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2015 Cambridge Business & Economics Conference ISBN : 9780974211428 Investigation of Consumer Motives for Purchase of Cotton (Lawn) Fabric as a Fashion Statement: Case of Pakistani Female Sentiment Keywords: Brand Perception, Consumer Behavior, Cotton (Lawn) Fabric, Female Consumer Sentiment, Hedonism, Motivation, Rationale, Status Track: Consumer Behavior in Emerging Markets Author: Ms. Yasmin Zafar Assistant Professor Department of Marketing Institute of Business Administration, Karachi, Pakistan E: [email protected] Biography: Ms. Yasmin Zafar is Assistant Professor at Institute of Business Administration, Karachi. She teaches consumer behavior, brand and services marketing; She has published teaching cases and been invited to speak at international forums as a corporate professional. She has developed academic curricula at both graduate and undergraduate business programs. She has July 1-2, 2015 Cambridge, UK 1
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2015 Cambridge Business & Economics Conference ISBN : 9780974211428

Investigation of Consumer Motives for Purchase of Cotton (Lawn) Fabric as a Fashion

Statement: Case of Pakistani Female Sentiment

Keywords:

Brand Perception, Consumer Behavior, Cotton (Lawn) Fabric, Female Consumer Sentiment,

Hedonism, Motivation, Rationale, Status

Track: Consumer Behavior in Emerging Markets

Author: Ms. Yasmin Zafar

Assistant Professor

Department of Marketing

Institute of Business Administration, Karachi, Pakistan

E: [email protected]

Biography: Ms. Yasmin Zafar is Assistant Professor at Institute of Business Administration,

Karachi. She teaches consumer behavior, brand and services marketing; She has published

teaching cases and been invited to speak at international forums as a corporate professional. She

has developed academic curricula at both graduate and undergraduate business programs. She

has convened a series of International Marketing Conferences in Pakistan. Her current research

interests are in consumer behavior of female, and Gen X, millennials and working women in

Pakistan.

July 1-2, 2015Cambridge, UK 1

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2015 Cambridge Business & Economics Conference ISBN : 9780974211428

ABSTRACT

The study of consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement is of

interest for all Pakistani marketers. Fashion trend cycles in the apparel industry seem to

accelerate despite the mature stage and slow growth seen. The fashion cycle lasts on average six

to twelve weeks and the presence of more and more brands has created a competitive

environment unheard of in the past (Rutter and Edwards, 1999). This major change is because of

the expanded role of female consumers as more and more enter the labor market (Shim and

Kotsiopulos, 1993). This has resulted in higher disposable income for the female consumer;

consequently female sentiment is recognized by apparel marketers as a sought after target market

(Cassill and Drake, 1987).

This investigative study impinges upon the reasons for the high growth and mushrooming of

cotton fabric manufacturers in recent years in Pakistan. It describes female consumer motivation

variables influencing female sentiment like functionality, brand name, self-identity, reference

group, rationale, and hedonism which influences cotton fabric choice and decision making.

While prior research has investigated purchase and behavior motives, very few have done in the

context of female consumers' choice of clothing as a fashion statement. The initial research study

explored the purchase behavior of female consumers of Pakistani cotton (lawn) fabric(Zafar,

2013)1. The results indicated that the key variables included functional and emotional stimuli as

predominant motivators for purchase. There was limited generalizability of the exploratory

findings. This provided a road map for the current study whereby the findings need to be

validated by quantitative analysis. Those uncovered variables have now been operationalized in

1 ZAFAR Y. AND SALMAN F., 2013

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the current study. This paper further investigates these motives with qualitative measures and

analysis.

INTRODUCTION

The study of consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement is of

interest for all marketers because the fashion trend cycles in the Pakistani apparel industry seem

to accelerate despite the slow growth seen. The average successful clothing trend lasts only six to

twelve weeks and the presence of more and more brands has created a competitive environment

unheard of in the past2. This major change is because of the expanded role of Pakistani female

consumers as more and more enter the working force3. This has resulted in higher disposable

income for the female consumer; consequently female sentiment is recognized by apparel

marketers as a sought after target market4.

