Everyone knows that Paris is the place to be when you’re an artist,you work in fashion, or you simply have a creative passion that needsnurturing. But what’s it really like for the Irish who’ve made the leap?

AOIFE DREWmeets eight expats who won’t be leaving anytime soon.Photographs by KATIE DONNELLY.

Paris is universally renowned as theCity of Light, a dazzling culturalmetropolis. It’s unquestionably a hubfor the world’s best art exhibitions,museums and fashion shows, and the

city’s architecture, beauty and spirit have inspiredinnumerable artists, writers and poets over the ages.

A lesser known fact, however, is that Paris ishome to a vibrant community of Irish people

rocking the city’s cultural centre. Quietly yetconfidently successful, they are an eclectic mixhailing from the worlds of art, fashion andmusic. They have taken their Irish heritageand transcended it in spheres where thereare no cultural boundaries. We spoke witheight such Irish creatives about their craft andhow the multicultural experience of Paris hasinformed their work ...

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GODFREY DEENYFASHION EDITOR AT LARGE, LE FIGARO

“N inety per cent of life is showing up,”says Godfrey Deeny, Paris-basedfashion editor at large for one of the

biggest French national newspapers, Le Figaro.He’s certainly risen to the challenge. Deenyis an international fashion critic at the top ofhis game, and you can spot him in the frontrow of haute couture shows all over the world.With the stroke of his pen, he can make orbreak a collection and has even earned himselfslaps in the face fromMiuccia Prada andDiane von Furstenberg for what they deemedto be unflattering reviews.Notwithstanding causing a commotion with

fashion’s hoi polloi, Deeny’s CV is just a teenybit impressive. Armagh-born, he was educatedat Clongowes, Trinity College Dublin andearned a master’s in politics and economicsin The New School in New York. He thenworked with the Associated Press in Rome andlater The Wall Street Journal in Milan, coveringserious topics like economics and finance,whenWomen’s Wear Daily came knocking witha job offer as a fashion critic in Paris. Why?“I had a way of writing that was colourful,

and a lot of people could get what I was saying.That helped.” Fluent in French and Italian, hewent on to edit Vogue Hommes in the 1990sand built up an international reputation andaddress book and took up his current postin December 2012. He loves his job, sayingthat during the international fashion weeks,he finds himself “several times a day in thepresence of genius”. The networking isn’t badeither: Giorgio Armani introduced Deenyto Leonardo DiCaprio, and Karl Lagerfeldacquainted him with Blake Lively.Although it’s a world filled with glamour and

celebrity, Deeny feels that contrary to thestereotypes, people in the business are anythingbut superficial. “Fashion people are very wellinformed. Fashion is aesthetically a commenton our times.” And, despite the perceptionthat fashion is an incestuous world of insiders,he says that it’s actually quite a meritocraticsystem. “France is not chauvinistic. Thereare a lot of non-French people making ithere. The very fact that Le Figaro can hirea non-French person is remarkable.”And how does one get ahead in the

business? Deeny advises people to have agood cultural background, saying that peoplewho can “connect the dots” are alwaysin demand. Also, to have style with yourmanner. “Karl Lagerfeld talks to the cleanerthe same way he talks to Anna Wintour.Good manners cost you nothing.”

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CARLYBLACKMANFILM DIRECTOR/PHOTOGRAPHER/SINGER-SONGWRITER

C arly Blackman, formerly the singer-songwriter known as Carly Sings, isa creative all-rounder, who excels

across a variety of artistic disciplines.Originally fromWicklow and currentlybased in Paris, she has a number of excitingprojects on the go.

“Recently, I’ve been working as a filmdirector and photographer, directing musicand fashion videos, and my first featurefilm is being released in France in a fewmonths.” The film, entitledMa SacréeJeunesse, is a coming of age journey thatfollows 24 hours in the life of a Parisian girl,who is deliberating when an unexpectedvisit from a former crush throws hergloomy existence into doubt.

The film, which has the atmosphere ofcult teen movies and is an homage andparody of French NewWave cinema,was shortlisted for the prestigious JeanVigo prize for innovative cinema last year,and will be released in French-speakingcountries, the UK and Ireland this year.

