the lead wires on your lights with this latex paint for assuredinsulation. Do not paint the last 1/4" of the leads yet to allow forsoldering to your cable as directed below. This paint, once dry,will be compatible with Floquil paint.
Use the red magnet wire to wire these lights back to the board.Solder the ends of two 12” pieces of magnet wire to the bareleads of the lamps, and then run these pieces down each side ofthe pole. Paint the wire gray to represent conduit. Paint the leadsand wire, at least back to the end of the lamp bracket, with thethick black paint. Paint the top of the lamp shades with a finishcolor of Coach Green, the inside white, and dust them with yourrust powder when they are dry.
31
Cut the small screen into two or three pieces. Weather with rust,and pile around the repair shed. The pulping process uses screenfor draining the pulp, so you need some also.
Apply the signs wherever you desire. Trim each from the pageand lightly sand the back with 600-grit sandpaper to thin themdown a bit. Not much effort is needed here! Glue them in placewith white glue. Each one should be slightly weathered with alight sanding of 600-grit sandpaper after the glue dries. Tonedown all of the signs with a thinned A&I stain to age them a bit.
Add rust streaks coming from the various metal details of thestructure. The rust powder in your kit, applied with a fine, softbrush, will work well. Just do not overdue this weathering - likebird droppings, a little goes a long way!
Add soot to the tops of the smoke jacks using Engine Blackpaint applied with the dry-brush technique.
Six plastic light shades are included. Add brackets bent fromthe 0.012” wire, paint green, and add to various spots, usuallyover the door ways.
You may also wish to add bits of loose trash made from scrappaper, pieces of wood, and other castings when you do yourscenery on your model.
SCENERY - Scenery is one of the single most varied subjectsthat one can discuss in model construction. Consider the factthat the world as a whole is comprised of many different scenicforms. We are all aware of plains, mountains and deserts.However, these large categories are not inclusive of all possiblecategories, let alone, sub categories. The net result being thatthe world has an amazing array of possible scenic forms.
Modeling the scenic forms found in our world has about as manyapproaches as there are scenic forms to model. This manualpresents only a limited and brief account of our preferred methodof scenery construction. Many of you reading this may haveanother preferred method that you regularly use. If you do, thenby all means proceed on your own. If you do not, then we suggestyou give our method a try. Those of you who are interested in amore complete explanation of this method of sceneryconstruction should consider purchasing a copy of How to BuildRealistic Model Railroad Scenery by Dave Frary; an excellentbook by a fine gentleman. You will also find various watermodeling techniques in this book.
Begin by obtaining some light tan or brown dirt. Find a source(your yard, a creek bed, etc.) which you can return to and getmore dirt as needed. You will find that for modeling purposes itis best to have one basic dirt color throughout your layout. Donot choose a dark or yellow color for your dirt. Yellow tends toimpart a dead look to a scene while dark dirt looks too darkunder artificial lighting.
Remove the large rocks, twigs, etc., and place the dirt into ametal baking dish and bake it for a hour or so at 3000. This willhelp dry the dirt out, and kill any small living things that mightburied in there!
There are a couple of people figures in your kit. If you have notalready done so, you should paint and install these figures now.It is natural for these workers to wear dark blue trousers andlight blue shirts, and tan and red is also a good combination. Puta white shirt on the Boss, and finish these guys off with a washof A&I; it will tone them down, and highlight the details. Placethem to suit your desires, or where we did on our model. Try tohave them in resting postions rather than action ones.
Add the pigeons. Ours are painted white, shades of gray, andbrown, with darker heads. The skunk is grimy black with theinfamous white stripe, the dog is yellow-brown, and the rats areshades of medium brown. We put the skunk and dog together ina junk pile out back.
Be sure to add some bird droppings to your roofs with the endof a pin or fine tipped brush dipped into White paint and appliedas. . . well, you know what bird droppings look like! A littlegoes a long way! An alternate method of applying bird droppingsis to obtain a white oil pastel stick. Use just the very fine edge ofthe stick, or a slightly sharpened edge of the stick, to add slightsmall streaks and dots. Practice this on a piece of paper prior totrying this on your roof. Use a light quick motion for best results.Once you master this technique, you will be able to add thisdetail in seconds to any given model.