While prior research has investigated purchase and behavior motives, very few have done in the

context of female consumers' choice of clothing as a fashion statement. The initial research study

explored the purchase behavior of female consumers of Pakistani cotton (lawn) fabric. The

results indicated that the key variables included functional and emotional stimuli as predominant

motivators for purchase. This provided a road map for the current study whereby the findings

need to be validated by quantitative analysis. There was limited generalizability of the

exploratory findings. Those uncovered variables have now been operationalized in the current

study.

2RUTTER & EDWARDS, 19993 SCHIFFMAN& KANUK IN SHIM & KOTSIOPULOS, 19934CASSILL & DRAKE, 1987

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This paper further investigates consumer with an attempt to understand the consumer sentiment

of Pakistani women who purchase cotton (Lawn) fabric as a fashion statement. This descriptive

study impinges upon the reasons for the mushrooming of cotton fabric manufacturers in recent

years in Pakistan. It includes female consumer motivational variables influencing female

sentiment. These include personality, cultural value and belief systems, brand and self-

perceptions and influence of certain key reference groups on decision making,

Findings show that consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric predominantly were

its functional characteristics, namely convenience, ease of use, quality, durability, style, design,

uniqueness, and value for money. The important emotional attributes emerged included self-

identity, self-concept, buying experience rationale and hedonistic buying experience. It was

found that these females purchased the cotton fabric garments which allowed them to achieve

feelings ofuniqueness and belonging, female sentiment and as a fashion statement

LITERATURE REVIEW

Consumer motives for purchase are based on two theoretical frameworks – the optimal

distinctiveness theory and the social impact theory. According to (Brewer, 1991), the optimal

distinctiveness theory, the social identification is the strongest for social groups or categories at

that level of inclusiveness which resolves the conflict between needs for differentiation of the

self and assimilation with others. This influences the purchase behavior of cotton (lawn) fabric as

a fashion statement and influences the consumer purchase patterns of Pakistani females. Such

behavior saysLatane (1981)5, relates to a social impact as and describes it as any of the great

variety of changes in physiological states and subjective feelings, motives and emotions, which

5LATANÉ, 1981

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occur in an individual are a result of the real, implied, or imagined presence or actions of other

individuals. It was found that there was a high importance of the influence of reference groups

and a sense of belonging in the study participants.

Utilizing Brewer’s theory of optimal distinctiveness (1991, 2003) to examine the trends, it was

found that the respondent females maintained their sentiment through purchase and consumption

of cotton (lawn) fabric because it allowed them to achieve feelings of both uniqueness and

belongingness with social impact on self-identity and self-image.

Qualitative work in marketing purpose also involves discovering differentiated expressions

within particular emotional stimuli that reflect (me) analytical rigor and focused creativity (ii)

people’s actual experiences of brands and (iii) encourage qualitative learning. People do not

necessarily have rational relationships with consumption objects. This was also discovered in the

results of the current study and the findings show a significant correlation between functionality

and buying experience rationale. The reason to believe of the marketing process is almost always

a product of a post-hoc rationalization of an emotional response(Woods, 2004)6; The study

findings show that there is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience

hedonism and self-indulgence in the study participants.

The demand for status goods is inspired by social rather than by utilitarian product attributes and

raises particular difficulties for consumer researchers. Gutman (1982)Defined a means Bend

chain as one that “seeks to explain how a product or service selection facilitates the achievement

of desired end states. Such a model consists of elements that represent the major consumer

6WOODS, 2004

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processes that link values to behavior.” In essence, such models focus on three elements; product

attributes, purchase consequences and personal values. Limitations of a means Bend chain

include (me) respondents may be inarticulate and simply unable to answer questions; (ii) they

may be hostile and unwilling to respond. However, another reason is thata conspicuous

consumer can appear to be willing respondent but have the ability to build entirely convincing

yet false ladders to explain their market behavior. There is no reported evidence to show that

ladderingmethodologies are not able to identify such consumer motives and further empirical

work needs to be done in this area (Mason, 1995)7

Kinch19678argues that the subjective experience imparted by the consumption of many products

substantially contributes to the consumer’s structuring of social reality, self-concept, and

behavior. Moreover, the consumer often relies upon the social meanings inherent in products as a

guide to the performance of social roles, especially when role demands are novel. This concept is

seen in the results of the consumer motive behavior of Pakistani females when purchasing cotton

fabric (lawn)In the study findings there is a significant correlation between functionality and

both brand name and self- identity. These constructs are a function of social reality, self-concept

and behavior.

