© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document
jacketdraped collar linen
patter
n Project photo on page 42; instructions on page 89
by tina lewis
sewdaily.com page 1 of 30
Reviving the vintage, open-seam treatment called fagoting, this cropped jacket of handkerchief linen has a flattering draped collar
and cuffed long sleeves that are edged with decorative stitching. Next stop,
garden party at the Grantham’s.
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com
layoutcutting
page 2 of 30
44"/54" main2-18
Side Front (B)
Front (A)
Front (A)
Front (A)
Front (A)
Colla
r Ban
d (E
)
Side Back (C) Sleeve (F)
Sleeve (F)
Cuf
f (G
)
Cuf
f (G
)
Back (D)
fold
selvedges
selvedges
selvedges
Linen Jacket54” main
14 2 3/8 yds16-18 2 1/2 yds
Side Front (B)
Sleeve (F)
Front (A)
Front (A)
Front (A)
Colla
r Ban
d (E
)
Sleeve (F)
Front (A)
Side Back (C)
Cuf
f (G
)
Cuf
f (G
)
Back (D)
fold
selvedges
selvedges
selvedges
Linen Jacket44” main
2-6 2 3/8 yds8-10 2 1/2 yds12-16 2 5/8 yds18 2 2/3 yds
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com
cutting layout
page 3 of 30
20"/58 interfacing2-18
selvedges
selvedges
Cuf
f (G
)
Cuf
f (G
)
Side Front (B)
Side Front (B)
fold
Side Back (C)
Side Back (C)
Sleeve (F)Sleeve (F)
Back (D)
selvedges
Linen Jacket20” interfacing
2-4 2 1/2 yds6-14 2 5/8 yds
selvedges
selvedges
selvedges
Side Front (B)
Side Front (B)
Cuf
f (G
)
Cuf
f (G
)fold
Back (D)Sleeve (F)
Side Back (C) Side Back (C)
Sleeve (F)
Linen Jacket20” interfacing
16-18 3 yds
Sleeve (F)
Side B
ack (C)
Side Front (B
)
Cuff (G)
Cuff (G)
Back (D
)
fold
selvedges
Linen Jacket58” interfacing
2-10 1 yd12-18 1 1 /8 yds
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com
page 4 of 30
cutting layout
Sleeve (F)
Side B
ack (C)
Side Front (B
)
Back (D
)
fold
selvedges
Linen Jacket58” lining
2-12 1 yd14-18 1 1 /8 yds
44"/58" lining2-18
selvedges
Side Front (B
)
fold
Back (D
) Sleeve (F)
Side B
ack (C)
Linen Jacket44” lining
2-12 1 1/8 yds
selvedges
Side Front (B)
fold
Sleeve (F)
Side Back (C)
Linen Jacket44” lining
14-16 1 2/3 yds
© Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved.
Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com
patternGettinG Started Basic techniques and terms you’ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded.
Button + Buttonhole placement markS Solid lines indi-cate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement.
cuttinG lineS Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size.
place on fold Bracket This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam.
Grainline The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal.
notcheS Notches are triangle-shaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches.
dartS Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end).
pattern dotS Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pat-tern paper only, then mark on the fabric through the hole.
SlaSh markS A dashed line (some-times appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions.
pattern SymBolS + markinGSaSSemBlinG full-Size pattern printout1 | When prepar-ing to print the PDF, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be “None”) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled “Auto-Rotate and Center” is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF reader, check for similar settings).2 | To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" × 2".3 | To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page.4 | The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and fol-low the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern.
layout, markinG + cuttinG GuidelineS1 | Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 | If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 | Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut “on the fold” are placed on the fold.4 | Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 | Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted.6 | Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing.7 | Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed.8 | Cut the pieces slowly and carefully.
TesT square2" 2"
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxxX
L
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
ASYMMETRICAL FOLDS SKIRTRIGHT FRONT
cut 2 XXxx
XL
L
M
S
XS
XLLMSXS
cut on fold
page 5 of 30
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Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com
page 6 of 27
jacketdraped collar linen
LINE
N JA
CK
ET
SIDE BA
CK (C
)c
ut 2 m
ain
(cu
t 1, cu
t 1 reve
rse)
cu
t 2 linin
g (c
ut 1, c
ut 1 re
verse
)c
ut 2 in
terfa
cin
g (c
ut 1, c
ut 1 re
verse
)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut here for liningcut here for m
ain
LINEN JACKETSIDE FRONT (B)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut here for lining
cut here for main
LINE
N JA
CK
ET
center front
BAC
K (D)
cu
t 1 ma
in o
n fo
ldc
ut 1 lin
ing
on
fold
cu
t 1 inte
rfac
ing
on
fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut here for liningcut here for m
ain
LINEN JACKETCUFF (G)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)cut 2 intefacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
LINEN JACKETSLEEVE (F)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18
cut here for lining
cut here for main
LINEN JACKETFRONT (A)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
24681012141618
LIN
EN
JA
CK
ET
CO
LLA
R B
AN
D (E
)
cut 1
mai
n
cut 1
inte
rfac
ing
2,4,
6,8,
10,1
2,14
,16,
18
1a 1b 1c 1d
2a 2b 2c 2d
3a 3b 3c 3d
4a 4b 4c 4d
1e 1f
2f2e
3e
4e
3f
1e 1f
2f2e
3e 3f
4f
1a
LINEN JACKETSLEEVE (F)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
1b
LINEN JACKETCUFF (G)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)cut 2 intefacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
1c 1d
1d
1e1e
1f1f
2a
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 182b
LINEN JACKETSIDE FRONT (B)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
2c 2d
LINEN JACKETSIDE FRONT (B)
cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)
cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)
24681012141618
2d
center front
LINEN JACKETFRONT (A)
cut 4 main (cut 2, cut 2 reverse)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
2e2e
LIN
EN
JA
CK
ET
CO
LLA
R B
AN
D (E
)
cut 1
mai
n
cur
1 in
terf
acin
g
2,4,
6,8,
10,1
2,14
,16,
18
2f2f
3a
cut here for lining
cut here for main
3b
cut here for lining
cut here for maincut here for liningcut here for m
ain
3c 3d
24681012141618
3d
center front
cu
t 1 inte
rfac
ing
on
fold
3e3e
3f3f
cut here for liningcut here for m
ain
4a
LINE
N JA
CK
ET
SIDE BA
CK (C
)c
ut 2 m
ain
(cu
t 1, cu
t 1 reve
rse)
cu
t 2 linin
g (c
ut 1, c
ut 1 re
verse
)c
ut 2 in
terfa
cin
g (c
ut 1, c
ut 1 re
verse
)2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4b
cut here for liningcut here for m
ain
4c 4d
4d
LINE
N JA
CK
ET
BAC
K (D)
cu
t 1 ma
in o
n fo
ldc
ut 1 lin
ing
on
fold
cu
t 1 inte
rfac
ing
on
fold
2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18
4e
4f