Paint the metal castings of boxes, barrels, drums, and crates,and place them around the scene. If a freight door has been leftopen, some may be placed inside the freight area.
Naturally, you need slabs of pulp. Part O-1 is used to representthese slabs. Paint with medium to light tan, weather with theA&I, and stack them up on the carts. The stacks should not behigher than five or six slabs. Stack the rest inside the shipping/storage building.
Add the large ball finial to the center of the water tank.
Add the rubber hose to the deck of the chipping shed. It is usedto rinse off the pulpwood before it goes into the chipper becausedirt dulls the blades. The axe and broom are details for thechipping shed also.
Using the D&I stain, color the course wood chips a medium-to-dark brown. These will represent pieces of bark in the bark bin,and on the deck of the chipping shed. As a final detailing step,use the smaller chips around the chipper chute, and under theconveyor and chip storage bin.
The extra dowels are used to make some pulpwood. Rough upthe pieces using the edge of a razor saw, then stain some withthe A&I. Drybrush some light gray on the high spots, and cutoff into pieces no more than four scale feet long. Place thesearound the deck. The pieces left without the stain can be put onthe rollers as debarked wood ready to chip.
Additional pulpwood can be cut from yard trimmings. Many ofthe smaller branches of the oak and other trees make greatpulpwood. Keep the size small, ranging from 1/16 to 1/4 inch.
32
Sift your dirt through a layer of panty hose to produce a powderwhich is as fine as dust. Once sifted you can apply it to yourdiorama with a small disposable spoon by gently tapping theside of the spoon. Under most instances you do not want to applya layer thicker than 0.20" to the surface you are covering. Thisgrade of dirt works best for roads and fairly level areas. Theother areas on our diorama used basically non-sifted dirt.
Prior to the actual application of dirt it is best to lay down anundercoat of latex paint. A layer of latex house paint makes agood undercoat. The paint should be applied in such a manneras to coat the entire surface which will be covered with the dirt.This undercoat will serve as both a glue to stick the dirt to thediorama, and as a close match to the color of the dirt just in casesome of it is broken loose.
The color of latex paint should be as close as possible to the dirtcolor after the dirt is glued down with the water and glue mixturedescribed below.
Apply the non-sifted dirt to all areas except the dirt roads. Applythe sifted dirt to the dirt roads.
Wet slopes on the diorama slightly if the dirt does not stick tothem. Additionally, wet all the dirt once it is applied with wetwater which is water with a couple of drops of dish soap added.Due to the nature of the diorama (a building which is glued inplace), the use of an eyedropper to apply the water is highlyrecommended over the spray bottle. Application of the wet waterwith a spray bottle is suggested by some, but it is hard to controland can lead to warping of wooden structures.
Once all the dirt is thoroughly soaked with water, you can applya mixture of 1/3 white glue or matte medium to 2/3 water, witha drop or two of dish soap added, over all the dirt. You may findit easier to do this step now and add plant life to the terrain later.
Add road ruts to the road with the edge of an 1/16” thick pieceof scrap wood.
Now apply ground foam. Try to stay away from bright colorsthat look artificial in a model scene even if they are appropriatein real life. Dull greens, browns and yellows work the best. Startwith the fine grades of foam and work up to the coarser gradesof foam to give an indication of larger weed growth. Remembernot to cover all parcels of terrain evenly with foam or colors offoam. Nature tends to be randomly arranged rather than orderlyarranged as we often arrange plants. Here is a method usingground foam from the Woodland Scenics that works well:
A) Apply a light dusting of fine Earth foam.
B) Add a moderate dusting of fine T49 mixed Green foam.
C) Apply a light, random dusting of Burnt Grass foam.
D) Apply a light, random dusting of Yellow Grass foam.
E) Apply, in random groups, a combination of coarseMedium Green, Burnt Green and Light Green foam.
F) Use the glue solution to bond it all together.