Shrauger and Schoeneman (1979)9 in their paper identify one emerging research stream, termed

the “experiential view”, which emphasizes that many consumption experiences lie beyond the

realm of purchase decisions: “fantasies, feelings, and fun” are also vital consumption phenomena

They say that a significant portion of consumption behavior is actually social behavior-and vice-

7MASON, R. 1995. 8 KINCH19679SHRAUGER AND SCHOENEMAN 1979

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versa. They say that overall, symbolic interactionism asserts at least three fundamental

postulates; (I) A consumer’s self-concept is based on perceptions of the responses of others.(ii) A

consumer’s self-concept functions to direct behavior and (iii) A consumer’s perception of the

responses of others to some degree reflect those responses.The constructs of brand name, self-

identity, reference groups and hedonic buying behavior all were reported as significantly

important to the study respondents.

Figure 1 summarizes the divergence between the traditional perspective of products as responses

and the proposition that products can serve as stimuli or causes of behavior as well.The figure

views products as responses rather than causes of behavior. The researcher argues that issues

tend to center more upon the processes that affect the ultimate purchase decision and less upon

the processes by which the consumer actually uses what he or she has bought. A product is

viewed as the material satisfaction of a need (McCarthy 1981). The focus is on the effect of

economic, psychological, and sociological variables on product choice, rather than on the effects

of products on the consumer’s experience.

Purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric, emerged as a function of functionality, brand name, self-

identity, opinion of reference groups, and hedonistic purchases. The product not only served as

stimulus; but also as a response. The product was purchased for functional utility (stimulus) and

to satisfy female sentiment; based on hedonistic emotional motives (response).

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Figure 110Proposed Bi-Directional Relationship between Products and Consumers

Products as Responses

Products as Stimuli

10SOLOMON, M. R. 1983

July 1-2, 2015Cambridge, UK 8

Self-imageNeed Arousal Need Satisfaction Product Purchase Impression ManagementProduct SymbolismRole DefinitionSelf-attributionSituational Self-imageRole Performance

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Emotions are ubiquitous throughout marketing. They influence information processing, mediate

responses to persuasive appeals, measure the effects of marketing stimuli, initiate goal setting,

enact goal-directed behaviors, and serve as ends and measures of consumer welfare. (Bagozzi et

al., 1999)11Pakistani female sentiment is predominantly driven by the need for compliance and

association with the cohort.

Within a cultural studies framework, Denzin (2001)12 discuss consumption as more than

theacquisition, use and divestment of goods and services. They say it represents a site where

power, ideology, gender, and social class circulate and shape one another. The concept of

complexity and ambivalence lies at the heart of consumer attitudes towards luxury. Complexity,

first, as attitude components are numerous and intertwined; ambivalence, second, as attitude

components may be contradictory, not only across consumers, but more interestingly within

consumers. (Dubois et al., 2001)The market for luxury goods has experienced considerable

growth over the last two decades. According to Veblen Effect(Bagwell and Bernheim, 1996)13,

the affluent classes of a given society express their economic superiority over the less well-off by

the purchase, and, above all, the show-off of these goods which serve as status symbols. Micro-

economic consumer theory suggests that these consumption patterns can be identified at the

individual consumer level in terms of “conformism” and “snobbism”.

Pakistani society is rather intertwined and dependent on word-of-mouth among close reference

groups, families and friends. Consumers are trapped within a hegemonic marketplace. The

Pakistani female from all socio-economic classes and from all walks of life consumes this

product. The product is ubiquitous and synonymous with female fashion and practice. Brand 11BAGOZZI, R. P., GOPINATH, M. & NYER, P. U. 1999.12DENZIN, N. K. 2001

13 VEBLEN 1986

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names are used as fashion statement to express wealth and status among the cohort. It is

therefore seen that the cotton (lawn) fabric industry has seen a burgeoning growth of

manufacturers and designer brands. From a mere handful in 2005 they have grown to 108 in

2010 and now there are more than 150 brands in the marketplace.

