I S E L U X ®

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Cleansing products, whether face washes, shampoos or bath and shower gels, that offer an elegant, rich

lather enhance consumer appeal and command a premium. But achieving this in mild, clear, natural-looking

formulations is a challenge. Until now.

The latest technological breakthrough in surfactant chemistry delivers this valuable combination of luxury and

clarity – and much more.

Introducing Iselux®

INCI name: Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (SLMI)

Innospec has revolutionized the personal care market with

Iselux® isethionate esters. These unique, mild, sulfate-

free surfactants enable the creation of crystal clear liquid

personal care products that are exceptionally luxurious

and gentle on the skin.

U N I Q U E O P T I O N , E X C I T I N G O P P O R T U N I T I E S

Features

Excellent water solubility

Dense, creamy, long-lasting lather, elegant after-feel

Ultra mild surfactant

Sulfate-, 1,4-Dioxane-, and Nitrosamine-free

Readily biodegradable, derived from natural/renewable feedstocks

Formulates like an ether sulfate, broad pH stability

Structured systems achievable

Benefits

Ideal for clear systems

Creates luxurious bath and shower experience

Ideal for sensitive skin

Safe at all usage levels

Environmentally-friendly

Easy and flexible formulating

Dramatic formulation flexibility for enhanced creativity and

exciting visual effects

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Creative chemistry: from SCI to SLMI

Iselux® has been developed using the combined technical

expertise of Innospec and Huntsman. They found that

a minor modification to the structure of sodium cocoyl

isethionate (SCI) results in a unique combination of

beneficial properties. The consequences of this small step

are, in fact, dramatic.

Delivering all the desirable features of SCI, plus good

water solubility, broad pH and hydrolytic stability, Iselux®

heralds the next generation of surfactants.

The Iselux® difference

As a primary or secondary surfactant, Iselux® produces

a dense, rich, long-lasting lather and an elegant, silky,

smooth after-feel in:

Shampoos, shower gels and body scrubs

Hand and facial cleansers plus shaving preparations

Luxury foam baths and body washes

Baby cleansing products

Beauty bars

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sodiumum la laurouroyl yl metmetmethylhylhyl is is isethethethioniononionateateatea

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Formulating made easy

When using Iselux® flakes:

Add sufficient level of chelating agent such as

Natrlquest® E30 or EDTA to water and mix. Typical usage

levels of chelating agent are 0.3% active chelating agent

for every 10% active Iselux®.

Usage levels of chelating agents can be reduced or

eliminated by using co-surfactants such as sodium

alkylamphoacetate or disodium alkylamphodiacetate.

Add Iselux®, begin heating to 50-60°C and continue to

mix until all of the Iselux® is dissolved.

When using Iselux® liquids:

Add Iselux® into the aqueous phase and mix until uniform.

Then for either form:

Add remaining materials (co-surfactants, polymers,

conditioning agents etc) and heat if required.

Allow to cool if heat has been used.

Adjust to desired pH. When using amphoteric

co-surfactants optimum clarity is reached at pH 5.0-6.0.

If desired, electrolytes such as sodium chloride can be

added to increase viscosity.

Elegant after-feel

Importantly, Iselux® technology ensures outstanding

rinseability. Cleansing product formulations wash away

easily, reducing tack on drying and leaving the skin

feeling smooth.

Skin-kind

Free from sulfates, Iselux® is gentle on the skin, providing

mild yet thorough cleansing. Compared to other common

surfactants, such as SLS or SLES, it is less likely to induce

skin irritation.

Positive processing

The secondary ester structure of Iselux® means it is more

hydrolytically stable than many common ester surfactants.

This makes it easy to formulate and cost-effective.

Iselux® offers excellent stability over a broad pH range and

can be incorporated into formulations ranging from pH

4.5-8.5. It remains stable at both high and low temperature

conditions too.

Iselux® solutions thicken easily with electrolytes such as

sodium chloride when used in combination with

co-surfactants such as cocoamidopropyl betaine and

sodium lauroamphoacetate.

Clearly luxurious

With Iselux®, it is easy to produce a dense, creamy lather

from completely clear, transparent formulations. To

achieve optimum clarity, adding a chelating agent or co-

surfactant, such as alkylamphoacetates, is recommended.