Taller weeds can be made with the weed material provided inyour kit. Simply place a dab of white glue where you want aweed, separate a group of fibers, and snip off a short piece. Plantit in the glue. Fan the weed out before it dries. Assuming yourterrain is still wet, the excess glue will soak into the terrain andthe weed will look as though it were growing out of the soilwhen the terrain is dry.
Now add all the castings to your terrain. Some of the castingsmay need to have parts cut or sanded away to make them appearas though they are buried in the terrain. Other items are justpressed into the terrain. A drop of white glue below each detailwill secure it in place. After everything is dry, any loose detailscan be glued permanently in place with 5-minute epoxy.
Pieces of scrap wood and paper can be added now. Be sure toadd a few scraps of paper to your road. Use any leftovers fromthe kit as part of the scenery details. Junk piles should includescrap wood, old bent pipes, etc. Blend it all together with a finalapplication of A&I.
The job of final detailing will go on forever as you discover newitems and new techniques. Enjoy this part of the hobby as itreally makes everything come together.
Trivia about the Hyde Pulp Mill• By the time you finish this kit, you will have touched andassembled over 2,100 pieces, and have a great model!
• There are over three hours of laser time on a 1,000 ppi (pointsper inch) laser in each kit.
• Prior to doing the redesign work, we studied the Handbookfor Pulp and Paper Technologies, and every magazine articlewe could find to better understand the requirements on this kit.While the kit is a work of fiction, it is based upon fact.
• McCabe, Hyde, and Greeley are fictional characters, but formany of us they have taken on personalitites. Knowing themmakes the kits more believeable! While building the model, Ioften stopped and wondered, “would Greeley let that happen?”
• This is the largest Master Creations kit ever made... at leastfor now! Wonder what will be out next year!
All information in this instruction manual is the sole propertyof RLW and may not be reproduced in any manner without
A1 - 1 Main Wall South, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA1 - 2 Main Wall West, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA1 - 3 Soffet, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA1 - 4 Main Wall West Brace, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA1 - 5 Clerestory Rib 5 1/32 Main Building
A2 - 6 Main Wall West, First Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA2 - 7 Main Wall East, First Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA2 - 8 Main Wall North, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA2 - 9 Support Bracket, 2nd Floor, Side 48 1/32 Main BuildingA2 - 10 Support Bracket, 2nd Floor, End 16 1/32 Main BuildingA2 - 11 Support Bracket, 2nd Floor, Corner 4 1/32 Main Building
A3 - 12 Main Wall East, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA3 - 13 Gable Wall West, 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA3 - 14 Main Wall West, Center 1 1/32 Main BuildingA3 - 15 Support Rafter, West Roof 2 1/32 Main BuildingA3 - 16 End Support Rafter, West Roof 1 1/32 Main BuildingA3 - 17 Support Rafter, Center Roof 3 1/32 Main Building
A4 - 18 2nd Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA4 - 19 Foundation Crossmember, Interior 5 1/32 Main Building
A5 - 20 Foundation Side 2 1/32 Main BuildingA5 - 21 First Floor 1 1/32 Main Building
A6 - 22 2nd Floor Joist 4 1/32 Main BuildingA6 - 23 Main Wall South, First Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA6 - 24 Clerestory Side 2 1/32 Main BuildingA6 - 25 Bay Window Former 2 1/32 Main BuildingA6 - 26 Top Support, First Floor 2 1/32 Main BuildingA6 - 27 Bay Window Support 2 1/32 Main BuildingA6 - 75 Tie, 8'-6" 16 1/32 Main Building