The purchase by females reflects both a conformist and snobbish attitude. Conformist, also

called “bandwagon”, behavior occurs when consumer demand for the product increases just

because other people are also purchasing it. Snobbish behavior is exactly the opposite: An

individual tends to buy less of the product if others are buying the same. These two types of

conspicuous consumer behavior correspond to the desire not to be identified with the poor, and

the desire to be identified with the rich. Such snobbish and conformist consumption motives may

give rise to the so-called “Veblen effect” but shortcomings exist concerning research on luxury

consumption. First, despite the growing body of research on this important sector, a systematic

exploration of the domain of the concept of “luxury,” as seen by the consumers is still lacking.

Kapferer (1998)14Points to a few objective attributes, such as quality and price, as primary

associations with luxury. In the Pakistani market place many manufacturers have developed

unique “snob” value brands which offer only one of a kind design; while there are others who

practice economies of scale to make the product economical and affordable to the masses.

Young shoppers are predisposed to various types of fashion influences (Comunale)15 discusses

that when it comes to branding, one of the most indecisive groups is Generation Y (born between

1985 and 2000). This group realizes that clothes offer personality and confidence; represent

social standing, and a method for expressing individuality through styling.Generation Y makes

14KAPFERER 199815 COMMUNALE 2000

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up 26% of the study respondent population. The current study resulted in a significant correlation

between functionality and buying experience hedonism and self-satisfaction.So in order for

cotton (lawn) fabric brands to attract this segment, the market must focus on branding. Hence

anundeniable imagery of cotton (lawn) fabric fashion brands has led to continuing success and

high appeal to this generation.

A study by District (2010)16attempted to distinguish evaluation outcomes of likely future

satisfaction from feelings or emotions prior to the act of purchase, and assess the impact of pre

purchase satisfaction on the purchase behavior of first time buyers. It was hypothesized that; Pre

purchase satisfaction and anticipated satisfaction are related but distinct constructs; And pre

purchase satisfaction levels were higher for potential first time buyers who buy than those who

do not buy. The results supported both propositions, and suggested that anticipated satisfaction

and pre purchase satisfaction are distinguishable constructs, and pre purchase satisfaction is a

predictor of the purchase behavior of first time buyers. Respondents of the study whether first

time or repeat buyers both supported the hypotheses that there is a significant correlation

between functionality and buying experience hedonism

When discussing consumer choice Dhar and Wertenbroch (2000)17said that the process is driven

by both utilitarian and hedonic considerations. Consumers choosing among electronic gadgets,

for example, may care about utilitarian features (e.g., features). Research suggests that these

different considerations map onto independent components of product evaluations and attitudes

and enable people to distinguish between goods according to their relative hedonic or utilitarian

nature. Hedonic goods could be defined as those whose consumption is primarily characterized

16 DISTRICT, 201017 DHAR & WERTENBROCH, 2000

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by an effective and sensory experience of aesthetic or sensual pleasure, fantasy, and fun; while

utilitarian goods are ones whose consumption is more cognitively driven, instrumental, and goal

oriented and accomplishes a functional or practical task. The study postulates that there is a

significant correlation between functionality and both buying experience rational and buying

experience hedonism.

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

To understand the consumer sentiment of Pakistani women who purchase cotton (Lawn) fabric

as a fashion statement; 257 respondents of female consumers aged 21-60 were surveyed in

Karachi, a leading metropolitan seaport in south of Pakistan. Out of a total of 325 surveys

received 68 were incomplete and could not be used. 257 data results were tested statistically

using SPSS for correlation and reliability.