In addition, Carly recently started a newelectro pop project with a young FrenchDJ called Venture Paradise. They havean EP coming out soon and are in thestudio mastering it with the record label ofWoodkid and The Shoes at the time of ourinterview. Where does this creative talentcome from, and why France?

“I grew up with a mother who was crazyabout literature and a father who waspassionate about music. Mymum specialisedin Samuel Beckett and, of course, hisentire writings and life are inspired by hisrelationship to France and how ‘outsiders’were treated in society. In fact, from whatI’ve seen, many of the main players of20th century art and literature are, in fact,Irish or of Irish heritage, who at some pointwere living and lecturing in Paris.”

So has being Irish helped propel herforward in her career in France? “I thinkIrish people have a unique way of seeingthe world. Our education and the fact thatwe are a small country, an island, meansthat we are used to being outsiders, andnot afraid to venture afar or be ambitious,like the many incredible artists, writers,and activists that came before us.”

Carly has get-up-and-go in spades,but it’s not all been smooth sailing. “Atthe beginning, I struggled enormously.But having no money and no friends ina large unsympathetic city was the bestmotivation for starting from scratch,and creating a dream existence.”

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ENDA CLEARYWHOLESALE DIRECTOR, CÉLINE

B e honest. Who hasn’t, at somepoint in their lives, lusted overCéline’s to-die-for handbags,

usually draped over the arm of anonchalant supermodel?

Enda Cleary, living in Paris since1998, is the company’s wholesaledirector, and with his team, heoversees the sales business of theirEuropean, Russian and Middle Easternclients and franchisees.

Is it all absolutely fabulous workingin that kind of business? He saysthat typical days vary considerably:“For example, Brown Thomas Dublinis a wholesale client of the Célinewomenswear collection. At thismoment, we are preparing for our Parisfashion show and sales campaign. Allthe international buyers (and press) willdescend on Paris to buy the summer2015 collection. So we are working oneverything from show seating plans tobudgets to planned new store openings.”

Cleary thrives on this broad scope,noting that “France, and in particularParis, is very multicultural. This,plus the fact that I have to travelextensively with my job, means a realnecessity of cultural understandingwhen doing business from Stockholmto Abu Dhabi. The fashion industryalready groups people from all over theworld, so it’s a constant exchange andlearning experience.”

There’s also plenty of room forinnovation. He mentions that heparticularly enjoys “the setting upof new projects or collaborations ininteresting markets. At the moment,I am working on a store opening ina new contemporary art centre inBeirut, a phenomenal place.”

Cleary cites the highlights ofhis career as having worked forinspiring designers such as ReiKawakubo, Martin Margiela orPhoebe Philo, whom he describesas “uncompromising, highly creativepeople”. And, in fact, in this world,being Irish is a definite plus.

“The French really like the Irish andoften will talk to you about a superholiday in Ireland or a deep desireto come visit. So in general, you arealready at an advantage from thebeginning! I firmly believe that we arestrong at problem solving and bringingpeople together, which in any industry,fashion included, is often necessary.”

Would he have any advice forIrish fashion fans thinking of amove to Paris? He mentions thatit’s “important to understand thecultural differences – it sometimeshelps to get the job done” and addsthat perseverance is key. “TheFrench often give a non beforea oui, so keep your eye on theball and don’t get distracted!”

DENIS CONNOLLY AND ANNE CLEARYFOUNDERS, CLEARY CONNOLLY

Internationally renowned artists with bilingualteenage twin daughters, Anne Cleary andDenis Connolly zip around Paris every morning

on their foot scooters accompanying the girls toschool – it’s at these moments they get their bestideas. But beyond this daily dose of inspiration, theyhave another secret behind their success: “The workspeaks to a lot of different cultures. It’s importantthat the public enjoys it, that there’s somethingthey can bring to it, and they’re not being passive.”

Communication with the audience is key, and issurely why their art speaks to so many. Their worktours theworld, and theirCV lists exhibitions at venuessuch as the Centre Pompidou in Paris, the Barbicanin London, and the Yokohama Triennale in Japan.

The pair studied architecture at Bolton Street inDublin and moved to Paris in 1990. Back then, “inIreland, there was no work. And Paris was appealing.”Although they started out as architects, it wasn’t long

before they realised they had a different calling. “Wekept doing some graphic work. We made video artinitially, then more short film and interactive work.”