A7 - 22 2nd Floor Joist 3 1/32 Main BuildingA7 - 28 Main Wall North, First Floor 1 1/32 Main BuildingA7 - 29 Floating Dock Ramp 1 1/32 Floating DockA7 - 30 Floating Dock Base 1 1/32 Floating DockA7 - 31 Deck, West End Dock 1 1/32 Main BuildingA7 - 45 Foundation Crossmember, Exterior 2 1/32 Main Building
A10 - 63 Bin Internal Former 2 1/32 Chip Storage BinA10 - 64 Dormer Side, Right 1 1/32 Chip Storage BinA10 - 65 Dormer Side. Left 1 1/32 Chip Storage BinA10 - 66 Sub-End 2 1/32 Chip Storage Bin
A10 - 67 Roof Frame, Dormer Side 1 1/32 Chip Storage BinA10 - 68 Roof Frame 1 1/32 Chip Storage BinA10 - 69 End Angle Brace 4 1/32 Chip Storage BinA10 - 70 Water Tank Former 2 1/32 Main BuildingA10 - 71 Water Tank Interior Brace 2 1/32 Main BuildingA10 - 72 Conveyor Bottom 1 1/32 ConveyorA10 - 73 Conveyor Sub-Side, Left & Right 2 1/32 ConveyorA10 - 74 Water Tank Joist 5 1/32 Main Building
A11 - 76 Wall, West 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 77 Alcove Wall, North 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 78 Wall, North 1 1/16 OfficeA11 - 79 Alcove Ceiling 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 80 Wall, South 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 81 Wall, East 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 82 Alcove Wall, East 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 83 Alcove Corner Support 1 1/32 OfficeA11 - 84 Floor Support 4 1/32 OfficeA11 - 85 Pipe Support 3 1/32A11 -102 Pipe Frame, 3-Pipe 2 1/32 Main BuildingA11 -103 Pipe Frame, 2-Pipe 2 1/32 Main Building
A12 - 85 Pipe Support 2 1/32A12 - 86 Tank Bottom Former 1 1/32 Turpentine TankA12 - 87 Tank Internal Brace 2 1/32 Turpentine TankA12 - 88 Wall, West 1 1/16 Pump HouseA12 - 89 Wall, East 1 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 90 Wall, North 1 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 91 Wall, South 1 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 92 Floor 1 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 93 Pipe Brace 1 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 94 Crossover Ramp Deck 1 1/32 Main BuildingA12 - 95 Loading Stand Joist 2 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 96 Loading Stand Support 3 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 97 Porch Frame 1 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 98 Loading Stand Footer 3 1/32 Pump HouseA12 - 99 Crossover Ramp Joist 2 1/32 Main BuildingA12 -100 Crossover Ramp Side Rail 2 1/32 Main BuildingA12 -101 Tank Top Former 1 1/32 Turpentine Tank
B1 - 1 Deck, End 1 1/32 DockB1 - 2 Deck, Land Side 1 1/32 DockB1 - 9 Workbench Top 1 1/32 Repair ShedB1 - 10 Workbench Leg 2 1/32 Repair ShedB1 - 11 Loading Dock Deck, South 1 1/32 Main BuildingB1 - 12 Enclosed Stair Side 2 1/32 Main BuildingB1 - 13 Enclosed Stair Roof 1 1/32 Main BuildingB1 - 14 Enclosed Stair Interior Brace 1 1/32 Main BuildingB1 - 15 Watertank Brace 6 1/32 Main Building
B2 - 3 Deck, Water Side 1 1/32 DockB2 - 4 Deck, Between Track 1 1/32 DockB2 - 5 Deck, Between Track 1 1/32 DockB2 - 6 Rafter 16 1/32 Chipping ShedB2 - 7 Rafter, End 1 1/32 Chipping ShedB2 - 8 Stringer 8 1/32 Chipping Shed
C1 - 1 Retaining Wall Section, West End 1 1/16 DockC1 - 2 Retaining Wall Section, East End 1 1/16 DockC1 - 3 Retaining Wall Section 4 1/16 DockC1 - 5 Post Section 2 1/16 Chipping ShedC1 - 6 Slope Sheet Support 2 1/16 Chip Storage BinC1 - 17 Center Brace 1 1/16 Chip Storage BinC1 - 20 Water Tank Support 2 1/16 Main Building
C2 - 4 Hoist Arm, 2nd Floor 1 1/16 Main BuildingC2 - 7 Roller Frame Side 2 1/16 Chipping ShedC2 - 8 Roller Frame Crosspiece 6 1/16 Chipping ShedC2 - 9 Stringer, Track Support 6 1/16 DockC2 - 10 Main Stringer, 49' 4 1/16 DockC2 - 11 Main Stringer, 22' 4 1/16 DockC2 - 12 Main Stringer, 12' 4 1/16 DockC2 - 13 Retaining Wall Square Piling 32 1/16 Dock
C3 - 5 Post Section 4 1/16 Chipping ShedC3 - 15 Bark Bin Post 8 1/16 Chipping ShedC3 - 16 End Support 2 1/16 Chip Storage BinC3 - 18 Side Support 2 1/16 Chip Storage Bin