Descriptive statistics, percentage and trend analysis patterns of behavior among the respondents

were measured. Statistical methods of correlation, reliability and factor analysis were used to test

the data. Cronbach’s Alpha, KMO and Bartlett’s test were used to analyze the findings of the

sample. In the construct factor analysis two items were removed from functionality namely (I)

Color, Print, & Design and (ii) Embellishment & style; three (3) items from self –identity namely

(I) conservative (ii) traditional & (iii) follower but all items were retained in brand name;

reference group, buying experience rationale and buying experience hedonism.

Relationship Constructs and Hypotheses

The results were tested for six (6) hypotheses given below:

1. Functionality:

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H0: there is no significant correlation between functionality and brand name

H1: there is a significant correlation between functionality and brand name

2. Brand name18

H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and brand name

H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality/quality (motivation) and brand

name

3. Self- identity

H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and self- identity

H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and self- identity

4. Reference group

H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and reference group

H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and reference group

5. Buying experience rationale

H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and buying experience rationale

H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience rationale

6. Buying experience hedonism

H0: There is no significant correlation between functionality and buying experience hedonism

H1: There is a significant correlation between functionality and buying experience hedonism

DISCUSSION19

18A separate construct; was made based on the exploratory study result that Brand Name is purchased due to Functionality19See Table 3 for profiles of Respondents

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All tests were significant. The null hypotheses are rejected and all alternative hypotheses are

accepted. There is a significant correlation between functionality and brand name; functionality

and self-identity, functionality and reference group, functionality and buying experience

rationale and functionality and buying experience hedonism. Correlation between purchase

behavior and brand functionality in terms of price, quality, durability, style, design and

embellishments was significant. This indicates that all constructs are indicative of consumer

motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion statement and case of Pakistani female

sentiment. The findings show that female sentiment for purchase is highly related and

significantly correlated between functionality and all constructs namely; brand name, self-

identity, reference groups, buying experience rational and buying experience hedonism. Table 1

summarizes Cronbach alpha results of factor analyses and the correlation matrix is given in

Table 2.

The demographic profile of the respondents is detailed in Table 3.The respondents had highest

representation in the single female group (58.82%), 18-25 year old segment (46.46 %) university

student cluster (50.19%) and monthly income PKR 100,000-200,000 (31.25%) categories. Color,

print and design of the branded lawn was very important for 54 percent of the respondents and

across the 18-25 age group, while embellishment and style was very important for 26 percent of

the respondents.

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Table 1: Hypotheses Significance

Summary of Results Cronbach Alpha # of Items

1 Functionality .411 5

2 Brand Name .822 11

3 Self-Identity .847 14

4 Reference Group .894 8

5 Buying Experience Rationale .876 6

6 Buying Experience Hedonism .878 8

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Table 2: Correlation Matrix

Functionality Self-Identity

Reference Group

Buying Experience

Rational

Buying Experience Hedonistic

Brand Name

Functionality

Pearson Correlation 1

Sig. (2-tailed)N 193

Self-identity

Pearson Correlation .519** 1

Sig. (2-tailed) .000

N 192 193

Reference group

Pearson Correlation .461** .687** 1

Sig. (2-tailed) .000 .000

N 193 193 194

Buying experience Rational

Pearson Correlation .477** .327** .370** 1

Sig. (2-tailed) .000 .000 .000

N 191 191 192 192

Buying Experience hedonistic

Pearson Correlation .456** .347** .393** .664** 1

Sig. (2-tailed) .000 .000 .000 .000

N 193 193 194 192 194

Brand name

Pearson Correlation 1.000** .519** .461** .477** .456** 1

Sig. (2-tailed) .000 .000 .000 .000 .000

N 193 192 193 191 193 193**. Correlation is significant at the 0.01 level (2-tailed).

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Table 3: Demographic Profile of Respondents

Marital Status Frequency PercentageSingle 150 58.82Married 105 41.18Total 255 100

Age Group Frequency Percentage18-25 118 46.4626-35 67 26.3836-45 43 16.93Above 45 26 10.24Total 254 100

Education Level Frequency PercentageIntermediate 50 19.53Graduate 138 53.91Post Graduate 68 26.56Total 256 100

Occupation Category Frequency PercentageUniversity Student 129 50.19Working Professional 70 27.24Housewife 58 22.57Total 257 100

Household Income per month

Frequency Percentage

Below 100,000 Rupees 64 26.67100,001-200,000 Rupees 75 31.25200,001-300,000 Rupees 44 18.33Above 300,000 Rupees 57 23.75Total 240 100

.