Luscious lather

Iselux® has an excellent foaming profile. The lather

produced, with its dense bubbles, is comparable to SCI

while its flash foam and foam stability is equivalent to

sodium laureth ether sulfate (SLES).

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W I N N I N G F O R M U L AT I O N S

Iselux® bath & shower gelée AC156

Sulfate-free and amide-free formula

This formulation features Iselux® LQ-CLR which provides a dense creamy lather and luxurious after-feel while the

Condicare PQ7 offers slip and contributes an improved rheology to the product.

INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) %w/w

Aqua q.s to 100

Sodium Chloride 0.50

Polyquaternium-7 Condicare PQ7 (Innospec) 1.00

Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Iselux® LQ-CLR (Innospec) 30.00

Citric Acid (50% soln) q.s. to -pH 5.5-6.0

Preservatives, Dyes, Parfum q.s

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (35% soln) Mirataine BET C-30 (Rhodia) 20.00

Preparation procedure

Dissolve sodium chloride in water.

Blend in Condicare PQ7 and mix until uniform.

Blend in Iselux® LQ-CLR and mix until uniform.

Adjust pH of system to 5.5-6.0 with 50% citric acid solution as needed.

Add compatible preservative, perfume and dyes.

With smooth agitation, slowly blend in Mirataine BET C-30, (viscosity will increase significantly with betaine addition).

Properties

Appearance : Clear viscous liquid

Viscosity* : 18,000-25,000 cps

* Brookfield DV-E @ 5rpm, 25oC, #5 spindle (RVT)

Note: Incremental additions of either sodium chloride or Mirataine BET C-30 can be used to further increase viscosity if desired.

A unique benefit of Iselux® surfactants is their ability to

form structured liquid systems.

When used in combination with selected

co-surfactants, Iselux® promotes the formation of a liquid

crystalline structure capable of suspending and delivering

active ingredients or other beneficial components such as

oils and conditioning agents.

This patent-pending technology enables formulators to

easily prepare rich, lathering personal cleansing products

that provide tangible benefits to the skin or hair.

What are structured liquids?

A structured liquid is a surfactant system in a unique physical state.

Using the phase diagram technique, optimum surfactant combinations are identified

to promote the formation of this physical state. Once in the structured state, the

resulting products have unique rheological properties capable of suspending high

levels of particulates and active ingredients otherwise incompatible in standard

surfactant-based formulations. Examples of particulates include ingredients such

as natural oils, petrolatum, silicones, emollient esters, active ingredients and

conditioning agents.

When properly formulated, structured liquid systems are extremely stable and

durable. Upon application (water dilution), these formulas rapidly transition to

a more traditional micellar physical state generating a dense, creamy lather and

releasing the particulates to deposit on the hair or skin.

While the science of identifying optimum ingredient ratios to promote the formation

of the ideal structured state is complex, the actual process to prepare the formulated

products is fairly easy and does not require any special processing equipment.

Innospec has spent considerable time identifying the optimum phase profile for

Iselux® and provides easy-to-use optimized systems. We offer support to help you

develop formulas which best fit your application and performance goals.

Why structured liquids?

Making the incompatible compatible

Using structured liquid technology, formulators can

incorporate high levels of otherwise incompatible

ingredients into their formulas for delivery via wash off

applications. The outstanding lathering properties of

Iselux® are not compromised by these ingredients.

Special effects

The unique rheology of structured liquids allows you to

create exciting visual effects such as layering different

coloured phases to form stripes, or suspending beads,

glitter or other solid particles.

Why Iselux®?

Existing technologies use sodium laureth sulfate or

sodium trideceth sulfate as the primary surfactants to

form structured liquid systems. These ingredients have

some distinct drawbacks. The table below highlights just

some of the benefits of using Iselux® versus sodium

trideceth sulfate.

S T R U C T U R E D L I Q U I D S U R F A C TA N T S Y S T E M S , S I M P LY

Sulfate-free

1,4 Dioxane-free

Ethylene oxide-free

Biodegradability

Hydrophobe source

Odor

Foam type

Mildness

Iselux®

Yes

Yes

Yes

Readily

Natural

Sweet ‘lauric’

Luxurious lather

Mild as is

Sodium trideceth sulfate

No

No

No

Inherently

Petrochemical

Strong pungent

Lacy bubbles

Mildness must be ‘created’

Sulfate-free body wash AC136b

This mild, sulfate-free cleanser features Iselux® LQ-CLR-SB and Pureact WS Conc. to produce a dense, creamy lather

upon application. The Activsoft C-17 imparts a soft, elegant feel to the skin and also helps improve the foam quality. The

Activsoft S and the Aminol® CM Flakes thicken this formulation and help stabilize the foam. The Finsolv® TN acts as a mild

solublizing agent to gently remove soils from the skin as well as to provide conditioning.