Parts List Part # Description Qty Material Use Part # Description Qty Material Use
35
Repair Shedand Crane
Chip Storage Binand
Tank Car Loading
Chipping Shedand
Bark Bin
36
C3 - 19 Horizontal Brace 12 1/16 Chip Storage BinC3 - 21 Loading Dock Support, South 2 1/16 Main BuildingC4 - 14 Post Section w/Column 2 1/16 Chipping Shed
D - 1 Porch Frame 2 1/32 Main BuildingD - 2 Porch Leg 8 1/32 Main BuildingD - 3 Stair Jig Centerbeam 1 1/32D - 4 Stair Jig End 2 1/32D - 5 Floor 1 1/32 OfficeD - 6 Stair Support 1 1/32 Pump House
E - 1 Roof, East End 1 Med. Card Main Building
F - 1 Corner Trim, West End, First Floor 4 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 2 Joint Trim, East End, First Floor 2 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 3 Corner Trim, East End, First Floor 4 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 4 Corner Trim, East End, 2nd Floor 4 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 5 Corner Trim, West End, Third Floor 4 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 6 Corner Trim, West End, 2nd Floor 4 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 7 Window Frame, Small 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 8 Window Sill, Small 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 9 Window Header, Small 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 10 Window Frame, West Gable 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 11 Window Sill, West Gable 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 12 Window Header, West Gable 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 13 Door Front, Small Freight 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 14 Door Back, Small Freight 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 15 Door Frame, Small Freight 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 16 Door Header, Small Freight 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 17 Door Threshold, Small Freight 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 18 Door Frame, East End 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 19 Door Header, East End 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 20 Door Threshold, East End 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 21 Door Front, East End 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 22 Door Back, East End 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 23 Door Transom, East End 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 24 Door Frame, Large Freight 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 25 Door Header, Large Freight 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 26 Door Threshold, Large Freight 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 27 Window Frame, Large 7 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 28 Window Sill, Large 7 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 29 Window Header, Large 7 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 30 Door Front, Large Freight 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 31 Door Back, Large Freight 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 32 Workbench Top 1 1/64 Ply Repair ShedF - 33 Tank Hatch 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 34 Tank Top 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 35 Tank Wrapper 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 36 Eave Trim Brace 3 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 37 Eave Trim 6 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 38 Boarded Up Window 1 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 39 Boarded Up Window Brace 4 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 40 Short Rafter, East End 12 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 41 Rafter, East End 2 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 42 Rafter 86 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 43 Stair Carriage, Short 12 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 44 Stair Tread 30 1/64 Ply Main BuildingF - 45 Ramp Deck 1 1/64 Ply Floating DockF - 46 Ramp Cleat 14 1/64 Ply Floating DockF - 47 Porch Deck 2 1/64 Ply Main Building