They now have an art practice, which invites thepublic into a participative loop. Their recent workhas culminated in the creation of the extraordinary“Meta-Perceptual Helmets”, which explore thephysical way we perceive and view the world. The sixhelmets “transformvision indifferentways: proposingtohumans thehyper-stereo visionof thehammerheadshark; or the wide peripheral vision of the horse;or the backward/forward vision of the chameleon.”

They credit the Irish Arts Council as being verysupportive, and especially the Irish Cultural Centrein Paris, where they held an open studio earlier thisyear. For them, crossing cultures has been a big plus.“Irish people are prepared to take risks, and we don’texpect so much. The attitude is if it doesn’t work out,it doesn’t matter as long as you can feed your family.”

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JUDY AND CONOR LOVETTFOUNDERS, GARE ST LAZARE PLAYERS IRELAND

“Ienjoy living through a different culturebecause it constantly asks you toquestion your identity and your place, and

what your culture actually is, and how to marrythose. It keeps you on your toes. It’s humbling.You have to relate to another culture all thetime, you don’t get too comfortable,” saysJudy Lovett.

Judy and her husband Conor are theaward-winning creators of Gare St LazarePlayers Ireland, and are constantly creating,touring and producing theatre on aninternational scale. They are an Irish theatrecompany based in France with an impressiverepertoire of 17 Beckett titles, as well as asolo adaptation ofMoby Dick and new playsby Michael Harding and Will Eno. Theyhave toured to over 60 theatres in Irelandand over 100 more in over 80 cities in 25countries. Last year alone, they brought theirwork to Cork, Geneva, Ventura (California)

and Edinburgh, where Conor picked up TheStage Award for Acting Excellence 2014.

Judy says, “touring is the signature of thecompany, and has opened up the potential tosponsors and patrons and a support networkwe need to survive.” Ireland has been “hugelysupportive” to them, especially Culture Ireland,and the Irish Cultural Centre in Paris, which thecouple describe as “a wonderful flagship for theIrish arts scene here”. When the couple are nottouring, home is the town of Méricourt, not farfrom Monet’s home of Giverny, north-west ofParis. “We’re living in a Monet painting! We havethree kids and they are all going to school here,and we feel very much part of the community.”

Would they recommend France as a base forIrish artists? “Let your art lead you, but there isa wonderful network of Irish artists and peopleherewhoarehappy.Maybe it’s the typeof personwho comes here, but they engage with the localculture and stay involved in the Irish network.”

MALACHI FARRELLARTIST

“You’ve got to teach yourself,” says Malachi Farrell. Thisautodidactic approach has been successful for the esteemedFranco-Irish artist, who by blending science, art and technology

has taught himself how to “make anything out of anything”. But Farrell ismodest – he doesn’t just make “anything”. He travels the world with hiswork and is very much in demand: when wemet in his studio in Paris, hewas preparing for his live show,Collateral Fiction, at theCentre Pompidou,which he has created with his musician brother Liam, aka Doctor L. It’san extraordinary installation that brings together recycledmaterials, newobjects, sound and light. The Pompidou terms it a “contemporaryfable”, a modern day tale that can teach the spectatorsomething or make them see things in a different way.

Another project that employs this idea of thecontemporary fable is called Surround, held in the children’sgallery, also at the Pompidou, which will run until lateMarch. At this interactive exhibition-workshop, he createsa sound and visual journey for children, with ocean drums,recycled material and dancing tubes. Farrell describes it as a “circusshow where the kids control the objects and creativity – it’s all a gamefor the children to understand a bit more about the environment”.This focus on creativity runs in Farrell’s family. His father, Michael

Farrell, was one of the best-known Irish artists of his generation inthe late 1960s and ’70s. Disillusioned with Ireland and its politics,Michael moved to France in 1971, when Malachi was a baby.

Even though he has spent most of his life in France, Malachi still hasan Irish passport. “My Irish heritage has been a very interesting identityfor me. In France, I’m exotic!” he laughs. He’s gone back and forthbetween the two countries all his life, and even named his son Sligo.

Being based in France, he admits, isn’t a piece of cake. “As I’m nota commercial artist, it’s difficult.” On the positive side, though, he notesthat in France, “since the economy broke down, they’ve realised thatart must be more social. Art must be a form of communication.”

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