INCI ingredients Trade name (supplier) %w/w

Aqua q.s to 100

Sodium Chloride 4.00

Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride Activsoft C-17 (Innospec) 0.20

Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate Miranol C2M Conc. (Rhodia) 7.50

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate Pureact WS Conc. (Innospec) 7.50

Cyamopsis Tetragonoloba Guar Gum Activsoft S (Innospec) 0.50

Glycerin 1.00

Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate Iselux® LQ-CLR-SB (Innospec) 30.00

Cocamide MEA Aminol® CM Flakes (Innospec) 3.50

Cocamidopropyl Betaine Mirataine BET C-30 (Rhodia) 10.00

Canola Oil Rita Canola Oil (Rita) 10.00

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate Finsolv® TN (Innospec) 2.00

Preservative, Dye(s), Parfum q.s.

Citric Acid (50% aqueous solution) q.s. to pH 5.0-5.6

Preparation procedure

Dissolve sodium chloride in deionized water.

With smooth mechanical agitation, slowly blend Activsoft C-17 in water system. Mix until completely dispersed

and uniform.

Slowly blend Miranol C2M Conc. into system. Mix until uniform. Warm system to 40-45ºC with smooth

mechanical agitation.

Slowly blend Pureact WS Conc. into heated system and mix until completely dissolved.

In a separate mixing vessel, combine Activsoft S and glycerin. Mix into a soft slurry that is completely uniform. Slowly

blend this pre-mix slurry into main system and mix until uniform.

Slowly blend Iselux® LQ-CLR-SB into system. Mix until uniform.

Slowly blend Aminol® CM Flakes into system. Mix until uniform. Remove heat.

Slowly blend Mirataine BET C-30 into system. Mix until uniform.

In a separate mixing vessel, combine canola oil and Finsolv® TN. Mix until uniform and blend into main system with

smooth agitation.

Add compatible perfume, dye(s) and preservative.

Adjust pH of system to 5.0-5.6 with citric acid solution (50% aqueous.) as required. The system should thicken

noticeably with the pH adjustment. Mix for at least 30 minutes to reach final consistency.

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For inspiration, ideas or further information, please contact us.

Innospec Active Chemicals

Americas

Tel: +1 888 633 8023

Email: americas-ac@innospecinc.com

Europe, Middle East and Africa

Tel: +44 (0)151 348 5754

Email: emea-ac@innospecinc.com

Asia-Pacific

Tel: +65 6336 6286

Email: aspac-ac@innospecinc.com

www.innospecinc.com

www.iselux.com

Technology invented by

denotes that Natrlquest is a registered trade mark in the UK, the European Union

and the USA in the name of Innospec Ltd

denotes that Finsolv is a registered trade mark in the USA in the name of

Innospec Active Chemicals

denotes that Iselux is a registered trade mark in the UK in the name of

Innospec Ltd

denotes that Aminol is a registered trade mark in the USA in the name of

Innospec Active Chemicals

Printed on paper from well-managed forests and other controlled sources

The facts stated and the recommendations made are based on our own

research and/or the research of others, and are believed to be accurate.

No guarantee of their accuracy is made, however, and unless otherwise

expressly provided by law or in written contract, the materials are sold

without warranties, expressed or implied, in particular without guarantee as to

suitability for particular purpose. Innospec assumes no responsibility for injury

or damage to users or third parties. Recipient agrees to assume all risk and

liability whether used singly or in combination with other materials.

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Iselux® complements Innospec’s portfolio of mild

surfactants, emollients, conditioning agents and

biodegradable chelants.

Innospec Active Chemicals provides high quality speciality

chemicals which improve processes and finished product

formulations. We blend technical and scientific expertise

with a creative partnership approach to develop innovative

solutions to meet the specific needs of the personal

care industry.