G - 1 Floor 1 Hvy Card Repair ShedG - 2 Wall, North 1 Hvy Card Repair ShedG - 3 Wall, West 1 Hvy Card Repair ShedG - 4 Wall, South 1 Hvy Card Repair ShedG - 5 Wall, East 1 Hvy Card Repair Shed
H - 1 Leg Brace, Long 4 1/64 OfficeH - 2 Leg Brace, Short 4 1/64 OfficeH - 3 Corner Trim, Long 6 1/64 OfficeH - 4 Stair Railing Post 5 1/64 Office/DockH - 5 Stair Railing 2 1/64 Office/DockH - 6 Stair Tread 14 1/64 OfficeH - 7 Stair Carriage, Long 2 1/64 OfficeH - 8 Stair Carriage, Short 2 1/64 OfficeH - 9 Window Frame, Small 1 1/64 OfficeH - 10 Window Header, Small 1 1/64 OfficeH - 11 Window Sill, Small 1 1/64 OfficeH - 12 Door Back Lower Panel 1 1/64 OfficeH - 13 Door Front 1 1/64 OfficeH - 14 Door Frame 1 1/64 Office
H - 15 Door Header 1 1/64 OfficeH - 16 Door Threshold 1 1/64 OfficeH - 17 Window Frame, Large 3 1/64 OfficeH - 18 Window Header, Large 3 1/64 OfficeH - 19 Window Sill, Large 3 1/64 OfficeH - 20 Rafter 42 1/64 OfficeH - 21 Corner Trim, Short 4 1/64 OfficeH - 22 Floor Joist 2 1/64 OfficeH - 23 Pipe Support Brace, Short 8 1/64H - 24 Pipe Support Brace, Long 8 1/64H - 25 Trim, West End Dock 2 1/64 Main BuildingH - 26 Brace, West End Dock 2 1/64 Main BuildingH - 27 Clerestory End 2 1/64 Main BuildingH - 28 Clerestory Vertical Post 10 1/64 Main BuildingH - 29 Clerestory Side 2 1/64 Main BuildingH - 30 Roofwalk Support 18 1/64 Main BuildingH - 31 Roofwalk, Short 1 1/64 Main BuildingH - 32 Roofwalk. Long 1 1/64 Main Building
I - 1 Belt Cover 1 4-Ply Matt Chip Storage BinI - 2 Auger Cover Support, Closed 2 4-Ply Matt Chip Storage BinI - 3 Auger Cover Support, Open 2 4-Ply Matt Chip Storage Bin
J - 1 Bridge Side 2 1/32 BridgeJ - 2 Bridge End 2 1/32 BridgeJ - 3 Bridge Floor 1 1/32 BridgeJ - 4 Bridge Roof Support 2 1/32 Bridge
K - 1 Window Frame 2 1/64 BridgeK - 2 Side Brace 4 1/64 BridgeK - 3 Corner Trim, Side 4 1/64 Pump HouseK - 4 Corner Trim, End 4 1/64 Pump HouseK - 5 Eave Trim 4 1/64 Pump HouseK - 6 Eave Trim Support 2 1/64 Pump HouseK - 7 Door 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 8 Door Brace 2 1/64 Pump HouseK - 9 Door Frame 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 10 Door Header 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 11 Door Threshold 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 12 Window Frame 2 1/64 Pump HouseK - 13 Window Header 2 1/64 Pump HouseK - 14 Stair Carriage 2 1/64 Pump HouseK - 15 Stair Tread 12 1/64 Pump HouseK - 16 Stair Post 5 1/64 Pump HouseK - 17 Stair Railing 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 18 Tank Hatch 1 1/64 Turpentine TankK - 19 Porch Deck 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 20 Loading Stand Deck 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 21 Loading Stand Sway Brace 4 1/64 Pump HouseK - 22 Loading Stand Support Brace, Small 6 1/64 Pump HouseK - 23 Loading Stand Support Brace, Large 6 1/64 Pump HouseK - 24 Turpentine Tank Wrapper 1 1/64 Turpentine TankK - 25 Turpentine Tank Top 1 1/64 Turpentine TankK - 26 Stair Support Sway Brace 1 1/64 Pump HouseK - 27 Rafter 12 1/64 Pump HouseK - 28 Tank Ladder Rail, Long 1 1/64 Turpentine TankK - 29 Tank Ladder Rail, Short 1 1/64 Turpentine TankK - 30 Tank Ladder Rung 10 1/64 Turpentine TankK - 31 Roof Ladder Rail, Long 1 1/64 Main BuildingK - 32 Roof Ladder Rail, Short 5 1/64 Main BuildingK - 33 Ladder Rung 12 1/64 Main BuildingK - 34 Roof Hatch 1 1/64 Main BuildingK - 35 Roof Hatch Base 1 1/64 Main Building
Detail parts in the N Scale kit are different than what iscontained in the HO kit as depicted in the phots. Therealso may be other slight variations in this kit than isdepicted in the instructions and pictures.
Part # Description Qty Material Use Part # Description Qty Material Use