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Price of the branded lawn was very important for 28 percent of the respondents and especially

for those having income below PKR 100,000. Value of money was very important for 27.5

percent of the respondents while purchasing branded lawn while quality and durability of the

fabric was very important for 37 percent of the respondents. While 47 percent of the respondents

agreed that the durability of the fabric is important to them. 46 percent of the respondents agreed

that they are variety seekers. The professional female showed higher frequency of purchase with

a greater price-consciousness than the homemaker or even the affluent socially active housewife.

It was found that price level is very important for low income people as compared to people with

high level of income, which holds true according to general theory. Color, print and design of

branded lawn are very important for young people with age group 18-25. Similarly it was found

that color fastness of branded lawn is very important for them. Durability of the fabric of

branded lawn was alsoimportant to buy branded lawn because most of the respondentsconsider

quality of the lawn fabric while choosing branded lawn over unbranded cotton (lawn) fabric.

They are variety seekers and have a high need for uniqueness.The high NFU is relates to self-

identity and self-image. Value for money is more important for educated people who have

graduate and post graduate degrees. The professional female showed higher frequency of

purchase with a greater price-consciousness than the homemaker or the affluent socially active

housewife.

CONCLUSION

It can be concluded that consumer motives for purchase of cotton (lawn) fabric as a fashion

statement reflecting female sentiment include both functional and utilitarian rational buying

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experiences as well as emotional sentiments. The that study participants purchase lawn fabrics

predominantly due to functional characteristics including convenience, ease of use, quality,

durability, style, design, uniqueness, and value for money. The range of emotional attributes

includes motivation variables namely brand name, self-identity, reference groups, hedonistic

buying experience, and rational buying criteria.

RESEARCH LIMITATIONS

This study is based on the type of survey where respondents read and understand the questions

and select a response without researcher interference so it may have validity problem. The

respondents were all from Karachi and may not represent all income segments. Results of this

study might be biased due to self -reporting that usually happens in primary data collected

through surveys.

This study is not representative of whole population. It is biased toward educated people as 54

percent of the respondents are graduates and 27 percent are post graduates. Similarly the sample

respondents of less than PKR 100,000 income are 27 percent which is low corresponding to the

country’s population. Also the respondents are mainly from middle and higher income socio-

economic class.

IMPLICATIONS

There is an escalating market demand of cotton fabric within the burgeoning fashion industry.

Since clothes offer personality, confidence, representation of social standing, as well as a method

for expressing individuality through styling; so the need to focus on branding strategies are

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important. A large group of customers exist in Pakistan belonging to the young generation X and

these insights apply to attract this type of consumer.

The more informed consumer and the greater presence of middle class women in the workforce

have an impact on grooming styles and purchase of textiles and provide growth opportunities for

textile manufacturers, retailers and fashion designers. The growth of brands is making

competition tough. This category has grown in popularity in neighboring countries and also is

being demanded in countries inhabited by Pakistani origin females globally.

Fabric manufacturers can help facilitate feelings of belonging through consuming cotton (lawn)

fabric utilizing innovative communications and marketing strategies to better recognize and

include their clientele. This will influence growth in consumption trends and lead to targeted

insightful marketing strategies in the cotton (lawn) fabric and garment industry of Pakistan. Such

strategies should ultimately result in the strengthening, connect and a loyal bond between the

brand and the consumer.

Further areas of knowledge can include exploratory research to discover and investigate

differences among consumer motivation variables which occur because of variations in

consumer perceptions. Another area could be to explore antecedents of professional female

behavior based on lifestyle and occupational motivators of buying behavior.Also how Pakistanis

perceive personal product consumption and the role as consumer motivation and influencer of

theconsumer decision journey can be studied

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2015 Cambridge Business & Economics Conference ISBN : 9780974211428

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